Great, very comprehensive video. Step by step logical process and well explained. John Twist watch out! I am going to send him a spanner to fit the jet nut, to save him using that adjustable!!! (also an MGTD owner, 1951)
One of the best, if not, the best video on tuning SU's. You gave clear and concise explanations; and the camera views were nice clear. The video will be a big help with my MGB with dual HIF4's. Great job!!
Thanks for posting this. Many videos on SU's out there, but this is the only one I found that covers initial setup followed by tuning after a total rebuild. Your carbs are very similar to the H6's on my '120 Jags so I've taken step-by-step notes that I'll be referring to at initial start-up. Thanks.
I can't believe I found a good video that starts out with EXACTLY the issue I am having on the 67 MGB I got. Will NOT start when cold. At all. Does just fine with starter fluid, though. I can not wait to dig into the carbs with your help now!!!
I couldn’t help myself. But watch. As I’m in the cleaning stages of my hs2 carbs for my triumph herald , Thank you for the info and taking the time to share with us. Like£ and subscribed for more.
thank you. very informative, I have a '52 MGTD that I have been trying to set up with varying results. what I like about this video is the recording of the exhaust note , a picture doesn't cut it. I have no idea what splashy sounds like.
Love your video. I had my first car when I was 12 years old (1972), it was a 1964 MG Midget Mark 11 with an 1100 CC engine. It is all of the same as my car. I wish I could have had this video way back when. Love that car when it run :-) Thanks for the knowledge.
@@Resto.Nation Its was very informational. i had to tune my MG winging it. Seeing your car makes me want to get another one. Notng like a real sports car. My Corvette isn't the same feel as my MG.
Thanks for this video, I knew the info already, but couldn’t get my carbs to what they’re supposed to, but seeing it done and the order you did and some of the things you said made the bulb over my head go off.😄
Would have been nice to know all this stuff 50 years ago when I had my TR-3. I did keep a piece of hose in the drivers door to adjust the carbs once in awhile. Very informative video.
Wonderfull!! Thank you very much. We will use it on our jaguar's 140, 150, s and mk2. A lot of work before summer but we like it. You do beautyfull work there!!!!
Just had my twin HS6 refurbed by someone and I'm putting them back on now. This is so helpful and beautifully explained. Here's hoping I can replicate that! lol
@@Resto.Nation Thanks. One question. I'm connecting mine all up tonight with luck. The choke thing. Do you connect the cable so that the choke lever on the carb is fully open when the choke knob is pulled out fully? or is that a 'how long is a piece of choke cable' question lol
Thanks. Yes condensor on order now. I've read the SU tuning guide. I'll have to measure the step where the jet is below the bridge and allow for it when I make the initial setting.👍
Aup mate just want to say thank you for this video. I've got a 1975 spitfire 1500 with twin SU carbs. I've been having some right bother with it not running right. I've already been through the timing and used a gunson colour tune to adjust the fuel to air ratio and got it somthing like but I wasn't happy. I've loosened every linkage on the carbs taken throttle and choke off followed your guide and the car runs better than ever 👍
One of the most important parts, assembling the jet assembly, was in fast forward (4:45). Maybe ff the second one or edit it out, but many of us are watching because we want to know.....not get sea sick!
awesome looking car. It's amazing what Burlens produce. I would add that to set carbs, the ignition timing, valve clearance and vacuum systems have to be 100%.
Really good vid. The only observation I would make is that the base setting for the jets that I was taught back in the day was 12 flats, rather than 9. Normally spot on for most applications and sounds like you eventually riched it out to around there in the end anyway.
Love this advice, I have a 1967 Hornet that I'm about to get running after 30 years, was in fine working order in 1993 and it's sat in a dry garage, but I don't yet know the condition of the carb.
This is the best I have seen. I am struggling with my TR3A (H6) and I have a very hard pull choke. Although I polished the jets, I did not de-burr them. I am about to remove the jets and reassemble. My biggest problem is adjusting the two nuts (jet adjusting nut) and jet locking screw (large nut) . Either they are so loose they make the jet slide easily but leak fuel or so tight-----etc. What is your secret about how tight to tighten the locking screw?
Thanks for the kind words. I’m struggling to remember now as it was quite a while ago but I would say not to go too loose on them as leakage of fuel in that area is a no go!
This will come in handy, Just bought a 55 ford zephyr with a racing aluminium raymond mays cylinder head with twin su h4’s, If you are in the south east you could help me tune it lol
Great video, I do wish you had shown the actual idle adjustment and the jet adjustment. Being new to SU carbs on my new to me Austin Healey Sprite, I am positive they need some tuning.
The idle adjustment is down to air flow thru the carb and both carbs need to be set up evenly. The jet is set as a base setting and then adjusted in accordance to how your lift pins affect the idle... hope that helps.
