How Bad is it to Drill on a CNC Router?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 มิ.ย. 2024
- I had long heard (and myself repeated) that drilling on a CNC router was less than ideal. But just how bad is it to drill materials at 10k RPM? That's what I wanted to find out for myself.
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You really drilled this point home. Much less boring than I thought it would be. Hopefully, this vid will keep people from milling around, and be productive with their CNCs. Great work staying on the cutting edge of helpful vids!
Underrated comment here! 👆🏻👌🏻
Leave.
The two replies to this comment represents the duality of man
@@Gdog4evr "ppl do opposite things im so profound" 🤓
@@connorhill8889 Who shit in your cornflakes? 🤣
I've drilled almost a million holes with a 2.2kW VFD spindle on my, a basic HSS black oxide coated stub drill can do 300k+ holes in hardwood if you get your feed rates right. The challenge is having a very fast Z axis, which most routers do not. With a 4mm drill bit, I drill at about 0.2mm/tooth, or 0.4mm/revolution of the router bit. I run at 18000rpm typically, which is only 7200mm/min or 120mm/s. Its a hard, fast punch and pulling out of the hole is critical to not burning. I run a compressed air jet on the drill bit for cooling and chip clearance, with this setup I can drill a 14mm deep drill every 0.7 seconds. I don't peck drill, just punch in and out hard and fast.
Damn! Good work finding the params that work for this kind of drilling
Are you serious, this guy acted like routers are to fast, what rpm are they, because I thought 18k was pretty fast but for your .157 drill that's only 75 sfm, maybe he is talking about bugger bits and way to shallow of a chip,
I dont get it, if your running at 18000 rpm, and drill .4 mm or .2 per tooth per Rev, that would put you at 120 mm a second,
omg the "This Old Tony" setting was amazing.
Excellent! I can see several uses for the "speaker grill" drilling. Thanks!
Thanks for the video. Keep safe and stay well.
Edit: Oh haha, I posted this too early. you say the same stuff later on in the video.
Thinking in terms of surface speed and chipload is often more relevant than feeds and speed.
High RPMs is not an issue in itself, it is high RPM in combination with too large circumference = high surface speed.
Else there wouldn't be a need for tiny 70Krpm drills :)
Also, using a 1/4 inch (6.25mm) drill in wood at 10K rpm gives a surface speed of nearly 200m/min, where the highest recommended speed in wood is 70m/min.
Even the 1/8th inch drill pushes this limit a fair bit.
With the same simple pattern, using a 1/16th inch drill would be a-ok with 10K rpm, but then of course there are other suboptimal factors.
Just felt like posting my thougts in the matter.
Good channel!
The recommended speed for wood is much more than 70 m/min, more like 200-300. It is even so that smaller table saws with 6' blades cannot reach the ideal speed. Ideally, you want to be faster than the splitting speed of wood. On the other side, you have the lower thermal capacity of HSS tools. I have drilled 8 mm holes in plywood with a 700W spindle without a problem. Now I use a 1,5 kW Suhner with a 12 mm collet which goes as low as 2,500 rpm. I tested it with some chip board and it doesn't even registered the cutting force. Only downside is that you probably don't get a collet for all possible drill sizes.
Horray for VFD spindles. The water cooled ones work well down to 6k rpm.
Thanks for sharing Winston!
I drilled 2x 1000 hole grills in polycarbonate with a 1.8mm PCB drill and it worked surprisingly well. Biggest issue I had was that stringy chips would wrap a bit on the drill and eventually enough would be present to cause some heat buildup on the surface causing a tiny bit of surface melting affecting the finish. I was not going to led the build up reach the point where the bit broke, so I ended up pausing every 30-50 holes to clear the drill.
By the end it was clear there was a bit of wear on the drill because the bit needed to be cleaned slightly more often, but it was still working like a champ.
Try using a wood drill bit instead of a coated drill that was meant for steel.
that would surely reduce the friction heat due to the "sharper tool angles". also the wood drills have a center "pin", supposedly leading to better position accuracy
I fortunately do have a spindle and generally drill at 5-6K RPM. Your analysis is really great on this particular subject!
