After doing allllllll this crap-cleaning the throttle body, replacing spark plugs, replacing camshaft sensor, checking tps sensor, checking for vacuum leaks, and dealing with my car stalling for over a month every day (i drive over 100 miles 5 days a week!), after reading through tons of video comments & googling crap & having the dealership tell me they could do nothing for me bc my check engine light wasn’t on, “but I could bring it into them for $135.00 an hour & they could possibly diagnose the problem” HA!, the thing that finally freakin’ worked was me changing my oil & adding a little transmission fluid. Idk if the tranny fluid had anything to do with it or not, but thought I’d mention it. After all the research, I read where all of these ppl with various years of elantras, at varying mileage-under 25k all the way up over 150k (mine has 135k), were having stalling problems with no CEL…car seemed to stall at low speeds or when idling or while taking a turn or while parking…mine got to the point where it stalled while driving behind someone at 45-50mph where I periodically would have to slightly brake bc they would drop speed…but normally, not always, but normally, the car will start back up with no problem-mine got to the point where it would just try to start when I’d push the button the 1st time after it stalled-id have to push it again to stop it. Wait a couple secs and I’d try again & itd start up. I was a decent ways past time for an oil change & before I drove the d&mn thing off a cliff, i thought let’s try changing the oil. This seemed like a dumb thing to do & i honestly didn’t think it was gonna work tbh. I’m a chick--my dads a mechanic & I’ve never heard of a car stalling from not having your oil changed, so I was incredibly skeptical. I also read that low transmission fluid could make it stall. I’ve always had mechanics check my fluids when I have my oil changed but let’s be honest…do they really check it?! So I thought screw it…the way to check the elantras tranny fluid is ridiculous-so i decided it couldn’t hurt to add 1/4 of a quart, which isn’t a whole lot, to it & see if it made any difference. I would also like to take the time to complain about the genius who designed this d@mn thing…easy to do, but a pain in the a$$ to access!!! Anyway being as times are tough, me & my partner who have never touched an engine in our lives, proceeded to change the oil and oil filter & added that little bit of transmission fluid and it’s ran like a dream ever since. It’s been about 3 weeks and hasn’t stalled one time from that point. I’ve gathered from reading that if your vehicle is doing this & you change the oil & it stops, that it’s recommended that the oil be changed somewhere between 3,000-5,000 miles but the sooner the better. There’s 90 different opinions on why this happens…i honestly don’t think Hyundai knows why it happens!! So my suggestion is before you go spending 100’s of dollars on what you’re “certain” it is, especially if there’s no code, id stick with the inexpensive oil change, maybe adding some trans fluid & see if that changes anything. Also, i want to add that if you’re not a mechanic, whether female or male, if you’ve never listened to anything a stranger tells you, listen to me when I tell you to stop taking your car into mechanics who’re INSANELY overcharging you to do things that literally take 1 simple inexpensive tool & only takes 5 mins to do. Again, I’m 43, female & don’t know squat about cars…the spark plugs & wires on an Elantra (a 2017 anyway & most are very similar) take one socket & roughly 5-10 mins to replace & are on the top of your engine. The camshaft sensor I bought took me less than 4 mins to replace-it’s 2 bolts & unclipping a wire & then clipping it right back in--also located on the top of your engine. The tps sensor and O2 sensors both are easy to replace…just watch a YT vid. It sounds scary & ppl are always worried they’re going to screw something up, but trust me when I tell you that when you see how easy it is to replace this sh!t, you’re going to feel dumb having handed someone hundreds of dollars for something you could’ve done yourself in less than 5 mins. If you can plunge a toilet, you can replace this stuff!!! You just have to trust yourself bc you are smart enough to do that stuff. Hope this helps someone bc i was ready to drive my car into the lake trying To figure out what was wrong with it…good luck and if you have any questions please don’t hesitate to ask!
