Dave, This task was well covered by your experience, product knowledge and even a good explanation or wood fiber. The cut edges and end fibers are very well explained. It is human nature to rush this step similar to finish painting. I would recommend once the color is chosen and sealant apply, for most, plan on re-applying sealant once per year, as wood expands & contracts to humidity and temperatures, cracks form. It require way more attention than a picnic bench and maintenance. Not politically correct now, but my 1965 C10 Apache delivered diesel, oil and carried waste oil off site from Dozers, Scrapers, Backhoes, etc but spills soaked the old growth Southern Pine GM used for truck wood floors. It had a perfect color but no rotted spots in the years I owned it. There are to types of finishes, soaking and film types. That’s it. Very good info Dave and great video presentation showing options, technical and best practices, for the best looking and longest lasting project we can make. One note only; Factory cut wood is seldom 90 degrees straight cut on either end. So use a framing square or cross-cut saw and take an 1/8” of the end to square it up before cutting the other end…as long as the the wood package has enough to sacrifice! DK, ASE master tech, retired.
Today was the first time I found your channel and immediately subscribed! About 30 years ago I begged and plead with my wife for a '60's chevy to restore and she finally agreed I media blasted all of my body panels I etched all of them, primer, paint putty, more primer, finally the paint! Now the new wood bed kit.......uh......I would have celebrated the internet and a show exactly like yours because it would have saved a ton of labor! I hope your channel inspires folks to restore mare of these gorgeous trucks and get 'em on the road where they all belong! Great channel and thanks for sharing your work!
Catching up on your videos, all your videos are helpful in restoring these trucks, I have a 66 C-10 , restored a few years ago, all your videos helped in finishing, thanks to you and BROTHERS for sharing these videos.
Dave you have taught me that everything has to be just right not just ok. I will not start a project until I check on your videos how to. Then I follow his instructions.
I just bought a 1957 Chevy 3200. I am excited to do some of the work myself and your videos simply have been helpful in the research before I bought my truck.
David, All great tips. What I might add is to pay attention to your coating temperatures especially if they have been stored in a cool area. Also, when using a brush to apply a finish, stain or paint, I raise the boards off the table just enough to run the brush along the bottom edge in case I missed a run. I've used small pieces of 2 x 4 and even empty plastic pudding cups. There are even "professional " risers you can buy.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV Seat covers on the older trucks. From what i can tell the new covers are retained different than the older? (62 c10). No hog holes on the 62. No instructions with cover either
@@turboflush there's no hog holes on the post '62 covers either, the hog rings simply grab on to the seamed edge of the vinyl. On ours there's a piece of plastic material sewn in so the rings dont tear through. We actually have a video of installing a seat cover on a '63. It was part of our project Eighteen8.
Wow, that was a great example of how to do it right. I find that when boards are laying flat during clear coat it’s best to stand then up. Gravity allows the clear coat by its density to drop in the the wood grain pushing air out. If you stand the wood up, this doesn’t occur. Just a tip
This is exactly the info I need, and so well presented, but I have a few questions. I am recently widowed, trying to finish a 1950 GMC pickup that my husband inherited from his dad. My husband wanted it pretty much original and not-so-perfect, and I want to honor his wishes. He had it painted the original Ferrara blue color (darker than pictures show), and I am now trying to finish the bed. I've got pine boards (because oak wasn't used back then, I understand), cold rolled steel strips (definitely not stainless), and zinc-plated nuts, bolts, and washers (which will stay that way). The cold rolled steel strips have an adhesive-type coating to adhere to paint, and I think I want them painted a matte black (to prevent rust). So I want to finish the pine boards with maybe a darker than natural Minwax Wood Finish (so the contrast with the black strips and the dark blue paint will not be so great), followed by the spar urethane by brush. At that point we (I have help) will put it all together. My help wants to then spray clearcoat on the whole thing, metal and wood, only on top. My questions are these: 1) Does the color palette I've described sound decent for what I am trying to achieve? 2) Should the spar urethane be water- or oil-based? 3) Can clearcoat go on top of spar urethane? 3) Will even just one coat of clearcoat make it too glossy? (I don't want glossy.) 4) What is the lowest temperature at which the staining and sealing can be done? Thanks for any answers I can get!
