I just finished replacing the seal and tub bearings on my washer. When it came to putting the stator back on it was the hardest to do but I did get it back on.
I fixed my old rotor stator using epoxy for plastic made for Plastic. I drilled small holes at the beginning and end of each crack which will prevent the cracks from expanding. Use J-B Weld 50112 ClearWeld Quick-Setting Epoxy Syringe - it hold to 4400 PSI. My UL errors went away.
I have the same uL problem. The cracks are a lot less pronounced. Replacing suspension rods did not fix. My question is, why would filling the cracks with epoxy correct the uL problem? The violent shaking seems like a balance issue that wouldn't care about the filled cracks. Any insight appreciated.
I have lost so much more than blood , sweat and tears on my cabrio washer literally, that anyone n their right mind would have. But somewhere n between now and this senseless battle which has made my family suffer n the process, its become more than just having a working washing machine for me. I replaced the complete suspension, the bearings and the tub seal along with a new control board completely overlapping any rational action on my part what so ever. If u r out there PLEASE! Take 5 minutes 2 help mankind take that next step so i can let this issue go. I am so tiered of the middle class being taken advantage of by these big companies for doing whats right and our so called government just encouraging it. And im not eben a political guy, just a single father trying to make something with very little , thnx
Sorry to hear that your washer has been giving you so much trouble, Joe. We do offer free technical advice and diagnosis. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We also have a free repair forum where the techs can help you troubleshoot the problem: forum.appliancepartspros.com/. We’re here to help 7 days a week.
Guess I need to call you guys,.... Got a ul code and to date have replaced, shaft, bearings, rods, sensor and still have a ul code. thinking maybe my stator but didn't see any cracks not sure where to turn next. Anyone with ideas?@@appliancepartspros
Please please please, show how to recalibrate the WTW6300SW1. I've seen washers must be recalibrated to recognize new parts. I put in a new stator as the old one was cracked. (Watched your video to replace it, pretty straight forward) I've tried everything to get my washer to recode to no avail. Unplugging, replugging it in. Turn dial counterclockwise 360, then one click left, 3 right, one left, one right. NO LIGHTS COME ON. My water does NOT have the lights below the dial - but on the upper right side. Can you please help me?
For the model number that you have provided you wouldn't have to recalibrate anything. Have you had a power outage recently? Did you make sure that everything was installed correctly when you were putting everything back together?
@@appliancepartsprosit was slightly squeaking before. But I think i figured it out. the rotor also had various cracks on it as well. I'm guessing that it was probably from the stators excessive wobbling during high speeds. I'm thinking that parts of the stator may have made contact with the rotor on various occasions causing this or the magnets just couldn't handle the excessive vibration. Its Just a guess but I have the new rotor and will update in a few hours.
I changed the rotor and the problem persist. It's clearly making contact with the stator This is definitely what was causing the squeaking noise before except now with the new rotor it makes a grinding noise when it rotates. This is odd because the stator is centered around the shaft so there shouldn't be any contact between these parts. Could this possibly be a sign of a bad bearing?
@@spc_yacht It sounds like it could be a complicated problem. Give us a call or chat in with us and we'll talk you through figuring out what's wrong and how to repair it.
We'd be happy to help you out with that! We offer free technical advice and diagnosis. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We will need your model number. You can use this tool on our website to help you find the model number: www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
Likewise having this issue, but after replacing the driveshaft and bearing as well. Rotor spinning on stator has a bit of a high spot that throws the whole machine off balance during spin high RPM spin cycle resulting in no code, and when it slows down to a stop the entire thing throws itself from side to side. Only after a high RPM spin cycle. Replaced factory springs that were ~10 years old and still the same issue.
@@MrGGPRI The direct-drive design refers to the puck system Whirlpool used before this 'direct-drive'. It did not have a belt. Now that you've mentioned it, the belt-drive Whirlpools had few failures and the belt commonly ran for 30+ years without failure. LG proved that poly-phase direct drive works decades back. This particular application from Whirlpool is trash.
I just finished replacing the seal and tub bearings on my washer. When it came to putting the stator back on it was the hardest to do but I did get it back on.
Happy to hear that you were able to repair your washer!
I fixed my old rotor stator using epoxy for plastic made for Plastic. I drilled small holes at the beginning and end of each crack which will prevent the cracks from expanding. Use J-B Weld 50112 ClearWeld Quick-Setting Epoxy Syringe - it hold to 4400 PSI. My UL errors went away.
Thanks for that tip!
I have the same uL problem. The cracks are a lot less pronounced. Replacing suspension rods did not fix. My question is, why would filling the cracks with epoxy correct the uL problem? The violent shaking seems like a balance issue that wouldn't care about the filled cracks. Any insight appreciated.
Why is the grease needed on the round metal bracket? It does not move or rotate.
Got as far as removing the Stator cover any tricks to getting it off the spline as its very tight
Very good explanation.
Thank you!
Should the rotor motor bolt come off of the stator housing?
Great video. the tub spins violently. I did replace the suspension rods but continue to have the same problem what do you think I should do?