YES! Car maintenance is super easy!!! I had front brake issues on my elantra after taking it to pepboys. Long story short, after 2 weeks of a nightmare with them telling me its this an that, they finally written off the brakes and rotors and gave me a better quality (uber discount). That day forward, i bought all the tools i needed and now i change basically anything that needs replacement. If it aint the engine or trans neededing to be taken apart, then i can do it myself. Anyways, today my car has been stalling like crazy. Thought it was a coil since it had carbon all over it, bought 1 for $100 at autozone and issues persisted. Now im assuming its the spark plugs because the 3 coils are in perfect condition. If spark plug dont work, then its either my idle control vavlve or cam sensor. Im certain its the spark plugs because i hear this rapid ticking while slowly accelerating then boom, the car stalls on me. Car has new oil as of last week
I’m having the same exact issue, replaced a bunch of sensors and still having stalls. I’m gonna try changing the oil and transmission fluid! I’ve changed so many sensors and cleaned the throttle and it still stalls at red lights. How is you car doing? Thanks for sharing this
@rudym415 Before oil change, change all your spark plugs. If that don't work, change your coil packs. Tbh, I'm certain it's your spark plugs. What car you have and how many miles?
This would be a list of things you can do with just a ratchet and few sockets for all of your vehicles, I do this on my 2018/2017 Corolla and 2014 Hyundai Elantra and I don't have any sort of problem with RPMs or acceleration: 1) Clean the throttle body by spraying carbon cleaner to a microfiber cloth and then clean the carbon around the butterfly and replacing your engine air filter (Engine must be cold like early in the morning for to avoid burned hands when cleaning throttle body). The throttle body will build up carbon deposits faster if the engine air filter is getting clogged (dirty), excesive idling and using gas 85 (this is the worse gas in USA). 2) Throttle Body, IAC (Idle Air Control) and MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor are the responsables of crazy RPMs fluctuations including PCV Valve which push up the rpms and make the engine oil leaks. 3) Spark Plugs replacement. 4) Oil change every 5.000 miles max every 8.000 miles if you are using synthetic oil. 5) Get some fuel additive and add it when you are filling up your gas tank, this may help to reduce carbon in the combustion components. 2017 Corolla LE: 212.000 Miles 2018 Corolla LE: 76.000 Miles 2014 Hyundai Elantra: 143.000 Miles (I do deliveries and Uber driver A LOOOOOOT).
I have a 2013 LTD with 104k on it. Starting to get a little bit of flutter at idle. All filters are kept clean, oil is kept fresh. Plugs are new. Going to clean the throttle body if that doesn't do it may change the map. Never go to a car dealership . . . never.
My 2015 Accent shuts off at stop lights or when i idle position. What about the crankshaft position sensor? Or cleaning the throttle body? I have 85,000ish miles.
Some simple maintenance will most likely solve the problem take the air intake duct work off and clean the throttle plate with throttle body cleaner soak it and then wipe it out with a rag then take off the idle air control motor and clean the carbon off I have a 2012 Hyundai Elantra I do it all the time. This is a common problem in most vehicles makes and models just a little simple maintenance.
did you work on the intake manifold or did you clean the throttle body? the electronic throttle body has an adaptive mode and can send false datas to the ECM. Took it to the dealer, it takes 5 mins to reset it and i'm sure the car will run fine after. In others ways, sometime a bad VVT solenoid...
I agree, but if the vvt solenoid is the problem or dirty, the vvt can create a ticking sound because the oil is not supplying them well. This can also be a valve problem
Scan for (Inactive) codes with OBD2 scanner, if no codes are present then disconnect the battery terminals for 1 hour, reattach and see how the car runs?? Disconnect the battery, The 1st part I would replace is the most common defective part called the Crankshaft Position Sensor, If that doesn't fix the problem then remove and clean the camshaft position sensors and the VVT solenoids with a can of carburetor cleaner, they are located on top of the engine. Reinsert those parts, reconnect your battery and go for test drive around the block a couple times. Hopefully these simple maintenance tips will help you out. Don't go to the dealership...DIY!!
I was going to buy one with low miles for a third vehicle. After finding out about all the motor issues, I backed out of the deal. After I backed out, the dealer told me that the car had a replacement engine. I was not told this from the start.
