Years ago I did a similar setup, but I used an autopot valve to control the nutrient level in plastic 2L ice cream containers. My 4mm tubing was connected at the bottom of each container. This kept the nutrient level the same, however the control container was raised about 5mm higher than the rest. This allowed the nutrient in the control container to drop to nothing, while the grow containers had a few mm of nutrient preventing them from drying out. The autopot seal breaks, refills the containers to about 25mm high. This had two advantages; 1. The PH and EC was maintained and 2. The oxygen roots never drowned. At the start of the grow it work as a kratky system until the nutrient in the control container dropped and the autopot value took over.
I would probably add air stone(s). At least one air stone in the float jar and/or into the plant jars. Just an air stone im the float jar would help provide more oxygen to the roots, and may help with algae buildup (besides painting or covering the jar sides). They may need to be off the bottom though, to make sure bubbles are not introduced into the nutrient vacuum lines. And as soon as i started watching the video and it eas explained how it was going to work, my mind went directly to some 5-gallon buckets I have! Thanks for making great videis!
Listening to you in the background as I do aquarium maintenance/plan out an aquaponics system with my tanks and King Gizzard tickles my ears, incredible content.
A solution for your siphoning "start" issue from your central water supply jar may be to add a small vertical tube (which could also act as a water filling point) You could then provide some air pressure (by blowing on it with your lungs) which would push water out to get them started. It would be very tricky to get a bunch of tubes (4+) running with the "jar tip" method.
Was going to suggest exactly the same thing. Piece of gladwrap over the top, poke a straw through it and blow. Might be better though to do it in reverse - ie negative pressure on the jar you're trying to pull water into. That would work better for daisy-chaining, otherwise once you have more than 2 jars applying pressure would pushing it into the jar on either side.
I've been stumbling across all kinds of growing methods about last 15 years. Your content has blown my mind! Absolutey the most cohesive demonstrations of different hydroponic methods and the problems with solutions. I have a 38m2 apartment without balcony and I've been wondering how to make most of my space and window areas. During past years I've growing chilis (obviously) microgreens, sprouts and herbs. But here's the deal. The leafy greens. That's something that I've evaluated to be not worth it until now. Thanks to you I've gathered enough of the key things to have ideas how to construct my own hydro-system. I'll be making some content out of it myself at some point and I'll be sure to credit your fantastic youtube channel. Thank you for all of your effort and all of the education you have provided. Greetings from very snowy (at the moment) Finland! I'll see you in next Hoocho's!
Awesome project! Two suggestions! #1 - slight angle cut the tube ends in the jars, that way if they ever touch the bottom they don't seal. #2 - use a clear or grey base for your light meter... bright white will reflect a LOT of light back up all around your sensor, potentially skewing results. 🙏
Another great system idea. During setup, if you could plug the plant hole with cork or even a threaded disk, and with enough water pressure, water would be pushed up the pipe and into the first grow jar, the air escaping into the next jar until the last where it would escape to the room. Once the water had covered the bottom of the pipes and with the plant hole plugged, an airlock will form, this will push the water up the pipe into the next jar, until all jars have the pipes covered and the end jar will continue to fill. remove the plugs and the level will normalise in all jars
I grow in Folgers Instant containers because I drink a lot of coffee. 3 inch net cups are a perfect fit. I`ve pondered about a way to keep the water level 2/3rds full after initially filling up to the clay pebbles so seeds sprout and grow and use up the first nutrients.
Have you tried to cover the jars with tin foil or paint over them to prevent light from coming in. At 11:40 you can see the roots begin to recoil as the algae starts to grow from top to bottom.
Been using a similar system to this for a few years now. Your biggest issue with the smaller leaf sizes is likely the fill height on your jars. Not going above 60%~ after the first pour lets the oxygen roots establish themselves better and not drown the plant as much. Great vid and always a fan of more people experimenting/improving upon kratky siphons!
I love this and plan to do something similar. 2 1gallon buckets for the plants with essentially the same setup using a 3rd bucket with a homemade float valve. Been trying to figure out how I wanted to go about this and this answered my question so thank you!
Effin mad scientist mate! I found this very informative and instructive. I understand you are extremely experimental, and that’s why I continue to watch your videos and support the patreon. I myself take your build examples, but I always add zebra plastic to every build because I loathe algae and its oxygen sucking properties. I truly believe if you would have blocked the light on the plant roots (not as fun for time lapses for sure!), you would have had even better results! I can’t wait till you show the lettuce results! It’s also amazing the last pepper plant was taking that high of an ec!
