I think it's due to the fact that the k24 has many restrictions that can be improved upon where as some performance engines already have factory parts that are already decent to begin with.
Miss my CL9. Did 50,000 trouble free kms in it. So well built and they're still a nice looking car. Never cared about the performance, reliability is most important to me.
@@bign1667 I got reflash from Sergebo's partner in England, I sent him the ECU. I bought headers and hfc direct from Sergebo. total cost in the UK was £740 GBP. Fitting the headers and HFC cost me about £100GBP
Oh tbh it's more I happened to have an empty tank when I shot the 0-100 clip of mine, and this owner happened to have a decent amount in it. Truth be told tho 40L of fuel difference is like 30kgs. With a manual driver skill will have more of an impact
bro been watching for awhile keep up the good work im looking at buying my dads cl9 off him soon its only done 120,000 on the clock and is very fun to drive and i learnt to drive in it.
I'm surpirsed how much performance can be gained from that K24. I own a CN1, which is the "same" car but with a 2.2 diesel engine which performs quite well. But I'm sure that if I would buy a petrol version of this car it needs to be a K24 and of course, do some of the mods you talk about. Congratulations.
@@KiwiCarLife You forgot the labor costs. And your 6MT modification is probably your biggest gain, and also the most expensive i rekon. Care to share what that bloody thing cost you in the end? :D
@@The_Noticer. Headers, exhaust and intake you can easily install yourself. Reflash the labour is included in the price. And while the gears have made a difference to the 0-100 time, in a rolling race, the speed difference is negligible as it's not "technically" making any more power. Cost all up was around $2500NZD.
@@meiji9720 Nah engine was well warmed up don't you worry haha - I am very very careful with my car when it's cold. Tbh no idea, plenty of other flybys it didn't do it. I just put that one in coz it's kinda funny haha
Mine is a semi auto. Sport intake from a tsx,reflash,lowered a bit.Thinking about puting a 4-2-1 exaust after i get lighter rims. In the future and maybe a forged intake header from skunk alongside the 4-2-1. Right now it s about 7.8 sec 0-100. The torque converter helps a lot in a straight line since i lose a lot less power when i shift in manual mode. Thx for your videos!
Such a shame where I live that Honda doesn't sell, or wasn't sold much. No love for them at all. So, I'm likely stuck with the CU1, and considering what i put in that one in terms of entertainment, and what i'd lose if I sold it at the price the market accepts here, i'd lose 7-8K easily. And then I still have to import a car at insane prices atm, and then modify it. Best course of action for me is to just slap an R18 turbokit on it, and modify the downpipe. Honda Tuning specialist I went by yesterday said 250-275 is do-able on stock engine. Coming from 156 that's zippy enough for me :D
@@KiwiCarLife Yeah they are quite available. And the amount of space available is much better than the Civic the R18 kits are made for. So the shop expected little problems adapting the kit. And it has forged pistonrods and pistonjets. It can take the boost up to a point, the 5AT can take about 8psi of boost. And the boosted engine will have the torque to pull the 3400 curbweight boat, where the NA engine just falls short. The CL9 is about 2900/3000 i think? Much lighter..
@@KiwiCarLife Awesome, I think that's next for my "sleeper" work car. I found a dirty 2004 CL9 (hadn't been cleaned in years) with under 70K on the clock (its now at around 77K) The car has cleaned up amazingly well. It looks super new inside and out. There is something about these models that clean up so well. I was lucky to find one at a good price with such low Kms. A pulley kit lightens the load on the AC belt and alternator. If the belt that runs electrics on the car is lightened then that power goes directly to the wheels and frees up a bit of additional load on the motor so in theory should provide a slight fuel economy boost as well as extra power. You might like to look into it 🙂
Hey if I get to Wellington I want to you review my Golf 4 to show those wo don't know why Volkswagen has a cult following. You will show enjoy it. It's normally VR6. Really love your videos. Funny fact. My car is tuned over 2 years ago but I have never redlined it.
Are you still using the standard CL9 clutch? is it still light or is the clutch you're using now heavier after the type r gearset installation? Also I'd love to see your modified cl9 euro go up against a euro R , would be an interesting matchup
Howsit bud? I come to you from South Africa and I drive a CL9 Accord Executive as it's called this side of the world. I have headers, cold air induction and reflash. I really wanna do the gearset too but interestingly, the guys this side swaps either everything - including the final drive - or they fit 1 - 5 and keep the 6th gear but do 4.7 final drive. My question is - did you fit the K20 flywheel and clutch as well or did you stick to the K24 clutch and flywheel?
