Keep reminding yourself that this is "real world" and "real person" on a "real budget" and its all for (mostly!!) fun! You may not realize it, whether you wanted to or not, you ARE educating people! Keep smiling and you rock!😉
I really like this comment mate. I have a business in high performance automotive and everyone now thinks unless you have 1000hp with a stock motor your no good. People dont understand simple is ok and everything takes time to get right
You should keep an eye for some used vortec heads and intake manifold on Craigslist or go to a salvage yard and pull some yourself. They will wake that truck up a bit.
riley galloway I was thinking the same thing. Vortec heads aren’t the greatest in the world, but on a shoe string budget they have some good flow for a stock head.
It will also skyrocket the compression ratio. Vortec heads have much smaller cc chambers. The large chamber heads on this are probably what's keeping it (almost) right at 10lbs. It would take alot more than just slapping some vortec heads on there.
Vortecs seats like to crack between the valves, you can get fuelie 2.02's pretty cheap now, and it doesnt take much work to get the 25 hp extra back that the vortecs make. Easiest 25 hp gain is stick your finger in the roof of the exhaust port where the header bolts on. Where you feel that lump, grind it out. Thats an old Hot Rod magazine trick that was 25 hp on the dyno. If you do some reading its not hard to get another 25 hp on top of that 25. Try and find the 462 castings.
Seems pretty accurate if it's a true stock 350 was prob only rated at around 200 at flywheel so prob hitting around 360 at flywheel now with 9lbs seems dead on, but a stock 350 bottom end will handle more then a person thinks, I had a stock tbi motor just better head gaskets, bolts and 1.6 rockers, with a blow threw carb and a rear mount 70mm and it went 12.20s @ 114 in a 90s sw @ 15lbs, No idea hp guessed 500ish with diesel torque but it ran well..
I'm glad to see u finished and went thru with this project, I remember seeing ur unboxing video way back , nice to see u got it done , but a nice turbo carb would be nice and go for some more power later .keep it up
Its a bad o-ring on the needle valve when it still has fuel almost all the way shut, and floods when u slightly adjust it off bottom, assuming your float tab is set correctly
You will get it lined out. I have a 83c10 that I swapped a 454 then turbo. I have a blow through carb. It was a stock Holley 750 that I made work with blow through. The only problem is I can’t keep back tires on it. A blow off valve will do wonders, it will keep the turbo spoiled up and will help to not run lean after a shift which a blow through setup
I'm happy to see this thing running I've wanted to do something like this for years good on you for making it happen dude many of us dream of making something happen so very few of us actually make it there
@@Harrybowles1969 I think he meant 4 speed manual, probably a Muncie SM465, which will indeed take all that torque and then beg for more.... They're a glutton for abuse. You're absolutely right though, I wouldn't trust a 700r4 in a gokart, let alone a turbo build...
Just needs a new needle and seat and you should be fine. Might get the foam floats just to be safe. I paid big money for a CSU carb and it worked great after a bit of tuning on the 5.3 in my 69 c10. I've got a 600 Holley 2 barrel that that's on a 4.8 in a s10 i'm building I'm gonna blow though. Just putting a foam float in it and an ebay boost ref power valve and see what happens, lol.
It actually isn't necessary on a blow thru carb set up. When the compressed air hits the atomizing fuel in the carb temp drop like crazy, literally 100 degrees plus. Edit: sorry just remembered that 100 degrees F plus is if you're running an alcohol or nitromethane based setup. Gas will still drop like 50 deg.
@@jeremyeubanks2387 no lol I haven't personally run nitro in a blow-thru set up. I would like to one day though. I just wanted to clarify because I knew that it dropped temps, but after posting that I remembered that the really big drops happen when running the thinner higher energy stuff, which I only know because I know people that do it.
tony zooks just saying, if carbs were a thing -we'd still be using them. I'm thinking he prefers carb because of "user tuning control abilities". There so many base tune software that plug and play, I can't imagine why he'd feel this way about carb.
Some people are scared of electronics. In all honesty the sniper EFI by Holley would be a perfect for this setup. Carbs are good for old school guys who just want simplicity, EFI is for guys who don’t like opening their hoods every time they start their rig to adjust the carb
Andrew Beeman yup.. I agree! The carb folks are missing out on massive gains. With a holly setup you mention acme a good street tune, he'll pickup a guaranteed 75hp almost with better response and fuel economy
@@partsshooter he is right. Fuel injection is bullshit. The only benefit i can see is gas mileage what other purpose does it serve that is actually useful
Sounds like a old gas burner dump truck from the 70s one of those missing on at least one cylinder and a blown out glass pack muffler. Lol everyone wants a farm truck now.