Good Timing, I am making a custom Cribbage Board and need to make a few hundred holes, great video and info! Cheers
I had a project where I had to drill 14,000 1/16" dia holes in 1/4" acrylic. I used a standard
split point HSS drill. I turned on the router at 8am and left for a meeting in NYC. I got home
at midnight and it had just finished - it clocks the time the job took. The piece was perfect.
I did a two pass peck and converted circles to drill points so that is would never move horizontally.
I'm going to put this information to use right away! Thank you.
Great video, so informative. Awesome narration. The case design is so beautiful, you're going to have to use it in some project. : ) Mahalo for sharing! : )
This has helped me so much thank you brudduh
That enclosure design is awesome
Thanks Winston, that was a great video.
Carbide drill bits. No pecking. Above 1/8" There's absolutely no reason to drill a hole when you can bore it just as quick.
Great video, thanks for sharing.
Great video, I had to make 8 "bed of nails" for the physics department here at Fresno State University. Each one required 6500 #43 holes for the roofing nails. I did the first one by hand and almost went postal. The second one I did on our Bridgeport mill. I hooked up a stepper and Arduino to move the X axis for about 155 holes at a time. Still drove me nuts! I then purchased an X-Carve! I used Fusion 360 to make a square grid of about 2000 holes, and this worked great! The bed of nails were done in 4 segments each segment taking about 4 hours. I burned up six #43 drill bits and Broke 3 during the process. I should be noted that my Dewalt router quit shortly thereafter, but was repaired under warranty. I felt a little guilty about that. Driving all those nails is another story.
Don"t feel guilty about the DeWalt router. They randomly blow up in your hand if you don't flog them to death. After a couple of blow ups you will either change brand or just buy a water cooler 3 phase unit.
TOT would be proud of that joke
Great stuff! I switched to Makita RF1101 which can go down to 8000rpm and now I can drill 1/8" in aluminum, maybe 3/16.
I've only drilled successfully twice on my CNC router. Both times doing shallow holes in wood, with very small bits. I tried many times, but always ended up destroying something. I tried lowering the min RPM in the VFD and that resulted in slower spindle speeds, but no torque at all, resulting in stalled spindle while the Z continued to feed down. At min RPM ( 9000 ) there's plenty of torque, but without flood coolant, aluminum welds to the bit and things break again. I've adopted doing a boring operation and that seems to work every time.
Another idea to help those out with drilling, I use a V bit to spot drill all my holes, even in aluminum, for layout purposes. I can CNC out the piece with all it's geometry minus the holes and then drill press said holes. If the holes are center drilled, even drilling 100 holes or so, manually drilling the holes goes way faster! Wished I had this video before I found out the hard way that drill bits in a router lead to sadness.
Thanks Winston
I do this too. Works pretty well as long as there aren't hundreds of holes.
That's an interesting idea. I just started an hour ago with 2mm HSS drill bits with my spindle, and found the bit tends to deflect on its way in. A v-bit to spot it might work.
Great video - thank you
I miss my old school Bandit 3 CNC control as there were so many built in G code subroutines that could be nestled 3 deep and performer so much work with a small program
We drill hardwoods all the time with standard drill bits but it helps having a 9hp spindle that still has usable torque at the 3500rpm we use.
You can get single flute spiral drill bits, but it looks like the common sizes are tiny with 1/8 inch shank, or common sizes in a much larger shank for big machines. Bit of I've never used any of these before.
That was a great video.
I drilled many many 8mm(5/16") diameter holes in 1"(25mm) 6061 aluminium using a diy CNC with VFD speed control. Doing it using a router from a hardware store is more challenging and dangerous.
You could use pecking drilling feature in fusion 360, but you will kill your bit fast
Peck drill aluminum or conventional drill a HSS drill will do thousands of holes before needing sharpened
A DLC-coated drill will probably outlast the machine when running alu
In my last workplace, 8mm DLC Carbide drills lasted around 12500 25mm holes in alu.
