UPDATED: Winterize 2018 Mercruiser Alpha1 Stern Drive 4.5 L 250 HP
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 พ.ย. 2022
- Winterizing my 2018 Chaparral with Mercruiser Alpha 1 stern drive with a 4.5L fuel injected engine.
THE MAJOR UPDATE IS PREFILLING THE ENGINE BLOCK WITH ANTIFREEZE TO RESOLVE THE ISSUE WITH THE BLOCK NOT FILLING COMPLETELY USING THE FEED FROM THE CAMCO BOTTLE AND EARMUFFS.
This winterizing process is quite different than in the older engines. The fuel injected and especially catalyst equipped engines cannot be fogged through the intake system like an older carbureted engine. There is a special fuel mix to be made with a high concentration of 2-stroke oil plus fuel stabilizer that then must be fed to the engine through its fuel feed hose. In the video, I will show details of that process, including the special fuel feed rig that I assembled. I did this with a small 1 gallon gas can, hose and fittings with an outboard primer bulb. This works for me, but it does have a risk of spillage since it isn't sealed and requires extra care to not tip it over. It would be safer to purchase a small outboard motor fuel tank and hose assembly to adapt to the engine. Those are usually at least 3 gallon capacity and I was trying to avoid having a large tank only partially full, because it would take a long time for me to use 3 gallons of this mix.
This video shows the details of a separate portable tank and the fittings:
• Fuel Connections for M...
CAUTION: POTENTIAL FOR FUEL SPILLAGE
Before removing the fuel line from the tank to engine: 1. Check your system to be sure that you don't have a fuel pump mounted in the tank. I think this is rare, but worth a check. My 4.5L engine has a fuel pump on the engine that draws from the tank. Your tank will usually have an electric sending unit for the gauge, so there will usually be some wires coming from the tank. 2. Be sure that your fuel tank withdrawal fitting or hose connection is above the fuel level in the tank. If you have a full tank of fuel and raise the bow of the boat, fuel could run from the withdrawal port or open hose when you loosen and remove the fitting. 3. Consider capping the withdrawal fitting on the tank or open hose to prevent fuel or vapor leakage while the fuel line is disconnected.
Then the process includes an engine oil change and stern drive oil change, draining the water from the block, and filling the block with antifreeze using a hose and funnel followed by a Camco kit to feed antifreeze to a running engine. I will also provide more detail of the antifreeze mix that I use and how I use the Camco kit to finish the job.
I have a followup video regarding antifreeze capacity of the block and fill issues:
• Problem & Fix Winteriz...
This video show how to use an inexpensive refractometer to check your antifreeze mixture:
• Use a Refractometer to...
If you like this video, please like and subscribe and support my channel to help me add content.
Supplies that I use for my engine. Note that part numbers can change and should be verified as the latest. Also Mercury often uses different part numbers for Mercury branded vs Quicksilver branded:
92-858064Q01 Quicksilver High Performance Gear Lube (2 qts needed, uses about 1.5)
92-8M0078623 Synthetic Blend Gallon Quicksilver (25W-40) Engine Oil (1 gallon)
92-8M0078622 Synthetic Blend Quart Quicksilver (25W-40) Engine Oil (1 qt) (5 quarts total required, I usually buy 1 gallon jug plus one quart)
35-866340Q03 Oil Filter - Mercury - Mercruiser
57099 Oil Filter - Wix equivalent to Mercury per Catalog
92-858026Q01 Quicksilver Premium Plus 2-Cycle Outboard Oil Syn Blend (use for special gas mix)
31400 Starbrite -50F Antifreeze
31500 Starbrite -100F Antifreeze (full strength or dilute to desired concentration)
31600 Starbrite -200F Antifreeze (dilute to desired concentration)
Also use other brands of non-toxic antifreeze as long as they have corrosion inhibitors for engines.
Sta-Bil 360 Marine Grade Fuel Stabilizer
The 5 gallon antifreeze bottle with the red handle valve is a Camco kit. #65501
www.camco.net/marine-winteriz...
They are available through a number of retailers. You can find it here at Wholesale Marine. I buy many of my supplies through them:
www.wholesalemarine.com/camco...
