You should do a new plate for the lathe where you don't use those two angle iron pieces rather a four jaw style one. In older lathes, such a thing existed. It was constituted of a plate, like yours, four squares that were affixed to the plate at various points to accommodate different sizes (think IKEA pin shelf style but with screws), and the adjustable mechanism itself. Through the square two fine pitch screws where passed such that they were pointed towards the center of the plate, they were placed in line, one in the back, one in the front. The ends of the screws were fitted with square head for a key to adjust the depth at which they went to grab the part, and on to the business end, there was a plate that caught both of those screw similar to how the swivel plate on a C clamp fits, but, without the ball end. It was a loose fit on a T slot. Those plates had teeth in them, but could be changed to finer or larger pitch for various parts. That, IMO, is a better design, and a simple one at that. It can be scaled to your work, just as easily it could be used to swing 500 kilo or more weights (the plate itself was, when stood on the ground, as large as half a man's height, just passing over the height of the lathe it was used on. I would give pictures, but i can't find them anymore. But if anyone has visited the engineering museums in Germany, particularly West of the Berlin line, maybe they can provide some.
1. You will not get a piece back into a 3 jaw chuck concentric with the previous turning you have already done in a brand new chuck in a well manufactured lathe. You should do all concentric operations in one go. Otherwise you use a 4 jaw chuck and a dial test indicator (I will be posting a video about this when I've rebuilt my PAZ 1 diesel engine. Also when I am parting off a piece (albeit one I want to keep) fro something with a hole in it, I always put a thin rod in the chuck to catch it when it falls.
Two big pluses: (1) you are making this thing by the book (2) you are making it in metric. At last! It is interesting to see how the ram-yoke linkage works, I couldn't figure it out from the book.
+Juan Rivero 1 and 2 are mutually exclusive. ;) i love metric for sizing parts and cutting length also for fastners. I cant get off the shelf pulleys, shaft collars, or metal stock locally. I will keep doing what i can.
+HomeDistiller thanks. ill try to do some experiments soon to determine if it is lost foam related or normal desolved hydrogen related. My bet is on hydrogen. I am not happy with my degassing process. Expect to see more castings with these inclusions until i get to my permanent shop. Thanks for following the project.
Makercise have you tried pool chlorine tablets? Also I found making sure you have a reducing atmosphere in the foundry helps allot too (you should see no flame exiting the top of the foundry, a large excess of air)
This machine is going to wear out pretty fast isn't it..?....Porous soft white metal with mild steel sliding faces..?...Im talking about the main ram which is usually on a Dovetail slide. Apart from the increase in temperature required, is there any reason why you didn't use Cast Iron..? Machines are made from Cast Iron for a very good reason. Admire your hand skills and determination, but Im sure you could use more appropriate materials to make this machine from.
You are right. Cast iron is a much more preferable material for a machine tool. As in the case of the lathe I made from scratch, I expect the shaper will wear much more quickly than a commercial machine. Aluminum is much more accessible for casting in the home foundry. I do plan to eventually begin casting iron, but in the meantime I'm following the Gingery series of books.
have you ever tried melting and casting iron by yourself, on a makeshift furnace ? Cast iron is exceedingly heavy, and must be heated to much higher temperatures than aluminum to be properly cast. While it doesn't often suffer from voids and porosity like aluminum does, a simple casting like the side panels could weigh in excess of 40lbs. Try swinging 40lbs of molten metal on the end of a 3 foot pouring tong, it's gonna feel like it's 100 lbs. Not to speak of the increased cost of melting and the added risk. Also it's not like this dude will use the shaper more than once a month, at best, before simply abandoning it to the empire of dirt. It'll hold up just fine.
Rafael Monteiro Rodrigues when using iron the foundry uses a little wheeled cart thing to carry a small amount. Large amounts are on cranes. You just set up more. Cast does not have the hydrogen bubbles causing inclusions but iron has a completely different set of problems. Nothing that can’t be over come.
+Rob Mckennie you are right. I should have used the dial before i unbolted the angle clamp. I used the dial after, but it is an exercise in futility with my setup. The back of the faceplate is rough cast so moving the clamps around on the faceplate is extremely finicky. Live and learn.
I don't want to seem to be a jerk, but Gingery's book is considered a troll in the metalworking world. You said "but this is what the book calls out", which is precisely why it's making people cringe. I've seen some really useful machine tools built from engine blocks and such, if you want a budget lathe or mill, using an engine block as a base is a really good direction. I *know* that this is part learning experience for you, and part of it is trying to create original content for your channel. _However_ if you really want to make stuff, spend $1500 on a decent oldish lathe and use that. A simple wiggler rod in the tailstock chuck and centered on the part would have gone miles towards getting the part centered without a lot of drama.
