You my friend are hands down the best teacher I’ve ever been lucky enough to learn from. The way you explain things I understand perfectly and if I had teachers like that in school my grades would have damn sure been a lot better than what they were👍🏼
Only decent videos I’ve found on these street demons.. was ready to get rid of it and get something else and was blessed to come across your series. Gonna get my carb tuned up right!!!
These are decent carburetors, other than the seemingly stupid design decision to put the screws on the bottom so that you have to remove the carb from the car to change jets. There isn't much info about best jet selection on-line though, so thanks for covering that. I have an AMC 304 and came close to the same conclusion on choice of jets. I'm at 78 primary and 76 secondary. It actually ran fine out of the box but with bad gas mileage and black smoke out the exhaust at WOT. All good since changing jets.
I run a 750 street demon on a bbc 454. The engine loves the carb. I went down one rod size and tightened the secondary air door a smidge. Most of the bog can be fixed with tightening that secondary are door. I also recommend lighter advance springs in your distributor to get full advance around 2800.
Thanks for watching. Good to hear the the big block is liking it. My 302 is doing a lot better with it also. It sounds like that big motor needed more fuel flow, I have learned that when the motor is bogging or coughing yes the spring needs tightened counter clockwise to keep the valve shut longer. It kinda works like the choke valve.
what size primary jets did yours come with? mine had 89s. ive got a mild built 400 mopar, and its a bit rich on idle, and puffs black out the pipes on primary only revs. im thinking the primary jets are too big, or the metering rods are too small. i can rattle the metering rods around in the jet LOL.
Hello multinjok Thanks for watching. that’s the issue I am having also and I found out if the car is stumbling when you you floor it the goggle valve has to much fuel. If it starts coffing and gasping there’s not enough fuel. So loosen the spring (clock wise) a 1/8 to1/4 turn at a time. If your going the right way the stumbling gets smaller
In the instructions it says that if you experiance stumble or bog you should tighten the spring counter clockwise...kind of the opposite of what we are talking here...how come? I dont understand how it pulls fuel through the secondaries if the flap is closed?
multinjok the instructions are vague. What I have learned about the goggle valve is it controls the rate of fuel when you open the secondary’s all the way. When the spring is tighter it causes a richer condition. Which makes a stumble because it gave it to much fuel to quick. If the is set to light it causes a cough because it’s opening to soon before the fuel gets out. The fuel is pulled out by vacuum by that valve. Mine had a #80 jet and I was loosening the spring to get rid of the stumbling and it was working. But it was getting to loose so I have put a #79 in and I have more adjustments again
multinjok yea I know what you mean the instructions and on the internet don’t really talk about in detail. I have a AFR gage and I am watching it wile doing the adjustments I see the rich and lean conditions. Okay the spring is adjusted tight the valve is closed it’s pulling fuel in with no air flow causes a rich condition. Okay the spring is adjusted loose the valve opens to soon and is flowing all of the air before the fuel gets out of Venturies causesa lean condition. That’s what we are trying to do is balance that.
You may have yours Miss labeled. As far as CFM, I have the exact same one in the whole time. I thought mine was the 625. Turns out it was the 750. 1903 is the part number on the back driver side of the carb
I might have been. I got it tuned up and running really good before I sold the car. If I buy another one it will be a Edelbrock next time they are betting quality and tune easily
Great video. Thank you. I have a 750 on my 396. I'm getting a lot of "liquid" coming out my exhaust. Smells like fuel. Thoughts? I moved down to bottom notch on accel pump. Adjusted to get good vacuum.
Its the pump, they are junk on these carbs, I got a 750 on my 454 and what I found out is the blue plunger goes out of round and the rubber check deteriorates, the fix is to order a Carter thermoquad leather pump and check ball pump intake and double the spring using a quadrajet spring, on my 454 I also had to add a 4rth hole on the pump arm Along with a .045 tube squirter and hollow screw.
Not sure why, but my street demon 625 is having issues running with my 5.3 LS, it's now having starting issues and it will only keep the engine running if I'm almost floored and it stumbles bad, and leaking a tiny bit of fuel from the intake/carb gasket too, I know I have the correct fuel pressure, even have a working return line, and it's worked fine before today, when I went to start it tonight it would just crank and crank until I floored it and I'd get some pops and bangs then it would start but wouldn't idle at all, even after turning the idle screw up all the way, mixture screws were set when it was running good a couple weeks ago while I had it hooked up to my vacuum gauge and made steady good vacuum but today it just doesn't wanna work
And I have no clue why but the top flap for the secondarys never opens, idk how to adjust that too but that just an air door so I'd assume that's definitely not my issue at hand with the running condition. I confirmed I have good spark and my NGK tr6 plugs are at the out of box gap so spark shouldn't be the issue, and it definitely has compression cause its ran more than 50 times for over 30 minutes, so it leaves me stuck at my carburetor.