To help equalize the jars without the mess, you might be able to create positive pressure on the jar with the fluid using an air pump (or even blowing into a straw) while covering the net cup hole to force the solution into the hose, or create negative pressure on the empty jar by sucking the air out to draw the solution through it. Once the solution goes up and over, you can add the next jar to the chain and do it again.
I'm at the beginning of the video but would it be better to paint the jars black or put paper or a sleve (maybe 3d printed) over it to reduce the algae growth?
Howdy Hoocho, do have a recording in your library explaining the fertilisers that you use on how they are made and their properties compared to soil growing vegetables?
If you don't want to paint the pots to show the roots, try using aluminum foil on the glass pots when you're not recording, this way the algae won't appear, or the algae will appear in smaller quantities!
Would it be possible to set up your system put liquid in all of them a little bit to cover the tubes then make a system that sits over one of the jars so you could put a vacuum to it, which would pull the nutrient from the previous one and so on and so on so I would suggest some kind of little rubber cap that could be held on the jar that you want to create a suction using a tube you could either use your mouth or a mechanical source of vacuum, pulling fluid from the previous jar into the next jar and so on and so on I think it would work.
I printed a couple of kratky jar covers from thingiverse for living room/kitchen setups and old black socks for the greenhouse jars to prevent algae. I quit using them though due to how often I had to refill them, but I may revisit it now.
Hello, I want to use one-meter tube LED lamps for lighting the hydroponic channels of leafy vegetables. How many watts should the lamps be for my plants to grow?
Hooch, i have tried this as you have describe in the past 2 summers, to grow tomatoes on my balcony (canada) in 8 5-gallon buckets. Did you find algae growth in the siphon tubes? Also, did you ever find that air would actually get into the siphon? Once outside, air bubbles naturally form and do get into the hoses which stop the siphon. It's quite a bit more challenging to get the siphon going, for a 5-gallon bucket. One way that helps somewhat, and might help the EC, is to also connect neighboring jars to each other in a grid, not just a from a central source. I'd be happy to share my experience in this, as i really want to get the yield up. Last year yielded about 10kg of tomatoes.
I’ve been thinking about how to easily release the air from such a system. Having a tap on a “T” at the top of the hose you’re using as a syphon. Then pumping (or sucking with your mouth) the air out of each and closing the tap
@@Hoocho its pretty gross. haha. I just purchased an aquarium siphon (used to clean/drain them) with a hand pump to try out this year. hopefully i can just pump the water through with a few squeezes and move the air through. While outside, i also found my float valves would get clogged with little bits of algae periodically.
@@jefffong1061 alternatively you can just hold the pipe underwater, block the ends with your fingers and put the other end in the other bucket… Not sure of the system design tho.
@@jefffong1061 alternatively you can just hold the pipe underwater, block the ends with your fingers and put the other end in the other bucket… Not sure of the system design tho.
@Hoocho great idea with jars as the plants wont topple over like in a plastic container- bucket that is near empty. if the jars ain't a requirement i would just get rubber top hat grommets to suit your hose size installed at the bottom of bucket chained up to the number needed with the last bucket being the float valve which make a much more easier system with less effort.
Hi Mitch, the EC issue is likely due to the fact that the associated plant has a far greater leaf mass and consequently the transpiration rate is considerably higher leaving more nutrient behind in the solution. I have 3yr old basil plants in a similar arrangement on a window sill and harvest periodically for a great pesto. The raw water consumption varies greatly according to the leaf mass on the plants which in turn effects the EC in the residual solution.
Would it help to create a rubber/silicone/flexseal stopper that fits in the basket (maybe using one as a mold) to stop water from escaping when setting up the siphon?
Great video! The only thing i can see wrong is i would have painted the jars to keep the alge out, and you could use a medicine dropper to start the syphon on the little hoses.
What are we to conclude about this style of float-valve? Have you seen the same issue when using them in the RGGS? I purchased some from hydroland but now I am nervous
I had no luck with this kind of float valve as well.... Tried 2 different models. Maybe they don't work with low pressure or you gotta do something else... idk...
The supply jar, have a 15cm-ish vertical fill pipe, then fill via that. I just use hose and pressurise the supply (and blows out bubbles) (mines just water res for self watering - but should work for hydro as well if there is enough pressure to push the bubbles out)
I used this concept in aquaponics. The water Bridge can be established by submerging the hose pipe before connecting the "jars". Rule: No air can be in or get in the water Bridge for it to work properly. Great, in concept but Water bridges fail if they are highest point above the water level, between tanks etc... The water bridges must be below the water level for long term use otherwise they break when oxygen is captured and it breaks the water bridge over time.
