Thanks for that great tip at the end. And... thank you for sharing. I am a complete amateur and I ordered loft boards from B & Q .. that is coming tomorrow!! I was freaking out, but am calmer now that I have watched this video and saw your reply about not having to raise the boards. I thought I was going to have to go and order more wood and revise my plan!!!!! Appreciate this video, very much. (now all I am worried about if the wiring in the loft - I am going to cut out grooves in the joists to leave them where they are, but lower the wiring under the boards - rather than just slap boards on top of wiring)!!!!! I just hope there is a tiny bit of flexibility in the wiring. I do not have any downlighter or anything else that will be awkward ). Just doing what you did here - partial loft only.
Good luck buddy, take your time, pay attention to anything that might be in your way. Make a note of the cables and make sure your watch your footing, you don’t want to end up the the room below 👍🏻
That's a great video thanks. Love your style of presentation & narration. Informative, simple to follow steps & the speeded up video an absolute bonus.
… I’m thinking of following your system for a portion of my loft for light storage for cases and some books and a few kids toys … the sides would be 2.2 metre x 3.0 metre … using kiln dried treated wood for the 3 by 2. I’ve calculated the whole structure would weigh about 45kg plus the weight of the chip boards to cover it … house built in 1980 … I’m concerned that the frame adds a fair amount of extra weight to be supported by the joists and just wanted your opinion … obviously just an opinion since you couldn’t give any detailed advice not having seen the job … great video btw👍
I am about to do my loft. I don't have a nail gun so it will be screwed. Will the glue still be necessary? Shouldn't there be a gap between the top of the insulation and the underside of the boards for air-flow?
Nice efficient job there mate. I'm doing exactly the same setup with the same materials minus the handy nail gun I'm afraid. The perks of being a pro. Never mind I'll manage.
i was going to do mine like this basically build a 2x2 frame then loftboard, but i thought you had to raise it up on legs so it's not pushing the insulation down causing the ceiling to bulge etc, mine looks exactly as you had here 👍
If you don't care about global warming or your heating bill, by all mens build it like this. If you squash the insulation it reduces it's effectiveness. If you store too much weight on the boards, the ceiling below will deflect and possibly crack at plasterboard joints, because the ceiling joists weren't designed for the loading that floor joists can take. And by gluing and nailing the boards down rather than screwing without glue, that will make any future rewiring of lights much more difficult and expensive.
I can see that your insulation isn't at 270mm..... I need to do this same job in my house and what you have done here is ideal for what I need. However, Does it really matter if my insulation Isn't at 270mm, in terms of a regs point of view? If I fit flooring on top of 270mm insulation I won't have much headroom left in the loft, rendering the whole process useless for my needs. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Great video, thanks.
Nice video mate but I was just wondering if using glue is really necessary because surely a couple of nails here & there would be sufficient on what is just a floating floor
You could get away with just screwing but I wouldn’t recommend just a few screws I would say atleast 3 screws at each joist as this will add strength to the structure, I would always suggest using glue as this is belt and braces.
Thank you for this. I am wondering (in case I missed you saying) why you created a base on top of the joists. Is it to raise it up from the joists to leave a gap between the insulation? I have insulation (largely deteriorated) by if I already have the roof spray insulated between the roof rafters, couldn’t I just lay floor boards on rafters? If so, does it still matter if the insulation touches the floor nboards or should I remove enough to leave a ‘moisture’ space? Thank you.
Top video, going to do mine similar. What size is the boarding joists you are using please and how do you know where to fix that first centre board so the off cuts fit so perfectly each end. Sorry I’m terrible at measuring!
Great video, it’s a job far beyond my capabilities but I wanted to see what was involved. I’ve recently moved into a new flat and I’m looking to have a bit of my loft boarded for some extra storage storage, but I’ve been told I can’t because the void forms the building structure. It’s a new build and I was counting on more surface space to store some relatively small boxes. The heaviest would be (roughly) a 40 x 60cm box of cookery books. Does anyone have any suggestions? The previous owner has boarded a small section and he suggested I went for an option that can be easily removed. Any help or advice greatly received. New subscriber. Hopefully I’ll find a video within my skill set - I always learn a lot. Thanks for taking the time to make this.
