Also receive the 'key reading' error quite frequently and have to fiddle with the smart key connection more than I feel I should? Love your videos and channel - going to save us a lot of money! Local marina charges quite a lot - and surprisingly aren't as picky about service and maintenance as I myself am.
ShiggityShatz I'm not sure what year your machine is, but they changed the key system a few years ago. The connection between the key and the boat is definitely more finicky than in older models on my 2012 GTR, but it shouldn't disconnect when riding normally. If it does, you need to get it checked into (especially before the warranty expires). Make sure the key is still in good shape (clean and free of debris). Good luck1
3ftDeep Thanks - its a 2014 model. Never happens while riding - just on start up, and only occasionally. Can be a bit frustrating as it takes a few tries. Nothing serious - any forums you reccommend? A quick google search resulted in more than I expected.
ShiggityShatz My 2012 is the same way. The older models were more forgiving, but my machine requires the key to be put on perfectly perpendicular to the post, or it won't connect. I agree it's annoying but I find I'm getting better at getting it on right the first time.
I love you guys. Best sub ever. I appreciate you guys taking the time to upload this stuff. I love working on my watercraft alone and you folks are the reason why I'm able to. Thank you
Thanks for the kind words. The work involved in fixing the squeak is probably more extensive than it's worth. We've had the same problem and never bothered to fix it. If we need to get into the steering column in the future, we'll make sure to make a video of the fix. Good luck.
Hi there. I like your video on removal of the handlebar covers. I am installing a cruise/ski module on my 2011 GTI130SE and everything looks pretty straight forward to install the module. The instructions for removing the cluster and handlebar covers are a bit less clear in the instructions. I noticed that you removed the ring around of the DESS post, but it doesn't look like you removed the DESS post before removing the handlebar housing. Do I have to remove the DESS ring in order to get the handlebar housing off? Thanks.
I didn't remove the DESS post, only the cutoff switch retaining nut. It's a bit tricky getting to the tabs, especially the deep ones that bind the two halves along the midline. I didn't miss out any steps, so follow what I did, if you have the same handlebar cover. Good luck!
Any thoughts on how to deal with a squeaky/clumsy steering? We've had our GTR 215 for almost 2 summers now - around 50hrs on her. Love the ski, IBR controls are fine - just notice a squeaking noise and slight friction when cornering at low speeds.
ShiggityShatz The steering is a bit trickier in the older models and I have to admit, I haven't had to tackle it yet on my 2012. A little squeaking and some friction is normal and will increase with age. You should first find out if you're still covered under the warranty, and if this problem falls under it. Also, you need to determine if the friction is coming from the steering column, the cable, or the nozzle linkages. If you do dig into the cable system at the rear of the boat, make you replace the cable steering lock, as I've heard these can fail prematurely. I've replaced mine with an aluminum one. Good luck!
3ftDeep Thanks a lot for the quick reply and great info! I believe warranty was up quite literally a couple weeks ago - looks like I need to call our dealer asap - It's probably just me being OCD, though it does take a beating, glad I asked! Thanks again - you're videos are great - the recent 'Swamp Ride' had me clenching my desk, lol - great shots, need to take our Ski somewhere other than a choppy lake. Happy riding!
@@3ftDeepChannel Sounds good, i adjusted by hand but seemed it just kept turning :/ no issues though- but i guess worse case scenario is replacing the lower black plastic cover which has the plastic threads in it.
The screw on the throttle and brake levers never really got tight after assembly and will spin if turned. The lever has some play in it but won't pull off if I pull up on it gently. Did yours get tight enough at 6ft/lbs to not spin?
If for some reason the threads are stripped, you can always dry it completely and then put a little epoxy in the threaded hole before you 'tighten' it up.
jetguy1205 We don't always use the recommended products, but I always like to include the recommended (by Sea-Doo) products in our videos. Thanks for your comment.
Also receive the 'key reading' error quite frequently and have to fiddle with the smart key connection more than I feel I should? Love your videos and channel - going to save us a lot of money! Local marina charges quite a lot - and surprisingly aren't as picky about service and maintenance as I myself am.
ShiggityShatz I'm not sure what year your machine is, but they changed the key system a few years ago. The connection between the key and the boat is definitely more finicky than in older models on my 2012 GTR, but it shouldn't disconnect when riding normally. If it does, you need to get it checked into (especially before the warranty expires). Make sure the key is still in good shape (clean and free of debris). Good luck1
3ftDeep Thanks - its a 2014 model. Never happens while riding - just on start up, and only occasionally. Can be a bit frustrating as it takes a few tries. Nothing serious - any forums you reccommend? A quick google search resulted in more than I expected.
