This is great to find the comparison between the 2 cars. I'm working on a 2.4 Type S CL9, I'm happy I have the hydro power steering & the 2.4 motor over the Euro R's offering.
@@KiwiCarLife little bit over two months of ownership impressions. I’m shocked that a little 2L motor can clock the speedo. As you said, the steering really is numb. I’m not sure if that’s poor alignment or stock suspension but the electronic steering really isn’t it. It’s like I turn hard into a corner but the car wants to do it’s own thing. Otherwise, it’s a good mix between performance and daily car. Love your videos bro. Keep up the awesome work
For your cl9 get a set of stock usdm k24a2 06-08 tsx camshafts. Your vtec engagement will be more pronounced and you will gain more power while retaining oem reliability.
@@KiwiCarLife one thing you haven't done though is fitting the rsp intake manifold onto it . You'll see a massive gain on the midrange and your CAI will absolutely sing.
I have just bought a November 2008 final edition CL7 Euro R and I love it, there great performance cars, and quicker than you might think, by the way the steering in my car is perfect, there must be something wrong with the car you were testing out , drive safe.
Here’s a good video that shows how to replace the knock sensor. It’s located behind the intake manifold next to the starter. th-cam.com/video/Cr_r0OSEUqg/w-d-xo.html As for the IAT, maybe try cleaning the sensor first and then pull the battery to see if the CEL reappears. If that doesn’t work, then likely time to replace it.
I need a bit of clarification Is the Type S just a 2.4 l accord or is it a separate trim? I live in europe and can't find anything on a type-s model for this generation accord. Basically it looks like we just got an accord with 3 engine options 2.0 petrol, 2.4 petrol, 2.2 turbo diesel. Also do accords of this generation have electric steering?
Hey mate i have a accord euro 2005 5spd semi auto the knock off sensor or air intake temp sensor plug pin cud be loose common dam thing plugs become loose prob from heat so they become issues the 1 that bugged me was rhe car run like shit and no cel showing. howevr i diagnosed the issue as broken coolant temp sensor wire or loose plug again you will know if that happens loss POWER no VteC .. Luckily the Handy onboard plug in DIagnostic scan tool connnected to my phone reading data logs and freeze frames ..invest in 1 super handy for basic cel codes etc. I have never put my car into a workshop ever for any reason all home knowledge ... Car now has 260+ks and does rolling 2step powerskids "') .... it would be awesome if we did a comparison with mine i always watch ur videos then go do some tuning to mine apexi vafc stock ecu ?😁 tons of man hours the power output is unknown as yet however it does not hesistate to climb 200+kph i havent met my match yet . IM in the process to gt it tuned but i have no clue as to where Kflash? some one recommended st hitec but i said no thanks due to past issues.. keep it mate Cars getting qwicker Honda k24cl9r 🤓
Hey man, yeah we figured out my knock sensor has died, I'll just get a new one. IAT's aren't actually causing the engine light but it is throwing a code. And yeah I'd be keen to film a video - modified auto vs modified sedan maybe? Hit me up on insta @kiwicarlife.yt if you're keen
The JDM Euro R K20A has 5-9 ft lbs of torque less than the K24A but has a flatter torque curve if I’m not mistaken, more torque at lower RPM. It also weighs about 130 lbs less and has 20 hp more. The JDM CL7 Euro R is an awesome all rounder and has huge value for money in it. Prices are jumping up quite quickly for them now as well.
Yeah stock for stock it's no comparison. Euro R makes more power, has shorter gears, and weighs a little less. I guess what this highlights tho is how much potential the K24 has...
I bought a cl7 accord earlier this year with the K24 it had 245ks still went pretty good considering the ks with no issues but sold it, now have a GTI and in heaps of engine n electronic issues honestly miss the Honda reliability.
Thanks for the comparison video mate. I'm in this exact situation as I'm thinking about importing a CL7R. You mentioned, modified CL9 has better torque, better steering feel (hydraulic) but yet you also mentioned if you can go back 1 year back, you would have bought a CL7R. Could you please explain abit more? Do you know how the steering feel can be improved on a CL7R?
Not really sure how the steering feel can be improved tbh, but yeah it's a case of the CL9 is the better car on paper, but the euro r's engine just has so much zing. It just feels special and unique, whereas the CL9 is just not quite the same. I'm sure with a few mods to increase the redline of the K24 it would be just as good. But there's something to be said for 8600rpm in a family sedan
If you're from new Zealand you cannot import a cl7r because there's no electronic stability control. You'll be waiting for it to be 20 years old to import and by that stage the government will come up with another rule to make it impossible to do so.
