Kenmore Elite Oasis HE Rotor Position Sensor replacement F51 and LF Error Codes
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 พ.ย. 2012
- Kenmore Elite Oasis H.E. F51 Error Code Repair/Fix. These machines get a lot of bad rep... These new computerized machines could be better engineered and manufactured -for the most part they are great. I think the parts could be made to a higher standard however, a lot of cheap assembly and engineering goes on in the world. But if something goes wrong it will be very easy to diagnose and fix. These machines have a diagnostic mode which will give you a code and you can simply replace the part. F51 Error Code means the RPS (rotor position sensor) has failed. Replacing this sensor is very simple and straight forward. Simply dismantle the Stator Motor on the bottom of the machine and unplug it, plug the new RPS into the Stator Motor and you are ready to rock.
If you get the LF error code make sure your drain hose is above the machine and has a U shaped hose or bracket in it before it goes into the drain.
I have to thank these two guys for making this quick fix situation possible. With a little effort I have 2 working Washing machines. Thanks. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
The first thing my repair man did after he witnessed the ul problem was unplug the machine for a couple of minutes. Then, it magically worked! He said over half the time by unplugging it, this resets the board on it and fixes the problem. So, before you spend hundreds of dollars, try this simple technique FIRST!
Thanks for your time and help.
Thanks for the tip!
thanks for the video!
Good video! Did you ever fix the second machine?
Thanks for the video. The new RPS sensor does not fit with the original sensor (bought machine in 2007). So my question is do I now have to get the wiring harness kit and of so how difficult is it to replace? Could you make a video on that? This video on the sensor was great but I was SO frustrated that it was advertised as a completely compatible part and they changed the plug as you pointed out in your video.
I'm always doing diy stuff lol I'm doing a a4 quattro clutch in a week or so!
Thanks for showing but most people are not talented like you in fixing their broken washers.
I hated this machine since day 5. I have to re start my washer 5-6 times before it finally works.
My next one will be an Maytag with an agitator and LOTS of water. :)
Yeah i fear no challenge and take a lot of pride in working through troubles. I can understand the frustration, I know that towels is the best setting because it agitates the most and fills the most water. It's a new concept to washing and it's not going to work for large items and the cleaning isn't the best. My recommendation is to buy a real washer, not a high efficiency. To be honest none of the high efficiency washers will do well. A good old standard style agitator and water level will be the best day to day method for cleaning your clothes. I still like mine, I'm going to use it until it fails. I don't like the build quality of this machine but it's working for me.
grote muis s
Thanks for sharing the information on the LF problem. I'm currently tackling a Lid Error and LF error. It's getting to the point where we need to replace this thing, but my wife absolutely would not budge on purchasing a replacement. Our machine always stalls at the 17 min mark, errors out the LF code, and requires a manual start to get it running again. I'll test it out by lifting the drain hose higher than the machine a few minutes before the 17 min mark to see if this will work. Can you tell me where I can purchase that U-Shape bracket? Thanks much!!
Tilt your washer to the side and on the inside of the side panel there's a tech repair guide that gives ALL the codes and how to repair them!!
Thanks William M. I'll be sure to check it out. Now for some strange reason, we discovered that if we run the loads on the "Bulky Bedding" setting, it no longer errors with the "LF" code at the 17 min. mark nor do we get "Lid Error" codes.
The LF code is a LONG FILL time error, LF flashes when the water level does not change for a period of time (hence the 17 minutes mark),
This fault may be caused by SEVERAL different conditions:
1.- the water faucets are not totally open. 2.- the little filter screens in the water hose connectors are clogged with scale or debris. 3.- the water pressure is way too low. 4.- there are bends or kinks in the water hoses feeding the washer creating a low water flow condition. 5.- one of the electric solenoid valves (hot OR cold) that fill the washer are bad; ie: the cold water valve is bad or clogged and your cycle calls for cold water "only" (not warm; or hot). 6- the water level sensor is : A.- Defective or B.- Out of calibration, level sensor will prevent the computer from "reading the -correct- water level" (can be recalibrated from the user panel). 7.- Rusted or corroded connectors in any of the water valves or water level sensor wiring. 8.- the drain water hose is stuck way too low in the drain and is siphoning the water as it fills the tub and it will never get filled (it happened to me in a different washer). Get the "Tec Sheet" that is usually in a plastic bag pocket somewhere inside the washer cabinet with a truck load of information, diagnostic and calibration procedures, and electric schematics, DO NOT FORGET TO RETURN IT TO THE SAME PLACE, so next time you need it, you will find it there.
you just got subsriber
I got this same washer (in grey) off craigslist almost a year ago now and it just wont turn on. we had some guys come out to look at it and they said it was the control board and that it would be $400 for them to fix it. well i was able to find a control board online for $100 and easily put the new one in myself, but it still isn't turning on! i am not even able to get a diagnostic on it. any ideas?
