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Lighting looks awesome 👌

Wow, lovely new additions, Superb collection of 50s, 👍🏻👍🏻ATB Stuart

Excellent, i use these in some of my buildings and to light up my station canopies, 👍🏻

I try and stick them down to a bit of Ali angle section, being angle it keeps it straight, the glue doesn't come off as it never gets too hot thanks to the heatsinking from the Aluminium, a bit of 25mm angle would be prefect for this application, comes in 6m lengths from the actual suppliers ;-)

LEDs look a treat. ideal for lighting up the fiddle. thanks for sharing. cheer's Tony.

I appreciate that this is a 3 year old video and the shed is now completed, but I was wondering why you didn't set a level of bricks or blocks on the concreted ground pads where you've used timber supporting ground posts instead? Any timber touching the ground directly, including if partly buried in concrete in the ground, will get damp and slowly begin to rot over the years, even if it's treated wood. This is why concreted wooden fence posts never last, rot and break after about 10 - 20 years. I have built many sheds and decking platforms and found it best to set blocks or bricks in the ground on small but deep (about 24 - 36 inches) concrete foundations, making sure they are all set level with each other a few inches above the highest ground point. This is then used to rest the shed floor framework upon. CRITICALLY, between the framework and brick/block ground supports you place a piece of damp proof course plastic (cut off a DPC roll) which stops the ground's moisture/damp rising up into the wooden framework, floor, walls and so on. This eliminates the prospect of constant damp wood and it's associated rotting. Worth noting for any future projects! Anyway, I enjoy the channel, you've done some really great work there on the layout. Regards Julian

nice lighting four the layout the will look good on the layout good work thanks for the share on channel thanks lee

Nice addition the LED lights, just a heads up.. they don't stick to wood very well and tent to unstick fairly quickly, they also get very hot!. My advice would be to stick them to some form of plastic strips and then glue or screw the plastic to the base boards :) - just got to the end of the vid and you mentioned super glue :) hopefully it works okay.

Hoovertastic :) another vac man. do love the 50's :) - we had the same with the PTA's, wallet defiantly felt a pinch!

Great haul of rolling stock there 👍

I have the old household Dyson handheld in the modelling room, held together by bodge tape and a couple of cable ties. It works 20% of the time… Perhaps it’s time I got a new one!

Nice new engines, ya got a nice layout, come and join me and fellow other modelers tomoz night with Donegal dad then after Barnabas juncton and on Saturday RGJ trains where I am a mod

What is the product code for the Hornby APT Driving motor?

Hi. Watching your video reminds me of me. I have 30 plus Hornby class 50s. With all 9 Accurascale on order. I've just received my Accurascale Class 37 Dutch livery. I've subscribed, and hopefully, you will in return. Regards. Steve

this very helpful. I learned something. However either I was not fast enough or amazon doesn't have them. I got something else for about the same price so, happy ending

Nice haul you've got there. Always nice to see what others have acquired. Thank you for sharing 👍

Hi, great video and catch up, sorry to hear you had issues with Hornby and the APT, there are plenty of videos on all the issues on the first run of the newer tooled models, I’m sure they updated the bogie towers and drive shafts and made the compartment for the new 21 pin decoder socket goes a bit bigger, there are spares for the bogies available from a few places, unfortunately Hornby won’t ever send you spares because it would cost them money they haven’t got, I advise all modellers to be very aware of Hornby’s attitude towards customers who have issues with their products, when you call they out you get called a Hornby basher! All those fools whom protect them can go and boil their own heads as far as I’m concerned! I don’t really buy Hornby products anymore because of an issue I had with their 21 pin HST packs and their poor working roof fans, I find that your better off sorting the issues yourself with the help of modellers who have had similar experiences because that’s when you realise how underdeveloped Hornby products can be at times, their lack of a QA department is shocking because they want to save money, one day they will be taken over by people who care and they will be a good company again, thanks for sharing.

great vid

Interesting topic......

great vid nice new train thanks for the shear on your channel thanks lee

Well done Sir. Any idea what time period these were in use?

Thanks. Two other comments I hear are that the low profile sleepers mean you have to do something to raise it to meet the height of the PECO points, and that it’s hard to ballast for the same reason. Any experience of these issues? Ta.

Hi, just found your channel and am enjoying catching up. Obviously no help to you but might help others; I’m just about to start my first layout (00 gauge) which will involve building two helices, and I was able to buy all my 3rd radius on a well known auction site for around £10 for a full circle of brand new Hornby track.

Note that the old stainless steel track is not the same as the current legacy track. The old stainless steel track would have needed much less cleaning, but would be extremely difficult to solder. The current track is very similar to other track (nickel silver) and thus should need cleaning approximately the same amount as any other nickel silver track. It is possible that a higher nickel content may retard speed of oxidation. It might be worthwhile making a controlled test between Legacy track and Peco track.

