Sounds great that motor and quiet too. I remember seeing a picture of Ralph Evinrude hanging over one of those when he was CEO of Evinrude. I might have the correct high speed knob if you like I can hunt it down.Dont think you need upper crankshaft seal unless oil is apparent on the magplate. Lower seal you would be getting water in the cylinder if im not mistaken. She idles pretty darn good considering the age of that engine... I would check your carb to mag plate timing and low speed mixture first. Tighten all you carb nuts and intake, bypass covers screws tight . Just a little advice..Good Luck!
I have a knob I picked up at tomahawk a week ago. I just have to order a fillister head screw to install it. If I go any leaner I get a lean sneeze and any richer it clonks out for the idle. Letting the throttle go below the START mark on the tiller handle usually kills the motor. That’s why I was struggling to shift it because I was getting the throttle just low enough so the interlock would let me shift. I haven’t gotten a chance to check under the flywheel since getting it running, but I want to do the seal anyways because it is an O-ring seal on these.
@@tylerott9269 Sounds good youll get it those start band markings if it has one marks arent usually accurate with old motors as everything wears slightly tiller gears, rods,etc. leading to a misconception as to where everything is. Anyhoo Great motor I enjoyed seeing it run ...
Love that sound, brings back memories!
100 years from now those old engines will still be running ☺️👍
These oldies are awesome ... thanks for sharing👍
Sounds great that motor and quiet too. I remember seeing a picture of Ralph Evinrude hanging over one of those when he was CEO of Evinrude. I might have the correct high speed knob if you like I can hunt it down.Dont think you need upper crankshaft seal unless oil is apparent on the magplate. Lower seal you would be getting water in the cylinder if im not mistaken. She idles pretty darn good considering the age of that engine... I would check your carb to mag plate timing and low speed mixture first. Tighten all you carb nuts and intake, bypass covers screws tight . Just a little advice..Good Luck!
I have a knob I picked up at tomahawk a week ago. I just have to order a fillister head screw to install it. If I go any leaner I get a lean sneeze and any richer it clonks out for the idle. Letting the throttle go below the START mark on the tiller handle usually kills the motor. That’s why I was struggling to shift it because I was getting the throttle just low enough so the interlock would let me shift. I haven’t gotten a chance to check under the flywheel since getting it running, but I want to do the seal anyways because it is an O-ring seal on these.
@@tylerott9269 Sounds good youll get it those start band markings if it has one marks arent usually accurate with old motors as everything wears slightly tiller gears, rods,etc. leading to a misconception as to where everything is. Anyhoo Great motor I enjoyed seeing it run ...
best place to buy the seals you mentioned?? and do you know which carb kit you used?
love that volume knob on the high speed. ha ha
I have an original one for it, but I’m missing the screw to install it. I got the knob off some equipment that was getting scrapped at work
@@tylerott9269 Right on man. I love people using what they have on hand to make things work. Keep the videos coming. Love those old OMC'S
Where do you find the old style coil replacements ?
Just the universal OMC ignition coils for the magneto systems. You can find them at most distributors online. I think I got these from CDI electronics
Great video! Do you live in Ozaukee County? I live in saukville
I’m nearby in Washington county