HI Ben - great, clear and easy to follow video. I have a couple of questions (with an unfortunately long pre-amble ;-)) I am renovating an old french farmhouse. In the attic (which will be bedrooms) the flooring is huge 4-5 inche thick oak beams. These were water damaged due to a poor roof before i moved in so in places are very uneven on the top surface. From the bottom though you can see that this has not effected the integrity of the beams and they are all straight and look great. I have already mopped down and scrubbed with a yard brush the beams to remove the worst of years of ingrained dirt and have sealed them from underneath with a clear silicon sealant to prevent the shower of dust i used to get everytime someone walked upstairs. I was intending to now sand them back to the original blond oak, allowing the sawdust to settle into the cracks from above to to act as a flexible, perfectly tone-matched filler. I was looking to use the hard wax oil as the treatment so i can keep the feel of wood if using bare feet and as it easier to repair etc. so, the two questions 1. is it a good idea to use just a pure oil (not one with wax in) as a first coat so this penetrates deeper into the wood, and then apply the required coats of hard wax oil or will this cause issues? 2. will i need to tamp down the sawdust in the cracks regularly as i sand down so that this doesnt become a problem when applying the oils? thanks Alan
Alan, Thanks for getting in touch and this sounds like a really good project! Speaking candidly, adding a coat of a traditional oil, like a tung/linseed etc would merely just be adding more work for little benefit. The sawdust is an interesting one - I would recommend actually doing it slightly differently: If you could collect up as much of the dust as possible and what you can use is a mixing filler (for example bit.ly/37EaBbV). You just mix that with the sawdust and then fill the gaps with that. Once hardened you just give it a run over with the sander again to smooth it all off. I wouldn't recommend just using sanding dust as a filler, if the silicone underneath fails over time you will end up with a rather serious shower of dust, and also when you come to hoovering the rooms you will just pull that sanding dust up out of the gaps. If you have any other questions or need any guidance feel free to comment again or get in touch with our advice team (email: wood@finishes.direct or (+44)01303 477 555. Ben
Thank you for your question. Historically, bare wooden floors would have been treated with a traditional oil or wax. Danish oil or Teak oil would have been used depending on the species of wood. Bee wax was also mixed with paraffin or Turpentine to achieve a shinier, higher-build finish .
Was the mock up made of pine (bright) or a less bright wood like oak ? I ask ; because your mock up colour is lovely ( Mann’s Light Light Oak) but obviously it’ll be down to the colour of the bare wood x
Hi Joe, the floor mock-up's were made of oak. If you have a similar floor you're working on and want to stain, always best to do a test area somewhere out of the way to see what the look would be.
Thanks for the video but anyone who hasn’t tried the Blanchon Original Wood Environment is really missing a trick. Super quick drying between coats, dead easy to apply, smells nice when applying but no smell after and in my experience it’s really hard wearing. Best part of all is that patch repairs literally just involve a wipe with some more oil. Knocks Osmo for six in my view.
Really informative video. I'm looking to finish the hallway floor. The previous diamond hard varnish had worn away in the high traffic areas. What finish would you recommend please? Hard-oil wax or varnish? I'd like a matte or satin look.
Hey! Thanks for the comment! How long did the Diamond Hard Varnish last in your area before it wore away? Well before you refinish you will have to remove all diamond hard varnish from the area. And it really depends if you want a more "natural" feel with more regular maintenance or a finish that you can put down and forget about for 3-5 years depending on the traffic of the area! In terms of look, with these projects its so personal, i would recommend grabbing a hand full of samples, see what ones you like the look of and you enjoy using too. Thanks Ben
Need help! Long story short: My parquet was sanded down and far too much oil was put on it. (3x amount without wiping anything off) Leaving a coat of oil that would never dry. Now I'm attempting to sand off the oil, and just by using hand and paper , the floor indeed starts to look better, but the surface is not exactly smooth and perhaps it would take a very long time to do it. My question is therefore, in order to remove the oil by sanding the parquet. Can i do this by hand? And if so, what paper should I use. Or should I rent a buffer? And if so, what paper should I use for it? Thanks in advance
It's a good question. Oiled floors tend to have a more 'soaked in' appearance and the floor will feel softer if that makes sense! Also take your nail to it in a corner and see if you can scratch it. With a varnish or lacquer the floor will have more of a hard sealed appearance and feel. All of that said if you are wanting to refinish the floor, chances are you will need to sand back to get rid of any previous coatings and give you a new blank canvas to work on. You can then choose the finish you want depending on taste and traffic.
