Toyota MR2 ignition system testing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ม.ค. 2017
- So...the aging MR2 broke down the other day, the first time it failed to make it home in 5 years of ownership....
After a quick check with the ECU via it's flash codes it became apparent that it felt the fault was somewhere within the Ignition system, maybe a component, maybe wiring....time to put on the blue shirt & Teng Tools cap and find out...
This video, yes, it's a long one!, covers a wide range of tests on the car's ignition system, including:
ECU ground circuit condition, Distributor pickup/rotor air gap check, pickup coils resistance & signal output tests. Ignition coil primary & secondary winding tests, Igniter testing & a few other bits and bobs that may help you diagnose a fault on pretty much any Toyota of the same era...oh, and I cover how to use the car's on board self-diagnostics system - Flash codes too...
Included is the use of an oscilloscope to show output signals but I also use other, more basic & 'to hand' tools to cover much of the testing as many of you won't have access to such equipment...
So...here's how I got on...
If you have any questions, comments or maybe suggestions then feel free to add them below & I'll do my best to respond soon..
Andy Mechanic... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I'm working on an '86 MR2 and it looks like the troubleshooting process and igniter assessment is completely applicable. Like previous commenter. We love the MR2 help.
Very informative thank you we definitely need a lot more mr2 videos. I’m currently working on my 1992 NA mr2 restoration. I’ve replaced the cylinder head due to blown head gasket. I’ve put everything together now but the timing from the belt is what I’m a bit concerned. But I’ve put back everything as it was before now it’s just the distributor. It has same oil leak from the video due to gasket. I will be replacing it. I will now have to set the ignition timing. Mr2s are very tedious but I love them so much !
nice video...i love the jobs/faults that go away. When you pull stuff out to test but find they all pass.....
Great walk through. I appreciate the clarity of the video and the relaxed thoughtful pace. Mark from Canada.
A BIG HELLO FROM CANADA ANDY! I just subscribed, i'v got an mr2 project ( 1991 ) that has been in storage for 15 yrs, no spark and no fuel smell out the exhaust after cranking, i'll keep you posted, Cheers,Garth.
First class technician, thank you.
Can't believe your patience, great video, you deserve a medal. Not sure if you ever fixed your tacho if not replace the two 10uF 25V electrolytic capacitors behind the tacho , it'll likely be the one in the middle of the pcb which has had it. oh and the turbo or battery gauge needle (can't remember if yours is a turbo) will get trapped when you re-assemble the plastics so you have to take the perspex front off and free it before putting your instrument cluster back in the car....like I just did. Luckily mine had been trapped for 18 years after someone changed the speedo from km/h to mph, so finally works.
Awesome. Thanks for the info, very useful. Cheers Andy
Hey this video just saved me $300 I was about to buy the ignitor to fix my no spark condition on a 1991 mr2 I just bought. I used your method and proved the part worked. Ended up being the distributor NE- coil was open loop. Popped a new distributor in and it fired first try. Thanks dude!! Also this video let me understand the Toyota ignition system architecture for which I owe you a debt of gratitude!
Cheers Matey, great to hear it helped you fix your MR2.....cool cars indeed :-)
@@AndyMechanic I'll soon give you a link to my really cool video done which will portray an American Craigslist purchase and subsequent fix of the dead mr2 and explain my extreme future plans for the car. Good. Day. Mate.
excellent job found that really interesting .Gradually going through your videos ...Thanks for sharing your knowledge and
providing some real entertainment ...Cheers..
great in depth video. Really interesting. Keep up the great work.
Andy, great vid ! To bad you could not find the cause but most likely it was either that loose connector or even that damaged wire. For a no-start/no spark situation, I would think it would be best to start at the coil and work your way back to the ECU. To test the coil, with key on momentary touch pin 5 with a test light from bat -, coil should fire. Since the coil receives it's input from the igniter, plug connector in and take a test light from bat + to pin five and cranked the engine over to confirm if the igniter is switching pin five ( coil ) to ground or not ! If it is, your test light should flicker ! If no flicker you would need to confirm ( scope or logic probe ) pin 2 on the igniter see if it is receiving a input from the ECU ! If no input is being received from the ECM then you would need to Scope/DVM the pick-up coils as you did. If all is well in the distributor, then move to the ECU itself ! Of coarse you would need to check the wiring between all components is sound. Andy, the two lower pick-ups in the distributor, were they for cam position ?
Brilliant video I will try that with my toyota crown 1993 because I have no spark issue !!! amazing may God bless you bro
Wow this video was great help! Thanks heaps you’re a legend ! How did you get the owners manual for the MR2 I’ve been looking for it everywhere and can’t find it !!