@@KiwiCarLife I drive a automatic CL7 K20a6 8400 rpm limited to 180 KM/H and it bothers me so much. 1st cause I know that the engine can give me more cause i get to 180 on the 3rd gear, and really envy those extra 600rpm on the manual Euro R. Yet, the seats on on the auto are just better then the recaro.
We also just got the Type S without the Euro R in SA, That K20 is a gem, but there's no replacement for displacement, the K24 should be a little more reliable
Yeah probably - it's too bad Honda never made a true K24A... Coz they all make more power than the K20 in the long run but you've gotta swap basically every useful K20 bit onto a K24 block to make it work...
Just ordered a knock sensor with wiring kit from speed science. Excellent reviews as in no issues with it, made stronger as well and cheaper than original
Today is one year and about 12k ,kilometers with my CL9 i have updates...Springs,shocks,upgrade and brakes and i blast mine rear stop light.I must go on original :D but she is all fine.Yesterday i seat in my Mg Rover 75 2.5 v6 and im impressed how much cars is different type but good.Rover is perfect but i dont want to sell it and i found Accord think little with ...and i have a two large sedans and Golf 4 2.0b 4 motion because we are in gasoline crise Ithink to Honda goes in garage Rover have mot,Honda yesterday is done...I think of Porsche 964 carrera 2 tiptronik(work in progres) most beatifule Porsch mine is late 94 enterior like 993 but i like 964 because "Californication" and later i buy only coupe
I have a honda accord 2004 model powered by k24a4 engine. What suggestion you can share that i can increase my horsepower or performance by using the same engine ?
No because the whole point was to compare a type s and a euro r with the same power. To get a type s to the same power it needs mods, the euro r doesn't.
Owned the cl9 a few years back, put same new rims on it and a spoiler and the thing looked sick. Plus only issue i had was the battery went out but thats to be wxpected. Pretty reliable.
U gotta put ur car on a dyno to verify the horsepower and torque numbers. I got a stock 6spd manual 04TSX in Canada here. I know you test drove that base CL9 Euro and u thought it was slow as f.....! The TSX has 13more horses and to me its pretty quick. The good thing about the K24 TSX is that it's a great daily driver, very comfortable and u don't have to floor it everytime. Reving up the K20 all the time is tiring.
Yeah I'll get it on the Dyno at some point. Haven't driven a tsx but they seem to be quote different to our euros. Facelift ones with the bigger cam are definitely faster out of the box
By the way, you've done a great job with the mods on the car, looks really cool too. You've pushed the limits responsibly! 5.8secs to 100k is real quick. Turbo or supercharger can be problematic and lots of headaches. I'm a little older now and my mod days are done, but I still enjoy these videos.
Don't have a scanner but I'll take it into work at some point and get it scanned. Part of the issue is that they come and go. It's not on all the time. Usually comes on after a pull when the engine has warmed up, but is never on when it's cold.
Yea that 4th gear race showed the difference. The earlier race, the cl7 would pull in 2nd gear but going into 3rd the k24 just sent it. I thought so too. Why would the k20 pull like that with the same gears? Interesting to see. Definitely want a euro r in the future when it's 2031.
@@KiwiCarLife I see I believe the block is capable of 220ish NA with boltons at the hub (not as accurate as wheels but more so than crank) this was on an 05 auto.
@@lexman8678 your humble opinion is respected but not understood. I think you miss that there is more to a car than just speed and power. A crown athlete is an absolute boat, and it's auto so you don't get the driving enjoyment side of things. Obviously we're all different and clearly your driving enjoyment comes from beating cars in rolling races, which I can agree is fun, but I get my enjoyment from driving a well built, well set up chassis with a high revving 4 banger and great steering with a manual gearbox. Each to their own.
Nice review mate. Love the Euro R. I am struggling between mps3 gen 2 and Euro R, not sure which one to buy. Which one would you reckon? I owned Euro R before and still in love with it. I still like to try something new.
Еврор лучше тем что он сделан для драйва,там на стенках цилиндров спецпокрытие,а на к24нет ,так что еврор будет ездить и ездить перенося большие нагрузки в отличие от к24
Я не понимаю, о чем вы. K24 имеет гораздо больший крутящий момент и лучше переносит более тяжелые нагрузки. Да, Euro R веселее, но K24 объективно лучше, если вы его измените.
Sorry mate I just feel like a racing driver behind the wheel. I didn't get same adrenaline in my type s. Also, In the carribean we mount the k24 bottom end to the k20a top which provides additional torque while maintaining the k20a redline ( Frankenstein k series 😀)
Dyno tune in his Accord is going to require an ECU from an 07-08 model year + the CAN adapter. It’s quite expensive to go down that route unfortunately, but would be great content for the channel.