Don't think I'll ever varnish again. Oil all the way. Much much better finish. Oil penetrates Into wood and provided the wood is sanded nicely before, a great finish is a sure bet. Varnish although looks ok at first , doesn't last, and, after a while starts to look tired. With oil you can apply more after light sanding. Varnish is not so easy to go over again.
There are pros and cons to both options. Oils are easier to patch repair when scratched. A light sand and a top-up coat would be all that is required. Varnishes are tougher and last longer but if damaged they are almost impossible to patch repair. Please bear in mind that if you decide to varnish the floor, the oil will need to be completely sanded back to bare wood as varnish/lacquer will not adhere to an oiled surface.
Fantastic video bud, I'm in the process of laying some reclaimed oak flooring through out my down stairs and will hopefully be sanding soon. I think I prefer the look of the oil. Does you need to applies to the whole floor in one go or can it easily be blended if I have to stop and start in an area? Many thanks Steve
Hey Steve, Thanks for the kind words and glad I could help! Sounds like a fun project to get on-top of during the lockdown! Being candid it would always be better to do the whole room at once, but if you need to do it in steps clear oils are a lot more forgiving. Colour poses issues with overlaps in colour etc so be very wary. I hope this helps, if you have any other questions dont hesitate to get in touch via comment - or you can get in touch with our wood wizards by getting in touch here: bit.ly/2Ur7GPe or call on 01303 477555 Ben
Hey there, Yes I had stained these with the Manns Lightfast Stain in Light Oak (bit.ly/2TaatdD). The stains will have to be applied before any coat of clear oil. You wont need to stain before applying a Tinted Oil. If you need any other help or advice feel free to drop me a comment! Or get in contact with our Wood Wizards by contacting us on 01303 477 555 or bit.ly/2T0AZWq. Best of luck on your project! Ben
Hi Ben, helpful video thanks. I have a very large area of oak flooring to treat, the kitchen has already been varnished previously but is very tired, I am going to sand it down again and re-treat. I am considering oil but wonder if this will be okay in a kitchen or will any unnoticed spills of food and oil soak in and become a problem. Despite 3 coats of the varnish a few years ago it has not lasted. Also as it is such a large area and continues without break into other rooms I wont be able to treat all at once and assume varnishing at separate times would cause a ridge and so perhaps oil would be easier to blend at different times of application?
Hi, great video, really informative, thanks! Before you applied varnish to your floor you stained it but I am not sure if you also stained the floor before you applied the oil. Would I need to stain the floor in any way before applying oil? Thanks
Hey! Thanks for the comment, so you know, both the areas had a stain applied before finishing. I chose to do that so it would be a more like for like display when I show them at the end. This isn't a required step in the finishing of floors, just an aesthetic choice. You can get tinted oils that would eliminate the multi step staining process too. That is worth bearing in mind in terms of the application process. If you have any more questions dont hesitate to get in touch. Ben
i am building my new home,what do u recommend to treat and make my attic floor last longer.?i want it to be shiny and wanted the wood grains to be visible.
I feel like my parquet is kind of dry. The wood feel like its not shiny anymore and its getting dried.and I still cant decide what to apply. My parquet is not like wooden like your sample floor. I cant sand it .
A professional I got to sand and finish the wooden floors went with varnish. I didn't supervise him or ask him any questions assuming he would know best as it's what he does on a daily basis. Varnish begun scratching after a week, looks crappy. Once it scratches, that's it it's done for.. Can't understand why anyone would want a surface that scratches and is irreversible to repair, that varnish is considered an "option". You're sometimes just better to do some googling on chat forums by regular people for tips and just do the job yourself.