@@KiwiCarLife awesome man! A lot of guys this side also opt just for K20 clutch, flywheel and 5:1 final drive. I have the same reservations as you about that 1st to 2nd gear and the length between the two, so I would much rather swap out the entire gearset and not just final drive
FL model doesn't add any more performance so not much point if you only care about modification potential. Watch this video if you wanna know the differences: th-cam.com/video/g2rS3DOS19U/w-d-xo.html
@@KiwiCarLife Yea, that newer trip computer would have been nice to have. But the one I got, is really well equipped anyhow. Also, these cars in Sweden have been skyrocketing in price soo :D
Those gears did some good for your bank account balance eh? I'm gonna need a vid on how many miles it takes driving with those gears until it's worth it 😉
Just about to get a reflash on my stock cu2, what are your thoughts on reflashing just the stock car. I know that the CU2 doesnt get as much as a change as the CL7/9 but do you think it would be worth it? Im not too worried about redline increase, or two step just wanting a bit of extra power and lower v-tec.
Hey, I'm seriously intrigued. I have a cu2 and want to know what my tuning options are. Is there a way to refresh it without an unlocked ecu? Or dyno tune it?
@@Motorhead225 the housing is the same, and yeah I guess a “simple” bolt in job? Watch my video on it - search type r gearset in accord euro it’ll come up
Do you know if it's possible to change ratios in an auto similar to what you did? I've looked at a few sites but can't find anything. The auto is more useful for me being a daily in stop start traffic....
If you want an auto for daily stop start driving that's still fun on weekends, get the 4th generation Subaru Liberty 3.0L with the flappy paddle auto. It shifts nice and fast and if you want harder shifts it's easily modded with electronics/software. Plus the AWD is much nicer in traffic as you can launch (easy to get it right with the auto too) from red lights to get in front for a lane change when needed. But mechanically it's just an old school auto, not an expensive to fix double clutch deal like a Golf R.
when you drive your accord at the end i don't if it's it but i can hear springy sound when you press the clutch, like the springs seems tos be old or smth like that, do you know what it can be and are you having these sounds when pressing in clutch or am i imagining already? :D
Bro, how did you not get any wheel spin off of first gear?!!! also you're doing 0-60 mph in 5.5 seconds!!!!!! I have a slightly modded 2005 V6 3.0 Camry and my best on the vbox was 7.0 sec 0-60 mph!! and i thought that was super fast lol
Yeah or it's in my type r gearset install video. It's not really about the length of the gear but more the difference between them. Type r first is longer and 2nd is shorter which makes that gear change much easier
Hey quick question, when you did the 0-100 comparison i noticed during takeoff the stock ones dash kinda bounced or jumped abit but yours didnt. I'm having the same issue where when i get wheelspin in 1st gear my dash does the same thing the stock one did. Is this because of my engine mounts or is could it because your car has a type r gearset so it has lsd and doesn't do it? Thanks
hello kiwicarlife i have a 2010 2.0 honda accord not modified what so ever but i raced with 2.4 luxury and i won lol don't ask me how (some other 2.4 beat me tho i don't win most of the time ) i wanted to ask since i have automatic gear box if i break and press full throttle and then release the breaks for a better start does it affect the car ? like does it do any damage to the gear or engine or something ? please i have looked everywhere and couldn't find an answer
hey, wouldnt the 65kg difference of the lux as well as the fuel tank of around 40kg change the response+ accel of the stock euro? thats around 100kg, that can reduce power to weight considerably? ive just purchased an 06 lux, its pulling just under 8 seconds to 100. With a reflash, headers exhaust and CAI it still wouldnt be as quick!
Honestly, 100kg is like 6% if the weight of these cars. It'd be like having a passenger all the time. It's barely enough to notice the difference. Also they are both the base models with no leather in this video so only the fuel was the difference, however mine also has heavier wheels, and the sports and flow designs kits so I reckon they'd weigh about the same
@@mart673g easiest to buy a full set of all 6. There'll be someone selling one I'm sure. I found that mixing and matching just caused installation issues
2nd is so long because it needs to hit 100km/h at redline in 2nd to get the maximum stats to sell the car. The Type R 2nd gear is shorter by the same amount as a Type R's redline is higher. If you flashed your ECU back to stock the car would be slower than the stock one despite the gearbox and plumbing mods.
