I have a simple solution that will probably fix your air leak issue I can't guarantee that the compressor will have enough power to support the truck but you can probably take small copper wire or steel craft wire and use it like a hose clamp. I have done this on full scale hoses in the past and it works very well with both barbed fittings and smooth fittings. I have also used it on weed eater fuel line in the past and it works exceptionally well with that.
Anybody can do this stuff buddy. I didnt know how to make all this happen until I tried it. Just takes some patience which i am slowly learning how to have.
Put a Castle 10amp Bec on it with your esc. You can get more voltage to your servo and air pump. Right now your getting 2 volt 5 amp throw the 1060 esc. with the Bec you can change from 4.8 to 9.0 volts at 10amp output that will make it work better.
K bud got something you can try here looks like to me that your air pump is not storg enough to lift the truck so this is what iv got figgerd out need to try useing a air tank to store the air before it goes into the bags it may work I know what your thinking the tank want have enough pressure it should work may can try that thia way you could get more psi to the bags for more lifting power to lift the wait of the farm truck think about it let me know what you think fabtech rc American made look me up thanks for your TH-cam videos love what you do bud
Hi again, the reason I ask about metal tube is with the flexible tubing the pump has to pressurise all the tube before anything else works so it leaves the system with less to work with.
You can solve it with servo assist using a cam. Cam rotation to increase height under load and cam off will leave it as it sits now while not under load.
Yes it’s a work and progress but the engineering into making this baby into a reality is the most important thing Love this brother! I was subbed unfortunately I must’ve never hit the bell! 🔔
My thoughts.. Simply ditch the pneumatics totally and fit multiple high-torque servos... the more you add, the higher you can increase the travel using longer servo arms. Also easy to add the ability to slow the travel speed to be more realistic
Glad to see you getting back into this one. I'm not sure, you may have addressed this before. Are your hoses leaking? Can you run nitro fuel line as a more sealed alternative? Does the manufacturer have a more powerful pump or struts? You may have already been down that road, either way your content is awesome, keep up the great work.
I second or third the idea of trying to get some zip ties really tight on your air hose; see if that will keep it from leaking down. If it will hold the weight with the air lines clamped tight, you could just use a single servo to help lift the rear but not old the weight, a bit like the throttle and brake on a gas or nitro RC. Just a push rod with a stop in the middle and nothing on the end. The stop only touches the axle when aired down, when aired up, the is no load on the servo.
I wonder if you can add another set of shocks to raise the load? Custom installation because one set does what it's designed to do but a second set would add the needed power to lift the load.
Can you run an external BEC and over or the pump a bit. I’m guessing the receiver has between 5-6 volts. You could try to up it a few volts using a BEC.
Hey man, any way you could add a servo assist in the rear that moves the attachment point for the air shocks? That way when it's empty you can move the servo linkage and lay frame but raise it back up when it's loaded, this would be an entirely separate system from the air suspension so it won't interfere with that. Hopefully I'm conveying properly what I have in my head lol.
lOOK INTO MOUNTING THE SPRINGS ON CANTILEVERS FROM A SUMMIT TO SERVOS INSTEAD OF AIR RIDE. THIS WILL ALLOW YOU TO HAVE MUCH STIFFER SPRINGS AND CARRY A LOAD BUT YET STILL LAY FRAME.
Love ur videos keep up the great work!!! I had an idea, could u make a bracket off the rear suspension behind the diff for another air shock and canaleaver and pivot a small like anti drag tire off the last cross member???
Just get 60A they're just as cheap. Becuae they're mass produce. They have a fan. So it wont run hot...so you can run 2S-3S lipo. I use it with 2845 ( 3000KV- 3900KV) ( can size) for 1/12 3650-3670 ( 3000KV - 3900KV) for 1/10 . Sort of like getting standard size servo are cheaper than getting micro servo. just check...if the truck goes faster in reverse....swap the 2 outside wires. You so be able to do 35-40 mph..easy...depending on your gearing. it's plenty of 2s with decent C ratings... A decent 2s lipo with higher C rating will have more power than 3s with lower C ratings... some of my 1/12 do over 45 mph..becuase they're light and gearing...on 3s 45C. on the 60A. Your trucks are more 1/10 size and heavier ( 3670...2600KV..there about) so you'll get motor torque without over heating the motor. You dont want to over heat brushless motors..it'll melt the glue (short the motor) Over heating...cuase the magnets to get weaker. You definitly dont want to over heat the ESC. It's sort of pain in the arss...at first to understand Brushless... but it's actaully simple....MOTOR size is the key...KV can vari for the same motors size....View it as GEARING..Sort of like matching the proper prop and KV to an airframe....if you want more torque..lower KV...Higher KV are for lighter models. The 2845 3100 KV on my 1/12 truck ..goes faster than the 3900KV. It has more power than a 550 brushed.... They're all around $20-$25 p/motor.....The 60A esc are only $15. You're start having tire wear or balloon issues from 45 mph and above. You need to get a programming card...to program the esc. I use 4076 2250KV or 4092 1600KV 120A esc 4S 50C for my 1/8 buggies or MT...they do 50 mph ish but they're 9-12 lb AUW
Scale Hydraulic systems are out there from places like RC4wd, but it gets expensive fast. I priced a setup from them and was almost $800 in parts. Plus most of the available hydraulic cylinders are pretty long and could not fit very well under the body
![[Full] 4 ต่อ 4 Celebrity EP.920 | 3 พ.ย. 67 | one31](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KwiW2M_kAg4/mqdefault.jpg)
such awesome artwork! you're a great artist
Looks bad ass. Also cutting the windows like if they were rolled down would look kick ass! Love the vent windows in those truck. Great build.
