I've had a fumoto valve on my STi now for 16 years. ZERO issues. They work, don't drip or leak. My STi is an 05'. I put the valve on it the first year I owned it.
That’s quite an endorsement! I just learned about these recently and being a maintenance freak I’m a little late to the party. I am looking at the Dorman part also. Thanks again for your comment!
@@greggschachterleppc2769 Just make sure you buy the fumoto brand not some knockoff or dorman brand. It's not worth a leak and or having your oil spill out.
These Fumoto Valves are amazing. Not dangerous at all. Will never go back to old-time messy oil changes. Fumoto Valves are worth every penny they cost!
Unnecessary! A point of failure more, a plug is way more secure than a valve, just to avoid the usage of a wrench and a few turns? No thanks not worth of the risk for a valve failure
@@gaquesadYour concern is understandable. I've used Fumoto valves on 4 cars and one diesel pickup truck for over 15 years. Never a failure, they're made of brass. I'd rather have that valve in place, than risk the drain bolt being cross threaded and over-torqued if, when the time comes, I have to leave it to a shop to change the oil.
I have run Fumoto valves all many different vehicles for many years. Never had an issue with the valve. All good and make your oil changes quicker and less messy. Also, never need to worry about a stripped, rounded off drain plug or stripped oil pan.
I have one on my 2013 F350 and love it . I don’t have to worry about clearance because it comes right out the back of the oil pan . It makes oil changes a lot cleaner for me .
I have installed them on all of our vehicles, years ago. The nice feature about them you can drain the oil directly into milk cartons and not have to use a separate drain pan.
@@dannyspitzer1267 Another tip use a clear plastic hose and attach that to the end of the nipple so you can drain directly into the milk carton. Just be sure you have two milk cartons because they only hold 4 quarts where a lot of vehicles have 6 or eight quart capacities.
...I don't know about milk cartons, but I drain the oil into old 5L oil jugs. makes hauling to the autoparts store for recycling much easier as they have handles and aren't made out of flimsy plastic and have a screw lid
He said it was factory procedure. You're really not going to get 300ml at that point. And even so it wouldn't really matter much. In my last gasoline vehicle about half the oil remained in the oil coolers.
this is true for most cars. but he did say "factory procedure" and he could be doing it for a good reason. some cars have variable oil pumps in them. if you drain all the oil from the car during a change you run the risk of never being able to gain oil pressure again. the fix for that is then overfilling the obsolete shit out of the motor with oil try cranking it over once drain the excessive oil from the car then crank and trying and hope you get oil pressure again. my current car is exactly like this. you must drop the oil and filter and re fill it within 10 minutes or you run the risk of the above happening. fucking stupid. all in the name of maybe saving a bee's dick worth of fuel.
You can't get all the oil when you change oil. And if you do the changes often and the engine is running well it is not necessary. If you are running a weak oxygen sensor, poorly filtering air filter, worn maf sensor, poorly operating cooling system, abusive driving or junk quality oil, a few drops of oil is the least of your worries.
add an extra (thicker) washer to raise the spring lever from the 8:00 position to the 10:00 position, possibly? I thought you were going to comment the dangers in it not allowing all of the oil to drain out of the pan and that metal bits/sediment can't make it out of the valve as the it sits 4-5 threads up into the pan. I guess that is where a harddrive magnet affixed to the bottom of the pan comes in handy.
I've had a Fumoto on my car since 2019. I did remove it once because I was curious to see if the part that threads into the oil pan was preventing any oil from draining vs the conventional way. The truth is, it does not. Barely a drop came out when it was removed.
I'm just about to change my oil on my 22 WRX. I'm using the 108SX version. I got tired of wondering where to set my drain pan. At least now, I hope I get better at that. Seems like a much easier process.
Referring to 0:51, when I am working with an oil filter installed straight up (or at a slight angle) I always take a nail and hammer and poke a hole at the bottom of the filter and let the oil drain that way. It takes a bit longer, but only one stream of oil and no mess
Pro tip for removing oil filters, especially when they're in this type of vertical orientation: Take an empty two-liter soda bottle or a similar round, relatively narrow bottle, replace the cap, and cut off the bottom. Loosen the oil filter enough to begin removing it by hand, but not enough for oil to start leaking. Then slide the bottomless bottle over the oil filter and loosen it. All the oil will go into the bottle, rather than down your arm. Be careful to secure the oil filter and bottle when the filter breaks free of the threads!
What kind of vehicle do you have that has 3 square meters of space around your oil filter. Seriously I think some manufacturers sit around and think of ways to bury their oil filters a deep up into the engine as possible
ha ha. They don't sell them here anymore but the Nissan Quest is the biggest PIA for a filter change. Yah gotta pull the right wheel off-really (sloppy drain too!). Boy, was I surprised when I went looking to do my 1st change. Who woulda thought of putting a oil filter behind a shield behind a wheel?