Next time have your car with a full tank of fuel ;) Having the stock car with a full tank and your own car with the fuel light on isn't a fair comparison lol.
530i doesn't have a chance in straight line . I'm talking about if the honda is reflashed. I've droven 330i e91 258ps and it felt sluggish than a Honda and + it's heavier. (330xi automatic)
@@ayo88383 well there's your problem: 330xi E91 automatic... get in a 6mt 330i E90 N52 and the honda won't stand a chance. It's 150kW vs 200kW. The awd wagon auto is heavy and has more drivetrain losses
@@ayo88383 I see. However, you must have forgotten the the 2003 BMW e39 530i sedan finished in a lovely titan silver colour and equipped with the M54b30 and ZF 5HP-19 automatic transmission and 18 inch style 37 M parallel wheels is the best car ever made in the history of all cars.
Have you thought about changing the head with a k20 type R head so the engine is sort of a "hybrid" with a k24 block with a k20 head? I've seen some people do it, and I'm thinking about doing that to mine too.
Tbh I'm happy with the power it has atm and this is rapidly becoming an incredibly expensive project... I think I'll do intake manifold, dyno tune and call it a day. I'll be getting diminishing returns with each increasing mod from here on out
@@KiwiCarLife Smart man. Enjoy these vids. Whilst I'm 50yo and more enjoy the luxury side of this sporty mid sized sedan, I (and my 20yo son) appreciate your mods. I own a ND MX-5, whilst son has a stock '07 Euro tourer. I lusted after an Accord Euro when the kids were newborn but opted for the utility of a Honda Jazz. I'm happier driving the Euro and so my son has swapped me for the MX-5 whilst living away at Uni. He thinks it's a great deal! (and so do I). My brother owned an '03 lux for 10yrs, then an '09 thereafter. I'm not a fan of the Gen2 Euro at all. Sweet spot is '06-'07 for me in either spec or transmission.
That's pretty good i didn't realize you could make that many gains off a naturally aspirated engine.
Oh yeah man it hauls
I think it's due to the fact that the k24 has many restrictions that can be improved upon where as some performance engines already have factory parts that are already decent to begin with.
Most Honda NA cars are like this
Honda is technologically the greatest
Miss my CL9. Did 50,000 trouble free kms in it. So well built and they're still a nice looking car. Never cared about the performance, reliability is most important to me.
@@motleydude73 how good!
Great vid bro. I got mine reflashed, fitted headers and HFC too. Huge difference over stock. Hopefully I can get a turbo soon!
How much should one budget to do the same?
@@bign1667 I got reflash from Sergebo's partner in England, I sent him the ECU. I bought headers and hfc direct from Sergebo. total cost in the UK was £740 GBP. Fitting the headers and HFC cost me about £100GBP
@@mrwaqy yeah that all sounds about right
I think we have to note a cheeky little thing you've done here Liam. Overfilled tank on the stock one versus a petrol light empy tank on yours hahaha.
Oh tbh it's more I happened to have an empty tank when I shot the 0-100 clip of mine, and this owner happened to have a decent amount in it. Truth be told tho 40L of fuel difference is like 30kgs. With a manual driver skill will have more of an impact
bro been watching for awhile keep up the good work im looking at buying my dads cl9 off him soon its only done 120,000 on the clock and is very fun to drive and i learnt to drive in it.
Nice man! Would recommend
I would recommend this option!
@@KiwiCarLife i forgot to say its manual and i would love to put headers and tune it as a nice small project but what else make big power difference?
@@bubblesidfk6318 Absolutely. Do it!
Channel is pure gold
Thanks!
Damn that's a huge difference, looks like my cl9 is getting some headers and a reflash soon :) Great video!
Haha yep would recommend
@@KiwiCarLife If i reflash my car and install the headers after, do i have to reflash it again?
perfect as usual!
Thanks man!
I'm surpirsed how much performance can be gained from that K24. I own a CN1, which is the "same" car but with a 2.2 diesel engine which performs quite well. But I'm sure that if I would buy a petrol version of this car it needs to be a K24 and of course, do some of the mods you talk about. Congratulations.
