I have done around 5,000 alignments on a hunter, so I found this fascinating, like an alternate universe of alignments. Great tips to get it done without mounting targets on the wheels.
13:27 pointer on "outside" of scribe line.. you zeroed on the back of the tire (widest spot) so pointer needs to be outboard of scribe line.. also, not sure it matters for a chassis like that but any other suspension car should be rolled forward/backward a bit after coming back down to ground to relax suspension before checks/adjustments.. Thanks for the videos... it is rare that this type of info is "given up" by pro's.. 40 some years in the auto repair industry and got to race about half of that.. not too often someone takes the time to spell this stuff out for regulars...
congrats on the win with mike knowles, and thanks for all the vids, you learn more in 10 minutes than most any other motorsport video. You're the man, Tim. Carmi
I have a wheel adapter for my digital protractor so I can check caster by turning the wheels 30’ both directions on each side to check angle. Instead of having the wheels strait foreword. You can tell the actual spindle degree when the wheel is turned either way.
I'm really new to this and learning a lot. full notebook stays on the desk to take notes on every video. I know compared to a normal street car your front end goes up and down in weight so much in seconds you have to pick the best settings you can. /I would guess these cars still return to center pretty much with the caster/camber set like that wouldn't they? I need to learn more about a street set up but figured why not learn on a pro-mod where everything is easy to see and has infinite adjustment
I've always studied road racing, but everybody I know has me working on their drag cars so I've been watching some your videos. I have a question about these all the struts I'm seeing on their cars. None of them has a uniball or anything on that top, just sandwhich bolted to the top mount on the top. Why is that? Won't that put a bending load on the strut while adjusting camber and caster?
bump steer is not an adjustment, it is a condition... steering geometry out of sync (lower control arm to steering linkage) that causes a "toe in " change in the chassis travel up and down.. The amount of impropriety between the arc of the steering linkage and the arc of the lower control arm determine the amount of toe change you could but trying to "adjust" this would be pretty sketchy (is possible but not a normal thing) In drag racing? can not imagine why you would want this condition..
I have a staggered setup on my dodge charger, 20inch wheels... dodge just did an alignment and now my car is pulling roughly on uneven roads.... they say they cant get it straight because my wheels sizes are different and that i should square my wheels..... this is nonsense right!?!? They were fine the first time i had them put on... what do you think?
"Turn tables" are probably what you are referring too? best reason? good ones are hundreds of $$$.. if you want a "hack" for these? go to walmart and buy a couple of the white plastic cutting boards (4 actually) and put 2 under each front tire.. enough "lubricity" to work as back yard turntables..
I have done around 5,000 alignments on a hunter, so I found this fascinating, like an alternate universe of alignments. Great tips to get it done without mounting targets on the wheels.
13:27 pointer on "outside" of scribe line.. you zeroed on the back of the tire (widest spot) so pointer needs to be outboard of scribe line.. also, not sure it matters for a chassis like that but any other suspension car should be rolled forward/backward a bit after coming back down to ground to relax suspension before checks/adjustments..
Thanks for the videos... it is rare that this type of info is "given up" by pro's.. 40 some years in the auto repair industry and got to race about half of that.. not too often someone takes the time to spell this stuff out for regulars...
congrats on the win with mike knowles, and thanks for all the vids, you learn more in 10 minutes than most any other motorsport video. You're the man, Tim.
Carmi
Love a Person who gets it done with out conputers. 👍
Thank you so much for your work !!!! And doing this for free !!!!!!!!
Another great video, many thanks
I have a wheel adapter for my digital protractor so I can check caster by turning the wheels 30’ both directions on each side to check angle. Instead of having the wheels strait foreword. You can tell the actual spindle degree when the wheel is turned either way.
All Ways the Very Best My Friend ! .
woulnt it be easier to set the steering wheel straight first then set the toe ? thats how its done on car alignments
I'm really new to this and learning a lot. full notebook stays on the desk to take notes on every video. I know compared to a normal street car your front end goes up and down in weight so much in seconds you have to pick the best settings you can. /I would guess these cars still return to center pretty much with the caster/camber set like that wouldn't they? I need to learn more about a street set up but figured why not learn on a pro-mod where everything is easy to see and has infinite adjustment
Nice explanation, Thankyou
I'd recommend you fix the air pressure and stagger in the front first before you start the alignment
Thanks for the awesome videos the only thing I did see was where to set the motor angles and how far back is ideal That would be good I foe thanks
Why does it bounce like that when you let it of the jack?
Are the dampers set like that when you race it?
Nice vid, thanx. :)
I've always studied road racing, but everybody I know has me working on their drag cars so I've been watching some your videos. I have a question about these all the struts I'm seeing on their cars. None of them has a uniball or anything on that top, just sandwhich bolted to the top mount on the top. Why is that? Won't that put a bending load on the strut while adjusting camber and caster?
What about bump steer? Do you show a video on that? That's very important, too..but not as straight forward to adjust.
bump steer is not an adjustment, it is a condition... steering geometry out of sync (lower control arm to steering linkage) that causes a "toe in " change in the chassis travel up and down.. The amount of impropriety between the arc of the steering linkage and the arc of the lower control arm determine the amount of toe change
you could but trying to "adjust" this would be pretty sketchy (is possible but not a normal thing) In drag racing? can not imagine why you would want this condition..
What are you using to keep the wheel centered to set toe?
is the caster & camber. the same on a coil over front end car
I have a staggered setup on my dodge charger, 20inch wheels... dodge just did an alignment and now my car is pulling roughly on uneven roads.... they say they cant get it straight because my wheels sizes are different and that i should square my wheels..... this is nonsense right!?!? They were fine the first time i had them put on... what do you think?
I'm working on a AWD Dodge charger but isn't a AWD transfer case that is rated for 4000hp even monster trucks are only 1500hp to 2000hp
At 13:29 don't you want the scribe line to be inside the pointer, not pointer inside the scribe line 1/8" ?
You're right, he had it backwards. You definitely want the scribe line INSIDE of the pointer at the front of the tire.
ANOTHER excellent video. Seems like you're giving up a lot of info.
Four wheel alignment??
Why wouldn't you just use toe plates?
"Turn tables" are probably what you are referring too? best reason? good ones are hundreds of $$$.. if you want a "hack" for these? go to walmart and buy a couple of the white plastic cutting boards (4 actually) and put 2 under each front tire.. enough "lubricity" to work as back yard turntables..
I've used plywood for that.
I wish you would use a white board, makes it easier to visualize, at least for me , haa ha