How To Remove And Install A Sea Doo Personal Watercraft Jet Ski iBR Gate Assembly, Generation 3
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ต.ค. 2024
- This video shows the step-by-step removal and installation of the Sea-Doo generation 3 iBR gate assembly on a 2018 Sea Doo RXP-X 300 personal watercraft jet ski.
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Filmed with a Canon 70D camera in the great Pacific Northwest.
Music: Song For Michael, by Magic In The Other
You Sir deserve a big hug!
Someone crashed into my RXT X while on a trailer from behind and I need to replace my IBR
That’s brutal! Glad we can be of some help, though. Good luck with your repair.
Very happy to find this version for removing the IBR assembly in order to do the jet pump inspection. This is the same procedure for my 2016 GTI 155 Limited. Worked great and now just waiting for the new hardware to arrive. Excellent videos!
Thanks, musicduke!
Just did this today , as the boot on the impeller came loose and slid up the shaft. Thanks to you I fixed it without any issues.
Glad we could help. Safe riding!
Many thanks - your video helped me to remove a rock that got where it didnt belong. Being able to move the ibr plate out of the way gave me access to do much more then with it in the middle.
That’s what we love to hear! Glad we could help. Safe riding.
Thank u you u saved me big money 💰 from marina prices and might be best knowlegable video for every seadoo lover cause everyone is going to get a rock or debri in prop
Thanks, Martin!
Love your channel! Very easy to understand!
Thanks for keeping us motivated!
Thanks
Great video as usual 👍 Thank you !!!!!!
Nice to see a video on this. My wife's ski has that system on it and I had yet to read up on it. Can I request a video on how you transfer your ski to the storage cart you made and one on proper compression testing of the 4 stroke engine? and what the values should be?
Thanks for the kind words. We'll keep your suggestion in mind regarding the compression video, but there's nothing tricky about it. You just take out one of the spark plugs, screw in the compression tester, and crank it in "drown" mode (i.e. with the throttle fully depressed) for a few seconds. The compression value (I don't have it handy) isn't as important as ensuring that all 3 cylinders are the same (plus or minus a few PSI). We do have a video on transferring the ski. You can find it on this video starting at 3:12 th-cam.com/video/uxyfqDPoQ2o/w-d-xo.html.
Super okej
Tack!
I have been hearing about IBR failures, if this happens while 25miles offshore if there a way to get it out of neutral? Can I just Brake it or do you need a tow
When it fails, nothing seems to help. The good news is we both had permanent recovery of the iBR on its own. The bad news is mine took a few hours each time, but Chris’ took 3 days. I can’t recall if they were stuck up, down or in neutral when they failed, but we couldn’t operate them until they resolved themselves. Good luck.
Hi. you can briefly explain the difference between a sea-doo gtr 230 2020 to a rxp 300. if both have a 1630cc engine. Thanks for your time
Mainly the hull, intercooler and supercharger. The hull on the RXP-X 300 is more racing oriented; the intercooler on the RXP-X is larger; the supercharger on the RXP-X 300 is maintenance free.
Do you have the part number for the 4 retaining screws and 2 L bracket nuts?
They may differ between machines, so I suggest you use Sea-Doo's parts catalog to determine what you need: shop.sea-doo.com/ca/en/shop/sales/parts/
Thanks for another fine Video. What are the "Key Differences" between the Various iBR Generations and what years did the Generations change? Randy AKA randog311
The main difference between Gen 1 and Gen 2 is how it's mounted. Gen 1 is mounted into the hull, which is a very poor design in our opinion. Gen 2 iBR is not mounted into the hull and is much easier to remove and install. The Gen 3 changes seem more cosmetic to us although we're sure there's some engineering reason for it (maybe the actuator is improved). We don't know the year changes, but I can say that my 2012 GTR 215 had a Gen 1 iBR, my 2018 RXP-X 300 has a Gen 2 and Chris' 2022 RXT-X 300 has a Gen 3. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel Thanks for the quick reply. I'm assuming that my 2015 GTX iS 260 Limited has an iBR of the Gen 1 variety. I currently have around 186 Hours on the Ski and I've had the Jet Pump out a few times, I haven't found it to be all that difficult. This Ski is far easier to work on than the Audi's I worked on over the past few decades. Randy AKA randog311 (Retired Professional Wrench)
Hello Randy, I believe that machine has the generation 1 iBR. You need to be careful when removing or tightening the screws that go into the hull, as the inserts that fits into the fibreglass have been known to fail when torqued too much. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel As I stated previously, I've had the Jet Pump out a few times not to mention that i have replaced the Carbon Seal and the Bellows for a 2021 300 Ski as well. I appreciate your concern and will take extra care the next time the iBR comes out. I began Wrenching Professionally a couple weeks following my 18th Birthday at a Mazda Dealership in 1974, I was hired and trained to rebuild Rotary Engines. Much of my career I spent working at Audi Dealerships. Over many decades I've acquired "a feel" for how tight a Fastener should tightened.
Great video as usual 👍
Thanks!
