I know this video is older but I appreciate it. I just did the actuator to the left of yours but unfortunately didn't fix my hot air coming from passenger side vents not a fun job at all. I also wanted to mention you can hook a 9v battery in conjunction to the correct pins and it will move the actuator to match up with the one you removed its pretty simple I tested my old one this way and found it worked perfect.
Thanks for this video. Just did mine tonight. I found that when I dropped the glove box down and took out the passenger airbag, there was enough room to get my hands in there with a 1/4” magnetic nut driver loaded with a 1/4” socket bit with the 5.5mm socket. Not the most elegant position, but it worked well enough.
Great videos Froggy. Just wanted to let you know, that is exactly the procedure I use when replacing those recirc. actuators. I've been with GM as a tech for a number of years now, and I also own a 2002 C5. One last thing on the actuator job...unhook the battery then reconnect it to perform the actuator recalibration. The system will recalibrate all actuators. Keep up the good work. Joe M.
On the 2002 have you ever tried that actuator from below, or can it be done on 2002 below? Looked like it was an extremely difficult access from below. :)
If memory serves, I believe its approx. 6 hrs or so. I've never tried it from the bottom. The procedure I use was almost exactly the same as your, right down to the wood block
Or you could remove 3 of the 4 or 5 screws on the lower housing and then pull it down on the right side. Then remove the 2 screws holding the actuator, unplug it, and then reverse the process with the new actuator. 20 minutes and you are done. It's the same process for those GM trucks that have cabin air filters...the filter is right next to the actuator for those who have the filters.
Thanks! I aborted the dash removal when I saw it was held down with clips at the bottom of the windshield (and when Peggi started crying when she saw the interior of her Tahoe with all the panels removed for access). But your video showed me where the recirculation actuator is. I was so curious. She got the option for seperate driver/passenger controls, so I'm still wondering where the temperature actuator for front passenger is. Good tip, the string and tape. To late for me, but other viewers would be wise to take note. (There's a 7mm socket somewhere in the front passenger vents duct work that I can only hope doesn't keep a blend door from moving and damage its actuator.)
I know I am 3 years late but the blend door for the dual zone is under the center of the dash. It takes removing 3 7mm screws from the cover under the glove box and you can see it sticking down a bit. It's a pain in the ass to change.
What a chore. I think I will just use the heated leather seats and the back heater still works in my Suburban. As long as the air conditioner still works it's fine here in Cali
cole trickle The problem is the annoying sound. I’m actually thinking of just unplugging the plug to the actuator. Do I really need to control recirculation?
Two really good videos in in much of the same project actuators are good However my mode lenk& there are two my upper link came off.It seems the rod That the mode link connects to has broke an hangs at a Angel instead of Level / horazonel. Like cane out of a pocket or retainer clip may have come off an rod slipped out of a pocket? I don't know but yes it is tough getting into that area.wish I could have seen how you drop dash. Thanks for the time an effort you put into your videos.
@@1947froggy thanks groggy I did an found one that showed dash removal.but didn't get into mode doors? Hay groggy I thank you much for getting back to me so soon.Your a big help. Have a good day & enjoy
I just did my heater core on my 2002 2500HD and in my honest opinion if you going to get to your recirculation door actuator instead of cutting and pulling everything apart I say take the extra hour and unplug connectors and fuse boxes unbolt the 4bolts on each side of the dash frame and the other support frame on passenger side and pull the entire dash towards you and the whole actuator and blower setup is right in your face. But if you do this I also say change out your heater core at the same time if it is the original core simply for the fact it takes about 5hours start to finish. It seems like a major pain in the a*$ but after you change everything out it's not half as bad when your done. PLUS it will save you about $1000. That a mechanic will charge you
Just unplug mine and the noise is gone. It was driving me mad. Don’t have the option for recirculating air but truck isn’t my primary vehicle now. Most my commute is with Honda Civic. But probably fix it in the spring. You can drop the console down enough to reach in and unplug.
Great video froggy. I have learned quite a bit messing with mine except I am replacing the mode actuator which is under driver side above throttle pedal. To move actuator - turn ignition on while the harness is connected (not mounted) and it will go to one extreme. To move it the other direction do the same but take out the HVAC fuse before turning ignition on. This will move it to the other extreme. Once it get to where you want it, just turn off ignition. Essentially one is powered state which commands the motor in one direction and the other is a non powered state which moves it the other direction. Issue I had with mine is even after installing the new one it would drive to the one end and stop there. I tried multiple recalibrations with the part just hanging there (dismounted it) and watching the cam and it would not work. So either my recalibration approach is wrong or my actual control panel with dials is not working right. Very frustrated at this point! Thanks for any words of wisdom. Mine is 2003 Suburban
I've been wondering about how to get into the dash. My problem is the mode door, but figured there had to be an actuator that would be near impossible to access. I'm still concerned about the difficulty of removing the mode actuator without removing that huge gear cam. I liked your explanations. My wallet likes it when I don't have to pay someone to replace a part. Looking at your controls, I think my 2002 Silverado is similar. Did you ever do the mode door?