And I've been having nothing but issues with the street demon 625 since I bought it, I had a 600 cfm edlebrook 1406 before and that worked just fine till it stopped working completely, since I bought that new street demon carb I've been having fuel delivery issues and running conditions issues like it falling flat on its face past 5 grand in gear and stalls when stomping on it. So I'm thinking something's really wrong with my carburetor
Hello Austin. Sounds like you’re having some serious problems. I hope I can help. I wonder if it’s flooding or is it stopped up with dirt from the fuel lines. Is it making some black smoke? And when it stumbled did it make a Coughing sound? The fuel leak you have is it coming from the float bowl gasket or the gasket under the carb? The dirt could be in the float jets causing it to fill the bowls to full. Sounds like you’re going to have to take it apart and check everything out. I hope I can help. Keep me updated and let know what you find out.
No coughing sound at all, and it does get some slightly black & white smoke but can barley see, and the exhaust fumes burn my eyes too, the fuel is leaking from the gasket at the bottom of the carb that seals the carb to the intake, not the fuel bowl gasket
I'm probably gonna switch back to my edlebrook 1406 after i change the metering rods and step up springs and see if that will change the running conditions, cause it almost seems like its dumping so much fuel at idle or any rpm that it just doesn't wanna run nor idle cause when its finally running after cranking for over 20 seconds and it firing here and then, it will turn over but wont run unless your foot's to the floor or constantly feathering the throttle, chugs and dies after I let my foot off the gas
You are gonna be an expert in trouble-shooting these Street Demon 625 carbs and advanced tuning 'em by the time you are finished working on your project.
@Melvin Jerome I tried signing up, went to click 'Ts&Cs' to read them and what an utter conjob...they wouldn't reveal the Ts&Cs until you clicked 'read Ts&Cs' and agree WITHOUT even reading them...nana that's not how it works.
I’m having an issue to where I put the carb top back on after taking it apart, it gas is spraying from near the entry point out of the gasket. Any advice ?
Okay on the one I worked on i run a flat file with 1500 grit sand paper wrapped around it over the top edge of carburetor to see if had low spots. I also done that to give the gasket something to bite on so it wouldn’t slip out. The gasket surface is to slick.
My Chevy 350 with a .480 intake and .489 exhaust still seems to be running rich at idol and it’s hard to stay in my shop. My transfer slots are perfect and I’m at 12 degrees btdc at idol which is 780 rpms. Should i try softer springs to pull my metering rods down more or do you think i need to rejet. I know you’re gonna tell me to get an afr meter but at this moment i can’t afford one but i am eventually going to get one. Any advice would really help at this point in time. It gets so bad till my eyes start burning and watering ….can you help me brother? Thanks 🙏.
Yes I will help you all I can. I done this without a AFR gauge for a long time but it does get the motor perfect. Okay so it’s running you out of your garage! And it just idling right? Turn your idle air screws in till it wants to quit running and remember how many turns it was. That just leaned it completely out to a stall condition. And sounds like you are already at a very rich condition. So going in with the idle air screws is the direction you need to go. If you can go to the parts store and pick up a vacuum gauge kit I will help almost as much as a AFR gauge. Because you watch that gauge and adjust the idle air screws at the same time and get the best vacuum reading at idle you can. Now the engine my or might not cough a little when you rev it. If it does turn the idle air screws out a small amount to try to overcome that cough. Using the vacuum gauge and a timing light together will get it running a lot better
@@AJWildhorse Thanks for responding. I will try that and i do have a vacuum gauge and I’ll use that also plus my timing light. I appreciate you. Thanks a million 👍🏻
I have a 625 and one day it got hard to start Had it on the truck about a year. Last winter I could turn the key pump once and it would fire right up and idle fine. Now first start of the day hot or cold weather it acts like it’s flooded Have to use starting fluid to get it to fire up quick. Once it has started for the day it is fine Any idea of what it could be? Thanks
It could possibly be the small plastic hose going from the pump up to the squirter it gets hard. And it loses its seal then leak’s down. That needs checked and replaced.