I think this is the same set up as my 2019 Fish Pro. I'm wondering which torque wrench(es) would be needed for this job? There are a lot on your tools page & I don't want to get something not needed. Thanks,
You'll need a mid-range one like this: www.amazon.com/CDI-602NMRMHSS-Torque-8-Inch-Ratcheting/dp/B002IARRSS/ref=as_sl_pc_tf_til?tag=3ftdspor-20&linkCode=w00&linkId=c40d32a149c7c903b7b749a1536ba413&creativeASIN=B002IARRSS&th=1. CDI make good quality tools. It's a great idea to have 3 torque wrenches: a light range, mid range and heavy-duty range. I use the heavy duty one for tightening the lug nuts on my car wheel, etc. Good luck!
Hi -
Would you happen to have the same type of video but strictly for a 2021 GTI model ??
(not sure which generation that would be, but the rear-end is a bit different than what I’m noticing on this video with your 2018)
sorry, not yet. That is the newest machine we have an example of.
Great as usual!
You have used the Loctite 243 instead of 271 - is there a reason for it?
or would you recommend the 243 over 271?
Loctite 271 is used when you don't expect to remove the bolt again for a very long time (it's considerably stronger than Loctite 243). As you're supposed to do this procedure every year, however, we use Loctite 243 which has been good enough for us in other situations. You'll need to decide what to use. Good luck.
3ftDeep thanks a lot! The only thing I’m afraid of using 271 is that I break the bolts when trying to open them...
Heat would help but I guess the jet hull doesn’t like that...
When there's potentially rust involved, that's always an issue. The worst part is corrosion on bolts that go into the hull. When you try to remove those bolts, there's the danger of loosening the hull inserts ...then you're in trouble.
On the IBR Guard piece ….is it really necessary to use Locktite 5900 around the screw holes, or could we use any; Waterproof clear silicone sealant ?
Waiting for reply ?? Thanks
That’s what the service manual states. We went out and bought the product and that’s what we use, so we can’t recommend any alternatives unfortunately. It’s up to you. Good luck.
We don’t have loctite in Australia we have crocodiles and koala and snakes but no lotion
Frank! Is that you?
Have you figured out a lubrication point to get rid of that dang steering squeak???
Dang nammit, we forgot when we were in there! That is the most annoying squeak. You'd think BRP would’ve worked it out of the system by now!
I did. Pull the four screws that hold on the top of the mirrors and cluster. Lift the rubber flap and loosen the two bolts on the steering stem retaining ring. Lift the column out of the bushings and lube with Molykote 111 or BRP Triple Guard. Not only gets rid of the squeak, but you will think that you have power steering.
Thanks for the tip, Tracy!
Hey is there a way to change sacrificial anodes without removing the IBR?
Yes. With many models you can remove sacrificial anodes without removing the IBR. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel I have the fish pro trophy, and i ran out of time but the one screw for one of the anodes ran into the pump nozzle, if I turn the handlebars will it turn that part of the nozzle and free the screw?
@ekendra21 I don’t fully understand what you mean, but I suggest using a flash light to help you determine how to get the screw out. A stiff wire with a hook at the end also comes in very handy. Good luck.
Getting the IBR control arm bolt started during the reinstall has been a real challenge. Any tips?
What do you mean by getting it “started”?
@@3ftDeepChannel can seem to get the bolt lined up and threaded in the hole on the bucket. Almost seems like the arm is extended slightly which is not allowing me to align the bolt through the hole.
@chucknjen1 I think I know what you’re talking about, and ran into the same problem the first time I did it. Go through my video again slowly and watch every detail, as you may not actually have everything lined up. Don’t force it in. It should go in without much effort. Also, make sure you’re not cross-threading the bolt. The actuator does have some play, so that may also help you out. Good luck.
@3ftDeepChannel I almost gave up and decided to put the ski in IBR override again. The arm retracted slightly when it was engaged before I did anything ...just enough to align everything and get the screw installed. Wierd, but it worked.😅
Great to hear! Thanks for the update.
I am having trouble removing the ibr gate to get to the jet pump. How did you remove the bushings? I feel like that’s why it won’t come out.
I meant to post this to your other video with the older generation sea doo.
It’s important to take out each bolt in the sequence that is shown if you have the same iBR as we are working on in the video. You might need to move the iBR a little bit to get some space, but the sequence of removal is important. Good luck.
Check your other comment for your our reply.
Did the ibr go back to normal by itself?
Yes.
Is it mandatory to replace screws & washers?
Only if the service manual says so. We always state what needs to be done according to our machine's service manual. Thanks for your comment.
Hi there… I have another question, when reassembling the IBR reverse gate and the medal nozzle piece that swivels …what are the torque tightening specs for those bolts ??