DISCLAIMER: In my videos, I provide suggestions, demonstrations, and opinions on techniques, methods, and materials for various projects. While I do my best to be sure these are accurate, there are no guarantees, expressed or implied, that my information will work for you. If you wish to use them, you must check and verify that they are appropriate for your use - use them at your own risk. Do-it-yourself projects are variable and there are risks in conducting them. Be sure to follow all safety practices, including proper care handling gasoline. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
This was one of the best videos I have seen for winterizing the 4.5. Good job.
Thank you. It has taken some work to refine the procedure. The official service manual provides some general guidance, but leaves some things out. I think it's pretty solid now.
Great video. Very informative. Thanks for your time putting video together.
Glad it was helpful!
have you had to replace the spark plugs or coil packs on it? would love a video on it if you have it by chance. great video on the winterization.
I have not had the plugs out yet. The manual says to inspect them at various intervals rather than just replace. I think it was 100 hrs at first, then 300 hrs or 3 years. I don't have that many hours yet. I know they don't want misfire to damage the catalysts, but that seems aggressive compared to automotive where we generally run 100,000 miles on plugs, that is like 2000 to 4000 hours. I will say that it is a good idea to remove the plugs on occasion to be sure the threads don't corrode and stick in place. That may be driving the 300 hour recommendation.
As far as coil packs, those have not been replaced either. There really isn't a maintenance interval as far as I am aware. You generally run them until there is a concern. On my 5.0 carbureted GM V8, I replaced a number of ignition parts (pickup, coil, module, plugs, wires) just on general principles at about 20 years or 350+ hours. They weren't showing an issue, but it seemed prudent.
One thing in the marine world is that the environment is different. In the auto world, we work with underhood temperatures above 200F. I haven't had a pleasure boat that would come anywhere near that. So, I expect less heat aging on coils and ignition parts.
Thanks for the video. What fitting size did you use between the engine and you fuel line that you made?
This is what works for my application, you'll need to verify that it matches up with your fittings and doesn't leak. It depends on the adapters at the engine fuel filter housing and / or the fuel tank.:
3/8” I.D. rubber fuel rated hose
Fitting 1: From 3/8” hose barb into hose to 3/8 female NPT pipe thread (brass)
Fitting 2: From 3/8” male NPT pipe thread to 3/8 male SAE 45 degree flare (brass)
Depending on your connection (flare nut vs male fitting), you may need fitting 3.
Fitting 3: 3/8” flare coupling (two SAE 45 degree 3/8 flare nuts connected by short piece of copper)
By using two sets of fittings #1 and #2 and the flare coupling #3, I can seal up the hose for storage to keep dirt out.
The fittings are the standard that are usually available at a hardware store. I initially thought these might be industrial and bought some hydraulic fittings at the farm store. I think those were 37 degree fittings. Those didn’t work.
A Big thanks to you! Your video is an invaluable resource, especially for someone new to boat ownership like me. It thoroughly prepared me by breaking down each step and detail-can't thank you enough for making it!
I'm interested in replicating the special fuel mix gas line setup you used from your gas can to the engine. Could you share any specifications or methods? Alternatively, is it available for purchase?
Cheers,
Bryan 😎
The fuel hose is something that I made up from hardware / auto store parts. This is what works for my application, you'll need to verify that it matches up with your fittings and doesn't leak. It depends on the adapters at the engine fuel filter housing and / or the fuel tank.:
3/8” I.D. rubber fuel rated hose (auto store) - not high pressure fuel injection hose
Fittings from hardware store:
Fitting 1: Conversion from 3/8” hose barb (into hose) to 3/8 female NPT pipe thread (brass)
Fitting 2: Conversion from 3/8” male NPT pipe thread to 3/8 male SAE 45 degree flare (brass)
Depending on your connection (flare nut vs male fitting), you may need fitting 3.
Fitting 3: 3/8” flare coupling (two SAE 45 degree 3/8 flare nuts connected by short piece of copper)
By using two sets of fittings #1 and #2 and the flare coupling #3, I can seal up the hose for storage to keep dirt out.
The fittings are the standard that are usually available at a hardware store. I initially thought these might be industrial and bought some hydraulic fittings at the farm store. I think those were JIC 37 degree fittings. Those didn’t work.
After some more checks, I ended up at a hardware store for "conventional" flare fittings. These are used for soft copper tubing that you would use for water and they come in variations for adapting to hoses and pipe threads. I believe they are SAE 45 degree flare.
