This is one of the best videos I have seen on any automotive maintenance or repair, and I've seen a lot of 'em. I have a 1963 544 that I am trying to do this exact thing to. Thank you for being thorough, I can't tell you how helpful this video is.
Dylan, Excellent video and nicely done. One comment. You may want to mention that when synchronizing the carburetors to get the same flow through each one, you should ensure the throttle shafts are not connected together. The throttle shafts should operate independently for this adjustment and then get locked to each other again when competed.....Tony
I’ve watched lots of videos on tuning and balancing SU carbs. This is the best by far. Really easy to understand and also being told WHY something happens when you turn a screw or something. Well done!!❤😊
Excellent video. The best ever on these simple but tricky little English (backwards-Whitworth- carbon-clutch-bearing-lever-shocks) carbs. You can probably tell I'm not a big fan of the way the Brits made their cars, but your video is a 10.
Worldwide auto parts of Madison rebuilds the Armstrong lever shock that seals the oil inside so you never have to add oil ,on TH-cam I think that TH-cam is titled Armstrong lever shocks guys working on a green MG and it's got a good explanation I ordered some from my car and they helped a lot As my car was bouncing around as I went over man hole covers
Thanks so much for the video. I am considering switching from a zenith stromberg 150 carb to twin SU H4s. Your video was very help. Are you a Professor? If you are not, you should be. You were clear, easy to understand, logical, and explained everything completely. I have watched many TH-cam instructional videos and your video is clearly one of the best. Before I watched your video, I knew nothing about SU carbs. Now that I watched your video, I feel confident that I could tune them. You helped make my decision easier. I appreciate your time and effort!
I have a 59 TR3, I've had to fight it EVERY time I wanted to drive it, probably used 8 or 9 cans of ether to get it running, over the last 10 years. Today I followed your instructions and it started right up, ran strong, - one happy car.
Did they still make those in 59? I had two in 67-68 Don't know what year they were made, but my brother had a newer TR4. Wow i never thought that he would actually purchase a functioning car.
nice yes that carb cleaner makes a difference bout every 6 months i do that and now my 68 1800s is not performing like it should. the peddle goes 90% to the floor before carbs activate. i notice the linkage is loose a little and its really taking a long time to get up to speed. I have to have the accelerator pressed to the floor, which is only around 60. all cylinders at 124-125 psi. my linkage seems off. any thoughts?
Hey Dylan, I know we've talked a little on the Volvo Amazon group on FB, but I just wanted to say thanks a lot for posting this video. I was a bit scared of tinkering with carbs as I had never done such a thing before but you explained things quite clearly and it was really easy for a novice like me to get my engine ticking over nicely. Thanks a lot man!
Great Video. I've been playing with these on my Z's for the last 30 years. The screw in piston damper used in the Hitachi SU clones have two grooves cut in the shaft just above the brass piston. The grooves are low and high marks for the damper oil and can be used just like a dipstick to get the oil level correct. If you have too much oil, you can wipe off the damper and re-insert it a couple of times to get the oil level correct. I haven't looked at a European SU's to verify that the same grooves are there.
Dylan, good video but maybe I can set straight a couple of myths. Firstly, the pistons are not damped to prevent "flutter." They don't flutter. Check out a slide type carb on an old BMW or Italian bike. No oil and damper, and no flutter. Secondly, do not run ATF or anything but 20W fork or SAE 20W-50 oil. That oil and damper tamps down the piston upon acceleration and enrichens the mixture. Put in lighter oil and you're running lean on acceleration. Please keep up the great work.
I used 2 things to balance my duel carbs. First a vacuum meter to ballpark things and then a rubber tube to listen to the hiss to fine tune. To test your mixture setting drive 55-60 for a flat mile, kill the engine, pull a plug and see that it's light tan. Where did I learn this? Gene Berg
DYLAN MY FIRST CAR WAS A 60 544 NOW I HAVE A 68 122 WAGON GUESS I GOT THE BUG FROM MY FATHER WEVE HAD AT LEAST 15 - 20 122S AND 544S I HAVE A SHOP FULL OF VOLVO PARTS LOVE THE IPD SHIRT THE WAGON HAS A WEBER PROGRESSIVE ON IT NOW BUT I CLEANED A SET OF STROMBERGS UP AND INTEND TO MOUNT THEM REALLLY SOON REALLY ENJOYED VIDEO THANKS LEARNED A FEW THINGS I DIDNT KNOW
ATF is too thin for the dashpot oil. It will rev quicker in neutral but in gear under load it will cause a leaner mixture right when you want it richer for more power. Using it will lean the intended mixture during acceleration under load because it will reduce the lag time of the piston rising. The piston will then rise faster which will reduce the amount of vacuum acting on drawing the fuel up the jet. I'm not recommending SU's oil, but I'd suggest using something with the same viscosity. Leanness under acceleration load is usually not a wise practice for engine longevity, let alone best acceleration.
