Thanks for the videos. This is effectively helping me (a dirty Yank), fix up my own ST1100 and find where and how to get things apart. Wirhout breaking them.....again.
Going well. In front of the air filter/box there are two tubes running into a rectangular box which contains a “pre-filter” which should be inspected/replaced.
You may wish to consider replacing all coolant hoses, especially under the carbs. A bit of a pain ....they do become brittle and cause grief. Check the main loom ground, located on the left side by the folding grab handle or left pannier rail. If the ground is loose it can cause the temp gauge to indicate hot. By hooking an ohm meter to the temp sender just below the thermostat you can monitor when the thermostat opens up and when the fan kicks in. The fan kicks in around 28 ohms and turns off around 31 ohms. Good luck with the servicing.
Thanks for the tip and your support , i did check the loom ground off camera and it was corroded and loose, need to save some penny's for a new set of coolant hoses
The Amateur Bike Builder the other weak spot is the main relay connector. The one with the 30 amp fuse. 3 wires going into a red hitachi connector. That gets compromised. Inspect and clean and apply dielectric grease. It’s usually the red wire in that connector that burns out. Just keep plugging on. Coolant hoses may be the winter project.
The Amateur Bike Builder did you discover the overheating prior to fixing the ground? Or after. The fan usually kicks in just past the 12 o’clock position indicated on the temp gauge. Does the fan cycle on and off? I ask these questions as I went through a great deal of expense replacing everything in the cooling system only to find I had a bad ground.. you said you had a bad ground and the temp gauge indicates overheating and your fan comes on.....I know of a few others that have had these symptoms.
Hi, the overheating happened first, while i was away on Hols, then it happened again on the way home , then probably 60 miles on the bike lost power and stopped, thats when i found the the bad ground and corroded plug on the relay with the 30amp fuse, tightened and cleaned bike rode home ok, as i found the overflow pipe was blocked and cracked and the bottle was clogged as well
Hello , bei Montage von den Zündkerzen nehme ich immer ein wenig Keramikpaste oder Kupferpaste . Dann geht es beim nächsten rausschrauben einfacher und man beschädigt nicht das Gewinde. Ich schreibe auf dem Luftfilter immer KM und Datum um zu sehen wie lange es braucht bis er wieder dreckig ist oder Ersetzt werden muss. Top Job 👍🏻 Gruss von Mario aus der Schweiz 🇨🇭😉
Nice bike. I got a 2000 ST1100 with 25,000 miles on it and my rear abs pump isn't working according to my bike mechanic. The front brake make the front and back to stop. The rear brake just don't work when I press on the rear brake. The shop claim the rear abs pump is $1500
Thanks Mark,First of all have you checked the rear caliper ? as it has a combined braking system, check the rear hoses as well, because if it is the ABS MODULATOR pump, here in the UK is nearly £1500 new from Honda, so the price he has given you is about right, you could look for a second hand pump on Ebay, there are quite a few about and alot cheaper then new, hope that helps
I did enjoy your video but you didn't show how to do the fluid coolant change in steps which was my main concern. Pls If you could do i will appreciate it a lot. Thanks Calvin
Thanks Marcel, appreciate your comment and the link, everything was coming apart as alot of work to do, but will keep it in mind when i just want to do plugs
Great videos, pity you didn't show the type of spark plug you fitted and what you gapped it at, are you meant to use some thread lock on plugs? I'd like to see a vid of renewing all the coolant hoses sometime, a job I'm not really looking forward too.
Thanks for the comment, just used NGK plugs and gapped according to the manual,no never thread locked plugs, never heard of it ever being done... i will in time renew the coolant hoses not looking forward to it either, just replaced them on my Busa that was bad enough
I used iridium plugs,I just fitted them straight from the box!! that was a few years ago and the bike is running perfectly. The coolant hoses is just more preventive maintenance, that and a new timing belt sometime. They are fantastic bikes and well worth the effort to maintain them properly.
Datatool alarm.....???....just de wired mine, on my st1100.....bikes lot happier, and no more battery drain, suffered it for three years......biggest piece of crap going,
Thanks for the videos. This is effectively helping me (a dirty Yank), fix up my own ST1100 and find where and how to get things apart. Wirhout breaking them.....again.
Glad to help
Enjoying the video series on all your bikes, brilliant work 👍
Thanks Ivan, appreciate your support
Going well. In front of the air filter/box there are two tubes running into a rectangular box which contains a “pre-filter” which should be inspected/replaced.