Many thanks for a great video. It was very clear, concise and easy to follow. Would it be reasonable to say that the T&G chipboard you used for the floor also contributes to the insulation in the attic? So the floored area is now better insulated than before due to the effect of the chipboard added to that of the fibreglass? Thanks again.
Thank you very much for your comment, yes in theory what your saying makes sense and I am inclined to agree with you although I couldn’t say for sure. Thanks again for your comment 👍🏻
Chipboard is nowhere near as good an insulator as fibreglass. Yes there is a small amount of insulation from the chipboard, but if you sqash say 150mm of fibreglass down to 75mm that reduces it's insulation value down to slightly less than that of 75mm thich fibreglass. So overall here, this loft now is less well insulated. Good job there isn't an energy crisis.
I wouldn’t worry to much about level as it’s not a “floor” as such, I would however aim for reasonably flat as you will find it hard to lay the tongue and groove board otherwise, you can shoot for level but I wouldn’t stress to much about it.
Would you be too concerned about the added weight on the old timbers? Was going to do something similar but was going to try anchor into the walls to spread load or would you not worry. Say worry I mean more cracks in the plastered ceiling 😂😂🤦♂️
I mean it all depends on what you going to be strong up there, the additional timbers I put in will help to spread the weight, where possible I would try to utilise the internal walls that are underneath where your putting the stuff your storing. Also I would try and space the stuff out rather then putting all in one big pile in the middle. To be honest I have never had any problems when doing this for customers. If you are worried about the timbers in your roof you could always laminate these (glue and bolt extra timbers to the side of them) to give them extra strength. Hope this makes sense and helps buddy.
Ohh yes mate, to be honest if this was a floor that had a lot of traffic I.e a bedroom or something I would screw it anyway just incase it squeaks at all. Cheers for the comment 👍🏻
Loft boarding novice here. Your video was really good, very concise. I toyed with the idea of raising the floor a bit but have you done it purely to fit the insulation underneath that was already there or is there an issue fixing the boards directly to joists? My joists are 600mm apart so presumably you did it at 400mm for strength? My main concern is the strength of my roof. The frames are 100mm x 35mm at 600mm spacings.
The frame on too was for added support and also not to squash the insulation as building regulations state it has to be minimum of 270 mm thick and if insulation is flattened it does not work efficiently and also can put pressure on the bedroom ceiling causing cracks and damage
It’s common practice to glue boards down, stops them squeaking, if the boards have to be removed which is very unlikely, they can cut the section out then re glue it back in.
Thank you very much, yes you can the only reason for lifting the flooring off is to get more insulation in there. As the insulation was already in place I didn’t want to remove it.
Cleaning advice at the end was golden🪙
Cheers buddy, got to share the knowledge mate 😂
The best tip of all haha was the use cold water before opening your paws with hot water 😅😅😅😂nice vid
I am surprised that you used a nail gun and glue, we use screws just in case it has to come up again for any reason. Well done though, good job !
Nice to watch a pro doing the job! Cheers mate
Cheers Mike, much appreciated ! 🍻
Best loft boarding vid on YT… !!
Thanks buddy! Much appreciated 🍻👍
Thanks for that great tip at the end. And... thank you for sharing. I am a complete amateur and I ordered loft boards from B & Q .. that is coming tomorrow!! I was freaking out, but am calmer now that I have watched this video and saw your reply about not having to raise the boards. I thought I was going to have to go and order more wood and revise my plan!!!!! Appreciate this video, very much. (now all I am worried about if the wiring in the loft - I am going to cut out grooves in the joists to leave them where they are, but lower the wiring under the boards - rather than just slap boards on top of wiring)!!!!! I just hope there is a tiny bit of flexibility in the wiring. I do not have any downlighter or anything else that will be awkward ). Just doing what you did here - partial loft only.