Replace the tub probably warped
The same instructions apply for Fisher and Paykel machines, correct?
How do you connect the two blue wires that go into the sump pump
Any torque requirements on the stator ring bolts
What is your model number and we can look into this for you.
Where can i get the engine ?
Mano con cuanto voltio puedo poner esta lavadora semi automatica
I have lost so much more than blood , sweat and tears on my cabrio washer literally, that anyone n their right mind would have. But somewhere n between now and this senseless battle which has made my family suffer n the process, its become more than just having a working washing machine for me. I replaced the complete suspension, the bearings and the tub seal along with a new control board completely overlapping any rational action on my part what so ever. If u r out there PLEASE! Take 5 minutes 2 help mankind take that next step so i can let this issue go. I am so tiered of the middle class being taken advantage of by these big companies for doing whats right and our so called government just encouraging it. And im not eben a political guy, just a single father trying to make something with very little , thnx
Sorry to hear that your washer has been giving you so much trouble, Joe. We do offer free technical advice and diagnosis. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We also have a free repair forum where the techs can help you troubleshoot the problem: forum.appliancepartspros.com/. We’re here to help 7 days a week.
Guess I need to call you guys,.... Got a ul code and to date have replaced, shaft, bearings, rods, sensor and still have a ul code. thinking maybe my stator but didn't see any cracks not sure where to turn next. Anyone with ideas?@@appliancepartspros
How do I whirlpool washer wtw6400sw2 belt ?
The model you've listed isn't a belt driven model. It is powered by a stator and rotor.
Please please please, show how to recalibrate the WTW6300SW1. I've seen washers must be recalibrated to recognize new parts. I put in a new stator as the old one was cracked. (Watched your video to replace it, pretty straight forward) I've tried everything to get my washer to recode to no avail. Unplugging, replugging it in. Turn dial counterclockwise 360, then one click left, 3 right, one left, one right. NO LIGHTS COME ON. My water does NOT have the lights below the dial - but on the upper right side. Can you please help me?
Do you happen to have your tech sheet or owners manual? Some models may require a recalibrate, but some models don't require it.
@appliancepartspros owners manual does not advise anything about recalibration. 😔
Did you check the breaker to make sure the breaker wasn't flipped?
For the model number that you have provided you wouldn't have to recalibrate anything. Have you had a power outage recently? Did you make sure that everything was installed correctly when you were putting everything back together?
They crack all the time, Cabrio, Oasis, Bravos Garbage.
After install. I tried turning the rotor manually and it squeaks very loud. Any suggestions?
Was it squeaking previously, or is this a new sound?
@@appliancepartsprosit was slightly squeaking before. But I think i figured it out. the rotor also had various cracks on it as well. I'm guessing that it was probably from the stators excessive wobbling during high speeds. I'm thinking that parts of the stator may have made contact with the rotor on various occasions causing this or the magnets just couldn't handle the excessive vibration. Its Just a guess but I have the new rotor and will update in a few hours.
I changed the rotor and the problem persist. It's clearly making contact with the stator This is definitely what was causing the squeaking noise before except now with the new rotor it makes a grinding noise when it rotates. This is odd because the stator is centered around the shaft so there shouldn't be any contact between these parts. Could this possibly be a sign of a bad bearing?
@@spc_yacht It sounds like it could be a complicated problem. Give us a call or chat in with us and we'll talk you through figuring out what's wrong and how to repair it.
Mine is cracked. It still goes through the wash cycle but not spin. I have error codes f51 & f71
I am having the same problem; stator is on its way for replacement. I think by replacing the stator the problem will go away.
@@phuongnguyen-kc8hi is that what you found? was the uL problem resolved by replacing the slightly cracked stator?
Thank you sir
I replaced my stator motor. Now the rotor scrubs against the stator. Can you tell me why?
We'd be happy to help you out with that! We offer free technical advice and diagnosis. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We will need your model number. You can use this tool on our website to help you find the model number: www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
I am having the same issue. How did you resolve it?
Likewise having this issue, but after replacing the driveshaft and bearing as well. Rotor spinning on stator has a bit of a high spot that throws the whole machine off balance during spin high RPM spin cycle resulting in no code, and when it slows down to a stop the entire thing throws itself from side to side. Only after a high RPM spin cycle. Replaced factory springs that were ~10 years old and still the same issue.
I'm trying to understand the function of the grease for the bracket on the stator motor 🤔
Good
I tried moving the stator by my self and its lock up
POS design. Bring back the direct drive design.
This IS the direct-drive design: no conventional motor and belt to wear and loosen up.
@@MrGGPRI The direct-drive design refers to the puck system Whirlpool used before this 'direct-drive'. It did not have a belt.
Now that you've mentioned it, the belt-drive Whirlpools had few failures and the belt commonly ran for 30+ years without failure.
LG proved that poly-phase direct drive works decades back. This particular application from Whirlpool is trash.
@Weaver Cattle Company Obviously you have no clue. Whirlpool called their puck driven design 'direct drive' for two decades.