Hey thanks for the great videos, also wanted to note, I used the procedure on an '57 mga (for people searching for mg), so this technique works for basically any SU carburetor equipped car. same goes for the valve adjustment video, thx again
Hi Dylan, Nice video!! One question here. When you were synchronizing the carbs so the air through each carb would be the same, I didn't note that you disconnected the carburetors from each other. What I mean is, why didn't you have to loosen the connecting clamp that ties the two throttle shafts together? On my car, they mention loosening that clamp that holds the shafts tied together and then make the synchronization adjustment. After your all synchronized, you tighten up the shaft clamps again. Does this make sense?
I totally agree! You must disconnect the carbs throttle connection from each other before balancing the air flow into each carb. This was not shown in you video, but I am sure that you did this. I have been balancing SU carbs for over 50 years and this must be done.
Dylan, thanks for a super video. This really helped in removing the mystery out of cleaning and adjusting carbs! Fantastic Job! Please upload more videos. Cheers!
Thanks Dylan.. nice video but big question.. should i first disconnect the linkage between the two carbs on my TR3 before i adjust the idle screw? (also pls wear gloves for your safety).
veeg good video I bought an Suzuki SJ413 today with a horrendous flat spot and was absolutely stumped on how to adjust it. I can't wait to crack on with the adjustments tommorow after watching this thanks for such a good video!! If you have any more good tips on how to set the idle on a single carbed vehicle please share!!!
Great video, well done. If you think working on 2 SUs is fun, just think what you can do with 3 HD8s SUs like I have on my XKE. Thanks for the tips & suggestions. I run 20wt engine oil in my carbs.
Thanks for the video it was really helpful, my bowls were full of gunk and lines were clogged. Gave them a real good cleaning, After I installed them back on the car was idling extremely high as if someone were stepping on the gas. and when I would push on gas pedal it was kind of sputter. I noticed some smoking from the exhaust manifold. Any idea why it would be idling that high?
I have 64 Daimler 250 V8. I stripped carbs, cleaned and 're-built' (a.k.a put them back to gether!). I have done no tuning and will have a go now based on this vid. However, one question - what are 'flats' when you say loosen off '12 flats'? Thanks a mil
Thanks for the tips, i live in Brazil and here we had in the 70' the Dodge Polara and it uses a SU carb, i will buy one, now i will know how to adjust the carburator thanks
i use one of those magnetic dishes to keep the parts in it holds those tiny screwws in perfect even if you happen to knock it of the fender as for filling the accelleration bit with the oil , there these oilcans pump thingies used to oil steamengines and other mecanical stuff , they pump luttle squirts and the perfect for filling these up
Absolutely not unless you are going to port the head, raise the compression , change the cam to a 260/270. Even then, the engine was designed for SU carbs and the SU carbs were designed for that engine. You may want to change the needles.. Contact Moss Motors for suggestions. And has been mentioned, carbs are the last thing you want to address after, points, plugs, condensor, rotors, plug wires, caps, adjusting the valves, setting the timing. SU carbs are trouble free, easy to adjust, need little maintenance.. unlike Webbers. Expensive and unnecessary. And then join MGEXP discussion group.. As a former BMC (factory authorized Rolls, Bentley, Jag, Aston Martin, Austin, MG, Morris, Lotus etc dealership ) mechanic in the 60s and 70s..., and prior workd for SCANDIA Motors in Seaside Calif , the official Volvo SAAB dealership. the biggest problem with SU carbs are the geniuses who think they need adjusting and they are the chosen ones to do so, especially independent garages and your best buddy who used to own an MG. Also do a youtube search for University Motors LTD , all about MG cars and SU carbs.
It sounds a little slappy on the valves. I used 5 weight oil in my carbs. Valves were 25 thousands cold- 26 hot. Idle @700. These engines always use solid lifters and were a bit noisy. Good video
Hey Dylan, great video. My carbs running very rich, before I can tune, as per your video, my chokes appear both to be stuck. I see the linage, cables, etc. but, looking for advice to free them up. Any advice would be great.