Good luck buddy, take your time, pay attention to anything that might be in your way. Make a note of the cables and make sure your watch your footing, you don’t want to end up the the room below 👍🏻
Wish you were available in Belfast, hope i find someone as good as you to do my work. Thanks for taking the time to make the video and sharing it
Thank you for your kind comment 👍🏻
Another useful video from LTW, 👍🏼
Cheers Terry ! Another video coming tomorrow 👍🏻
That's a great video thanks. Love your style of presentation & narration. Informative, simple to follow steps & the speeded up video an absolute bonus.
Nice one buddy ! Thanks very much for the comment ! Really appreciate it 👍🏻
… I’m thinking of following your system for a portion of my loft for light storage for cases and some books and a few kids toys … the sides would be 2.2 metre x 3.0 metre … using kiln dried treated wood for the 3 by 2. I’ve calculated the whole structure would weigh about 45kg plus the weight of the chip boards to cover it … house built in 1980 … I’m concerned that the frame adds a fair amount of extra weight to be supported by the joists and just wanted your opinion … obviously just an opinion since you couldn’t give any detailed advice not having seen the job … great video btw👍
I really enjoyed that!
Thank for you kind words buddy ! 👍🏻
Very good video. Thank you for the tutorial.
Thank you Wilson, your never alone
I am about to do my loft. I don't have a nail gun so it will be screwed. Will the glue still be necessary? Shouldn't there be a gap between the top of the insulation and the underside of the boards for air-flow?
Cheers for that! Only found all the fancy expensive loft leg videos while thinking, cant I just use timber? Really helpful!
Thank you very much for your kind comment !
I hate fibreglass insulation good tip about the shower
Horrible stuff isn’t it ! Really not fun to work with 👍🏻
yeah is a good tip never thought about washing down with cold first got this job to do and I really suffer from the fiberglass
@@bloggs692413 mate deffo use the cold water tip first ! Helps loads ! Horrible stuff isn’t it ! I hope I do t get another one of them for a while.
@@bloggs692413 j
Super helpful video! Everything here in the US is new builds which is nothing like working with an upgrade in an older house
Thank you very much 🍻
Nice efficient job there mate. I'm doing exactly the same setup with the same materials minus the handy nail gun I'm afraid. The perks of being a pro. Never mind I'll manage.
Screws for the win mate, they can be removed which is a bonus !
i was going to do mine like this basically build a 2x2 frame then loftboard, but i thought you had to raise it up on legs so it's not pushing the insulation down causing the ceiling to bulge etc, mine looks exactly as you had here 👍
If you don't care about global warming or your heating bill, by all mens build it like this. If you squash the insulation it reduces it's effectiveness.
If you store too much weight on the boards, the ceiling below will deflect and possibly crack at plasterboard joints, because the ceiling joists weren't designed for the loading that floor joists can take.
And by gluing and nailing the boards down rather than screwing without glue, that will make any future rewiring of lights much more difficult and expensive.
@@robertsmart7484 true, but mine should be fine with 2x2 as it has flattened & loft board is lightweight material ?
@@robertsmart7484Global warm-what?
Let me guess: you still believe in Santa Claus too
I'd love to be there one day in the future when the electrician discovers all those boards are glued down 🤣
The electrician wouldn’t try and unscrew it anyway, he would just wack it with a hammer to make a hole 😂
@@LTWCarpentry Oh yeh, no big issues then😆
Great tips!
Thank you
@@LTWCarpentry The cold wash tip at the end might save me a lot of scratching haha - thanks for the vid!
That nail gun is cool af
It’s a good gun I won’t lie !
I thought I saw that tripod the other day. Don’t envy you that job but as you say they can’t always be nice, turned out to be a great space 👍🏻
Yes mate ! You probably did see it when I was messaging you ! Yeah mate much better use of the space now ! The customers can actually get up there !
Good video, thanks for sharing 👍🏻
No prob 👍🏻 thank you for your comment ! I really appreciate it 👍🏻
Great video thanks!
Your welcome ! Thanks for your comment !
Hi, thanks for the video. Do you not put the insulation back?
Your welcome, yes I put the insulation back
Would you recommend doing this to a new build house if i was going to floor the loft?