You could also start your siphon without turning your jars over by sealing your mouth over your lid and blowing until the pressure pushes the liquid through - like a reverse straw, or by otherwise rigging up compressed air in a way to do the same.
use a vacuum cleaner on blow to increase the air pressure in the jar that has the nutrient in it, the higher air pressure will force the water through the tube to prime up your siphon
I love your videos and all the experimentation. This innovative thinking leads to new techniques and technologies that will benefit people in the long run. I wanted to request a possible experiment for a future video. I have a home scale plant nursery and I'm looking for better more efficient ways to grow plants that I could sell. I believe hydroponics and aquaponic technologies hold some answers to this question. What is the best fastest way to grow seedlings for a plant nursery business. What do you think?
A possible additional direction to examine for vids... pests... The ants farming aphids on the basil crop 😃drives me nuts. Some possible solutions to common issues seen in Straya on hydroponic crops would be handy.
To hopefully make it less messy - Put your mouth on the jar opening creating a seal and try to breath into the container - the increased pressure will push the water down and up through the tube.
Modify the lids in such a way that you can seal of the lid entirely with an adapter of some kind and blow air into the top of the jar to force nutrient solution into the syphon tube into the next jar.
Could you link back to the single reservoir jar as a full closed system? That would possibly allow you to not overfill the plant jars and drowning the plants. It would also keep the EC and PH more equal across all the jars
I’d be interested in seeing a follow up video using this idea. I don’t have access to 3D printing and I use numerous mason jars for lettuce. Hoocho here’s another video opportunity. Viewers respond with a like to show Hoocho how many are interested in a second video. Another great idea!
I think the central jar should have a raised flare opening. With all the extra tubing it's going to be harder to cleanly pour the nutrient solution into the lid. Especially since the lid can't be raised without breaking the siphon with the tubes.
This would be great for non-fruiting greens such as lettuce and pokchoi and by adjusting the reservoir/float jar you maintain the Kratky airspace. Interesting. Sorrry Hadn't listened all the way to the end before commenting.
He Hoocho i have an idea how you can dasychain the individual jars without the risk that water gets from one plant to another. You could install a T piece on the lid fresh water comes in from the left dripps down until the first jar is full then the fresh water will flow from left to right through the T piece without carrying old water from jar 1 into jar 2.
I've used the T option and worked quite well, I also found I had fewer issues with air bubbles which I think was because the nutrient solution was flowing faster on the supply side of the syphon.
If you put a T in the lines that join the jars and add a bit of airline and a 1way air valve you could just suck the air out of the tubes, same idea as a over the top aquarium drain
If you fill the tubes with liquid before threading them into the jars, you can block off one end with your thumb and thread the other end into the first jar, then raise that first jar above the level of the second jar and thread the tube into the second jar. No need to flip anything.
@@Hoocho If you've already got the print on the jar (which you'd want to because you'd want liquid in the first jar before you thread the second one so that way the liquid in the tube doesn't just dump into the first jar), you just need to keep the jar in place. Get a second pair of hands, or just hold it between your knees while sitting down. No biggie.
@@Hoocho I wonder if there is any way to use or involve hose connectors with the auto stop feature that blocks water without something plugged into it?
You can do this more easely to start up. In the tubes between the jars do a T connector. Do a short tube to the 3e way of that T. Do the water / nutrient via that tube and as the tube is full fold it double and ty it up with whatever. The filling can be done with a injection tool what is used to give people injections when sick. I can do a little drawing and send it to you but don't know how to contact you in privat. About the 1 jar goes to the next and the next and the next and so on, you also can to 1 general jar in where the lit has more than 2 tubes pass true holes. You can do like 10 holes ( 1 for each jar connected ) so the question all plants have the same strenght of nutrient is nt relevant.
This is really cool. I don't quite understand the utility of this over say... a tray that could hold 12 containers inside of it and the tray itself uses a float valve and has something similar to those holders for the "plant" suspending in the tray (instead of jars)? With a tray, and raised containers, You would not need all those hoses and jars.. just 1 valve, 1 tray, and the slightly raised container... but maybe I am not understanding the other benefits of how this works. The other thing that might be a problem is that over time, I think the "hoses" will fill with air due to air coming out of solution, and because the "flow" from 1 bottle to the next will be very slow, the air bubble will eventually break the siphon. Another issue, you might need a system that also allows them to easily grow without toppling. You mentioned passively oxygenated... wow, impressive ! I am curious why the roots don't drown!