I have a 625 on a newly build small journal 327 sbc. Cpl issues im having is idle surging if i bring idle below 975...overall seems rich as the A/F screws really do nothing even when all the way in.....What AFR guage are you using? I just hooked up an AEM so that will hopefully help out with the tuning...
Hello Chad. Yes the AEM will work great! You don’t really know until you see what the AFR gauge is telling you. If the idle air screws don’t work you might be turning your idle speed screw in to much and getting out of the idle circuit. And what size cam you running? You have use ignition timing to help with idle also.
@@AJWildhorse will do...Its a complete frame up project, and not drive able at this point...Id like to get it idling good and carb somewhat tuned to the extent i can before its maiden voyage...From what i am reading, it seems that these street demons seem to be pretty rich out of the box..Its a brand new rebuild and cam break-in is finished...Motor runs great but doesnt want to idle down below 900 at all...It has a mild cam but has a fair amount of overlap...It is a 284/284 218@.050 .458 cam. Ill attach a video if i can...EDIT...it wont let me attach a link to a video...check my youtube and ill put them there...
@@honda90084 I had to watch my video again to refresh my memory, okay this is what remember about the final runs. I dropped the primary down to 78, and dropped the secondary down also I think it was 78 too. Now at constant speed of 55to 60 it was perfect running 14.5 on AFR gauge. At wide open it starts to lean out close to 6000rpm but my stumble was gone, I thought by putting the 80 back in the primary and using the largest needle, and leaving the 78 in the secondary would make it run it’s best for me. Let me know if this helps.
Ok. 3 years have passed since you posted the videos on the Demon Carb. Any other problems? Do you still run the carb? Would you recommend it 3 years later?
Hello. No other troubles has happened. But I have adjusted it as the weather changes. 3 years later has told me that I would recommend a Edelbrock 625 carburetor. It works better for the person that wants to jump in the car and drive it or cruise it. once you tune the edelbrock it’s trouble free. The street demon might win the race but the edelbrock is worry free.
Thanks again for responding back!!! What TH-cam community is all about in being polite and helping one another out. Nominate you for TH-camr of the year.
Hi, thanks for the videos. I have street demon on my 350 sbc Iroc-z. It runs good, i put some bigger metering rods in it for a better fuel consumption and thats about it. Sometimes when i floor it from a dead stop it hesitates for a half a second and then pulls normal. What do you think is it? Should i adjust the flap door for secondaries a bit loose? Thanks again.
Tighten them. You are experiencing a bog. Too much air without fuel flow. Used to happen a lot with quadrajets, just tighten the air door spring a little.
I think I put 75 back in but it leaned it out at 5000 should have kept the original in it. I have come to the conclusion that a Edelbrock will run better
You my friend are hands down the best teacher I’ve ever been lucky enough to learn from.
The way you explain things I understand perfectly and if I had teachers like that in school my grades would have damn sure been a lot better than what they were👍🏼
Well great I am glad to help.
Hello Matthew have you checked out my other videos about the Mustang I built, there’s a cold start one, and some driving ones.
@@AJWildhorse I’ve watched all of your videos pertaining to cars or SBF stuff
Only decent videos I’ve found on these street demons.. was ready to get rid of it and get something else and was blessed to come across your series. Gonna get my carb tuned up right!!!
Thanks I appreciate it. Also read the comments where we discussed some issues
Excellent series on these carbs. Thank you! Nice to see some helpful troubleshooting in the comments rather than bickering.
Thanks I appreciate that.
just got a 625 street demon for my 56 cheverolet project. SBC 350 30 over with 480 cam. Thanks.
Perfect video for what I've been looking for. Thank you
Thank you, have the same issue on my 355, stumble, tried everything and tech support was of no use.
These are decent carburetors, other than the seemingly stupid design decision to put the screws on the bottom so that you have to remove the carb from the car to change jets. There isn't much info about best jet selection on-line though, so thanks for covering that. I have an AMC 304 and came close to the same conclusion on choice of jets. I'm at 78 primary and 76 secondary. It actually ran fine out of the box but with bad gas mileage and black smoke out the exhaust at WOT. All good since changing jets.
I run a 750 street demon on a bbc 454. The engine loves the carb. I went down one rod size and tightened the secondary air door a smidge. Most of the bog can be fixed with tightening that secondary are door. I also recommend lighter advance springs in your distributor to get full advance around 2800.
