Gonna toss my 2 cents worth again, lol. When you run multiple batteries, best practice is to run your circuits off opposite ends of the buss bar. Say bats "A, B, and C" are your 3 bat bank. Hook your positive lead the A end of the pos buss, your ground to the C end. Hooking both to the same end can result in a single battery handling most of the load. Another often neglected test when you get charging problems is to check for ac leakage in the alternator diodes. Charge your bat(s), fire up the engine, then hook an ac voltmeter between your hot and ground. If you get ac, any ac, it's killing your bats nice and slow. It's also a "slow leak" drain on your bats. A single diode being "just a little reverse bias leaky" can make you spend dough on bats better spent on groceries, lol. Some ac meter schemes will show a reading when hooked to DC however. To eliminate false reading, check both running and engine off. Should read the same on ac scale. If you see a volt or more difference, guaranteed leakage. Love the channel Gordon!
Every time I had to reuse an old battery. It would shorten the new battery's life. I did it a few years ago. My truck took 4 battery's, and by using 2 of the old ones that tested good. The 2 new ones, only lasted 14 months. But when I would put all new ones in place. I would get 3 to 5 years out of them.
This is true if you leave a weak battery in with a new one but if you check the batteries often enough to catch one getting weak it won't have a chance to hurt the new one. In my case that hasn't been a problem for me because I do a lot of electric work and usually catch it before it has a chance to hurt anything. It's saved me a lot of money over the years.
Have a question Gordon. My truck sat for awhile and my inverter ran the batteries down I have driven a few days now and mostly been starting ok but sometimes when I try to start it the starter locks up just makes a clunking instead of rolling over is it the starter? Or are my batteries still low? I never had starter problems before it's a detroit like yours.
@@57bagre The link took me to the closed top battery nuts. The battery nuts that you use are open top with threads. I've never seen those type of battery nuts. I found some on ebay. Thanks.
Gordon can you explain how a non-mechanic truck driver can jump start a 3 battery setup? Is there a way to do it with a $600 pro mechanic style jumper? Got a dead kenworth right now and in-lieu of trickle charging each battery with a 12-volt charger I'm looking for way to jump start. Any help appreciated, thanks
Just hook up cables from a car the same as you would jump any other car and let the car run for maybe 1/2 hour to charge the truck batteries before trying to start it.
@@57bagre thanks Gordon. I like your approach to things. People always quick to jump on somebody sharing their knowledge at the slightest difference. You know the correct way my friend. Keep it up.
If you have a volt meter on your dash, just look at that and turn on a few accessories and kick your idle up a little (800 - 1000 rpm) and see if your volts stay between 13 and 14 volts. If you don't have a volt meter on your dashboard then clip a handheld meter on the battery. Good subject for a video.
Question sir, when I check my batteries while connected parallel it shows a lower CCA than when they are individually tested. Am I doing something wrong or are my cables bad? Voltages on both batteries are the same.
Well you keep saying this old truck. Well that old truck will last longer then this new crap. Last winter I had to run down to erie pa from buffalo in the wrecker to do a tractor swap for yrc. The unit I was bringing back from pa went into derate mode. Well I showed up and the driver asked me. That wrecker got def on it. No sir that's a 93 kenworth with a 60 series and a 13 speed. We buy or build order stuff without the def. He said lucky you lol. It was freezing cold that night lucky the tractor stayed running to keep him warm
you mentioned that the original 9/16s nuts that go originally with the batteries tend to get loose and thats my case big time any suggestions on how to eliminate that problem budd?
Try twisting the cables to the counter clockwise side while tightening the nuts, hold them far enough to that side so they will not turn all the way back to their natural position while you tighten the nut, then the cables are pulling slightly to the tightening direction when they are relaxed. Thanks for the question.
The spark at 10:30 when connecting the ground strap to the middle battery negative post indicates there is a parasitic draw, which can cause the batteries to go dead over time, if the truck is not run.
The parasitic draw you are referring to is the ECM (electronic control module) (the engine computer) it always has a slight surge when reconnected, also the power inverter does that too. Thanks for the comment.
I would be interested in the combined key off amperage draw for the two components. In the 47 years and since ECM's were introduced that I have been changing out group 31 batteries, I haven't seen such a big spark unless there was excessive draw somewhere.
I went back to that place at 10:24 to see that spark and it looks like a 15a spark like headlights would be, but I've been driving this truck for 14 years and I have seen that surge many times when reconnecting the batteries, it doesn't drain them, it might if it were parked for a couple months but I doubt it, if you touch the cable and get a spark and pull it away and touch again within a couple seconds, there is no spark, so I don't think you'll get any measurable amp draw after the surge, it probably would barely light a test light. Thanks.