@@Resto.Nation What I mean is (I will order a manual) which are the idle screws and what adjustment is made to adjust the jets. More of a what part is needed to be adjusted.
Ok cool, the idle is set as a base in the “setting throttle screws” section and the jets are set in the “setting the jet height” section. They are wound out anti clockwise to richen the mixture and clockwise to lean the mixture.
Great explained and a perfect job done! Do you know what kind of SU-Carbs has the Bentley S3 build in 1964? I need data for restore. Thanks and greetings from Bangkok.
Great video. How well does this tune hold when you put the air cleaners back on? Will you have to perform another tweak for the slight added air restriction from the filters?
Love the video as it’s helping me set up my MGB. I’m adjusting the jets both in and out and for some reason I cannot get any change in engine note. The engine is running lean as the rhythm is very inconsistent with no real pattern. I can get the revs to about 650 but the engine sounds like it is laboring a little with a lot of vibration. Any thoughts?
Loved the vid brilliant. So one question, when listing the piston pins to raise the piston to check mixture, do you hold the pin up or just push the pin up and let go? Thanks again
Very informative thank you. Just one quick question. I have two classic cars both with twin SU carbs. On my Wolseley Six the overflow outlets are connected by a hose, whereas on my MGB GT the overflow pipes are not connected to each other. Is one wrong or are both set ups ok? Cheers.
The ones on our healey go down the block to the floor and drip if they overflow. I wouldn’t say the outlets should be linked unless there is a t section for it to terminate safely if they overflow...
Thanks for the video. Very informative. I just put triple su on my tr6. Major improvement over my webers. Got my colortune for the air mixture setting and its dialed in pretty good.just some minor things I need to iron out. When I use choke for a cold start it revs between 2 and 3 thousand rpms. Need to figure out how to lower that rev at choke time. Car runs amazing well after it warms up at about 950 rpm idle. However, when I drive it at high speeds and come to a complete stop the idle drops really low momentarily before it comes back to normal. Sometimes it drops to the point it almost stalls. But this only lasts a few seconds. Any tips ? Thanks.
Hi mate, Thanks for the comments. I know it sounds silly, but have you tried pulling the choke out less? Re the dip in rpms it might be something sticking, maybe alignment of linkages somewhere? Finally, after I filmed this video I bought a carb balancer to check air flow thru each carb. It wasn’t too expensive and double checked my work. It would have made the job more accurate from the get go and you’ve got an extra carb to consider so there is more room for error. This would be the route I would go down for accuracy and to eliminate extra factors that could affect the running of your car. If you can price they are all balanced from an air flow point of view you can cross that off your list...
I can never get the jets flush with the bridge, they always sit slightly below (when the jet screws are wound fully up.. ) Any way this can be adjusted? Thanks
I've been struggling a bit to tune by ear; I really wish I could find a video so I could listen to the exhaust note of a lean and a rich condition. Can you do one or do you know of a good example to follow?
Nate Marsh I haven’t sorry. I was listening for the balance of the carbs with my ear and I have since confirmed they are correct with a carb synchroniser. I would recommend that to use if you don’t want to use the old school method...
A good instructional video. However I must have missed the part about syncing the carbs together above idle, or does the A/H not have an adjustment for that. I do know that the Japanese cars that use twin SU's are able to be adjusted for off idle or cruise condition. Also wouldn't using a carb sync to adjust the carbs individually and together be a lot more accurate than using the hose to the ear? I did think you did a good job overall.
Thanks mate. In not too sure about the balance at higher revs sorry. Regarding using a carb sync, I used it to check my work after and the carbs were correct. It’s an expensive bit of kit that not everyone has access to so I wanted to make it a guide that everyone at home can do with no special tools.
@@Resto.Nation The carb sync that I am talking about is by Uni-Syn right now it is only $26.95 on Amazon. I do understand trying to keep the repairs on a budget however after not heedomg the advice of my team mates at the time I did not wear ear plugs while dyno tuning or at the race track and now I can not hear very well.This one works great on Webers, SU's, I have even fabricated adapters to sync 3 2V's on the old Pontiac's with the tri power set up. By the way, keep up the good vids. Yours is one of the better ones I've seen. Oh yeah, on the syncing the carbs at cruise... Datsun had a different linkage setup than the TR3 has so it was possible and necessary. I just finished replacing the fuel lines, fuel pump, fuel tank (aluminum) and rebuilding the carbs on a 59 TR3 that had been sitting for 15 plus years. Tomorrow I'll change the oil and filter and prep it to fire it up. This car belongs to an 89 year old lady who wants to drive it again. The whole thing was restored 15 years ago, driven home and parked in a garage with a cover over it and a third tank of fuel for the last 15 years. She also owns a show quality 65 Mustang.