Isn't your dad's uncle's friend the one the FBI came to take away for making crazy numbers on a home made Dyno back in the 70s with the first turbo sbc build?
A Holley XP would really do this engine Justice... They are much easier to fine tune in a boosted application (imo) they have larger fuel bowls to help prevent going lean. Also they have baffling to protect aeration and slosh. Well worth the $$
Oh yeah love it ! glad to see shes up and running! nice to see someone keeping the sbc alive! im doing one also could use all the tips along the way for sure! nice job! keep them vids coming !!
For the frame confinement’s I was thinking either a supercharger, or a procharger would’ve been the better option. I know the eBay turbo kit was probably an experiment, but with money and time spent there would’ve been better performance. I’m not one who likes chomping bits out of the frame unless it’s absolutely necessary, and doubling up what I took out.
Add some runner length to your pipe work. This will help cool the charge and increase torque. That mechanical fuel pump will never keep up with the engine on any 1/4 mile pulls. And lastly, this may be crazy... but what if you installed all that turbo kit on the driver side on the bay. (Obvious run a smaller brake booster or even a street rod booster under the floorboard...and if you had a rack & pinion it would be easy as pie). I bet money that the Japanese techs read the blueprint backwards.
Blow through setups with a carburatuer are insanely hard to dial in...good job though i give you guys credit....not everyone can afford a brand new everything...check the fuel pressure when your at the top of the power curve
I had the same problem until i got rid of that carb hat style and went with a more smoother transition type of hat, the H.P went up high too after that..
Could you try a draw through setup? Ive never turbocharged a vehicle but i figure you could have saved money using a draw through setup and it might help atomize the fuel better, no?
I did very similar with my 1976 bonanza chevy c10 but not me i had a close friend and his brother work on my build truck for about 2 years but they got it down to perfection...its more for the low rpms but somehow i have 3 times more range in my rpms now and of course alot more power but my point is turbo and a strong 350 motor will make some serious donkeypower.....stock transmission and stock height ...dyno is on my 2 do list of many ...love the video....
The carbs have come a long way, but they're still tricky when used with boost . I suppose you could run it inside a box like I did with my R22 Toyota engine once .
Pay attention before attempting to make an asshole comment lol keep making dumb comments people but don't be surprised if this ends up being the next Farm Truck. This is where it all starts
@@joshschonfeld3675 I'll be 1 of the ones not looking like an idiot when he does get it on point, he's on the right track and it'll prove you don't need to dump thousands to have a bad ass boosted carb'd sbc and can do it all at home like an average guy who play on a budget lol
On paper , if you put the whole carb in a pressurized box , it’ll work fine. No doubt some things will need mods though. The linkages and shit are a hassle I guess. Didn’t someone make a supercharger kit where the whole carb was in a box that bolts to the intake ? Coulda swore I saw pics of one years ago in a magazine ad.
@@FuelInjectionSucks how is the 9000 hp RV going 16s in the quarter ha ha ha ha ha ha ha just cause it has a China turbo on it doesn't mean it's fast ha ha ha ha ha ha
I checked out your channel to see a real car, but there was just a purple icon of your missing avatar and 8 subscribers. Disappointed, I thought I'd see some real muscle.
Funny to think if you throw a 3/4 cam in it with some 2.02 heads and upgrade intake she’lll probbaly make the same if not more power but naturally aspirated and way cheaper
Looks like a TBI era V8. That is what mine is (1994) Mine makes 220 HP stock. Bone stock with a turbo is maybe 250 hp-ish. I agree that FI sucks, but with a turbo FI is the way to go. If you are going to put a carb on it then you should extend that carburetor hood to enclose the entire carburetor to equalize pressure inside and out of the carb, and then dial your fuel pressure up above your boost pressure. Ideally, fuel pressure should increase as your boost builds. Stock carb fuel pressure is around 6-8 pounds, and you are running 9 lbs of boost... do you see a problem here? There are special carbs for turbo systems that will cost you more than your entire project if you want to just keep throwing money at it, but better to do some research, and replace the correct parts with parts that will work together toward your goal. Much easier on the old carb technology, and you MAY get 300HP. You are trying to overcome crappy heads, replacing the heads with vortec heads and the cam with bit stronger cam might get you 500 HP eventually with some other mods... basically, you can't just throw a spiked collar on a beagle, and expect to turn it into a Rottweiler. Sorry to bring the bad news. I'll sub the channel and give you a thumb up for having heart, and for tackling a tough project! :)
Replace the O rings on the needle valves, or better yet get the high flow needle valves with stainless needle and seats. That solved my flooding problem. Oh and get rid of the power valve and jet up the rears 8 - 10 sizes, this will eliminate another variable in the tuning.