Thanks for sharing
I am the CNC guy for my robotics team. We have a laguna swift 4x4 router. We drill all the time. We mainly cut aluminum, but also plastic and wood on occasion. We use carbide drill bits (HSS sometimes too), and the key is just just feed the hell out of it. I mainly do .191 holes in aluminum and I drill at .002 ipt at 18000rpm with a carbide drill. Cuts thousands of holes before needing to change. No pecking at all.
The vacuum table we made with a .125” drill, we fed 120ipm at 18000 rpm. Drilled 4,000 holes no problem
You can do it, don’t be afraid
A decent approach is to just use a spotting drill to position your holes with a depth of 1 or 2 mm and finish them on a drill press.
i plan to do that after im done making a working cnc router. i plan to update it as soon as i can cuz with garage tools, it has been hell
Not if you need them dead square on a spoilboard for anchor points..
Or dead square in general.
You forgot reason #3 .
The bearings in the spindle and their mounts are not made for axial loads but .
I pushed my small ATC spindle (CNC mill, not 2.5D router) up inside it's casing because the bearings where press-fit while drilling POM.
If you are looking for some good short drill bits try looking up “screw machine style drill bit set” they are just short dill bits that have a higher rigidity
It seems to me that this is a non issue if you have control over your spindle speed. I use a VFD, and adjust my spindle speed all the time depending on the bit, material, and operation. I use UCCNC for my control where I can tweak spindle speed on the fly if I need to. Pretty important for most any operation.
Maybe you should try a JMC closed loop Stepper motor on the Z axis, which can accelerate much faster than a normal open loop stepper. There is a Nema17 available
I use a center drill to spot the pattern of holes I’m making then complete it on a drill press. I’ve only used that with a couple holes per part not hundreds
Might be bad on yours , but it’s the bread and butter of my CNC Router , not all CNC router’s are born equal.
Looks real cool
*Very* interesting topic and video. :) I have a usecase in which I'd like to use some CNC to drill ~ø 5 mm holes in 2mm thick steel plates. I haven't built the CNC for this purpose yet, and was actually thinking about a design similar to a Maslow CNC. I'm fine with the drilling being relatively slow as I only need ~20 holes per plate, the primary thing is accuracy since the point would be to save time in laying out, measuing and marking up components. Using the Maslow design would mean I could set the plate in the orientation I would later build it in.
What would you advise for a task like this? I'm thinking if perhaps it makes sense to use something else than a router (maybe a servo?) to keep RPMs down? And how feesable is it generally to drill such holes with a CNC providing you use something with a higher torque at lower RPM to allow for a lower rotational speed?
That wooden speaker grill looks really nice 👌
Hey Winston, to get off topic, have you ever considered playing around with a drag knife? I recently just got one and going to use a 3d printer to make a holder for my shapeoko.
Hi Winston,
Have you considered something like the Super PID to control router speed? I can control my Dewalt 611 from 5,000-30,000 rpm with this device.
I see an air nozzle, but have you considered air blast for hole making. I know it makes a mess but it will greatly help with clearing chips.
I use spotting drills on my 3040T which has a 800w VFD (hopefully to be changed to a 2.2kw soon ). I prefer spotting drills as you have not got the tip to break off. I spent 18 years as a machinist/toolmaker and only broke about 2 whilst working on stainless, tool steels, plastics and alunimium but have slightly more control with manaul machines. Funny enough I only broke center drills in manual milling machines and none in manual lathes even when using BS1 sizes, lol.
I wonder if a single / straight flute drill bit would help, as that effectively halves your spindle speed.
Would it be more efficient to just create a dxf/svg and send it directly to the machine? At least for the simpler shapes but with a lot of geometry?