Nice vid. I've sanded the varnish from my parquet up to 120 but still have light scratches all around. Which of these finishes disguises scratches the most? Cheers
Hey! Happy new year! Thanks for commenting! Unfortunately, the only way to disguise scratches would be to sand until completely smooth - Parquet floors are nutritiously hard to handle so you shouldn't feel bad! I have found with parquet its always best to avoid going "diagonally" (with the direction of any of the grain) its best to go with one grit with the zigzags and with the next grit straight up. However, if you are going to head straight into finishing, any coloured finish is likely to get more pigment caught in the scratches and they will really show up. So bearing that in mind I would either recommend only using clear finishes - either a clear Hard Wax Oil or Varnish as per this video - and as every project is different, i would recommend grabbing samples and seeing what works best for you. Thank you! Ben
Fantastic video. Question: We have a cat and she likes to race around the floor sometimes and she leaves the odd scratch mark that can go through any stain. What would be the best option for us if we want darker floors?
Hi there, thanks for the question. Sand it back and start again with a dedicated woodstain and finish with a varnish for ultimate durability. Oils won't be durable enough to stand up to such wear and tear.
@@PsychedelicGoo Yes, as this will give a hard coat on the wood and will stop it getting scratched. Yes, varnish can get scratched too, but a tough product like Manns Extra Tough Floor Varnish is great for these areas and use. You can also use it with the Manns wood dyes and stains. Lots of info on the page here - www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/manns-extra-tough-floor-varnish Please give us a call if you need more help and advice. 01303 477555
With the Osmo Oil - can this be applied to a solid oak hardwood floor? The floor will be sanded as advised - is this all that is required before applying? Also, is a hardwax needing applied afterwards (probably a silly question but the tin doesn't say hardwax)? Thanks - great video BTW
Hi Steve, Osmo Polyx Oil (bit.ly/3bdm8AY) can indeed be used on solid oak hardwood floors as long as they are untreated. Properly sanding should be all you needed to do to your floor yes (obviously apart from trying a test area to make sure your'e happy with the look!) . It would only be exotic hardwoods that would need any more steps. There is no such thing as a silly question, can you confirm what osmo product you are using so i can better advise? Thanks for the complement Ben
Hi Janette, Thanks for the comment, is the decking new or previously finished boards? Are you based in the UK? If so you could contact our team to get some advice on products, if you want to send some photos and a rough description of what kind of look you want to achieve to evergreen@wood-finishes-direct.com we could give you a project rundown. Kindest regards, Ben
Hi - i am looking to protect my new oak handrail. I like the natural colour but want the best protection as we have three young children. What would you recommend please? Ideally looking for something easy to apply. Many Thanks
Hey Nottah, Thanks for the comment, firstly is it solid wood or veneer? Its worth noting if veneered, oils MAY cause de-lamination. This will be as a result of the solvents reacting with the glue that holds the veneer on. This is rare, but you would need to 1. get the lowdown from the manufacturer on what they recommend. 2. try test areas. But the advice covered in this video is pertinent - both offer great protection with different maintenance times. However, For ease of application, Hard Wax Oils for this project wins hands down, Especially around fiddly areas, just do ensure you apply thin and remove all excess. Id reccomend either Fiddes- goo.gl/fQZI7W or Osmo- goo.gl/gZQwPy these products also come in tinted and natural variations. It is worth noting, The banisters will require at-least yearly maintenance depending on wear but if this cycle is followed they will look amazing for years to come. Let me know if you need any more advice. Ben
Just read the full reply - thanks Ben - I'll order the oil - with it just being a handrail how would you apply as the applicator looks a bit big for the awkward areas - thanks again
Hey Notta, I would recommend using a natural bristle brush for your job - goo.gl/zEl2u6. And to remove the excess use a - goo.gl/4zT2sw and then denib using a - goo.gl/yrEw46. Do apply thinly and make sure you remove excess, also de-nibbing between coats will improve your finish too. For a bit more brush guidance you can watch this video here. th-cam.com/video/1nMjGywaw6o/w-d-xo.html. Let me know if you need any more advice. Ben
I’m goin to wax my new floor once I have applied the wax to the floor how do I get back to the start to wipe it off or do I just sections at a time and work towards the door
Hi John, Thanks for getting in touch. I normally recommend working in manageable areas, around 1m-2m square at a time. So apply to this area, wipe off excess and then move onto the next area. Ben
Hi Matt! Good question! P120 is a grit of sandpaper. Its best to work through the grits when sanding a floor - for example p40-p80-p120. Sanding floors is a tricky thing to do, Check out this link here: www.wood-finishes-direct.com/blog/fine-art-sanding-wood-floor-sanding-guide-part-1/?agent=youtube&custref=commentssanding. Hope that helps Ben
Can I please ask why I cannot just apply the varnish to the board that has oil on it as they are both oil based so the varnish should adhere. I realize if you sand the boards and then varnish them the appearance would be different but I am happy with the colour I just want a bit of sheen to the finish that is all.