I honestly do most stuff just for proof of concept. I have a system similar to your “float tray” in design process, I’m using a very low pressure float for it with a shallow gauge. You’re right though. This is super complex for something that should be more simple. But in the making of it I learn and develop new ideas. I think that’s the true payoff.
@@HoochoIt's great to see the different ideas for sure. One idea I have been considering lately, is using "pond" water that has fish in it as the water source since you will get Nitrogen... tho you have to be careful about insecticides and additives harming the fish.
Hello sir ,I find your setups very simple and practical. I'm in Ghana West Africa. I really want to try this out here. Can you please if feasible send me a few grams of masterblend, calcium nitrate and Epsom salt. It would go along way. Thanks. Mahama Abdul -Basit
I have issues with your test vid: 1. Add all parts used w/links in the vid support text... i.e. tubing, black jars, float, etc. 2. How did you account for measurement differences AND 'green' algae growth having no indicated factor? Your Mason test should be redone using all black jars (or place a black-bag over the clear jar to negate sunlight algae growth for more accurate experiment/measurements. 3. The water level always changing would stunt/strain plant growth - you needed to fix the float feeder to keep a constant.
The only problem with this system, and any other Kratky-like refilling system, is the over-fertilization caused by the selective osmose process in the roots. In most cases, the nutrient solution won't be perfectly balanced and the plant won't absorb all the nutrients equally, causing an excess of specific salts and therefore EC rising. This method should work great with quick cycle cultivars, like green leaves, or early stages of long-running plants, like cannabis clones. But it shouldn't work keeping a plant alive for much time.
Sounds about right. I think the algae also consumes oxygen preventing nutrient uptake. That likely compounds with what you said to increase EC. I've had this happen in DWC. Also too warm or cold of water will cause this. Still worth a try. I tried a Kratky tomato and it grew really well until I let the water drop too low. The roots never seem to be as strong as when I add an air stone. I really think Kratky is cool but air pumps are so cheap and easy to operate. Not many reasons to forgo them. Even outdoors you can use solar power. It doesn't need to run all night so I think bubbles during the day would help massively. ❤
Hoocho stubby holders for the jars🤙
I can’t like this enough.
Saw on TikTok a while back somebody using shrink tube. It was making a very clean job@@Hoocho
Years ago I did a similar setup, but I used an autopot valve to control the nutrient level in plastic 2L ice cream containers. My 4mm tubing was connected at the bottom of each container. This kept the nutrient level the same, however the control container was raised about 5mm higher than the rest. This allowed the nutrient in the control container to drop to nothing, while the grow containers had a few mm of nutrient preventing them from drying out. The autopot seal breaks, refills the containers to about 25mm high. This had two advantages; 1. The PH and EC was maintained and 2. The oxygen roots never drowned. At the start of the grow it work as a kratky system until the nutrient in the control container dropped and the autopot value took over.
I would probably add air stone(s). At least one air stone in the float jar and/or into the plant jars. Just an air stone im the float jar would help provide more oxygen to the roots, and may help with algae buildup (besides painting or covering the jar sides). They may need to be off the bottom though, to make sure bubbles are not introduced into the nutrient vacuum lines.
And as soon as i started watching the video and it eas explained how it was going to work, my mind went directly to some 5-gallon buckets I have!
Thanks for making great videis!
I use old socks to cover the jars. Works perfect no algae :D
Seeing the plants in the background slowly positioning themselves closer to the light was a cool shot
Listening to you in the background as I do aquarium maintenance/plan out an aquaponics system with my tanks and King Gizzard tickles my ears, incredible content.
A solution for your siphoning "start" issue from your central water supply jar may be to add a small vertical tube (which could also act as a water filling point) You could then provide some air pressure (by blowing on it with your lungs) which would push water out to get them started. It would be very tricky to get a bunch of tubes (4+) running with the "jar tip" method.
Was going to suggest exactly the same thing. Piece of gladwrap over the top, poke a straw through it and blow. Might be better though to do it in reverse - ie negative pressure on the jar you're trying to pull water into. That would work better for daisy-chaining, otherwise once you have more than 2 jars applying pressure would pushing it into the jar on either side.
The return of King Gizzard & The Lizard Wizard ! 😍
Great system ! I am eager to see the Passive and auto-refilling buckets!
