I've lost rack of how many crf300l handlebar install videos I've watched but yours is hands down by FAR the best I've watched. The hole drilling portion alone was gold! Thanks for sharing.
Zip ties on your handlebars are reusable. Don't cut them off. Loosen your handlebars before you start messing with disassembling you throttle assembly. You can slide bars out of throttle tube without disconnecting cables or wiring. You made a lot unnecessary work for yourself.
You nailed it with this video. I want to do the install but was trying to think of the best way to mark the bars for drilling the holes and you just showed me. Thanks!
This video was great man. I just got a CRF300L and funny enough I am planning on getting these same bars cause I had them on my DRZ-400 and loved the feel. I appreciate the thorough walkthrough video!
Very informative and I appreciate you going step-by-step. I also agree with you that the tabs are there for a reason definitely drill the holes also love the 80s cocaine wars music.
@2:43 No "fastener" on any Japanese bike is held by a Phillips head screw. They are JIS and not the same as Phillips. They are marked by a little dimple and require (if you don't want to mangle them) a JIS screw-driver (a $15 tool).
Hey I think u missed a very cool feature of this kit. I have been looking at many kits, but I like this one the best. The inner handlebar "clamps" come with two sets of split bushings, one for factory and one for fat bar. As the fat bar tapers in the location of the clamps, the thinner split bushings are also tapered. This way the clamps end up with a "straight/flat" Clamping surface. Without using these tapered split bushings, the clamps only apply force on the thicker side of the bar......... Sorry for the thumbs down, it was a fat finger mistake.
top video. does the clutch lever touch protaper "grip collar" when pressing to the limit, or does it go into contact to the regular grip surface, just as it is on stock grips?
Yes, the stock bars have an indentation at that spot. It's to prevent the controls from twisting with the throttle. Some guys just use tape but as I said in the video, I'd rather just utilize the tabs in the controls. They're there for a reason.
@@XSRDetroit They stay in position anyway, nothing moves, I've done it on other bikes as well as on the CRF300, and on the Africa Twin that I have now, you can also find numerous videos of others who don't make holes, and if they don't make holes, you can make further small movements if needed, for example you could move the clutch lever slightly inward and not cut the lever, to the right it can make sense but to the left it's just an extra complication.
@@Skatafossy i was wondering about this. if i drilled the holes wouldn't the angle of the levers be fixed after that point? if i was about to go do trails or a BDR or something, i might want to change the angle of the levers since i know i'd be standing more. i figured if i drilled the holes then it'd be a permanent decision on lever angle.
hi mate, maybe you can help.. I changed my standard handlebar to protaper cr high + Zeta handguards. Same end inserts what you have. But seems my right side of handlebar has 12mm hole, and the insert is 13mm. Left side of handlebars is fine (14mm so I can fit the insert in), but the right is different. I am wondering if it's factory fault, or do you have same (I did not see such problems in your video :-) )? Maybe different isserts should be for L and R sides? Am I missing something?
I've lost rack of how many crf300l handlebar install videos I've watched but yours is hands down by FAR the best I've watched. The hole drilling portion alone was gold! Thanks for sharing.
I truly appreciate it! I try my best to make the videos as informative as I can. Thank you for watching
There's a lever inside the ziptie that you can pull up to release it. No need to cut it! That way you can re-use them for the new bars.
Came to the comments to say this! Lol
Best install video I've seen so far on this stuff, nice work.
Much appreciated! Thank you!
Zip ties on your handlebars are reusable. Don't cut them off.
Loosen your handlebars before you start messing with disassembling you throttle assembly. You can slide bars out of throttle tube without disconnecting cables or wiring. You made a lot unnecessary work for yourself.
I'm not too worried about zip ties but you've got a point with the throttle tube
You nailed it with this video. I want to do the install but was trying to think of the best way to mark the bars for drilling the holes and you just showed me. Thanks!
Much appreciated, glad to help!
This video was great man. I just got a CRF300L and funny enough I am planning on getting these same bars cause I had them on my DRZ-400 and loved the feel. I appreciate the thorough walkthrough video!
Appreciate you checking out the video! You're welcome dude.
Very informative and I appreciate you going step-by-step. I also agree with you that the tabs are there for a reason definitely drill the holes also love the 80s cocaine wars music.
Excellent video. Thank you.
