I sat on this job because I saw everyone else taking seats out and all that work UNTIL i saw your video you saved me a ton of work I had it out in 10 minutes or less and when I pulled out the vent IT HAD NO RUBBER FLAPS THEY WERE GONE thanks a million, all u out there don’t take it apart work smart watch this mans video he paid it forward and it worked
5 minute fixes like this NEVER, I mean N-E-V-E-R, take me 5 minutes. BUT... this one did! I could not believe it! Thank you, thank you, thank you!! I replaced both sides in less than 10 minutes total... I'd estimate a total of 5-7 minutes to replace both! All my rubber flaps were intact, though hard; I suspect the foam around the vent on my driver side vent was shot, letting in water. This fix could not have been easier!
Thank you for saving me time, I'd like to return the favor and save every one else some time too. Do not buy cheap parts to make major repairs. Cheap aftermarket parts last 6 months to a year and you'll have to do the job again. Also Rockauto sells lots of counterfeit parts and I've had to do repairs a second time due to parts failing. I did an experiment, I purchased a set of timken bearings from Rockauto and Summit racing with the intention of returning one of the sets. The Rock Auto timken wheel bearings say "made in taiwan" the timken bearings that I bought from Summit said "made in USA" I also bought a set of NSK bearings from rockauto labeled "made in taiwan" I bought another from napa and it was labeled "made in Japan" . I called NSK bearing customer support and was informed that none of the NSK Bearings sold in the USA are made in Taiwan and that it was a fake/counterfeit part. Even advance auto parts sells some counterfeit parts also. Beware, spend a little more money and avoid having to redo a repair job. I have had a lot of hardship having to redo repairs and large expense because of this.
Thank you for sharing this method. It took me longer to clean the old gasket off than to do the removal and installation! I'm a small human, so my hands and arms are thin enough to fit in from the side... I didn't even have to get on the ground!
Dude seriously, you are a treasure amongst the sea of people doing this the hard way. Thanks for saving me a decent amount of time I can utilize elsewhere.
But it still baffled me he couldn't spare 30 seconds to wipe it down lol. The new design is different it's basically like a suction cup that flattens out, it's best to wipe it down for a much better seal. When I repaired mine I had a decent amount of build up.
wow, saving this to my favorites, didn't even know my 2006 Silverado had vents. Guess i better make sure I'm not getting water in my cab, never noticed but also never checked. I just have my back seat folded up and a bunch of hunting stuff back there.
Follow up: My underlayment was totally soaked and cab vents were bad, verified with a garden hose. Had to remove seats, carpeting and underlayment to dry it all out and new GM vents will be arriving tomorrow by Fedex. thanks buddy!
Good video saves me a lot of time for my 2004 Chevy Colorado!! just remember to take care of the rust with sand paper and joint sealer and a little paint.. ;) For those who had water in the cabin!!!!!
I wish I found this video a year ago I’ve been trying to find that lake for a long time I thought it is around the back window and the back glass but this just saved me a lot of headache
You don't need the pry bar.... Pry the latch on the bottom of the vent and it will pop right off. I replaced both of mine in less than 5 minutes. Thanks for the video!!!
Thank you for this tip, it works great. To have someone watch from the side of truck. They can let you know if the gasket rolls over before you clip it in.
Having someone watch from the inside would require the inside to be dismantled. That defeats the purpose of this video. The design of the seal on the vent isn't one that will roll over. It's effectively foam thats glued in place.
I just did mine. Tested them with the hose and the new OEM leaked. So i popped them back out and ran a bead of RTV on both. That solved the issue. In my case taking the back seats out was the way to go.
This was definitely the correct procedure. It only took only minutes for removal and installation. I'm not an expert, but in my observation of comparison between the old part which was superseded by this one GM 13596856, I noted the following which, may have contributed to the longevity of the old part lasting 14 years. First my truck has always remained in a warm tropical climate without the harsh winters experienced by most. Although sun here is relentless. Second the old part GM 15196388 was designed with only four rubber flap vent openings. The fifth on the bottom was permanently closed with hard plastic by the manufacturer. Third the rubber flap vents on the old part were slightly thicker making them a bit more rigid contributing to them staying closed, and lastly the factory added a bead of black rubber caulking across the top of each flap so once dry it tends to hold the rubber closed while still able to operate as designed. I used this procedure in this video for removal and installation, but I added the bead of caulking as the factory did before re-installing the new parts. Had I known, I would have applied the caulking the day before so it had time to dry before hand. Nonetheless, I did it the same day, and it took a little longer, but at least I never had to completely dissemble the interior needlessly. Just left the doors open a couple days to dry out the interior. Since the truck is a 2006, I replaced the inner door weatherstripping before hand also.