Even today some 44 years after i got one of the original Horngy APT's, the various issues with even todays models still exist! On other videos issues with Acura Scale models derailing - i think Class 37 and Deltics from memory. The original APT was always a good runner, with its uprated Ringfield motor, albeit with only a 5 car set. The Mainline (by Palitoy) Class 45's always looked great, but with the scale flanges and complicated bogie design used to have derailment issuee, whilst most Hornby locos always needed stripping down, and extra weight added. Whilst the infamous problems with the then generation DCC in the shape of the Hornby Zero1 were well known. I actually had an HM5000 - which was the same system, and went as far as having fully invested with Accesory modules and even the Zero1 Micromimmic system. Unfortunately there was a fundamental design flaw in the H&M Controller, where the rather crude 16 step speed slider would begin to wear on its contacts, meaning you lost most of the speed control. In the end i went back to analogue with Gauge Master....

Just planted my 1st seeds, getting a good show, thank you for your video,

I love the size of the fiddle yard. it wont take you long to fill it up with your rolling stock. great stuff. Tony.

Fantastic video great fiddle yard. Only an observation, on your main lines passing through your fiddle yard is it possible to have a cross over points to either rail? This meens adding 4 extra points 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom. But this woylsd allow any train to use any fiddlw sidding. Great work keep it going.Alan.

Hi, I finally got my hands on the Kernow exclusive RTC livery class 31, it is a superb model that runs very well, I’m not that worried about the colour disparity because Kernow didn’t do anything about it as they pay extra for the models to be made, I’m not sure if they’ve produced anything else with Hornby since, the Bachmann RTC livery in the alternative colour scheme is very nice, I managed to get one at a great price because they are quite rare, Hornby are a company that rarely seem to get colour schemes correct because they let the factory do what they want to do, to be fair Hornby produce more RTC livery items than any other manufacturer in the Uk, the Railroad range RTC is not for me because it’s overpriced ex Lima very old mouldings.

I concur. I've used BLW provided Lais decoders for a few years now and the service and products are excellent. Program the decoder before attaching the stayalive. BTW, don't twist the wires together when soldering, it creates a weak spot that can break in the future. Instead tin both straight wires, put them side by side (ends on overlapping) then solder. Regards Julian

one year later how is the soldering iron 926 V3 going

I hummed and hawed on whether I should purchase. When I decided to purchase sold out

I wasn't brave enough to weather my own wagons. I ended up buying some Cavalex HAA's & went for a mix of heavy & medium weathering.

Are they still copying other manufacturer's IP?

Very nice coaches. I was fortunate enough to get them from accurascale when they sold off stock that people cancelled on pre order. The body unclips very easily from the chassis just use a thin credit card only 4 clips, cheers Andy

Can you 3D print Hornby & Bachmann loco lamps for their class 08 shunters with a small hole through the lamps and in various colours? If so it make life less complicated when fitting directional lighting to them, black and grey are the main colours if you could, I’ve just fitted a set in my Hornby model which make the loco come to life in my opinion.

Hi, great video of a set of coaches a lot of modellers would like but Accurascale being the low volume manufacturer that could have easily sold 2000 sets of these coaches, in my opinion they have kept the secondhand prices inflated by doing a run of 400, I hope Bachmann re- release their vast range of RTC coaches they have in their vaults. These coaches are the best I’ve ever seen in the great RTC livery to date, if Bachmann re-release their RTC coaches they will be more expensive but at least you’ll be able to by them easily enough even if they did them through the collectors club.

Does anyone have one of these for sale, or know of anyone who does? I'm looking for this set s in the video. I can find several of the basic models but I am looking for this one. Great review! Geoff

Nice video

good vid on update on channel thanks lee

If one wanted a flowering hedge would it be a matter just adding colored flocking after he had made the hedges just as you showed?

Mate. You are an absolute legend! Thank you so much for your instructive videos. My APT kept derailing and your fix has solved my problem. Thank you again.

Not sure if they're still available, but have you brought the second run APT? From what I can gather, they seemed to be improved from the 2020 APT.

I like the trains and layout 😊.

cool work on layout layout looks good lot worg going on thanks lee

Just ordered these 2 coaches. Is your 24 by Suttons? I picked up one of those and it is fantastic.

Look at Charlie on chadwick for them class 08

good vid on channel thanks lee

On my helix, an oval with a 2.5% ruling grade and radius 4 outer (up) track, I installed the Powerbase pieces and held the track on as did you, with screws in the middle.. I added the powerbase magnets to my Scotsman, first using BlakTak - big mistake! The magnets ripped off by the third screw and derailed everything. Second try, with the magnets installed using the packaging per the instructions, not problem staying on the loco, but I did experience many slowdowns as the loco passed over the screws. After a lot of work, the screws were gone, and the track is now held down with TINY 10mm screws, mostly through the outside sleepers (but some in the middle), and no problem. I can now pull an eight coach train easily. Note: I had the room to add an 18" tangent after each 180 degrees so I could achieve enough clearance to get my clumsy mitts in for re-railing or cleaning. Also, the baseboard has had the center cut out to a 30" diameter so I can get inside for wiring and maintenance. On a second line on my layout, a 4% incline up to a mine site for a shunter and six or so wagons, I put the powerbase on with CopyDex, and attached the track with CopyDex with NO problems. Also, watching the video, kit appears that the riser rod right in front of the camera could be adjusted down a couple mm, as the loco and coaches show a slight hump there, whihc would explain the slight slowdown and near-slipping approaching that position.

Frog wire is always green because frogs are green.