I've been stumbling across all kinds of growing methods about last 15 years. Your content has blown my mind! Absolutey the most cohesive demonstrations of different hydroponic methods and the problems with solutions. I have a 38m2 apartment without balcony and I've been wondering how to make most of my space and window areas. During past years I've growing chilis (obviously) microgreens, sprouts and herbs. But here's the deal. The leafy greens. That's something that I've evaluated to be not worth it until now. Thanks to you I've gathered enough of the key things to have ideas how to construct my own hydro-system. I'll be making some content out of it myself at some point and I'll be sure to credit your fantastic youtube channel. Thank you for all of your effort and all of the education you have provided. Greetings from very snowy (at the moment) Finland! I'll see you in next Hoocho's!
For those who don't have a 3d printer... Will you sell these?
Awesome project! Two suggestions! #1 - slight angle cut the tube ends in the jars, that way if they ever touch the bottom they don't seal. #2 - use a clear or grey base for your light meter... bright white will reflect a LOT of light back up all around your sensor, potentially skewing results. 🙏
You know, every single video you make is inspiring to me! This is a cool project, and I can see a lot of variations spawning from this!
You Sir are the coolest plant nerd ever! I’m learning so much from you, so what does that make me!! LOL You’re in good company.😊😊
I love what you're doing and that we don't have to wait for results!
Another great system idea. During setup, if you could plug the plant hole with cork or even a threaded disk, and with enough water pressure, water would be pushed up the pipe and into the first grow jar, the air escaping into the next jar until the last where it would escape to the room. Once the water had covered the bottom of the pipes and with the plant hole plugged, an airlock will form, this will push the water up the pipe into the next jar, until all jars have the pipes covered and the end jar will continue to fill. remove the plugs and the level will normalise in all jars
I grow in Folgers Instant containers because I drink a lot of coffee. 3 inch net cups are a perfect fit. I`ve pondered about a way to keep the water level 2/3rds full after initially filling up to the clay pebbles so seeds sprout and grow and use up the first nutrients.
Have you tried to cover the jars with tin foil or paint over them to prevent light from coming in. At 11:40 you can see the roots begin to recoil as the algae starts to grow from top to bottom.
Been using a similar system to this for a few years now. Your biggest issue with the smaller leaf sizes is likely the fill height on your jars. Not going above 60%~ after the first pour lets the oxygen roots establish themselves better and not drown the plant as much. Great vid and always a fan of more people experimenting/improving upon kratky siphons!
I love this and plan to do something similar. 2 1gallon buckets for the plants with essentially the same setup using a 3rd bucket with a homemade float valve. Been trying to figure out how I wanted to go about this and this answered my question so thank you!
Thanks I wondered how to start seedlings and the off grid water flow use black socks over the jars to shade out algae
Effin mad scientist mate! I found this very informative and instructive. I understand you are extremely experimental, and that’s why I continue to watch your videos and support the patreon. I myself take your build examples, but I always add zebra plastic to every build because I loathe algae and its oxygen sucking properties. I truly believe if you would have blocked the light on the plant roots (not as fun for time lapses for sure!), you would have had even better results! I can’t wait till you show the lettuce results! It’s also amazing the last pepper plant was taking that high of an ec!
that is a very good idea, i will try it with a similar system i have. the only problem is that you didn't say "on Hoocho's" in the end.... ☹
To help equalize the jars without the mess, you might be able to create positive pressure on the jar with the fluid using an air pump (or even blowing into a straw) while covering the net cup hole to force the solution into the hose, or create negative pressure on the empty jar by sucking the air out to draw the solution through it. Once the solution goes up and over, you can add the next jar to the chain and do it again.
Hoocho submerge the pipes in water to fill them and get out all air bubbles, ithen place fingers over the holes and place them into the filled jars .
This set up was/is perfect for getting tons of cuttings! Barely had to start any seeds, just rooted them in soil and had very little transition shock.
I can already see my setup for this spring/summer. Kratky tomato, salad and herbs. Maybe even more stuff
I'm at the beginning of the video but would it be better to paint the jars black or put paper or a sleve (maybe 3d printed) over it to reduce the algae growth?
I’ll wait
@@Hoocho4:59 and 15:50 there you said it 😂I'm only now looking further during lunch xD
Question. How would a organic nutrient mixed coco fare in a flood and drain system? Would the microbes be able to handle it for a brief time?
Howdy Hoocho, do have a recording in your library explaining the fertilisers that you use on how they are made and their properties compared to soil growing vegetables?
