Low Melt Desoldering Test CHIPQUIK vs Normal Leaded Solder Chip Quik
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ย. 2023
- Sometimes viewers ask my why I don't use Chip Quik low melting point solder when desoldering. Well it's not that I don't have some Chip Quik, it's mostly because 63:37 Leaded solder works pretty good for me. But I never did a comparison - so here it is. Desoldering with ChipQuik vs desoldering with leaded solder. Which is better? Let's find out.
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Thank you
Richard
One thing with low melt solder is you have to remove all of it before using leaded solder with a replacement component.
My personal cheap-skate work-around strategic plan to avoid buying ChipQuick has always been to plan on using solder paste, which has a lower melting point and which I do have in stock. I have yet to rework an expensive temperature sensitive (computer/MCU) type component that I could not just sweep off with a large blob of leaded solder. But, I get it that QuickChip is the right tool for the right job, for its intended use. Cheers.
Low melt likes the lower temperature. I turn the iron down to 280 - 200 depending on the board thickness and mass.
You can use Rose or Woods alloy , you don't need to use a proprietary brand, like buying a Versace T-Shirt LOL. Also you can usually just use a soldering iron, no hot air required.
Low melt is a great tool, the more you use it the better your technique, always watch your videos 👍
Thanks Richard, I’m a repair hobbyist and find your videos super helpful, this was something I wondered….. I personally use low melt solder but found it important to remove traces of low melt thoroughly before re soldering, usually by tinning with leaded and cleaning again with braid.
I just use low melt solder paste if needed. 60/40 usually works just fine.
Not much difference using it this way then, but the advantage of low melt is you could have easily removed the ram chip without hot air - which would have been very difficult with 63:37...handy for places where you can't use hot air.
That's my opinion. It's good for removing parts like RAM chips you may want to reuse, but for things like HDMI connectors where your are assumedly trying to prevent damage to the PCB it does not help at all due to the fact you need to get enough heat into the metal work of the connector itself before you can unsolder it.
Protecting plastics - surrounding and inside connectors - is the only reason I can see for using LowMelt
Totally agree. Low melt isn't for general desoldering (eg those RAM chips) where you can hit them with full hot air. In many circumstances with low melt you hit the pins with an iron and a *small* amount of low melt and they will all stay molten long enough to remove the component without using air (or much air) and melting plastic. TBH you should be able to remove that USB with low melt and no air and no component melting ...
@@andygardiner6526 100% agreed. This is what I wanted to show and why I don't generally use Chipquik. But I freely admit during the making of this video I was open minded and was a little surprised to see the occasions where I will use it going forwards, so it is still well worth having IMHO
You can buy a brick of bismuth and make as much of low melt solder as you want :)
Love to watch a master at work! Dont do a lot of component repair (Industrial instrument tech here), so my board skills needed to see this! Am going to get the Amtech paste and a hot air unit. Thank you, Cheers from the States!
Thanks for posting. I’m very curious about the process / technique as I’ve never attempted surface-mount repair.
Richard on top of everything,I like your soldering iron
im like you i use leaded for 99.9% of jobs but for the odd time when needed i have some stuff it comes in a ingot off ebay its about a fiver a go it works just like chipquik at a fraction of the price but for the life of me i cannot remember the name of it. should be easy to find on ebay mate and i got mine about 5 years ago and ive 2 3rds left.
I have a bag of 'Rose's Metal' which is a bismuth/lead/tin mix in tiny ingots like you mention. Very cost effective and it works extremely well.
@@justinspiredfallout that sounds like the stuff mate, my memory is like the tide it comes and gos. thanks.
I use the same method as yourself( leaded ) & sometimes use the Mr solderfix method using copper wire as a heatsink works well with multi pin headers without hot air ...........
@Learn Electronics Repair Chipquik alloy doesn't contain any flux, that's why the SMD kit contains a tube of flux. Cut a bit of your usual solder alloy under the microscope : If it's made like a pipe, then it contains flux. It's enough to explain their different ways to flowing. Some alloys contains much more flux than others.
You can also fold Chipquik alloy without breaking it, it just requires to do it slowly ^^
To be honest, I only use chipquik on the most delicate solder points to remove a chip.
I totally agree with you. I'm pretty sure I demonstrated where chipquik excels and where it makes no difference. For sure, removing chips near to things that are not easy to remove but would easily be damaged like RAM slots etc it makes perfect sense to use low melt solder but for HDMI connectors etc which other videos say you really should use it then I don't see the point unless I'm missing something
Heya, good comparison they are some pro's and cons between them but they both work I like to see 1 more thing wen you use the 2 differant fluxes by both solder maybe you see more differance
You missed the point of Quick Chip, run your soldering iron down both sides of the chip 1 or 2 times and slowly reach over after fussing with a few things on your bench and get your tweezers, you will find the the chip will lift off without reheating, it stays melted for a looong time. its the cleaning that takes a long time.
Very nice video ! I think this is the bismuth type of solders you can find them also instead of chip quick from chinese vendors like your mechanic solder they offer bismuth type too as example HBD-366 but still more expensive. They are indeed brittle because of the bismuth but it´s needed to get around 200°C melting point. I don´t know If I would solder with them instead of lead based because the brittleness is not good against mechanical stress. For desoldering maybe but you have to clean it very good after that. By the way how hot do you use your hot air ? I found out that over 400°C you are likely to burn your pcb quite bad.
Il be cutting a lump out of an old video recorder for something to desolder on like you have here. Very good idea.
As for the test.
Well, its good that you've used it here so i never have to..