Nice shiny carbs and quite a nice explanation BUT setting the float level is critical for SU's especially for multi carburettor setups as this would effect the mixture higher up the rev range. I've been 'playing' with SU's (on and off) for over 40 years and quite frankly the 'listening to the tube' method is fine if you've been shown it or you have good experience in that area BUT considering how much a restoration costs in time and money wouldn't a little more money spent on a UNI-Syn or something similar be a worthwhile investment, not a cost, to do the job properly (if you're a member of a classic car club, maybe even borrow one!)? Sorry to labour ('labor' for our American friends!) the point but float levels are very important in a multi SU installation especially!
Hi, thx for your Video. Are you experienced with those of the Jaguar XJ 6 too? The front one is equipped with the AED. It´s popping aut of the orifice of the front one. Missfiring and stalling. Besides, Compression is a bit poor. Ignition ist good. Cheers, Axel
Please could you show me some photo, or Diagram of which adjustment is which? I understood the video, but it didn’t show which was each screw. ! I have an etype, and the carbs need setting so it will drive to a carb man! But I don’t know which does what. Many thanks!!
can you helpme?? i have a jagura mk2 1967 .34 with 2 carbs su hd6 ..there are leak bottom of the plenum thru the zirks (front)...the levers and nedless are good.....
Hello. Very useful and informative thank you. I'll be tuning my carbs soon but will be using the special SU tool (rods and wires) which enable checking the air balance at revs as well as idle, but the instructions don't say if these should be placed in the dashpots with or without oil. Any idea? Cheers
@@Resto.Nation Many thanks for your reply. Yes that is what I'd have thought too, but it's frustrating that it doesn't say so in the instructions, nor anywhere on the internet (that I can find!)
@@Resto.Nation I tuned the carbs yesterday and balanced using the special SU tool of rods and wires (PSW Made in West Germany) and it worked perfectly with oil in the dashpot and I was able to balance the carbs at revs which you wouldn't be able to do with a synchrometer. (Unless you had two of course!)
The carburettors were adjusted independently,nothing was mentioned about when and how they are joined back together and how they are set so butterfly's open in sync?
You mentioned that you put the jet in without the spring, then you locked in the jet carrier position with your spanner and then you removed jet and replaced spring znf reinserted jet being careful not to snag the two cork gland washers. Can you comment on this? It sounds wonderful but what is success rate of not snagging and destroying the cork washer? I will try it tomorrow.
It’s been a long time since I did this but they were snagged when they were rebuilt when we bought them so it’s something to watch out for. Lubricate them a bit to help.
wow. such a quick response. I am a new subscriber and I intend to watch all your videos now that I happened to find you when I searched on Google for "SU". BTW, I put a thumbs down on the chap below who thought you were too casual about float level. But, you could not have been clearer. 7/16" drill bit is the triple A way of checking level, right from the original SU manual. Keep up the good work. I am a new fan!!! ps- dual SU H6's on my TR3A.
Faffing with my P6 TC at the moment, my adjustments screws are ****ed, where did you get those lovely knurled ones with the springs?? I ordered a kit from SU but they sent me the wrong ones.
put a filter on that thing.. an extra fuel filter before it gets to the carbonator will do just fine, if you are gettin rubber pieces then your filter isn't fine enough.
My jet isn't flush with the bridge when screws are turned fully up. What do I need to do? I have wound the jet screws down two full turns, but still it doesn't idle very smoothly. Any comments please?
@@ianwilliams4787 there is a bit more to testing a condenser from what I’ve read online but changing it won’t hurt of cost too much. Have a read thru this regarding your adjustments. Hopefully it helps... sucarb.co.uk/technical-h-type-carburetter-tuning-single
@@Resto.Nation Not as far as you but your videos have pushed me to get busy. Im in the Chew Valley so just outside Bristol. Just finished building the engine, gearbox done, I bought a new body tub which was interesting so will be back to the bodywork once I move the engine back to my other garage.
Whats happening if the carbs start spitting. Popping back through the intake when you open the throttle? Especially if you go full throttle quickly from idle.....carbs going pop....pop pop pop.....pop....pop pop. Whats causing that? Having huge trouble tuning my triumph 2500tc.
@@Resto.Nation yeh. Brand new coil. Dizzy cap. Points and condensor, ht leads and spark plugs. All that side is brand new. I uses a timing light to set the timing to 12 degrees bedore top dead center. Haynes manual says 10 but its just a fraction smoother at 12. Car ides amazingly well. And very light revving is fine. Its just under load or if i go full throttle. It should rev smoothly. But it doesnt. Has been a real mystery to me. The set up i did what you did to a T....just. car and carbs are from 1974. And sat for 8 years in a barn. Full overhaul though. New jets. New float needle and seat. New seals. New diaphram needles. Got the right amount of the right oil in the dashpot.....got the float level about right where it needs to be. Its just not playing along how it should.....float level was an issue and mine doesnt have that bendable metal thing. Its solid plastic with a pin. To.lower the float level i have to use copper washers on the needle and seat mount. That initially was an issue. Float was too high. Got it down to about right when the choke is on and you look down the jets. How far down there should the fuel be sitting? About level with the jet with choke full on yeh?
