The only thing that I seen that could be a problem with your base molding install at the base of the door hinge side looks to protrude into the door which could create a problem opening your door. I have done carpentry in the renovation industry for 45 + years and unless the camera angle was the cause, it appears that the trim would also have to be trimmed accordingly to prevent damage and full swing of the door. Yes?
@@davidhastings9740 it must be the camera angle because there's no issue there. The door can only open 90° and it would smack the tub.good 👁️ I called my client who is a close friend and asked her to look at that. Sent me a photo of it to see if it is rubbing. I should've probably be cut the face of that at the end. Thank you for the tip.
@@bradtribby5212 yes green board drywall moisture resistant drywall is a waste of money. In my opinion. Once you paint the bathroom in semi gloss paint you have moisture proof the drywall don't waste your money on green board.
How do you seal the inside corners on the backwall, tinted caulk? You showed how you could see the redgard through the gap between the panels on the far wall but nothing about sealing that up.
Yes the kit comes with tinted silicone It cover the 1/4 gap fine.I tool it with my finger to in sure 3 point contact.mineral spirits if needed to clean any excess. I raerly need the spirits but best to have it on hand just in case you get a bad tube.
So, it's okay to have a 1/4 gap in the corner? My installer left the back panel loose, not glued properly, on the end with the big bag, 1/4 or a little bigger. I'm not sure how to get the glue under the board now with all the panels up.
@@cheryl9459 you should be able to silicone the gap tooling it pushing the silicone into the void clean the surface with mineral spirits. It should not leak even if the panel is loose that should help it so it should not move.
Hi and thanks for the video! I am doing a very similar install in my tiny home and just when I was getting ready to put up the flexstone panels, I realized that RedGard's manufacturer says that adhesives will not adhere to RedGard. Did you have any problems with the adhesive and panels not sticking to the RedGard?
The back panel was cut within an eighth of an inch only leave an eighth of an inch gap so that the smaller end panel would cover the gap along with the beat of caulk in your corners should be waterproofed. I guess you could slip the end panel and if needed to fill the gap
Yes make sure you clean the surface. Well, maybe even take belt sander. If it's glossy tile take a belt sander knock the glaze off the tile to get the adhesive to make a better bond.
Recently the leaks came out the gap between tiles and cement broad around the conner of the baseboard next to the shower tub. Have been looking for almost a month and still can’t located an entry point from the leak. Temporarily placed the shower curtain around the wall to prevent the leaks. Opened the dry wall behind the shower, all pipes seem ok without seeing any leaks, but the stud towards to the cement broad got moisture. Thinking Instead of knock off the entire tiles and walls to redo the shower, I was thinking to directly apply shower walls to the tiles but not sure if it will address the issue for a long run. Unfortunately I am in NJ and hard to find a trust contractor to do the work.
@@Shirley5555 It does not sound like something you want to cover up. If you could make a video of what you're talking about and send that to me I could probably help you out with some good advice.
@Shirley5555 It's really hard to say it sounds like water is either getting under the bathtub lip and I have seen people accidentally buy a deck, tub and tile a deck tub tub which should not be done in the tub should have a lip on it. The cement board might not have been properly installed. Who did the tile work originally?
This was done 11years ago, it had a glass door installed above the tub. I checked the behind the wall and around the tub, did not see the water but the stud towards to the cement broad behind the leak aera got wet. How can I email video to you, Mark?
They were covered funny how after it dried you can’t see it but it’s there. if you’re talking about the higher areas where the drywall was not waterproofed those are areas where water will never reach that type of height in the shower. No need to do the drywall or the screws.
Why is these companies out here charging $10-25k to install this glued on plastic, i got a quote for $12,200. They try to give u an hour presentation to try to justify the cost which could NEVER be explained to me. A 1 day job costing 12k could never be justifiable to install plastic
@@thelog86 inflation I worked with several companies selling them at the time the cost for them were $5000 for a basic white no-frills to. I’ve sold one myself for $11,000 which had all the bells and whistles so they really shot up in price if they are getting that kind of. Cash 💰
This was just this past thursday mid tier without glass doors. I priced this exact product flexstone at lowes this weekend cost $1400 these companies are just out here gouging people.
@@Worldwidegiantgrowers Absolutely! The commenter may not realize that most glue-up AND direct-to-stud panels/kits are 1/8", if that. Some glue-ups are nearly paper thin. 1/4" is a vast improvement. Very nice job, Sir. I'm hoping to do this over my 70-year-old cast iron tub!
@ yes once it's laminated to half inch material it is as strong as can be so I don't know what their perspective is, but we all have different perspectives in this world today
@amylamb1527 commented that the adhesive is not compatible with the red guard waterproofing but I have not had an issue. Shower was installed over a year ago and it still stuck on the wall rock solid. However, the red guard did get 24 hours to dry.
love the video. I was on the fence about this product. I think you convinced me.
Installing another one today
GREAT VIDEO!! THANK U SO MUCH, THIS HELPED ME ALOT!
You’re welcome thank you for leaving a comment
Great job
🙏
Thanks Mark 👍👍🎃
Thank you Greg for watching
The only thing that I seen that could be a problem with your base molding install at the base of the door hinge side looks to protrude into the door which could create a problem opening your door. I have done carpentry in the renovation industry for 45 + years and unless the camera angle was the cause, it appears that the trim would also have to be trimmed accordingly to prevent damage and full swing of the door. Yes?
@@davidhastings9740 it must be the camera angle because there's no issue there. The door can only open 90° and it would smack the tub.good 👁️ I called my client who is a close friend and asked her to look at that. Sent me a photo of it to see if it is rubbing. I should've probably be cut the face of that at the end. Thank you for the tip.