If you don't want to paint the pots to show the roots, try using aluminum foil on the glass pots when you're not recording, this way the algae won't appear, or the algae will appear in smaller quantities!
I wonder if you use a brake bleed kit with a hand vacuum to start it
Would it be possible to set up your system put liquid in all of them a little bit to cover the tubes then make a system that sits over one of the jars so you could put a vacuum to it, which would pull the nutrient from the previous one and so on and so on so I would suggest some kind of little rubber cap that could be held on the jar that you want to create a suction using a tube you could either use your mouth or a mechanical source of vacuum, pulling fluid from the previous jar into the next jar and so on and so on I think it would work.
Hey, what's the band name of the music at 11:30 ? It's super cool.
I printed a couple of kratky jar covers from thingiverse for living room/kitchen setups and old black socks for the greenhouse jars to prevent algae. I quit using them though due to how often I had to refill them, but I may revisit it now.
Hello, I want to use one-meter tube LED lamps for lighting the hydroponic channels of leafy vegetables. How many watts should the lamps be for my plants to grow?
I love your content. I need a 3d printer. I would do this. Keep up the good work!
Hooch, i have tried this as you have describe in the past 2 summers, to grow tomatoes on my balcony (canada) in 8 5-gallon buckets. Did you find algae growth in the siphon tubes? Also, did you ever find that air would actually get into the siphon? Once outside, air bubbles naturally form and do get into the hoses which stop the siphon. It's quite a bit more challenging to get the siphon going, for a 5-gallon bucket. One way that helps somewhat, and might help the EC, is to also connect neighboring jars to each other in a grid, not just a from a central source. I'd be happy to share my experience in this, as i really want to get the yield up. Last year yielded about 10kg of tomatoes.
I’ve been thinking about how to easily release the air from such a system. Having a tap on a “T” at the top of the hose you’re using as a syphon.
Then pumping (or sucking with your mouth) the air out of each and closing the tap
Share your system on the Hoochos facebooks group if you like. In description of videos
@@Hoocho its pretty gross. haha. I just purchased an aquarium siphon (used to clean/drain them) with a hand pump to try out this year. hopefully i can just pump the water through with a few squeezes and move the air through. While outside, i also found my float valves would get clogged with little bits of algae periodically.
@@jefffong1061 alternatively you can just hold the pipe underwater, block the ends with your fingers and put the other end in the other bucket…
Not sure of the system design tho.
@@jefffong1061 alternatively you can just hold the pipe underwater, block the ends with your fingers and put the other end in the other bucket…
Not sure of the system design tho.
5:30 @Hoocho What about blowing air with your mouth covering the holes of the lid?
How many days would it take from setting up seedling to harvesting the first fruit?
@Hoocho great idea with jars as the plants wont topple over like in a plastic container- bucket that is near empty.
if the jars ain't a requirement i would just get rubber top hat grommets to suit your hose size installed at the bottom of bucket chained up to the number needed with the last bucket being the float valve which make a much more easier system with less effort.
Hi Mitch, the EC issue is likely due to the fact that the associated plant has a far greater leaf mass and consequently the transpiration rate is considerably higher leaving more nutrient behind in the solution. I have 3yr old basil plants in a similar arrangement on a window sill and harvest periodically for a great pesto. The raw water consumption varies greatly according to the leaf mass on the plants which in turn effects the EC in the residual solution.
Would it help to create a rubber/silicone/flexseal stopper that fits in the basket (maybe using one as a mold) to stop water from escaping when setting up the siphon?
Great video! The only thing i can see wrong is i would have painted the jars to keep the alge out, and you could use a medicine dropper to start the syphon on the little hoses.
Could this work with a krakty 5 gallon bucket system???
What are we to conclude about this style of float-valve? Have you seen the same issue when using them in the RGGS? I purchased some from hydroland but now I am nervous
Could the elevated ph be more to do with the amount of algae in the jars? Great video.
i had chillis and peppers at ph7 and they did brill lovely sweet peppers to eat too
Do you still use 1 picture for every 10 minutes for your timelapse. Amazing idea! Cheers!
I had no luck with this kind of float valve as well.... Tried 2 different models. Maybe they don't work with low pressure or you gotta do something else... idk...
What size mason jars are you using 16 oz or 32 oz or another size?
We did something similar, but with Ollas in the garden!
What about your water temps nft outdoor?