@@evanoconnell9448 is it something breaking down under load? Can it be anything as simple as a ground? Might pay to remove and clean all grounds and apply some dielectric grease to them as it’s good practice. You can use it on your ht lead and coil connections too.
@@Resto.Nation thanks. Ill give it a try. I did have it running well. Fuel pump failed. Decided to put newer carbs on....car did not like them whatsoever. Put old ones back on. Just old issues to sort out. But it was running quite well for a bit. Ill get it back. Thanks for the help. Ill do that and see how it goes.
Great video, very well explained. Your video help me correctly tune the SU carbs on my 53 MGTD.
Great, very comprehensive video. Step by step logical process and well explained. John Twist watch out! I am going to send him a spanner to fit the jet nut, to save him using that adjustable!!! (also an MGTD owner, 1951)
Excellent step by step. Going to recheck my recently overhauled MGA carbs.
One of the best, if not, the best video on tuning SU's. You gave clear and concise explanations; and the camera views were nice clear. The video will be a big help with my MGB with dual HIF4's. Great job!!
Thanks again for the kind comments. I hope it’s a helpful video...
Thanks for posting this. Many videos on SU's out there, but this is the only one I found that covers initial setup followed by tuning after a total rebuild. Your carbs are very similar to the H6's on my '120 Jags so I've taken step-by-step notes that I'll be referring to at initial start-up. Thanks.
An outstanding explanatory video - step by step and each stage described in terms anyone can understand - thank you!
Excellent explanation. SU Carbs are always a mystery to most. Good step by step tuning video!
Mike MacLean thank you
Brilliant piece of work. You make it look easy! Thank you!
I can't believe I found a good video that starts out with EXACTLY the issue I am having on the 67 MGB I got. Will NOT start when cold. At all. Does just fine with starter fluid, though. I can not wait to dig into the carbs with your help now!!!
Good luck 😎
Then your choke is not working correctly.
Awesome! Thank you! Just switched my Spitfire to dual HS4s and this is exactly what I needed. :)
I couldn’t help myself. But watch. As I’m in the cleaning stages of my hs2 carbs for my triumph herald , Thank you for the info and taking the time to share with us. Like£ and subscribed for more.
thank you. very informative, I have a '52 MGTD that I have been trying to set up with varying results. what I like about this video is the recording of the exhaust note , a picture doesn't cut it. I have no idea what splashy sounds like.
I second your words. Excellent set by set video. Thanks!!!
Excellent reference info for setting up the carbs
Great vid, needed this to tune up a Spitfire 1500. Very helpful.
keep referring back to this vid. its brilliant. thank you.
Love your video. I had my first car when I was 12 years old (1972), it was a 1964 MG Midget Mark 11 with an 1100 CC engine. It is all of the same as my car. I wish I could have had this video way back when. Love that car when it run :-) Thanks for the knowledge.
Glad it was helpful
@@Resto.Nation Its was very informational. i had to tune my MG winging it. Seeing your car makes me want to get another one. Notng like a real sports car. My Corvette isn't the same feel as my MG.
Superb. I can learn a lot from you. You explain brilliantly. Keep it up.
Many thanks, very clearly explained and demonstrated.
Thanks for this video, I knew the info already, but couldn’t get my carbs to what they’re supposed to, but seeing it done and the order you did and some of the things you said made the bulb over my head go off.😄
Same here in NZ. Great explanation and sequence of logical steps!
Brilliant video , used this to tune my MG midget . It's running lovely now
MrRhysRich great stuff 👍🏻
After tuning my carbs based on your video my Spitfire turned into a rocket. Thanks Man!
Great stuff!
Great, excellent bit of information. I'm sure now we can get the 1275 mini singing a lot sweeter.
Good job. Very well explained. Thanks
Loving the video's dude, thanks for your all your efforts, top guy, cheers..
Excellent training video.. Such a clear presentation!
Thanks 👍🏻
Thanks for putting this video together... used the info to tune up the Triumph TR3....
Would have been nice to know all this stuff 50 years ago when I had my TR-3. I did keep a piece of hose in the drivers door to adjust the carbs once in awhile. Very informative video.
Thankyou
Wonderfull!! Thank you very much. We will use it on our jaguar's 140, 150, s and mk2. A lot of work before summer but we like it. You do beautyfull work there!!!!