You need to find an old school tuner. The first and simplest thing you do not to waste a day(or weeks in this case) is a rebuild kit on the carb. That will include two new float valves and all the gaskets. Start with open sight plugs. Scrap the $2 plugs and start over. I would also start with a plug for the power valves, a set of different accelerator ramps, bigger nossels if needed and a afr gauge is a must with the turbo. Get lean and get a new motor. Start rich and low(or no(disconnect the turbo for now)) boost till proper afr is achieved.
you'd be better off with a 402 big block. set of cheap headers, intake, lopey cam. it'd make more power and torque than that setup any day. on the other hand, go with a procharger.
I was going to suggest a Holley EFI, then I saw your channel’s name. I commend you on your efforts. This might be a really dumb suggestion, but have you considered a 2 barrel like is run on dirt cars?
Chase G. he's running a boost-referenced mechanical fuel pump (vacuum hose from the intake is run to a port put on the non-fuel side of the fuel pump diaphragm)
Good stuff! Man you get some meat head comments. Guessing you started with the hanger 18 mods on the Holley and curious what kind of torque #’s did it make.
The carb has to be set up for boost- you cant just send gobs of air through it. Probably pressurising the bowls. Also have to have a variable rate fuel delivery system under boost - 4>5psi constant isn't gonna cut it. 1:1 boost to fuel.
you'd expect a stock modern ls type engine to make that kind of power nowadays is that a 305 or a 350 ? wat kind of heads does i has (smog era?) heared some raves about stock iron vortec heads for the old style small blocks , doesnt cost a lot but adds decent power over the older heads
I've got a '74 k20, nothing special about it at all but I'd drive these old trucks and fix them all day over something new, idc if someone will walk all over me with an LS, hell I have one but come on these are just cool
Is the carb a turbo/supercharger specific? That may be your problem. if the carb is designed for NA applications, then the added boost will send the wrong signals and possibly cause your flooding issues
Are they hard to install? I don't know my ass from a hole in the ground when it comes to carbs and they seem so finicky. Anyways I've been thinking of getting something like that for my old 454 that's in my 74 c10
Is this the gt45 kit? If so did you have any issues with anything? And what else did you do to the motor? I have a 74 C10 and someone newr me is selling the kit for super cheap
Keep reminding yourself that this is "real world" and "real person" on a "real budget" and its all for (mostly!!) fun! You may not realize it, whether you wanted to or not, you ARE educating people! Keep smiling and you rock!😉
I really like this comment mate. I have a business in high performance automotive and everyone now thinks unless you have 1000hp with a stock motor your no good. People dont understand simple is ok and everything takes time to get right
make sure the o ring seal on the seat assembly its self isn't bad. I've seen them harden up and fuel seep past the seat and flood out.
Nothing wrong with this setup. Especially considering your probably doubled the the stock output with only 8psi. Good job, awesome build
Can tell it’s a pa truck when you see the yellow road paint in the wheel wells.
I love the sound of a turbo SBC. Nice job, makes me want a turbo on my truck.
You should keep an eye for some used vortec heads and intake manifold on Craigslist or go to a salvage yard and pull some yourself. They will wake that truck up a bit.
riley galloway I was thinking the same thing. Vortec heads aren’t the greatest in the world, but on a shoe string budget they have some good flow for a stock head.
It will also skyrocket the compression ratio. Vortec heads have much smaller cc chambers. The large chamber heads on this are probably what's keeping it (almost) right at 10lbs. It would take alot more than just slapping some vortec heads on there.