I am sorry you feel this way Domenico - we are simply trying to help people understand the difference between finishes as there is so much conjecture and false truths out there in regards to finishing areas. Thanks for the feedback however, have a great day. Ben
What a calm and clear person
Hey!
Thanks for the kind comment.
Ben
Best video I've found showing the difference between the two. Thanks!
Thanks a lot Tom. Really glad it was helpful.
A really good presentation and totally waffle free.
Thank you Phillip!
This was super simple and super helpful, many thanks!
Thank you!
Im really glad it helped.
Ben
Best video ever!
Much thanks!
Going with oil.
Hi Ben, some great information, and enjoyed the comments and your answers, in great detail, and so useful.
Hello John, Glad you enjoyed it always happy to help.
Ben
HI Ben - great, clear and easy to follow video. I have a couple of questions (with an unfortunately long pre-amble ;-)) I am renovating an old french farmhouse. In the attic (which will be bedrooms) the flooring is huge 4-5 inche thick oak beams. These were water damaged due to a poor roof before i moved in so in places are very uneven on the top surface. From the bottom though you can see that this has not effected the integrity of the beams and they are all straight and look great. I have already mopped down and scrubbed with a yard brush the beams to remove the worst of years of ingrained dirt and have sealed them from underneath with a clear silicon sealant to prevent the shower of dust i used to get everytime someone walked upstairs. I was intending to now sand them back to the original blond oak, allowing the sawdust to settle into the cracks from above to to act as a flexible, perfectly tone-matched filler. I was looking to use the hard wax oil as the treatment so i can keep the feel of wood if using bare feet and as it easier to repair etc. so, the two questions
1. is it a good idea to use just a pure oil (not one with wax in) as a first coat so this penetrates deeper into the wood, and then apply the required coats of hard wax oil or will this cause issues?
2. will i need to tamp down the sawdust in the cracks regularly as i sand down so that this doesnt become a problem when applying the oils?
thanks
Alan
Alan,
Thanks for getting in touch and this sounds like a really good project!
Speaking candidly, adding a coat of a traditional oil, like a tung/linseed etc would merely just be adding more work for little benefit. The sawdust is an interesting one - I would recommend actually doing it slightly differently: If you could collect up as much of the dust as possible and what you can use is a mixing filler (for example bit.ly/37EaBbV). You just mix that with the sawdust and then fill the gaps with that. Once hardened you just give it a run over with the sander again to smooth it all off.
I wouldn't recommend just using sanding dust as a filler, if the silicone underneath fails over time you will end up with a rather serious shower of dust, and also when you come to hoovering the rooms you will just pull that sanding dust up out of the gaps.
If you have any other questions or need any guidance feel free to comment again or get in touch with our advice team (email: wood@finishes.direct or (+44)01303 477 555.
Ben
Hi Ben, youre so cute!! Thanks for helping me finish my floorboards x
Thanks Jazz!
Happy to help!
Ben
What did they finish the floors with back in the old days ? Nothing ? or some kind of oil ?
Thank you for your question. Historically, bare wooden floors would have been treated with a traditional oil or wax. Danish oil or Teak oil would have been used depending on the species of wood. Bee wax was also mixed with paraffin or Turpentine to achieve a shinier, higher-build finish .
Great job!
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks for that - very informative
No Problem! Glad you liked it.
Ben
Great video, thank you!
Glad you liked it!
Good stuff thank you, chilled dude
+Samsquantch Thanks Sam! Glad you liked the video!
Ben.
Wood Finishes Direct Ltd
Hi Patricia, Everything ok?
Extremely informative!!
Oil it will be! Thank you !
Good VDO thanks mate
No problem 👍 Glad you enjoyed it. Don't forget to subscribe for future content.
Jay
thank you great info
Was the mock up made of pine (bright) or a less bright wood like oak ?