Thanks for watching. Good to hear the the big block is liking it. My 302 is doing a lot better with it also. It sounds like that big motor needed more fuel flow, I have learned that when the motor is bogging or coughing yes the spring needs tightened counter clockwise to keep the valve shut longer. It kinda works like the choke valve.
Hell I've got mine in at 2,000RPM
what size primary jets did yours come with? mine had 89s. ive got a mild built 400 mopar, and its a bit rich on idle, and puffs black out the pipes on primary only revs. im thinking the primary jets are too big, or the metering rods are too small. i can rattle the metering rods around in the jet LOL.
Hello multinjok Thanks for watching. that’s the issue I am having also and I found out if the car is stumbling when you you floor it the goggle valve has to much fuel. If it starts coffing and gasping there’s not enough fuel. So loosen the spring (clock wise) a 1/8 to1/4 turn at a time. If your going the right way the stumbling gets smaller
In the instructions it says that if you experiance stumble or bog you should tighten the spring counter clockwise...kind of the opposite of what we are talking here...how come? I dont understand how it pulls fuel through the secondaries if the flap is closed?
multinjok the instructions are vague. What I have learned about the goggle valve is it controls the rate of fuel when you open the secondary’s all the way. When the spring is tighter it causes a richer condition. Which makes a stumble because it gave it to much fuel to quick. If the is set to light it causes a cough because it’s opening to soon before the fuel gets out. The fuel is pulled out by vacuum by that valve. Mine had a #80 jet and I was loosening the spring to get rid of the stumbling and it was working. But it was getting to loose so I have put a #79 in and I have more adjustments again
multinjok yea I know what you mean the instructions and on the internet don’t really talk about in detail. I have a AFR gage and I am watching it wile doing the adjustments I see the rich and lean conditions. Okay the spring is adjusted tight the valve is closed it’s pulling fuel in with no air flow causes a rich condition. Okay the spring is adjusted loose the valve opens to soon and is flowing all of the air before the fuel gets out of Venturies causesa lean condition. That’s what we are trying to do is balance that.
I was getting valve chatter at wot. I increased the jet size of the secondary and that cured it.
Thanks. Same carb, same problems.
You’re welcome
Awesome job man, helped me shes runnin good now. It had like .80 jets in the 4bbl
Thanks Scott. I am glad all of this is helpful
You may have yours Miss labeled. As far as CFM, I have the exact same one in the whole time. I thought mine was the 625. Turns out it was the 750. 1903 is the part number on the back driver side of the carb
I might have been. I got it tuned up and running really good before I sold the car. If I buy another one it will be a Edelbrock next time they are betting quality and tune easily
Excellent video. I have a Demon 625 on my 383 Stroker and finally getting it almost perfectly dialed in. Do you have a video on switching squirters?
Hello and thank you. No I don’t have a video about changing squirters sorry. It’s the same as Holly’s
Great video. Thank you. I have a 750 on my 396. I'm getting a lot of "liquid" coming out my exhaust. Smells like fuel. Thoughts?
I moved down to bottom notch on accel pump. Adjusted to get good vacuum.
Is that at idle when you smell it. The idle enrichment screws could be putting to much fuel through. May need to turn them in a little
What size secondary jets did you install ?
Its the pump, they are junk on these carbs, I got a 750 on my 454 and what I found out is the blue plunger goes out of round and the rubber check deteriorates, the fix is to order a Carter thermoquad leather pump and check ball pump intake and double the spring using a quadrajet spring, on my 454 I also had to add a 4rth hole on the pump arm Along with a .045 tube squirter and hollow screw.
Thanks for your input on the big block carburetor 750. I am so glad that we all are sharing on what we have done to help each other.
Not sure why, but my street demon 625 is having issues running with my 5.3 LS, it's now having starting issues and it will only keep the engine running if I'm almost floored and it stumbles bad, and leaking a tiny bit of fuel from the intake/carb gasket too, I know I have the correct fuel pressure, even have a working return line, and it's worked fine before today, when I went to start it tonight it would just crank and crank until I floored it and I'd get some pops and bangs then it would start but wouldn't idle at all, even after turning the idle screw up all the way, mixture screws were set when it was running good a couple weeks ago while I had it hooked up to my vacuum gauge and made steady good vacuum but today it just doesn't wanna work
And I have no clue why but the top flap for the secondarys never opens, idk how to adjust that too but that just an air door so I'd assume that's definitely not my issue at hand with the running condition. I confirmed I have good spark and my NGK tr6 plugs are at the out of box gap so spark shouldn't be the issue, and it definitely has compression cause its ran more than 50 times for over 30 minutes, so it leaves me stuck at my carburetor.