Not necessarily, the stock ECU is still tuneable, that's how people are able to do reflashes on it. I'll be getting it on a dyno at some point but I'd have to go to Auckland to do it so not till covid blows over
@@KiwiCarLife for the USDM TSX, the 04-06 ECUs can only be reflashed as it’s not supported by Hondata Flashpro and Ktuner. The 07-08 ECU is different and can be used to load custom tunes. Not sure if the ECUs in your region were set up any differently than the US market.
I think the wheel and tyre size on the Euro R are having a negative effect on steering feel....same problem with my Euro R so went back to stock wheels
@@KiwiCarLife the fitment looks really good on the euro r, I assume to get that fitment the wheel setup is staggered and the tyres are wider on the rear compared to the front causing understeer
As for the intake temp and knock, did you re-tune the engine after you had the cold-air intake installed? It could be having trouble with the added flow. As these engines measure the amount of air by intake temp (density) and flow (MAF). Your modification, compared to stock, has a lower temperature and less flow. So it misreads the amount of air going into it. The intake temperature could be one way it would indicate this error, since it doesn't expect the ducting to have changed and it could think the flow is within spec. You can start by reading out the Live data if it's misfiring, or excessively trimming fuel (Long Term/Short Term fuel trims).
@@KiwiCarLife By less flow I mean, the diameter could be higher, and then the air speed is slower. The ECU based on MAF+ITT would think less air is entering, because it's calculating for a different diameter tube and inject the wrong amount of fuel (in this case, too much). It will then maybe spit out this code, i dont know what the scenario for the fault code is, i'd have to look. Usually though, any engine modification you do, requires a retune by a specialist, to remap it for this new intake/exhaust geometry. We are not in the carb days anymore, sadly :)
The SergeBo tune you have was developed to account for a CAI so a retune wouldn’t fix the IAT sensor issue. I would recommend cleaning the IAT or replacing that sensor altogether.
@@vando1267 replacing a sensor based on absolutely no live data analysis is what parts cannon mechanics do. Besides, these days the IAT is combined with the MAF, which is very expensive on a Honda. You verify it with WOT engine efficiency, or idle gr./sec usage if it's out of spec before you start throwing parts at it.... And not every CAI is the same, any change in diameter throws the ECU off.
@@The_Noticer. Good point. It would be wise to hook up a scan tool to confirm if the IAT temperature readings are off before replacing that part. However, given that the ECU was reflashed with an aftermarket tune that already accounts for a larger Intake, I would rule out the CAI being the culprit unless the CEL was reported on day 1 or the CAI developed a leak somewhere (but that shouldn’t throw an IAT CEL). Also, I’m not 100% certain if the Accord Euro overseas has a MAF, but the USDM TSX does not have one. Only has an IAT and MAP sensors on the intake side and an OE IAT is only ~$40 USD online.
Nuthing would touch euro r when modded stick supercharger on u see 320bhp no problem same engine as integra type r old school era honda rule from first civic type r in 2002 with 2.0 type r engine master piece
I have a CL9 and an 8th gen Si. After some time I realized I have much more fun in my Si!! More power and torque is cool, but in these cars I only see the engine as a compliment to the nimble approach honda has made in their design for these cars overall(because the CL7 and 9 are just big, wide and heavy). Every component has something that is geared more towards quickness rather than speed, it adds up and I think it creates that feel you describe.
Yeah so basically here's a quick rundown: Accord Euro = NZ New Accord - 140kW 2.4L engine - available as 5AT or 6MT. Our cars are called the "Accord Euro" because we got the V6 Accord, and the smaller European accord so they needed a way to distinguish them. Accord = JDM import - Has either a 119kW 2.0L or 148kW 2.4L engine (Type S). Just called the Accord because our "Accord V6" was called the Inspire over there. Accord Euro R = JDM import - Uses a 162kW high performance 2.0L engine. Effectively the Accord Type R from the mid 00's
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Great video! Today is the 19th anniversary of the 7th generation Accord. Absolutely love the CL7 Euro R.
Cheers man and who knew!
This is great to find the comparison between the 2 cars. I'm working on a 2.4 Type S CL9, I'm happy I have the hydro power steering & the 2.4 motor over the Euro R's offering.
Yep that's the one man! I agree
Just bought a euroR and waiting for pickup. Been binge watching all your euroR videos and it’s been great to see what I’m in for
Haha nice man you'll love it!
@@KiwiCarLife little bit over two months of ownership impressions.
I’m shocked that a little 2L motor can clock the speedo. As you said, the steering really is numb. I’m not sure if that’s poor alignment or stock suspension but the electronic steering really isn’t it. It’s like I turn hard into a corner but the car wants to do it’s own thing.
Otherwise, it’s a good mix between performance and daily car.