Use two long screwdrivers. Where that metal bar is that goes from the dash to the floor hump, wedge a screwdriver between that & the cam, while using the other screwdriver to pry the actuator off it. That worked for me, because if that cam falls off, add another hour to the job.
I’ve done this job 3 times now. Once on my old 99 & twice on my current 2002, as the eBay replacement was DOA. Ended up using a junkyard one which worked. I can change the mode door actuator out in 5 minutes now.
Froggy, what was happening that caused you to need to replace this actuator? I'm having issues with my AC in a 2001 suburban and already changed the heater door actuator. But I can still hear some grinding and a soft thump every 30 seconds or so. I also have an issue with the temperature of the air when I sit still at a traffic light. What was happening to you?
You could but the choice is often useful. If it is stuck on outside air and you are in slow smoggy stop and go traffic, switch it to recirc and stop sucking in the dirty air. Vice versa your car is super heated from sitting in blazing sun & closed windows and you want to drive away with a/c (windows closed) and suck in some cooler outside air.
Hey Froggy, I watched all 3 videos and I have the same problem, tapping sound coming from under the glove box on a 2001 Silverado. I want to get the part before tearing into the dash. I kept googling GM Re circulation actuator, but google would always come back with blend door. I finally stumbled across the same part number 89018678, Z010181452A, Made in Korea. for $15 plus $4.53 shipping. It is now 12/2/2019, is your, Made in Korea part still working?
@@1947froggy, Thanks for the quick reply. I enjoyed all three informative videos. Some people may think they were too long, but I don't think you missed any important information for a DIY who always wonders if I am doing it right. I seem to always have trouble disconnecting those stubborn old brittle, stiff, electrical connectors and when I watch someone else do it. I think to myself, I have to be doing something wrong! Keep up the good work buddy!
Thanks for posting the part numbers... I too have a 2001 Silverado and the wife is going crazy because she uses the recirculation feature more than any other feature (I think more than her stereo!). I'm starting my journey down this road of replacement and trying to prepare for all this fun. Would be interested in hearing if the process was successful for you.
Lol. Still need help New blower motor But for the front Only getting cold air Not all vents blows equal or none at all Deforstrr only work in center If get warm air it from driving over an hour or barely hot air Rear only cold air and number 2 for the rear selectors Front actuator blender on passage side wohavent check anything else New coolant not flush All valves are good The intake valve and return to the heater core do get hot not sure what tempatur Not sure if it's the heater core One of the accurate The switch Or my raditor
2003 Suburban, this is exactly what I needed today, thank you so much for being so thorough.
This video may be 7 yrs old, but it sure did help me out. Thank you sir for your video 😎
I know this video is older but I appreciate it. I just did the actuator to the left of yours but unfortunately didn't fix my hot air coming from passenger side vents not a fun job at all. I also wanted to mention you can hook a 9v battery in conjunction to the correct pins and it will move the actuator to match up with the one you removed its pretty simple I tested my old one this way and found it worked perfect.
Thanks for this video. Just did mine tonight. I found that when I dropped the glove box down and took out the passenger airbag, there was enough room to get my hands in there with a 1/4” magnetic nut driver loaded with a 1/4” socket bit with the 5.5mm socket. Not the most elegant position, but it worked well enough.
Excellent.
Great videos Froggy. Just wanted to let you know, that is exactly the procedure I use when replacing those recirc. actuators. I've been with GM as a tech for a number of years now, and I also own a 2002 C5. One last thing on the actuator job...unhook the battery then reconnect it to perform the actuator recalibration. The system will recalibrate all actuators. Keep up the good work. Joe M.
Thanks very much Joe, if you don't mind what would a dealer charge for this job? OK if you'd rather not say, but I think it's a lot of book time.
:)
On the 2002 have you ever tried that actuator from below, or can it be done on 2002 below? Looked like it was an extremely difficult access from below.
:)
If memory serves, I believe its approx. 6 hrs or so. I've never tried it from the bottom. The procedure I use was almost exactly the same as your, right down to the wood block
Haha, that's so crazy, I am totally "self taught" a shade tree mechanic. It encourages me that I did ok. THANKS for checking out my videos.