...Those 'Continental' batterys....how good are they....what kind of $$$ and life do you get....nice job cleaning all the 'semi-conductor' dirty stuff.....!
Did you see my new video (Brazing, and repairing broken ground stud) on fixing the loose ground that you brought to my attention? the nut was tight but the threads were bad.
+Gordon Robertson in the Video you mentioned that you have more Machines Standing around - what Kind of Machines? also: would you recon the life in america? here in Germany its so... ruled by the goverment. best regards, Martin
I'm sorry, I don't know what you mean by recon, maybe we use that word differently here in the U.S. My other machines are bobcat, mimi excavator, and a number of small engine machines for landscape work. As for the government, we have our share of problems, if you're lazy and have no discipline, the government will meet all your needs at the expense of those who work hard, and we are taxed out of almost everything we don't need to eat. How then did I buy all this equipment? If I wasn't a mechanic before I was a truck driver, I could not have bought this old junk and repaired it all. Yes this is the land of oppertunity but you have to know how to defend yourself from the government or they will eat you alive. We can continue this on private msg. If you want. Thanks for your comment.
Excellent video’s Gordon.Educational and informative.Thanks so much from Edmonton, Alberta!!
Thanks Glenn.
CLR and hot water cleans all that stuff off quickly.
Gonna toss my 2 cents worth again, lol. When you run multiple batteries, best practice is to run your circuits off opposite ends of the buss bar. Say bats "A, B, and C" are your 3 bat bank. Hook your positive lead the A end of the pos buss, your ground to the C end. Hooking both to the same end can result in a single battery handling most of the load. Another often neglected test when you get charging problems is to check for ac leakage in the alternator diodes. Charge your bat(s), fire up the engine, then hook an ac voltmeter between your hot and ground. If you get ac, any ac, it's killing your bats nice and slow. It's also a "slow leak" drain on your bats. A single diode being "just a little reverse bias leaky" can make you spend dough on bats better spent on groceries, lol. Some ac meter schemes will show a reading when hooked to DC however. To eliminate false reading, check both running and engine off. Should read the same on ac scale. If you see a volt or more difference, guaranteed leakage. Love the channel Gordon!
Holy truck this comment literally saved my life brother. Thank you
@@thevikig420 you're very welcome, glad it was useful
Every time I had to reuse an old battery. It would shorten the new battery's life. I did it a few years ago. My truck took 4 battery's, and by using 2 of the old ones that tested good. The 2 new ones, only lasted 14 months. But when I would put all new ones in place. I would get 3 to 5 years out of them.
This is true if you leave a weak battery in with a new one but if you check the batteries often enough to catch one getting weak it won't have a chance to hurt the new one. In my case that hasn't been a problem for me because I do a lot of electric work and usually catch it before it has a chance to hurt anything. It's saved me a lot of money over the years.
Sr. Gordon excelente video y sobre todo me fue de mucha utilidad para cuando conecte mis baterías, que Dios lo bendiga, un abrazo.
Gracias Jose, bueno que te ayudo.
With good batteries and a gear reduction starter and good cables and ground connections. That Detroit would spin over in 0 degree weather.
Watching your classic vids💲📺❤
Have a question Gordon.
My truck sat for awhile and my inverter ran the batteries down
I have driven a few days now and mostly been starting ok but sometimes when I try to start it the starter locks up just makes a clunking instead of rolling over is it the starter? Or are my batteries still low? I never had starter problems before it's a detroit like yours.
Thank you for your excellent videos
Thank you for watching.
Wrap the red cable on the negative side with black electrical tape
Where do you buy the battery nuts with the open threads?
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S10JMBO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Also any truck dealer or farm supply.
@@57bagre The link took me to the closed top battery nuts. The battery nuts that you use are open top with threads. I've never seen those type of battery nuts. I found some on ebay. Thanks.
Keep the videos coming!
Thanks Tom.
Gordon can you explain how a non-mechanic truck driver can jump start a 3 battery setup? Is there a way to do it with a $600 pro mechanic style jumper? Got a dead kenworth right now and in-lieu of trickle charging each battery with a 12-volt charger I'm looking for way to jump start. Any help appreciated, thanks
Sorry, Meant is a way to do it WITHOUT $600 pro mechanic style jumper?
Just hook up cables from a car the same as you would jump any other car and let the car run for maybe 1/2 hour to charge the truck batteries before trying to start it.
@@57bagre thanks Gordon. I like your approach to things. People always quick to jump on somebody sharing their knowledge at the slightest difference. You know the correct way my friend. Keep it up.
Gordon, how do you test an alternator? Can you do a video please. Thanks for sharing.