Cheers and yeah the old K24 has some solid potential
Wow…didn’t expect that much of a difference but wow
Yeah it's pretty zippy
This video has created me a problem. Now I want short gear ratios on my cl9 too lol
Haha yes it makes a big difference
@@KiwiCarLife also in your pocket lol.
Nice channel, thanks for your videos, greetings from Spain!!
These mods needs to be done on my accord I feel slow now haha
Prepare to spend many thousands of dollars. They do not come cheap.
Headers: $700
Exhaust: $1100
Reflash: $450
Intake: $200
$2500 bucks and you'll be making 30kW over stock
Well wallet is gonna be empty for a long time
@@KiwiCarLife You forgot the labor costs. And your 6MT modification is probably your biggest gain, and also the most expensive i rekon. Care to share what that bloody thing cost you in the end? :D
@@The_Noticer. Headers, exhaust and intake you can easily install yourself. Reflash the labour is included in the price. And while the gears have made a difference to the 0-100 time, in a rolling race, the speed difference is negligible as it's not "technically" making any more power. Cost all up was around $2500NZD.
Your car is straight up goals hahaha
Haha cheers
So awesome!
Cheers
Loving the vids. We NEED to go for a drive sometime!
Keen bro!
Best comparison vid to date! What’s up with the white puff of smoke at 6:31? No hate
Probably drove on a cold engine
@@meiji9720 Nah engine was well warmed up don't you worry haha - I am very very careful with my car when it's cold. Tbh no idea, plenty of other flybys it didn't do it. I just put that one in coz it's kinda funny haha
Mine is a semi auto. Sport intake from a tsx,reflash,lowered a bit.Thinking about puting a 4-2-1 exaust after i get lighter rims. In the future and maybe a forged intake header from skunk alongside the 4-2-1. Right now it s about 7.8 sec 0-100. The torque converter helps a lot in a straight line since i lose a lot less power when i shift in manual mode. Thx for your videos!
All good man sounds like the build is going nicely
Awesome comparison. It really gives us an idea of what to expect when doing your mods. When's the turbo ?
Haha we'll see...
Sounds like your modified CL9 can beat the CL7 Euro R!
I would believe so
Its enougth only reflash and headers to beat it
@@juliusbalcius8569it need a shot gear ratio gearbox
This was a great video
Thanks man
great video love the way your accord looks and sounds. I'm hoping to make something similar with my 2004 cl9, any suggestion's on what to start with?
I made a video on that, 6 best mods for accord euro
Such a shame where I live that Honda doesn't sell, or wasn't sold much. No love for them at all. So, I'm likely stuck with the CU1, and considering what i put in that one in terms of entertainment, and what i'd lose if I sold it at the price the market accepts here, i'd lose 7-8K easily. And then I still have to import a car at insane prices atm, and then modify it. Best course of action for me is to just slap an R18 turbokit on it, and modify the downpipe. Honda Tuning specialist I went by yesterday said 250-275 is do-able on stock engine. Coming from 156 that's zippy enough for me :D
Yeah if it's available and you have the know how to do it, a turbo kit would be awesome!
@@KiwiCarLife Yeah they are quite available. And the amount of space available is much better than the Civic the R18 kits are made for. So the shop expected little problems adapting the kit. And it has forged pistonrods and pistonjets. It can take the boost up to a point, the 5AT can take about 8psi of boost. And the boosted engine will have the torque to pull the 3400 curbweight boat, where the NA engine just falls short. The CL9 is about 2900/3000 i think? Much lighter..
Would you say headers has a greater improvement than a pulley kit?
What's a pulley kit? If we're talking n/a then yes. Headers gain 10-15kW
@@KiwiCarLife Awesome, I think that's next for my "sleeper" work car.
I found a dirty 2004 CL9 (hadn't been cleaned in years) with under 70K on the clock (its now at around 77K) The car has cleaned up amazingly well. It looks super new inside and out.
There is something about these models that clean up so well. I was lucky to find one at a good price with such low Kms.
A pulley kit lightens the load on the AC belt and alternator. If the belt that runs electrics on the car is lightened then that power goes directly to the wheels and frees up a bit of additional load on the motor so in theory should provide a slight fuel economy boost as well as extra power.