And I've been having nothing but issues with the street demon 625 since I bought it, I had a 600 cfm edlebrook 1406 before and that worked just fine till it stopped working completely, since I bought that new street demon carb I've been having fuel delivery issues and running conditions issues like it falling flat on its face past 5 grand in gear and stalls when stomping on it. So I'm thinking something's really wrong with my carburetor
Hello Austin. Sounds like you’re having some serious problems. I hope I can help. I wonder if it’s flooding or is it stopped up with dirt from the fuel lines. Is it making some black smoke? And when it stumbled did it make a Coughing sound? The fuel leak you have is it coming from the float bowl gasket or the gasket under the carb? The dirt could be in the float jets causing it to fill the bowls to full. Sounds like you’re going to have to take it apart and check everything out. I hope I can help. Keep me updated and let know what you find out.
No coughing sound at all, and it does get some slightly black & white smoke but can barley see, and the exhaust fumes burn my eyes too, the fuel is leaking from the gasket at the bottom of the carb that seals the carb to the intake, not the fuel bowl gasket
I'm probably gonna switch back to my edlebrook 1406 after i change the metering rods and step up springs and see if that will change the running conditions, cause it almost seems like its dumping so much fuel at idle or any rpm that it just doesn't wanna run nor idle cause when its finally running after cranking for over 20 seconds and it firing here and then, it will turn over but wont run unless your foot's to the floor or constantly feathering the throttle, chugs and dies after I let my foot off the gas
You are gonna be an expert in trouble-shooting these Street Demon 625 carbs and advanced tuning 'em by the time you are finished working on your project.
@Melvin Jerome I tried signing up, went to click 'Ts&Cs' to read them and what an utter conjob...they wouldn't reveal the Ts&Cs until you clicked 'read Ts&Cs' and agree WITHOUT even reading them...nana that's not how it works.
I’m having an issue to where I put the carb top back on after taking it apart, it gas is spraying from near the entry point out of the gasket. Any advice ?
Okay on the one I worked on i run a flat file with 1500 grit sand paper wrapped around it over the top edge of carburetor to see if had low spots. I also done that to give the gasket something to bite on so it wouldn’t slip out. The gasket surface is to slick.
I have a 750 street demon for my gen v 454. I'm new to carbs. Know much on these?
David Warden. Hello David I would be glad to help. Start gathering information on how it’s running and we will work it out
My Chevy 350 with a .480 intake and .489 exhaust still seems to be running rich at idol and it’s hard to stay in my shop. My transfer slots are perfect and I’m at 12 degrees btdc at idol which is 780 rpms. Should i try softer springs to pull my metering rods down more or do you think i need to rejet. I know you’re gonna tell me to get an afr meter but at this moment i can’t afford one but i am eventually going to get one. Any advice would really help at this point in time. It gets so bad till my eyes start burning and watering ….can you help me brother? Thanks 🙏.
Yes I will help you all I can. I done this without a AFR gauge for a long time but it does get the motor perfect. Okay so it’s running you out of your garage! And it just idling right? Turn your idle air screws in till it wants to quit running and remember how many turns it was. That just leaned it completely out to a stall condition. And sounds like you are already at a very rich condition. So going in with the idle air screws is the direction you need to go. If you can go to the parts store and pick up a vacuum gauge kit I will help almost as much as a AFR gauge. Because you watch that gauge and adjust the idle air screws at the same time and get the best vacuum reading at idle you can. Now the engine my or might not cough a little when you rev it. If it does turn the idle air screws out a small amount to try to overcome that cough. Using the vacuum gauge and a timing light together will get it running a lot better
@@AJWildhorse Thanks for responding. I will try that and i do have a vacuum gauge and I’ll use that also plus my timing light. I appreciate you. Thanks a million 👍🏻
@@glockman8091 okay!! Let me know how you do good or bad.
I have a 625 and one day it got hard to start Had it on the truck about a year. Last winter I could turn the key pump once and it would fire right up and idle fine. Now first start of the day hot or cold weather it acts like it’s flooded Have to use starting fluid to get it to fire up quick. Once it has started for the day it is fine Any idea of what it could be? Thanks
It could possibly be the small plastic hose going from the pump up to the squirter it gets hard. And it loses its seal then leak’s down. That needs checked and replaced.
