Thank you, I bought your kits and did all the same mods. The car runs amazing now, even starts easier with the smog pump gone. Engine bay so much cleaner and easier to access components.
Did this on my 87 TA. Did some before and after temps, after a 30 minute drive the throttle body was 20-30 degrees cooler and the runners were around 10 degrees cooler.
Yeah, too bad nobody is putting these cars on a dyno to see the results. I have an old vette performance book which did some mods and had before/after dyno tests which was nice.
I was watching a guy couple years back on TH-cam that did a homemade bypass and the way he did it was he use the two-way valve and a t connection on the other end so that during the summer months he could turn the valve to where it would bypass the intake and during the summer, then turn the valve the other direction for winter driving. I wish I had thought to save the video, he did a good job and it looked good. The two way valve and T connector were brass so they should last.
My '89 doesn't have the metal line where the straight piece of the bypass kit connects too?? mine's all heater hose from throttle body to firewall!! looks like I'm going to need to put a union in after all :( ... your videos kick a$$!! don't get me wrong..i ordered the hose, without visually looking at mine... Ohhh well.. still going to be cleaner!!!! Keep'em coming!!!
I also relocated the air temp sensor up to before the throttle body and that sensor is in the plenum by the EGR valve. EDIT: I should say I deleted that EGR too. 1985 and doesn't make the check engine light come on.
Does the temp sensor you replaced have anything to do with the pcm turning the cooling fans on and off? And is there a coolant temp sensor that would turn them on earlier as mine doesn't seem to come on at all! Lol so I just ran a switch to the fan relays beside the upper drivers side rad and into the drivers compartment where I can manually control the cooling fans when I see it getting anywhere above 3/8's..
The pcm controls the temp at which the fan turns on. However, if you have the auxiliary fan located in front of the radiator, you can get a temp sender that will turn that one on at a st temperature. I bought one on eBay to control that. I also purchased a prom that turns the main fan on at 180. The 160 degree thermostat will open sooner. However, if it’s cold outside and you are driving at a decent clip, you will maintain a cooler running engine. If your cooling system very efficient, your engine may stay at 160. Once you idle down, the engine will warm up to whatever the fan is set to turn on. I hope that helps
Just bought a 85 vette with tuned port. It runs terrible won't idle spits and carries on until the car reaches 180 degrees temp then it runs great. I checked the cold start valve and the coonector and it was fine. Any other ideas thanks.
Good deal One question -_- I probably know the Answer?? With your smog pump delete video -_- can change the bypass coolant system at same time ????? Somewhat mechanically inclined I am
How expensive are the replacement electronics for the c4 cars, ik the 92 to 94 ecms have connector pin issues, buy I like the l98 cars so, I'm looking for a 90 to 91 convertible, any advice when it comes to this issue would be great thanks
@@coltonbelvin2820 Cooler thermostat doesn't actually make your car run cooler. It just opens earlier and makes your motor rise to operational temp slower. It does regulate the heat going up and down though. Eventually your motor will heat up to what it will no matter of the thermostat. Too cool of a thermostat also effects how quickly the car will go into a closed loop operation (ie. start adjusting fuel mix with sensors instead of running from a preset table).A stock thermostat is 192°, IMO a 180° is a good compromise - not too cool but opens little earlier. The cooling system as whole will determine the max temp the motor reaches. Clean system, especially the radiator and working fans are the most important things. You can lower fan turn on temps by installing a low temp fan switch or programming the ECM. These things work a bit different in early C4's vs. later models.
Thanks for the great video, I didn't quite get what the advantage of the bypass? Also, can you add a quick 20 seconds to this video on how you added the plugs? Did you use a sealant? etc.
Thank you. It just takes away hot coolant away from the throttle body allowing cooler air to enter. The caps just slide on . You technically dont need them it just looks nicer. Thanks
the advantage is you delete alot of junk hose and fittings to clean up under the hood . But this delete does not do that the hose and junk is still there. Do it right with the TPIS delete housing for the throttle body. Its a direct bolt-on. But If you live in Alaska or Iceland warming the throttle body with hot water makes sense.
As I understand it, the throttle body coolant hose takes the warm coolant directly from the engine as it is at the end of the coolant loop and thus the warmest part, therefore warming the throttlebody and air going through it. Colder air has more oxygen, so bypassing this coolant line keeps the throttle body colder and makes the engine run better; more power. I'm not sure about how to add the plugs.
at WOT the engines sucks air at like 200cfm I don’t think it has time to warm up from the TB even though it warms up the entire manifold. But the car seems to heat soak for some reason
No go. another half-way delete job. Buy the TPIS coolant delete housing its a direct bolt-onto the bottom of the throttle body and then get rid of all the plumbing plugs and lines for the the stock throttle body coolant system.
@@etwasbauen6615 I believe that hose runs under the plenum, it was made to give heat to the underside of the plenum in areas of the country with very cold winters, totally unnecessary.
@@brutallybrutalbrutality6505 I live in Louisville... Winters in Kentucky are not rough. It's for places that get alot colder, if you plan on taking your car out in 30 degree weather leave it alone
Mopar actually uses the ac on at least some of their 707 hp engines for an intercooler. However on a N/A motor you will likely lose more hp to parasitic loss from the ac than you'll gain from the colder air.