You are in australia water temps must be higher than 20-21degrees
Thanks alot
The supply jar, have a 15cm-ish vertical fill pipe, then fill via that. I just use hose and pressurise the supply (and blows out bubbles) (mines just water res for self watering - but should work for hydro as well if there is enough pressure to push the bubbles out)
I used this concept in aquaponics. The water Bridge can be established by submerging the hose pipe before connecting the "jars". Rule: No air can be in or get in the water Bridge for it to work properly. Great, in concept but Water bridges fail if they are highest point above the water level, between tanks etc... The water bridges must be below the water level for long term use otherwise they break when oxygen is captured and it breaks the water bridge over time.
with this constant refilling to the top, will there be enough space for air roots? or won't air roots be drowned?
You could also start your siphon without turning your jars over by sealing your mouth over your lid and blowing until the pressure pushes the liquid through - like a reverse straw, or by otherwise rigging up compressed air in a way to do the same.
great idea hoocho
shouldn't you add somethin around the jars to prevent green algae spreading ?
use a vacuum cleaner on blow to increase the air pressure in the jar that has the nutrient in it, the higher air pressure will force the water through the tube to prime up your siphon
I love your videos and all the experimentation. This innovative thinking leads to new techniques and technologies that will benefit people in the long run. I wanted to request a possible experiment for a future video. I have a home scale plant nursery and I'm looking for better more efficient ways to grow plants that I could sell. I believe hydroponics and aquaponic technologies hold some answers to this question. What is the best fastest way to grow seedlings for a plant nursery business. What do you think?
Awesome! Thanks for sharing.
A possible additional direction to examine for vids... pests... The ants farming aphids on the basil crop 😃drives me nuts. Some possible solutions to common issues seen in Straya on hydroponic crops would be handy.
To hopefully make it less messy - Put your mouth on the jar opening creating a seal and try to breath into the container - the increased pressure will push the water down and up through the tube.
Modify the lids in such a way that you can seal of the lid entirely with an adapter of some kind and blow air into the top of the jar to force nutrient solution into the syphon tube into the next jar.
Could you link back to the single reservoir jar as a full closed system?
That would possibly allow you to not overfill the plant jars and drowning the plants. It would also keep the EC and PH more equal across all the jars
I’d be interested in seeing a follow up video using this idea. I don’t have access to 3D printing and I use numerous mason jars for lettuce. Hoocho here’s another video opportunity. Viewers respond with a like to show Hoocho how many are interested in a second video. Another great idea!
I think the central jar should have a raised flare opening. With all the extra tubing it's going to be harder to cleanly pour the nutrient solution into the lid. Especially since the lid can't be raised without breaking the siphon with the tubes.
This would be great for non-fruiting greens such as lettuce and pokchoi and by adjusting the reservoir/float jar you maintain the Kratky airspace. Interesting. Sorrry Hadn't listened all the way to the end before commenting.
He Hoocho i have an idea how you can dasychain the individual jars without the risk that water gets from one plant to another.
You could install a T piece on the lid fresh water comes in from the left dripps down until the first jar is full then the fresh water will flow from left to right through the T piece without carrying old water from jar 1 into jar 2.
And also you could use a vacuum cleaner on the second jar so it sucks water through the tubing
I've used the T option and worked quite well, I also found I had fewer issues with air bubbles which I think was because the nutrient solution was flowing faster on the supply side of the syphon.
If you put a T in the lines that join the jars and add a bit of airline and a 1way air valve you could just suck the air out of the tubes, same idea as a over the top aquarium drain
Hey what kind of seed are in that jar at 2.30
Coriander
Wow this is so cool.
If you fill the tubes with liquid before threading them into the jars, you can block off one end with your thumb and thread the other end into the first jar, then raise that first jar above the level of the second jar and thread the tube into the second jar. No need to flip anything.
Hard to keep the thumb on threaddding it through a 3d print 🤣
@@Hoocho If you've already got the print on the jar (which you'd want to because you'd want liquid in the first jar before you thread the second one so that way the liquid in the tube doesn't just dump into the first jar), you just need to keep the jar in place. Get a second pair of hands, or just hold it between your knees while sitting down. No biggie.
Hey hooch! I tried this method. It's Best to do it in parallel then in series since the nutrients solution concentrate at the very end.
Could you explain why the solution concentrat at the end?
If these are 3D printed. Couldn't you put a "plug" into the cup so you can prep your system?
You’re a genius.
What are those plants
He said 2 kinds of chili peppers
Should try and make a print for a float valve
I’m working on it. It’s quite complex. But I will make it work eventually.
@@Hoocho I wonder if there is any way to use or involve hose connectors with the auto stop feature that blocks water without something plugged into it?
