Toyota MR2 - crank, start, stall diagnostics
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ต.ค. 2024
- It's back again! The 1992 Toyota MR2 has developed another fault. About a year ago we found a couple of issues with the ignition system after bench testing all the components, including distributor pickup & igniter.
This time around the symptoms are similar, the engine would usually start but would either run for a short time when cold but then would stall immediately after it had run for a few minutes.
The car has been parked up for at least 6 months awaiting diagnosis - now I have a few days off work for Christmas it's now time to work out what this problem is this time around...
This is just the first video in what will no doubt turn out to be a series of videos covering the diagnostics & (hopefully!) repair...
Given the complexity of the electrical system on this car & yes, it is pretty damn over complicated for a 1992 Toyota, it's a must to have access to the Toyota Workshop Manual.
Andy Mechanic
Andy I really enjoy the fact you show real world troubleshooting. Not some edited version. You show what us everyday real world DIYERS go through. Dirt and grime under the fingernails and fuel running down your arm. You and Eric O tell it like it is. Great mate
+Arthur Fricchione Thanks Arthur, really appreciate your feedback. Thank you. Andy
May I make a few suggestions?
A) Check the cold start up injectors’ resistance, known to have issues and fail (it’s a primer injector in middle of intake running of of fuel rail.)
B) TPS and the ISC are also known culprits, cleaning the ISC helps period😉
C) fuel pressure regulator
And now I’ll just go off spewing stuff,
I’d start with the spark plugs, dizzy and rotor, wires, then injectors, and then sensors...damn Toyota and their multiple coolant sensors😂
Keep at it mate, and you’ll find it!!
Fuel filter, evap canister, check those lines...and oh for the love of pete, check the power steering pressure sensor on the pump, those lines fall off and give you a vacuum leak that kills your idle.
I had the same symptoms years ago. On cold starts engine runs for a few minutes with no DTC. Once warmed up engine stumbles then stalls. Engine cranks but will not turn over until the next cool down cycle. My problem was intermittant issues with the hall effect sensor in the distributor. Metered sensor and it was in spec when cold. Heated sensor with a hair dryer and the ohms reading starts climbing over the specs. I have the 2.2Lin my duece so I started hunting down 4banger Camry at junkyards. Pulled it for $10 and installed. It fixed my problem and engine still running healthy.
Great job :-)
Hello mate, I am having the same problem as you, what is the hall sensor in the distributor? Is that the same as the ignition coil? Thx
Also, check the VSV for the power steering pressure sensor, if that’s bad it’s basically a constant vacuum leak into your intake.
Tossing my 2p in, I'd check that the distributor is turning. A cracked shaft or sheared roll pin in the drive gear may intermittently spin the rotor and/or sensor but may be firing out of time. Seen this a few times, including my tow rig stranding me and a rented trailer 45 miles from home. That time, one of the distributor shaft bearings seized up as I was accelerating away from a traffic light and snapped the shaft. It felt like turned the key off. Check the spin, and the timing alingment.
+Wade Meyer Plausible Wade, I'll check that on Saturday when I start back on the car again...will keep you posted :-)
This is the series I need. My sw20 turbo has the exact same issue. Let's see.... If you see this comment, is it possible to get said manual? I see you replied in an earlier comment for a google docs share. Thanks!
Fuel pump on the Mr2 doesn't come on until you crank mate, it's not like a normal petrol engine wear it primes first, also if you are fitting a new filter to these it's best to fit it and then bridge the fuel pump in the grey diagnostic port, turn the ING on and the pump will turn on, let the rail fill up and then shut down, remove you bridge and the engine will fire normally, if you don't do this it will crank a long time before it starts.
Some Ecus on these suffer from bad caps that have leaked over the board, I recapped mine soon as I heard this which fixed a hot start issue, so check this first, ecu is in the boot left hand side on the fire wall.
It's back to basics here, check you have a spark and look at the distributor too, then check to so if the injectors are working plugs out job and see if fuel mist comes out the spark holes, check all you IGN, EFI fuses and relays too.
You also said this has an alarm? If it's a proper immobiliser one then it could have failed I had an after market one fitted on mine when I bought it it failed on me, I had to rip it out it would crank but no start, depends what wiring that have spliced go fit it in.
Great info Mecha Tech, this diag is complete now so I know the issue but the points you raise & the info is extremely helpful - an excellent summary of checks to do combined with some specific known faults on this model.
I still have the car & it starts & runs perfectly every time now so I know the final diag was the correct call.
Watch the Series, you'll be proud of yourself.
Cheers Andy
crank/cam sensor failed or just maybe if your lucky it could be dirty, crank sensor could also explain why there is no rev counter also
The tachometer is driven by the ignitor
Id say the tach being missing is a big clue.
Andy could you post the link for the toyota manuals.
My son has a 1993 supra .
Would be handy for me as i am his no1 got to for car issues .
I washed the engine bay with water and now the car wouldn't start. What should i do 😭
I would say... slap in a small diesel, would be a nifty little car.
very interesting! i have the same car!
please, where can I obtain the shop manual because I have also some trouble?
+Genevieve Dupont open up me a Google docs account and send me the link and I'll upload it for you.
Crank sensor. No signal on the tac. I am only guessing
33-38psi - IF too high... Which it was... How could you miss that?
First of all the meter doesn't serve as a jumper in my book... not sure but why not just jumper it?
check the immobilizer and alarm system
the cel light is on. get the dtc first. it might be a bad crank sensor ( no rpm's)
+happy543210 Engine Management light goes out when the engine is running and no fault codes are stored.
+happy543210 I agree it could be the ignition pickup but the pickup is in the distributor on this model as its a bit old for a crank angle sensor....
Thanks for your input...we will have to wait and see!
Cheers Andy
If it doesn't have a crank sensor (google agrees) it is most likely the cam sensor in the distributor as you are not getting any RPMs on the dash
+Slothnik Yes, I agree, that could be the fault but it was bench tested in the ignition fault videos and seemed fine, though that was only at cold.
Good call....I'll have to test it on car this time plus are a couple of other checks we can do too.
Thanks for your input.
Cheers Andy
But it is moving, at 10% roughly. I'm up to Pt5 on this video and I'm still thinking an Earthing or sensor issue.
Might be just a failing igniter.
EFI Relay?
+Owen Cumpson Thanks Owen, possibly but the engine does start for a short time sometimes...we will have to wait and see :-)
ECU mate, 1million %.ECU.
Why can't I get a spark on my spark plug on my MR2 Toyota
Take out plugs and connect them, crank the car while someone is holding the spark plug threads to the manifold to ground it, and check for spark,
What was it?
this is the car i should have bought after graduating college. instead, i bought a piece of shit mitsubishi eclipse...a mistake i regret to this day!
cam / crank sensor
coil power
injector power
is where i am at.
+Josh C Sounds good Josh. This engine doesn't have a crank or cam sensor. It has an electronic pickup in the distributor so I'll take another look at that as an option.
Good call :-)
Thanks just on my list of things to check.
Also injector pulse and spark are likely to be missing too if pickup is bad.
seems like it gets one fire could be a bad connection to the pickup.
The worst vehicle ever in Toyota history here in the United States.
Great to look at.. Fun to drive but a real pain in the arse to maintain.