If you changed the thermostat, your running temp may be lower than what it was before, hence the heater core won't be as hot as it was before. I think 160 is too low, I opted for a 175F therm just for this reason.
Do you know how to pull the overdrive relay and where it’s located? Mine turns on and off and I have a feeling Bc of this, it has caused problems at idle. When car in neutral it’s clunking but when pushing in clutch it goes away. Anyone answers lmk, haven’t found much on old forum threads
Ha ! I watched your video... and said I will be careful not to snap that sensor.... Why do I even try. "F" that brittle thing ! W.T.F. ! you do a good job at making your videos understandable... for dumb people like me. Thanks !
Not a helluvalot of Point to 'capping' the inlets into the throttle body Once you remove the hoses and Coolant. Beyond that the presence of RTV is the Signature of a Moron Mechanic.
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The title was Was it worth it? Is it?
Thank you, I bought your kits and did all the same mods. The car runs amazing now, even starts easier with the smog pump gone. Engine bay so much cleaner and easier to access components.
Thank you for your business! Thats great. Yes they are great mods to do!
Did this on my 87 TA. Did some before and after temps, after a 30 minute drive the throttle body was 20-30 degrees cooler and the runners were around 10 degrees cooler.
Thats Cool. That was a good idea.
It seems that results would have made it much much more interesting
Yeah, too bad nobody is putting these cars on a dyno to see the results. I have an old vette performance book which did some mods and had before/after dyno tests which was nice.
I was watching a guy couple years back on TH-cam that did a homemade bypass and the way he did it was he use the two-way valve and a t connection on the other end so that during the summer months he could turn the valve to where it would bypass the intake and during the summer, then turn the valve the other direction for winter driving.
I wish I had thought to save the video, he did a good job and it looked good.
The two way valve and T connector were brass so they should last.
Thats a great idea.
TPIS delete kit
@@scoutleader06 Do you have a link to where I can find this delete kit online? I tried a google search but cannot find it.
Nice, i did all the same mods that you have done on mine also. Only thing I would do different is to not wear a nice watch and scratch it up :)
Haha thank you, its my daily watch so it has seen worse.
Wait, is it an Invicta? who cares.... HAHahahaha !
I would like to see ur video on deleting ur smog pump and plumbing caps etc
My '89 doesn't have the metal line where the straight piece of the bypass kit connects too?? mine's all heater hose from throttle body to firewall!! looks like I'm going to need to put a union in after all :( ... your videos kick a$$!! don't get me wrong..i ordered the hose, without visually looking at mine... Ohhh well.. still going to be cleaner!!!! Keep'em coming!!!
I also relocated the air temp sensor up to before the throttle body and that sensor is in the plenum by the EGR valve. EDIT: I should say I deleted that EGR too. 1985 and doesn't make the check engine light come on.
That a good idea! Thanks
Does a 85 vette have the air intake sensor thanks
Does the temp sensor you replaced have anything to do with the pcm turning the cooling fans on and off? And is there a coolant temp sensor that would turn them on earlier as mine doesn't seem to come on at all! Lol so I just ran a switch to the fan relays beside the upper drivers side rad and into the drivers compartment where I can manually control the cooling fans when I see it getting anywhere above 3/8's..
The pcm controls the temp at which the fan turns on. However, if you have the auxiliary fan located in front of the radiator, you can get a temp sender that will turn that one on at a st temperature. I bought one on eBay to control that. I also purchased a prom that turns the main fan on at 180. The 160 degree thermostat will open sooner. However, if it’s cold outside and you are driving at a decent clip, you will maintain a cooler running engine. If your cooling system very efficient, your engine may stay at 160. Once you idle down, the engine will warm up to whatever the fan is set to turn on. I hope that helps
My thoughts exactly!
Just bought a 85 vette with tuned port. It runs terrible won't idle spits and carries on until the car reaches 180 degrees temp then it runs great. I checked the cold start valve and the coonector and it was fine. Any other ideas thanks.
Ya get a c8
thermostat stuck in open position
Because I know you had to do two separate videos for both parts
Your kit says for corvette. I’m sure it will work for a 305 tpi in a camaro right? It’s the same engine correct?
Good deal
One question -_- I probably know the Answer??
With your smog pump delete video -_- can change the bypass coolant system at same time ?????
Somewhat mechanically inclined I am
Yes you can do both . Thanks
How expensive are the replacement electronics for the c4 cars, ik the 92 to 94 ecms have connector pin issues, buy I like the l98 cars so, I'm looking for a 90 to 91 convertible, any advice when it comes to this issue would be great thanks
Why even run a new connecting hose? Is it actually needed? Why not just have 4 capped off connectors?
It's piping the coolant directly into the block (or from the block , I'm not entirely sure which way that coolant is running).
I noticed the watch too. Looks nice! What kind is it?
Thank you! They are the other thing i collect besides cars!
What’s the difference between the 1985-1987 and 88-91 kit for the throttle body bypass kit
Different style hose for the l98 and lt1 running up to the heater core.