It may vary by installation, so your engine or tank fittings could be different. The thread should match so they spin on easily with finger pressure (before final tightening with a wrench). If they are 45 degree flare, a pair of male fittings ought to make a right angle when the flare surfaces are matched up. The main thing is that they shouldn't leak.
Amazing! Thanks for the response!! 😎🙏🏼
@@BryanHudsonocean You're welcome. I also put together an additional video on the portable tank and connections. I hope that helps:
th-cam.com/video/chyeMXcCNGA/w-d-xo.html
Great video! One question, what do you do about the old gas left in the tank? Does it go bad? Do you add stabilizer to it as well? Thanks!
Yes, gas most certainly goes bad. I use STA-BIL, usually the marine grade and I normally use REC fuel without alcohol. STA-BIL claims the gas can go for a year. I have been using a double dose and run as long as two years, but that is stretching it. I add stabilizer when I purchase the gas. I try to either be at a full tank or near empty. For a better explanation, see this video that I have posted:
th-cam.com/video/DoKPvZ4tWUY/w-d-xo.html
Thank you!
Thanks sooo much. Do you change out the filter/separator each time? When you put in the mix, do you remove it? (btw I also have an 86 IROC and have watched those videos too. :)
*fuel filter
Officially, Mercury recommends every 100 hours or 1 year, whichever comes first. Personally, I run low hours and don't always change every year. So far without issue. Perhaps the risk with a water separator is that you get significant condensation in the tank over a winter and plug it with water.
Does running the rich fuel mixture ruin the fuel filter/water separator? Are you going to produce a video showing how to change the fuel filter? Great winterization video!
The fuel mixture with extra-2 stroke oil should not affect the filter. My first reason is that Mercury specifies this process in their service manual. They wouldn't specify that if it wasn't validated to work.
In my opinion, filter elements that can handle gasoline ought to be able to handle the oil, and outboards have run at a variety of mixtures over the years. I believe there was a time when they went as far as 20 or 25:1. While not 10:1, still a heavy mix that marine filters handled without issue.
I have not yet made a fuel filter video, but it's on my to-do list.
And, thank you.
Thanks for your reply. I have the same 2018 Mercruiser motor and Chaparral boat. Very helpful.
This video was very helpful, thank you !
Any chance we can get a video on the proper way to flush this motor out while it’s on the water for those of us docking in the water during the summer?
I would do it, but I really don't have experience with that. I expect you must be in salt water where this would be more important. My boating is all in freshwater and it hasn't been a need.
However, I have seen a couple of systems that might help you.
1. Flushing bag: burgees.com/FlushingBag/Model_MB1.htm
---Most of the flushing bags are intended for use on land, but the flushing bag company has a model for outboards that are in water (at link). They advertise custom bags, so perhaps they could modify an existing stern drive bag. It might be a challenge to get one of these bags under the outdrive, but perhaps it is a solution
2. Super flush device:
www.superflushsystems.com/professional-superflush-sf400c-for-gas-powered-engines
--- This device plumbs into the engine cooling system and with a hose connected will flush the engine without the engine running. The only concern that I had with this one is that the description indicates that you would connect the kit at the block drains by removing the blue plugs. On the 4.5 with single point drains, there are no blue plugs, it might require splicing into a hose. Perhaps the company has a solution to that, I haven't studied it in great depth.
@@bitsofwisdom460I do keep it in brackish water. Salty enough to do damage. The next boat will definitely be an outboard for ease of in water maintenance
Hi, I'm italian and i'm going to launch my new mercruser 4.5 200HP motorizing boat. This video is perfect for me! Thank you very much! Only a question for you: the hose with those fittings you are using in your video to fill your mixture in to the engine or extract oil are sold by the dealer exactly as i'm seeng or is self-made.?
Congratulations on your new boat, I hope you enjoy it!
The fittings and hose to supply the special fuel mix for winterizing are self made. I have had a number of questions and have this video to help explain my solution:
th-cam.com/video/chyeMXcCNGA/w-d-xo.html
The extractor pump for the oil change is this:
www.wholesalemarine.com/jabsco-little-pal-marine-oil-change-pump/
I have been using this brand pump for nearly 40 years. I wore one out a few years ago and am on my second one.