The original Isuzu I-Mark had the oil filter behind the transverse engine, facing the firewall, between the intake and exhaust manifolds. I literally did not see how it was possible to change it.
You can use a piece of wire bent with a small L so its 90 degrees into the oil drain hole and use that to measure how thick the pan is. If this drain plug when screwed in extends higher then the pan thickness at the plug hole, then some metal particles settled at the bottom won't run out with the oil, as the plug will block them.
I installed one of these on a 2002 Nissan Xterra I originally bought new and the oil drained so slowly on a warm engine that I removed it from the vehicle after doing one oil change. The hole through the ball valve is too small on the version I purchased probably ten years ago. I still have the vehicle and valve. I have a new 2023 Toyota Tacoma that is still needing its first oil change but if I decide to replace the drain plug I may look for different manufacturers of drain plugs first.
I drive a nail in my filter, which makes it easy to direct the flow, or at least the vast majority of oil in the filter, right into a pan. Then I use a sandwich Ziploc, to remove it, basically eliminating all mess. Also, the argument of not pre-filling a filter when it’s oriented like yours doesn’t make any sense. It takes an extra 10 seconds to put oil in the thing. I don’t understand people who don’t wanna pre-fill it regardless of what they think it does or doesn’t do.
I love the idea of these but I think the o.e. bolt with the magnet is my concern. I would like to pull that and make sure there are no chunks of metal that I should be concerned about. It is nice though and that's my concern.
I run a used oil sample to Blackstone Labs every other change. They analyze it and report a lot of information on its contents: various metals, soot, carbon, antifreeze or fuel contamination, remaining additives, etc. The lab also suggests what engine parts might be wearing down or could be heading for future failure. $30 a pop, including sample vial and prepaid mailer. I use a Purolator Boss filter that clears out debris down to something like 20 micron particulate size. We put less than 5k miles per year per oil change cycle on our 2017 Subaru H4 engine, it consumes roughly 1 ounce each change cycle, probably thru dipstick usage.
Something I should have done years ago. With or without the locking element this valve is not opening on ots own. Oil drains as fast as it does when removing the drain plug.
wow you got a Subaru with a good oil filter location. mine has the ring of fire filter in middle of y in exhaust pipe. they make the valves with a shorter nipple for better ground clearance.
Putting that nipple model on my 2017 Outback next week, through the opening in the undercarriage guard paneling. Rarely go off paved roads so I’m confident there won’t be any issues…just convenience🙂.
Ground clearance? What type of car would have a the pan sticking out low enough to touch the ground? The cars I've owned and installed Fumoto valve on all have a plate on the bottom covering the oil pan, and the valve is not even touching that cover, much less touching the ground.
I love mine. Been using on my honda for about 5 years. I like to drive around a bit to get the oil warm so it flows better. Now the guys that like to alter their factory suspension. Do not need to install these. But my oil changes are quick and easy.
Multiple vehicles now, and love 'em. The nipple and hose work great. Drains the oil directly into the plastic jugs our city uses for recycling. Our car uses a canister oil filter so there is essentially zero mess with oil changes now!
I think that's overkill. I do fill my filter because its straight up but you would never do enough oil changes not doing it to destroy or shorten the life of your engine. @@bobbymoss6160
For some reason people think oil drains faster when the oil is warm/hot. Multi-viscosity oil works the opposite of this thinking. Thinner when cold; thickens as it gets hot.
Just bought one of these for an Aussie engine (Barra 4.0l). Almost makes you wonder why this wasn't/isn't a standard fitting... No it doesn't - we all know why, right?!?
These are not dangerous at all. I have a Fumoto drain valve on my 12 year old Rav4 that I installed on the first oil change when the truck was new. Never had a problem. Made oil changes so easy that I was looking forward to it. Highly recommended.
@@alexpenaloza1628 The fumoto drain valve opening is big enough to let any metal shavings from normal wear and tear pass thru. If you have metal fragments in oil larger than the Fumoto drain opening, you should seriously have your engine checked.
I think Fumoto is fine in the southern states. I’m here in Minnesota and if my wife hit a big ice snow chunk from some plowed intersection I’d be worried about the lever moving the shut off arm up and over. I’m getting the Valvomax is lower profile would be much better in a northern state.
Still quite a bit of old oil left in the pan and filter definitely not tightened enough ! People, always change your own oil if you are physically able.