I ask ; because your mock up colour is lovely ( Mann’s Light Light Oak) but obviously it’ll be down to the colour of the bare wood x
Hi Joe, the floor mock-up's were made of oak. If you have a similar floor you're working on and want to stain, always best to do a test area somewhere out of the way to see what the look would be.
Thanks for the video but anyone who hasn’t tried the Blanchon Original Wood Environment is really missing a trick. Super quick drying between coats, dead easy to apply, smells nice when applying but no smell after and in my experience it’s really hard wearing. Best part of all is that patch repairs literally just involve a wipe with some more oil. Knocks Osmo for six in my view.
Really informative video.
I'm looking to finish the hallway floor. The previous diamond hard varnish had worn away in the high traffic areas. What finish would you recommend please? Hard-oil wax or varnish?
I'd like a matte or satin look.
Hey!
Thanks for the comment! How long did the Diamond Hard Varnish last in your area before it wore away?
Well before you refinish you will have to remove all diamond hard varnish from the area. And it really depends if you want a more "natural" feel with more regular maintenance or a finish that you can put down and forget about for 3-5 years depending on the traffic of the area!
In terms of look, with these projects its so personal, i would recommend grabbing a hand full of samples, see what ones you like the look of and you enjoy using too.
Thanks
Ben
Need
help!
Long story short: My parquet was sanded down and far too much oil was put on it. (3x amount without wiping anything off) Leaving a coat of oil that would never dry.
Now I'm attempting to sand off the oil, and just by using hand and paper , the floor indeed starts to look better, but the surface is not exactly smooth and perhaps it would take a very long time to do it.
My question is therefore, in order to remove the oil by sanding the parquet. Can i do this by hand? And if so, what paper should I use. Or should I rent a buffer? And if so, what paper should I use for it?
Thanks in advance
Really useful thanks :)
+Justin Harrold Cheers Justin, glad it helped, if you need any more help or advice give us an email on wood@finishes.direct!
Ben
I just bought an old house with hardwood floor and I would like to refinish it. How do I know if my
hardwood floor has oil or varnish?
It's a good question. Oiled floors tend to have a more 'soaked in' appearance and the floor will feel softer if that makes sense! Also take your nail to it in a corner and see if you can scratch it. With a varnish or lacquer the floor will have more of a hard sealed appearance and feel.
All of that said if you are wanting to refinish the floor, chances are you will need to sand back to get rid of any previous coatings and give you a new blank canvas to work on. You can then choose the finish you want depending on taste and traffic.
great knowledge
Hi Ben could you do a video on whitewashing floors many thanks
If only my floor was that big
Don't think I'll ever varnish again. Oil all the way. Much much better finish. Oil penetrates Into wood and provided the wood is sanded nicely before, a great finish is a sure bet. Varnish although looks ok at first , doesn't last, and, after a while starts to look tired. With oil you can apply more after light sanding. Varnish is not so easy to go over again.
Thanks a lot Ben. thats just what i needed. do i need to use a base coat for Polyx-oil? that will be great help.
Great video. I have oiled engineered flooring. But needs treating. What would be best. I have dogs, and it seems to be a nightmare for scratches.
There are pros and cons to both options. Oils are easier to patch repair when scratched. A light sand and a top-up coat would be all that is required. Varnishes are tougher and last longer but if damaged they are almost impossible to patch repair. Please bear in mind that if you decide to varnish the floor, the oil will need to be completely sanded back to bare wood as varnish/lacquer will not adhere to an oiled surface.
Fantastic video bud, I'm in the process of laying some reclaimed oak flooring through out my down stairs and will hopefully be sanding soon. I think I prefer the look of the oil. Does you need to applies to the whole floor in one go or can it easily be blended if I have to stop and start in an area?
Many thanks Steve
Hey Steve,
Thanks for the kind words and glad I could help! Sounds like a fun project to get on-top of during the lockdown!
Being candid it would always be better to do the whole room at once, but if you need to do it in steps clear oils are a lot more forgiving. Colour poses issues with overlaps in colour etc so be very wary.
I hope this helps, if you have any other questions dont hesitate to get in touch via comment - or you can get in touch with our wood wizards by getting in touch here: bit.ly/2Ur7GPe or call on 01303 477555
Ben
Can a oiled floor be stained first? And if so, if starting with bare would, do you recommend a coat of oil before staining also? Thank you!