I'm trying to learn all I can. I just bought me a 2013 Hyundai Elantra and every now and then if my foot is on the break or put in park while still running my car would hesitate or shut off while standing still.
I'm having a similar problem.... just it's not this bad yet? Mine indicates a traction control warning or a power steering warning after the shutdowns in idle. Did yours start irregularly too?
Finally figured it out! Reset your ECU and everything will be normal again. There's a fuse box next to your ECU by the air filter box. Open the cover in the back of the cover you'll see what fuses are responsible for your ECU. In my case 3. Pull them out and leave them out for 20 min. Then put them back in. Let me know.
Well, I'm glad I came across your video. I was about to purchase a low mileage (57,000 km) 2015 with the 1.8. Your video kinda tied it all together for me...Toyota, here I come.
Having just hit 185,000 miles on my 2013 with the same motor and everything and runs great except on occasional ticking on extremely cold starts which isn’t much of an issue now that I moved in the south. The general rule is to never exceed 2,000 RPMs until fully warm and tbh that sounds like a sensor of some sort. If it ain’t knocking or making noise their ain’t shit wrong with your motor and you need to find a local mechanic who can diagnose that properly. And also not sure if you are the first or second owner but if you’re the first it’s under warranty. All in all it sounds that the dealer is getting shitty high school mechanics to work on your car and you need another mechanic
Brandyn Thomas duh period plus should this dude be cover the factory’s warranty why are you complaining that’s clearly an relay fuse and that has nothing to do with buying a Hyundai. Honda’s are making ticking time bombs with turbos just looks at the reliability issues since the year 2016.
Definently it's not the engine problem i am mechanic this is a programming issue or some sensor need to be replaced. I have the same car & over 200k odometer in extremely high temperature weather and Uber deriving and it's fine
zpiotrus99 I changed my oil and put in a new filter and it fixed it. I don’t know why they do that, If it happens out of nowhere while driving my car will turn off then I have to put it in neutral and start it again all while rolling
Man all dealership are finding themselves in somewhere in a recession, what dealership don't exaggerate the problem worse? Many are not genuine honest when it comes to the $$$. You bring your car in for one thing and you go home with another. I'm just honest abe. Truth
Only stalls after warmed up. Runs fine above idle. The 100k warrenty is only for the original owner. As the second owner, it does not apply. Traded car in and took what I could get for it. No more foreign built cars for me. Ask me about Subaru Outbacks.
I have a 2017 Hyundai Elantra SE and man is it a fucking hassle just to look for parts. You have to order parts a the Hyundai Dealership. Anyway, I had so many issues with my car especially with the this actual problem with the rpm going down and shaking like it's about turn off. Never again am I buying a Hyundai.
@@e.l.9589 All 4 Ignition coils were dying one by one. I would replace one and it would run good and than 2 days later it starts shaking again while on red lights or parked. Once all 4 Ignition coils were replaced (with new spark plugs) it stopped. The thing is the OBD sensor doesn't pick up which ignition coil is bad until the coil absolutely goes dead when you accelerate and the engine light comes on.
@@brucito78 Thank you for the information. My mom's car is doing this, so before driving out of town I need to cover all the info that I can. I'll start with the minor details and then work my way up.👍
Welcome to the club. These engines are shit. I had to find out the hard way just like you. Most, if not all, customer complaints are about this car and its shit engine. Ive been driving this car in limp mode since the first year I bought it. I finally have it paid off next month and then I'm going to sell it and get something else. I will never ever buy another Hyundai again. Good luck to you.
Man it's sad to see all these people having issues. I got a 2013 Accent and have put 167000 miles on it. So far so good except now it's having some issues. Most likely due to age though, maybe I got lucky.