Vortecs seats like to crack between the valves, you can get fuelie 2.02's pretty cheap now, and it doesnt take much work to get the 25 hp extra back that the vortecs make. Easiest 25 hp gain is stick your finger in the roof of the exhaust port where the header bolts on. Where you feel that lump, grind it out. Thats an old Hot Rod magazine trick that was 25 hp on the dyno. If you do some reading its not hard to get another 25 hp on top of that 25. Try and find the 462 castings.
Yes they will
Seems pretty accurate if it's a true stock 350 was prob only rated at around 200 at flywheel so prob hitting around 360 at flywheel now with 9lbs seems dead on, but a stock 350 bottom end will handle more then a person thinks, I had a stock tbi motor just better head gaskets, bolts and 1.6 rockers, with a blow threw carb and a rear mount 70mm and it went 12.20s @ 114 in a 90s sw @ 15lbs, No idea hp guessed 500ish with diesel torque but it ran well..
If it's a C10 it might be a 305.
Did you ever tow with it ?
I'm glad to see u finished and went thru with this project, I remember seeing ur unboxing video way back , nice to see u got it done , but a nice turbo carb would be nice and go for some more power later .keep it up
Matt is a saint. Cleaned up needle and seat plus vent tube extensions should improve performance. Bring your jet kit with. Nice work!
Its a bad o-ring on the needle valve when it still has fuel almost all the way shut, and floods when u slightly adjust it off bottom, assuming your float tab is set correctly
You will get it lined out. I have a 83c10 that I swapped a 454 then turbo. I have a blow through carb. It was a stock Holley 750 that I made work with blow through. The only problem is I can’t keep back tires on it. A blow off valve will do wonders, it will keep the turbo spoiled up and will help to not run lean after a shift which a blow through setup
Did you ever tow with it ?
I'm happy to see this thing running I've wanted to do something like this for years good on you for making it happen dude many of us dream of making something happen so very few of us actually make it there
Nice pickup👍🏼 - once you get everything figured out it’s going to be a blast!!!keep em coming!
With carb sorted its should make an easy 350 at the wheels. Cool project. Will be a fun driver with that 4 speed
700r4 won't last long it's not strong enough for turbo torque
@@Harrybowles1969 I think he meant 4 speed manual, probably a Muncie SM465, which will indeed take all that torque and then beg for more.... They're a glutton for abuse. You're absolutely right though, I wouldn't trust a 700r4 in a gokart, let alone a turbo build...
Just needs a new needle and seat and you should be fine. Might get the foam floats just to be safe. I paid big money for a CSU carb and it worked great after a bit of tuning on the 5.3 in my 69 c10. I've got a 600 Holley 2 barrel that that's on a 4.8 in a s10 i'm building I'm gonna blow though. Just putting a foam float in it and an ebay boost ref power valve and see what happens, lol.
On my first turbo chevy 350 I had to use solid floats. My original ones never adjusted well .
add nitrous, that'll lean it out if its flooded
Oh and an intercooler would be a REALLY REALLY REALLY nice addition to your build brother
I cringed, cool build but intercooler would be a plus!
It actually isn't necessary on a blow thru carb set up. When the compressed air hits the atomizing fuel in the carb temp drop like crazy, literally 100 degrees plus.
Edit: sorry just remembered that 100 degrees F plus is if you're running an alcohol or nitromethane based setup. Gas will still drop like 50 deg.
@@QuantumLeap83 so your running nitro thru that truck and boost ?? Holy shit my bad your the man
@@jeremyeubanks2387 no lol I haven't personally run nitro in a blow-thru set up. I would like to one day though.
I just wanted to clarify because I knew that it dropped temps, but after posting that I remembered that the really big drops happen when running the thinner higher energy stuff, which I only know because I know people that do it.
You got the start of one heck of a powerful truck
"Fuel Injection Sucks" 6:43 😂😂
Not bashing, just funny.
tony zooks just saying, if carbs were a thing -we'd still be using them. I'm thinking he prefers carb because of "user tuning control abilities". There so many base tune software that plug and play, I can't imagine why he'd feel this way about carb.
Some people are scared of electronics. In all honesty the sniper EFI by Holley would be a perfect for this setup.