Hey there,
Yes I had stained these with the Manns Lightfast Stain in Light Oak (bit.ly/2TaatdD).
The stains will have to be applied before any coat of clear oil. You wont need to stain before applying a Tinted Oil.
If you need any other help or advice feel free to drop me a comment! Or get in contact with our Wood Wizards by contacting us on 01303 477 555 or bit.ly/2T0AZWq.
Best of luck on your project!
Ben
Hi Ben, helpful video thanks. I have a very large area of oak flooring to treat, the kitchen has already been varnished previously but is very tired, I am going to sand it down again and re-treat. I am considering oil but wonder if this will be okay in a kitchen or will any unnoticed spills of food and oil soak in and become a problem. Despite 3 coats of the varnish a few years ago it has not lasted.
Also as it is such a large area and continues without break into other rooms I wont be able to treat all at once and assume varnishing at separate times would cause a ridge and so perhaps oil would be easier to blend at different times of application?
Hi, great video, really informative, thanks! Before you applied varnish to your floor you stained it but I am not sure if you also stained the floor before you applied the oil. Would I need to stain the floor in any way before applying oil? Thanks
Hey!
Thanks for the comment, so you know, both the areas had a stain applied before finishing. I chose to do that so it would be a more like for like display when I show them at the end. This isn't a required step in the finishing of floors, just an aesthetic choice.
You can get tinted oils that would eliminate the multi step staining process too. That is worth bearing in mind in terms of the application process.
If you have any more questions dont hesitate to get in touch.
Ben
i am building my new home,what do u recommend to treat and make my attic floor last longer.?i want it to be shiny and wanted the wood grains to be visible.
Use a stain colour 😊
I feel like my parquet is kind of dry. The wood feel like its not shiny anymore and its getting dried.and I still cant decide what to apply. My parquet is not like wooden like your sample floor. I cant sand it .
A professional I got to sand and finish the wooden floors went with varnish. I didn't supervise him or ask him any questions assuming he would know best as it's what he does on a daily basis. Varnish begun scratching after a week, looks crappy. Once it scratches, that's it it's done for.. Can't understand why anyone would want a surface that scratches and is irreversible to repair, that varnish is considered an "option". You're sometimes just better to do some googling on chat forums by regular people for tips and just do the job yourself.
Nice vid. I've sanded the varnish from my parquet up to 120 but still have light scratches all around. Which of these finishes disguises scratches the most? Cheers
Hey!
Happy new year!
Thanks for commenting! Unfortunately, the only way to disguise scratches would be to sand until completely smooth - Parquet floors are nutritiously hard to handle so you shouldn't feel bad! I have found with parquet its always best to avoid going "diagonally" (with the direction of any of the grain) its best to go with one grit with the zigzags and with the next grit straight up.
However, if you are going to head straight into finishing, any coloured finish is likely to get more pigment caught in the scratches and they will really show up. So bearing that in mind I would either recommend only using clear finishes - either a clear Hard Wax Oil or Varnish as per this video - and as every project is different, i would recommend grabbing samples and seeing what works best for you.
Thank you!
Ben
Fantastic video. Question: We have a cat and she likes to race around the floor sometimes and she leaves the odd scratch mark that can go through any stain. What would be the best option for us if we want darker floors?
Hi there, thanks for the question.
Sand it back and start again with a dedicated woodstain and finish with a varnish for ultimate durability. Oils won't be durable enough to stand up to such wear and tear.
@@WoodFinishesDirect thanks for your answer. Would you recommend a varnish for durability?
@@PsychedelicGoo Yes, as this will give a hard coat on the wood and will stop it getting scratched. Yes, varnish can get scratched too, but a tough product like Manns Extra Tough Floor Varnish is great for these areas and use. You can also use it with the Manns wood dyes and stains. Lots of info on the page here - www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/manns-extra-tough-floor-varnish
Please give us a call if you need more help and advice. 01303 477555
@@WoodFinishesDirect Thanks very much.
What do you call that thing he's using to apply it?
What is the proper name of that tool?
A Padco snappy applicator
With the Osmo Oil - can this be applied to a solid oak hardwood floor?
The floor will be sanded as advised - is this all that is required before applying?
Also, is a hardwax needing applied afterwards (probably a silly question but the tin doesn't say hardwax)?