I prefer to do a distressed bed. I pounded bolts. Horseshoes. Nails. Chain. Threw in a couple of Horseshoes hot.nuts bolts. Scratches and then I stained the wood. Gave it the used and abused looks awesome 👌
Attention to details, and patience, payoff big time, and you remind us to always keep checking for square and gaps, sometimes we forget , get excited to finish quickly and end up with a nasty mess! Thanks for your to detail reminder
Dave, Any video of the Fleetside/tailgate corner going together. I am taking mine apart to replace sills and cannot get my corner apart. I have removed all the bolts I can find and checked for welds...
Dave, I love your videos and your humor. one question, when assembling the bed, is it better to paint the parts first before assembling or paint when fully assembled? Thanks. BTW, I have a 63 Fleetside.
It really depends on what you're going for in the finished truck. We've done it both ways depending on time and target outcome, but typically you would paint the parts individually if you were going for a higher quality finished product.
Thanks for the tips and tricks, just a question. What is the best type of wood to use for a truck bed and where are the best places to get that wood when living in Canada? Thanks
Any hardwood will work for a bed floor. We sell Pine and Oak which both look great and hold up well. Canada isn't a problem, its just not always cheap to ship stuff up there. www.brotherstrucks.com
My firs time on your channel and very informative and inspirational. I need to understand your concept on wood protection after staining. What exactly are the steps? Thanks 🙏🏾🇿🇦
The options for sealing after staining are detailed in this video at 22:00. It's basically just choosing your preferred seal type and then applying it as the directions of the sealant indicate. Most often, people pick their sealant type based on the options they have at home for applying it, ie: paint gun, brush, rollers, etc.
I’m working on the woods as suggested by Dave with a clear top coat… now I need to figure out how to make those holes for the wood carriage bolts and to make them look recessed into the wood. Any suggestions?
What I'd like to know is if you have a survivor truck with and nice patina to the paint and want to preserve it. A nice new shiny wood bed wouldn't look good. (In my opinion.) I want to know what wood would you use with out having to stain it to put in that would patina up nice to match with the rest of the truck?
Is there a specific type of stain that needs to be used, when doing the automotive clear coat, also will the wood expand and contract and crack the clear? Great video !!
Our wood is dry, so once sealed it will not expand and contract due to the lack of moisture in the wood. No special stain is necessary before the automotive grade clear.
Dave, can you make a video for the replacement of the two angle strips on 67-72 step side trucks? This is the worst project I have tackled. There has to be a better way......has to be!
What type of wood is generally used for these beds. I have a 1949 Chevy that is in the thinking stages of restoring. I have the capability to mill my own lumber, just unsure of the species.
Ive got boards that have been stained for a couple weeks. Can i just clean them and clear coat them with a urethane automotive clear? No need to scuff or anything?
Hear me out black truck ebony stained pine applied with sock polyurethane applied with little roller to force air bubbles out works great no power tools yer welcome
Wood ALWAYS expands and contracts in its life, especially outside... no mater if it's dried or not. Even dried wood will absorb moisture and expand slightly. Even though automotive clear coat has wonderful weather protecting abilities, it cannot move and stretch with the wood as it expands and contracts. Unless you're planning to Store it in your Climate controlled environment Permanently, I'd recommend the spar urethane as the best protection. The spar aspect makes the finish much more pliable and able to stretch with the wood, thereby keeping it sealed from excessive moisture.
@@MsLIz55 I still Wouldn't recommend it. The wood is going to move and if you put any finish on top of it That doesn't have the flexible aspect It's simply not going to maintain that tight seal without being able to slightly stretch. It's just the characteristic of wood to constantly move a little , especially when placed in outdoor temperate conditions. If you kept It indoors under climate control At all times then you can successfully get by with putting a automotive urethane over wood. But it's effective protection is reduced under changing outdoor climate conditions. And even spar urethane has it limitations in continuous outdoor conditions... but it's simply the most adequate product available for such
I’ve watched lots of TH-cam videos and seen people who are very meticulous in their presentations but this guy is next level. Excellent job!!!