These engines are not made right, I'm at over 250k on my 2016.. I figured that this type of vehicle cannot handle any dirty oil and needs to be treated like a baby. Do do an engine flush and oil changes at 3,000 km if you encounter this problem. Also clean out your intake exhaust solenoid
I have thw same car and the oil its just disappearing every time i have to be adding oil took it to the dealer they said the oil consumption its fine but im adding a whole galon after one month of doing the oil change every time.i have a 92 honda accord and the oil its there doesnt go any where dont buy hyundays get a honda
After doing allllllll this crap-cleaning the throttle body, replacing spark plugs, replacing camshaft sensor, checking tps sensor, checking for vacuum leaks, and dealing with my car stalling for over a month every day (i drive over 100 miles 5 days a week!), after reading through tons of video comments & googling crap & having the dealership tell me they could do nothing for me bc my check engine light wasn’t on, “but I could bring it into them for $135.00 an hour & they could possibly diagnose the problem” HA!, the thing that finally freakin’ worked was me changing my oil & adding a little transmission fluid. Idk if the tranny fluid had anything to do with it or not, but thought I’d mention it. After all the research, I read where all of these ppl with various years of elantras, at varying mileage-under 25k all the way up over 150k (mine has 135k), were having stalling problems with no CEL…car seemed to stall at low speeds or when idling or while taking a turn or while parking…mine got to the point where it stalled while driving behind someone at 45-50mph where I periodically would have to slightly brake bc they would drop speed…but normally, not always, but normally, the car will start back up with no problem-mine got to the point where it would just try to start when I’d push the button the 1st time after it stalled-id have to push it again to stop it. Wait a couple secs and I’d try again & itd start up. I was a decent ways past time for an oil change & before I drove the d&mn thing off a cliff, i thought let’s try changing the oil. This seemed like a dumb thing to do & i honestly didn’t think it was gonna work tbh. I’m a chick--my dads a mechanic & I’ve never heard of a car stalling from not having your oil changed, so I was incredibly skeptical. I also read that low transmission fluid could make it stall. I’ve always had mechanics check my fluids when I have my oil changed but let’s be honest…do they really check it?! So I thought screw it…the way to check the elantras tranny fluid is ridiculous-so i decided it couldn’t hurt to add 1/4 of a quart, which isn’t a whole lot, to it & see if it made any difference. I would also like to take the time to complain about the genius who designed this d@mn thing…easy to do, but a pain in the a$$ to access!!! Anyway being as times are tough, me & my partner who have never touched an engine in our lives, proceeded to change the oil and oil filter & added that little bit of transmission fluid and it’s ran like a dream ever since. It’s been about 3 weeks and hasn’t stalled one time from that point. I’ve gathered from reading that if your vehicle is doing this & you change the oil & it stops, that it’s recommended that the oil be changed somewhere between 3,000-5,000 miles but the sooner the better. There’s 90 different opinions on why this happens…i honestly don’t think Hyundai knows why it happens!! So my suggestion is before you go spending 100’s of dollars on what you’re “certain” it is, especially if there’s no code, id stick with the inexpensive oil change, maybe adding some trans fluid & see if that changes anything. Also, i want to add that if you’re not a mechanic, whether female or male, if you’ve never listened to anything a stranger tells you, listen to me when I tell you to stop taking your car into mechanics who’re INSANELY overcharging you to do things that literally take 1 simple inexpensive tool & only takes 5 mins to do. Again, I’m 43, female & don’t know squat about cars…the spark plugs & wires on an Elantra (a 2017 anyway & most are very similar) take one socket & roughly 5-10 mins to replace & are on the top of your engine. The camshaft sensor I bought took me less than 4 mins to replace-it’s 2 bolts & unclipping a wire & then clipping it right back in--also located on the top of your engine. The tps sensor and O2 sensors both are easy to replace…just watch a YT vid. It sounds scary & ppl are always worried they’re going to screw something up, but trust me when I tell you that when you see how easy it is to replace this sh!t, you’re going to feel dumb having handed someone hundreds of dollars for something you could’ve done yourself in less than 5 mins. If you can plunge a toilet, you can replace this stuff!!! You just have to trust yourself bc you are smart enough to do that stuff. Hope this helps someone bc i was ready to drive my car into the lake trying
To figure out what was wrong with it…good luck and if you have any questions please don’t hesitate to ask!
