Excellent video with expert explanations. Just out of interest, I've been using one of those button washers in my kitchen tap and it lasted me about 4 years, before that some plumbers that were here put in lesser standard ones for a considerable amount of money and they did not last as long as the one I put in myself. I'm just about to change it now, as I believe I may have tightened it off too hard today and that was the end of it-actually, I believe someone interfered with the water pressure and made it slightly higher for the whole building, as when I turned off my mains and bled my other taps I still had water coming from those bled taps despite my stopcock being off, and this was the reason I was stronger with turning the kitchen tap off too tight. I fortunately found another new button washer and put it in, it works ok, but seems as I said, someone interfered with the outside water pressure, as when I turn the tap off the water stops but forces some water near the base of the tap to come out. I also did a reseat with a reseating tool. Thanks again.
Hello, yes re-seating is the key and make sure to flush all the swarf out before putting in the new washer. Don't do the re seating there is only a certain amount of seat that can be shaved off. Good luck 😊👍
Thanks. Besides being a "better quality", what advantages does brass washer provides compared to the nylon one? Provided the washer seal which comes in contact with the seat is the same material, that is being rubber? When they say the brass washer lasts longer, it's not true though... as the seal, which is usually the part that wears out, is the same material (being rubber) on the nylon or brass washer... Thanks!
Thanks Nik. Depending on the seat condition will depend on the type of washer you should use! Also not all tap washers are made from the same materials! There are plenty of different washers on market today they all have a different use, horses for courses 😊🎅🏻🎅🏻
@@MayfairPlumbingandGasfitting thanks for your reply... I realise my question was horribly confusing as I haven't used the correct names for each part of the washer anatomy. I will try to edit to make it clearer!
@@MayfairPlumbingandGasfitting yeah! take a look. It's a very subtle thing. and we all spend time and energy on this minute repair which is so vital. The Rubber gives way first, which leads to a stream that eventually erodes a groove into the pipe (like the grand canyon in geography). Get good polymer rubber, and end the trouble. IIR stands for Isobutylene Isoprene rubber. FKM fluorinated cross linked rubber. IIR has better oxygen and water resistance than even regulare EPDM rubber......it's science.
@@MayfairPlumbingandGasfitting all good. I ended up re-seating it which didn't help. Turns out the plumbing was 40 years old and a soldered joint failed causing an internal leak. Had to jackhammer the concrete wall and replace the whole shower steam. Absolute nightmare!
so el cheapo is good enough. bit drippy?: dome. can't fix it?: reseating is needed but all perfect? then stick in a hydroseal. he doesn't bother to tell about seat inserts: new thread new seat th-cam.com/video/4Hb2SfYBo2M/w-d-xo.html push in new seat th-cam.com/video/KftL7SKaLAw/w-d-xo.html
@@MayfairPlumbingandGasfitting Yep, thanks. Recent job grinding down the seat seems to have solved things for now. Very interesting to see how a fine crooked hairline 'crack' seems to have widened out to maybe a 1/32" ( or even bigger, hard to judge ) channel across the seat. Learned something there. That must be because of ferocious 'spurting' of water under our pretty high mains pressure. But it spurts into the breech and only drips out from there. So to us on the outside it looks like an annoying but fairly harmless low pressure drip. But inside there the seat is being torn away. Moral of the story: don't allow any drips! (I guess). I didn't use the inserts I've got. I've very cautious. I don't know what I'm worrying about but lacking calls from all around to say 'they're good, go for it..' I don't if I don't need and like I say, seems I don't need as yet. I think I worry about what happens next if I put that in and it doesn't work? And how can it work if there's an imperfection in the seat? The water will work its way up and avoid the washer seal entirely won't it? We'll be back where we started. For the insert sits on the seat and they say to make it good. But if it's good why do I need the insert? Well the insert I suppose makes a seal between itself and the seat ideally and it can handle some imperfection. They say 'make it good' but at the same time they're selling them to handle imperfect seals. Bit of a mystery what's going on. Thought you guys might know. Interested to hear you haven't had much luck with them. So you've tried them? Tell about it...
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Thanks Mate for explaining this so well. Highly appreciated this
No worries
Super informative and helpful mate. Really appreciated this
No worries
Excellent video with expert explanations. Just out of interest, I've been using one of those button washers in my kitchen tap and it lasted me about 4 years, before that some plumbers that were here put in lesser standard ones for a considerable amount of money and they did not last as long as the one I put in myself. I'm just about to change it now, as I believe I may have tightened it off too hard today and that was the end of it-actually, I believe someone interfered with the water pressure and made it slightly higher for the whole building, as when I turned off my mains and bled my other taps I still had water coming from those bled taps despite my stopcock being off, and this was the reason I was stronger with turning the kitchen tap off too tight.
I fortunately found another new button washer and put it in, it works ok, but seems as I said, someone interfered with the outside water pressure, as when I turn the tap off the water stops but forces some water near the base of the tap to come out. I also did a reseat with a reseating tool. Thanks again.