I'm laughing so hard, I saw that "that's what she said" meme coming about two sentences away. ;)
2:35 lmao
flashbacks to kneading dough in ours
thing was kicking around like crazy
Is almond not the new snips alternative? It seems like every good project is being bought out lately (snips, darksky, ect)
2:07 yeah that last one isn't good, not for my huge machine anyway, i add a function that decreases to a % of regular speed and below a certain diameter i define
So far i have only had to make drill holes once in my waste board for my thread inserts. I used a 1/8th upcut end mil and vcarve drilling tool path. Maybe cuz i was using MDF prob, But i had no issues. I did buy the upcut bit for this job (drilling holes) maybe thats what did it?
Good stuff. Thank you, Winston. I see a lot of comments from guys who are clearly veteran CNC machinists, so they're rightly skeptical of this, but as I understand it your point was to do some legwork and investigate the question of drilling with a palm-router based CNC machine - for those of use who have these machines and wondered that ourselves. I know full well these routers spin too fast for regular hole drilling, but man what a cool thing if it can sorta be made to to work. I'm a mechanical engineer and have had a manual Harbor Freight grade manual mill for years, but I'm new to CNC - just put my Shapeoko Pro XXL together last week and ran Hello World. What I don't get about this is what the toolpath looks like. In other words how do you get the machine to just plunge down to drill a hole hole but not translate? How do you make it peck? (I've gathered from comments that's not a good idea, but would like to know nonetheless). Is it as simple as using Carbide Create to draw the board with the pattern of holes in it and using the "Drill" option under the "2D Toolpaths" tab? Can you steer me to a good tutorial on this?
If all else fails, just look up the list of G-codes that your machine can handle and manually edit the G-code. A printed list of G-codes can be a lot more accessible than trying to figure out the ins-and-outs of some CADCAM programs.
G-code really isn't that difficult to learn. The reason CADCAM programs exist is that it just allows well versed CNC programmers to more quickly create more complicated programs and avoid simple oversight errors from causing too much damage on test runs.
If you're only doing simple wood projects, you're really only going to be using a small handful of simple G-code commands.
I work CNC for a cabinet shop, normal bits in the drill chuck work very well at 100 feed and 5000rpm
we drill 1/4 inch polycarbonate with a 1/4 inch flat endmill when producing our robot parts. No problems. We do have a Velox 5050 and an er collet spindle so it may not be as applicable to these desktop cncs
Where did you get those nice clamps?
How much rpm and feed can give for drill a hardwood with 1/4 inch twist drill ?
As a master cnc machinist, I would set up a macro to drill 3 times the diameter of the drill and then 2 times and any following pecks at 1 time the diameter.
This video was so informative for a newb CNC boy that my only question is... why do you despise oak?
Wouldn't Fusion 360 have coped with the pattern much better if the pattern is applied in the CAM workspace rather than design?
Working on a project. Its a cnc drilling machine for PCBs. Moving gantry type.
No milling or engraving. Jus drilling.
U have any suggestions??
lol On Fusion handling tons of holes, did a project yesterday(leather tool plate) where I repeated a model hundreds and hundreds of times. And it was a complicated little stamp, trust me I feel your pain;) I've got a pretty stout multicore xeon workstation with 96gb of ram. BUT Fusion still was dragging it to the ground on this project so I think it's Fusion more so than the machine pushing it;) I crashed Fusion like 10 times yesterday;)
4:25 - This is one of the key reasons I suggested that you change out the router for a PWM or PWM with analog converter type SPINDLE. I can ramp the speed down to 1000 RPM which gives me a lot more control over the process. Additionally, even though it takes a secondary machine pass, I will install a center drill which is very short to make a pass that just goes in perhaps 0.5 to 2.0 mm leaving a great starting hole. If the hole is slightly large, it just means you have a small chamfer on the finished hole. Then I will do the finish pass with straight or peck drilling as needed. The spindle is also MUCH more quiet as I will demonstrate. I had a water cooled when i made the video, but the air cooled use the outer body of the device for heat dissipation and are about as quiet. (And yes, I stated the airflow backwards.)
th-cam.com/video/hALI4XpfmQ8/w-d-xo.html
NO doubt that a water cooled (or even air cooled) spindle is a must have for so many reasons. Far better run-out, far quieter, speed control right from the software (Mach 3 or better), and usually higher horse power. No one would ever run a drill at 16k RPM, but I run them at 6k in aluminum with 1 thou per tooth and a pecking cycle on my cnc 'router'.