Always helpful to watch a BROTHERS Truck Parts video before jumping in!!! Thanks David!
Our pleasure man!
Dave, This task was well covered by your experience, product knowledge and even a good explanation or wood fiber. The cut edges and end fibers are very well explained. It is human nature to rush this step similar to finish painting.
I would recommend once the color is chosen and sealant apply, for most, plan on re-applying sealant once per year, as wood expands & contracts to humidity and temperatures, cracks form. It require way more attention than a picnic bench and maintenance.
Not politically correct now, but my 1965 C10 Apache delivered diesel, oil and carried waste oil off site from Dozers, Scrapers, Backhoes, etc but spills soaked the old growth Southern Pine GM used for truck wood floors. It had a perfect color but no rotted spots in the years I owned it. There are to types of finishes, soaking and film types. That’s it.
Very good info Dave and great video presentation showing options, technical and best practices, for the best looking and longest lasting project we can make.
One note only; Factory cut wood is seldom 90 degrees straight cut on either end. So use a framing square or cross-cut saw and take an 1/8” of the end to square it up before cutting the other end…as long as the the wood package has enough to sacrifice!
DK, ASE master tech, retired.
Today was the first time I found your channel and immediately subscribed! About 30 years ago I begged and plead with my wife for a '60's chevy to restore and she finally agreed I media blasted all of my body panels I etched all of them, primer, paint putty, more primer, finally the paint! Now the new wood bed kit.......uh......I would have celebrated the internet and a show exactly like yours because it would have saved a ton of labor! I hope your channel inspires folks to restore mare of these gorgeous trucks and get 'em on the road where they all belong! Great channel and thanks for sharing your work!
Great story! Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Enjoy watching Dave W. OLD SCHOOL MASTER TEACHER FOR OLD SCHOOL CLASSICS
Catching up on your videos, all your videos are helpful in restoring these trucks, I have a 66 C-10 , restored a few years ago, all your videos helped in finishing, thanks to you and BROTHERS for sharing these videos.
Dave you have taught me that everything has to be just right not just ok.
I will not start a project until I check on your videos how to. Then I follow his instructions.
I just bought a 1957 Chevy 3200. I am excited to do some of the work myself and your videos simply have been helpful in the research before I bought my truck.
Right on man, glad we could help!
David, you tips are so timely, good and labor saving! Thank you for your thoroughness!
Our pleasure!
Wish u guys @ Brothers Truck was back on tv again this helps alot especially 11:24 see ur using Rigid drill /impact aswell good choice .
Thanks Malik!
David, All great tips. What I might add is to pay attention to your coating temperatures especially if they have been stored in a cool area. Also, when using a brush to apply a finish, stain or paint, I raise the boards off the table just enough to run the brush along the bottom edge in case I missed a run. I've used small pieces of 2 x 4 and even empty plastic pudding cups. There are even "professional " risers you can buy.
Great tips!
Love you brother.. is a placer learning and watching your videos .. thank you..👍🙏🙏🔥🔥
Thanks for watching!
i have used a epoxy coat with a light dusting of sand for grip so things don't slide around in the bed of the truck
Very nice job,Thanks for your skill s !
Great video David
on my 48 GMC i took a torch and gave a light burn which brought out the look of the grain, then clear coated it.
Wow! Awesome idea!
I love the series, wish you had a series on the 1947-54 Chevy or GMC .
What would you like to see on the 47-54? We do videos on those all the time and have plenty of content already available.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV
Seat covers on the older trucks.
From what i can tell the new covers are retained different than the older? (62 c10). No hog holes on the 62. No instructions with cover either
@@turboflush there's no hog holes on the post '62 covers either, the hog rings simply grab on to the seamed edge of the vinyl. On ours there's a piece of plastic material sewn in so the rings dont tear through. We actually have a video of installing a seat cover on a '63. It was part of our project Eighteen8.
@@turboflush They use a clip.
A small c clip about half inch long and
About 1/8
It clips on the edge of the metal
My first time to see one of your videos and I’m very impressed! Thanks
Thanks for watching!
You are correct - l need this! Thanks.
You are so welcome!
Wow, that was a great example of how to do it right.
I find that when boards are laying flat during clear coat it’s best to stand then up.