Love your videos bro. Keep up the awesome work
For your cl9 get a set of stock usdm k24a2 06-08 tsx camshafts. Your vtec engagement will be more pronounced and you will gain more power while retaining oem reliability.
That's true, would be a good mod for sure. Spency tho and I'm starting to run out of interest in continuing to pour money into this tbh
@@KiwiCarLife one thing you haven't done though is fitting the rsp intake manifold onto it . You'll see a massive gain on the midrange and your CAI will absolutely sing.
@@waseembux7537 yeah got a skunk2 manifold on the way
I have just bought a November 2008 final edition CL7 Euro R and I love it, there great performance cars, and quicker than you might think, by the way the steering in my car is perfect, there must be something wrong with the car you were testing out , drive safe.
Drive one with hydraulic steering and you'll notice the difference immediately
Nothing wrong with steering feel it’s just quite dis engaging , had a dc2 and that’s the main difference that first jumped out to me
Here’s a good video that shows how to replace the knock sensor. It’s located behind the intake manifold next to the starter. th-cam.com/video/Cr_r0OSEUqg/w-d-xo.html
As for the IAT, maybe try cleaning the sensor first and then pull the battery to see if the CEL reappears. If that doesn’t work, then likely time to replace it.
Oh yep cheers
Yes 👍🏻
I need a bit of clarification
Is the Type S just a 2.4 l accord or is it a separate trim? I live in europe and can't find anything on a type-s model for this generation accord. Basically it looks like we just got an accord with 3 engine options 2.0 petrol, 2.4 petrol, 2.2 turbo diesel.
Also do accords of this generation have electric steering?
It’s a separate trim, Japan only. And nah some have EPS and others HPS. Depends on the market
Hey mate i have a accord euro 2005 5spd semi auto the knock off sensor or air intake temp sensor plug pin cud be loose common dam thing plugs become loose prob from heat so they become issues the 1 that bugged me was rhe car run like shit and no cel showing. howevr i diagnosed the issue as broken coolant temp sensor wire or loose plug again you will know if that happens loss POWER no VteC .. Luckily the Handy onboard plug in DIagnostic scan tool connnected to my phone reading data logs and freeze frames ..invest in 1 super handy for basic cel codes etc. I have never put my car into a workshop ever for any reason all home knowledge ... Car now has 260+ks and does rolling 2step powerskids "') .... it would be awesome if we did a comparison with mine i always watch ur videos then go do some tuning to mine apexi vafc stock ecu ?😁 tons of man hours the power output is unknown as yet however it does not hesistate to climb 200+kph i havent met my match yet . IM in the process to gt it tuned but i have no clue as to where Kflash? some one recommended st hitec but i said no thanks due to past issues.. keep it mate Cars getting qwicker Honda k24cl9r 🤓
Hey man, yeah we figured out my knock sensor has died, I'll just get a new one. IAT's aren't actually causing the engine light but it is throwing a code. And yeah I'd be keen to film a video - modified auto vs modified sedan maybe? Hit me up on insta @kiwicarlife.yt if you're keen
The JDM Euro R K20A has 5-9 ft lbs of torque less than the K24A but has a flatter torque curve if I’m not mistaken, more torque at lower RPM. It also weighs about 130 lbs less and has 20 hp more. The JDM CL7 Euro R is an awesome all rounder and has huge value for money in it.
Prices are jumping up quite quickly for them now as well.
Yeah stock for stock it's no comparison. Euro R makes more power, has shorter gears, and weighs a little less.
I guess what this highlights tho is how much potential the K24 has...
torque in ftlbs XDDDDDDD, weight in lbs, mad asf
Fuck it, I’ve watch this video like 10 Times! I’m Buying a CL7 this year ❤️
Nice man! Good choice
Guau menudos vídeos!!! Me e comprado también un accord cl9 basado en tus vídeos. Ahora a modificar. Por donde empezarías tu ahora ?
Yes
Anyone know where the CL7s duckbill is from?
Not sure sorry I'm sure there's one on aliexpress
Does this ACCORD isn't Euro Sport in Australian market?
Yes
260NM in Your CL9 with this intake? No way ;) Can't be true.
It's an estimate - intakes don't do much anyway
Is it possible/ easy to swap the steering rack and system from you car to the R? Would be perfect then 😍
Possibly could, not much point tho. But yeah hydraulic steering is infinitely better than the eps in the euro r
I just bought a cl7 euro r. Seriously so much fun! I go for casual drives on my lunch break 😆
Yeah mate they're amazing aye
Man, the JR3's on that CL7 look really dope.
Yeah it's pretty tasty
@@KiwiCarLife The knock sensor needs to be replaced. the CU2 one is a good replacement as well.
Would love to see a track battle between the cl1, cl7 and your cl9. That would be epic.