Hello, yes re-seating is the key and make sure to flush all the swarf out before putting in the new washer. Don't do the re seating there is only a certain amount of seat that can be shaved off.
Good luck 😊👍
@@MayfairPlumbingandGasfitting Thanks very much, I appreciate the time you took to reply.
No worries have a good day mate
@@Equalizer5
Great help! 🙂
Thanks
That’s a great video. I’m an apprentice and asked my supervisor about washer types and he grunted and walked off and didn’t explain anything
Thanks very much! Have a nice night mate 😊
@@MayfairPlumbingandGasfitting wish I had an employer like you who explained things
that grunt is to HIDE that you are more intelligent!
Thanks informative video 👍 (wish you were in Sydney)
Thanks and have a nice day
An informative video. Is the material or type for the washer for HOT shower Taps a special one because of the heat
?
Found the cheap ones don't cut it - last one didn't even seal, had more luck with the green Enduraseal ones.
Cheers
Hi, can I use any washer for my washing machine taps, are they all the same size. Thanks for the video
Hello Len, there is a 50/50 chance, they can be different sizes
@@MayfairPlumbingandGasfitting
thank you
@@len6824 hope you have a nice day mate
Thanks
Your welcome
Thanks.
Besides being a "better quality", what advantages does brass washer provides compared to the nylon one?
Provided the washer seal which comes in contact with the seat is the same material, that is being rubber?
When they say the brass washer lasts longer, it's not true though... as the seal, which is usually the part that wears out, is the same material (being rubber) on the nylon or brass washer...
Thanks!
Thanks Nik.
Depending on the seat condition will depend on the type of washer you should use! Also not all tap washers are made from the same materials! There are plenty of different washers on market today they all have a different use, horses for courses 😊🎅🏻🎅🏻
@@MayfairPlumbingandGasfitting thanks for your reply... I realise my question was horribly confusing as I haven't used the correct names for each part of the washer anatomy.
I will try to edit to make it clearer!
edited the question!
what about colour, in the old day black and red were for hot and cold...?
Not anymore they are universal 👌🏻
what about IIR rubber washers? or FKM (Fluorinated) rubber washers? they should provide more resilience to erosion?
I haven’t heard of them to be honest!
@@MayfairPlumbingandGasfitting yeah! take a look. It's a very subtle thing. and we all spend time and energy on this minute repair which is so vital. The Rubber gives way first, which leads to a stream that eventually erodes a groove into the pipe (like the grand canyon in geography). Get good polymer rubber, and end the trouble. IIR stands for Isobutylene Isoprene rubber. FKM fluorinated cross linked rubber. IIR has better oxygen and water resistance than even regulare EPDM rubber......it's science.
I pulled a 13mm washer out of 12mm tap. No idea how to get a new 13mm in there. A 12mm washer will not stop the leak. It has a new seat in it too.
Hi,
Sorry for the late reply, it could need re-seating??
@@MayfairPlumbingandGasfitting all good. I ended up re-seating it which didn't help. Turns out the plumbing was 40 years old and a soldered joint failed causing an internal leak. Had to jackhammer the concrete wall and replace the whole shower steam. Absolute nightmare!
@@domlipski5226 omg! Wow thats a huge job, yikes 😦
so el cheapo is good enough. bit drippy?: dome. can't fix it?: reseating is needed
but all perfect? then stick in a hydroseal.
he doesn't bother to tell about seat inserts:
new thread new seat
th-cam.com/video/4Hb2SfYBo2M/w-d-xo.html
push in new seat
th-cam.com/video/KftL7SKaLAw/w-d-xo.html
Sorry haven't had much such success with inserts hence we don't recommend them. Good luck with your DIY plumbing jobs 😊.
@@MayfairPlumbingandGasfitting Yep, thanks. Recent job grinding down the seat seems to have solved things for now. Very interesting to see how a fine crooked hairline 'crack' seems to have widened out to maybe a 1/32" ( or even bigger, hard to judge ) channel across the seat. Learned something there. That must be because of ferocious 'spurting' of water under our pretty high mains pressure. But it spurts into the breech and only drips out from there. So to us on the outside it looks like an annoying but fairly harmless low pressure drip.
But inside there the seat is being torn away. Moral of the story: don't allow any drips! (I guess).
I didn't use the inserts I've got. I've very cautious. I don't know what I'm worrying about but lacking calls from all around to say 'they're good, go for it..' I don't if I don't need and like I say, seems I don't need as yet.
I think I worry about what happens next if I put that in and it doesn't work?
And how can it work if there's an imperfection in the seat? The water will work its way up and avoid the washer seal entirely won't it? We'll be back where we started. For the insert sits on the seat and they say to make it good. But if it's good why do I need the insert?
Well the insert I suppose makes a seal between itself and the seat ideally and it can handle some imperfection. They say 'make it good' but at the same time they're selling them to handle imperfect seals. Bit of a mystery what's going on. Thought you guys might know. Interested to hear you haven't had much luck with them. So you've tried them? Tell about it...
Plastic should be banned in pluming!