Great video, currently working on a MK1 Supercharger with 2 pick ups (G1/G2) - the simple resistance test for G2 on the wires is showing full resistance, other 2 check out in spec. So seems clear that's gone (or a wire has broken) even though it was just sat in a garage for a couple of years and ran when put away. Would the lack of the second pickup working cause a no spark/no start even with G1 working - so half the number of triggers/sparks at worse? Have checked all the usuals and am down to that or ECU/ign switch. 12v at the coil in 'run' and 9.6v when cranking probably means switch OK. Spark present when turning to run (or back to run) so it is capable of sparking but not in start/cranking (which is why I thought switch). Also have you any idea why the SC/MK2s have 2 pickups while the Naturally Aspirated Mk1s only have one (G1) pick up? what does that second one actually do (180 degrees around the distributor). I have tired googling for days but found no answer... I've tried 3 different coil/igniter combos and do get 'tach bounce' on cranking which I believe means that is ok? Car has occasionally started (for a couple seconds) as key springs back to 'run' (causing the 2 sparks I've seen) then dies out (probably due to very bad petrol which I'm gonna siphon out and replace soon) cheers
Hey brother thanks for the video. I am getting the same code 14 on my 92 mr2. My problem is that when i put the key to the on part i hear a click at the rear fuse box and the fuse box in the frunk and i can feel it a quick vibration at the same time of the click sound. The car also doesnt start. What do you think it could be? Thanks
Great video, very well explained! I have an 1992 SW20 and since a month ago it happened to me as well, code 14! I will use this video and the manual to test the same points. Just out of curiosity, did after everything you did, did the car run well again without showing code 14? Or did you still discover something after you made this video? Please let me know!
Yes, I fixed the fault during this Series of videos & no further fault codes or issues :-)
Cheers Andy
@@AndyMechanic Thank you for the quick reply! I did watch the whole video but at the end the conclusion was that you could not specifically put your finger on what caused this code 14, right? Or were you 100% sure that it had to be the ignitor?
Oh.....you'll have to watch a few more Episodes.....it gets really interesting & you won't expect the fault found!! Cheers Andy
Great great great video,
Thank you soo much
That was a very useful manual.Where can I get one for Toyota YARIS 2000 ? Great intensive video.
Awesome thank this helped me! Grate video!
Hi there. where could i get a copy of your manual. I've got a new problem in that there no spark at all. i replaced the ignitor and coil and still nothing. i have a feeling theres no 5v coming from the ECU. i just need to check where in the ECU this 5 volts comes from. cheers
Hey there, you seem knowledgeable so I figured I’d ask, do you happen to have a diagram to show the distributor ne+, ne-, g1, and g positions for the 5sfe motor?
I am looking at a mr2 about ready to buy it and its having a stay running issue as well. What do you suggest did you hear back from the customer has the problem been fix?
+Master Anubis yep. It's all fixed and no further issues :-)
Any chance you could let us know where you get the PDF manuals ? I have a 1991 Corolla Gti 16V (4AGE) and could do with some of that technical faulat finding info
+SpacedOdyssey Hi, I just have to search the net. It's not often I don't find what I need but sometimes it takes a while.
Cheers Andy
So I have a 92 mr2 2.2l n/a and I have an issue with the ignition only firing one spark at the coil and car won't start. Some times after 30 of cranking it will stumble on and after that runs fine and can be shut off and fired up several times without issue. Let it sit overnight and same thing with no start and only one spark from the coil. Tested my distributor today and g- to g1 no reading. G-to ne within spec and g- to g2 with in spec. Car has a new coil. What do you think?
+Bigg Squid hi, sounds like a classic case of a bad earth. If you run a new Earth wire directly off the engine block to the ignitor and ignition coil and see if that helps fix the issue on morning start up.
If not then check voltage supply to units, you may have a high resistance in the loom feed to the units.
Let me know how you get on. Cheers Andy
when you looked up the fault codes on your lap top/pc you were looking at engine code 3sgte,, that is the turbo engine yours is an NA, is possible that they give the same code but it needs to be checked out
Great video, I learned a lot. One question though, how would you go about charging a customer for that? You've spent a lot of time on it and it's not conclusive if the car is fixed for the long term. Thanks again for the video
+Jonathan Buckler It's difficult to put a price on diagnostic work. At the end of the day I checked the main components and they all passed 'Toyota's' tests, that is chargeable, no question. Always remember the car is the customers responsibility and the problems it has are their problems. As technicians we do the checks methodically, following the manufacturer's advice.