I buy my standard base led bulbs at the dollar store and they work good.
I used the second machine as a RPS donor, All it needs is an rps but I don't really need a second washing machine lol So if I come accross a cheap rps I might sell it or use it...
Simply trace the wires back to the control board up top. I think it's only 3 wires at the RPS.
Hi, do you know how to replace tub displacement sensor in Whirlpools/Maytag washing machines?
I'm sorry I don't have any personal experience with that. This washer does not have a displacement sensor. it has a rotor position sensor which watches the stator motor.
watching your video on Elite Oasis error code f51, are you around Lake Minnetonka?
Mine its starting to show the f1 code some times only one time when i start the washer. So im just out of commend cuse whats ganna happend next?!!
Mine was flashing F51. I removed inner wash drum, found several pieces of clothes. Removed clothes and replaced drum. Started running just fine again.
Did you replace the wiring assembly too, or just the RPS?
bethlocd I used the sensor and the harness off the doner machine, the plug to the top side control panel is the same even thought the connections to the new and old sensors are different.
Thank you
We had the LF code also....not all the time, wasn't making sense, I got with sears and the said it should be low water pressure. So I checked my pressure under several conditions, and end up finding that my water softener filter was plugged!...not bad, but enough to trigger the LF code....
Marty Roshak I think that sometimes the valves can get calcium and sedimentation embedded in them which can restrict their use. I think that also may cause that error. but one thing is certainly clear. The entire design of these machines is a fraudulent mess. The poor quality and the amount of problems that a user will experience throughout the lifetime of this unit is hilarious. Out of all the things I've worked on and all of the things I've repaired and all of the situations I've experienced this is one of the worst. this is a completely unacceptable design and has no place in our homes or on the shelves of the store. I am severely impacted by Ken kenmore's decision to sell this. I have no respect for that company anymore. we all have to live by a certain standard and if I don't do my best work I'm not doing my part in life. if Kenmore is selling scrap metal washing machines they're not doing their part either. Individually and organizations we all must produce our best efforts in this world. So, I hope your machine it's better than all the rest.
Skid a mechanical washing machine that does not associate itself in anyway as a high efficiency machine. normal top load washing machine...
List of error codes
F68
F83
F51
Not enough water anyway.... wobbly barrell, loose sensors, I'm done with this machine. Had it 9 years and it broke 7 times.
Help me out here. I do the dino on the washer and it reads F51 but when I hit start the drum starts spinning . Is that right ?
It sounds like the same problem I show you in the video. Check the Rotor Position Sensor. It is easy to locate on top of the motor. Check it.
Puedes t
Puedes doblarlo en español
my problem my machine gets down to 19 mins and during the spin/rinse cycle the machine gets all violent and then I get a UL code and eventually the machine drains and my clothes are still wet. The machine was bought new in 2007. Suggestions?
V Erokaht are you saying that the machine has an unbalanced load and it is not balancing on its own? sometimes it does get out of balance that's just the way it is, it's a terrible design.
Yes, but to do it all the time?
The machine is a POS, can't believe I paid a little over $1k for it back in May 2006. 6 months into owning it, Sears had to come out and replace the cpu board on their dime.
I removed the bolt but I can't remove the agitator
to get to the four bolts underneath it's stuck on the plate any suggestions to remove this?
Too long ago to remember, there is a cap on top of the agitator that pops off with a bolt underneath. Try prying from underneath? Or remove the motor on bottom and pound out the shaft. This washing machine is the most epic piece of garbage I ever had... I would not waste a second on it. You can get a nice lg front load set for not too much.
nice and detailed video - wish I could give you 10 LIKES for the one I am permitted...
So you replaces the gray circuit board box that sits to the right of the blue valves? If that went bad you probably have a fried button cluster too. Those are the only 2 things that could go wrong on these machines. That grey box is the brains of the operation and the display board is the only other thing.