Awesome! That 1060 is nice. I have em in all my rigs, just got the brushless in my Axial monster truck, thing rips even with 4.75 tall tires.
Looks good with the farm truck on the back. Man this ramp truck has been fighting you all the way. You'll crack this nut though.
Can't wait to see this working at USTE 2020!!!!
You build some awesome models!
This is one of my favorite truck builds !
Awesome video and build
nice picture 6:09 i love this trucks XD thumbs up
I have a simple solution that will probably fix your air leak issue I can't guarantee that the compressor will have enough power to support the truck but you can probably take small copper wire or steel craft wire and use it like a hose clamp. I have done this on full scale hoses in the past and it works very well with both barbed fittings and smooth fittings. I have also used it on weed eater fuel line in the past and it works exceptionally well with that.
Absolutely amazing stuff I wish I had a fraction of this guys talent
Anybody can do this stuff buddy. I didnt know how to make all this happen until I tried it. Just takes some patience which i am slowly learning how to have.
Put a Castle 10amp Bec on it with your esc. You can get more voltage to your servo and air pump. Right now your getting 2 volt 5 amp throw the 1060 esc. with the Bec you can change from 4.8 to 9.0 volts at 10amp output that will make it work better.
That's so wild man. Great work!!
K bud got something you can try here looks like to me that your air pump is not storg enough to lift the truck so this is what iv got figgerd out need to try useing a air tank to store the air before it goes into the bags it may work I know what your thinking the tank want have enough pressure it should work may can try that thia way you could get more psi to the bags for more lifting power to lift the wait of the farm truck think about it let me know what you think fabtech rc American made look me up thanks for your TH-cam videos love what you do bud
Mad scientist have to experiment brother. Sick project no matter how ya look at it. Keep it, great stuff to watch.
Hi again, the reason I ask about metal tube is with the flexible tubing the pump has to pressurise all the tube before anything else works so it leaves the system with less to work with.
Use the servos as the lift and run coil overs for suspension using the cantilever system
kool , thanx...neat one man , always luv yer work...good stuff
Robert
You can solve it with servo assist using a cam. Cam rotation to increase height under load and cam off will leave it as it sits now while not under load.
Looks super cool ;-)
Channel mixing and a servo saver on the servo would probably fix you right up. :D
Yes it’s a work and progress but the engineering into making this baby into a reality is the most important thing
Love this brother! I was subbed unfortunately I must’ve never hit the bell! 🔔
If the air ride runs off of the receiver, get a programmable BEC from castle and add more voltage to the system.
Well done :-)
My thoughts.. Simply ditch the pneumatics totally and fit multiple high-torque servos... the more you add, the higher you can increase the travel using longer servo arms. Also easy to add the ability to slow the travel speed to be more realistic
I couldn't imagine the time put into just the paint alone
I recommend using hydraulics instead of pneumatics. Tons of stuff are popping out online for mini hydraulics
Glad to see you getting back into this one. I'm not sure, you may have addressed this before. Are your hoses leaking? Can you run nitro fuel line as a more sealed alternative? Does the manufacturer have a more powerful pump or struts? You may have already been down that road, either way your content is awesome, keep up the great work.
I second or third the idea of trying to get some zip ties really tight on your air hose; see if that will keep it from leaking down. If it will hold the weight with the air lines clamped tight, you could just use a single servo to help lift the rear but not old the weight, a bit like the throttle and brake on a gas or nitro RC. Just a push rod with a stop in the middle and nothing on the end. The stop only touches the axle when aired down, when aired up, the is no load on the servo.
yes lipo is the way
Servo with a servo saver or just a push plate that only helps the lift but not the support maybe?
I wonder if you can add another set of shocks to raise the load? Custom installation because one set does what it's designed to do but a second set would add the needed power to lift the load.
can you double the air shocks in the rear? that should help with packing so many springs in each shock.
