How to board a loft above the insulation
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
- Watch this easy DIY guide on how to fit loft boards, giving you a strong storage platform above even thick insulation in your loft or attic. Find out more information on www.loftzone.co.uk. Or, to find an approved installer near you, look at www.nationwideloftstorage.co.uk
NOTE: Please be aware that LoftZone provides screws with every kit that is sold. You will only need to buy screws should you purchase items individually.
I love these demo lofts and attic spaces...so clear...not a tangled mess of wires in place 😂
Although not cheap, with many old and ill informed comments below, I’d like to add that it’s not a perfect system but I am very pleased with the end results I have achieved. It’s also quite simple to install.
Thank you very much for the feedback and we are glad that you are enjoying your new raised loft floor!
Can you please tell me how this differs from just buying loft legs from my local DIY store and screwing the boards to them. Thanks.
That's described in the comparison table at the bottom of this page: www.loftzone.co.uk/storefloor/
"use a low torque setting" - sets power tool to Drill mode :)
Well done
Its easier to do a multifoil solution. You can achieve good R value with two layers of YBS Super Quilt using the foil and cheap CLS studwork timber. Plus you will only lose minimal height and its a very stable floor for storage.
Technically, that is incorrect. The foil will deliver good R-values but the timber will counteract that, by acting as a cold bridge through the insulation. This is why new build houses can't use timber to raise platforms without adding extra insulation elsewhere in the building. Our product does not act as a cold bridge. Also, the foil is not breathable (vapour permeable) and so you will need to add a ventilation strategy to the living spaces of the buildings, otherwise you will end up with mould in the home. These are the reasons why we don't sell these products on our website.
Hello . Just watched the video carefully , as i want to do this to my loft too . I still have to enlarge the hatch first , but i will have to inform myself better about how safe it is to cut one of the joists to enlarge it . Anyway , this seems to be a proper system compared to what wickies and b and q are selling , and it seems to be at almost same price . (both a bit over what i was expecting lol )
By "enlarge" I assume you mean you are trying to install a rectangular hatch which typically have a built in ladder? In either case NEVER CUT THE JOIST. Your hatch needs to be orientated to run in the same direction as the joist so that it fits between the joist. You then secure two noggins (horizontal piece of timber) between the two joists so your hatch can be secured to it on both shorter sides.
Cutting a roof joist - nothing can go wrong - LOL
11 inches extra height in a standard loft ? does not leave much head room ....
Yes, that's the buildings regulations minimum depth of loft insulation these days. Many houses have more. What the LoftZone product does is that it provides a deck above it, so the space can be used for something else and not just insulation.
Best use insulation boards in the rafters and only use a slither of insulation under the boards which should be screwed down without the use of the tri supports .
@@hardythingh4510 but that makes it a warm loft, not a cold one. You will then also have to block up the vents (e.g. in the eaves) and bring in a new ventilation system, eg. MVHR.
No if you want to maintain the new regulation thickness of insulation.
hi it's Andrew again. In the video it was mentioned to leave a few millimetre gap between tri-support and party wall. How close accurately can i get to party wall while retaining the necessary air flow for insulation please?In other words how close can the planks be please?
Hello Andrew. Probably most of the ventilation will be from eave to eave, not from the party wall side. The only exception to that would be if you have ridge vents. But nonetheless, it's mainly the sides where the eaves are that you need to keep free from obstructions to airflow.
ok thanks
Since when was a 4x40mm screw the same as a 8"x1.5"...? 0:14
No, 8 is not the length in inches, it's the gauge. Take a look at this website for an explanation of the difference: www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/screwsize.htm
That may be the case but he clearly says 8 inches by 1.5 inches, even the subtitles says so...
Even I was wondering about how the mm to inch conversion can go so wrong.
correct ,he does say 8 inches, if you mean the gauge then say the gauge
That wass very good for storage but what I am looking for is living space. Three bedrooms, toilet and bath
Thanks Victoria. Yes, LoftZone StoreFloor is only designed for loft storage and occasional access. It sounds like you are after a loft conversion. Lots of companies offer this (we don't), but expect to pay tens of thousands of pounds! Good luck :)
Why do you need to fit two levels of cross joists? is it purely to make room for the insulation? All videos I've seen add this extra height when boarding lofts but with no explanantion. My loft ceiling is very low as it's an old cottage - I need as much height as I can get in there so making the floor level 8 inches higher is not great for me! Any advice?