I go as far as to say it is a disservice for shapeoko to even recommend using a router for anything but the cheapest of budgets.
What model spindle is that?
@@BrettFleming - Just a heads up about the air-cooled spindles. They have a minimum RPM in order to keep the air moving. askjerry can get down to 1K rpm, but my air-cooled spindle has a minimum rpm of 4K to keep cool. Still slower than the 10K that Mr. Moy is describing as a minimum router speed.
First, for anyone starting out in CNC, upgrade to a chinese spindle. The air cooled ones have come way down in price and allow you an easier upgrade path. It's a night and day difference from a router. Between tolerance and lack of speed range, routers are just clunky when it comes to CNC. I drill on the CNC all the time. I even use forstner bits and prefer them for most drilling operations in wood. When using regular drill bits, cut them to as long as they need to be. They work fine until one gets even the slightest bend, then disaster happens. I cut down the length on the forstner bits as well. The shorter the shaft, the less potential for wobble. Drilling is fantastic on the CNC, but better at a slower spindle speed. proper feed rates and a short drill bit. Make sure that you have a way to quickly turn off your spindle if something goes wrong. A bent 1/4" drill bit at 12k+ rpms will shake a hobby machine apart very quickly and will ruin the bearings in a router very quickly.
Hi, great content.
Could you share some insights in how to drill PLA plastic with CNC?
Holes 25mm deep and 2 mm in diameter
Could that work on CNC?
Also am interested can CNC be made to work with camera detection of work peace by some kind of centering marks on it so that CNC would know where to drill the holes?
drilling with end mill is actually a better solution than boring if you have a right size tool. when you bore something narrow and deep with a long end mill side forces will increase towards the bottom of a hole and tool deflection will rise so holes will be slightly tapered. to prevent it you should run boring toolpath twice what is time consuming.
“Boring” is an operation that uses a boring bar -what you are calling boring is just contour machining with a ramped entry- the confusion might come from the use of “bore” as a term for round holes. Boring (with a boring bar) and drilling are a better way to make accurate holes -any machining done on a Cartesian machine is going to be out of round and often out of tolerance due to backlash. The disadvantages to drilling you mentioned are correct- hss drills want a lower rpm and are long and wiggly- also without a drill collet it’s tough to get them seated in the router. Outside of lowering rpm you can get more expensive carbide drills which will bring the ideal rpm to a more router friendly speed- you can also get stub length drill bits which help both the stickout and walking issues
My Makita router doesn't have any issues with drilling slowly and the run out is as close to zero that it doesn't matter. And the router is compact. When I make a bigger machine I will use a Bosch router, but for the machine I have the Makita is perfect
This video was so timely it made me laugh out loud. I was working on a custom cribbage board and I was trying to run a path-oriented pattern of 363 (121x3) holes when it completely bogged down my old Macbook Pro with only 8GB of memory. While waiting, I started watching Winston's video. Sure enough, Winston pointed out how memory intensive this process was as I watched my Fusion appear to do nothing... I think I'll be successful but I'm STILL waiting for Fusion to render the new Bodies. In the meantime, I'm going to be speccing out a desktop build as I've been lusting after the new Ryzen cpus.
Hey Jotham! Did you figure out a good plunge/drill operation for those holes? I'm doing the same thing with a .125 upcut (.25 shank) on my mikita router and were almost at the point where only a few holes burn. Curious if you got it to never burn a hole?
@@tangyboi6420 I should also add that with hindsight, I might have modeled my cribbage board differently. I modeled actual bodies, duplicated them about 288 times then merged them with the main body. A smarter approach would probably have been to create a circle in a new Sketch, done a pattern with the sketched circles and then done drill operations off those sketched circles. I'm not sure it would work but Fusion might handle a bunch of sketch circles faster rather than tons of bodies.