A great video! One question: At 20:45 I thought you could only do that (syncro both carbs with te speedscrews ) with the clamping bolds, on the shaft that connects both butterflies, LOOSE! Yours are still connected..you pull the central lever up and BOTH carbs react; can’t syncro like that??? Or am I missing something??? Ok, idle is set, then, right. But when you add gass, then they are NOT syncronised.
I don't really see a need to disconnect anything when adjusting the idle unless things are way out of wack. I'd rather make adjustments while everything is hooked up; what you change on one carb will impact on the other after all. As long as both butterflies open at the same time, it won't matter.
Great video, i have been terrified of messing with the twin SU's on my rover V8. Im now confident that i can at least take them apart and clean them to see if that helps performance. I have a sticking float on one of them and it over flows could you perhaps do a video of to fix that? Many Thanks
Historically after letting car sit way too long, 10yrs plus, we got it running again, and painted up, the carb would start running rough(rich) and I would lean it via the nut underneath the card. main complaint now is it idles real high(tach doesn't wk, not sure if that caused by using pertronix ignition but seems like I had tach after putting in petronix) and 2nd complaint, the car won't to diesal or keep running sometimes when I turn it off. Time to no doubt to follow your intructions or at least tighten adjusting nuts a bit. I rebuilt carbs b4 it sat so long, that another option
Dylan, Great video maybe you could help me. For some reason my car conked out the other day and now it won't start and I suspect it's fuel ( su carbs) related. I have fuel in the float chambers but not sure if I am getting any in the carb itself, with the air filter removed should I be able to see petrol mist when trying to start? Any help would be good
Fantastic video! Going to be working on this as soon as I get new dashpot springs. I have these on a 1967 Rolls Royce. There is no easy way to get at the intake of the carburetor without removing the whole intake and choke. Is there another way you'd recommend setting fuel air mix? My black exhaust tells me I need to work on it a touch. Thanks!
I have a 1971 Datsun 240Z and I am working on the SU carbs. I use to have this down pat, but it's been w while, and the car has sat for some time now. I have taken them completely apart, and cleaned every thing, but I am having a few issues. 1. For some reason both chocks work ok when out, but sticking when installed.2. The jet in the rear sticks a bit when all most closed, 3. For some reason the carbs are being difficult to ballance, what do you suggest as a Base Line Setting for the Throttle Adjusting screws? If you balance the carbs with the Throttle adj. screws, what is the Balance screw for?
Hello! Sounds to me like your jets aren't centered. There is a special tool that can do this, but there are other ways to get around not having the tool. There is probably some crud / rust / dirt inside of the Jet that is not allowing them to move freely, or a spring that is no longer holding tension. As far as the base setting, use your best judgement. If the idle bounces around or changes for seemingly no reason, you might have throttle shafts that are worn out. Spray around the intake and base of the carbs with water and see if it impacts the idle. If it does, you've got an air leak somewhere.
Hi, Dylan I have an MGB1975 with twin SU HIF carbs and I cant seem to adjust it out of lean. When I lift the piston the revs drop no matter how the mixture is adjusted. Any help would be appreciated. Phil (Ireland)
Check for vacuum leaks on the manifold and any piping running to things like brake boosters, stuffed vac advance etc. You also need to make sure everything else is spot on with ignition (points, dizzy cap, rotor button, condenser, plugs and leads), timing (Including checking the vac advance and mechanical advance), tappet clearances, compression etc before you go near the carbs. They are the last thing to look at in a tune up, but often missed. Good luck. 👍
I am sure that you have a vacuum leak. When there is a air leak in the intake manifold, you can never set up your carbs. One way to find the leak is to spray carb cleaner onto different locations on the intake manifold and river piping. Another way is to use an unlit blow torch and aim the nozzles at different locations including all the rubber pipes. When the engine speeds up while gassing a location, that is where the vacuum leak is located!
I have a 1960 tr3a with suh6 carbs. I liked this video very much. Looking for the tool you used to adjust the air flow. can't find one anywhere. do you have any suggestions?
Hello i have a question i have motorcycle with hif38 carb on custom manifold. Mine question is about the vacuum advance port should i block it or keep it unblocked? there is nowhere for it to connect and it vacuums to air.