YES! Car maintenance is super easy!!! I had front brake issues on my elantra after taking it to pepboys. Long story short, after 2 weeks of a nightmare with them telling me its this an that, they finally written off the brakes and rotors and gave me a better quality (uber discount). That day forward, i bought all the tools i needed and now i change basically anything that needs replacement. If it aint the engine or trans neededing to be taken apart, then i can do it myself. Anyways, today my car has been stalling like crazy. Thought it was a coil since it had carbon all over it, bought 1 for $100 at autozone and issues persisted. Now im assuming its the spark plugs because the 3 coils are in perfect condition. If spark plug dont work, then its either my idle control vavlve or cam sensor. Im certain its the spark plugs because i hear this rapid ticking while slowly accelerating then boom, the car stalls on me. Car has new oil as of last week
I’m having the same exact issue, replaced a bunch of sensors and still having stalls. I’m gonna try changing the oil and transmission fluid! I’ve changed so many sensors and cleaned the throttle and it still stalls at red lights. How is you car doing? Thanks for sharing this
@rudym415 Before oil change, change all your spark plugs. If that don't work, change your coil packs. Tbh, I'm certain it's your spark plugs. What car you have and how many miles?
Use oem hyundai oil filters
@@rudym415 hey rudy just an update did you ever change the transmission fluid? And how was the update with ur car when u did?
This would be a list of things you can do with just a ratchet and few sockets for all of your vehicles, I do this on my 2018/2017 Corolla and 2014 Hyundai Elantra and I don't have any sort of problem with RPMs or acceleration:
1) Clean the throttle body by spraying carbon cleaner to a microfiber cloth and then clean the carbon around the butterfly and replacing your engine air filter (Engine must be cold like early in the morning for to avoid burned hands when cleaning throttle body). The throttle body will build up carbon deposits faster if the engine air filter is getting clogged (dirty), excesive idling and using gas 85 (this is the worse gas in USA).
2) Throttle Body, IAC (Idle Air Control) and MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor are the responsables of crazy RPMs fluctuations including PCV Valve which push up the rpms and make the engine oil leaks.
3) Spark Plugs replacement.
4) Oil change every 5.000 miles max every 8.000 miles if you are using synthetic oil.
5) Get some fuel additive and add it when you are filling up your gas tank, this may help to reduce carbon in the combustion components.
2017 Corolla LE: 212.000 Miles
2018 Corolla LE: 76.000 Miles
2014 Hyundai Elantra: 143.000 Miles (I do deliveries and Uber driver A LOOOOOOT).
I have a 2013 LTD with 104k on it. Starting to get a little bit of flutter at idle. All filters are kept clean, oil is kept fresh. Plugs are new. Going to clean the throttle body if that doesn't do it may change the map. Never go to a car dealership . . . never.
let me know if it works.. i have a 2013 elantra too and not always but sometimes it stalls while in idle
I have the identical problem occurring with my 2015 right now thank you for the video
Me to
I keep the eco button on. And it stopped stalling
@@hussainkassim9781mine has it on and it keeps stalling..
Guys clean the throttle body easy and Silvestre problem
Just clean the throttle body that's the problem
My 2015 Accent shuts off at stop lights or when i idle position. What about the crankshaft position sensor? Or cleaning the throttle body? I have 85,000ish miles.
Some simple maintenance will most likely solve the problem take the air intake duct work off and clean the throttle plate with throttle body cleaner soak it and then wipe it out with a rag then take off the idle air control motor and clean the carbon off I have a 2012 Hyundai Elantra I do it all the time. This is a common problem in most vehicles makes and models just a little simple maintenance.
Think you could make a video lol
did you work on the intake manifold or did you clean the throttle body? the electronic throttle body has an adaptive mode and can send false datas to the ECM. Took it to the dealer, it takes 5 mins to reset it and i'm sure the car will run fine after. In others ways, sometime a bad VVT solenoid...
