Great vid did the break set pin have some kind of cover on them as my 1999 doesent seem to also looks like a straight edge screwdriver to open cover first before allen key butt does not budge would it be siezed ?
Its not the pistons, its the floating bolts, the first 2 you took off, they suppose to float as the piston apply pressure, clean them really good and lube them with some white lithium grease and now they will float so both pads get equal wear.
was that a special tool you used for rolling back the piston's also was that break cleaner or can you use carb cleaner to clean up also did you only use copper grease on final little nut no other kind of grease anywhere please?
Thanks Colm, the tool was a caliper spreader that i pick up a while ago on Ebay, i use brake cleaner, never tried carb cleaner on brakes, just in case something goes wrong, copper grease has always worked well as some grease can wash away when wet
Ageed that secondary master cylinder pivot arm could be seized or secondary master cylinder corroded and seized on of the small drilling’s in the secondary cylinder are blocked. If the latter two don’t bother with a kit as with a corroded bore the piston kit wont seal properly. If the secondary cylinder is seized on it will permanently apply the rear calliper until fixed. If you can’t move the secondary cylinder back and forth it probably seized and bolloxed.
I have an ST1100 in the same spec as yours and, without wishing to appear clever, I have another tip for you. When you've got the front calipers off, have a good look at where they mount on the forks - there are needle roller bearings there and on the linkage that goes from the L/H caliper up to the secondary master cylinder. These are known to be neglected and will seize - mine did. New ones of the correct size are available from bearing suppliers much cheaper than Honda ones.
Thanks Neil, appreciate the tip, i am learning as i go on this bike, my video's are not how to's more a documentation of my journey, so i appreciate any tips/hints/advice all part of the learning process, i am due to go back on to the ST soon as still more work to do
@@TheAmateurBikeBuilder You're most welcome Sir . I've had my ST since October 2014 and I'm just about coming to the end of any/all bits and pieces that have been missed over the years and I'm more than happy to share any knowledge with anyone. You'll find us Pan-Men are only too happy to wax lyrical about the "Gentlemen's Express". I don't know if you've gone anywhere near the rear shock yet but the bottom mounting bolt will seize for fun. Whip it out, give it and the threads in the final drive a good clean and shove it back in with plenty of anti-seize on the blighter. One upgrade I did recently was changing the instrument light bulbs to LED's. WOW - what a difference!! The chap who does the kits is on Facebook - his name is Mark Glover and he goes by Lightenupgrade. Seriously the best £20 upgrade ever. Don't hesitate to let me know if you need any other tips or torments.
@@neilgreenway7214 its still a learning curve for me, this bike was in a right state when i got it, shiny on the outside and a major disaster underneath, as i said i will be going back in as still more to do so will have a look at the shock while i am in there, thank you again for the advice and i will call on you if i need some help, cheers
Thanks Mark, it is a 1999 ABS model, yes the front abs sensor the bolts on to the back of the caliper bolt was not secured properly, that was causing the problem, so glad i stripped it all out and spotted it, could of been costly
Yes, guess so. I meant under. You sprayed the top of the callipers and then started scrubbing them. What did you use to clean the other side 180 degrees at 4m58s. I am asking this because of my NT700V, foot brake is hard to push down and also the pads are almost gone, I am not using the rear brake to stop and I want to know if I will be able to do it on my own. Will the bike hold safely whilst taking the rear weheel off?
if you put the bike on the center stand then yes will be fine, or use a rear paddock stand , i used Rock Oil Brake Kleen for all the caliper cleaning and i have 3 different brushes, soft/medium and coarse,
@@LordOfThunderUK No info given as to how he cleaned the underside of the pistons. It is possible to get a piston removal tool in order to rotate the piston whilst still in the housing. You could always, whilst the piston is pumped out of the housing use a strip of very very fine emery cloth?sand paper such as 600 grade and gently remove the crud that builds up around the piston lip. Use brake fluid as a polishing lubricant then clean thoroughly afterwards with brake cleaning fluid.
just bought my first st1100,love it and great to have you in my sight.great stuff mate,shall be following you closely
Thanks Victoria, glad you enjoy the video's, there will be more ST videos coming soon
@@TheAmateurBikeBuilder A lady ST1100 rider - we need more ladies on the planet's best bike - GO GIRL!!
Great job mate looking good glad you sorted abs out .Looking good cheers Colin
Thanks Colin, that took a while to work out,but yes glad its sorted
Great vid did the break set pin have some kind of cover on them as my 1999 doesent seem to also looks like a straight edge screwdriver to open cover first before allen key butt does not budge would it be siezed ?
Its not the pistons, its the floating bolts, the first 2 you took off, they suppose to float as the piston apply pressure, clean them really good and lube them with some white lithium grease and now they will float so both pads get equal wear.
Thanks for the info
absolutely! Reminds me of the my beloved CB400F front brake
Hi. No problem with the ABS unit when pushing back the pistons ? Pressure issue in the unit ? I am about to change my pads too. Tks for the video.
Thanks, no issues at all
Great job.