The only thing that could be "dangerous for your engine" when it comes to these valves, is buying one with an extended hose fitting when your car is low to the ground, or if the plug is exposed to something hitting it and breaking it. Either way, it is up to the buyer to be smart and order one that fits with no risk of it being hit
hahaha for sure! I think for certain applications with a lot of exposure, there might be a more stout of shorter valve made available, or have an angle built in to raise ground clearance. Thanks for the comment.
I'd be concerned that the oil pan is not draining fully. The male threads would stick in a ways and always leave a pool of oil in the pan. All the heavier sludge and metal deposits will sit in the bottom of the pan and never drain out.
If the pan is sheet metal, then it has a threaded insert that extends above the inner surface of the pan by as many threads as needed to secure the plug. The Fumoto thread length is usually shorter than that, so there isn't any more oil left in the pan than that threaded insert wouldn't leave anyway.
Well the stock drain doesn't get it all either. But it will be like 2mm higher than stock. But if you change often and take care of the engine, it doesnt matter much at all.
I have found that with any vehicle I have, Fumoto or not, if I want to get that last bit out of the oil pan, the car should be tilted. Some cars, being nose up is good,which fits with ramps and oil filter and drain plug access. But some vehicles I have, I jack from the side and get more to come out. The way to experiment is let it drain until it's dripping slowly, then try tilting the car so the side of the engine with the drain plug is on the low side, if you see a steady oil stream again, you've done it right. Some people just pour a quart of fresh oil into the motor while it's on its last drips, to flush out all the bad old oil. I can't bring myself to do that!
Could you also screw a cap(hand tight) over the threaded portion just as an additional measure against the valve getting knocked open? That way oil wouldn't just atart pouring out if it opened up.
The only threaded portion screws into the oil pan. Where the oil comes out has a ridge for a hose to be attached. You could certainly plug that, either with a cork-like thing or a short section of tube with a pinch clamp, but I just leave the hose on the nipple, the loose end held with a little retainer clip screwed to an unused threaded hole on the engine block. There are also a few different configurations that Fumoto sells, lower profile, swivel, etc.
Once you try to open them with your fingers, you realize they're not going to be opened by debris. And if you're concerned about that, Fumoto makes a plastic clip that locks over the release tab, and you can see it in the beginning of this video.
can the filter be filled with fresh oil to lessen the length of time before engine receives lubrication, as opposed to the time taken to first fill the new filter?
If the filter screws on with the hole facing up, you can fill the filter nearly completely. If it faces sideways or down, then not so much. On a 240 Volvo, you can fill the filter.
I've heard mechanics say this is a bad idea because of possible contaminants from the factory that wouldn't be filtered from the center. Rainman Ray's Repairs makes note of this and explains why he never pre-fills filters.
QUESTION: Does this require a crush washer on initial installation? I ordered one for my car and it came with no instructions. Obviously, I know how to install it. I'm assuming it does take a new crush washer?
you didnt let all old oil finish coming out till it stopped completely? I heard these valves dont completely drain out all the old oil completely like 98% only. still got 2% old oil left inside.
my customers with these valves have gone over 10 years so far. I'm not sure on the lifespan, but they are extremely durable and haven't seen one leak and made in Japan.
Wha? You put a tiny amount of dirty oil on less than 1/4 of the oil filter seal??? Very poor. You should cover the entire seal with clean ATF, not dirty oil. And you should fill the oil filter too before installing it.
I've never had a car with a magnetic drain plug from the factory. I do like magnetic drain plugs. What I use now are FilterMag, which is an array of several powerful magnets for the side of your oil filter.
For my car a 04 Lexus rx330 putting the car at a slight angle with ramps actually makes the drain hole aim down more causing more oil to come out. Good design by engineers taking into consideration Diy oil changers
Clickbait name for your video is pretty low. And btw, you should let the oil drain completely, I don't know anyone who recommends shutting off the valve while you still have a stream of oil coming out. A very slow drip OK, a stream no. And last but not least, when you lube the new filter gasket, use new clean oil, not the gritty dirty old oil.
@@subtledriver I don't really know about this matter, but if the size (thread size, diameter etc) match, I can install it without any problem right? My car manufacturer isn't in the list
it comes with a gasket, but I use a metal crush washer instead personally and you never have to replace it. it wont gunk up as long as you do oil changes at a normal reasonable interval, no real maintenance required.
My thought. Even driving over a branch/stone that could flick up and damage this protruding valve. That is my concern. If this type of thing is that much better how many car manufacturers put them on at assembly?
I've had a fumoto valve on my STi now for 16 years. ZERO issues. They work, don't drip or leak. My STi is an 05'. I put the valve on it the first year I owned it.
is it suitable for all sizes models... i have honda crv 2010?