Thank you so much lol. No one will work on my SU’s so now I feel a lot better about tackling them myself. How do I know if I need a full rebuild, or just a clean and adjustment ?
Hi Dylan, i have a reliant robin trike and i have turned up the mixture adjustment as far as it will go on my su carb but its still running rich. Pls advise
I'm an old school SU mechanic from back in the day, there are lots of variables with SU's like float levels, needle position in the piston, needles not bent, jet centers, piston stops, sloppy linkages.....bla bla bla but your piston springs are missing!
Very clear instructions. Perfect video editing. I have a volvo 122 with the same carbs. My wife was following me and she said that the car smelled a lot of exhaust. Do you think the car is running rich or to lean?
+mportklr It's probably running too rich, but no matter what you do, the car will always smell of exhaust for anyone behind you. It's certainly not a modern car in that respect!
Great video looks easy too! What would cause my idle to rise after car has been run for awhile? Typically it will idle at 1200 rpm when it first starts up then, after the car has been driven it will rise up to 2000rpm which is too fast. What causes this rise in rpm and what do you think is the cause? Thanks!
This is one of the best videos I have seen on any automotive maintenance or repair, and I've seen a lot of 'em. I have a 1963 544 that I am trying to do this exact thing to. Thank you for being thorough, I can't tell you how helpful this video is.
Dylan, Excellent video and nicely done. One comment. You may want to mention that when synchronizing the carburetors to get the same flow through each one, you should ensure the throttle shafts are not connected together. The throttle shafts should operate independently for this adjustment and then get locked to each other again when competed.....Tony
I’ve watched lots of videos on tuning and balancing SU carbs. This is the best by far. Really easy to understand and also being told WHY something happens when you turn a screw or something. Well done!!❤😊
One of the best tutorials I've seen so far 🎉
So many videos so much confusion , well until I got here . Thanks so much for taking the time to do this , it's much appreciated.
Excellent video. The best ever on these simple but tricky little English (backwards-Whitworth- carbon-clutch-bearing-lever-shocks) carbs. You can probably tell I'm not a big fan of the way the Brits made their cars, but your video is a 10.
Worldwide auto parts of Madison rebuilds the Armstrong lever shock that seals the oil inside so you never have to add oil ,on TH-cam I think that TH-cam is titled Armstrong lever shocks guys working on a green MG and it's got a good explanation I ordered some from my car and they helped a lot As my car was bouncing around as I went over man hole covers
Thank you for posting this video. I have been tinkering with my SU's for a little while and this really helped me better understand how they work.
Thank you so much for this video. I found it extremely helpful and my 544 is running better than ever!
Thanks so much for the video. I am considering switching from a zenith stromberg 150 carb to twin SU H4s. Your video was very help. Are you a Professor? If you are not, you should be. You were clear, easy to understand, logical, and explained everything completely. I have watched many TH-cam instructional videos and your video is clearly one of the best. Before I watched your video, I knew nothing about SU carbs. Now that I watched your video, I feel confident that I could tune them. You helped make my decision easier. I appreciate your time and effort!
Thank you Dylan , we need guys like you , outstanding tuition and not bullshit. Straight to the point.thank you again
I have a 59 TR3, I've had to fight it EVERY time I wanted to drive it, probably used 8 or 9 cans of ether to get it running, over the last 10 years. Today I followed your instructions and it started right up, ran strong, - one happy car.
Christopher28fair Awesome! So glad to hear your car is running well!
Did they still make those in 59? I had two in 67-68 Don't know what year they were made, but my brother had a newer TR4. Wow i never thought that he would actually purchase a functioning car.
Hey Dylan! You and I are neighbors :D Just watched this and you pretty much demystified SU carb adjustments. Thank you much!
nice yes that carb cleaner makes a difference bout every 6 months i do that and now my 68 1800s is not performing like it should. the peddle goes 90% to the floor before carbs activate. i notice the linkage is loose a little and its really taking a long time to get up to speed. I have to have the accelerator pressed to the floor, which is only around 60. all cylinders at 124-125 psi. my linkage seems off. any thoughts?
Hey Dylan, I know we've talked a little on the Volvo Amazon group on FB, but I just wanted to say thanks a lot for posting this video. I was a bit scared of tinkering with carbs as I had never done such a thing before but you explained things quite clearly and it was really easy for a novice like me to get my engine ticking over nicely. Thanks a lot man!