Yes that's right. Building codes nowadays define insulation that is much taller than the joists. So most people therefore lose all use of the attic space, since you can't squash the insulation as this halves its effectiveness. The LoftZone product in this video simply gives you a deck above the insulation, so the space can be used again.
Dave Raval Who would know if you did not comply with this rule?
Well it depends if you ever do anything that is notifiable to a building control inspector. If you don't, no one would. But your heating bill would be higher because of having less insulation of course!
XPS insulation board would be half the thickness but a lot more £££££
@@herobo123456 The 'building code' applies to new builds (and conversions, renovations etc) - there's no obligation to upgrade loft insulation to this extent in an existing building, although it might be desirable where practicable.
Appears to wobble after installation - do you recommend bracing the floor against the structure to prevent this movement (especially a concern since you chose to make the supports out of plastic)?
Hi there +dakotamax2
Happy to say that the deck does not wobble once it's all fitted. The boards provide lateral resistance and prevent any wobble. The supports and Cross-Beams provide stability in the other two directions too, making it firm in all three dimensions. The deck was independently tested and shown to be far stronger than required by building codes, which is why 1000s of people have installed them and our average rating across all platforms is usually around 4.9 out of 5 stars.
As for the plastic, that's necessary to comply with building codes. If we used wood or metal for the supports, these would transfer heat from the room below into the loft (this mechanism of heat loss is called a "cold bridge") and hence this would be against building codes for new houses in the UK. Using wood to build a raised platform is not a good idea, as the wood simply allows the heat to leak through the insulation.
If you've got any more questions or need some more advice, drop us an email on sales@loftzone.co.uk. Thanks.
+LoftZone Thanks for the response!
The wobble I am referring to can be seen as the technician applies lateral force perpendicular to the brackets at (th-cam.com/video/Swgp4NtNeJo/w-d-xo.htmlm16s).
I suppose this improves as more fasteners are installed from the deck to the riser/braces, but it will depend on the ability of the fasteners to resist angular deflection. I like the product, but for a floating deck that does not contact a side wall, it would be my preference to install a level/horizontal brace at the lateral side of the loft-deck to a roof rafter to eliminate any movement.
+dakotamax2 and thanks for the exact link!
The section of video you refer to is before the boards are screwed to the Cross-Beams. The installer is pushing the boards into position. Once they're screwed down, they don't wobble.
The point you make is valid, in general, though. Fair enough that many floating decks can wobble. However, so long as the boards are screwed in, you'll find that it's really not a problem; there are several screws per part and per board and they provide the strength needed. Even better if you use tongue-and-groove boards. But if you wish, you can of course use some wood to provide lateral restraint.
By the way, don't take our word for it, try it for yourself! If you email us, we can send you a 2.4m x 2.4m (8ft, x 8ft,) deck and I'm sure we can do you a good deal.
All the best, LoftZone
+LoftZone Still interested, thanks for the response(s)!
@@LoftZone surely the timber truss itself is a cold bridge as it is under the insulation and also around the roof , conected all together . Is this not correct? What building code in particular are you referring to? Also would the weight rating not bepend on the joists themselfs as opposed to any systems used to rise the boarding ? . I ask as im intrested and may use loftzone in my loft . Seem to be alot of over engineered and under explained products to do this . I want to choose the right one . Thank you
I better get the old house electrical re-wiring done first, I would say.
i saw the DIY doctor review and in that was recommended 8 mm bit for sinking into the boards themselves . My question is is it necessary to use an 8mm bit
have come to realise that an 8mm drill bit IS necessary when drilling the tri -supports. If you don't you could risk not getting the type 8 screws all the way in and in some cases like myself snap the screw when trying to get the screw flush with the tri-support. Drill first with 8 mil , then drill in the screws, my personal recommendation for difficult joists are silver not bronze type 8 screws which seem to take more stress when screwing in
Can i use these to install a laminate flooring and make a bedroom in my attic?
No, this was designed for a loft storage area. You will need to strengthen your joists if you want to turn your attic into a bedroom.
@@nationwideloftstorage7151 how can i strengthen my joists
@@mohammadabdullahkhan360 you will need to hire a loft conversion company. It's a job that will cost tens of thousands of £ and cause a lot of disruption, but will add to the value of your property. Alternatively if you only want a storage space, then you can find your nearest installer on www.loftzone.co.uk, this will cost hundreds or a few thousands of £ only.