ShiggityShatz My 2012 is the same way. The older models were more forgiving, but my machine requires the key to be put on perfectly perpendicular to the post, or it won't connect. I agree it's annoying but I find I'm getting better at getting it on right the first time.
HAD SOME ISSUES WITH MY 2012 GTI'S 130. KEY WAS NOT COMING ON. JUST PUSH THE RED START-STOP BUTTON FIRST, THEM PUT THE KEY ON. FIXED MY ISSUE!
I love you guys. Best sub ever. I appreciate you guys taking the time to upload this stuff. I love working on my watercraft alone and you folks are the reason why I'm able to. Thank you
Hey thanks very much! Comments like yours really help us to keep motivated to produce content.
Your videos are amazing! I have a 2015 GTI with squeaky handlebars. Could you make a video on the proper way to fix? Thanks
Thanks for the kind words. The work involved in fixing the squeak is probably more extensive than it's worth. We've had the same problem and never bothered to fix it. If we need to get into the steering column in the future, we'll make sure to make a video of the fix. Good luck.
I had the same issue and I agree, it was annoying. Made it sound cheap. But, Mine just went away after awhile. I got 107 hours
Hi there. I like your video on removal of the handlebar covers. I am installing a cruise/ski module on my 2011 GTI130SE and everything looks pretty straight forward to install the module. The instructions for removing the cluster and handlebar covers are a bit less clear in the instructions. I noticed that you removed the ring around of the DESS post, but it doesn't look like you removed the DESS post before removing the handlebar housing. Do I have to remove the DESS ring in order to get the handlebar housing off? Thanks.
I didn't remove the DESS post, only the cutoff switch retaining nut. It's a bit tricky getting to the tabs, especially the deep ones that bind the two halves along the midline. I didn't miss out any steps, so follow what I did, if you have the same handlebar cover. Good luck!
Very helpful thank you!
Any thoughts on how to deal with a squeaky/clumsy steering? We've had our GTR 215 for almost 2 summers now - around 50hrs on her. Love the ski, IBR controls are fine - just notice a squeaking noise and slight friction when cornering at low speeds.
ShiggityShatz The steering is a bit trickier in the older models and I have to admit, I haven't had to tackle it yet on my 2012. A little squeaking and some friction is normal and will increase with age. You should first find out if you're still covered under the warranty, and if this problem falls under it. Also, you need to determine if the friction is coming from the steering column, the cable, or the nozzle linkages. If you do dig into the cable system at the rear of the boat, make you replace the cable steering lock, as I've heard these can fail prematurely. I've replaced mine with an aluminum one. Good luck!
3ftDeep Thanks a lot for the quick reply and great info! I believe warranty was up quite literally a couple weeks ago - looks like I need to call our dealer asap - It's probably just me being OCD, though it does take a beating, glad I asked! Thanks again - you're videos are great - the recent 'Swamp Ride' had me clenching my desk, lol - great shots, need to take our Ski somewhere other than a choppy lake. Happy riding!
CAN I SPRAY LUBE WITH NOZZLE STICK IN BETWEEN THE LEVER CRACK, WITHOUT TAKING IT OFF???
Well, that's what the service manual says. I don't think you can do as good a job using your method, but it's up to you.
Did you just hand torque the bolt holding down the plastic finger throttle?
Yes. Whenever we go buy the book on those delicate torques it usually ends up stripping or crushing something. We just went by feel.
@@3ftDeepChannel Sounds good, i adjusted by hand but seemed it just kept turning :/ no issues though- but i guess worse case scenario is replacing the lower black plastic cover which has the plastic threads in it.
The screw on the throttle and brake levers never really got tight after assembly and will spin if turned. The lever has some play in it but won't pull off if I pull up on it gently. Did yours get tight enough at 6ft/lbs to not spin?
Yikes, that's inch pounds ...not foot pounds. Hopefully you haven’t stripped the threads.
@@3ftDeepChannel Thanks for the clarification but didn't really get that far as I turned it by hand and never really gave resistance?
That’s very strange. It should be like screwing into plastic and eventually you should not be able to turn it by hand anymore.
If for some reason the threads are stripped, you can always dry it completely and then put a little epoxy in the threaded hole before you 'tighten' it up.
@@3ftDeepChannel Thanks, was thinking the same. Will tackle tomorrow. Appreciate the videos!
ANYONE KNOW IF I CAN SPRAY A LUBRICANT LIKE 6-56 ON THE START/STOP BUTTONS AND OTHER CONTROL BUTTONS THAT ARE WEARING A BIT???
We usually use a rubber cleaner, or soap and water. If they get worn down too much, you can buy replacement buttons
Why you using permanent when you said to use xps grease
jetguy1205 We don't always use the recommended products, but I always like to include the recommended (by Sea-Doo) products in our videos. Thanks for your comment.