That would be very epic actually... will have to try tee something up
@@KiwiCarLife do it, I recon you would get alot of views. Capturing 3 different popular hondas
@@olihaub yeah for sure man
Really..what's stopping Honda from bringing back atleast an iteration of this euroR..??...i mean toyota did it with the supra....
They should aye
@@KiwiCarLife 100%
I bought a cl7 accord earlier this year with the K24 it had 245ks still went pretty good considering the ks with no issues but sold it, now have a GTI and in heaps of engine n electronic issues honestly miss the Honda reliability.
Yeahhh I guess that's the way it goes with the euros aye
In regards to all the modifications you have done, is it included on your insurance?
Yep
10/10 video again! Line up an Fn2 type R against the CL7 Euro R soon!
Cheers man and yeah if I can find an fn2 I will
Thanks for the comparison video mate. I'm in this exact situation as I'm thinking about importing a CL7R. You mentioned, modified CL9 has better torque, better steering feel (hydraulic) but yet you also mentioned if you can go back 1 year back, you would have bought a CL7R. Could you please explain abit more? Do you know how the steering feel can be improved on a CL7R?
Not really sure how the steering feel can be improved tbh, but yeah it's a case of the CL9 is the better car on paper, but the euro r's engine just has so much zing. It just feels special and unique, whereas the CL9 is just not quite the same. I'm sure with a few mods to increase the redline of the K24 it would be just as good. But there's something to be said for 8600rpm in a family sedan
If you're from new Zealand you cannot import a cl7r because there's no electronic stability control.
You'll be waiting for it to be 20 years old to import and by that stage the government will come up with another rule to make it impossible to do so.
@@KiwiCarLife I drive a automatic CL7 K20a6 8400 rpm limited to 180 KM/H and it bothers me so much. 1st cause I know that the engine can give me more cause i get to 180 on the 3rd gear, and really envy those extra 600rpm on the manual Euro R.
Yet, the seats on on the auto are just better then the recaro.
@@chrlda6857 k20a6 it is cl7, cl7 and cl7R are completely different cars...
What's the rims on the euro r ?
Te37 reps or something, not sure tho
Please consider your International viewers and at least place the horsepower numbers on the screen
Oh yeah sorry I keep forgetting
@@KiwiCarLife Thank You For the concern
We also just got the Type S without the Euro R in SA, That K20 is a gem, but there's no replacement for displacement, the K24 should be a little more reliable
Yeah probably - it's too bad Honda never made a true K24A... Coz they all make more power than the K20 in the long run but you've gotta swap basically every useful K20 bit onto a K24 block to make it work...
@@KiwiCarLife agreed! costly effort though !
That's the trouble aye...
@@KiwiCarLife All the best with your build dude, keep us updated!
Just ordered a knock sensor with wiring kit from speed science. Excellent reviews as in no issues with it, made stronger as well and cheaper than original
Oh yes I'll look into that
EURO S vs EURO R
Yeeez
Today is one year and about 12k
,kilometers with my CL9 i have updates...Springs,shocks,upgrade and brakes and i blast mine rear stop light.I must go on original :D but she is all fine.Yesterday i seat in my Mg Rover 75 2.5 v6 and im impressed how much cars is different type but good.Rover is perfect but i dont want to sell it and i found Accord think little with ...and i have a two large sedans and Golf 4 2.0b 4 motion because we are in gasoline crise Ithink to Honda goes in garage Rover have mot,Honda yesterday is done...I think of Porsche 964 carrera 2 tiptronik(work in progres) most beatifule Porsch mine is late 94 enterior like 993 but i like 964 because "Californication" and later i buy only coupe
Lovely
In terms of sound, you can get the k24 sounding a lot better with the rbc manifold
Yeah I imagine, I've got a skunk2 one on the way
I’m running the rbc, can’t wait for the video!!!
@@gabrielabdelfattah470 100% bro, I’ve got the RBC on my DC5 sounds so much better.
does RBC need porting ?
@@Tantium nah you don’t need it, but it does increase performance
I have a honda accord 2004 model powered by k24a4 engine. What suggestion you can share that i can increase my horsepower or performance by using the same engine ?
Not much bro, the a4 isn't tuneable
Nice vid and comparison. Though I would never drive that speed through the mountains.. damn
Thanks and I think the camera makes it look faster than it really is. Maybe got to 80? I dunno. Driven that road 100's of times
To my understanding CL7 Euro R was 2002-2007 correct? Any differences between the model years? Can't find much online, not even the sales brochures.
2003-2008 yeah. There was a facelift in 2006
@@KiwiCarLife Same styling changes that came with CL9? Hood, grills, and some interior bits?
would u know what holder was bought or how the type r mounted its license plates on the side?