Ha,ha, I'd like to see that work in my loft, not all lofts are perfect, mine is old and way out of square. Why do you need those support / stilts, why can't the boards just be fitted to the ceiling joists?
Hello MrUniman. The good news is that the LoftZone StoreFloor product has been specially designed for non-perfect lofts, as its adjustable Cross-Beams and the ability to span over problem joists mean that there is no easier solution for such lofts. That's why we have thousands of customers in the UK alone already.
It's needed because modern building regulations dictate insulation that is typically at least triple the height of your joists. You can't squash the insulation as that stops it working. So LoftZone allows you to have a raised deck above the insulation, so you save on heating bills (and meet buildings regulations) whilst still having a safe and usable space in your loft.
There is plenty more information on www.loftzone.com. I hope this helps answer your question!
Thanks to TV presenter @brynlucas for showing us how it's done!
I have installed the supports and metal beam but when I try to screw the panels through the metal it keeps lifting the boards up and does not screw into the metal. I have used loft panel boards from bnq which are 15mm thick. Could this be the reason why they are not screwing into the metal? Any help or advice would be great!!
Are you using an electric screwdriver? Try putting your foot on the board as you screw in. Btw, loft boards are usually at least 18mm thick. Are you sure that the boards you bought are strong enough. We only use 15mm boards for shelving.
They give no extra strength to the roof ok for light storage
Hello Gemini Roofing, and thanks for your comment. Yes, we always advise using LoftZone to only create storage or safe access platforms, and to not exceed 25kg/m2 for storage unless you know your loft is strong enough for more. However it's worth noting that the LoftZone parts do indeed strengthen the joists in the roof to some degree - they act like a lattice beam. In that respect, their strengthening qualities are similar to cross-bracing with extra timber, except that it's much better than using timber as wood is heavy and acts as a cold bridge through the insulation, affecting the U-value of the roof. Lots of roofers buy our product and sell it as a value-added extra to their customers. If you're interested, please get in touch via the contact details on our website. 25,000 buildings in the UK with LoftZone can't be wrong!
Thanks for your reply, but I'm not shore you are correct when saying they strengthen Just as if you counter baton, as you have the strength of a 4x2 screwed to evert joist that ties the roof together , I think this would be a great product and more weight Bering if you combined them both together. but as you say it is selling so great I hope your company is a success. Ill have a look at your website and if it is cost effective ill give it a try out. I also think a washer to give the screw a better fixing
Thanks again Richard. By the way, we do have trade prices (not shown on the website, but available if you call us up to order and have deliveries sent to your business address). All the best!
I'm just trying to figure out how sonething designed to hold plasterboard can all of a sudden support a load! Would love to know the allowable load per sqm for this set up
The allowable load in each loft depends on the building. However British Standards mandate a minimum loft floor strength of 25kg/m2 for all new build houses, for storage or other long-term purposes, in addition to a higher limit for transient loads, e.g. someone walking around. Many houses are, of course, able to take even more load than that. LoftZone has been tested to hold 500kg/m2 in accelerated ageing long-term tests. I hope this helps answer your question :)
@@LoftZone yeah thay does so as long as it was built after those specs were introduced should be fine? Nice
@@vkturbo7676 Well it varies by building of course, but many older houses are actually stronger than new ones. Modern truss roofs are often much weaker than more traditional cut roof designs, for example. You just have to be sensible in loading your deck with your possessions, and we provide guidance that you shouldn't exceed 25kg/m2 unless you know that your roof is stronger.
4:50 - Is the gentleman standing on the insulation or is he on a board that can't be seen?
We don't recommend you stand on the insulation, as that squashes it. In this case, the installer would have been standing on a board, like he did on 1:18.
Thanks.
A very expensive system
OSB board and cross beam timbers is cheaper, quicker and more solid.
On the contrary! The LoftZone StoreFloor system was designed as a superior alternative to using wood. Its advantages include being lighter, being easier to install as it can bridge over obstructions, services and uneven joists, it also does not conduct heat through the insulation like timber does, and it also allows for a great depth of insulation that can be achieved with one row of timbers. That's why only the LoftZone StoreFloor system has the necessary BBA certificate for new builds. And also why you can't use the method you suggest on new builds without increasing the insulation elsewhere in the house to make up for the heat lost in your method.
Finally, don't use OSB boards, there are much better boards on the market. Indeed, at the time of writing, LoftZone has the UK's largest range of quality loft board types on our website :)
Can this product be purchased in Ireland?