Turtle Garage and
Great Video. I've been playing with these on my Z's for the last 30 years. The screw in piston damper used in the Hitachi SU clones have two grooves cut in the shaft just above the brass piston. The grooves are low and high marks for the damper oil and can be used just like a dipstick to get the oil level correct. If you have too much oil, you can wipe off the damper and re-insert it a couple of times to get the oil level correct.
I haven't looked at a European SU's to verify that the same grooves are there.
I love you man, i am restoring a datsun 260z and you help me a lot with this video. the carbs were running very rich. thanks a lot!
Dylan, good video but maybe I can set straight a couple of myths. Firstly, the pistons are not damped to prevent "flutter." They don't flutter. Check out a slide type carb on an old BMW or Italian bike. No oil and damper, and no flutter. Secondly, do not run ATF or anything but 20W fork or SAE 20W-50 oil. That oil and damper tamps down the piston upon acceleration and enrichens the mixture. Put in lighter oil and you're running lean on acceleration. Please keep up the great work.
I've run Mystery Oil in my z's for years, never had a problem.
all I have to say is thank you! I just purchased a 260z and needed this info as this is my first carb'd car.
+Rick S yup its my first carb'd car, it's not my fault I was born into a later generation.
+Rick S but I must say there are a lot less wires to worry about
Awesome video! As a new owner of an MG Midget, this video will help as I thinker my through the needed adjustments. Thanks!!
Excellent video. I have SUs on a 62 TR3B that need this treatment. Very informative. Thanks, Man!
This was a very useful video to translate all the reference material (in writing/books) to how to actually accomplish the adjustments. THANKS !!!
Brilliant sir, this is perfectly straightforward regular guy talk.
Thank you for posting this Dylan. Big help to a new TR6 owner!
Great video. I'm new to su carbs and I'm about to reassemble mine for a '61 triumph tr3. These tips will help tremendously
I used 2 things to balance my duel carbs. First a vacuum meter to ballpark things and then a rubber tube to listen to the hiss to fine tune. To test your mixture setting drive 55-60 for a flat mile, kill the engine, pull a plug and see that it's light tan. Where did I learn this? Gene Berg
Did this tonight - REALLY appreciate your work!!!!
Super useful tutorial, Dylan!
I had no idea so much power was hiding in the L24 of my 240z, all thanks to your video!
Thanks!
Todd Martin Glad my video could help you with your Datsun. In addition to my old Volvos, I have an old Datsun 720. If only it had SUs!
Great video. Very informative. I feel comfortable tackling my SU carbs now!
Great video with a super clear and helpful explanation of the cleaning and tuning process. Now I'm excited to try this on my MG!
Working on a TR6 fitted with SUs tomorrow and really looking forward to it now. Great vid man.
DYLAN MY FIRST CAR WAS A 60 544 NOW I HAVE A 68 122 WAGON GUESS I GOT THE BUG FROM MY FATHER WEVE HAD AT LEAST 15 - 20 122S AND 544S I HAVE A SHOP FULL OF VOLVO PARTS LOVE THE IPD SHIRT THE WAGON HAS A WEBER PROGRESSIVE ON IT NOW BUT I CLEANED A SET OF STROMBERGS UP AND INTEND TO MOUNT THEM REALLLY SOON REALLY ENJOYED VIDEO THANKS LEARNED A FEW THINGS I DIDNT KNOW
Great step by step instructions with examples. Thanks for making the video.
Thank you Dylan!!!
My spitfire loves you !!!
Greeting from austria (Europe)
ATF is too thin for the dashpot oil. It will rev quicker in neutral but in gear under load it will cause a leaner mixture right when you want it richer for more power. Using it will lean the intended mixture during acceleration under load because it will reduce the lag time of the piston rising. The piston will then rise faster which will reduce the amount of vacuum acting on drawing the fuel up the jet. I'm not recommending SU's oil, but I'd suggest using something with the same viscosity. Leanness under acceleration load is usually not a wise practice for engine longevity, let alone best acceleration.
Excellent video and great presentation. Love the tips too.
Keep making more videos. All the best 😀
Awesome helpful video, thanks man! so much better than reading through the manual getting nowhere.
Twin SU's demystified - can it be possible? Excellent video - no BS - just sound tips.
Still referring back to this vid 2 years on. My mates think I'm an SU wizard. Done quite a few of theirs. Cheers Dylan.