Spot on job that like 👍
Cheers buddy 👍🏻
Are you in kent? 😂 Need the same done lol
lol, give me a message on Instagram and we can have a chat mate
I can see that your insulation isn't at 270mm..... I need to do this same job in my house and what you have done here is ideal for what I need. However, Does it really matter if my insulation Isn't at 270mm, in terms of a regs point of view? If I fit flooring on top of 270mm insulation I won't have much headroom left in the loft, rendering the whole process useless for my needs. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Great video, thanks.
You could try adding Superfoil to the rafters and using less insulation between joists, this will create a "warm loft".
You could use PIR board it reduces 270 down to about 150mm as PIR is a better insulator.
How much did that job cost
What size are timber to make the frame please
These where 3x2s
What size timbers did you use? And are they treated?
I used 3x2 and no not treated mate
Nice video mate but I was just wondering if using glue is really necessary because
surely a couple of nails here & there would be sufficient on what is just a floating floor
You could get away with just screwing but I wouldn’t recommend just a few screws I would say atleast 3 screws at each joist as this will add strength to the structure, I would always suggest using glue as this is belt and braces.
Thank you for this. I am wondering (in case I missed you saying) why you created a base on top of the joists. Is it to raise it up from the joists to leave a gap between the insulation?
I have insulation (largely deteriorated) by if I already have the roof spray insulated between the roof rafters, couldn’t I just lay floor boards on rafters? If so, does it still matter if the insulation touches the floor nboards or should I remove enough to leave a ‘moisture’ space? Thank you.
Top video, going to do mine similar. What size is the boarding joists you are using please and how do you know where to fix that first centre board so the off cuts fit so perfectly each end. Sorry I’m terrible at measuring!
How much would a handyman charge to do this job on average?
What size of timber did you use for the framework?
3x2 buddy
Great video, it’s a job far beyond my capabilities but I wanted to see what was involved. I’ve recently moved into a new flat and I’m looking to have a bit of my loft boarded for some extra storage storage, but I’ve been told I can’t because the void forms the building structure. It’s a new build and I was counting on more surface space to store some relatively small boxes. The heaviest would be (roughly) a 40 x 60cm box of cookery books. Does anyone have any suggestions? The previous owner has boarded a small section and he suggested I went for an option that can be easily removed. Any help or advice greatly received.
New subscriber. Hopefully I’ll find a video within my skill set - I always learn a lot. Thanks for taking the time to make this.
Seasons greetings to you and your family
And to you and yours buddy ! 👍🏻
Many thanks for a great video. It was very clear, concise and easy to follow. Would it be reasonable to say that the T&G chipboard you used for the floor also contributes to the insulation in the attic? So the floored area is now better insulated than before due to the effect of the chipboard added to that of the fibreglass? Thanks again.
Thank you very much for your comment, yes in theory what your saying makes sense and I am inclined to agree with you although I couldn’t say for sure. Thanks again for your comment 👍🏻
Chipboard is nowhere near as good an insulator as fibreglass. Yes there is a small amount of insulation from the chipboard, but if you sqash say 150mm of fibreglass down to 75mm that reduces it's insulation value down to slightly less than that of 75mm thich fibreglass.
So overall here, this loft now is less well insulated. Good job there isn't an energy crisis.
@@robertsmart7484There isn't an energy crisis: just a fabricated one.
How much would it cost for materials for a job like this?
I think it was only £250 from memory
Great video, did you have an issue with uneven joists in the loft floor?
No fortunately this was relatively flat, if it was uneven I would either notch my timbers (not the existing ones) or shim and pack as required
Hi mate, I have a newish build, with roof trusses that span from front to back of house. Would I be able to build something like this on top? Thanks
He doesn't bother answering any questions. He will only give his attention to flattery
Hey amazing video helped a lot. How would you make sure that frame is level when the joists aren't? Thank you.
I wouldn’t worry to much about level as it’s not a “floor” as such, I would however aim for reasonably flat as you will find it hard to lay the tongue and groove board otherwise, you can shoot for level but I wouldn’t stress to much about it.
Would you recommend using timber for support rather than plastic raising legs?
It really mate both options are good, just I prefer to do it this was as being a carpenter I gravitate towards timber.
Who likes working in a loft?