@@childishgreenbeano953 Nope, they all run L98. The LT1 motors came in 1992.
Did you change the thermostat because it's needed fot this mod or just because you were working near it?
Its not needed necessarily but most people run cooler thermostats to help them not run so hot
@@coltonbelvin2820 Cooler thermostat doesn't actually make your car run cooler. It just opens earlier and makes your motor rise to operational temp slower. It does regulate the heat going up and down though. Eventually your motor will heat up to what it will no matter of the thermostat. Too cool of a thermostat also effects how quickly the car will go into a closed loop operation (ie. start adjusting fuel mix with sensors instead of running from a preset table).A stock thermostat is 192°, IMO a 180° is a good compromise - not too cool but opens little earlier.
The cooling system as whole will determine the max temp the motor reaches. Clean system, especially the radiator and working fans are the most important things. You can lower fan turn on temps by installing a low temp fan switch or programming the ECM. These things work a bit different in early C4's vs. later models.
Thanks for the great video, I didn't quite get what the advantage of the bypass? Also, can you add a quick 20 seconds to this video on how you added the plugs? Did you use a sealant? etc.
Thank you. It just takes away hot coolant away from the throttle body allowing cooler air to enter. The caps just slide on . You technically dont need them it just looks nicer. Thanks
the advantage is you delete alot of junk hose and fittings to clean up under the hood . But this delete does not do that the hose and junk is still there. Do it right with the TPIS delete housing for the throttle body. Its a direct bolt-on. But If you live in Alaska or Iceland warming the throttle body with hot water makes sense.
As I understand it, the throttle body coolant hose takes the warm coolant directly from the engine as it is at the end of the coolant loop and thus the warmest part, therefore warming the throttlebody and air going through it. Colder air has more oxygen, so bypassing this coolant line keeps the throttle body colder and makes the engine run better; more power. I'm not sure about how to add the plugs.
at WOT the engines sucks air at like 200cfm I don’t think it has time to warm up from the TB even though it warms up the entire manifold. But the car seems to heat soak for some reason
No go. another half-way delete job. Buy the TPIS coolant delete housing its a direct bolt-onto the bottom of the throttle body and then get rid of all the plumbing plugs and lines for the the stock throttle body coolant system.
the bolt broke in half on me now i gotta figure out how to get it out :(
Does that hose work for 95 Vette lt1
why would you install a 160 t-stat on a motor that is designed to run at 200 degrees ?
I always wondered the same thing
Is that hose even necessary? I was wondering if left side of engine needs that amount of extra cooling flow?
i believe the coolant goes from the engine into the cars heater core. Thanks
@@etwasbauen6615 I believe that hose runs under the plenum, it was made to give heat to the underside of the plenum in areas of the country with very cold winters, totally unnecessary.
@@dukeman7595 i live in kentucky lol winters can be rough think it would be a bad idea to remove mine?
@@brutallybrutalbrutality6505 I live in Louisville... Winters in Kentucky are not rough. It's for places that get alot colder, if you plan on taking your car out in 30 degree weather leave it alone
What would interesting is if you could run your AC cooling line thru that throttle body!
Yea that would be interesting for sure!
Mopar actually uses the ac on at least some of their 707 hp engines for an intercooler. However on a N/A motor you will likely lose more hp to parasitic loss from the ac than you'll gain from the colder air.
I did my car and it not getting heat to the vents like it use to
If you changed the thermostat, your running temp may be lower than what it was before, hence the heater core won't be as hot as it was before. I think 160 is too low, I opted for a 175F therm just for this reason.
I wanna get mine running so bad but idk what all I need to do to just get it running. Do you know what all other than fluids changed i would need
Hi, i would change the oil and the coolant and try to get it running. at that point you can work out the kinks
from there.
@@etwasbauen6615 thanks @Etwas Bauen
Is it self bleeding? My mechanic wanted $250 for a bypass job!
You would just have to top off your coolant after you get it hot and then cools off. It should take that long to do.
TPIS delete housing. Direct bolt on to throttle body in your garage. About $60 and 1/2 hr
@@scoutleader06 Got a link? I'm trying to figure out what you're saying and "tpis delete housing" search reveals nothing.
Do you know how to pull the overdrive relay and where it’s located? Mine turns on and off and I have a feeling Bc of this, it has caused problems at idle. When car in neutral it’s clunking but when pushing in clutch it goes away. Anyone answers lmk, haven’t found much on old forum threads
Hi im not sure. Ill have to look into it.
IATS relocation is worth it if you haven’t done that yet
Thanks
Ha ! I watched your video... and said I will be careful not to snap that sensor.... Why do I even try. "F" that brittle thing ! W.T.F. ! you do a good job at making your videos understandable... for dumb people like me. Thanks !
Thank you. Yea it happens more often then not. You try to one project and end up breaking 3 extra things. haha thanks for watching
Not a helluvalot of Point to 'capping' the inlets into the throttle body Once you remove the hoses and Coolant.
Beyond that the presence of RTV is the Signature of a Moron Mechanic.
Thanks!
exactly
A finished look, prevents bugs from crawling up there, or other dirt and debris.