Bonjour, aurais-tu une solution pour trouver à moindre coût, les 6 rondelles situées derrière les vis de fixation du frein à disque ?
Hello, Unfortunately i do not, i would always use Honda original parts, should be available from any Honda dealer
@@TheAmateurBikeBuilder Merci mon ami.
was that a special tool you used for rolling back the piston's also was that break cleaner or can you use carb cleaner to clean up also did you only use copper grease on final little nut no other kind of grease anywhere please?
Thanks Colm, the tool was a caliper spreader that i pick up a while ago on Ebay, i use brake cleaner, never tried carb cleaner on brakes, just in case something goes wrong, copper grease has always worked well as some grease can wash away when wet
Ageed that secondary master cylinder pivot arm could be seized or secondary master cylinder corroded and seized on of the small drilling’s in the secondary cylinder are blocked. If the latter two don’t bother with a kit as with a corroded bore the piston kit wont seal properly. If the secondary cylinder is seized on it will permanently apply the rear calliper until fixed. If you can’t move the secondary cylinder back and forth it probably seized and bolloxed.
That was the case on my st1300 anyway.
@@bobbo9549 appreciate the info
if I replace one disc does that mean I have to replace the other aswell? My left disc has only 2,6mm the right has 4mm
i would, same as you would brake pads in pairs
I have an ST1100 in the same spec as yours and, without wishing to appear clever, I have another tip for you.
When you've got the front calipers off, have a good look at where they mount on the forks - there are needle roller bearings there and on the linkage that goes from the L/H caliper up to the secondary master cylinder.
These are known to be neglected and will seize - mine did.
New ones of the correct size are available from bearing suppliers much cheaper than Honda ones.
Thanks Neil, appreciate the tip, i am learning as i go on this bike, my video's are not how to's more a documentation of my journey, so i appreciate any tips/hints/advice all part of the learning process, i am due to go back on to the ST soon as still more work to do
@@TheAmateurBikeBuilder You're most welcome Sir .
I've had my ST since October 2014 and I'm just about coming to the end of any/all bits and pieces that have been missed over the years and I'm more than happy to share any knowledge with anyone. You'll find us Pan-Men are only too happy to wax lyrical about the "Gentlemen's Express".
I don't know if you've gone anywhere near the rear shock yet but the bottom mounting bolt will seize for fun. Whip it out, give it and the threads in the final drive a good clean and shove it back in with plenty of anti-seize on the blighter.
One upgrade I did recently was changing the instrument light bulbs to LED's. WOW - what a difference!! The chap who does the kits is on Facebook - his name is Mark Glover and he goes by Lightenupgrade. Seriously the best £20 upgrade ever.
Don't hesitate to let me know if you need any other tips or torments.
@@neilgreenway7214 its still a learning curve for me, this bike was in a right state when i got it, shiny on the outside and a major disaster underneath, as i said i will be going back in as still more to do so will have a look at the shock while i am in there, thank you again for the advice and i will call on you if i need some help, cheers
@@TheAmateurBikeBuilder I'm only too happy to be of any help I can to a fellow member of the Gentlemen's (and Gentlelady's) Express Club.
@@neilgreenway7214 appreciate that, thank you
What year is this bike? Did you figure out why it wouldn’t roll backwards? Thx.
Thanks Mark, it is a 1999 ABS model, yes the front abs sensor the bolts on to the back of the caliper bolt was not secured properly, that was causing the problem, so glad i stripped it all out and spotted it, could of been costly
How did you clean the back (underneath) of the calliper? or did you just clean what you see?
do you mean under the retaining clip ? if so brake cleaner and a wire brush, some was done off camera but all calipers were thoroughly cleaned
Yes, guess so. I meant under. You sprayed the top of the callipers and then started scrubbing them. What did you use to clean the other side 180 degrees at 4m58s.
I am asking this because of my NT700V, foot brake is hard to push down and also the pads are almost gone, I am not using the rear brake to stop and I want to know if I will be able to do it on my own.
Will the bike hold safely whilst taking the rear weheel off?
if you put the bike on the center stand then yes will be fine, or use a rear paddock stand , i used Rock Oil Brake Kleen for all the caliper cleaning and i have 3 different brushes, soft/medium and coarse,
@@LordOfThunderUK No info given as to how he cleaned the underside of the pistons. It is possible to get a piston removal tool in order to rotate the piston whilst still in the housing. You could always, whilst the piston is pumped out of the housing use a strip of very very fine emery cloth?sand paper such as 600 grade and gently remove the crud that builds up around the piston lip. Use brake fluid as a polishing lubricant then clean thoroughly afterwards with brake cleaning fluid.
@@daviddoran6840 Thank you for your recent post to me. I sold my Deville 2 years ago but I have taken what you said onboard.
Jusr split them. New pistons and seals
what is the specific tool that you are using? Thanks for the upload - Very helpful. Regards form Boston, Massachusetts Subscribed
Glad it helped, are you refering to the caliper spreader ?
Whoever owned this bike previously, should be banned from the planet.
Thanks Flexjay, i quite agree, its been a labour of love and expense