Excellent video, dude! Your step by step concise instructions will now make it possible to correctly setup and tune my 1960 Bugeye Sprite! Cheers
Glad it helped! Good luck 😎
Great video! Using this for my 67 MGB
Just had my twin HS6 refurbed by someone and I'm putting them back on now. This is so helpful and beautifully explained. Here's hoping I can replicate that! lol
Glad it helped! Good luck 😎
@@Resto.Nation Thanks. One question. I'm connecting mine all up tonight with luck. The choke thing. Do you connect the cable so that the choke lever on the carb is fully open when the choke knob is pulled out fully? or is that a 'how long is a piece of choke cable' question lol
You’ve got it. From memory, it opens in 2 stages, the full pull of the choke lever would fully lower the jet(s)
Thanks. Yes condensor on order now.
I've read the SU tuning guide. I'll have to measure the step where the jet is below the bridge and allow for it when I make the initial setting.👍
Good luck with it
Nice work 🍺
Hi just found your channel, awesome, instructive, clear, concise and well put over many thanks
71 MG midget owner cheers
Thank you 😎
Super video, i am gonne adjust my tripple su carburetors again on my AC Saloon.
Best regards from the Netherlands
Thankyou. Good luck 👍🏻
Aup mate just want to say thank you for this video. I've got a 1975 spitfire 1500 with twin SU carbs. I've been having some right bother with it not running right. I've already been through the timing and used a gunson colour tune to adjust the fuel to air ratio and got it somthing like but I wasn't happy. I've loosened every linkage on the carbs taken throttle and choke off followed your guide and the car runs better than ever 👍
This is great news and exactly what the video was intended for. Glad it’s been useful 👍🏻
Thank you!
Thank you, much appreciated
One of the most important parts, assembling the jet assembly, was in fast forward (4:45). Maybe ff the second one or edit it out, but many of us are watching because we want to know.....not get sea sick!
awesome looking car. It's amazing what Burlens produce. I would add that to set carbs, the ignition timing, valve clearance and vacuum systems have to be 100%.
Thanks for the heads up 😎
I,m impressed, thankyou
No worries 😎
Would love to see close-ups of the exact srews that you are adjusting..
thanks alot man!
Molto bel video , complimenti ho imparato a regolare i miei hs 6 per Triumph tr3a , molte molte grazie Franco da Monza Italia
Really good vid. The only observation I would make is that the base setting for the jets that I was taught back in the day was 12 flats, rather than 9. Normally spot on for most applications and sounds like you eventually riched it out to around there in the end anyway.
Thanks 👍🏻
I was going to mention that (based on the SU literature) but if it works....
Love this advice, I have a 1967 Hornet that I'm about to get running after 30 years, was in fine working order in 1993 and it's sat in a dry garage, but I don't yet know the condition of the carb.
Good luck 😎
This is the best I have seen. I am struggling with my TR3A (H6) and I have a very hard pull choke. Although I polished the jets, I did not de-burr them. I am about to remove the jets and reassemble. My biggest problem is adjusting the two nuts (jet adjusting nut) and jet locking screw (large nut) . Either they are so loose they make the jet slide easily but leak fuel or so tight-----etc. What is your secret about how tight to tighten the locking screw?
Thanks for the kind words.
I’m struggling to remember now as it was quite a while ago but I would say not to go too loose on them as leakage of fuel in that area is a no go!
This will come in handy, Just bought a 55 ford zephyr with a racing aluminium raymond mays cylinder head with twin su h4’s, If you are in the south east you could help me tune it lol
Haha south east of which country?!
@@Resto.Nation UK
Beauty mate.
Thanks 😊
Outstanding presentation, thank you very much. Do you sell the SU overhaul kits?
Thanks, no I don’t sorry. They should be readily available online tho...
Great video, I do wish you had shown the actual idle adjustment and the jet adjustment. Being new to SU carbs on my new to me Austin Healey Sprite, I am positive they need some tuning.
The idle adjustment is down to air flow thru the carb and both carbs need to be set up evenly. The jet is set as a base setting and then adjusted in accordance to how your lift pins affect the idle... hope that helps.
@@Resto.Nation What I mean is (I will order a manual) which are the idle screws and what adjustment is made to adjust the jets. More of a what part is needed to be adjusted.
Ok cool, the idle is set as a base in the “setting throttle screws” section and the jets are set in the “setting the jet height” section. They are wound out anti clockwise to richen the mixture and clockwise to lean the mixture.
Great explained and a perfect job done! Do you know what kind of SU-Carbs has the Bentley S3 build in 1964? I need data for restore. Thanks and greetings from Bangkok.
Thankyou. No I don’t sorry.
Great video. How well does this tune hold when you put the air cleaners back on? Will you have to perform another tweak for the slight added air restriction from the filters?