They’re just bolted into the bumper
awsome video mate i can't wait to see what you do next to the accord. keep it up
Cheers man!
Would love to get a euro R but in my country, all euro Rs are selling upwards of 65000usd…. FD2Rs are all at least 75000 usd 😢
Goodness me that's just outrageous
Put a rbc on that k24 50 degree vtc gear and type s oil pump
Yeah that'll make a difference
3:17 the last 400rpm almost have the same sound of gt4rs flat 6 ringing
Yeah man they really go aye
Makes me miss my CL7, they used to be a dime a dozen but not anymore - Great review!
Yeah defo that's the trouble is that they're so expensive now aye - well worth it tho
Same bro I miss mines so much 😪
You could do a red top k20 head on your k24 block you will get the best of to worlds
Nah, better and cheaper to mod the k24 head with cams, 45deg vtc, ported head, fd2r mani and oil pump, you'll get the same results
U should've got a cl7 that has same mods as ur type s and compare them cars that way..
No because the whole point was to compare a type s and a euro r with the same power. To get a type s to the same power it needs mods, the euro r doesn't.
For the knock sensor code you just need to change the sensor
yep
Or it's... knocking/misfiring, and you need to address that.
@@The_Noticer. ya or that
It's not knocking, runs just like it did before, just has the light come on. Maybe a bad ground or bad sensor
Owned the cl9 a few years back, put same new rims on it and a spoiler and the thing looked sick. Plus only issue i had was the battery went out but thats to be wxpected. Pretty reliable.
Yeah they're great
You should put a DC5/EP3R or Euro R Momo wheel in your CL9 if you haven’t already. 👌
Nah I wanna keep cruise control and stereo controls
U gotta put ur car on a dyno to verify the horsepower and torque numbers. I got a stock 6spd manual 04TSX in Canada here. I know you test drove that base CL9 Euro and u thought it was slow as f.....! The TSX has 13more horses and to me its pretty quick. The good thing about the K24 TSX is that it's a great daily driver, very comfortable and u don't have to floor it everytime. Reving up the K20 all the time is tiring.
Yeah I'll get it on the Dyno at some point. Haven't driven a tsx but they seem to be quote different to our euros. Facelift ones with the bigger cam are definitely faster out of the box
By the way, you've done a great job with the mods on the car, looks really cool too. You've pushed the limits responsibly! 5.8secs to 100k is real quick. Turbo or supercharger can be problematic and lots of headaches. I'm a little older now and my mod days are done, but I still enjoy these videos.
@@Al404DVP thanks man! Yeah it's pretty quick aye I've been surprised
Maybe its time for a kpro v4, K20A head, rrc intake, etc on your beautiful CL9 :-)
Sounds expensive!
Engine light means time to Part it out and sell me the gear box 😂
Haha well unfortunately for you I got it fixed. Car will be for sale tho soon so you could always buy the whole car!
You can’t beat a k20a, nothing compares to that sound
It's incredible aye
GO see Ben at Pro Spark in upperhutt, hel sort ya out. Great vid mate
Oh yes cheers for that
hey man, my CL7 bonnet latch is jammed, lever inside car isn’t grabbing and i’m extremely annoyed, reckon you could do a video on it
Uhh could do? Trouble is I'd need a car with a broken latch to show how to fix it... which I do not have...
You need to adjust the bolt inside the actual bonnet.
That euro R aint stock
Its been lowered
Yeah but the engine is basically stock
Great 👍🏻 video. Thank you 👏🏻
All good!
Put the eml codes you have here please so we can help .
Don't have a scanner but I'll take it into work at some point and get it scanned. Part of the issue is that they come and go. It's not on all the time. Usually comes on after a pull when the engine has warmed up, but is never on when it's cold.
A knock sensor is a $4 part and a 5 minute job. One plug and one bolt.
Sweet as
Yea that 4th gear race showed the difference. The earlier race, the cl7 would pull in 2nd gear but going into 3rd the k24 just sent it. I thought so too. Why would the k20 pull like that with the same gears? Interesting to see. Definitely want a euro r in the future when it's 2031.
In 2nd maybe he just got on the throttle slightly earlier... I dunno tbh
what road is that that you are testing the handling on
Paekakariki hill road
This chad always has the best videos!
Thanks man appreciate it
What has your fuel consumption (and the CL7R if known) been like please?
I average about 9l/100km. I'd expect the cl7 to be similar
I get 7.6 /100 on my euro r cl7
Wtf. "Euro S" ..lol
@@mozeusmeister5758 that’s the name of the model
@@KiwiCarLife TYPE S / euro R
@@mozeusmeister5758 not in our market! Euro S is K24 with sports package, Euro R is K20A
What splitter is on the euro r , love the look of it
Generic eBay one
Is the 165kw measurement accurate did you dyno it? ATW?