Carbs are good for old school guys who just want simplicity, EFI is for guys who don’t like opening their hoods every time they start their rig to adjust the carb
Andrew Beeman yup.. I agree! The carb folks are missing out on massive gains. With a holly setup you mention acme a good street tune, he'll pickup a guaranteed 75hp almost with better response and fuel economy
Shit it does
@@partsshooter he is right. Fuel injection is bullshit. The only benefit i can see is gas mileage what other purpose does it serve that is actually useful
Finally gets to see the dyno . keep us updated please
You and Sloppy can pass for brothers lol
I thought it was him.. until I scrolled to the comments
I was sitting here watching a Sloppy Matt dyno a GTO vid, saw the thumbnail, and thought "that looks like Matts dyno spot..."
Whiskey Tango Foxtrot Over ha! I recognized it too. Then heard him in the video. Then saw him. In that order. Lol
Bitchin' to see it running. Good luck working the kinks out. Love this truck!
Love carburetors, keep building that 73
Sounds like a old gas burner dump truck from the 70s one of those missing on at least one cylinder and a blown out glass pack muffler. Lol everyone wants a farm truck now.
An Intercooler would do you a LOT of good, as well as a blow through carb, if not a tbi system.
Yep throttle body injection would stop the flood and settle that motor a bit.. carb is jus to primitive for boost
😂
NEVER GONNA MAKE 500 PONIES
FUCKING VALVE COVERS SUCKING UP 300 HP right there
Justin, it should have made at least 500 whp because my dad's, uncle's, friend says he saw a guy with a turbo v8 and it made 500 whp.
A stock junkyard 250k 5.3 is will do 700 hp stock a few runs on a decent turbo .....
Isn't your dad's uncle's friend the one the FBI came to take away for making crazy numbers on a home made Dyno back in the 70s with the first turbo sbc build?
So glad I found this channel great job I'm loving it 👍
A Holley XP would really do this engine Justice... They are much easier to fine tune in a boosted application (imo) they have larger fuel bowls to help prevent going lean. Also they have baffling to protect aeration and slosh. Well worth the $$
made the same power my 305 did with 7 psi! interesting well it made 268 but basically the same
anyone can swap a ls in its funner to push what you have to the limits first then step up
Oh yeah love it ! glad to see shes up and running! nice to see someone keeping the sbc alive! im doing one also could use all the tips along the way for sure! nice job! keep them vids coming !!
Holley carb needs Brass floats not the plastic ones it comes with?
There’s a reason they make blow through carbs
I just want to see it do a smokey burnout!
For the frame confinement’s I was thinking either a supercharger, or a procharger would’ve been the better option.
I know the eBay turbo kit was probably an experiment, but with money and time spent there would’ve been better performance.
I’m not one who likes chomping bits out of the frame unless it’s absolutely necessary, and doubling up what I took out.
Add some runner length to your pipe work. This will help cool the charge and increase torque. That mechanical fuel pump will never keep up with the engine on any 1/4 mile pulls. And lastly, this may be crazy... but what if you installed all that turbo kit on the driver side on the bay. (Obvious run a smaller brake booster or even a street rod booster under the floorboard...and if you had a rack & pinion it would be easy as pie). I bet money that the Japanese techs read the blueprint backwards.
This is just some having some good times shit right here! Gotta love it!
Blow through setups with a carburatuer are insanely hard to dial in...good job though i give you guys credit....not everyone can afford a brand new everything...check the fuel pressure when your at the top of the power curve
You can when the whole kit is 699$
A sloppy Kramer production... This thing is awesome!
You can see a plug wire off at the last dyno pull
I had the same problem until i got rid of that carb hat style and went with a more smoother transition type of hat, the H.P went up high too after that..
Could you try a draw through setup? Ive never turbocharged a vehicle but i figure you could have saved money using a draw through setup and it might help atomize the fuel better, no?
Draw through suck don't make as much power and for some reason make car run hotter
I did very similar with my 1976 bonanza chevy c10 but not me i had a close friend and his brother work on my build truck for about 2 years but they got it down to perfection...its more for the low rpms but somehow i have 3 times more range in my rpms now and of course alot more power but my point is turbo and a strong 350 motor will make some serious donkeypower.....stock transmission and stock height ...dyno is on my 2 do list of many ...love the video....
Tell us why fuel injection sucks again? Lol just kidding. Keep it up dude! Awesome to see different stuff.
@@mewrongwayKOCXF Aaaaaa... I see what you did there!!
Sounds like alot more power then 260hp though lol
The carbs have come a long way, but they're still tricky when used with boost . I suppose you could run it inside a box like I did with my R22 Toyota engine once .