:)
If the recirc door works properly with KOEO but not with KOER (defaults to open recirc) is it still the actuator?
This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for the video
Welcome.
:)
This is exactly what I needed to know. That noise is annoying and this is going to be a tough one !
Umm, yeah, it's not an easy one. Post back how it goes.
:)
I’ve done this. Take the dash off, and take the passenger airbag out. Makes life way easier.
Great video. Kudos to you for doing and your patience which is #1 with a project like this. Well done. 👍👍
Before replacing recalibrate. A lot of these are fixed with just recalibration There are videos that show the process.
Good point, mine was beyond calibration. :)
Or you could remove 3 of the 4 or 5 screws on the lower housing and then pull it down on the right side. Then remove the 2 screws holding the actuator, unplug it, and then reverse the process with the new actuator. 20 minutes and you are done. It's the same process for those GM trucks that have cabin air filters...the filter is right next to the actuator for those who have the filters.
Sorry be a while so I can't really picture what you describe, however, there are always alternate ways to go at a fix, thank you for sharing!
:)
It's not too long froggy! Well done brother!
Thanks!
I aborted the dash removal when I saw it was held down with clips at the bottom of the windshield (and when Peggi started crying when she saw the interior of her Tahoe with all the panels removed for access). But your video showed me where the recirculation actuator is. I was so curious. She got the option for seperate driver/passenger controls, so I'm still wondering where the temperature actuator for front passenger is.
Good tip, the string and tape. To late for me, but other viewers would be wise to take note. (There's a 7mm socket somewhere in the front passenger vents duct work that I can only hope doesn't keep a blend door from moving and damage its actuator.)
I know I am 3 years late but the blend door for the dual zone is under the center of the dash. It takes removing 3 7mm screws from the cover under the glove box and you can see it sticking down a bit. It's a pain in the ass to change.
I think that "vacuum hose" at 2:45 is your radio antenna coax.
You could be correct. Thanks. :)
7/32 fits perfectly as well
@Camilo Rios- That's what I'm using on an 03' Sierra.
much easier if you remove the airbag in the club box tour gives you much more room and faster
I thought about that, but was "cautious" about messing with the airbag "bomb".
That's what I did replaced all mine 4 bolts and remove the plug from airbag
What a chore. I think I will just use the heated leather seats and the back heater still works in my Suburban. As long as the air conditioner still works it's fine here in Cali
cole trickle The problem is the annoying sound. I’m actually thinking of just unplugging the plug to the actuator. Do I really need to control recirculation?
what I hate is you can see the darn thing through the glove box access, but cant get your hand in there !!!
Almost like a tease, here i am but u can`t get to me lol
Thanks bother that helped
Welcome!
Two really good videos in in much of the same project actuators are good
However my mode lenk& there are two my upper link came off.It seems the rod
That the mode link connects to has broke an hangs at a Angel instead of
Level / horazonel. Like cane out of a pocket or retainer clip may have come off an rod slipped out of a pocket? I don't know but yes it is tough getting into that area.wish I could have seen how you drop dash. Thanks for the time an effort you put into your videos.
Look thru all my videos, maybe have a dash removal.
@@1947froggy thanks groggy I did an found one that showed dash removal.but didn't get into mode doors?
Hay groggy I thank you much for getting back to me so soon.Your a big help. Have a good day & enjoy
I just did my heater core on my 2002 2500HD and in my honest opinion if you going to get to your recirculation door actuator instead of cutting and pulling everything apart I say take the extra hour and unplug connectors and fuse boxes unbolt the 4bolts on each side of the dash frame and the other support frame on passenger side and pull the entire dash towards you and the whole actuator and blower setup is right in your face. But if you do this I also say change out your heater core at the same time if it is the original core simply for the fact it takes about 5hours start to finish. It seems like a major pain in the a*$ but after you change everything out it's not half as bad when your done. PLUS it will save you about $1000. That a mechanic will charge you
COULD OF USED A LONG FLEXIBLE DRILL BIT
Great videos I have seen from you. Thanks for saving me money.
Glad to help.
:)
Would just unplugging the plug to this actuator stop the annoying noises work? Hvac still work just no option of recirculation?
I am sure you can unplug or pull a fuse somewhere & stop it, but I want mine to function as designed. Thanks!
Just unplug mine and the noise is gone. It was driving me mad. Don’t have the option for recirculating air but truck isn’t my primary vehicle now. Most my commute is with Honda Civic. But probably fix it in the spring. You can drop the console down enough to reach in and unplug.