Thanks. The car will be fine tuned again before it’s run in miles 👍🏻
Love the video as it’s helping me set up my MGB. I’m adjusting the jets both in and out and for some reason I cannot get any change in engine note. The engine is running lean as the rhythm is very inconsistent with no real pattern. I can get the revs to about 650 but the engine sounds like it is laboring a little with a lot of vibration. Any thoughts?
Are they balanced? Maybe one is lean and the other rich which is why you aren’t getting the change in note. Have they been rebuilt?
Great video. I noticed that you had a "Colortune" kit. Why didn't you use it to set the correct jet levels?
I’ve not found the colortune to be as good. Each to their own
Loved the vid brilliant. So one question, when listing the piston pins to raise the piston to check mixture, do you hold the pin up or just push the pin up and let go? Thanks again
Lift up and hold from memory.
Very informative thank you. Just one quick question. I have two classic cars both with twin SU carbs. On my Wolseley Six the overflow outlets are connected by a hose, whereas on my MGB GT the overflow pipes are not connected to each other. Is one wrong or are both set ups ok? Cheers.
The ones on our healey go down the block to the floor and drip if they overflow. I wouldn’t say the outlets should be linked unless there is a t section for it to terminate safely if they overflow...
Thanks for the video. Very informative. I just put triple su on my tr6. Major improvement over my webers. Got my colortune for the air mixture setting and its dialed in pretty good.just some minor things I need to iron out.
When I use choke for a cold start it revs between 2 and 3 thousand rpms. Need to figure out how to lower that rev at choke time.
Car runs amazing well after it warms up at about 950 rpm idle. However, when I drive it at high speeds and come to a complete stop the idle drops really low momentarily before it comes back to normal. Sometimes it drops to the point it almost stalls. But this only lasts a few seconds.
Any tips ?
Thanks.
Hi mate,
Thanks for the comments. I know it sounds silly, but have you tried pulling the choke out less?
Re the dip in rpms it might be something sticking, maybe alignment of linkages somewhere?
Finally, after I filmed this video I bought a carb balancer to check air flow thru each carb. It wasn’t too expensive and double checked my work.
It would have made the job more accurate from the get go and you’ve got an extra carb to consider so there is more room for error. This would be the route I would go down for accuracy and to eliminate extra factors that could affect the running of your car. If you can price they are all balanced from an air flow point of view you can cross that off your list...
@@Resto.Nation thanks. Here is the set running on my tr6. th-cam.com/video/auZlUzJEFos/w-d-xo.html
@@jtorralb they sound amazing!!! Makes me want a a TR6!
I can never get the jets flush with the bridge, they always sit slightly below (when the jet screws are wound fully up.. )
Any way this can be adjusted?
Thanks
I've been struggling a bit to tune by ear; I really wish I could find a video so I could listen to the exhaust note of a lean and a rich condition. Can you do one or do you know of a good example to follow?
Nate Marsh I haven’t sorry. I was listening for the balance of the carbs with my ear and I have since confirmed they are correct with a carb synchroniser. I would recommend that to use if you don’t want to use the old school method...
A good instructional video. However I must have missed the part about syncing the carbs together above idle, or does the A/H not have an adjustment for that. I do know that the Japanese cars that use twin SU's are able to be adjusted for off idle or cruise condition. Also wouldn't using a carb sync to adjust the carbs individually and together be a lot more accurate than using the hose to the ear? I did think you did a good job overall.
Thanks mate. In not too sure about the balance at higher revs sorry. Regarding using a carb sync, I used it to check my work after and the carbs were correct. It’s an expensive bit of kit that not everyone has access to so I wanted to make it a guide that everyone at home can do with no special tools.
@@Resto.Nation The carb sync that I am talking about is by Uni-Syn right now it is only $26.95 on Amazon. I do understand trying to keep the repairs on a budget however after not heedomg the advice of my team mates at the time I did not wear ear plugs while dyno tuning or at the race track and now I can not hear very well.This one works great on Webers, SU's, I have even fabricated adapters to sync 3 2V's on the old Pontiac's with the tri power set up. By the way, keep up the good vids. Yours is one of the better ones I've seen. Oh yeah, on the syncing the carbs at cruise... Datsun had a different linkage setup than the TR3 has so it was possible and necessary. I just finished replacing the fuel lines, fuel pump, fuel tank (aluminum) and rebuilding the carbs on a 59 TR3 that had been sitting for 15 plus years. Tomorrow I'll change the oil and filter and prep it to fire it up. This car belongs to an 89 year old lady who wants to drive it again. The whole thing was restored 15 years ago, driven home and parked in a garage with a cover over it and a third tank of fuel for the last 15 years. She also owns a show quality 65 Mustang.