@@jothammcmillan8854 Do you by chance remember what your plunge rate & rpm was? Also did you do a peck drill or straight up drill operation? Our project file is working great we just haven't dialed in our plunge/drill operation type.
@@tangyboi6420 According to my file, I did a straight up drill operation (Cycle Type : Drilling - rapid out) with a plunge rate of 200 mm/min. I haven't run this in forever so I don't recall how well that worked.
@@jothammcmillan8854 Thanks!!
Good stuff....did you touch on the force required to drill vs the available force on the stock Z (belt) drive...or did I miss that part...boring joke was really dull (another bad machinist joke).
I did not explicitly state it but now that you mention it, for anyone that cares:
The Z-Plus is roughly 4x better than the belt driven Z-axis in terms of axial force it can apply.
The HDZ is about 10x better.
Hi. Winston mentioned an 'ER equipped router spindle'. What does ER stand for? Thanks for the video
It is a type of collet. Per Wikipedia: The "ER" name came from an existing "E" collet (which were a letter series of names) which Rego-Fix modified and appended "R" for "Rego-Fix".
That's freaking gorgeous
It's important to note that not all CNC router controllers can take advantage of some CANNED cycles in Gcode.
If you're just doing imprecise, mass repetitions and it's breaking your CADCAM program, just split it into multiple programs. Or, you can just play with the G-code. I think there's G-code for arrays of drilling processes, but you can also just make a program to drill one hole, then edit the G-code and copy/paste a bunch of relative coordinate changes.
With a bit of coding skill, you can easily generate the GCode given the centers. Its just a simple text file. I've done it.
I heard of Mycroft as an open source voice assistant. Never looked deeper into it though.
First version out of the gate, pretty good but limited. Still used Google's servers to understand your speech but funneled EVERYONEs speech through one account to Google so fairly anonymized. Second version has been a Kickstarter disaster, two years late and ongoing development issues.
Just what i need... I need to drill a number of holes of a certain diameter and in a precise pattern (or I have to do it manually which sucks.. LOL)... I need a CNC router.... Mike in LA, Calif, USA
Just use a router with a speed adjustment and go for it. I built a Jacobs chuck adapter for my DeWalt 7518 and have been drilling basic holes that way in a production environment for six years without issue. Just get the RPM down to 10k and it's fine in wood if you plunge in and out as quickly as possible without pecking. I don't even go through drill bits that quickly.
very informative, I am just getting into CNC, which CNC software would you suggest? thanks
I would suggest you use fusion 360
Depends on what you want to make. If it's just 2D stuff or artistic things like signs, you're probably okay with free stuff like Carbide Create or paid stuff like Vectric Vcarve. If you want to "engineer" things and design projects with multiple components that come together, Fusion all the way.
Wow that snips thing actually sounded great, I'd been looking for on-device voice features for privacy . RIP I guess.
The mycroft project is what you're looking for.
@@ThePablare Is mycroft on device recognition? The site doesn't really have a lot of info but seems to suggest it isn't.
Coincidentally I just looked into this the other day so I will share. Mycroft does indeed support operation entirely on the local device however it is not recommended and requires a lot of processing power, were talking a full-blown workstation to get the conventional functionality and response times. Putting the big metal in the cloud and sharing across multiple users is what makes the whole concept economically viable.
Huh. I drilled a bunch of 3mm holes in aluminum on the XCarve (with a DeWalt). I never even considered it could be "bad" because it just worked.
Yeah, I've managed to drill up to 5mm holes in my CNC router (Vfd-controlled Chinese spindle, 3hp) but anything beyond that just gives sadness.
Thank you for sharing this. I am looking at getting a simple CNC for making holes for cribbage boards. This info is useful. Do you have any opinion on whether a $250 Sain Smart 3018 Pro unit from Amazon would be sufficient for this? I'd hate to spend more than necessary for this one purpose.
Thank you.