I have a 625 on a newly build small journal 327 sbc. Cpl issues im having is idle surging if i bring idle below 975...overall seems rich as the A/F screws really do nothing even when all the way in.....What AFR guage are you using? I just hooked up an AEM so that will hopefully help out with the tuning...
Hello Chad. Yes the AEM will work great! You don’t really know until you see what the AFR gauge is telling you. If the idle air screws don’t work you might be turning your idle speed screw in to much and getting out of the idle circuit. And what size cam you running? You have use ignition timing to help with idle also.
Please let me know your results. I am glad to help.
@@AJWildhorse will do...Its a complete frame up project, and not drive able at this point...Id like to get it idling good and carb somewhat tuned to the extent i can before its maiden voyage...From what i am reading, it seems that these street demons seem to be pretty rich out of the box..Its a brand new rebuild and cam break-in is finished...Motor runs great but doesnt want to idle down below 900 at all...It has a mild cam but has a fair amount of overlap...It is a 284/284 218@.050 .458 cam. Ill attach a video if i can...EDIT...it wont let me attach a link to a video...check my youtube and ill put them there...
So what size jets did you end up using. Stocks are 80s an I put 76s in an there a little on the small size. Fixing to try some 78s.
Are referring to the front primary or the rear secondary jets?
I think the 78 in the secondary side is better. You have to go one at a time each size makes a big difference.
@@AJWildhorse ok thanks. Both primary an secondary.
@@AJWildhorse I'm ordering some 78s, an 79s. I already have one size smaller on the needles
@@honda90084 I had to watch my video again to refresh my memory, okay this is what remember about the final runs. I dropped the primary down to 78, and dropped the secondary down also I think it was 78 too. Now at constant speed of 55to 60 it was perfect running 14.5 on AFR gauge. At wide open it starts to lean out close to 6000rpm but my stumble was gone, I thought by putting the 80 back in the primary and using the largest needle, and leaving the 78 in the secondary would make it run it’s best for me. Let me know if this helps.
Ok. 3 years have passed since you posted the videos on the Demon Carb. Any other problems? Do you still run the carb? Would you recommend it 3 years later?
Hello. No other troubles has happened. But I have adjusted it as the weather changes. 3 years later has told me that I would recommend a Edelbrock 625 carburetor. It works better for the person that wants to jump in the car and drive it or cruise it. once you tune the edelbrock it’s trouble free. The street demon might win the race but the edelbrock is worry free.
Thank you for responding. Last question. Did the modification to the tube with the weed eater and wire hold up? Or did it break down with the fuel?
@@AztecRipper the tube I replaced is working good.
Thanks again for responding back!!! What TH-cam community is all about in being polite and helping one another out. Nominate you for TH-camr of the year.
Hi, thanks for the videos. I have street demon on my 350 sbc Iroc-z. It runs good, i put some bigger metering rods in it for a better fuel consumption and thats about it. Sometimes when i floor it from a dead stop it hesitates for a half a second and then pulls normal. What do you think is it? Should i adjust the flap door for secondaries a bit loose? Thanks again.
I posted a comment on TH-cam
Tighten them. You are experiencing a bog. Too much air without fuel flow. Used to happen a lot with quadrajets, just tighten the air door spring a little.
air door is probably too lose.that or too big on the secondary jets.
Great video, it sounds like contemporary Christian music in the background, and you are working on a demon. Joke aside thank you for the info.
What size secondarys did you put on? I'm having the same exact issue
I think I put 75 back in but it leaned it out at 5000 should have kept the original in it. I have come to the conclusion that a Edelbrock will run better
@@AJWildhorse I am starting to think the same thing... what about the metering rods?
@@JackSpeed I bought that kit and used out of it. The smallest needle in the factory jet.
@@AJWildhorse thank you
I'm having the same problem. How did it do with the smaller jets?
Thanks for watching. Well a little goes a long way. The primary jets I ended up with a 50/52 metering rod. And a #79 in the secondary’s.
@@AJWildhorse I was gonna swap my secondary to 78s this weekend. Really great videos.
@@tommynixon9774 it done better. A little goes a long way. Try one size at a time.
You need to lock out the distributor
I did end up putting some set screws in it to limit the movement.