In the NDM you don’t need all the wires on the dcc chip you can remove the white, yellow, blue and purple wires as the NDM don’t need the light function only red and black and orange and grey wires to operate the motor only which will reduce the thickness of the wires
Thank you for putting this vidoe together, i had the same problem as well, i was so angry i could of happily put my APT in the bin, but something told me there was fix for this problem, then i saw this video last night so when i got home from work i tried this fix, and now my APT runs like a dream with no derialments Many thanks keep up the good work
Mate. You are an absolute legend! Thank you so much for your instructive videos. My APT kept derailing and your fix has solved my problem. Thank you again.
That’s a brilliant fix, I thought about putting the decoder inside but just ended up putting it in where they recommended, I had no idea that there was movement below and stopping the body tilting, now seems so obvious you’ve pointed it out, will be relocating my decoder, thanks for sharing 👍 cheers Darrell
Excellent, really pleased that you got it going. And some great scenic work going on too. Mine is still in the box, awaiting a layout, but I'll keep this in mind when I get it running, thank you!
You should be able to tune vehicle speed using a speed table in the DCC chip for each NDM. Doing this will allow you to have them on the same address without using consisting. You might need a better DCC decoder than the Hornby one though. Last Hornby one I ended up with was very basic and had almost no configuration options though :(
@@stocktonjunction I've got few videos on my channel showing a really basic method for tuning speed that don't depend on anything special -- just a tape measure, a stopwatch, and a DCC system that can set CVs is all that is required. That lovely ECoS will be fine, I'm not so sure about that Hornby decoder unfortunately.
Yes I unfortunately have to agree which is sad really as I'd prefer to support a uk (partly) company ...but when companies like rapido bring out amazing models ..like my apt-e dcc sound fitted that's made to a quality much higher than hornby and for a lower price too then I have to wonder if they arnt shooting themselves in the foot ..id hate to see hornby disappear but I do feel there quality is getting lower and prices going sky high and that is not a good way to go and consumers will be put off and buy other brands if they don't get there act together.
@@nigelericogden3200 yes it certainly is. And when u actually feel the strength and quality of it in person its outstanding thebuild quality detailing and electrics are all something other manufacturers should be striving for as rapido haven't sat there working out how to maximise profit but on how to build the best model they can for a extremely amazing price 😀
Hi, very interesting video, amazing how something like that can cause the frustrating derailments. And it's great how you can get some good info from the railway community out there to help you out. John
Question: How do you get the pantograph off, in order to remove the top of the body? I reached the limit of how hard I was willing to pull on it, on account of the black paint flaking off the support arms that connect it to the bogie...
For the DTS’s again the decoders don’t need all the wires only red,black,yellow,white and blue wires are needed just to operate the head/tail lights as there is no motor in these so you can do away with all the other decoder wires
I would say bad designed by Hornby. it a lot of money to take it all apart (which i fine with all model trains built in last 30 years Difficult and easy to brake of plastic bits )
In the NDM you don’t need all the wires on the dcc chip you can remove the white, yellow, blue and purple wires as the NDM don’t need the light function only red and black and orange and grey wires to operate the motor only which will reduce the thickness of the wires
Thanks that will make it even better ..some great advice...😀
Thank you for putting this vidoe together, i had the same problem as well, i was so angry i could of happily put my APT in the bin, but something told me there was fix for this problem, then i saw this video last night so when i got home from work i tried this fix, and now my APT runs like a dream with no derialments
Many thanks keep up the good work
Excellent news 😀
Mate. You are an absolute legend! Thank you so much for your instructive videos. My APT kept derailing and your fix has solved my problem. Thank you again.
Your welcome. I've just got hold of the newer apt power car so need to test that soon ..
Glad you found a fix! Thanks for sharing the fix as I am picking up an APT myself and now know what to watch out for when installing the decoder.
Welcome
That’s a brilliant fix, I thought about putting the decoder inside but just ended up putting it in where they recommended, I had no idea that there was movement below and stopping the body tilting, now seems so obvious you’ve pointed it out, will be relocating my decoder, thanks for sharing 👍 cheers Darrell
Your welcome 😀
Glad you got it working. Looks really good as a full formation especially going round the Helix. Thanks for the name check too
😀
Your welcome many thanks for your help 😀
A Great fix Rik, thanks for sharing
Excellent, really pleased that you got it going. And some great scenic work going on too. Mine is still in the box, awaiting a layout, but I'll keep this in mind when I get it running, thank you!
Your welcome
You should be able to tune vehicle speed using a speed table in the DCC chip for each NDM. Doing this will allow you to have them on the same address without using consisting.
You might need a better DCC decoder than the Hornby one though. Last Hornby one I ended up with was very basic and had almost no configuration options though :(
Thanks I will have to look into that... not something I've ever tried before
@@stocktonjunction I've got few videos on my channel showing a really basic method for tuning speed that don't depend on anything special -- just a tape measure, a stopwatch, and a DCC system that can set CVs is all that is required. That lovely ECoS will be fine, I'm not so sure about that Hornby decoder unfortunately.
@@DongitsModelRailway thanks ill have a look tomorrow 👍
Well done Rik !! Problems with Hornby trains seems epidemic from what I view on TH-cam.
Yes I unfortunately have to agree which is sad really as I'd prefer to support a uk (partly) company ...but when companies like rapido bring out amazing models ..like my apt-e dcc sound fitted that's made to a quality much higher than hornby and for a lower price too then I have to wonder if they arnt shooting themselves in the foot ..id hate to see hornby disappear but I do feel there quality is getting lower and prices going sky high and that is not a good way to go and consumers will be put off and buy other brands if they don't get there act together.
@@stocktonjunction Rapido’s APT E is absolutely epic … my favourite train of all time … if I had the dosh and a decent layout … All the best , N
@@nigelericogden3200 yes it certainly is. And when u actually feel the strength and quality of it in person its outstanding thebuild quality detailing and electrics are all something other manufacturers should be striving for as rapido haven't sat there working out how to maximise profit but on how to build the best model they can for a extremely amazing price 😀
Hi, very interesting video, amazing how something like that can cause the frustrating derailments. And it's great how you can get some good info from the railway community out there to help you out. John
Yes i agree on both aspects I like doing videos that might help people but also love it that people comment to help myself and others too
Question: How do you get the pantograph off, in order to remove the top of the body? I reached the limit of how hard I was willing to pull on it, on account of the black paint flaking off the support arms that connect it to the bogie...
It is connected with 2 screws if I give me a few mins ill post a quick video. U need a long thin screw driver to remove them
good vid on you channel thanks lee
Thanks
For the DTS’s again the decoders don’t need all the wires only red,black,yellow,white and blue wires are needed just to operate the head/tail lights as there is no motor in these so you can do away with all the other decoder wires
@@davidcoleman3773 the dts's don't seem to suffer the derailment issues only the ndm's for some reason 🤔
I would say bad designed by Hornby. it a lot of money to take it all apart (which i fine with all model trains built in last 30 years Difficult and easy to brake of plastic bits )
Yes your totally right and some of the highly detailed models are great to see but can be delicate I find heljans the worst for bits falling off