The top of the dipstick tube is a standard fitting that we use for a garden watering hose connection in the US. I purchased one that fits into the end of the large hose from the pump.
@@bitsofwisdom460 Thank you very much Dan! I have another question for you: Can you explain to me exactly what the oil pump fitting is that you screw onto the oil dipstick?
Thank you for this video! I am a visual learner so this is extremely helpful.
Question: Is there any reason you could not just run the boat gas tank down low and then add the fuel stabilizer and two stroke oil directly into the main tank? Once ran I would fill the main tank full and add additional stabilizer. Not contradicting your method but just wanting to see if that works an also a possibility.Thanks again!
Well, there are a number of challenges.
1. When you run the tank down, it is still hard to know exactly how much gas is there for an accurate mix. It's also difficult to get a thorough mix in a short time when you can't shake the tank.
2. Running the tank down gives the risk of running out and causing misfire that will damage the catalysts. I used to run my 1998 (non-cat) down very low before I could get non-ethanol fuel, and at the last couple of gallons would sometimes slosh and the engine would stumble and misfire badly for a few seconds.
3. If you do get down to say 5 gallons, that is 53 ounces of oil. If you had a 30 gallon tank, 53 ounces would be about 70:1. A standard two stroke, oil injected, runs between 50:1 and 100:1. Your boat would smoke like a two stroke and I don't know the effect of the additional oil on the catalyst and O2 sensors when run for a full tank rather than just 5 minutes.
@@bitsofwisdom460 Excellent points and I agree it would be very difficult to get and accurate mix. There would be a lot of guesswork and to your other point potential for more harm than good with running a full tank of even highly diluted 2 stroke oil. I wish Mercury would have come up with a safer way to inject the mix into the fuel system. It seems like an opportunity for an explosion waiting to happen from a DIYer that isn't as thorough in their method as you are.
@@jasoncrymes9608 Yes, using Mercury's official process has its risks because you are taking apart good fuel connections. Last spring, I had a fuel leak. It was good when I put the boat in service in spring. But as careful as I am, I apparently didn't properly tighten the fuel fitting when I put it back together after the winterizing. After a few hours run time it started dripping - it was only finger tight at that point. Fortunately I run the blower a lot to keep it ventilated and I picked up the smell as I was docking, before it became a disaster.
Do you have the summerize version to get ready
Most of my maintenance is done in fall. I did the water pump kit then. In spring, I drain the antifreeze and charge my trolling motor batteries and a little cleaning and I'm ready to go.
Water pump:
th-cam.com/video/HtpreHQSE34/w-d-xo.html
Drain antifreeze:
th-cam.com/video/EPPf9BjRM1g/w-d-xo.html
Charge lithium batteries:
th-cam.com/video/4DdJ4-c0bTU/w-d-xo.html
Just got this boat and it was in salt water , how do I clean the cooling system and should I add anything in it in case corrosion and obv salt
I don't know that I have a good answer. Mercury just advises to flush out the engine with fresh water after every use in salt or brackish water. Once it is flushed, I'm not sure what else you can do for the cooling system. Since it is an open system, traditional engine cleaners don't seem useful. From reading about salt water issues in service manuals, the most significant risk seems to be in the exhaust system water passages due to restriction / overheating or water leakage. Again, I'm not aware of preventive maintenance for that other than disassembly and inspection if you suspect an issue.
Can you tell me in litre (not gallons sorry ;-)) the exatly quantity of fuel, oil and stabilizer did you mix in your tank?
Yes. Now bear with me, I want to be precise:
In US measure, Mercury service manual specifies 2 qts of Premium Plus 2 stroke oil # 92-858026K01 added to 5 Gallon of gasoline, along with 1 oz of #91-8M0047932 Stabilizer. I use a different brand of stabilizer, but the amount is the same.
In Metric measure, it is 1.89 L of oil to 18.93 L of gasoline with 29.5 ml of stabilizer. As you can see it makes a mix of 10 parts gasoline to one part of oil or a 10:1 mixture.
One other question. I've heard horror stories about the single point drain system failing when there is a clog in the drain tubes coming from the block and/or exhaust. If there is a clog from rust/debris, how do I determine if absolutely all of the water has been drained from the system? I read in a forum that someone had a clog unknowingly and when they went to fill with antifreeze, the thermostat must not have opened all the way and water was still trapped in the block and cracked the engine. Thanks in advance for your bits of wisdom!!