What is F1
the washers are a horrible design, to try and compensate for the bad design the manufacturer put out guidelines on how to load the tub and which garment to wash together but it doesn't help much. the biggest problem is they removed the center agitator, and the tub is too free floating. Without that agitator the cloths tend to roll up in a ball then when it starts to spin the ball of cloths roll to one side causing a uL error. I did a ghetto mod on mine to kind of get around the problem. first with spray adhesive I glued a 8"x2" piece of 2" thick high density foam rubber on all 4 sides of the inside of the cabinet right where the tub was the widest so it held the tub in place more securely, then with a straight piece of metal lust long enough to go across the center of the tub and an 8" level I made sure the tub itself was leveled instead of leveling the washer cabinet. between those 2 things it cut my uL errors way down. I don't care what anybody claims, these washer are garbage, all you have to do is check your local dump or electronics recycler and you'll see how many of these $1K plus machines have been scraped, a lot of them still look almost new!
Seems like the easier solution is to just reconnect the wires with jumpers where the RPS cracked.
Jared Camilli well, the circuitry is incredibly small. You would need something small like a phone wire. Maybe even smaller trust me I considered that pretty heavily.
Thanks for the reply! Yeah. I know what you mean. I have spent a lot of time soldering connections much smaller than this. Compared to other circuits, this RPS's wires are actually very large. With the right equipment (good soldering iron, thin solder and the right wire) it's actually quite easy. You can expose the circuit wires by removing some solder-mask with a paint stripper (unless it's more than dual layer board). Then use very short jumper wires. Another option is to use "longer" (still rather short) jumper wires and run a wire all the way from start to finish, bypassing the circuit board crack completely.
Jared Camilli it would have been an uphill challenge haha
Rotor looks nasty inside. might have a little seepage down the centerpost
pleasecho2 that did in fact happen. I had to replace the seal. it was a fun adventure. I've taken this thing apart three times.
if you have an oasis he quiet Pak 9 washer in the box and bring it back to the people you purchased it from tell them that they're junk and they cause problems after 6 months of holding them to computer will fail
Search jaysappliance Cabrio tub tool on you tube
It sounds like a bad pump :(
I got this same washer off of craigslist from a guy and the washer will not drain, I did the diagnostics test and the error codes F71, F82, and F68 come up. It makes it to C7 then about half way through it stops and hows the error codeF 72. Do you have any suggestions?
My agitator is actually stuck and will not come off the plate any suggestions
You will have NOTHING but problems with that machine. Quit wasting your money and go get yourself a Speed Queen top loader. Built to last a lifetime.
Good so far! Running like a champ!
You are right.. never again will I buy from SEARS!
The 7 year old does it have the same washplate as the new one it is it diffrent if it is the same, save me the washplate
What
I am so sick of this happening! My 'chip' was loose about 4 times and I had to pay them to come tighten it in the slot again. Now it's doing this 51 error when I have a tub full of water!!!!!!!!!!!!
Happening again on March 2015. So sick of this. SEARS knew this was a lemon and did nothing.
It's a POS.
Save me the washplate from the old washer
I threw this hunk of crap out years ago lol. I got way better lg now.
Btw of and samsung is all junk more junk than the oasis
@@ScantPear my LG washing machines are top-of-the-line with 10-year full warranty. Really top-of-the-line excellent cleaning power. The Kenmore Elite Oasis he machines are the worst constructed machines I have personally come across. Every part failed. The parts that failed are the control board, mixing valves, computer display, stator motor bearing, rotor position sensor, lid hinges rusted and broke off, and the actual machine casing itself rusted. That is besides the fact that well properly functioning the machines were never effective in the first place. I classify this as an engineering disaster. I will not ever look at Kenmore machine ever again. I am insulted, ashamed and surprised after tremendous failure.
Lg is total fake it takes 3 hours to do every load of wash and it is hated by everyone so it is junk
@@ScantPear I'm sorry that is very incorrect. I also love the fact that they can handle a lot at one time. You can choose quick wash, long wash you can even increase the water. Best washer and dryer I've ever had hands down. Even better than the old fashioned agitator Style. My first front load style machines. Super quiet and even has storage drawers underneath.
I thought you were showing how to fix it?? Wtf
This machine is the most epic piece of shit that has ever been constructed in a history of the universe. If you have this machine or one like it I suggest you throw it in a dumpster immediately and move on with your life. The LG front load I bought to replace these epic failures are amazing.