I am in Michigan and just got a nice 07 Silverado classic from South Carolina and the vents are leaking. must be a southern thing . maybe the heat and sun drying out the seals . none of my old trucks or buddy's trucks here in Michigan have had this problem that I am aware of. .
In my area, I can usually open the windows on a summer day and let it sit. Dried fine. No mold, no rust. But mine also didn't have this leak but about a week before fixing it. Wasn't as saturated as otherz
Myt 02 2500HD has a drivers side cab vent hanging on some hose going through itand I have no idea what it is. I haven't wanted to crawl under the truck because theres snow under the ground. Anybody know whats through it?
Mines a camper special. The other side has a bunch of wires going through it for that were cut by a previous owner so I'm hoping it's more camper wires or trailer wiring because I don't need it
Then your ears would pop every time you closed the doors. The heat and a/c would be less effect. And greater risk of CO2 poisoning. Vehicles have these vents for a reason.
I sat on this job because I saw everyone else taking seats out and all that work UNTIL i saw your video you saved me a ton of work I had it out in 10 minutes or less and when I pulled out the vent IT HAD NO RUBBER FLAPS THEY WERE GONE thanks a million, all u out there don’t take it apart work smart watch this mans video he paid it forward and it worked
5 minute fixes like this NEVER, I mean N-E-V-E-R, take me 5 minutes. BUT... this one did! I could not believe it! Thank you, thank you, thank you!! I replaced both sides in less than 10 minutes total... I'd estimate a total of 5-7 minutes to replace both!
All my rubber flaps were intact, though hard; I suspect the foam around the vent on my driver side vent was shot, letting in water. This fix could not have been easier!
Thank you for saving me time, I'd like to return the favor and save every one else some time too. Do not buy cheap parts to make major repairs. Cheap aftermarket parts last 6 months to a year and you'll have to do the job again. Also Rockauto sells lots of counterfeit parts and I've had to do repairs a second time due to parts failing. I did an experiment, I purchased a set of timken bearings from Rockauto and Summit racing with the intention of returning one of the sets. The Rock Auto timken wheel bearings say "made in taiwan" the timken bearings that I bought from Summit said "made in USA" I also bought a set of NSK bearings from rockauto labeled "made in taiwan" I bought another from napa and it was labeled "made in Japan" . I called NSK bearing customer support and was informed that none of the NSK Bearings sold in the USA are made in Taiwan and that it was a fake/counterfeit part. Even advance auto parts sells some counterfeit parts also. Beware, spend a little more money and avoid having to redo a repair job. I have had a lot of hardship having to redo repairs and large expense because of this.
Thanks for the help and I appreciate your personality "It is a twenty-dollar piece what are you worried about".
Thank you for sharing this method. It took me longer to clean the old gasket off than to do the removal and installation! I'm a small human, so my hands and arms are thin enough to fit in from the side... I didn't even have to get on the ground!
This video saved me a ton of time. Dealership service manager at GMC said to remove rear seats to get to vents. NOT! Thanks again 2006 GMC Sierra.
Real man of genius. Thank you
You're the man! Took me 5 minutes total for both sides. Thanks brother
I used a piece of plywood that I had laying around bc I couldn’t find a pry bar. Thanks for saving all that time! Great Video!
Dude seriously, you are a treasure amongst the sea of people doing this the hard way. Thanks for saving me a decent amount of time I can utilize elsewhere.
But it still baffled me he couldn't spare 30 seconds to wipe it down lol.
The new design is different it's basically like a suction cup that flattens out, it's best to wipe it down for a much better seal. When I repaired mine I had a decent amount of build up.
wow, saving this to my favorites, didn't even know my 2006 Silverado had vents. Guess i better make sure I'm not getting water in my cab, never noticed but also never checked. I just have my back seat folded up and a bunch of hunting stuff back there.
Follow up: My underlayment was totally soaked and cab vents were bad, verified with a garden hose. Had to remove seats, carpeting and underlayment to dry it all out and new GM vents will be arriving tomorrow by Fedex. thanks buddy!
Did this in 5 minutes thanks to you man, this video should have way more views
Couldn’t be easier! Holy smokes this saved me so much work and further ear on my knees and back!
Thanks, that is awesome. Took all my interior out then saw your video, but applied your suggestion. Thanks again
Glad others can use this to fix their leak!
Common since isn’t so common, thank you for proving what I planned on trying once the new vent valves arrive!