Gravity allows the clear coat by its density to drop in the the wood grain pushing air out.
If you stand the wood up, this doesn’t occur.
Just a tip
Excellent, thanks!
Yes thank you sir 🙏🏿
Our pleasure!
This is exactly the info I need, and so well presented, but I have a few questions. I am recently widowed, trying to finish a 1950 GMC pickup that my husband inherited from his dad. My husband wanted it pretty much original and not-so-perfect, and I want to honor his wishes. He had it painted the original Ferrara blue color (darker than pictures show), and I am now trying to finish the bed. I've got pine boards (because oak wasn't used back then, I understand), cold rolled steel strips (definitely not stainless), and zinc-plated nuts, bolts, and washers (which will stay that way). The cold rolled steel strips have an adhesive-type coating to adhere to paint, and I think I want them painted a matte black (to prevent rust). So I want to finish the pine boards with maybe a darker than natural Minwax Wood Finish (so the contrast with the black strips and the dark blue paint will not be so great), followed by the spar urethane by brush. At that point we (I have help) will put it all together. My help wants to then spray clearcoat on the whole thing, metal and wood, only on top. My questions are these: 1) Does the color palette I've described sound decent for what I am trying to achieve? 2) Should the spar urethane be water- or oil-based? 3) Can clearcoat go on top of spar urethane? 3) Will even just one coat of clearcoat make it too glossy? (I don't want glossy.) 4) What is the lowest temperature at which the staining and sealing can be done? Thanks for any answers I can get!
I prefer to do a distressed bed.
I pounded bolts. Horseshoes. Nails. Chain. Threw in a couple of Horseshoes hot.nuts bolts. Scratches and then I stained the wood. Gave it the used and abused looks awesome 👌
That sounds cool! Great creativity!
Attention to details, and patience, payoff big time, and you remind us to always keep checking for square and gaps, sometimes we forget , get excited to finish quickly and end up with a nasty mess!
Thanks for your to detail reminder
Thanks for the comment!
Great video it gave me some ideas for my 68
Right on!
This video is amazing
Excellent!
I'm using Brazilian Rosewood that I milled in my cabinet shop. I'm finishing it with Tung oil (drying oil). It takes about 45 days to do the finish.
Sounds like it's going to be amazing!
Great video, what type of sand paper to use in between clear coat or urethane clear coats? Brushing in coats! No paint gun! Thanks!!
You can use a dry paper or a wet/dry paper between 200-300 grit
Dave, Any video of the Fleetside/tailgate corner going together. I am taking mine apart to replace sills and cannot get my corner apart. I have removed all the bolts I can find and checked for welds...
There are two small tack welds in the corner at the bottom of the stake pocket. You have to grind them off.
Dave,
I love your videos and your humor. one question, when assembling the bed, is it better to paint the parts first before assembling or paint when fully assembled? Thanks. BTW, I have a 63 Fleetside.
It really depends on what you're going for in the finished truck. We've done it both ways depending on time and target outcome, but typically you would paint the parts individually if you were going for a higher quality finished product.
Thanks for the tips and tricks, just a question. What is the best type of wood to use for a truck bed and where are the best places to get that wood when living in Canada? Thanks
Any hardwood will work for a bed floor. We sell Pine and Oak which both look great and hold up well. Canada isn't a problem, its just not always cheap to ship stuff up there. www.brotherstrucks.com
Working on my square body now
Have fun with the project!
Excellent however is there a sheet metal option?
Absolutely! Check out this link to our website: www.brotherstrucks.com/Steel-Bed-Floors-Hardware/products/286/
My firs time on your channel and very informative and inspirational. I need to understand your concept on wood protection after staining. What exactly are the steps?
Thanks 🙏🏾🇿🇦
The options for sealing after staining are detailed in this video at 22:00. It's basically just choosing your preferred seal type and then applying it as the directions of the sealant indicate. Most often, people pick their sealant type based on the options they have at home for applying it, ie: paint gun, brush, rollers, etc.
"... every time you do, a mechanic finds a tool he lost." Had to subscribe after that one.
Classic Dave.
