C4 Corvette Valve Cover Gaskets and Grommet install
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 มิ.ย. 2022
- In this video, I install new valve cover gaskets and grommets while I check the rocker arm movement to eliminate a possible issue with my 1994 C4 Corvette.
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Had the same problem … after warm-up …mine was a fuel injector… switched them out now runs perfect!
I wish mine had been that easy!! Glad to hear that you were able to get yours running! I am hopeful that next season mine will be up and running after a complete engine rebuild!
Mine does the same thing now, I’ve changed almost everything on it except the TPS it’s a 1986 corvette, I’ll change that out & if it’s not it I’ll have to do the last thing, injectors, unless you have a better suggestion.
I wish that I did! I will be replacing my ECU when I put the engine back in...really will not know if that was my issue until then.
Unfortunately, a lot of people seem to have this issue with the C4 and there are multiple things that could be the issue. 😒
I replaced my ECU & it still does the same, so it might fix your problem but if not then you know it’s not the ECU anymore, also if you are replacing the ECU remember to replaced the ThermoMaster Computer Chip/Module that clips inside the ECU.
@@apl.2018 oh no! I definitely did not want to read that!
Awesome video. I definitely need this done also, not to bad, a little extra work removing the alternator.
Nice of Mr Pip to recommend a break for you.
Willing to bet my parts are originals also😱
Yeah, Mr. Pip wanted me to take a break! ❤️
@@Amundred I'm guessing he's the Boss man!🐶
@@geneyus6411 of course! 😂
@@Amundred Nobody contacted you about your data logs?
@@geneyus6411 unfortunately, no 😢
Interesting, many words I don't know
😂
What should you torque the 4 cover bolts to? Or how far should you tighten them?
I will double check when I get home, but I think it was only like 7 or 8 ft/lbs
@@Amundred thank you!
@@Lmaow-bc8ym The service manual shows 100 inch/pounds of torque which is roughly 8 foot/pounds (or 11 Nm) 👍
@@Amundred thank you so much for the help!!
@@Amundred did my valve cover today! Video helped a lot and went through it all again and I must of skipped the part when you mentioned the torque spec in the video😅😅
You have complained about a miss when you try to rev the engine. I had a 400 Pontiac engine that had the same problem, even though I rebuilt the engine. All the valves were working properly, and the engine idled perfectly. Taking a closer look with the valve cover off, I discovered a broken valve spring that wasn't visible at first. This engine had double valve springs per valve. A weak valve spring or a broken spring will make the valve work at idle but will not keep up with increased RPM. The valve will basically float, not opening or closing properly.
I'll be sure to double check the springs!
I'm working on the C-3 1977, it's easy compared to the C-4. The C-3 was sitting for about 6 years before I found it. It's a SB 400, 425 hp. I took it for a rip before I start to clean it up. Damn it's a hand full, The motor was gone through before it was parked, so not a complete tear down, just new gaskets and carbs. I think I will use it for Power Tour next year. When are you going to drop your exhaust? to see if it's the cats?
I may end up doing that next week to be honest. That should be pretty simple to do! That may be my video for next Friday!
@@Amundred I once had a old VW that when it warmed up it would start running like crap, when I tore it down, I found it had a cracked head. Just a thought. So if it's not the Cats, and you do a compression test, do it when the motor is warm.
As I mentioned in an earlier post, I have had 4 C4 as a daily driver with over 400K miles driven. I have a 96 now and so far knock on wood have been able to fix the little problems that pop up on a car 26 years old. That long plastic air pipe you pulled out on the passenger side when you pulled the valve cover caused me problems. It backed out just enough to vent the system, caused the engine to run rough…only found it when touching everything checking wires and hoses….could not see that it backed out.. Anyway, sounds like your engine runs fine just after start while in “open loop” computer using programed data. Once the engine is warm enough the computer changes to “closed loop” where it now controls fuel/air flow based on data returned from the sensors. I could not find a list of what sensors are bypassed (except the O2 sensors) when in the cold “open loop” phase. I know you changed out the O2 sensors, can’t remember if you changed out all 4 (there are 4 on my 96). I read one suggestion that said disconnect a sensor (in this case the O2 sensor) and see if the engine improves. If so, maybe a O2 to computer wiring problem or maybe one of the new O2 sensors also bad… I would think a wiring problem would through a code but it is a very fast check. Worth a try.