Nice shiny carbs and quite a nice explanation BUT setting the float level is critical for SU's especially for multi carburettor setups as this would effect the mixture higher up the rev range. I've been 'playing' with SU's (on and off) for over 40 years and quite frankly the 'listening to the tube' method is fine if you've been shown it or you have good experience in that area BUT considering how much a restoration costs in time and money wouldn't a little more money spent on a UNI-Syn or something similar be a worthwhile investment, not a cost, to do the job properly (if you're a member of a classic car club, maybe even borrow one!)? Sorry to labour ('labor' for our American friends!) the point but float levels are very important in a multi SU installation especially!
Hi, great vid. I would love to have you set my SUs on my Datsun 240Z. Possible? or can you recommed anyone in / near London?
I can’t sorry bud. It’s only a hobby for me. I know a guy in Bristol if you want tho? Also, I didn’t realise the datsuns were on SU’s?
Hi, thx for your Video. Are you experienced with those of the Jaguar XJ 6 too? The front one is equipped with the AED. It´s popping aut of the orifice of the front one. Missfiring and stalling. Besides, Compression is a bit poor. Ignition ist good. Cheers, Axel
I haven’t worked in the xj6 sorry I can’t help.
@@Resto.Nation ok, thx for quick reply, anyway
John Twist says 90 weight
I’ve read forum posts that state 5w50 is the way to go. I say find what works for your car.
Show the use of the tube for tuning. Play the sound of the exhaust
Good idea 👍🏻
Please could you show me some photo, or Diagram of which adjustment is which?
I understood the video, but it didn’t show which was each screw. !
I have an etype, and the carbs need setting so it will drive to a carb man!
But I don’t know which does what.
Many thanks!!
Try www.sucarb.co.uk 👍🏻
can you helpme?? i have a jagura mk2 1967 .34 with 2 carbs su hd6 ..there are leak bottom of the plenum thru the zirks (front)...the levers and nedless are good.....
By zirks do you mean jets? If so maybe the needle and or jet is worn out and not sealing.
Hello. Very useful and informative thank you. I'll be tuning my carbs soon but will be using the special SU tool (rods and wires) which enable checking the air balance at revs as well as idle, but the instructions don't say if these should be placed in the dashpots with or without oil. Any idea? Cheers
DavidUKesb I’ve not seen the SU tools but I would say with to create a real world situation??
@@Resto.Nation Many thanks for your reply. Yes that is what I'd have thought too, but it's frustrating that it doesn't say so in the instructions, nor anywhere on the internet (that I can find!)
DavidUKesb nightmare! Let me know if you ever find out. I would be entrigued....
@@Resto.Nation Will do. Hopefully be this week I'll have a go.
@@Resto.Nation I tuned the carbs yesterday and balanced using the special SU tool of rods and wires (PSW Made in West Germany) and it worked perfectly with oil in the dashpot and I was able to balance the carbs at revs which you wouldn't be able to do with a synchrometer. (Unless you had two of course!)
The carburettors were adjusted independently,nothing was mentioned about when and how they are joined back together and how they are set so butterfly's open in sync?
Ozzie Katri they are joined by the linkage that I disconnected at the beginning to make them indépendant for testing 👍🏻
You mentioned that you put the jet in without the spring, then you locked in the jet carrier position with your spanner and then you removed jet and replaced spring znf reinserted jet being careful not to snag the two cork gland washers. Can you comment on this? It sounds wonderful but what is success rate of not snagging and destroying the cork washer? I will try it tomorrow.
It’s been a long time since I did this but they were snagged when they were rebuilt when we bought them so it’s something to watch out for. Lubricate them a bit to help.
wow. such a quick response. I am a new subscriber and I intend to watch all your videos now that I happened to find you when I searched on Google for "SU".
BTW, I put a thumbs down on the chap below who thought you were too casual about float level. But, you could not have been clearer. 7/16" drill bit is the triple A way of checking level, right from the original SU manual.
Keep up the good work. I am a new fan!!!
ps- dual SU H6's on my TR3A.
@@isaacc5299 thankyou 👍🏻. I’ve got a soft spot for the tr3a 😎. Enjoy.
Faffing with my P6 TC at the moment, my adjustments screws are ****ed, where did you get those lovely knurled ones with the springs?? I ordered a kit from SU but they sent me the wrong ones.
Contact Burlen direct. They can match the tag on your carbs to the exact model you have and send you what you need.
@@Resto.Nation Cheers, I'll try that.
@@Resto.Nation They sent the wrong ones again. Got the vanilla screws with nuts. 😠
Where are the needles set in relation to the bot. of the piston?
Adj wrench is OK for jet nut?
Of course. It’s just a six sided nut 👍🏻
put a filter on that thing.. an extra fuel filter before it gets to the carbonator will do just fine, if you are gettin rubber pieces then your filter isn't fine enough.
i hope you have a fume extractor!
I do. It’s a door…
@@Resto.Nation that may not be enough, seriously. Check it out with a CO tester. That aside, nice video and lovely Healey.