Thanks for your inquiry! No, but it can be purchased online from www.loftzone.co.uk and we will express ship it by UPS to Ireland.
Why can’t you just put down sheets of ply straight on top of the joists ?
Because that doesn't allow for enough insulation to meet modern building standards or codes, which have been set to save energy. These days you need at least 270mm of attic insulation (if you use mineral wool) and most joists are only 75 or 100mm tall. The LoftZone product goes above the insulation, giving you both a deck and the correct amount of insulation.
Lol
My loft is 1900mm high and I can just about stand in it. If I was to use this method of raising my floor I wouldn't be able to stand anymore. It looks like a huge waste of height
+MAADMO Well it's designed to go above the insulation, which by law has to be a certain height (typically 270mm in the UK, 11" or so in the USA, etc). So it's not wasting height as you've already lost that through the insulation. Instead it's bringing back space you otherwise couldn't use. That's the point of it.
Again you say law but what law?
Building Regulations in England and Wales, Part L. In Scotland, the requirement is for more.
Thats not Law
It is if you undertake any notifiable work on your building. The council will certainly enforce Building Regs!
They just dont look stable and made of plastic :(
Actually the LoftZone deck has been independently tested and is much stronger than the loft joists which it is screwed into. You can see our BBA certificate showing this on our website, www.loftzone.co.uk. The reason for using recycled engineering-grade plastics is that wooden supports act as a 'cold-bridge' and allow heat to escape through your loft. The Buildings Research Establishment has however verified that our supports do not act as a cold bridge in this way.
what a waste of good loft space
On the contrary, the flooring is designed to go above the insulation (at buildings regulations required depths) and this enables the space to be used, rather than simply be full of insulation.
25kg per square meter!? So its either weak as hell or you are avoiding any liabilities on a rediculus scale
Hello Marc and thank you for your comment. StoreFloor decks have been independently tested and, in accelerated lifetime ageing tests, in extremes of temperature, the decks survived loads in excess of 500kg/m2. This makes the deck stronger than the minimum loading requirements for operating theatres, banking halls, rooms with mainframe computers and factories, to take just a few examples. That's also why, when we received our BBA certificate permitting the use of the product in brand new houses, it was stated that the LoftZone product was expected to last the lifetime of the house. However, the LoftZone deck is screwed on to the joists of your existing property. We don't know how strong these are - every house is different. The 25kg/m2 figure is the British Standard continuous loading figure for new house loft floors, using truss roofs. (It's 90kg for temporary point loads, which could for example be viewed as someone weighing 180kg and walking around on 2 legs). Many houses are stronger than that, of course, but we recommend that you keep to 25kg/m2 unless you know that your loft is stronger than that. If you have any other questions, please give us a call via the contact details on our website, www.loftzone.co.uk. Thanks!
25kg per square metre = 625kg per metre squared. It's saying 25kg for each 10cmx10cm area.
@@Hedghog6666 That's not right. 10cm x 10cm (0.1m x 0.1m) is only 0.01 metres squared. 1 square metre (1m x 1m) has an area of 1 metres squared.
Everyone of these things I see ALL use particle board every time. Why no plywood? Because these things are a fucking gimmick, for storing a chiasmas tree, or a box of scarfs and gloves.
You can indeed use ply, or OSB. Most people choose chipboard as it's cheaper. We discuss the options on our blog at loftzone.co.uk/blog/which-boards
I wouldn't use this slapdash if you paid me.
It's typical pen pushers using stuff like this to clarify why they're paid and in a job.
if you're boarding your loft you *can* board on existing joist *for storage purposes* without needing to comply with building regulations.
If you was going to comply with building regulations to sign off new work e.g. conversion you'd not be using chipboard T&G whether glued or not. You'd use PTG if you're going to make it *Official* or *Comply* .
The planning regulations are only for new builds or conversions and if you was going to do either you'd use better materials that are more cost effective over said period.
If you're like me and you're simply boarding the loft out for storage and your joist are ok then you don't need this product.
(The smart move I made was I used double foil backed insulation board, All upstairs rooms I have used foil backed plasterboard and I also used double foil backed insulation board in between the rafters. I sealed each joint with foil tape which I assumed would be cheap but the amount you use is crazy.)
If you *just* want to strengthen up your joist use actual structural timber 2x4” sitting horizontal to your vertical joist (Width side buttered to existing joist also always have packers in case) pilot drill, countersink and screw.