@@aseelmalki4689 yep, go to their website and put in your vehicle information and it'll tell you which valve is compatible.
Thank you that's reassuring I just installed on my lancer. Thank you bro.
That’s quite an endorsement! I just learned about these recently and being a maintenance freak I’m a little late to the party. I am looking at the Dorman part also. Thanks again for your comment!
@@greggschachterleppc2769 Just make sure you buy the fumoto brand not some knockoff or dorman brand. It's not worth a leak and or having your oil spill out.
These Fumoto Valves are amazing. Not dangerous at all. Will never go back to old-time messy oil changes. Fumoto Valves are worth every penny they cost!
Your title "Fumoto drain valve dangerous to your engine?" seems misleading..
For realz. Lol
Gino Lee That’s why I clicked on it. Looks like it’s nice to have and not dangerous at all unless when he mentioned the ground clearance issue.
Good afternoon, Gino
Great video. You totally explained everything to detail. I will get an oil drain valve as well for my Subi. Gracias
Unnecessary! A point of failure more, a plug is way more secure than a valve, just to avoid the usage of a wrench and a few turns? No thanks not worth of the risk for a valve failure
@@gaquesadYour concern is understandable. I've used Fumoto valves on 4 cars and one diesel pickup truck for over 15 years. Never a failure, they're made of brass. I'd rather have that valve in place, than risk the drain bolt being cross threaded and over-torqued if, when the time comes, I have to leave it to a shop to change the oil.
I have run Fumoto valves all many different vehicles for many years. Never had an issue with the valve. All good and make your oil changes quicker and less messy. Also, never need to worry about a stripped, rounded off drain plug or stripped oil pan.
Is it compatible for all car?
Have one on every vehicle I have or had for the past 5 years. Absolutely a must have
Since 2005 here
Until someone just really hates you and go drain all your oil out lmao.
I will buy one for my camry 09 hybrid.
I installed Fumoto drain valve, and 6 month later found much better and safer - VAlVOMAX , made in US. I have it on all 3 cars. Check it out.
@@DoctorRickSanchez someone could do that with a normal drain plug anyways lol
I have one on my 2013 F350 and love it . I don’t have to worry about clearance because it comes right out the back of the oil pan . It makes oil changes a lot cleaner for me .
I have installed them on all of our vehicles, years ago.
The nice feature about them you can drain the oil directly
into milk cartons and not have to use a separate drain pan.
Good tip
@@dannyspitzer1267 Another tip use a clear plastic hose and attach that to the end of the nipple
so you can drain directly into the milk carton. Just be sure you have two milk cartons because
they only hold 4 quarts where a lot of vehicles have 6 or eight quart capacities.
...I don't know about milk cartons, but I drain the oil into old 5L oil jugs. makes hauling to the autoparts store for recycling much easier as they have handles and aren't made out of flimsy plastic and have a screw lid
CLICK BAIT!!....Your a genius. It worked.
why are you stopping draining when the oil is still leaking down. It is at least 300 ml are in the pan. I put drain plug back when oil rarely drips
Stanislav Sidor ...word up!
He said it was factory procedure. You're really not going to get 300ml at that point. And even so it wouldn't really matter much. In my last gasoline vehicle about half the oil remained in the oil coolers.
this is true for most cars. but he did say "factory procedure" and he could be doing it for a good reason. some cars have variable oil pumps in them. if you drain all the oil from the car during a change you run the risk of never being able to gain oil pressure again. the fix for that is then overfilling the obsolete shit out of the motor with oil try cranking it over once drain the excessive oil from the car then crank and trying and hope you get oil pressure again. my current car is exactly like this. you must drop the oil and filter and re fill it within 10 minutes or you run the risk of the above happening. fucking stupid. all in the name of maybe saving a bee's dick worth of fuel.
You can't get all the oil when you change oil. And if you do the changes often and the engine is running well it is not necessary. If you are running a weak oxygen sensor, poorly filtering air filter, worn maf sensor, poorly operating cooling system, abusive driving or junk quality oil, a few drops of oil is the least of your worries.
add an extra (thicker) washer to raise the spring lever from the 8:00 position to the 10:00 position, possibly? I thought you were going to comment the dangers in it not allowing all of the oil to drain out of the pan and that metal bits/sediment can't make it out of the valve as the it sits 4-5 threads up into the pan. I guess that is where a harddrive magnet affixed to the bottom of the pan comes in handy.
I used one of these on my beater toyotas for 5 years now and it is still working great. Japan makes good products.
Why wouldn’t you want to let it drain and get as much out as possible?
You can. But I would be surprised if he’d get another 1/8 cup out.