Can you run an external BEC and over or the pump a bit. I’m guessing the receiver has between 5-6 volts. You could try to up it a few volts using a BEC.
thats a good idea also
You should also try the capo air ride system
Hey man, any way you could add a servo assist in the rear that moves the attachment point for the air shocks? That way when it's empty you can move the servo linkage and lay frame but raise it back up when it's loaded, this would be an entirely separate system from the air suspension so it won't interfere with that. Hopefully I'm conveying properly what I have in my head lol.
Depending which way you need the assist servo to move maybe you could use a one way bearing on it
Yes
What if you expoy the ends of the tubes to the air output? That could stop the air from leaking.
Maybe if you use springs from a pump bottle or soap dispenser👍👍
lOOK INTO MOUNTING THE SPRINGS ON CANTILEVERS FROM A SUMMIT TO SERVOS INSTEAD OF AIR RIDE. THIS WILL ALLOW YOU TO HAVE MUCH STIFFER SPRINGS AND CARRY A LOAD BUT YET STILL LAY FRAME.
Maybe add a 3rd or 4th air shock to the rear?
Have you thought about a bec for the air?
Love ur videos keep up the great work!!!
I had an idea, could u make a bracket off the rear suspension behind the diff for another air shock and canaleaver and pivot a small like anti drag tire off the last cross member???
Just get 60A they're just as cheap. Becuae they're mass produce.
They have a fan. So it wont run hot...so you can run 2S-3S lipo.
I use it with 2845 ( 3000KV- 3900KV) ( can size) for 1/12
3650-3670 ( 3000KV - 3900KV) for 1/10 .
Sort of like getting standard size servo are cheaper than getting micro servo.
just check...if the truck goes faster in reverse....swap the 2 outside wires.
You so be able to do 35-40 mph..easy...depending on your gearing.
it's plenty of 2s with decent C ratings...
A decent 2s lipo with higher C rating will have more power than 3s with lower
C ratings...
some of my 1/12 do over 45 mph..becuase they're light and gearing...on 3s 45C.
on the 60A. Your trucks are more 1/10 size and heavier ( 3670...2600KV..there about)
so you'll get motor torque without over heating the motor.
You dont want to over heat brushless motors..it'll melt the glue (short the motor)
Over heating...cuase the magnets to get weaker.
You definitly dont want to over heat the ESC.
It's sort of pain in the arss...at first to understand Brushless...
but it's actaully simple....MOTOR size is the key...KV can vari for the same
motors size....View it as GEARING..Sort of like matching the proper prop and KV
to an airframe....if you want more torque..lower KV...Higher KV are for
lighter models.
The 2845 3100 KV on my 1/12 truck ..goes faster than the 3900KV.
It has more power than a 550 brushed....
They're all around $20-$25 p/motor.....The 60A esc are only $15.
You're start having tire wear or balloon issues from 45 mph and above.
You need to get a programming card...to program the esc.
I use 4076 2250KV or 4092 1600KV 120A esc 4S 50C for my 1/8 buggies or MT...they do 50 mph ish but they're 9-12 lb AUW
What if you transfer the airride to another project and use a servo setup to raise and lower it
What if you made a system on the bed where another pair of air shocks is connected to the bed and lifts the bed and helps lift the load
Have you ever thought of doing a Bruder excavator? i think you could do an awesome one :)
Hi, could you use metal tube and only use flexible tubing for the bits that need to move?.
Have you checked the voltage / amperage going to the air pump to see if you may need a separate battery for the air pump ?
Loving the truck! is the rear sitting too high empty because its set too high empty? might need to adjust the springs holding it at low setting empty
suburban 1990 $$$$
if its like my capo there air bags needs to be sealed by tightening down bolt on bottom of bladder
could you point me in the direction of the Ramp body? Anything I google nightcralwers gives me actual nightcrawlers lol
nightcrawlers3d.com/
Bro have you tried a throttle mix?
you should get the demon sg4 by cross rc i love that ruck
is it possible to reroute the air so the front system adds to the back through a T?
How did u do that
Have you considered hydraulic?
I have question could u possibly help me with dimensions of the ramp truck bed
21x9 inch 4.25 tall in the front and 1.25 in the tail
@@RCeveryday thanks man I'm gonna build on for my 55 Chevy I'm building km rank truck will be a lil bigger lol video of my 55 is on my channel
Maybe you can use a electric acuater to help I don't know how you could do it but im sure your more knowledgeable to figure it out
what scale is your garage built in?!
It’s around 1/10 scale
why use air when u could use a 25kg servo and be instant
If it was me I would say screw this and make at one set height
Where can I get a air ride system ?
As of now these kits are not made. CapoRC made a similar setup but was even more expensive.
- are you selling any of ur builds?
Not currently. I really never sell the scratch builds
Can you not make it hydraulic instead of air
Scale Hydraulic systems are out there from places like RC4wd, but it gets expensive fast. I priced a setup from them and was almost $800 in parts. Plus most of the available hydraulic cylinders are pretty long and could not fit very well under the body
Hmmmmmmm