You might like to look into it 🙂
2.4s drop for 0-60 is good drop. Maybe I should’ve modded my cl9 before I sold it. But it was an AT
Even with AT they still respond well to mods
You can provide a link to this splitter under the front bumper :)
flowdesignsaustralia.com/collections/honda-accord-euro-cl7-cl9/products/honda-accord-euro-cl7-cl9-front-splitter-v3
Hey if I get to Wellington I want to you review my Golf 4 to show those wo don't know why Volkswagen has a cult following. You will show enjoy it. It's normally VR6. Really love your videos. Funny fact. My car is tuned over 2 years ago but I have never redlined it.
Could be keen! Always liked the mk4 R32
I’m fairly late but how has it held up in terms of reliability? Great videos
Still going! Mines on 200k and the blue one is on 300k
@@KiwiCarLife that’s amazing, definitely makes the mods worth it 😍
Are you still using the standard CL9 clutch? is it still light or is the clutch you're using now heavier after the type r gearset installation?
Also I'd love to see your modified cl9 euro go up against a euro R , would be an interesting matchup
And clutch, feels identical to before. And yeah I'm just having difficulty finding people to film with
Yes I really want to see your car vs an cl7 euro r
Howsit bud? I come to you from South Africa and I drive a CL9 Accord Executive as it's called this side of the world. I have headers, cold air induction and reflash.
I really wanna do the gearset too but interestingly, the guys this side swaps either everything - including the final drive - or they fit 1 - 5 and keep the 6th gear but do 4.7 final drive.
My question is - did you fit the K20 flywheel and clutch as well or did you stick to the K24 clutch and flywheel?
Hey man, stock flywheel and clutch. No need to replace as my clutch is in good shape and the gains are minimal. Only do it if your clutch is worn out
@@KiwiCarLife awesome man! A lot of guys this side also opt just for K20 clutch, flywheel and 5:1 final drive. I have the same reservations as you about that 1st to 2nd gear and the length between the two, so I would much rather swap out the entire gearset and not just final drive
Yeah definitely. Only swapping out FD won't give you too many gains unfortunately.
@@KiwiCarLife bro howsit? Any chance of you doing a 400m timed run with the Accord?
@@anrichlucas9425 would love to but that'll require reaching some very illegal speeds to probably not...
Where did you get the front grill thing to replace the silver line grill thing
I bought it off a wrecker so I don't know where to buy one exactly. I believe it's a type s grille
@@KiwiCarLife cool 🙏🏽
Right now I have a 2004 Accord Euro 2.4 executive. Is it worth trying to get a facelift model or should I modify the one I have? :/
FL model doesn't add any more performance so not much point if you only care about modification potential. Watch this video if you wanna know the differences:
th-cam.com/video/g2rS3DOS19U/w-d-xo.html
@@KiwiCarLife Yea, that newer trip computer would have been nice to have. But the one I got, is really well equipped anyhow. Also, these cars in Sweden have been skyrocketing in price soo :D
Those gears did some good for your bank account balance eh? I'm gonna need a vid on how many miles it takes driving with those gears until it's worth it 😉
Lol check the latest one
Just about to get a reflash on my stock cu2, what are your thoughts on reflashing just the stock car. I know that the CU2 doesnt get as much as a change as the CL7/9 but do you think it would be worth it? Im not too worried about redline increase, or two step just wanting a bit of extra power and lower v-tec.
Yeah I'd say it's worth it. Makes a bit more mid range torque
Just change the headlights and tail lights in LED and it will be awesome 👌 👏
Yeah thinking about doing that maybe
@@KiwiCarLife could you please let me know where you get those done?
Hey, I'm seriously intrigued. I have a cu2 and want to know what my tuning options are. Is there a way to refresh it without an unlocked ecu? Or dyno tune it?
Hit up @kflash_nz on instagram
Woooow that gearbox is amazing! From which car is it?
Cl7 euro r
Was it a simple bolt in job or are the housing different. @@KiwiCarLife
@@Motorhead225 the housing is the same, and yeah I guess a “simple” bolt in job? Watch my video on it - search type r gearset in accord euro it’ll come up
What type r did you get the gear sets from? Did you change the 4.7 final drive to the 5.06? Cheers
Dc5 and nah still 4.3fd
@@KiwiCarLife do you mean 4.7? Cheers
@@seangallagher3865 4.3 is accord euro stock fd, 4.7 is most type r's and 5.1 is FD2 type r
Do you know if it's possible to change ratios in an auto similar to what you did? I've looked at a few sites but can't find anything.
The auto is more useful for me being a daily in stop start traffic....