Mmm. Sloppy.
And no matter what you do carbs are not designed to be blown through with pressure unless you buy one made specifically for that purpose
Good thing I have one on it.
Pay attention before attempting to make an asshole comment lol keep making dumb comments people but don't be surprised if this ends up being the next Farm Truck. This is where it all starts
@@joshschonfeld3675 I'll be 1 of the ones not looking like an idiot when he does get it on point, he's on the right track and it'll prove you don't need to dump thousands to have a bad ass boosted carb'd sbc and can do it all at home like an average guy who play on a budget lol
Pretty sure he done a video when he was putting his blow through carb on
On paper , if you put the whole carb in a pressurized box , it’ll work fine.
No doubt some things will need mods though.
The linkages and shit are a hassle I guess.
Didn’t someone make a supercharger kit where the whole carb was in a box that bolts to the intake ?
Coulda swore I saw pics of one years ago in a magazine ad.
Yeah, I know this is old, but hope all is well with you guys. Fun video.
Stock 96 LTI puts around 260 to the tires
How many times did you have to change the opti when it was strapped to the rollers?
@@FuelInjectionSucks how is the 9000 hp RV going 16s in the quarter ha ha ha ha ha ha ha just cause it has a China turbo on it doesn't mean it's fast ha ha ha ha ha ha
I checked out your channel to see a real car, but there was just a purple icon of your missing avatar and 8 subscribers. Disappointed, I thought I'd see some real muscle.
@@Psykam
Your comment goes the exact opposite way of what he was saying. Good job.
Funny to think if you throw a 3/4 cam in it with some 2.02 heads and upgrade intake she’lll probbaly make the same if not more power but naturally aspirated and way cheaper
If I travel back to 1978 sure.
@@FuelInjectionSucks
Did you ever tow with it ?
Also do you remember what your timing was set at here ?
Looks like a TBI era V8. That is what mine is (1994) Mine makes 220 HP stock. Bone stock with a turbo is maybe 250 hp-ish. I agree that FI sucks, but with a turbo FI is the way to go. If you are going to put a carb on it then you should extend that carburetor hood to enclose the entire carburetor to equalize pressure inside and out of the carb, and then dial your fuel pressure up above your boost pressure. Ideally, fuel pressure should increase as your boost builds. Stock carb fuel pressure is around 6-8 pounds, and you are running 9 lbs of boost... do you see a problem here? There are special carbs for turbo systems that will cost you more than your entire project if you want to just keep throwing money at it, but better to do some research, and replace the correct parts with parts that will work together toward your goal.
Much easier on the old carb technology, and you MAY get 300HP. You are trying to overcome crappy heads, replacing the heads with vortec heads and the cam with bit stronger cam might get you 500 HP eventually with some other mods... basically, you can't just throw a spiked collar on a beagle, and expect to turn it into a Rottweiler. Sorry to bring the bad news.
I'll sub the channel and give you a thumb up for having heart, and for tackling a tough project! :)
Replace the O rings on the needle valves, or better yet get the high flow needle valves with stainless needle and seats. That solved my flooding problem. Oh and get rid of the power valve and jet up the rears 8 - 10 sizes, this will eliminate another variable in the tuning.
I would not want to go over 10 lbs boost on a cast bottom end. But curious how much the old small block took .
I'm hoping to max out at 15psi or so on mine.. we'll see what it puts out
Nice square!! Cool build!
Man you need an intercooler on that thing yesterday.
Yes he'll have to buy another good quality part, right?
I was gunna buy the nitrophile ones but I had some extra regular plastic ones and they've held up ever since
Never let it get below 7 lb of fuel pressure ever or it will run too lean
You need to find an old school tuner. The first and simplest thing you do not to waste a day(or weeks in this case) is a rebuild kit on the carb. That will include two new float valves and all the gaskets. Start with open sight plugs. Scrap the $2 plugs and start over. I would also start with a plug for the power valves, a set of different accelerator ramps, bigger nossels if needed and a afr gauge is a must with the turbo. Get lean and get a new motor. Start rich and low(or no(disconnect the turbo for now)) boost till proper afr is achieved.
Yeah, did all that.
Do you have nitrophyl floats? Try something like a 68/79 jets and a vent tube extension on the secondary
Yup. I'm adding the vent tubes and going again.