Great video man. Good job 👏 And yes....just drill the handlebars 👌
Much appreciated! Drilling the bars is the way to go.
Great video
Suggest you purchase a set of hand guard mounting brackets that mount onto the top triple tree clamps…!!!
@2:43 No "fastener" on any Japanese bike is held by a Phillips head screw. They are JIS and not the same as Phillips. They are marked by a little dimple and require (if you don't want to mangle them) a JIS screw-driver (a $15 tool).
Just got the same bars today but I was able to get the gold from Rocky Mountain off-road they were great. Took 2 days good company
They're going to look great on your bike dude.
You can use an air hose to help that grip off the bar .
Exelent tutorial video!
Do you think there is enough cable to get handlebar risers that raise those bars another 1”?
Hey I think u missed a very cool feature of this kit. I have been looking at many kits, but I like this one the best. The inner handlebar "clamps" come with two sets of split bushings, one for factory and one for fat bar. As the fat bar tapers in the location of the clamps, the thinner split bushings are also tapered. This way the clamps end up with a "straight/flat" Clamping surface. Without using these tapered split bushings, the clamps only apply force on the thicker side of the bar......... Sorry for the thumbs down, it was a fat finger mistake.
Yeah I completely forgot to mention that but noticed it when I installed them. Thanks for checking out the video
top video. does the clutch lever touch protaper "grip collar" when pressing to the limit, or does it go into contact to the regular grip surface, just as it is on stock grips?
It contacts the grip, same as stock. Thanks for checking the video out!
@@XSRDetroit thanks for clarifying that for me. subscribed!
Hey man, love the vids. Do you find the the cables tight at all after raising the bar height or no issue?
Thanks dude! I with this riser/bar setup the cables feel fine, if I went higher it might be an issue
i just dont get what you drill the hole for. Does the original handle bar also have a hole in that spot?
Yes, the stock bars have an indentation at that spot. It's to prevent the controls from twisting with the throttle. Some guys just use tape but as I said in the video, I'd rather just utilize the tabs in the controls. They're there for a reason.
Nice video,detailed 👌can you please give us the serial number or exact name for the protaper handlebar and adapters.Thnx
I added all the parts I used to the description for you. Thanks for checking the video out!
Hoping to get a crf 300l this spring. Thoughts on it for a first bike?
It would make a great first bike. Makes enough power but you won't be overwhelmed. It pretty much goes anywhere, it's fun on and off road.
Awesome Appericate the feedback!
I have changed several handlebars but have never drilled holes, in my opinion it is useless
🤔
Holding the controls in place is useless?
@@XSRDetroit They stay in position anyway, nothing moves, I've done it on other bikes as well as on the CRF300, and on the Africa Twin that I have now, you can also find numerous videos of others who don't make holes, and if they don't make holes, you can make further small movements if needed, for example you could move the clutch lever slightly inward and not cut the lever, to the right it can make sense but to the left it's just an extra complication.
@@Skatafossy i was wondering about this. if i drilled the holes wouldn't the angle of the levers be fixed after that point? if i was about to go do trails or a BDR or something, i might want to change the angle of the levers since i know i'd be standing more. i figured if i drilled the holes then it'd be a permanent decision on lever angle.
Are these bars 1 1/8 or did you stick with the stock 7/8 size?
1 1/8 pro taper high bars
Hi, I hesitate between the pro taper evo Henry/Reed vs cr high, any recommendation ? thanks
I haven't ridden with a Henry reed handle bar before, so I can't say. I chose the high bend to make riding standing up easier.
hi mate, maybe you can help.. I changed my standard handlebar to protaper cr high + Zeta handguards. Same end inserts what you have. But seems my right side of handlebar has 12mm hole, and the insert is 13mm. Left side of handlebars is fine (14mm so I can fit the insert in), but the right is different. I am wondering if it's factory fault, or do you have same (I did not see such problems in your video :-) )? Maybe different isserts should be for L and R sides? Am I missing something?
Yeah that's unusual, maybe swap the inserts and see how they fit. All of my hardware was the same size but I'm running the acerbis hand guards.
@@XSRDetroit thx. The insert you used are same what I got. I thing the handlebar is faulty and should have same inner hole diameter on both sides.
What size hole did you drill for the tabs on the handlebar?
To be honest I don't remember, I just started small and worked my way up until the hole matched the mounting tab on the controls
@@XSRDetroit Just finished. 7/32 :-)