I love this video, you are an excellent teacher! I have a 1971 MG Midget SU carbs......thanks, Gary
Just one addition here. Instead of ATF, you should use S.A.E. 20 oil for piston damping. Manufacturer says so.
GREAT video!!! Thanks for taking the time and effort to explain so clearly. Can't wait to try it with my '66 Spitfire!
Hey thanks for the great videos, also wanted to note, I used the procedure on an '57 mga (for people searching for mg), so this technique works for basically any SU carburetor equipped car. same goes for the valve adjustment video, thx again
Hi Dylan, Nice video!! One question here. When you were synchronizing the carbs so the air through each carb would be the same, I didn't note that you disconnected the carburetors from each other. What I mean is, why didn't you have to loosen the connecting clamp that ties the two throttle shafts together? On my car, they mention loosening that clamp that holds the shafts tied together and then make the synchronization adjustment. After your all synchronized, you tighten up the shaft clamps again. Does this make sense?
I totally agree! You must disconnect the carbs throttle connection from each other before balancing the air flow into each carb. This was not shown in you video, but I am sure that you did this. I have been balancing SU carbs for over 50 years and this must be done.
I brought back to life my Datsun. Thank you!
Good video I have a 1980 mgb le with su carbs can’t wait to tune them.
Best video for setting up the SU's. Thank you and hello from Germany :)
Dylan, thanks for a super video. This really helped in removing the mystery out of cleaning and adjusting carbs! Fantastic Job! Please upload more videos. Cheers!
Great Video and very informative I'm new to SU carbs and my 71 240z is going to be happy that I know how to tune it. Thanks for the Vid
Thanks Dylan.. nice video but big question.. should i first disconnect the linkage between the two carbs on my TR3 before i adjust the idle screw? (also pls wear gloves for your safety).
Thanks for this. Followed this tutorial to the letter, having just fitted a reconditioned HS4 on my Austin. Worked a treat! :)
Thank you for this excellent video. Just the one I need to tune my SU's!
Dylan, a really useful and informative post. Many thanks. More videos please!!!
Very clear demonstration all the way through! Thanks!
Excellent video. I just bought a 1964 544 and was worried about setting the carbs. Thanks
Replacing the single ZS on my Spitfire with dual HS4s. Very helpful video, thank you.
Excellent video... thanks for taking the time to do this. Very informative.
Great video, many thanks. SUs explained in a practical and easy to understand way :-)
Like it , so next step for me as a Swede in Portugal is to tune in my Carburetors on my P1800 ! But.. it the feathers important so i need to change ?
veeg good video I bought an Suzuki SJ413 today with a horrendous flat spot and was absolutely stumped on how to adjust it. I can't wait to crack on with the adjustments tommorow after watching this thanks for such a good video!! If you have any more good tips on how to set the idle on a single carbed vehicle please share!!!
th-cam.com/video/Y9t8XhFlKbk/w-d-xo.html Maybe invest in this 'Old School' Tool
Great video, well done. If you think working on 2 SUs is fun, just think what you can do with 3 HD8s SUs like I have on my XKE. Thanks for the tips & suggestions. I run 20wt engine oil in my carbs.
Thanks for the video, have always had some else do my carbs, but no more.
Will use all your tips and tricks on a TR7! Thanks!
Thanks for the video it was really helpful, my bowls were full of gunk and lines were clogged. Gave them a real good cleaning, After I installed them back on the car was idling extremely high as if someone were stepping on the gas. and when I would push on gas pedal it was kind of sputter. I noticed some smoking from the exhaust manifold. Any idea why it would be idling that high?
I have 64 Daimler 250 V8. I stripped carbs, cleaned and 're-built' (a.k.a put them back to gether!). I have done no tuning and will have a go now based on this vid. However, one question - what are 'flats' when you say loosen off '12 flats'? Thanks a mil
Really interesseting to view your videos. My P1800S is going to love this treatment :)
Thanks for the tips, i live in Brazil and here we had in the 70' the Dodge Polara and it uses a SU carb, i will buy one, now i will know how to adjust the carburator thanks
i use one of those magnetic dishes to keep the parts in it holds those tiny screwws in perfect even if you happen to knock it of the fender
as for filling the accelleration bit with the oil , there these oilcans pump thingies used to oil steamengines and other mecanical stuff , they pump luttle squirts and the perfect for filling these up
Would you recommend replacing fuel carbs with webber downdraft? For 74 1/2 mgb.