If you want an auto for daily stop start driving that's still fun on weekends, get the 4th generation Subaru Liberty 3.0L with the flappy paddle auto. It shifts nice and fast and if you want harder shifts it's easily modded with electronics/software. Plus the AWD is much nicer in traffic as you can launch (easy to get it right with the auto too) from red lights to get in front for a lane change when needed. But mechanically it's just an old school auto, not an expensive to fix double clutch deal like a Golf R.
@@IOUaUsername can't change ratios on the auto unfortunately. Legacy 3.0r would be good however not the best on fuel
8:05 did you have traction control on or off?
Off
when you drive your accord at the end i don't if it's it but i can hear springy sound when you press the clutch, like the springs seems tos be old or smth like that, do you know what it can be and are you having these sounds when pressing in clutch or am i imagining already? :D
I think it might have just been my shoes squeaking on the rubber
Where did you get that lipkit? Could it fit on a CN1 Accord?
Flow designs, and yep it can fit on any first gen accord euro
Bro, how did you not get any wheel spin off of first gear?!!! also you're doing 0-60 mph in 5.5 seconds!!!!!! I have a slightly modded 2005 V6 3.0 Camry and my best on the vbox was 7.0 sec 0-60 mph!! and i thought that was super fast lol
Good tyres make all the difference bro, and a bit of finesse on the clutch
@@KiwiCarLife You think I should invest in tires? I have 15 inch 5 spoke rims that I really like, do you think I can find good tires for them ?
So stock acceleration is 8.2s and modified 5.8s.Thats really quick.How many hp you gain?How much you spent to get it that fast?
Stock 190hp, I estimate about 240hp crank atm
can you do second gear pull from 20-100 kmh? Wanna measure 30-100 mine does it in just under 6.2sec.
I can - could I send it to you on insta?
How much lower is the Type R second gear? If it's like a 5% difference, I'll just get lower profile tyres lol.
Look up k series transmission charts, all the info is there.
Yeah or it's in my type r gearset install video. It's not really about the length of the gear but more the difference between them. Type r first is longer and 2nd is shorter which makes that gear change much easier
Hi. So when you added your lowering springs did you change The strut ?
Nah
Hey quick question, when you did the 0-100 comparison i noticed during takeoff the stock ones dash kinda bounced or jumped abit but yours didnt. I'm having the same issue where when i get wheelspin in 1st gear my dash does the same thing the stock one did. Is this because of my engine mounts or is could it because your car has a type r gearset so it has lsd and doesn't do it? Thanks
Nah my CL9 was open diff too. It's more tyres I'd say. Some tyres just spin, others axle tramp, others put down all the power with no issues
@@KiwiCarLife Yeah maybe its my tyres. I put 245's on my car but i dont think they're the problem because it would still do it with the original 225's
how do we install lips that have fog light holes to that stock accord?
I dunno just stick it on
@@KiwiCarLife my bad i mean those half bumper lips 😂 not those stick on lips under the bumper, euro r bumper style lip
@@alipatefaoa2994 yeah it like bolts or sticks on... It's no different whether it has fog lights or not
Can what gearbox you used and how much.
I bought a DC5 Type R internal gearset and put it in the stock Accord manual gearbox. They're interchangeable
@@KiwiCarLife I bet thats the only option aswell. Crazy money here in the UK
Hey, are these cars generally reliable? Or will I have to spend tons of money repairing things? Cheers
They're pretty reliable yeah. I've had no issues with mine
hello kiwicarlife i have a 2010 2.0 honda accord not modified what so ever but i raced with 2.4 luxury and i won lol don't ask me how (some other 2.4 beat me tho i don't win most of the time )
i wanted to ask since i have automatic gear box if i break and press full throttle and then release the breaks for a better start does it affect the car ? like does it do any damage to the gear or engine or something ? please i have looked everywhere and couldn't find an answer
Yeah doing that is called a brake boost or torque boost. It won't do anything bad if you don't hold it there too long
hey, wouldnt the 65kg difference of the lux as well as the fuel tank of around 40kg change the response+ accel of the stock euro? thats around 100kg, that can reduce power to weight considerably? ive just purchased an 06 lux, its pulling just under 8 seconds to 100. With a reflash, headers exhaust and CAI it still wouldnt be as quick!
on a side note! my 06 lux does not shift into first unless around 5kms, not sure whats wrong! if youve got any pointers lemme know :)
Honestly, 100kg is like 6% if the weight of these cars. It'd be like having a passenger all the time. It's barely enough to notice the difference. Also they are both the base models with no leather in this video so only the fuel was the difference, however mine also has heavier wheels, and the sports and flow designs kits so I reckon they'd weigh about the same
How much did you pay for the DC5 Type r gearset in total?