Great video froggy. I have learned quite a bit messing with mine except I am replacing the mode actuator which is under driver side above throttle pedal. To move actuator - turn ignition on while the harness is connected (not mounted) and it will go to one extreme. To move it the other direction do the same but take out the HVAC fuse before turning ignition on. This will move it to the other extreme. Once it get to where you want it, just turn off ignition. Essentially one is powered state which commands the motor in one direction and the other is a non powered state which moves it the other direction. Issue I had with mine is even after installing the new one it would drive to the one end and stop there. I tried multiple recalibrations with the part just hanging there (dismounted it) and watching the cam and it would not work. So either my recalibration approach is wrong or my actual control panel with dials is not working right. Very frustrated at this point! Thanks for any words of wisdom. Mine is 2003 Suburban
One tech told me to disconnect the battery for a few minutes to recalibrate.
:)
I've been wondering about how to get into the dash. My problem is the mode door, but figured there had to be an actuator that would be near impossible to access. I'm still concerned about the difficulty of removing the mode actuator without removing that huge gear cam. I liked your explanations. My wallet likes it when I don't have to pay someone to replace a part. Looking at your controls, I think my 2002 Silverado is similar. Did you ever do the mode door?
Not on this one, did on a Lexus but that won't help, sorry.
:)
Use two long screwdrivers. Where that metal bar is that goes from the dash to the floor hump, wedge a screwdriver between that & the cam, while using the other screwdriver to pry the actuator off it. That worked for me, because if that cam falls off, add another hour to the job.
I’ve done this job 3 times now. Once on my old 99 & twice on my current 2002, as the eBay replacement was DOA. Ended up using a junkyard one which worked. I can change the mode door actuator out in 5 minutes now.
Froggy, what was happening that caused you to need to replace this actuator? I'm having issues with my AC in a 2001 suburban and already changed the heater door actuator. But I can still hear some grinding and a soft thump every 30 seconds or so. I also have an issue with the temperature of the air when I sit still at a traffic light. What was happening to you?
I wore out.
You have a link or part number? I need that piece
No sorry been too long.
I bought an FR-S rather than BRZ because I wanted simple manual HVAC controls. 😉
Can you just unplug that actuator and be done ?why even need this option outside air vs recirculate
You could but the choice is often useful. If it is stuck on outside air and you are in slow smoggy stop and go traffic, switch it to recirc and stop sucking in the dirty air. Vice versa your car is super heated from sitting in blazing sun & closed windows and you want to drive away with a/c (windows closed) and suck in some cooler outside air.
Hey Froggy, I watched all 3 videos and I have the same problem, tapping sound coming from under the glove box on a 2001 Silverado. I want to get the part before tearing into the dash. I kept googling GM Re circulation actuator, but google would always come back with blend door. I finally stumbled across the same part number 89018678, Z010181452A, Made in Korea.
for $15 plus $4.53 shipping. It is now 12/2/2019, is your, Made in Korea part still working?
Yep, working.
:)
@@1947froggy, Thanks for the quick reply. I enjoyed all three informative videos. Some people may think they were too long, but I don't think you missed any important information for a DIY who always wonders if I am doing it right.
I seem to always have trouble disconnecting those stubborn old brittle, stiff, electrical connectors and when I watch someone else do it. I think to myself, I have to be doing something wrong! Keep up the good work buddy!
@@johntube2525 They ARE hard to get apart, thanks!
Thanks for posting the part numbers... I too have a 2001 Silverado and the wife is going crazy because she uses the recirculation feature more than any other feature (I think more than her stereo!). I'm starting my journey down this road of replacement and trying to prepare for all this fun.
Would be interested in hearing if the process was successful for you.
@@DrakeJStone 100% successful.
Part number for actuator please.
Don't have it unless it shows in the video.
:)
froggy found it on Amazon.
very good !
Thanks oliver!
Lol.
Still need help
New blower motor
But for the front
Only getting cold air
Not all vents blows equal or none at all
Deforstrr only work in center
If get warm air it from driving over an hour or barely hot air
Rear only cold air and number 2 for the rear selectors
Front actuator blender on passage side wohavent check anything else
New coolant not flush
All valves are good
The intake valve and return to the heater core do get hot not sure what tempatur
Not sure if it's the heater core
One of the accurate
The switch
Or my raditor
recommend watching at 2x speed
Yep, I don't go fast.
:)
not that it isn't a good video. in fact in helps a bunch. whether i actually decide to do it or not is another question... :)
Good luck, if you do try I will help if you post questions in the comments.
:)
I pray mine never go out as I have a GM truck and a Yukon. I bet the dealer would have charged will over 500.00 to do this job!
Yes, in S. California EASILY over $500.
:)
Great info, your just a bit long winded. To much little repetitive info. Makes the video twice as long.
Thanks, sorry, that's just me.
:)