Absolutely not unless you are going to port the head, raise the compression , change the cam to a 260/270. Even then, the engine was designed for SU carbs and the SU carbs were designed for that engine.
You may want to change the needles.. Contact Moss Motors for suggestions.
And has been mentioned, carbs are the last thing you want to address after, points, plugs, condensor, rotors, plug wires, caps, adjusting the valves, setting the timing.
SU carbs are trouble free, easy to adjust, need little maintenance.. unlike Webbers. Expensive and unnecessary.
And then join MGEXP discussion group..
As a former BMC (factory authorized Rolls, Bentley, Jag, Aston Martin, Austin, MG, Morris, Lotus etc dealership ) mechanic in the 60s and 70s..., and prior workd for SCANDIA Motors in Seaside Calif , the official Volvo SAAB dealership. the biggest problem with SU carbs are the geniuses who think they need adjusting and they are the chosen ones to do so, especially independent garages and your best buddy who used to own an MG.
Also do a youtube search for University Motors LTD , all about MG cars and SU carbs.
Great video. Followed these steps for my hs2 carb. Sweet as a nut now.
Thank you.
Great video simple explanation, thanks for helping us out.
Dylan .. good video . No nonsens ✌️Greetings from a Volvo amazon & PV ovener in Sweden . 🇸🇪
Thanks for the great video. I'm ready to tackle my 1800S now...
It sounds a little slappy on the valves. I used 5 weight oil in my carbs. Valves were 25 thousands cold- 26 hot. Idle @700. These engines always use solid lifters and were a bit noisy. Good video
Hey Dylan, great video. My carbs running very rich, before I can tune, as per your video, my chokes appear both to be stuck. I see the linage, cables, etc. but, looking for advice to free them up. Any advice would be great.
A great video!
One question: At 20:45 I thought you could only do that (syncro both carbs with te speedscrews ) with the clamping bolds, on the shaft that connects both butterflies, LOOSE! Yours are still connected..you pull the central lever up and BOTH carbs react; can’t syncro like that??? Or am I missing something???
Ok, idle is set, then, right. But when you add gass, then they are NOT syncronised.
I don't really see a need to disconnect anything when adjusting the idle unless things are way out of wack. I'd rather make adjustments while everything is hooked up; what you change on one carb will impact on the other after all.
As long as both butterflies open at the same time, it won't matter.
Hi, 240z here, will try this monday, looks straight forward enough. i'll let you know
Great video, i have been terrified of messing with the twin SU's on my rover V8. Im now confident that i can at least take them apart and clean them to see if that helps performance. I have a sticking float on one of them and it over flows could you perhaps do a video of to fix that? Many Thanks
Historically after letting car sit way too long, 10yrs plus, we got it running again, and painted up, the carb would start running rough(rich) and I would lean it via the nut underneath the card. main complaint now is it idles real high(tach doesn't wk, not sure if that caused by using pertronix ignition but seems like I had tach after putting in petronix) and 2nd complaint, the car won't to diesal or keep running sometimes when I turn it off. Time to no doubt to follow your intructions or at least tighten adjusting nuts a bit. I rebuilt carbs b4 it sat so long, that another option
Dylan, Great video maybe you could help me. For some reason my car conked out the other day and now it won't start and I suspect it's fuel ( su carbs) related. I have fuel in the float chambers but not sure if I am getting any in the carb itself, with the air filter removed should I be able to see petrol mist when trying to start? Any help would be good
Fantastic video! Going to be working on this as soon as I get new dashpot springs. I have these on a 1967 Rolls Royce. There is no easy way to get at the intake of the carburetor without removing the whole intake and choke. Is there another way you'd recommend setting fuel air mix? My black exhaust tells me I need to work on it a touch. Thanks!
Also, on further inspection, I can NOT find a way to get at the mix adjustment on the bottom. I have a V8 in the way
Great Video! I am having a problem with my MGB - black smoke backfire - I will check the mix and comment back - thanks for the video
You are probably running rich
Hi, thanks for vid, very helpful. I am about to check my Triple Su's on 66 MKx Jag, will it be the same process?