I've had a Fumoto on my car since 2019. I did remove it once because I was curious to see if the part that threads into the oil pan was preventing any oil from draining vs the conventional way. The truth is, it does not. Barely a drop came out when it was removed.
2024 I had never seen these devices before...appreciate the video and will look in to buying one , if they are still being sold
I'm just about to change my oil on my 22 WRX. I'm using the 108SX version. I got tired of wondering where to set my drain pan. At least now, I hope I get better at that. Seems like a much easier process.
The valve is not dangerous to your engine but that filter is.
Why, is it not a good brand or something?
@@SuspiriaX Purolator is a good brand, but he's using the cheapest Purolator filter meant for conventional oil lol.
I will only run the Tokyo Roki filters on my Subaru, unfortunately my dealer only has the blue American ones that are made by FRAM
I use the Valvomax oil drain valves. They seem more secure, and hardly changes the ground clearance. Also, veteran owned and made in America.
Referring to 0:51, when I am working with an oil filter installed straight up (or at a slight angle) I always take a nail and hammer and poke a hole at the bottom of the filter and let the oil drain that way. It takes a bit longer, but only one stream of oil and no mess
umm no.
Pro tip for removing oil filters, especially when they're in this type of vertical orientation: Take an empty two-liter soda bottle or a similar round, relatively narrow bottle, replace the cap, and cut off the bottom. Loosen the oil filter enough to begin removing it by hand, but not enough for oil to start leaking. Then slide the bottomless bottle over the oil filter and loosen it. All the oil will go into the bottle, rather than down your arm. Be careful to secure the oil filter and bottle when the filter breaks free of the threads!
It's just motor oil, wear a glove and put the drain pan underneath the filter like a man....
@@bobbymoss6160 I think being inventive is pretty manly
@@intox69 umm yes
What kind of vehicle do you have that has 3 square meters of space around your oil filter. Seriously I think some manufacturers sit around and think of ways to bury their oil filters a deep up into the engine as possible
ha ha. They don't sell them here anymore but the Nissan Quest is the biggest PIA for a filter change. Yah gotta pull the right wheel off-really (sloppy drain too!). Boy, was I surprised when I went looking to do my 1st change. Who woulda thought of putting a oil filter behind a shield behind a wheel?
The original Isuzu I-Mark had the oil filter behind the transverse engine, facing the firewall, between the intake and exhaust manifolds. I literally did not see how it was possible to change it.
This is why I love servicing Subaru
You can use a piece of wire bent with a small L so its 90 degrees into the oil drain hole and use that to measure how thick the pan is. If this drain plug when screwed in extends higher then the pan thickness at the plug hole, then some metal particles settled at the bottom won't run out with the oil, as the plug will block them.
I installed one of these on a 2002 Nissan Xterra I originally bought new and the oil drained so slowly on a warm engine that I removed it from the vehicle after doing one oil change. The hole through the ball valve is too small on the version I purchased probably ten years ago. I still have the vehicle and valve. I have a new 2023 Toyota Tacoma that is still needing its first oil change but if I decide to replace the drain plug I may look for different manufacturers of drain plugs first.
I drive a nail in my filter, which makes it easy to direct the flow, or at least the vast majority of oil in the filter, right into a pan. Then I use a sandwich Ziploc, to remove it, basically eliminating all mess.
Also, the argument of not pre-filling a filter when it’s oriented like yours doesn’t make any sense. It takes an extra 10 seconds to put oil in the thing. I don’t understand people who don’t wanna pre-fill it regardless of what they think it does or doesn’t do.
I love the idea of these but I think the o.e. bolt with the magnet is my concern. I would like to pull that and make sure there are no chunks of metal that I should be concerned about. It is nice though and that's my concern.
If you really want to do a thorough check for metallic particles, cut open your filter and inspect it.
I run a used oil sample to Blackstone Labs every other change. They analyze it and report a lot of information on its contents: various metals, soot, carbon, antifreeze or fuel contamination, remaining additives, etc. The lab also suggests what engine parts might be wearing down or could be heading for future failure. $30 a pop, including sample vial and prepaid mailer. I use a Purolator Boss filter that clears out debris down to something like 20 micron particulate size. We put less than 5k miles per year per oil change cycle on our 2017 Subaru H4 engine, it consumes roughly 1 ounce each change cycle, probably thru dipstick usage.
Something I should have done years ago. With or without the locking element this valve is not opening on ots own. Oil drains as fast as it does when removing the drain plug.
The valvomax and NoSpill seem far superior due to their low profile, and backup cover that holds the oil even if the valve malfunctions I believe.
Have one on my 2008 FJ 170,00 and my 2014 Tacoma 60,000...never a problem with them..100% satisfied
wow you got a Subaru with a good oil filter location. mine has the ring of fire filter in middle of y in exhaust pipe.
they make the valves with a shorter nipple for better ground clearance.