Nah 165kW crank and that's an estimate based on what other people have gained from the various mods I've done on dynos
@@KiwiCarLife I see I believe the block is capable of 220ish NA with boltons at the hub (not as accurate as wheels but more so than crank) this was on an 05 auto.
What if we do modification to euro r will that be able to beat a modified cl9 type s
Yeah probably
Could you do the comparison between the Euro R and BMW 325i?
th-cam.com/video/wHi4rnpqtEQ/w-d-xo.html
E46 330i is better to use then
325i is to slow
@@hondamanvtec2894 yes agreed
*Bro, if you’re going to stay N/A invest in a RRC manifold and a J35 throttle body. It will make the K24 very responsive💯*
Yeah got a skunk2 manifold on the way
@@lexman8678 your humble opinion is respected but not understood. I think you miss that there is more to a car than just speed and power. A crown athlete is an absolute boat, and it's auto so you don't get the driving enjoyment side of things.
Obviously we're all different and clearly your driving enjoyment comes from beating cars in rolling races, which I can agree is fun, but I get my enjoyment from driving a well built, well set up chassis with a high revving 4 banger and great steering with a manual gearbox. Each to their own.
Great video! What wheels are on the Euro R? TE37s?
Some sort of replica designed to look like them yeah
Nice review mate. Love the Euro R. I am struggling between mps3 gen 2 and Euro R, not sure which one to buy. Which one would you reckon? I owned Euro R before and still in love with it. I still like to try something new.
Euro r will always be more special, but mps has more overhead. If u wanna keep stock I'd say euro r, if you wanna modify, go mps
I would go with a dc2r jdm spec let me tell ya it’s night and day compared to accord
@@bigguwapbrixks187 driven one, and yeah the accord is way better
K20 head on K24 bottom? Best of both worlds
Yeah defo
where does one just get a k20 head though ?
@@Tantium NZ context will be a little different. Probably just need good timing and pinch one off a wrecked Integra or Euro R?
Awesome Comparison vid mate. Looking forward to the next one. Thumbs up.
Cheers man
Еврор лучше тем что он сделан для драйва,там на стенках цилиндров спецпокрытие,а на к24нет ,так что еврор будет ездить и ездить перенося большие нагрузки в отличие от к24
Я не понимаю, о чем вы. K24 имеет гораздо больший крутящий момент и лучше переносит более тяжелые нагрузки. Да, Euro R веселее, но K24 объективно лучше, если вы его измените.
Спецпокрытие!!!тем и лучше, новые топоры к20,и не нужно выеживатся что вы не понимаете о чём я,досвидания
досвидания
what kind of mags does the euro r have?
Can't remember sorry - some like TE37 reps or something
@@KiwiCarLife sweet shots brotha
What are the P codes
I thought my friend sent me a screenshot when he scanned it at the track day but he didn't - will have to get it rescanned when I get a chance
Gotta love vtec bro
Oh yeah man
Great video dude! May I ask about the rim specs of both cars?
Both 18's but he's got +35 offset and wider rims, mine are +48 and only 7.5" wide
@@KiwiCarLife how much wider? Thank you in advance! Both cars are sick!
@@MrNiGhtBlAd3 I don't know the exact specs but I'd say 8.5 wide
@@MrNiGhtBlAd3 18x9 +32
awesome video
Thanks!
should i get a 03 euro r cl7 in 2022?
Yes you should
isnt the year kind of old compared to the 05+ or that doesn’t matter too much?
@@Tris268 they're all basically the same 03-08
Euro r for the win all day
Fair enough
Sorry mate I just feel like a racing driver behind the wheel. I didn't get same adrenaline in my type s. Also, In the carribean we mount the k24 bottom end to the k20a top which provides additional torque while maintaining the k20a redline ( Frankenstein k series 😀)
Would love to see a diesel accord vs a petrol accord
Yeah my mate has bought one, he's just waiting to pick it up then I'll film a vid
@@KiwiCarLife is the video ready??
Yep!
th-cam.com/video/lcw5zRdC_fE/w-d-xo.html
Just sold my euro r :(
Sad times... on to bigger and better things no doubt!
What you getting next?
great video keep them up!
Cheers!
Could be a good time for a Dyno tune... Get that k24 dialled in.
Dyno tune in his Accord is going to require an ECU from an 07-08 model year + the CAN adapter. It’s quite expensive to go down that route unfortunately, but would be great content for the channel.