I’m working on the woods as suggested by Dave with a clear top coat… now I need to figure out how to make those holes for the wood carriage bolts and to make them look recessed into the wood. Any suggestions?
www.mar-k.com/_assets/images/instructions/mtgholes_3-8_ofst.pdf
Great video what size was the taper drill bit?
We used a 3/8"
Awesome tip on drilling the holes in the wood Dave!! Good how to vid!!
What I'd like to know is if you have a survivor truck with and nice patina to the paint and want to preserve it. A nice new shiny wood bed wouldn't look good. (In my opinion.) I want to know what wood would you use with out having to stain it to put in that would patina up nice to match with the rest of the truck?
Any would that isn't protected will patina quickly. The softer the wood the faster it will age.
Is there a specific type of stain that needs to be used, when doing the automotive clear coat, also will the wood expand and contract and crack the clear?
Great video !!
Our wood is dry, so once sealed it will not expand and contract due to the lack of moisture in the wood. No special stain is necessary before the automotive grade clear.
How many coats of automotive clear coat do you spray?
Typically 1-3 coats.
You guys don’t make a metal floor replacement for a 1972 c10 step side?
No sir, no metal floors for the stepside.
David can u spray the wood with bed liner and will it stick
Yes, that's also an option!
Dave, can you make a video for the replacement of the two angle strips on 67-72 step side trucks? This is the worst project I have tackled. There has to be a better way......has to be!
What type of wood is generally used for these beds. I have a 1949 Chevy that is in the thinking stages of restoring. I have the capability to mill my own lumber, just unsure of the species.
Any type of hardwood will work.
Is it better to install the bed wood before painting your truck or after?
We would recommend after you paint.
How do these wood beds drain water?
Hi, do you offer a kit for a 91 chevy 1500 short bed?
Ive got boards that have been stained for a couple weeks. Can i just clean them and clear coat them with a urethane automotive clear? No need to scuff or anything?
You're probably ok just shooting a clear now, however a slight scuff won't hurt just to be sure you've got a good surface to stick to.
Can you apply bedliner on the bottom of the wood so you only have to paint one once?
Anyway you want to seal it is ok, so yeah, spray-on bedlliner would work too.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV oh ok thanks.
Have you ever tried burning the wood
What type of stain did you use oil based or lacquer based
The stain that was used is an oil base.
Maybe I missed it but what are you using to seal the wood?
The stain as well as the top coat are the sealers.
Help. Looking for brothers you tube where truck bed is assembled on a 2x4 frame before install......
th-cam.com/video/dxlzZaVCAYA/w-d-xo.html
Can I add the Clear Coat with a paint brush or do I have to use an air gun ?
You can 100% add a clear with a brush if you want to.
You can see Dave using a brush in this video to apply a clear coat at 24:40
I don’t know what to use to repair my old wood on my truck .
Spar varnish
Teak oil
Tung oil
How thick are the boards Dave?
Roughly 3/4"
Hear me out black truck ebony stained pine applied with sock polyurethane applied with little roller to force air bubbles out works great no power tools yer welcome
Wood ALWAYS expands and contracts in its life, especially outside... no mater if it's dried or not. Even dried wood will absorb moisture and expand slightly. Even though automotive clear coat has wonderful weather protecting abilities, it cannot move and stretch with the wood as it expands and contracts. Unless you're planning to Store it in your Climate controlled environment Permanently, I'd recommend the spar urethane as the best protection. The spar aspect makes the finish much more pliable and able to stretch with the wood, thereby keeping it sealed from excessive moisture.
What if you use the spar urethane on top of the stain and then clearcoat that? Would that be bad?
@@MsLIz55 I still Wouldn't recommend it. The wood is going to move and if you put any finish on top of it That doesn't have the flexible aspect It's simply not going to maintain that tight seal without being able to slightly stretch. It's just the characteristic of wood to constantly move a little , especially when placed in outdoor temperate conditions. If you kept It indoors under climate control At all times then you can successfully get by with putting a automotive urethane over wood. But it's effective protection is reduced under changing outdoor climate conditions. And even spar urethane has it limitations in continuous outdoor conditions... but it's simply the most adequate product available for such
@@hotrodswoodshed7405, that makes sense to me. And less work is always better in my opinion!
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