Don’t completely reject the idea based on this video…it can be extremely helpful in certain situations. He is specifically using it for smd’s in this, but it can be used for any solder joint and probably at better effect for big globs of unleaded solder. They can frequently be extremely difficult to get to liquefy without hearing the bejesus out of them. The chip quick is very helpful to liquefy small to large globs of lead free solder. I think his flux may have gone bad or something. Cuz there no reason why he should be struggling with it. Just saying, don’t dismiss it from this. If used correctly, not that he didn’t necessarily use it correctly, but if used correctly it should work extremely well in the right situations.
@kilgoretrout4461 I agree with you and actually think I demonstrated that. It worked very well on the RAM chips where there was not so much thermal mass. It didn't make any noticeable difference on things like HDMI connectors. I never did dismiss it, I actually recommended it is worth having some in the toolbox and that I will use it in the situations I think it is suited to, like desoldering chips near to things that will melt easily such as RAM slots etc.
The link for the Kaiweets multimeter is discontinued on amazon. I was going to buy my second one but it's not there
I'm about to renew all the affiliate lists. I'm also waiting arrival of the newer Kaiweets KM601S and KM602 to review. Should be within the next month.
Seeing you struggle with it flowing. Could be the expiration date of the flux? Or maybe Chipquik just isn't that great at all.
At my job I do DC jacks only with low melt solder.
The pro of low melt solder is that you can liquify all joints simultaniously so you don't need a hot air gun.
th-cam.com/video/g4tsUQ-TFYA/w-d-xo.html
Yes, I was confused at the combination of low melt and a hot air gun. If you can get away with the gun then you probably don’t need the low melt. Plastic connectors on one side of a board with components on the rear preventing heating from below is the perfect time to breakout the low melt ... and with the iron down to the lowest possible temperature. 🤞
You suggested that you had applied more of the leaded solder than the chipquik. In fact, although it may have felt that way, if you look back at the video you will find that you used quite a bit less leaded solder, probably because the chipquik melted so quickly. I was thinking to myself "stop messing about, get some on there". The point being that the greater the ratio of leaded to non-leaded the lower the melting point.
For whatever reason the chipquik is very difficult to apply, you saw in the video with the RAM chip it applied more than I wanted and with the connectors it clumped up and refused to flow even though I used the supplied flux with it. If I did manage to add more chipquik than leaded solder this should have improved it's performance as the resulting allow would have a lower melting point but the results did not reflect this.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Ah, sorry, I didn't phrase it very well, I meant I thought you should have used more leaded solder, you seemed a little hesitant when adding it.
BTW, have you ever considered using 50/50 or even 40/60 to make the mixture of leaded and unleaded nearer 60/40?
Chipquick has it's uses, but the real star is actually the paste FLUX! It makes a huge difference in not only how heat is conducted, but also (obviously) how well solder flows. Of course, there are techs on youtube that will mess up boards to the absolute bitter end rather than TRYING a good paste flux. It's a game changer, regardless of what you solder/desolder with. 👍
When I found (Amtech) flux, it changed my soldering game to GOD status!! 😁
Thanks for the suggestion, I'm all for game changers so I'll order some and see what happens. I do have solder paste already but I assume you have some recommendations so let's give it a go yeah?
@@LearnElectronicsRepair I'd love to tell you where to get Amtech NC-559-V2-TF, since it's hard NOT to get counterfeit versions of it, but youtube deletes any comments with links. But there is a guy that fixes Macbooks on youtube that may help. Lets see if THIS comment will be censored as well. The flux is worth a try!
😊
I hate very lowtemp solder, time wasted just on cleanup negates any benefits.
Talk about hard to watch. As to your question "Otherwise why are you watching?" it's simple, for the same reason people watch a pileup on the motorway, morbid curiosity
Everyones opinion is welcome here, so what parts did you not like and why?
@@LearnElectronicsRepair The melting point of chip quik is 79-91C ( taken from datasheet) the melting point of plastic ranges from 160C-390C, using low melt solder you should have plenty of headroom to not melt the plastic on the usb port. It's down to bad drills. But having said that I do enjoy your videos even the motorway pileups. you know you shouldn't watch, but you just can't look away.
@@anglo-saxonenglish3565 In Richard's defence the melting point of the resultant alloy will be somewhere between the melting point of the two solders and will depend on proportions in the mix. Although the low melt will go at that temperature it will not mix with the unleaded until that also begins to surface melt (up to 220C) which is why you have to work at it a bit with the iron to start the mixing and get the heat through the joint. The real issue was inexperience (I bet Richard hasn't heard that for lots of years!) and using the hot air at 400+C! If you want to see low-melt used well look up a few of Northridgefix videos as he's very good with it, uses it almost every day but doesn't use hardly any!
@@andygardiner6526 Thanks for telling me, I would never of figured that out on my own. Clearly you either didn't read or are incapable of understanding our conversation. Also if I need you to explain I will be sure to ask. But I wouldn't hold my breath if I were you.
@@anglo-saxonenglish3565 I freely admit I am not familiar with using ChipQuik. Like most things i pick them up, give them a go, and see how it works out. Andygardiner6526 Thanks for the intention but I really don't need defending, I try it, I video it, and that is what happened. Then I live with the results. But seriously it is down to inexperience but this is likely to be any ones experience who tries Quikchip for the first time. But anyway, are you guys basically saying I didn't mix enough Chipquik with the existing leaded solder (using the soldering iron) to make enough difference to the melting point of the resulting alloy? If so I am quite happy to make a follow up with any other method you guys suggest 🙂