Similar method above instead sitting the new joist parallel using glue and 6inch screws will raise the deck.
If you was planning to raise your flooring to comply with regulations use the Adjacent walls for the support required.
I'm a Electrician/Data Cabling Engineer by trade.
My father who is as old as Noah is a Carpenter by trade and said "This is one of them bodge jobs."
I mean he even criticises me with measurements because he will only use Imperial, So he will say "Give me a cut of 43 in the old money." haha
Dear Mr Daniels, thank you for your comment. However you miss the point of the product, which is that loft insulation these days is much taller than joist height. If you board on to the joists as you suggest, you either have to remove all the insulation above it, or you squash the insulation down, which halves its effectiveness. Most people like the benefit that loft insulation brings and that’s the reason why tens of thousands of people have bought LoftZone to allow them to have a storage deck that doesn’t compromise on the insulation. It’s also why we have won awards from the Ideal Home Show, Citizen Advice Bureau etc. For a full list, see here: www.loftzone.co.uk/reviews.html
LoftZone I think you missed the point of the reason I used Foil board insulation which reflects heat and retains it in the house with sealing the joints (the gap) between insulation board to joist with foil tape. This has been statistically proven to be more cost effective and energy efficient compared to the insulation used in video above.
Similar to the use of it in cavity walls on high end builds.
Also all I can gather from the product and service being sold is a cheap/quick fix that bears extra weight load on existing joist structure which is a recipe for disaster.
*Example*
It’s like saying “The support wall diameter is insignificant for sufficient purpose but we can make the wall taller and thicker.”
It is possible to use different methods of insulating a loft, yes. We review the pluses and minuses of the type of insulation you talk about in our handy table here: www.loftzone.co.uk/compare.html. However most rigid insulation only has a lambda (thermal resistivity) value of 0.22W/mK which means that in order to meet the minimum Buildings Regulations insulation for a loft these days, you’ll have to have boards that are thicker than the height of your joists anyway. That’s one of the reasons why the fluffy mineral wool insulation is so much more popular. Our video is about how to board above mineral wool insulation, which is what the vast majority of homes have. If you prefer a different insulation method, that’s up to you.
LoftZone Did you use the R-Value to work out the variation of size?
50mm of Kingspan is equivalent to that of 150mm of (Earthwool) and Rockwool which is in the region of (.044) .035 and if my memory serves me correctly building regulations is a minimum of 270mm or equivalent and most houses built before this regulation passed typically have joist sizes of 2x4”.
Also wool isn’t more popular especially not on a building site, I’ll tell you that for free.
The link you provided is all about you selling a product & service without detailed information of the reason to choose said product and service.
Plus to add the insulation that I suggest has a vapour barrier and prevents moisture or damp.
LoftZone Also are you a NIA member? Because even as an official NIA you should know the basic calculations. E.g. The lower the number equals a superior insulation material. My Father is a NIA member and it even suggests that for ‘mineral wool’ *only* the recommendation is 270mm and that the recommendation differs depending on material used.
What a waste of space, great way to reduce the hight in the loft 🙈😃
The LoftZone StoreFloor product is designed to go in lofts where there is already up to 350mm of insulation, which you will find in all new build houses and many older houses where the insulation has been retrofitted to the level now required by building regulations in the UK (typically around 300mm thick). So it actually increases space, by giving you a storage deck plus the full depth of insulation.
I’d think it wise to research a subject, before offering an ignorant comment.
Houses are extremely over insulated theses days, use supper foil save space and money,
It’s not about homes being over insulated (if there is ever such a thing) it’s about being able to install flooring without effecting the original to regulations new build house.
Looks shit. Id never use this stuff or finish a job to that poor standard
Not quite sure where that came from! It's the highest quality product on the market and the only one to have official industry (BBA) approval, making it suitable for new houses as well as old. It's been fitted in tens of thousands of lofts in the UK, plus many abroad too. Ratings from customers across all platforms are nearly 5 stars (e.g. Amazon) and 100% 5-stars (e.g. Facebook). Here's the BBA certificate: www.bbacerts.co.uk/CertificateFiles/52/5269PS1i1.pdf. Why don't you give it a go and see for yourself?
Yeah, definitely use some oak beams and probably apply lamé to everything in my loft storage. I don't think they're suggesting it goes in 25 beautiful homes...