I have a 1971 Datsun 240Z and I am working on the SU carbs. I use to have this down pat, but it's been w while, and the car has sat for some time now. I have taken them completely apart, and cleaned every thing, but I am having a few issues. 1. For some reason both chocks work ok when out, but sticking when installed.2. The jet in the rear sticks a bit when all most closed, 3. For some reason the carbs are being difficult to ballance, what do you suggest as a Base Line Setting for the Throttle Adjusting screws? If you balance the carbs with the Throttle adj. screws, what is the Balance screw for?
Hello! Sounds to me like your jets aren't centered. There is a special tool that can do this, but there are other ways to get around not having the tool.
There is probably some crud / rust / dirt inside of the Jet that is not allowing them to move freely, or a spring that is no longer holding tension.
As far as the base setting, use your best judgement. If the idle bounces around or changes for seemingly no reason, you might have throttle shafts that are worn out. Spray around the intake and base of the carbs with water and see if it impacts the idle. If it does, you've got an air leak somewhere.
Thank's Dylan, from 18:30 very interesting, Ihave now an excuse to check again my TR4A... :-)
Great detailed vid! Wish you could teach everything I want to learn =)
Many thanks, clear and concise. I just need to get the gauge so I can do the twin SU's on my Bond Equipe . Thanks (Ady UK )
farve
Hi, Dylan I have an MGB1975 with twin SU HIF carbs and I cant seem to adjust it out of lean.
When I lift the piston the revs drop no matter how the mixture is adjusted.
Any help would be appreciated. Phil (Ireland)
Check for vacuum leaks on the manifold and any piping running to things like brake boosters, stuffed vac advance etc. You also need to make sure everything else is spot on with ignition (points, dizzy cap, rotor button, condenser, plugs and leads), timing (Including checking the vac advance and mechanical advance), tappet clearances, compression etc before you go near the carbs. They are the last thing to look at in a tune up, but often missed. Good luck. 👍
I am sure that you have a vacuum leak. When there is a air leak in the intake manifold, you can never set up your carbs. One way to find the leak is to spray carb cleaner onto different locations on the intake manifold and river piping. Another way is to use an unlit blow torch and aim the nozzles at different locations including all the rubber pipes. When the engine speeds up while gassing a location, that is where the vacuum leak is located!
you are my hear thanks a lot for your very good video which helps a lot :-) greetings from Bavaria Germany
I have a 1960 tr3a with suh6 carbs. I liked this video very much. Looking for the tool you used to adjust the air flow. can't find one anywhere. do you have any suggestions?
Ipd carry’s it.
Hello i have a question i have motorcycle with hif38 carb on custom
manifold. Mine question is about the vacuum advance port should i block
it or keep it unblocked? there is nowhere for it to connect and it vacuums to air.
Hi Dylan. Great video. What is the brand name of that carb synch tool you used, and where can I buy one? Thanks.
Ipd website has them
Thank you so much lol. No one will work on my SU’s so now I feel a lot better about tackling them myself.
How do I know if I need a full rebuild, or just a clean and adjustment ?
Hi
Have you checked the throttle shafts for sideways movement?
Hi Dylan, i have a reliant robin trike and i have turned up the mixture adjustment as far as it will go on my su carb but its still running rich. Pls advise
I'm an old school SU mechanic from back in the day, there are lots of variables with SU's like float levels, needle position in the piston, needles not bent, jet centers, piston stops, sloppy linkages.....bla bla bla but your piston springs are missing!
Very clear instructions. Perfect video editing. I have a volvo 122 with the same carbs. My wife was following me and she said that the car smelled a lot of exhaust. Do you think the car is running rich or to lean?
+mportklr It's probably running too rich, but no matter what you do, the car will always smell of exhaust for anyone behind you. It's certainly not a modern car in that respect!
+Dylan Berichon when I get the car running I will do this SU Carb setting. Thanks for the reply.
Very good walk through. Thanks!
Superb video, honestly , thanks. My TR7 loves you
This makes so much sense. Awesome
Hello Dylon, i have a question, if s u stands for skinners union, what does DAF stand for, thank you in advance
Great video looks easy too! What would cause my idle to rise after car has been run for awhile? Typically it will idle at 1200 rpm when it first starts up then, after the car has been driven it will rise up to 2000rpm which is too fast. What causes this rise in rpm and what do you think is the cause? Thanks!
You've got an air leak somewhere. Probably at the throttle shafts.
I don't know about the rest of you, but I can't change the jet nut with just my fingers. lol maybe I'm just weak. Great Vid!
This was incredibly helpful. Thank you so much.