I agree, there could still be a fault but a few were found and fixed and any one of those faults could have been causing the problem, especially the loose igniter plug.
Andy Mechanic those are very good points, thanks for your insight. Helps me a lot
Hi do you know where can I find that diagnosis manual for a MR2 TURBO MK2? cheers mate
I had to pay a subscription to download it but I think if you search long enough you'll find it on the Web
Cheers Andy
I know this comment is a bit late but where can I get a labelled pdf of the manual? I've found some scanned pdfs online but not ones that are properly indexed in digital form.
Although the igniter is on a 5SFE with a different part number (looks the same), it didn't pass your test. I do happen to have an oscilloscope. Nadda even at 5ms. I also found the MPI(EFI) relay is faulty. Is there a fair possibility the wiring harness to that fuse box is shorting? I don't see anything visually wrong with the harness. I couldn't do your diagnosis test as the car stopped running suddenly, and doesn't start at all. Hard to believe the harness is too corroded. The car lived the first half of it's life in dry Las Vegas, and the other half in a garage in Idaho.
I have no power to my 4 main injectors with the key on but correct volts at the cold start injector. I have 12v at the coil. Would a bad igniter allow power to the CSI but not the main injectors?
Hi mate where did you get the manual mines is a non starter too
I’m kinda gutted for you did it come back was it all good
Hey I have a 91 mr2 2.2 with no injector pulse or spark, already tried different ecm and ignitor and no luck I have 12 volts on both pins of injectors, I have 12 volts on coil wire and ignitor too but looks like I'm missing ground pulse from distributor, can you help?
Do you know if touching one of the three wires with a test light connected on the positive side will make the spark?? Thank you very nice video and info!
Good Question! If you put a test light to pin #2 momentary from bat + you would be creating a similar signal as the pcm would and the igniter would then ground the coil which in turn would generate a spark ! I would not recommend doing that because the pcm signal is regulated to 5v and you are now putting 12v to the igniter.
+Billy R I'm with Billy on this one. Although you may get away with the test light trick you could cause damage to the igniter. It's only designed to take 5v on pin 2 and 12v may blow the electronics. Besides, providing a 5v supply to test with is easy, just grab 3x AA batteries and wire in series, that will be enough to trigger the igniter. Thanks for your input Billy. Cheers Andy
thank you very much guys,andy really appreciate the tip. thanks again.
i have seen a scannerdanner video that bypasses the trigger signal wire from the pick up coil using a test light im not pretty sure if he said that the signal varies and goes up to 12 volt or more, it was a different system so probably he was right.
+armando nika Yes, you do need to be very careful (do a little research) as systems can vary and if you put too high a voltage through an electronic component it can be easily damaged.
Thanks for the feedback, really pleased you found the video helpful & it's great that other views have come on board to help you out too. That's one if the reasons I started this TH-cam channel :-)
thanks Andy, where can I download the manual?
Oh.....you'll have to do what I do and just make good friends with Google! :-)
Hello where can I get that tech manual app you got there?
Ok got a question, I have a 1993 mr2 turbo I bought a megasquirt and needed to set timing. Now on stock computer it would run no issues I could tell. Hook up new ems and was getting no spark I had to turn the distributor advance to get it to crank then I would turn it back and it would run fine. If I turned off the car I had to manually advance it to get it to crank every time. Stock comp no issues, so I took distributor out and it had some rust build up on the trigger points not a lot but some. So pulled out Dremel and cleaned it up a bit was not overly harsh on it. Placed sand paper on lower terminals and turned it once in between wheel and contact pt. So after a quick clean the car won't start at all with either computer. Is that fixable or just buy a new one.
+Full Throttle the air gap is critical, so is the profile of the rotor. It's going to be a new distributor I fear...
+Full Throttle however, I think the original problem is your ignition map on the aftermarket ems needs to be reviewed
Andy Mechanic ok update my distributor was the issue
+Full Throttle awesome. Good job :-)
Anyone know where I can find the manual he’s referencing?
Where can the ignition module be found on one of these?
+9598rambo mounted on the firewall between the engine and the boot, left side near the ignition coil. Cheers Andy
Got it mine had a plastic cover took me a while to find it cheers
Have you still got the Mr2 Andy?
No, we sold it about 2 years ago now. Chap who purchased it was going to give it a full tidy up & a new paint job so went to a good home.
Cheers Andy
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Replace capacitors in Tachometer!
Obviously not a Kiwi, are you from the midlands
+SpacedOdyssey Yorkshire :-)
First class technician, thank you.