1MZ-FE Sludge - Oil Pressure Fix and Test - Toyota Highlander
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ต.ค. 2024
- The Toyota 3.0 liter V6 1MZ-FE from Highlander, Camry, Lexus RX300 seems particularly prone to sludge. Accumulation of sludge in the oil pan and the oil pickup tube strainer can lead to loss of oil pressure and engine damage. If you're lucky, you catch the problem in time before you lose the engine. STOP IMMEDIATELY IF THE OIL PRESSURE LIGHT COMES ON. On this engine, we clean up the sludge, and we test the solution by verifying the operating oil pressure with a oil pressure gauge. The pressure gauge must havea a 1/8 BSPT adapter to fit on the Toyota oil pressure port. See how to use readily available tools to test the oil pressure and verify the fix. On some engines, cleaning up the sludge from under the valve covers, the oil pan, the oil pickup strainer, and the oil pressure sender/switch can restore oil pressure, if the problem is caught and corrected early enough. For this engine, post-fix, the warm pressure at idle is stable at about 25psi.
This video save me alot of time with my 2002 highlander. Had low oil light come on while driving. Then it would shut off the engine. Had to clean the oil strainer and solved my problem.
Good job. Thanks for watching.
Did you mean to say the oil filter?
Good stuff. If you are unsure or don't want to do this professional work or don't have time, the trick here is to switch to full synthetic and change oil periodically. You don't want to just flush out the sludge at once. This might cause issues. Then after 3 or 4 oil changes, do exactly what this guy did and maintain synthetic and 3-4k oil changes. Should do 500k easily
Thank you for watching.
Same as my 1997 Lexus ES300 with basically the same engine. Thanks for that. Didn't know until now.
Thank you for watching and for commenting
Hi, great video. I just bought an import estima 2004 3.0l 1mzfe vvti engine previus owner stated he used 15w40 castrol its done 140,000kms what oil would you recommend i use instead thanks
5W30 or 10W30 mobil1 synthetic. Change frequently. no more than 5,000 miles (8 000km) between changes.
Mileage of vehicle and type of oil used.Conventional/Synthetic? Along with oil change history if possible?
Too late for that. Car was totaled in flood shortly after.
Have a 2006 Highlander w 3MZ-FE bought used 2 yr ago .. changing the front valve cover & WOW. Chocolate cake & shiny black solid sludge ... was running fine. Cleaned the valve cover which had the air/oil separator totally clogged. Ran transmission fluid & engine cleaner ... didn't touch the sludge ... now have oil light ... little knocking. Not sure if we should vacuum. Where does the oil go when looking down at this mess?
Best bet is take off the oil pan and clean the oil pickup strainer as well as any debris in the oil pan.
@@Merryfrankster_ Thanks. That's what we did. Also changed oil pressure sensor. Went ~ 3 miles then the oil light came back on. Stopping & starting clears the light & driving 20mph keeps it off. Looks like several iterations of dropping the pan & cleaning the strainer may be necessary ... hate having to scrape/clean sealer each time.
If there's a gasket other than the sealer or if we could make a cork/rubber or other removable gasket it'd make it easier.
@@mrkrmjr this is a symptom of a bigger issue. The oil pressure varies with rpm. It gets higher with RPM. This is normal. But your oil pressure at low rpm is too low. This means either there is an issue in the oil pump or in the bearings or the oil pickup tube is not picking up enough oil. You can switch to a thicker oil like a 10W40 or a 20W50 and this will increase your oil pressure. I have posted a video on how to replace the oil pump. Unfortunately this does require a lot of disassembly. Continuing to run the engine with low oil pressure will lead to an engine failure.
@@mrkrmjr removable gaskets leak. A cork gasket is available in the aftermarket. You can purchase a few to use temporarily until you get the problem resolved, then you can reseal the pan correctly with FIPG.
Did you use any snake oil or chemical to get the doodoo out of the top of the engine? Just wondering if there is anything that will break it up “quickly and safely”
I used a vacuum cleaner. There is no way to break it up safely.
Curious if this owner had used synthetic oil in this engine. This is a known problem with this engine and it's recommended to use synthetic with this engine to try and avoid this problem.
Thank you for watching.
Yeah, but who knew of this stupid issue. Junk Engine.
@@guitar1junky well it's been pretty documented for a long while. I have had one since 2008 and it was well documented at that point. I have run nothing but full synthetic in mine with frequent oil changes.
@@natevanlandingham1945 I bought mine new in 2002. Had no idea this would happen. Dealer said I need a new Engine. I cleaned it out best I could. Still running with no issues. But, I clean the oil pick up tube once a year just to be safe. So, this sludge never goes away.