I realize you're probably a professional machinist who sneers at efforts like this, but the whole point behind the Gingery books is to show a way to do machining WITHOUT spending $1500 on a surplus machine tool. Many of us non-professionals don't have that kind of money to spend, and it's a source of pride to point to a finished Gingery style machine and be able to say "I built that from scratch!" While they're not suitable for a production shop, they're quite capable of very respectable accuracy if built carefully.
Adding to the above comment, you'd be hard pressed to find a lathe of a decent size for anywhere near $1500. I really want to make stuff but I have neither the money nor the space for an industrial lathe, so this is the best I got until I can spend several thousand a year paying property taxes on a place to put my $1500 lathe.
Would make a huge difference if it was mainly constructed of cast iron. I'm planning on building a lathe from scratch aswell, though I'm following more along the lines of fundamentals of mechanical accuracy. I'm lucky enough to have a professional casting shop near by so I'll use them for the dangerous stuff. Though this series has given me some new ideas
These machines/projects are just so cool to me lol. I lo e every last bit of this stuff.
don't you just love the ingenuity of the whitworth quick return linkage, saved alot of time and money back when the shaper was king!
I really like your video. I'm building micro Gingery lathe and your video helps a lot. Please keep uploading!
You must be Yoking, another shaper video? Love it! I bought the books because of your channel. Interesting reading.
I love this build. Can't wait to see the chips fly....
Best Matt
G'day Cressel, nice work, well done. I'm enjoying the build, it's shaping up nicely. Keep up the good work, Peter
Instructive and inspirational as always. Bring on the next episode!
Very nice work, very interesting to see what can be accomplished with home brew items. thank you
Thanks for staying with the book. Its a challenge of will not of money.
All things considered, I think you're doing an awesome job. Good on you.
Regards Mark in the UK
Is this all made out of cast Aluminum? Would that not be too soft and light for a precision piece of machinery like this?
You should do a new plate for the lathe where you don't use those two angle iron pieces rather a four jaw style one. In older lathes, such a thing existed. It was constituted of a plate, like yours, four squares that were affixed to the plate at various points to accommodate different sizes (think IKEA pin shelf style but with screws), and the adjustable mechanism itself. Through the square two fine pitch screws where passed such that they were pointed towards the center of the plate, they were placed in line, one in the back, one in the front.
The ends of the screws were fitted with square head for a key to adjust the depth at which they went to grab the part, and on to the business end, there was a plate that caught both of those screw similar to how the swivel plate on a C clamp fits, but, without the ball end. It was a loose fit on a T slot. Those plates had teeth in them, but could be changed to finer or larger pitch for various parts.
That, IMO, is a better design, and a simple one at that. It can be scaled to your work, just as easily it could be used to swing 500 kilo or more weights (the plate itself was, when stood on the ground, as large as half a man's height, just passing over the height of the lathe it was used on. I would give pictures, but i can't find them anymore. But if anyone has visited the engineering museums in Germany, particularly West of the Berlin line, maybe they can provide some.
Book 6 has plans for a small 4 jaw chuck. I will probably make one after the shaper is done.
1. You will not get a piece back into a 3 jaw chuck concentric with the previous turning you have already done in a brand new chuck in a well manufactured lathe. You should do all concentric operations in one go. Otherwise you use a 4 jaw chuck and a dial test indicator (I will be posting a video about this when I've rebuilt my PAZ 1 diesel engine.
Also when I am parting off a piece (albeit one I want to keep) fro something with a hole in it, I always put a thin rod in the chuck to catch it when it falls.
Have we got clearance Clarence?
always awesome man! looking forward to more!
Nice build
IT MOVES!!!! nice work man!
Dios te. Bendiga.
I guess I am quite randomly asking but do anyone know a good place to watch newly released series online?
@Christopher Vincenzo I watch on Flixzone. Just google for it :)
I think that Loctite is in order for final assembly.
Two big pluses: (1) you are making this thing by the book (2) you are making it in metric. At last! It is interesting to see how the ram-yoke linkage works, I couldn't figure it out from the book.
+Juan Rivero 1 and 2 are mutually exclusive. ;) i love metric for sizing parts and cutting length also for fastners. I cant get off the shelf pulleys, shaft collars, or metal stock locally. I will keep doing what i can.
Look on the left side. There is a stink bug hanging out on the upright next to his arm. Cool .
Amazing
his work !!!!
Is this old footage? if not how do you find time to do this stuff with the house and all?
Looking good man!
Vc é simplesmente genial
Obrigado por compartilhar com s gente
Obrigado pelo elogio. Estou feliz em compartilhar os vídeos.
the tapping drill size for m6x1 is 5mm not 5.5mm, just deduct the pitch from the diameter to get your drill size.
+William Anderson I used the littlemachineshop tap chart. They list a different drill for steel versus aluminum.