Quick question, new to boosting a carbureted motor, where would I hook my boost gauge up at ? Bov or what? Sorry for the random question
Your carb isn't set up for that turbo and what's your timing at? Cool truck
you'd be better off with a 402 big block. set of cheap headers, intake, lopey cam. it'd make more power and torque than that setup any day. on the other hand, go with a procharger.
If you built a full exhaust system for it then you would have one hell of a sleeper!
EksCelle a sleeper is a fast vehicle this is just a shit truck that would lose to a new suv
I was going to suggest a Holley EFI, then I saw your channel’s name. I commend you on your efforts. This might be a really dumb suggestion, but have you considered a 2 barrel like is run on dirt cars?
Are you using a boost reference fuel pressure regulator? Also, I bet a little methanol or an E85 conversion would do wonders on that thing.
Chase G. he's running a boost-referenced mechanical fuel pump (vacuum hose from the intake is run to a port put on the non-fuel side of the fuel pump diaphragm)
CSU makes proven blow through carbs I would pick one up.
Has one
With the issues worked out you should get about 350hp 390+tq.
Good stuff! Man you get some meat head comments. Guessing you started with the hanger 18 mods on the Holley and curious what kind of torque #’s did it make.
jets jets jets. Sometimes one digit up or down is the sweet spot.
Plugs are probably fouled after all those carb issues. Pull a couple and make sure they're not part of your problem now.
Are you running a boost referenced electric fuel pump.
About time lol! Awesome build.
The random lawn mower drive by. 😂
That thing was smokin like a damn diesel
Did you check the plugs?
You're running more boost than fuel pressure.....could that be the problem?
No I'm not.
have you had any ping issues without knock control?
If you happen to see this, how much is actually done to this engine besides the turbo?
The carb has to be set up for boost- you cant just send gobs of air through it. Probably pressurising the bowls. Also have to have a variable rate fuel delivery system under boost - 4>5psi constant isn't gonna cut it. 1:1 boost to fuel.
Yup, have both.
you'd expect a stock modern ls type engine to make that kind of power nowadays
is that a 305 or a 350 ?
wat kind of heads does i has (smog era?) heared some raves about stock iron vortec heads for the old style small blocks , doesnt cost a lot but adds decent power over the older heads
It's a smog headed 350. I have Vortecs on my Chevelle 350 and it makes more power than this NA.
I've got a '74 k20, nothing special about it at all but I'd drive these old trucks and fix them all day over something new, idc if someone will walk all over me with an LS, hell I have one but come on these are just cool
You have more vids on this build, I'm wanting to do the same thing, same year truck, bad as*
Looks like carburetors suck this time.
ive seen naturally aspirated 305's put out that much power...chuck the turbo or get an efi set up on there that can take being blown into
stickloaf more like file 13 the turbo and run something other than a junkyard carb.
Is the carb a turbo/supercharger specific? That may be your problem. if the carb is designed for NA applications, then the added boost will send the wrong signals and possibly cause your flooding issues
Modified for blow through using Hanger18 mods.
Put a sniper efi on it you will love it.. Best 1200 i ever spent..
Are they hard to install? I don't know my ass from a hole in the ground when it comes to carbs and they seem so finicky. Anyways I've been thinking of getting something like that for my old 454 that's in my 74 c10
Little bit bigger cam and vortec heads should get u AT least 500. If you make 250-300 hp n/a then @15 psi it should make 500-600
You don't run big cam with forced air
Low compression pistons and turbo grind cam
and this is when fuel injection is mmmmmmmmmmmmk
Not really.
@@Shade_tree_garage01 yes,really.i bet this isnt a proper blow through carb either,just a jury rigged pos
Is this the gt45 kit? If so did you have any issues with anything? And what else did you do to the motor? I have a 74 C10 and someone newr me is selling the kit for super cheap
Had to modify nearly every aspect of the kit. Nothing fit. Engine is a bone stock smogger with cam and valve springs.
Needs a intercooler!
badass!!!! ima try that on my 350💪😎
Time for fuel injection. Sounds like it had a dead cylinder too...
did u put electric fuel pump or kept the manual one on?
How my whp did you end up making i wanna buy one!!!
change that fuel pressure gauge the liquid one's read less pressure if they are hot.
it should have made 500hp because it's a turbo V8