I really want that installed myself😅
$1500
@@KiwiCarLife With the gearset itself?
Do you maybe have a link i Can find the gearset at? It would be really appreciated! :)
@@mart673g it's not something you can just buy from a shop. You'll have to go searching on eBay for a used one
@@KiwiCarLife I see.
But what gears should I need? 1st, 2. 3. 4. Maybe?
@@mart673g easiest to buy a full set of all 6. There'll be someone selling one I'm sure. I found that mixing and matching just caused installation issues
Is that blue car a facelift base model?
Yes
How much cost all of this modifications?
Too much
Can I reflash my 05 auto tsx?
Sure can
2nd is so long because it needs to hit 100km/h at redline in 2nd to get the maximum stats to sell the car. The Type R 2nd gear is shorter by the same amount as a Type R's redline is higher. If you flashed your ECU back to stock the car would be slower than the stock one despite the gearbox and plumbing mods.
Yeah definitely, but in the rolling race you can more than see the difference in speed
Next time have your car with a full tank of fuel ;)
Having the stock car with a full tank and your own car with the fuel light on isn't a fair comparison lol.
The difference in weight is like 40kg - that's like a 2% weight difference. How good the launch is will have more of an effect than fuel
As mentioned that 40kg isn't going to have much impact whatsoever.
Wait a minute... in the video of your car vs the Subaru Legacy 3.0R Your car did 0-100 in 8.0 seconds, how come here it did it in 5.8 ?????
Because in the leggy video it was basically completely stock
@@KiwiCarLife Ohhhh I see, yea that will add a second at least
Does anyone know if the reflash is worth it with no mods?
Yeah for sure, gives more revs, better throttle response and more power
@@KiwiCarLife Thanks man, how's the BMW treating ya?
@@chrisnewton2325 yeah good no issues. Loving it!
530i was present
Oh yes lovely vehicle
530i doesn't have a chance in straight line . I'm talking about if the honda is reflashed. I've droven 330i e91 258ps and it felt sluggish than a Honda and + it's heavier. (330xi automatic)
@@ayo88383 well there's your problem: 330xi E91 automatic... get in a 6mt 330i E90 N52 and the honda won't stand a chance. It's 150kW vs 200kW. The awd wagon auto is heavy and has more drivetrain losses
@@ayo88383 I see. However, you must have forgotten the the 2003 BMW e39 530i sedan finished in a lovely titan silver colour and equipped with the M54b30 and ZF 5HP-19 automatic transmission and 18 inch style 37 M parallel wheels is the best car ever made in the history of all cars.
DC5 Type R Gearset and final drive 4.389 100 km thats 8000 rpm.
Yes
@@KiwiCarLife Why do you have 7800 ?
5 seconds to 100?? how the hell?
Well... 5.8 so more like 6s
Good Peter a friend for you stop that channel
Aye?
Have you thought about changing the head with a k20 type R head so the engine is sort of a "hybrid" with a k24 block with a k20 head? I've seen some people do it, and I'm thinking about doing that to mine too.
Tbh I'm happy with the power it has atm and this is rapidly becoming an incredibly expensive project... I think I'll do intake manifold, dyno tune and call it a day. I'll be getting diminishing returns with each increasing mod from here on out
@@KiwiCarLife I'm interested in seeing what the intake manifold will do with a tune and the cai. Looking forward to that!
@@KiwiCarLife Smart man. Enjoy these vids. Whilst I'm 50yo and more enjoy the luxury side of this sporty mid sized sedan, I (and my 20yo son) appreciate your mods.
I own a ND MX-5, whilst son has a stock '07 Euro tourer. I lusted after an Accord Euro when the kids were newborn but opted for the utility of a Honda Jazz.
I'm happier driving the Euro and so my son has swapped me for the MX-5 whilst living away at Uni. He thinks it's a great deal! (and so do I).
My brother owned an '03 lux for 10yrs, then an '09 thereafter. I'm not a fan of the Gen2 Euro at all. Sweet spot is '06-'07 for me in either spec or transmission.