I share that concern. I was surprised that I only got a gallon or so of antifreeze back when I drained the block in spring and thought that might be the cause. At first, I didn't deliberately measure it, but it was obvious there wasn't much and my older 5.0 drains about three gallons. That put me on to the experiments in my separate video to measure block fill and drain.
At this point, I drain the engine with the trailer tongue raised enough to be sure that the drain water goes out the back into the pan so that I can measure it. If I don't get close to 1 3/4 gallons (yours could vary, but should be consistent), I would check to see what is wrong. There are quick disconnects as part of the single point drain on both sides of the block down on the "V" near the engine mounts. You can pop these off and verify that the block drains are open with a piece of wire. I did this on mine when trying to understand my issues. My Chaparral has really tight access hatches that make it hard to reach these, but they are there. The fitting in the side of the block doesn't seem to have a large opening because it is a quick connect threaded into a small port in the block. That could lead to a clog.
Also, now that I prefill the block, if it doesn't take that same roughly 1.75 gallons, there is a problem with draining completely.
My sense is that if you circulate antifreeze through the system including all the exhaust related hoses after the block is prefilled, it should be good. I also test and measure a little from the single point drain when I'm done as a cross check.
Could we potentially just remove the thermostat before adding the antifreeze to make sure the water in the block is evacuated?
@@HakunaPatata Removing the blue plug in the thermostat housing will essentially bypass the thermostat and do the same thing as removing the thermostat. But this won't help if the drains are restricted, because the restrictions are at the exit points down low.
I have had block drains plug on my 5.0 V8 due to rust in the block or sand / silt being picked up from the lake bottom. But there you can see that it isn't draining because there are 5 separate plugs on that engine rather than the single point. A can only think of three ways to check for complete draining. 1. determine your normal drain volume and check that it all drained or 2. pull the quick connects and run a wire through them or 3. Measure the antifreeze amount that it takes to fill the block through the blue plug and compare it to normal drain amount.
That makes sense. Thanks so much for your advice!
@@HakunaPatata You're welcome.
how to change the spark plugs
I don't have a video yet for the 4.5. This one is for the 5.0 and is similar:
th-cam.com/video/A-A0Upu1cQg/w-d-xo.html
For the 4.5, the plugs are down below the lower exhaust manifold section that runs forward. Mercruiser says to use a thin wall socket, turn the boots 90 degrees to break them loose before pulling them off. For installation, torque in an existing head is 14 N-m or ~ 10 ft-lb. Mercury says that if you can't get a torque wrench on them "tighten securely".
I had someone comment that they did their 4.5 with only a thin wall socket and without needing the tools I used in the 5.0. It may vary with each engine.
Is there a .pdf book that tells you all these steps for this motor?
I am not aware of anything in PDF. There could be something third party, but I haven't seen it yet. I use Mercury factory manuals that are only hard copy. They can be a little challenging to navigate, but they are the best that I have seen. You can order direct from Mercury. They ask for your serial numbers to be sure they send the correct one. There is a manual for the engine and a separate one for the outdrive.
@@bitsofwisdom460 I found an operation manual for it that covers the 4.5L and others too. Putting that with your video I am determined to save the $600 I paid last season and do this myself. Thanks for doing the video. I am a lawyer and don't have time for it - that is until the price got high enough and now I do plumbing, electrical, etc. Thank goodness for people like you doing tutorials!
@@Digiphex That's seems like a rather stiff price for that work, but I haven't had it done at the dealer for a while.
Glad that you found a manual. I have used third party manuals and they can be helpful. Just keep in mind that sometimes the factory manual can provide more detail to help you out of a jam.
@@bitsofwisdom460 Yeah it is because I am at a dock with no means to move the boat to a dealer and it has a charge of coming out here. But still it is astronomical compared to 3 years ago.
@@Digiphex Since you mention being at a dock, note that if you need to drain the block when the boat is in the water you usually need to locate and disconnect the hose from the outdrive / water pump to the engine to keep from siphoning water back into the engine while it is trying to drain. If you have a lift / hoist and can get the outdrive out of the water, then it's not an issue.