From the videos I've seen, it really doesn't look that great. Has trouble engraving a straight line if you go too fast. The time spent babying the machine is not worth saving a couple hundred dollars. If you plan on selling more than a handful of boards, get a better CNC.
@@WinstonMakes Thank you! Good to know.
@@DavZell I have one, it's decent for cutting soft woods at low feederates. The main thing to remember is that its a 200 dollar router and not to expect anything too crazy.
Please make a vacuum former!
Hi Winston, I'm just starting out with a CNC, what would you recommend fusion 360 or cut 2D. I have no experience with such programs and realise it will be a sharp learning curve, but not wishing to spend too much time learning the wrong programme. I have purchased a Ooznest CNC as they are based in the UK. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Regards, Will
Personally I recommend fusion 360, partly because it's the only one I know. It has a nice interface and if you use it purely for hobby use or business under a certain level of income then it's free, you can even do various milling, turning, 5 axis, and simulations on your models. It sounds like a lot but the interface is divided up really nicely and is pretty easy to use.
I agree with LazyH. Fusion 360 is very common and you will be able to find almost everything you need from learning to small little features you wouldn’t know were there online. As LazyH said, it is free for many use cases and the interface is great once you know a little about how to get around. Hope this helps! Happy CNC-ing!
@@lazyh-online4839 thanks for the advice;-)
@@samuelforgie2771 thanks for the advice;-)
1:27 Hahaha, brilliant!
I have programmed CNC machines with multi tool heads. No, you don’t use the cutting tool spindle for drilling, there’s separate tooling for that. We are of course talking about machines that will still cost you $50,000 used. A lot depends on the tooling you are using no especially the material you are cutting and drilling into.
Looked up the cutting speeds. Turns out, the optimal rpms for wood are 16 000/Diameter. Thats mad.
Really depressing to see an exciting idea be taken out and shot by a large company once again. We still need a tool like that for the individual that isn't entirely based on a mega-corp. :(
I've read in a few places that one issue is the use of collets with standard drill bits. It's to do with standard drill bits usually being marked by stamping the size on the shank.
This causes issues in collets if the stamping has burrs, making them difficult to clamp in collets without damaging the collet and/or running slightly eccentric. Laser marked drills don't have this problem.
I did notice this actually. The cheap "long" drill bits I was showing for demonstration had to be inserted through the top of the collet because the stamped portion would not fit through the bottom.
Has anyone tried Dremel drill bits?
How terribly optimized is fusion 360, Design Spark just now handled 10k holes on my 2015 AMD chip from the A10 series with a fraction of a second process time and 600MB of RAM
I see a project for you if you haven't already by now. Wrenches for your collet nut!
Get drill bits made for wood and look up speeds and feeds for hard and soft wood. Probably 2500-3000 RPM and like .005" per rev. And don't peck it just adds cycle time. if you were drilling something harder or much deeper then you should probably peck.
i once had a drill bit pick up a 40lbs jig + workpiece and spin it around like a mace... trust... you don't want that happening :D
That happened to me too last year in our workshop, it was spinning like crazy, my brain was malfunctioning, I turned the machine off and tried to stop my aluminum block with my bare hand. That hurts extremely :D
But it was nothing severely damaged (except for my finger and I had to drill a new block)
well you know your router rpm speed if you cant addjust it, but highspeed drill bit so you can use it lol.its like butter,but is there that kind bits for wood xD well then you just do it small bit oi oi xD
This sounds awfully familiar... :D
This old tony.... 😀 👍
Winston, I'd be interested to know why to despise oak. I've just used it for the first time found it to machine really well. It was tough on the bits during the final cutout procedure but still turned out well.
Some oak is okay. Hardware store-grade red oak has really course fiber structures that pull out almost as badly as Zebrawood, and has that nice tannic acid smell. Overall, just not pleasant to machine. Also, there's a whole cult of people who find red oak cabinets and furniture to be quite dated, though I find it less offensive in that regard.
Winston Moy thanks. I’m in the U.K. and using offcuts from a joiners so maybe a different species : grade of oak.
👍👍👍