It depends what iBR you have. Check this video out for torques on the earlier iBR: th-cam.com/video/z9DEe9jI4Vg/w-d-xo.html
@@3ftDeepChannel I have a later IBR, we’re talking a 2021 GTI SE 170 … the reverse bucket (the black metal bucket) that has two bolts on each side, the bucket pivots up and down, however I’m not sure what the torque wrench settings are on the two side bolts that hold it in
Hmm. I’m not sure what two bolts you’re referring to. Do you have a Gen 4 iBR? I’m having an issue finding which iBR is on your machine.
@@3ftDeepChannel Well if I have a 2021 ….it would mean I probably have the latest version.🤷♂️
This ski is only a year old.
Thank you in advance ✌🏼
Sorry, we don’t have a service manual that covers the most recent iBR. You may have to purchase one, if no one else has the answer to your question. Good Luck.
how is the ibr working without any eletronics
There is an electronic actuator that moves back and forth, lifting and lowering the iBR.
would love full pump/prop removal and install on this model please
How about this: th-cam.com/video/axU-9Wi_Y-E/w-d-xo.html
@@3ftDeepChannel awesome!
Just wondering why you do the base plate screws before the other four screws on the IBR removal? Seems the base plate screw would go last ?
We just find it easier that way. That’s also as per the Service Manual.
Some of the torque setting seem way off.the steering bolt would never go that high without stripping the threads
Make sure you're not confusing inch pounds for foot pounds. Read very carefully.
Hi what is the cost of this work, just the lavor no parts?
It's about USD$15 for the Loctite, but it can be used for many other jobs, plus Sea-Doo advises that you replace a few bolts, which comes to about USD$20 and you'll need some jet pump grease. A tube of that will cost you about $20 but will last you for years if you're just topping up the jet pump. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel sorry for my English I'm trying to ask the opposite, I want to know the price for your work labor
your English was fine. I just mis-lread your question. Normally, we do this work on our own machines or on friends’ machines and do not charge any labor. The dealer only charges between $100 and $120 per hour.
@@3ftDeepChannel thanks for your answer I'll have some fun, and now i have an idea about the price. I'm in Costa Rica and don't have much information. blessings!! 🤙
I got it off but I can’t get it back on Frank
You have to watch the video to the end.
Does anyone know how to remove the ibr actuator?
Sorry, that’s one of the few videos we haven’t made yet!
how many anodes are on the ski?
Two in the newer skis: one on the pump, and one on the riding plate.
What if my ibr wont move even in the override mode?
Does it do its normal movements when you run the engine and rev it?
@@3ftDeepChannel ibr started to move once the ski was running.. I received a c2101 code & ibr light on while riding. Then the ski started beeping at me and pretty much lost all R and N.
First make sure there's nothing physically blocking the iBR. If this is confirmed, I wouldn't do anything for now. Both Chris and I had this same problem (me for a few hours, and Chris for about 3 days). Right when we thought we would have to take it in to the dealer (they were both on warranty at the time), the problem magically resolved itself. We can't explain it, but they both just started working. Chris never had it happen again (2 years later), and i had it 2 or 3 times, each time for a few hours. Try unplugging the battery for a few hours, starting it up and shutting it down, and riding it (if you can safely) for a few hours and see if it resolves itself. If it doesn't after 3 or 4 days you may need to replace the actuator. Good luck and keep us posted.
@@3ftDeepChannel thanks alot for the info. Im installing a new battery just to make sure, since this problem seemed to start with the new one. Even though it reads 13V. I will keep you updated. 👍🏼
Any luck with your iBR issue?
Is this the same process for a 2018 rxtx300?
I think they used the generation 2 iBR on that machine, but we have a video for that one as well. Please check our earlier videos. Good luck.
Hey guys my IBR works in service mode but when you are on the lake and riding it it is always in the down position and It will not trim to the up position. And I have no warning lights on ant help on advise would be appreciated
Does it trim up and down with the iBR override function?
@@3ftDeepChannel yes it does go up and down
In the override function
If you are running it out of water and you give it some gas, will the IBR will go up then?
@@3ftDeepChannel yes it does go up and down when it is in the over ride position
How do you perform IBR auto calibration?
You need BUDS2 software for that, unfortunately. I'm not sure if the CanDoo Pro has that functionality. If you're interested, you should contact them. We've replaced them without the auto calibration and it seems to work fine. We just can't endorse that methodology and have to refer to the Service Manual instructions. Good luck.
Is there a way to perform the IBR auto calibration without the Buds 2?
Unfortunately, not that we’ve discovered.
@3ftDeepChannel , can I borrow your Buds 2 lol. Without that, I can't do what y'all do in this video. I'm just trying to replace both the sacrificial anodes.
Hey, we don’t have a Buds 2, either. No calibration and it works just fine.
@3ftDeepChannel ,ok, so according to the manual, I need the Buds 2 to do the the calibration. How did y'all do it? What am I missing and what do I need to do. Thanks in advance. It's just conflicting info, that's all.
You’re not missing anything. The service manual says to do a calibration after removal, but as we don’t have the equipment to do the calibration, we didn’t do it. It still works fine though, without the calibration. I’m sure there will be some machines that don’t work as well if not calibrated after removal, but ours (and probably lots of other ones) worked fine without it.