Not necessarily, the stock ECU is still tuneable, that's how people are able to do reflashes on it. I'll be getting it on a dyno at some point but I'd have to go to Auckland to do it so not till covid blows over
@@KiwiCarLife hit me up when you are up here. I have a fd2r that you can review👍
@@kos5120 Could be keen - wanna hit me up on insta so I can contact you when I'm up there? @kiwicarlife.yt
@@KiwiCarLife for the USDM TSX, the 04-06 ECUs can only be reflashed as it’s not supported by Hondata Flashpro and Ktuner. The 07-08 ECU is different and can be used to load custom tunes. Not sure if the ECUs in your region were set up any differently than the US market.
I think the wheel and tyre size on the Euro R are having a negative effect on steering feel....same problem with my Euro R so went back to stock wheels
Yeah must be aye - I don't remember the stock one having steering as bad as this
@@KiwiCarLife the fitment looks really good on the euro r, I assume to get that fitment the wheel setup is staggered and the tyres are wider on the rear compared to the front causing understeer
@@ethanmounter1940 possibly? I didn't look too closely but I have a feeling its 225/40R18 all round
As for the intake temp and knock, did you re-tune the engine after you had the cold-air intake installed? It could be having trouble with the added flow. As these engines measure the amount of air by intake temp (density) and flow (MAF). Your modification, compared to stock, has a lower temperature and less flow. So it misreads the amount of air going into it. The intake temperature could be one way it would indicate this error, since it doesn't expect the ducting to have changed and it could think the flow is within spec.
You can start by reading out the Live data if it's misfiring, or excessively trimming fuel (Long Term/Short Term fuel trims).
That's true actually... didn't think of that. Will see if a retune fixes it
@@KiwiCarLife By less flow I mean, the diameter could be higher, and then the air speed is slower. The ECU based on MAF+ITT would think less air is entering, because it's calculating for a different diameter tube and inject the wrong amount of fuel (in this case, too much). It will then maybe spit out this code, i dont know what the scenario for the fault code is, i'd have to look. Usually though, any engine modification you do, requires a retune by a specialist, to remap it for this new intake/exhaust geometry. We are not in the carb days anymore, sadly :)
The SergeBo tune you have was developed to account for a CAI so a retune wouldn’t fix the IAT sensor issue. I would recommend cleaning the IAT or replacing that sensor altogether.
@@vando1267 replacing a sensor based on absolutely no live data analysis is what parts cannon mechanics do. Besides, these days the IAT is combined with the MAF, which is very expensive on a Honda. You verify it with WOT engine efficiency, or idle gr./sec usage if it's out of spec before you start throwing parts at it....
And not every CAI is the same, any change in diameter throws the ECU off.
@@The_Noticer. Good point. It would be wise to hook up a scan tool to confirm if the IAT temperature readings are off before replacing that part. However, given that the ECU was reflashed with an aftermarket tune that already accounts for a larger Intake, I would rule out the CAI being the culprit unless the CEL was reported on day 1 or the CAI developed a leak somewhere (but that shouldn’t throw an IAT CEL). Also, I’m not 100% certain if the Accord Euro overseas has a MAF, but the USDM TSX does not have one. Only has an IAT and MAP sensors on the intake side and an OE IAT is only ~$40 USD online.
🔥🔥🔥
🔥🔥🔥
Not really a fair comparison, find a euro r with headers etc and see what it’s like then
What do you mean? The whole point was that it was stock vs modified because from factory the euro s is way slower
@@KiwiCarLife I realise that, would you do a comparison against a modified euro r?
@@glencrean4568 yeah probably if I could find someone with one
Nuthing would touch euro r when modded stick supercharger on u see 320bhp no problem same engine as integra type r old school era honda rule from first civic type r in 2002 with 2.0 type r engine master piece
@@tomwall7966 Yes, but do identical mods to the k24 and it'll rape the euro r. No replacement for displacement
I have a CL9 and an 8th gen Si. After some time I realized I have much more fun in my Si!! More power and torque is cool, but in these cars I only see the engine as a compliment to the nimble approach honda has made in their design for these cars overall(because the CL7 and 9 are just big, wide and heavy). Every component has something that is geared more towards quickness rather than speed, it adds up and I think it creates that feel you describe.
Yeah definitly
check engine
checked✔
HAHAH it's definitely still there!
Hey i’m a bit new to the whole “car world” but some accords i’ve ran into don’t have the euro, euro r and type s badge, so are they just an accord ?
Yeah so basically here's a quick rundown:
Accord Euro = NZ New Accord - 140kW 2.4L engine - available as 5AT or 6MT. Our cars are called the "Accord Euro" because we got the V6 Accord, and the smaller European accord so they needed a way to distinguish them.
Accord = JDM import - Has either a 119kW 2.0L or 148kW 2.4L engine (Type S). Just called the Accord because our "Accord V6" was called the Inspire over there.
Accord Euro R = JDM import - Uses a 162kW high performance 2.0L engine. Effectively the Accord Type R from the mid 00's