@@elvislagonda4738 I’ve moved now and building more garages (see latest vids) I will look into it. Thanks 👍🏻
My jet isn't flush with the bridge when screws are turned fully up. What do I need to do?
I have wound the jet screws down two full turns, but still it doesn't idle very smoothly. Any comments please?
Single or twins? What car? What carb?
Twin H4 on a ZB Magnette.
Out of interest, I've just checked the condenser today. Zero resistance, so I reckon that's failed anyway. 😯
@@ianwilliams4787 there is a bit more to testing a condenser from what I’ve read online but changing it won’t hurt of cost too much. Have a read thru this regarding your adjustments. Hopefully it helps...
sucarb.co.uk/technical-h-type-carburetter-tuning-single
Where you too? I’m restoring a 100 4 in Bristol, you local?
Very local to Bristol 👍🏻. How far into it are you?
@@Resto.Nation Not as far as you but your videos have pushed me to get busy. Im in the Chew Valley so just outside Bristol. Just finished building the engine, gearbox done, I bought a new body tub which was interesting so will be back to the bodywork once I move the engine back to my other garage.
@@jasonbrooke1302 nice touch. Body tub from AH or Dave Hardwick?
Hola tengo uno igual cuando lo apago queda con autoencendido y no se lo puedo quitar si me puedes ayudar gracias
So does it run on for a few seconds and then stop eventually?
And fit super dry seal kit to jet. The corks won't seal properly.
This came with the rubber style seals 👍🏻
Whats happening if the carbs start spitting. Popping back through the intake when you open the throttle? Especially if you go full throttle quickly from idle.....carbs going pop....pop pop pop.....pop....pop pop.
Whats causing that? Having huge trouble tuning my triumph 2500tc.
Sounds more timing than mixture. Do you know the timing is correct?
@@Resto.Nation yeh. Brand new coil. Dizzy cap. Points and condensor, ht leads and spark plugs. All that side is brand new. I uses a timing light to set the timing to 12 degrees bedore top dead center. Haynes manual says 10 but its just a fraction smoother at 12.
Car ides amazingly well. And very light revving is fine. Its just under load or if i go full throttle. It should rev smoothly. But it doesnt. Has been a real mystery to me. The set up i did what you did to a T....just. car and carbs are from 1974. And sat for 8 years in a barn. Full overhaul though. New jets. New float needle and seat. New seals. New diaphram needles. Got the right amount of the right oil in the dashpot.....got the float level about right where it needs to be. Its just not playing along how it should.....float level was an issue and mine doesnt have that bendable metal thing. Its solid plastic with a pin. To.lower the float level i have to use copper washers on the needle and seat mount. That initially was an issue. Float was too high. Got it down to about right when the choke is on and you look down the jets. How far down there should the fuel be sitting? About level with the jet with choke full on yeh?
@@evanoconnell9448 is it something breaking down under load? Can it be anything as simple as a ground? Might pay to remove and clean all grounds and apply some dielectric grease to them as it’s good practice. You can use it on your ht lead and coil connections too.
@@Resto.Nation thanks. Ill give it a try. I did have it running well. Fuel pump failed. Decided to put newer carbs on....car did not like them whatsoever. Put old ones back on. Just old issues to sort out. But it was running quite well for a bit. Ill get it back. Thanks for the help. Ill do that and see how it goes.
@@evanoconnell9448 good luck with it.
You left out the step where you re couple the carbs
Thanks for the heads up.
Good vid mate...however please refer to the measuring stick as a Rule and not a Ruler...the Queen is a ruler...an Engineer uses a Rule.
Blame my maths teacher in school haha!
@@Resto.Nation Hahahaha...will do...Maths teachers think they know everything!
@@stevewoodward7850 agreed 😂
Is it possible that my carb is running so heavy that it’s leaking?
It also might be the float.
Please let me know
Where is it leaking from?
Straight out the carb
Like out of the air intake the air
It’s coming out of carb where it sucks in air
Were did you buy kit from
We had the original ones restored by Burlen in the U.K.
They look the same as my db3 carburettors I need my ones sorting your video help me put them back together thanks
Can I fly you to me to do mine? LOL
Of course 😎
One of my carbs is leaking gas. What could it be
From what part? The overflow?
If you take off the air intake the it’s coming out from the carb piston
Can you do mine?!
i was under the impression that the carbs had been profe$$ionally rebuilt. hmmm...
Haha no comment…
Ohh the adjustable wrench 🤦♂️
Incredible isn’t it! Literally fits everything 😍
Please show the car?
Thanks. There is a full build series on my TH-cam channel on the full restoration and more updates very soon 👍🏻
Good theoretical video, but lacking the demonstration of real-time adjustments while the engine is actually running. Good effort though..
Stop. With silly music…please