To clarify, you just used regular drywall and then waterproofed it?
Yes exactly
@@bradtribby5212 yes green board drywall moisture resistant drywall is a waste of money. In my opinion. Once you paint the bathroom in semi gloss paint you have moisture proof the drywall don't waste your money on green board.
How do you seal the inside corners on the backwall, tinted caulk? You showed how you could see the redgard through the gap between the panels on the far wall but nothing about sealing that up.
Yes the kit comes with tinted silicone It cover the 1/4 gap fine.I tool it with my finger to in sure 3 point contact.mineral spirits if needed to clean any excess. I raerly need the spirits but best to have it on hand just in case you get a bad tube.
So, it's okay to have a 1/4 gap in the corner? My installer left the back panel loose, not glued properly, on the end with the big bag, 1/4 or a little bigger. I'm not sure how to get the glue under the board now with all the panels up.
Big gap, not big bag. 😅
@cheryl9459 text me a picture of that 248-818-0104. I can help you fix that.
@@cheryl9459 you should be able to silicone the gap tooling it pushing the silicone into the void clean the surface with mineral spirits. It should not leak even if the panel is loose that should help it so it should not move.
Hi and thanks for the video! I am doing a very similar install in my tiny home and just when I was getting ready to put up the flexstone panels, I realized that RedGard's manufacturer says that adhesives will not adhere to RedGard. Did you have any problems with the adhesive and panels not sticking to the RedGard?
@@amylamb1527 let's go back and see I buy my eggs from this lady, so I see her quite often th-cam.com/video/_N3yb5dwbzY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=s6t7IEick69OW3Dy
did you cut the back piece short enough to slide the side pieces behind it or cut it true and butt the side pieces up to the back?
The back panel was cut within an eighth of an inch only leave an eighth of an inch gap so that the smaller end panel would cover the gap along with the beat of caulk in your corners should be waterproofed. I guess you could slip the end panel and if needed to fill the gap
Is it holding up good still? Priced a tile shower and QUICKLY decided i was going this route. Ha ha
@ yes as long as you don't have terrible water, but terrible water will stain any surface
@ ceramic tile showers probably start at $5000 and go up
@gdbunn yes holding up well
So you left the existing tub behind by cutting it to the size of the bottom of the panels?
I'm not sure if I understand your question can you rephrase it?
Hello Mark, thanks for sharing the video! Can this Flexstone be installed directly on the trop of tiles?
Yes make sure you clean the surface. Well, maybe even take belt sander. If it's glossy tile take a belt sander knock the glaze off the tile to get the adhesive to make a better bond.
Recently the leaks came out the gap between tiles and cement broad around the conner of the baseboard next to the shower tub. Have been looking for almost a month and still can’t located an entry point from the leak. Temporarily placed the shower curtain around the wall to prevent the leaks. Opened the dry wall behind the shower, all pipes seem ok without seeing any leaks, but the stud towards to the cement broad got moisture. Thinking Instead of knock off the entire tiles and walls to redo the shower, I was thinking to directly apply shower walls to the tiles but not sure if it will address the issue for a long run. Unfortunately I am in NJ and hard to find a trust contractor to do the work.
@@Shirley5555 It does not sound like something you want to cover up. If you could make a video of what you're talking about and send that to me I could probably help you out with some good advice.
@Shirley5555 It's really hard to say it sounds like water is either getting under the bathtub lip and I have seen people accidentally buy a deck, tub and tile a deck tub tub which should not be done in the tub should have a lip on it. The cement board might not have been properly installed. Who did the tile work originally?
This was done 11years ago, it had a glass door installed above the tub. I checked the behind the wall and around the tub, did not see the water but the stud towards to the cement broad behind the leak aera got wet. How can I email video to you, Mark?
Why weren’t screw heads covered with water proofing?
They were covered funny how after it dried you can’t see it but it’s there. if you’re talking about the higher areas where the drywall was not waterproofed those are areas where water will never reach that type of height in the shower. No need to do the drywall or the screws.
Why is these companies out here charging $10-25k to install this glued on plastic, i got a quote for $12,200. They try to give u an hour presentation to try to justify the cost which could NEVER be explained to me. A 1 day job costing 12k could never be justifiable to install plastic
@@thelog86 inflation I worked with several companies selling them at the time the cost for them were $5000 for a basic white no-frills to. I’ve sold one myself for $11,000 which had all the bells and whistles so they really shot up in price if they are getting that kind of. Cash 💰
This was just this past thursday mid tier without glass doors. I priced this exact product flexstone at lowes this weekend cost $1400 these companies are just out here gouging people.
Its all labor cost. The job was was tub/shower to walkin shower conversion. Just for the demo portion they wanted $1400
1/4 inch pretty strong? Are you kidding?
@@daffyduck8244 it's actually pretty strong stuff and then when it's adhered to a wall, it will certainly do the job
@@Worldwidegiantgrowers Absolutely! The commenter may not realize that most glue-up AND direct-to-stud panels/kits are 1/8", if that. Some glue-ups are nearly paper thin. 1/4" is a vast improvement. Very nice job, Sir. I'm hoping to do this over my 70-year-old cast iron tub!
@ yes once it's laminated to half inch material it is as strong as can be so I don't know what their perspective is, but we all have different perspectives in this world today
@amylamb1527 commented that the adhesive is not compatible with the red guard waterproofing but I have not had an issue. Shower was installed over a year ago and it still stuck on the wall rock solid. However, the red guard did get 24 hours to dry.