I noticed you had a large piece of some foam or filter catching the oil, that prevent splatter and what is it?? I'm surprised nobody commented on that
Im mad that no one has replied to you, I want to know as well 😒
@@kevincuellar5726 I added a "like" just so the universe wasn't unbalanced at 'my" time 🙄
I got 2 crosstreks. I change oil in both in 10 min. Thanks to this valve.
Putting that nipple model on my 2017 Outback next week, through the opening in the undercarriage guard paneling. Rarely go off paved roads so I’m confident there won’t be any issues…just convenience🙂.
Ground clearance? What type of car would have a the pan sticking out low enough to touch the ground? The cars I've owned and installed Fumoto valve on all have a plate on the bottom covering the oil pan, and the valve is not even touching that cover, much less touching the ground.
This was very helpful, thanks for sharing
I love mine. Been using on my honda for about 5 years. I like to drive around a bit to get the oil warm so it flows better. Now the guys that like to alter their factory suspension. Do not need to install these.
But my oil changes are quick and easy.
Multiple vehicles now, and love 'em. The nipple and hose work great. Drains the oil directly into the plastic jugs our city uses for recycling. Our car uses a canister oil filter so there is essentially zero mess with oil changes now!
Some people complain about Fumoto valves draining slowly, but if the oil is hot, like it's supposed to be, they seem fine.
Not sure why you wouldn't wait until oil stops dripping. You could wait for more time and remove more used oil.
Use new oil for the filter seal lube, not old. Also, pre-fill any filter that is vertical like that.
He must be new to this.
I think that's overkill. I do fill my filter because its straight up but you would never do enough oil changes not doing it to destroy or shorten the life of your engine. @@bobbymoss6160
For some reason people think oil drains faster when the oil is warm/hot. Multi-viscosity oil works the opposite of this thinking. Thinner when cold; thickens as it gets hot.
Just bought one of these for an Aussie engine (Barra 4.0l). Almost makes you wonder why this wasn't/isn't a standard fitting... No it doesn't - we all know why, right?!?
That plastic clip is more a dirt shield than a device to hold the lever. The lever is fine on its own.
These are not dangerous at all. I have a Fumoto drain valve on my 12 year old Rav4 that I installed on the first oil change when the truck was new. Never had a problem. Made oil changes so easy that I was looking forward to it. Highly recommended.
if there are any metal pieces do those come out of the drain as well? or does it stay there?
@@alexpenaloza1628 The fumoto drain valve opening is big enough to let any metal shavings from normal wear and tear pass thru. If you have metal fragments in oil larger than the Fumoto drain opening, you should seriously have your engine checked.
I put magnets in my oil filter since I also have the oil drain valve since oil drain plug magnet is gone.
Same here!
My advice would be to never tell a girlfriend about one of these. 😁
A sound advice.
So they don't get paranoid right?
I think Fumoto is fine in the southern states. I’m here in Minnesota and if my wife hit a big ice snow chunk from some plowed intersection I’d be worried about the lever moving the shut off arm up and over. I’m getting the Valvomax is lower profile would be much better in a northern state.
Still quite a bit of old oil left in the pan and filter definitely not tightened enough !
People, always change your own oil if you are physically able.
fumoto valves aren't as dangerous as tearolator oil filters.
Haven't had any issues with Purolator, but had many with Fram.
Maybe drain your oil THEN remove the filter and you won't make such a big fucking mess.
By the way-- you don't need that plastic clip-- that's for nervous nellies. The lever simply can't move by accident.
I agree with you but what the hell got the clip use it
@@davemartinez4143 Won't hurt. But don't fret if you lose it.
@@MsFarmerTom I will use it till I lose it. I just don't see how you can open the valve by accident
Same with wearing your seatbelt. It’s for nervous nellies. It’s not like you drive around looking to get into accidents. 🤔
If you waited for the oil to drain completely, would less, or no oil spill over the filter?
it will still spill from the filter the same amount
subaru has the easiest oil changes - fumoto is awesome
The only thing that could be "dangerous for your engine" when it comes to these valves, is buying one with an extended hose fitting when your car is low to the ground, or if the plug is exposed to something hitting it and breaking it. Either way, it is up to the buyer to be smart and order one that fits with no risk of it being hit
You had us at the edge of our seats! We appreciate the sarcasm. ;P
hahaha for sure! I think for certain applications with a lot of exposure, there might be a more stout of shorter valve made available, or have an angle built in to raise ground clearance. Thanks for the comment.
@@subtledriver that's true. There's also the SX valve that rotates away from the ground. Thanks for the informative video!