I agree, but if the vvt solenoid is the problem or dirty, the vvt can create a ticking sound because the oil is not supplying them well. This can also be a valve problem
I keep the eco button on. And it stopped stalling
Scan for (Inactive) codes with OBD2 scanner, if no codes are present then disconnect the battery terminals for 1 hour, reattach and see how the car runs?? Disconnect the battery, The 1st part I would replace is the most common defective part called the Crankshaft Position Sensor, If that doesn't fix the problem then remove and clean the camshaft position sensors and the VVT solenoids with a can of carburetor cleaner, they are located on top of the engine. Reinsert those parts, reconnect your battery and go for test drive around the block a couple times. Hopefully these simple maintenance tips will help you out. Don't go to the dealership...DIY!!
I was going to buy one with low miles for a third vehicle. After finding out about all the motor issues, I backed out of the deal. After I backed out, the dealer told me that the car had a replacement engine. I was not told this from the start.
I'm trying to learn all I can. I just bought me a 2013 Hyundai Elantra and every now and then if my foot is on the break or put in park while still running my car would hesitate or shut off while standing still.
Mine too in a 2013 i30 automatic
CHECK YOUR CRANK SHAFT SENSOR,CHECK FOR LOOSE CABLES,PLUS CLEAN YOUR THROTTLE BODY,AND CLEAN MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR
You can change the idle on the electronic gas pedal by removing the pedal and theres a set screw inside once you take the cover off
Can you show me how to find this
Can you?
I'm having a similar problem.... just it's not this bad yet? Mine indicates a traction control warning or a power steering warning after the shutdowns in idle. Did yours start irregularly too?
Finally figured it out! Reset your ECU and everything will be normal again. There's a fuse box next to your ECU by the air filter box. Open the cover in the back of the cover you'll see what fuses are responsible for your ECU. In my case 3. Pull them out and leave them out for 20 min. Then put them back in. Let me know.
Well, I'm glad I came across your video. I was about to purchase a low mileage (57,000 km) 2015 with the 1.8. Your video kinda tied it all together for me...Toyota, here I come.
Good, smart move.
Go for it man stay a way from this crap, I learned that the hard way.
Having just hit 185,000 miles on my 2013 with the same motor and everything and runs great except on occasional ticking on extremely cold starts which isn’t much of an issue now that I moved in the south. The general rule is to never exceed 2,000 RPMs until fully warm and tbh that sounds like a sensor of some sort. If it ain’t knocking or making noise their ain’t shit wrong with your motor and you need to find a local mechanic who can diagnose that properly. And also not sure if you are the first or second owner but if you’re the first it’s under warranty. All in all it sounds that the dealer is getting shitty high school mechanics to work on your car and you need another mechanic
Brandyn Thomas duh period plus should this dude be cover the factory’s warranty why are you complaining that’s clearly an relay fuse and that has nothing to do with buying a Hyundai. Honda’s are making ticking time bombs with turbos just looks at the reliability issues since the year 2016.
I have mine for six years now and I'm currently dealing with some idle issues besides that it's been running fine
It's a lifter sticking, do an engine flush and oil changes at 3000km
Definently it's not the engine problem i am mechanic this is a programming issue or some sensor need to be replaced.
I have the same car & over 200k odometer in extremely high temperature weather and Uber deriving and it's fine
my 2014 hyundai accent starts but wont stay running
Probably your crankshaft or map sensor
Dont they have a 100000 mile warranty ?
For the first owner. Learning that the hard way.
@@mariaa.5565 that sucks dude......
Yes, for the original owner! 10 years or 100,000 mi.
Man I replaced my engine even got code p0420 replaced catalytic converter and is still stalling nothing but problems at 171k
Mine 2015. It stops on me only if I slow down. But on the free way is fine
Did you figure out the issue?
I got the same problem when I’m on the expressway it runs fine but once I get off the expressway it will stall at the stop
Did you figure out the issue? I’m having the exact same problem on my 2012 Hyundai Elantra and I already changed the camshaft position sensors
Okay mine does that too, but the low oil pressure light flickers? It will stall when rolling also. Mines a 2016. Only had it a year.
Elo O Daimhin mine was doing the same thing. Took it to the dealer and they said the oil filter was causing it. Replaced it and it worked fine
I have the same problem stalls at low idle also oil pressure light flickers at low idle
Same thing for me. Problem just started today. Oil change and filter change should do the trick?