Thank u sir , I’ve drive myself crazy on this one
This man is a godsend
This was the best! I replaced both vents in 10 minutes and I even cleaned around the vent openings before I installed the new ones. HUGE TIME SSAVER!!
Good video saves me a lot of time for my 2004 Chevy Colorado!! just remember to take care of the rust with sand paper and joint sealer and a little paint.. ;) For those who had water in the cabin!!!!!
Not sure the colorado is the same. Mine has no rust and no mold.
I wish I found this video a year ago I’ve been trying to find that lake for a long time I thought it is around the back window and the back glass but this just saved me a lot of headache
You don't need the pry bar.... Pry the latch on the bottom of the vent and it will pop right off. I replaced both of mine in less than 5 minutes. Thanks for the video!!!
So scratch the paint rather then just pop the vent off.......no thanks
@@backyarddoall nope... You won't scratch the paint one bit. More Likely to do it with the pry bar
Omg genius you saved me tons of time did it and it worked great
Thank you for this tip, it works great. To have someone watch from the side of truck. They can let you know if the gasket rolls over before you clip it in.
Having someone watch from the inside would require the inside to be dismantled. That defeats the purpose of this video.
The design of the seal on the vent isn't one that will roll over. It's effectively foam thats glued in place.
I just did mine. Tested them with the hose and the new OEM leaked. So i popped them back out and ran a bead of RTV on both. That solved the issue. In my case taking the back seats out was the way to go.
Exact same thing happened to me, so I siliconed around the vent. GM OE Chinese garbage.
This was definitely the correct procedure. It only took only minutes for removal and installation.
I'm not an expert, but in my observation of comparison between the old part which was superseded by this one GM 13596856, I noted the following which, may have contributed to the longevity of the old part lasting 14 years. First my truck has always remained in a warm tropical climate without the harsh winters experienced by most. Although sun here is relentless. Second the old part GM 15196388 was designed with only four rubber flap vent openings. The fifth on the bottom was permanently closed with hard plastic by the manufacturer. Third the rubber flap vents on the old part were slightly thicker making them a bit more rigid contributing to them staying closed, and lastly the factory added a bead of black rubber caulking across the top of each flap so once dry it tends to hold the rubber closed while still able to operate as designed.
I used this procedure in this video for removal and installation, but I added the bead of caulking as the factory did before re-installing the new parts. Had I known, I would have applied the caulking the day before so it had time to dry before hand. Nonetheless, I did it the same day, and it took a little longer, but at least I never had to completely dissemble the interior needlessly. Just left the doors open a couple days to dry out the interior. Since the truck is a 2006, I replaced the inner door weatherstripping before hand also.
I will spray we 40 maybe once every 4 months as maintenance to keep seals soft and supple so they won’t crack
Thank you. So. So so so much
Thanks for sharing! 😎 did these stop the leaks?
Has on a few trucks
Excellent!!
Tks Man !
I am in Michigan and just got a nice 07 Silverado classic from South Carolina and the vents are leaking. must be a southern thing . maybe the heat and sun drying out the seals . none of my old trucks or buddy's trucks here in Michigan have had this problem that I am aware of. .
I've heard from people all over the country. It happens everywhere. Even well into the rust belt
I’m also worried my toolbox may pose a problem getting a pry bar down from top
@@plainoldme7322 use a piece of wood
Was under your carpet and insulation wet too. How did you dry it?
In my area, I can usually open the windows on a summer day and let it sit. Dried fine. No mold, no rust. But mine also didn't have this leak but about a week before fixing it. Wasn't as saturated as otherz
Why not use some silicone on new install?
@@plainoldme7322 because it has a seal made into it. Nothing else is needed.
Can I do this on a 2008 Silverado without removing interior?
Honestly don't know. It's probably a very similar design
Myt 02 2500HD has a drivers side cab vent hanging on some hose going through itand I have no idea what it is. I haven't wanted to crawl under the truck because theres snow under the ground. Anybody know whats through it?
I've never seen anything go through it.
Mines a camper special. The other side has a bunch of wires going through it for that were cut by a previous owner so I'm hoping it's more camper wires or trailer wiring because I don't need it
@@autumnjeserich2689 I suspect it's something a lazy person did. They are vents and should not have anything passing through.
Id have a metal plate brazed in to get rid of them
Then your ears would pop every time you closed the doors. The heat and a/c would be less effect. And greater risk of CO2 poisoning. Vehicles have these vents for a reason.
I took my seats out and dried it out. Not that big of a deal.
Depends on the truck
This man is a godsend