@@guitar1junky I just pulled the valve covers off mine today. I am doing new valve cover gaskets, knock sensors and associates parts. There was no more "sludge" or crud inside the valve cover or on the head than any other engine I have had. Actually looked very good under there to me considering this is a known "sludge" engine. Either I am lucky or the synthetic I have run in it and maybe the original owners attention to maintenance.
Awesomeness
is it a decent idea to put oil cleaners like lucas or seafoam into the oil that are made to break down build up? like will it help reduce the sludged oil?
Some people state a concern that with an engine that is already sludged up, using a cleaner or flush may loosen up sludge and cause it to clog up the oil passages and the oil pump pickup. I do use an engine flush on engines that are not too far gone but on engines that are all crusted up on the inside (check under the valve covers) I just stick a fork in em and turn em over, they're done. Don't bother with the bbq sauce.
@@Merryfrankster_ okay thank you so so much! just passed 190k miles on my 94 non vvti 1mz in my camry coupe, was owned by an old man who took great care of it and kept all his maintenance receipts and stuff, and i can tell its been changed regularly and driven by an old man, and runs great so id guess the sludge aint bad even tho its at 190k 🤷🏽♂️ i wanna cam it even tho its got lots of miles, but i have no idea where to get custom ones and i cant find any 3mz/2mz cams i wanted at least exhaust cams if i can only get the other mz ones but a set of custom ones would be sick, yk if like machine shops or sum could make me custom cams???
@@Yes-bg5nr don't bother with that - just swap a 3.5-liter 2gr-fe for your old 1mz and gain 100whp.
What would be an easy way to get an oil pressure gauge to work on that Highlander for normal driving? I'm mostly wondering if it would require any parts other than the gauge and wiring from the sensor to the gauge.
You would need to put a tee fitting on the oil pressure port. The stock switch would go in one side, your aftermarket sensor in the other. Note that Toyota utilizes a 1/8 BSPT thread forthe oil pressure switch. All domestic oil pressure sensors/gauges you can buy uitlize 1/8 NPT. Fortunately there is a special ftee itting available aftermarket for Toyotas and Hondas that threads in with 1/8 male BSPT and has 1 female 1/8NPT port for your aftermarket sensor and one female 1/8BSPT port for your stock switch. Look for this fitting on eBay. Another alternative is to fit a sandwich plate on the oil filter , and place the oil pressure switch in the sandwich plate.
I have lexus es 300 2002, this engine is kinda calm in driving, so i am looking to add oil cleaner or not... its only 150k km. Only thing i know it was in bad hands last 5 years
You can check the spark plugs, they should be changed every 100K miles - or less. Often the spark plug wells are filled with oil from the leaking valve cover gasket. This does not help.
@@Merryfrankster_ oh so much worky worky. And yes oil sips out everywhere(from valve covers) like a blooded deeer in agony. However oil level is stable and i just want make sure i did all i could to prolong its life . Im not mechanic i am a driver)
@@iwantequinox Just drive it into the ground, however long it takes, and you'll be done with it, so you can move on to the next victim.
Owner probably extended his oil change intervals way too long. Happens. I do mine at 4k. I’m at 350k miles on my 1mzfe. Still running well
Mines at 175 and I only run mobil1 5w30 in it and change every 4k
Some owners never change the oil or never bother to add any until the engine seizes. Seen this too many times.
Been using 10w-30 since it’s been burning oil. I even use 10-40 to add. Since it’s the non vvt engine, doesn’t even hurt it
ty very much sir
My Oil light started blinking then stayed on after starting my car up, then when I was going to put my car inside the garage, i kinda felt like it was failing fir a single second so I turned the car off quickly, gonna try cleaning the pickup tube in these days, just hope I’m not late, I’m so worried about my Camry, it only has 132k miles and did my last oil change this January, used Mobil 1 Advanced Synthetic along with Lucas HM stabilizer, always checked the oil level each month up to today and it’s still full, I’m just praying it’s a bad pressure sensor and some sludge on the oil pick up tube cause I’m worried as hell, don’t wanna have to give up on my car yet 😔
Start by pulling and cleaning your oil pressure switch, in case it is the culprit. Put a pressure gauge on the sensor port to verify the oil pressure. Then you can move to the next step if needed.
Thankyou
Thanks for watching.
Use your scan tool to check for oil pressure.😁
Buddy that is not and available PID on this vehicle - not with a generic scantool AND not with manufacturer-specific PIDs. Why don't you just stick with what you know instead of making an ass of yourself.
Such a satisfying response. Troll stopped in his tracks.