Thanks Edward, i have that filter on order
You may wish to consider replacing all coolant hoses, especially under the carbs. A bit of a pain ....they do become brittle and cause grief. Check the main loom ground, located on the left side by the folding grab handle or left pannier rail. If the ground is loose it can cause the temp gauge to indicate hot. By hooking an ohm meter to the temp sender just below the thermostat you can monitor when the thermostat opens up and when the fan kicks in. The fan kicks in around 28 ohms and turns off around 31 ohms. Good luck with the servicing.
Thanks for the tip and your support , i did check the loom ground off camera and it was corroded and loose, need to save some penny's for a new set of coolant hoses
The Amateur Bike Builder the other weak spot is the main relay connector. The one with the 30 amp fuse. 3 wires going into a red hitachi connector. That gets compromised. Inspect and clean and apply dielectric grease. It’s usually the red wire in that connector that burns out. Just keep plugging on. Coolant hoses may be the winter project.
yep thats the one that caused me to break down on the M1 motorway on my way home, now replaced , thanks again, really appreciate your help
The Amateur Bike Builder did you discover the overheating prior to fixing the ground? Or after. The fan usually kicks in just past the 12 o’clock position indicated on the temp gauge. Does the fan cycle on and off? I ask these questions as I went through a great deal of expense replacing everything in the cooling system only to find I had a bad ground.. you said you had a bad ground and the temp gauge indicates overheating and your fan comes on.....I know of a few others that have had these symptoms.
Hi, the overheating happened first, while i was away on Hols, then it happened again on the way home , then probably 60 miles on the bike lost power and stopped, thats when i found the the bad ground and corroded plug on the relay with the 30amp fuse, tightened and cleaned bike rode home ok, as i found the overflow pipe was blocked and cracked and the bottle was clogged as well
Hello , bei Montage von den Zündkerzen nehme ich immer ein wenig Keramikpaste oder Kupferpaste .
Dann geht es beim nächsten rausschrauben einfacher und man beschädigt nicht das Gewinde.
Ich schreibe auf dem Luftfilter immer KM und Datum um zu sehen wie lange es braucht bis er wieder dreckig ist oder
Ersetzt werden muss.
Top Job 👍🏻 Gruss von Mario aus der Schweiz 🇨🇭😉
Thanks Mario, appreciate your comment and the advice
Looking good mate
Thanks Colin
When you replace the oil, don't overfill. It seems to keep creeping up for quite some time in the fill window after you have poured it in.
Hi, Thanks for the tip
Nice bike. I got a 2000 ST1100 with 25,000 miles on it and my rear abs pump isn't working according to my bike mechanic. The front brake make the front and back to stop. The rear brake just don't work when I press on the rear brake. The shop claim the rear abs pump is $1500
Thanks Mark,First of all have you checked the rear caliper ? as it has a combined braking system, check the rear hoses as well, because if it is the ABS MODULATOR pump, here in the UK is nearly £1500 new from Honda, so the price he has given you is about right, you could look for a second hand pump on Ebay, there are quite a few about and alot cheaper then new, hope that helps
I did enjoy your video but you didn't show how to do the fluid coolant change in steps which was my main concern. Pls If you could do i will appreciate it a lot.
Thanks
Calvin
Sorry about that, when it next needs doing i will make sure i film it, Thanks
Plugs can be changed without removing the fairings. Here's a quick (1:40) video tip on how to do it. Thanks! th-cam.com/video/bdxSaF0MCjs/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Marcel, appreciate your comment and the link, everything was coming apart as alot of work to do, but will keep it in mind when i just want to do plugs
@@TheAmateurBikeBuilder Thanks, Man. Ride safe, ride fun, Brother.
i would have flushed the radiator given the radiator cap was so messed up, the fluid would be as bad in the tank.
Thanks Matthew, yes i didn't do it at the time, but it has been done now, full flush through, wasn't pretty, appreciate your comment
Great videos, pity you didn't show the type of spark plug you fitted and what you gapped it at, are you meant to use some thread lock on plugs?
I'd like to see a vid of renewing all the coolant hoses sometime, a job I'm not really looking forward too.
Thanks for the comment, just used NGK plugs and gapped according to the manual,no never thread locked plugs, never heard of it ever being done... i will in time renew the coolant hoses not looking forward to it either, just replaced them on my Busa that was bad enough
I used iridium plugs,I just fitted them straight from the box!! that was a few years ago and the bike is running perfectly.
The coolant hoses is just more preventive maintenance, that and a new timing belt sometime. They are fantastic bikes and well worth the effort to maintain them properly.
@@roadwarrior8560 Iridium plugs all the way brother!!
You do NOT put thread lock on spark plugs.
Datatool alarm.....???....just de wired mine, on my st1100.....bikes lot happier, and no more battery drain, suffered it for three years......biggest piece of crap going,
Thanks Nigel, was on it when i bought it, i hate it to, but whoever wired it in made a right mess of it, will eventually remove it