Thanks - great video BTW
Hi Steve,
Osmo Polyx Oil (bit.ly/3bdm8AY) can indeed be used on solid oak hardwood floors as long as they are untreated. Properly sanding should be all you needed to do to your floor yes (obviously apart from trying a test area to make sure your'e happy with the look!) . It would only be exotic hardwoods that would need any more steps.
There is no such thing as a silly question, can you confirm what osmo product you are using so i can better advise?
Thanks for the complement
Ben
What would you recommend for outdoor decking
Thanks
Hi Janette,
Thanks for the comment, is the decking new or previously finished boards?
Are you based in the UK?
If so you could contact our team to get some advice on products, if you want to send some photos and a rough description of what kind of look you want to achieve to evergreen@wood-finishes-direct.com we could give you a project rundown.
Kindest regards,
Ben
Hi - i am looking to protect my new oak handrail. I like the natural colour but want the best protection as we have three young children. What would you recommend please? Ideally looking for something easy to apply. Many Thanks
Hey Nottah,
Thanks for the comment, firstly is it solid wood or veneer?
Its worth noting if veneered, oils MAY cause de-lamination. This will be as a result of the solvents reacting with the glue that holds the veneer on. This is rare, but you would need to 1. get the lowdown from the manufacturer on what they recommend. 2. try test areas.
But the advice covered in this video is pertinent - both offer great protection with different maintenance times. However, For ease of application, Hard Wax Oils for this project wins hands down, Especially around fiddly areas, just do ensure you apply thin and remove all excess. Id reccomend either Fiddes- goo.gl/fQZI7W or Osmo- goo.gl/gZQwPy these products also come in tinted and natural variations. It is worth noting, The banisters will require at-least yearly maintenance depending on wear but if this cycle is followed they will look amazing for years to come.
Let me know if you need any more advice.
Ben
Just read the full reply - thanks Ben - I'll order the oil - with it just being a handrail how would you apply as the applicator looks a bit big for the awkward areas - thanks again
Hey Notta,
I would recommend using a natural bristle brush for your job - goo.gl/zEl2u6. And to remove the excess use a - goo.gl/4zT2sw and then denib using a - goo.gl/yrEw46.
Do apply thinly and make sure you remove excess, also de-nibbing between coats will improve your finish too.
For a bit more brush guidance you can watch this video here. th-cam.com/video/1nMjGywaw6o/w-d-xo.html.
Let me know if you need any more advice.
Ben
I’m goin to wax my new floor once I have applied the wax to the floor how do I get back to the start to wipe it off or do I just sections at a time and work towards the door
Hi John,
Thanks for getting in touch. I normally recommend working in manageable areas, around 1m-2m square at a time. So apply to this area, wipe off excess and then move onto the next area.
Ben
John Jackson how can I make my
How can I shine My wooden floor
Hi what does sanding to a P120 minimum mean, thanks, Matt
Hi Matt!
Good question! P120 is a grit of sandpaper. Its best to work through the grits when sanding a floor - for example p40-p80-p120. Sanding floors is a tricky thing to do, Check out this link here: www.wood-finishes-direct.com/blog/fine-art-sanding-wood-floor-sanding-guide-part-1/?agent=youtube&custref=commentssanding.
Hope that helps
Ben
Hi I have purchased an oil oak engineered floor and laid it . Can I apply a couple of coats of varnish as this is what I would prefer
Hi Paul,
Thanks for the comment, If the wood is oiled, you would have to remove the oil before applying any varnish.
Can I please ask why I cannot just apply the varnish to the board that has oil on it as they are both oil based so the varnish should adhere. I realize if you sand the boards and then varnish them the appearance would be different but I am happy with the colour I just want a bit of sheen to the finish that is all.
Brill vid
Thank you Joe
sadolin pv67
Thanks Ramsay Bolton.
Oil every time.
get a haircut
what a load of rubbish, like them silly planks represents a floor , apron gloves (yer right) do us a favor and do a proper floor !!
I am sorry you feel this way Domenico - we are simply trying to help people understand the difference between finishes as there is so much conjecture and false truths out there in regards to finishing areas.
Thanks for the feedback however, have a great day.
Ben
what a bellend...you haven't said what is wrong with the video? The dude is trying to give homeowners some solid information and advice.