Jerry Dugan hey bud, yeah just do an oil change. It fixes it.
zpiotrus99 I changed my oil and put in a new filter and it fixed it. I don’t know why they do that, If it happens out of nowhere while driving my car will turn off then I have to put it in neutral and start it again all while rolling
Man all dealership are finding themselves in somewhere in a recession, what dealership don't exaggerate the problem worse? Many are not genuine honest when it comes to the $$$.
You bring your car in for one thing and you go home with another.
I'm just honest abe. Truth
Only stalls after warmed up. Runs fine above idle. The 100k warrenty is only for the original owner. As the second owner, it does not apply. Traded car in and took what I could get for it. No more foreign built cars for me. Ask me about Subaru Outbacks.
I had a similar problem with mine, it turned out to be the crank-shaft position sensor, did u scan it?
Dam I got 2013 with 300000 km's on it, the engine light just came on, still runs good however my driver door will not open half the time.
My 2011 Elantra does this also . I just cleaned da throttle bottle but now engine check light comes on . My car has 255 k miles on it
This is Definitely not a $4,000 problem more like a $100 problem
correct. less than $120.00 and not that hard to fix. and I'm a woman and I can change it
How
@@ilenerogers432How do you fix it? I was told I need an idle control valve, but my elantra doesn’t have one
@@rudym415clean the throttle body , it’s electrical and if it’s stuck from residue it won’t open like it should
I have a 2017 Hyundai Elantra SE and man is it a fucking hassle just to look for parts. You have to order parts a the Hyundai Dealership. Anyway, I had so many issues with my car especially with the this actual problem with the rpm going down and shaking like it's about turn off. Never again am I buying a Hyundai.
What was the cause?
@@e.l.9589 All 4 Ignition coils were dying one by one. I would replace one and it would run good and than 2 days later it starts shaking again while on red lights or parked. Once all 4 Ignition coils were replaced (with new spark plugs) it stopped. The thing is the OBD sensor doesn't pick up which ignition coil is bad until the coil absolutely goes dead when you accelerate and the engine light comes on.
@@brucito78 Thank you for the information. My mom's car is doing this, so before driving out of town I need to cover all the info that I can. I'll start with the minor details and then work my way up.👍
Welcome to the club. These engines are shit. I had to find out the hard way just like you. Most, if not all, customer complaints are about this car and its shit engine. Ive been driving this car in limp mode since the first year I bought it. I finally have it paid off next month and then I'm going to sell it and get something else. I will never ever buy another Hyundai again. Good luck to you.
why a Hyundai is a 2 - 3 year lease car. Not one to buy n expect it to last years n years n thousands of trouble free miles like a Toyota.
Man it's sad to see all these people having issues. I got a 2013 Accent and have put 167000 miles on it. So far so good except now it's having some issues. Most likely due to age though, maybe I got lucky.
crank sensor
Clean the Throttlebody
21 and she giving these problems now - everyday driver now has 124k
These engines are not made right, I'm at over 250k on my 2016.. I figured that this type of vehicle cannot handle any dirty oil and needs to be treated like a baby. Do do an engine flush and oil changes at 3,000 km if you encounter this problem. Also clean out your intake exhaust solenoid
That's a law suit right there
The dealer is stupid!
They have engine problems,happend to me 6 grand later.
change the theittle body
I have thw same car and the oil its just disappearing every time i have to be adding oil took it to the dealer they said the oil consumption its fine but im adding a whole galon after one month of doing the oil change every time.i have a 92 honda accord and the oil its there doesnt go any where dont buy hyundays get a honda
Clean throttle body
Sounds like that's the issue
Clean the throttle body
Ur plugs and electrics are jammed. I had this problem in my Camry
Sounds like complete incompetence .
Alot of ignorance here in this video, you should buy a for fusion or for focus or what ever ford
ford focus and fiestas have one of the worst transmissions ever made, stay away from the ford dual clutch transmissions
Engine block is toast