Witam ponownie obserwuję Twoje pomysły są genialne proste da się co nieco zrobić na twoich maszynach pozdrawiam z Polski
good job! but its clear that my concern with lost foam casting is true.. you seem to have a lot of inclusions in the castings
+HomeDistiller thanks. ill try to do some experiments soon to determine if it is lost foam related or normal desolved hydrogen related. My bet is on hydrogen. I am not happy with my degassing process. Expect to see more castings with these inclusions until i get to my permanent shop. Thanks for following the project.
Makercise have you tried pool chlorine tablets? Also I found making sure you have a reducing atmosphere in the foundry helps allot too (you should see no flame exiting the top of the foundry, a large excess of air)
You need a dial indicator to help you line it back up
Chris Anderson @3:04 right side behind the tailstock. Its just too finicky with the crappy faceplate to get closer than 5 or 10.
Awesome! Congrats! And make a chuck ;-)
Probably would have had better result using the tailstock dead center to re-alighn the part for boring.
Is the material aluminum?
Edrei yes
This machine is going to wear out pretty fast isn't it..?....Porous soft white metal with mild steel sliding faces..?...Im talking about the main ram which is usually on a Dovetail slide.
Apart from the increase in temperature required, is there any reason why you didn't use Cast Iron..? Machines are made from Cast Iron for a very good reason. Admire your hand skills and determination, but Im sure you could use more appropriate materials to make this machine from.
You are right. Cast iron is a much more preferable material for a machine tool. As in the case of the lathe I made from scratch, I expect the shaper will wear much more quickly than a commercial machine. Aluminum is much more accessible for casting in the home foundry. I do plan to eventually begin casting iron, but in the meantime I'm following the Gingery series of books.
have you ever tried melting and casting iron by yourself, on a makeshift furnace ? Cast iron is exceedingly heavy, and must be heated to much higher temperatures than aluminum to be properly cast. While it doesn't often suffer from voids and porosity like aluminum does, a simple casting like the side panels could weigh in excess of 40lbs. Try swinging 40lbs of molten metal on the end of a 3 foot pouring tong, it's gonna feel like it's 100 lbs. Not to speak of the increased cost of melting and the added risk. Also it's not like this dude will use the shaper more than once a month, at best, before simply abandoning it to the empire of dirt. It'll hold up just fine.
Rafael Monteiro Rodrigues when using iron the foundry uses a little wheeled cart thing to carry a small amount. Large amounts are on cranes. You just set up more. Cast does not have the hydrogen bubbles causing inclusions but iron has a completely different set of problems. Nothing that can’t be over come.
Как же тебе брат фрезерного станка не хватает.
1:40 That bar stock is bugging out...
Some people might be yelling "get a chuck" i'm just yelling "get a dial indicator!"
Rob Mckennie @3:04 right side behind the tailstock.
right, so the best tool for centering the work was a drill bit, or?
+Rob Mckennie you are right. I should have used the dial before i unbolted the angle clamp. I used the dial after, but it is an exercise in futility with my setup. The back of the faceplate is rough cast so moving the clamps around on the faceplate is extremely finicky. Live and learn.
our porosity problems may be due to high pouring temperate. It bothers me $^&**^&)(*&.
That lathe looks soo not precise and rigid.
Spirt
sand aluminium on grinder stones can make them explode stones suck aluminium into stone
I don't want to seem to be a jerk, but Gingery's book is considered a troll in the metalworking world. You said "but this is what the book calls out", which is precisely why it's making people cringe. I've seen some really useful machine tools built from engine blocks and such, if you want a budget lathe or mill, using an engine block as a base is a really good direction. I *know* that this is part learning experience for you, and part of it is trying to create original content for your channel. _However_ if you really want to make stuff, spend $1500 on a decent oldish lathe and use that. A simple wiggler rod in the tailstock chuck and centered on the part would have gone miles towards getting the part centered without a lot of drama.
I realize you're probably a professional machinist who sneers at efforts like this, but the whole point behind the Gingery books is to show a way to do machining WITHOUT spending $1500 on a surplus machine tool. Many of us non-professionals don't have that kind of money to spend, and it's a source of pride to point to a finished Gingery style machine and be able to say "I built that from scratch!" While they're not suitable for a production shop, they're quite capable of very respectable accuracy if built carefully.
Adding to the above comment, you'd be hard pressed to find a lathe of a decent size for anywhere near $1500.
I really want to make stuff but I have neither the money nor the space for an industrial lathe, so this is the best I got until I can spend several thousand a year paying property taxes on a place to put my $1500 lathe.
Would make a huge difference if it was mainly constructed of cast iron. I'm planning on building a lathe from scratch aswell, though I'm following more along the lines of fundamentals of mechanical accuracy. I'm lucky enough to have a professional casting shop near by so I'll use them for the dangerous stuff. Though this series has given me some new ideas