@@fumotoengineeringofamerica3186 I havent even looked into that! Thanks! I need a few for upcoming projects.
@@subtledriver DM us on Insta, and we'll set you up with one. ;)
@@fumotoengineeringofamerica3186 Only I would have trouble deciding which one I would want it for. lol
I have a 2009 Forester, how do I determine what size valve is needed for my car? Thanks.
Why not let it drain all the way out?
I'd be concerned that the oil pan is not draining fully. The male threads would stick in a ways and always leave a pool of oil in the pan. All the heavier sludge and metal deposits will sit in the bottom of the pan and never drain out.
So, the worst I've seen is 0.03% of remaining oil in the sump... Worth complaining about? If yes, then UR an idiot...
If the pan is sheet metal, then it has a threaded insert that extends above the inner surface of the pan by as many threads as needed to secure the plug. The Fumoto thread length is usually shorter than that, so there isn't any more oil left in the pan than that threaded insert wouldn't leave anyway.
Any Suby master mechanic will tell you to always use a OEM oil filter! They are designed to deliver optimal oil pressure throughout the boxer
I wonder if it allows all the oil to drain or does it stick up in the pan and prevent oil to completely drain
Well the stock drain doesn't get it all either. But it will be like 2mm higher than stock. But if you change often and take care of the engine, it doesnt matter much at all.
I have found that with any vehicle I have, Fumoto or not, if I want to get that last bit out of the oil pan, the car should be tilted. Some cars, being nose up is good,which fits with ramps and oil filter and drain plug access. But some vehicles I have, I jack from the side and get more to come out.
The way to experiment is let it drain until it's dripping slowly, then try tilting the car so the side of the engine with the drain plug is on the low side, if you see a steady oil stream again, you've done it right.
Some people just pour a quart of fresh oil into the motor while it's on its last drips, to flush out all the bad old oil. I can't bring myself to do that!
Could you also screw a cap(hand tight) over the threaded portion just as an additional measure against the valve getting knocked open? That way oil wouldn't just atart pouring out if it opened up.
The only threaded portion screws into the oil pan. Where the oil comes out has a ridge for a hose to be attached. You could certainly plug that, either with a cork-like thing or a short section of tube with a pinch clamp, but I just leave the hose on the nipple, the loose end held with a little retainer clip screwed to an unused threaded hole on the engine block. There are also a few different configurations that Fumoto sells, lower profile, swivel, etc.
Once you try to open them with your fingers, you realize they're not going to be opened by debris. And if you're concerned about that, Fumoto makes a plastic clip that locks over the release tab, and you can see it in the beginning of this video.
can the filter be filled with fresh oil to lessen the length of time before engine receives lubrication, as opposed to the time taken to first fill the new filter?
If the filter screws on with the hole facing up, you can fill the filter nearly completely. If it faces sideways or down, then not so much. On a 240 Volvo, you can fill the filter.
I've heard mechanics say this is a bad idea because of possible contaminants from the factory that wouldn't be filtered from the center. Rainman Ray's Repairs makes note of this and explains why he never pre-fills filters.
If you can figure out how to “flood mode” your vehicle, that can mitigate that concern. That’s what I do with my coyote f150
I fill my oil filter about half before i install stops dry startup
Smart idea! Thanks for the comment!
It must be so nice to have a car lift
The mess is always removing the filter. Not so much the drain plug.
There is no mess at all using the drain plug.
Well ain't that oil filter in the most convenient location possible.
QUESTION: Does this require a crush washer on initial installation? I ordered one for my car and it came with no instructions. Obviously, I know how to install it. I'm assuming it does take a new crush washer?
Comes with a soft washer of its own
@@pinkiepie1656 Thanks.
Had mines for a few years, zero issues.
He said nip nip lol
I need one on all my cars I hurt my back straining to get my stripped bolt off so now If I get this I can do oil changes again
hello sir ....is it suitable for all car models...i have honda crv 2010
It is, as long as it doe not affect your ground clearenace seriously.
Thinking about purchasing how is it holding up?
So much fluid was left undrained. If the threads go past the oil pan case then all the grit never came out.
On the Volvo 240 the threads are not high enough to make a difference.
great video, one question, how long is that valve last?
should last the life of the engine if not longer.
you didnt let all old oil finish coming out till it stopped completely? I heard these valves dont completely drain out all the old oil completely like 98% only. still got 2% old oil left inside.
@@angelbluerider9588 no oil drain plug I've seen gets all the oil out. And I've serviced over 40,000 vehicles.
my customers with these valves have gone over 10 years so far. I'm not sure on the lifespan, but they are extremely durable and haven't seen one leak and made in Japan.