If you have a volt meter on your dash, just look at that and turn on a few accessories and kick your idle up a little (800 - 1000 rpm) and see if your volts stay between 13 and 14 volts. If you don't have a volt meter on your dashboard then clip a handheld meter on the battery. Good subject for a video.
@@57bagre Thank you very much, I will do that.
Question sir, when I check my batteries while connected parallel it shows a lower CCA than when they are individually tested. Am I doing something wrong or are my cables bad? Voltages on both batteries are the same.
Sorry, I can't answer that without testing it myself.
Well you keep saying this old truck. Well that old truck will last longer then this new crap. Last winter I had to run down to erie pa from buffalo in the wrecker to do a tractor swap for yrc. The unit I was bringing back from pa went into derate mode. Well I showed up and the driver asked me. That wrecker got def on it. No sir that's a 93 kenworth with a 60 series and a 13 speed. We buy or build order stuff without the def. He said lucky you lol. It was freezing cold that night lucky the tractor stayed running to keep him warm
I have no intention of getting a newer truck, I used to be a car mechanic a long time ago but I was never a computer technician. Thanks for watching.
I think I remember you from a couple years ago, were you following me then?
@@57bagre I don't blame ya. I need to catch up on your video's
@@57bagre yes sir
Good information
you mentioned that the original 9/16s nuts that go originally with the batteries tend to get loose and thats my case big time any suggestions on how to eliminate that problem budd?
Try twisting the cables to the counter clockwise side while tightening the nuts, hold them far enough to that side so they will not turn all the way back to their natural position while you tighten the nut, then the cables are pulling slightly to the tightening direction when they are relaxed. Thanks for the question.
+Gordon Robertson Actuality thank you makes sense and i wouldn't though about it in a 1000 years
Very welcome, I hope it helps.
The spark at 10:30 when connecting the ground strap to the middle battery negative post indicates there is a parasitic draw, which can cause the batteries to go dead over time, if the truck is not run.
The parasitic draw you are referring to is the ECM (electronic control module) (the engine computer) it always has a slight surge when reconnected, also the power inverter does that too. Thanks for the comment.
I would be interested in the combined key off amperage draw for the two components. In the 47 years and since ECM's were introduced that I have been changing out group 31 batteries, I haven't seen such a big spark unless there was excessive draw somewhere.
I went back to that place at 10:24 to see that spark and it looks like a 15a spark like headlights would be, but I've been driving this truck for 14 years and I have seen that surge many times when reconnecting the batteries, it doesn't drain them, it might if it were parked for a couple months but I doubt it, if you touch the cable and get a spark and pull it away and touch again within a couple seconds, there is no spark, so I don't think you'll get any measurable amp draw after the surge, it probably would barely light a test light. Thanks.
I think if I remember, probably 90% of that surge is the power inverter, it's a big one and I have had it in there since I bought the truck in '02
That makes sense to me.
...Those 'Continental' batterys....how good are they....what kind of $$$ and life do you get....nice job cleaning all the 'semi-conductor' dirty stuff.....!
they cost about $130 each, they last about 5 to 7 years.
to check battery should have each one unhooked the way u did was pulling from other one on + side
I did it right, I have a lot of experience with electric.
That a Boy Gordon
Every three to five years you wanna replace the batteries. Doesn't matter if it's a semi or a car
anybody else see the sparks fly when The starter kicked? your youtube timeline indicator may be in the way.. ? (min:17:02)
I think you need to look at the ground on the frame it shot out sparks at 17:02
Thanks, I'll have a look next time the truck is at home and make sure everything is tight.
Did you see my new video (Brazing, and repairing broken ground stud) on fixing the loose ground that you brought to my attention? the nut was tight but the threads were bad.
I watch that video i'm glad you found the problem.Their nothing i hate worse then turning off a truck and it won't restart.
hoooopi.
Gordon - where do you live?
Illinois, near St Louis, Missouri
+Gordon Robertson in the Video you mentioned that you have more Machines Standing around - what Kind of Machines? also: would you recon the life in america? here in Germany its so... ruled by the goverment. best regards, Martin
I'm sorry, I don't know what you mean by recon, maybe we use that word differently here in the U.S. My other machines are bobcat, mimi excavator, and a number of small engine machines for landscape work. As for the government, we have our share of problems, if you're lazy and have no discipline, the government will meet all your needs at the expense of those who work hard, and we are taxed out of almost everything we don't need to eat. How then did I buy all this equipment? If I wasn't a mechanic before I was a truck driver, I could not have bought this old junk and repaired it all. Yes this is the land of oppertunity but you have to know how to defend yourself from the government or they will eat you alive. We can continue this on private msg. If you want. Thanks for your comment.
I can charge Solar panels
Dead cells