That would be a very quick check and I was positive that it was an O2 sensor originally! I didn't think about a potentially bad O2 wire.
@@Amundred All 4 O2 heaters are fed from fuse #6 labeled 02 SEN 15amp in the engine compartment. I read one post with a rough running engine where he pulled this fuse and it clear up immediately. Again worth a try…I think the heaters are only needed until the exhaust heats up..not sure how this works but easy to check.
One other thing. I have never seen this but a quick check. See if any spark plugs wires cross each other or are very close together. I guess it is possible for the spark to jump wires. Would look like screwed timing.
@@---Wade--- this has been checked 👍
@@---Wade--- that would be a really quick check! I will have to do that!
One component that works with the O2 sensors to set fuel mixture is the ECM Coolant Sensor. When I had a rough idle I thought that might be the cause and I replaced mine. Turned out to be a vacuum leak and not related. But I have read a failure of this sensor could cause the ECM to go to full rich or full lean. It is easy to get to, on or by the water pump. There are two coolant temp sensors, one to the ECM and one to the engine temp gauge. I like the suggestion I read where a guy said to just disconnect each sensor and see if the problem improves. Makes sense to me and I will try that the next time I have engine issues. If you replace it no need to drain the coolant. Just have the new sensor in your hand when you make the last few turns on the threads on the old one and put the new one into the hole and thread it in. I put a pan below and just a bit of coolant was lost. I also bought a vacuum hose kit and replaced some of that plastic vacuum lines...breaks very easy. That is when I found my vacuum leak problem.
I actually changed both sensors when I swapped out the Optispark last...it is in my last video where I do the opti, water temp sensors, and thermostat! I thought that it could potentially be the sensors as well so replaced them the last time I did the Opti! It is rather interesting that there are all of these sensor-related issues that can cause the car to run as it does right now. O.o
I used to really like the LT1... but now I see why they get swapped to LSx so often!
@@Amundred If I were troubleshooting it I would want to know for sure if it runs good in open loop (cold) and then when the ECU kicks it into closed loop that, that causes the problem. To see if this is true, I have read that disconnecting the O2 sensors will keep the ECU in open loop. I have also read that just pulling the connecting wire to ECU water temp sensor will keep the ECU in open loop. This sounds true since this is the only way the ECU knows the temp. I would pull the lead to temp sensor and drive the car. If this does not make it operate better then you know it is not related to just the switch to closed loop. Then maybe check the fuel pressure with the car being driven. I have never had to do this but some say you can connect a pressure gauge and run it up by the outside of the windshield. I know you said you changed out the fuel pump. I had to replace my fuel level sending unit and changed out the fuel pump with it. The car then required a long crank to start. 5 seconds or so. I changed back to my original pump and back to normal. Some things just make no sense.
I'm an old farm boy...have seen bad running tractor engines due to a bad load of gas.
@@---Wade--- I will give this a try...I have a list of things to try right now and may just do one video with a bunch of these as a troubleshooting video to upload! Thanks for the suggestions!
What exactly is an ECM?
Do you mean ECT??
@@geneyus6411 Engine Control Module 👍
I didn't realize you had your Mr Pip merch line going. Any good sales?
The mug looks cool!
I just made the Mr. Pip merch...so we will see what happens!
@@Amundred Neat, I will probably purchase a mug!
I noticed it showed different tiers when ordering??? What's that about??
@@Amundred To bad it's not a real picture of Pips, it's more like a cartoon drawing.
@@geneyus6411 I can do a real pic of him too...🐶
@@Amundred That would be more realistic. Does everyone even know Mr Pip??🐏
You have ads now???
Ugh!😡
I think I have always had ads? Or maybe it is because I hit 500 subscribers and can start a Community now?
Either way...I am excited about the 500 Subscribers!!!! Thank you everyone!!!! 🥰🥰🥰
@@Amundred You never had ads!
But yes, you're snowballing subscribers now! Awesomeness