@@angelbluerider9588 Should running a mix of 98% new and 2% old oil in your engine affect it, you've got bigger problems.
very instructive thx
Wha? You put a tiny amount of dirty oil on less than 1/4 of the oil filter seal??? Very poor. You should cover the entire seal with clean ATF, not dirty oil. And you should fill the oil filter too before installing it.
why would you stop draining the oil if it's still flowing. That's insane. probably had another good quarter of a quart to go. smh
I have these valves on all my vehicles and have never had a problem.
I have one that is a little over a year old and its leaking from ball valve.
Great camera angles
So cool!
A valve is just a valve, it does no harm to anything if you do thing properly.
I need to get a new safely clip for mine.
right? cool little addition
subtledriver I’ll need to contact them or rallysport to see if I can buy the safety clip
ANDRE YOUNG you don’t need the safety clip use a zip tie works great . I lost mine too that’s what I use
Oppel'sOutdoorsandMore small piece of copper wire - can be re used.
Who sells them?
You left dirty oil in your engine by not allowing it to drain completely. What's the hurry?
My only issue is it doesn't have a magnetic end so if your engine is new it would be sending all those metal shavings through the engine
My OEM plug wasn't magnetized.
@@jamienoel what manufacturer?
@@nativeoutdoors1780 Jeep Renegade.
bro if you have metal shavings in your oil you're already fucked anyways. get real
I've never had a car with a magnetic drain plug from the factory. I do like magnetic drain plugs. What I use now are FilterMag, which is an array of several powerful magnets for the side of your oil filter.
Do you use the included washer or the oem washer?
I used an aluminum crush washer
Totally agree, Title is misleading
Does it matter the angle of the car, like when its draining?will it all drain out if its on ramps or jacks?
and does this work on 2015 subaru Legacy 2.5
For my car a 04 Lexus rx330 putting the car at a slight angle with ramps actually makes the drain hole aim down more causing more oil to come out. Good design by engineers taking into consideration Diy oil changers
It drains just the same as if you removed the drain plug.
Only reason not to use it is if you're an off roader maybe .
If your vehicle is low, then use the Fumoto valve without the nipple.
Clickbait name for your video is pretty low. And btw, you should let the oil drain completely, I don't know anyone who recommends shutting off the valve while you still have a stream of oil coming out. A very slow drip OK, a stream no. And last but not least, when you lube the new filter gasket, use new clean oil, not the gritty dirty old oil.
With a screw driver, knock a hole at the mid bottom of the filter housing, let it pee normal and avoid all that mess everywhere 0:52
Once again why didn’t I think of that.
Why clean the filter housing of debris and then used old oil to lube the gasket on the new filter? 🙄
Because the gasket needs lube.
Extremely dangerous to have that nipple with a hose. You might accidentally drink the used oil 🧃
I’m my Tacoma it’s in the bottom kinda scared it might hit it with stuff on road
Without the nipple they don't protrude so much.
This valve can be use for all car?
check their website for applications specific to your application.
@@subtledriver I don't really know about this matter, but if the size (thread size, diameter etc) match, I can install it without any problem right? My car manufacturer isn't in the list
Does it still require a gasket?? If so how often do u replace that? What’s the maintenance on these Fumoto valves? Do they ever get gunked up??
it comes with a gasket, but I use a metal crush washer instead personally and you never have to replace it. it wont gunk up as long as you do oil changes at a normal reasonable interval, no real maintenance required.
Wow really?? I’m sold, going to buy one.
Had one on my Forrester for 7 years. No gunk, no issues at all. Best thing since sliced bread.
I use a copper gasket just the same as if I were using the drain plug-- but it's the last time you'll need one.
Good vid. Is it dangerous? I think you made it clear. It depends on your vehicle and how you use it. Just bear in mind ground clearances.
My thought. Even driving over a branch/stone that could flick up and damage this protruding valve. That is my concern. If this type of thing is that much better how many car manufacturers put them on at assembly?
@@johnmcdonald9569 most cars have plastic covers under the engine these days
1:50 “Clean off the surface. Make sure there’s no dirt. 1:58 uses dirty glove and used oil to lubricate filter seal. Lol
how can it dangerous to your engine?
jay.0621 It’s not. That’s just to get views. And it worked for me :)
When you hit debris on the road that could pull on the lever.... bye bye engine
@@philc.9280 any more dangerous than loosing a drain plug or whatever ? I wonder how many of these have really failed
Paul Pfingsten that’s what the safety clip is for
@@philc.9280 I have a skid play and a horizontal drain so it will never hit debris.
better you drain whole of it.....then put whole bottle of new oil.....
better your idle engine with "engine flush" first for 5nto 10 minutes....