I bet there will be a fair few mate 😂😂
Don't do it in August unless at night, or you're looking to shed a stone or two!
Nooice!
Cheers
This is great! Daft question, why no noggins in between the long pieces?
Thank you very much, really is this frame wasn’t really for strength, just to allow for more insulation.
Would you be too concerned about the added weight on the old timbers? Was going to do something similar but was going to try anchor into the walls to spread load or would you not worry. Say worry I mean more cracks in the plastered ceiling 😂😂🤦♂️
I mean it all depends on what you going to be strong up there, the additional timbers I put in will help to spread the weight, where possible I would try to utilise the internal walls that are underneath where your putting the stuff your storing. Also I would try and space the stuff out rather then putting all in one big pile in the middle. To be honest I have never had any problems when doing this for customers. If you are worried about the timbers in your roof you could always laminate these (glue and bolt extra timbers to the side of them) to give them extra strength. Hope this makes sense and helps buddy.
@@LTWCarpentry Priceless info
Hello mate, could you do this with Spax screws instead of a nail gun?
Ohh yes mate, to be honest if this was a floor that had a lot of traffic I.e a bedroom or something I would screw it anyway just incase it squeaks at all. Cheers for the comment 👍🏻
Great job !!! well done
Cheers buddy ! 👍🏻
Fantastic job ,how much do you charge ?
Thank you for your comment but I’m affraid i don’t discuss money on my channel
Loft boarding novice here. Your video was really good, very concise.
I toyed with the idea of raising the floor a bit but have you done it purely to fit the insulation underneath that was already there or is there an issue fixing the boards directly to joists?
My joists are 600mm apart so presumably you did it at 400mm for strength?
My main concern is the strength of my roof. The frames are 100mm x 35mm at 600mm spacings.
The frame on too was for added support and also not to squash the insulation as building regulations state it has to be minimum of 270 mm thick and if insulation is flattened it does not work efficiently and also can put pressure on the bedroom ceiling causing cracks and damage
How much is a job like that?
I’m sorry but I don’t discuss money in my channel.
How much would something like that cost?
I’m really sorry but I don’t discuss costings on here, I dont feel it’s fair in my customers
Hi. What sizes (length) were the nails in the gun?
I used 60mm nails buddy
@@LTWCarpentry thanks. That size big enough to attach the “frame” to the original joists?
@@alex1975uk sorry mate I used 90mm for that and 60s to hold down the boards
What size beams did you use
I used 3x2 buddy
@@LTWCarpentry thank you.
Are you in the UK? Was this enough space for the insulation?
@@ryanbamforth1290 no problem
Plumbers and sparks will be cursing you in years to come when they have to tear up a glued floor.
Where are you based?
Chelmsford essex buddy
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
why did you put clue on, what happens if you have to take the boards up for something
It’s common practice to glue boards down, stops them squeaking, if the boards have to be removed which is very unlikely, they can cut the section out then re glue it back in.
Doesnt it have too be 270mm depth it doesn't 270
Great work 👍 could you have attached the boards straight onto the joist? Thinking of a similar space for the same purpose.
Thank you very much, yes you can the only reason for lifting the flooring off is to get more insulation in there. As the insulation was already in place I didn’t want to remove it.
Thanks for the advice and quick response ✌
@@k.Newbbie your more then welcome buddy
No you can't government guidelines say you need at least 270mm insulation. So you can't attach straight too the joists
@@djturner1992 no they are guidelines not regulations.
Wicked video babe!!!! Xxxx
Thank you babes xxxx
Looks like you added unsupported weight' to a framework that was only supposed to hold' plaster boards insulation and light fittings? Nice job
Thank very much
That’s a criticism I think
@@tundeuk yeah I know mate but I really don’t want to have arguments with people on the internet, really not worth it you know.
@@LTWCarpentry Great way to think
People are charging me stupid prices to board my loft and as a woman... me and my 33 year old will do it after watching yours and other videos 🇬🇧👍🏾
***son
Even after a year, your fingers might be still itchy
Whoever boarded my loft (before I bought the house) cut notches in the boards and then put them underneath all the wiring 🤦♂