@@Hoocho Mr Kratky has some simple float valve designs in his channel, I bet you could improve them
You can do this more easely to start up. In the tubes between the jars do a T connector. Do a short tube to the 3e way of that T. Do the water / nutrient via that tube and as the tube is full fold it double and ty it up with whatever. The filling can be done with a injection tool what is used to give people injections when sick. I can do a little drawing and send it to you but don't know how to contact you in privat. About the 1 jar goes to the next and the next and the next and so on, you also can to 1 general jar in where the lit has more than 2 tubes pass true holes. You can do like 10 holes ( 1 for each jar connected ) so the question all plants have the same strenght of nutrient is nt relevant.
You can blow from the top of the full jar instead of rotating it, kinda like a beer keg...I don't know if I'm clear 😂😂
This is really cool. I don't quite understand the utility of this over say... a tray that could hold 12 containers inside of it and the tray itself uses a float valve and has something similar to those holders for the "plant" suspending in the tray (instead of jars)? With a tray, and raised containers, You would not need all those hoses and jars.. just 1 valve, 1 tray, and the slightly raised container... but maybe I am not understanding the other benefits of how this works.
The other thing that might be a problem is that over time, I think the "hoses" will fill with air due to air coming out of solution, and because the "flow" from 1 bottle to the next will be very slow, the air bubble will eventually break the siphon.
Another issue, you might need a system that also allows them to easily grow without toppling.
You mentioned passively oxygenated... wow, impressive ! I am curious why the roots don't drown!
I honestly do most stuff just for proof of concept.
I have a system similar to your “float tray” in design process, I’m using a very low pressure float for it with a shallow gauge.
You’re right though. This is super complex for something that should be more simple.
But in the making of it I learn and develop new ideas.
I think that’s the true payoff.
@@HoochoIt's great to see the different ideas for sure. One idea I have been considering lately, is using "pond" water that has fish in it as the water source since you will get Nitrogen... tho you have to be careful about insecticides and additives harming the fish.
Good morning,
I would like a photo of your installation, I can't visualize it.
Thanks in advance
@@babyssbabyss5958I think he said it is still in the design phase.
Idea: Add an additional jar on the end of the chain with no plant that you can siphon solution out of to flush the system as needed.
Love the idea
Hello sir ,I find your setups very simple and practical. I'm in Ghana West Africa. I really want to try this out here. Can you please if feasible send me a few grams of masterblend, calcium nitrate and Epsom salt. It would go along way. Thanks. Mahama Abdul -Basit
Paint the jars and you'll stop the algae and also roots prefer darkness
Use black containers
Use a syringe to prime the lines before you put them in.
Start the siphon with a clip-on parasitic pump to purge the air.
imo you don't have to prime the tubes. Just fill all the jars and as they drop they will self prime off the feed jar.
I have issues with your test vid:
1. Add all parts used w/links in the vid support text... i.e. tubing, black jars, float, etc.
2. How did you account for measurement differences AND 'green' algae growth having no indicated factor? Your Mason test should be redone using all black jars (or place a black-bag over the clear jar to negate sunlight algae growth for more accurate experiment/measurements.
3. The water level always changing would stunt/strain plant growth - you needed to fix the float feeder to keep a constant.
You could have used your extra holes and pressurized the first jar
Maybe the roots get enough oxygen beacuse of the high amount of algae. With enough light they can produce oxygen like crazy.
The only problem with this system, and any other Kratky-like refilling system, is the over-fertilization caused by the selective osmose process in the roots. In most cases, the nutrient solution won't be perfectly balanced and the plant won't absorb all the nutrients equally, causing an excess of specific salts and therefore EC rising. This method should work great with quick cycle cultivars, like green leaves, or early stages of long-running plants, like cannabis clones. But it shouldn't work keeping a plant alive for much time.
Sounds about right. I think the algae also consumes oxygen preventing nutrient uptake. That likely compounds with what you said to increase EC. I've had this happen in DWC. Also too warm or cold of water will cause this. Still worth a try. I tried a Kratky tomato and it grew really well until I let the water drop too low. The roots never seem to be as strong as when I add an air stone. I really think Kratky is cool but air pumps are so cheap and easy to operate. Not many reasons to forgo them. Even outdoors you can use solar power. It doesn't need to run all night so I think bubbles during the day would help massively. ❤
"Coriander" seeds 🤣🤣
You did the ending wrong!!
3rd
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SECOND
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Way too complicated
P "HATEch"
First 🎉
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