MR2 Mk1 4AGE Cranks But Wont Start. How To Fix
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ค. 2024
- Today we look into why our mk1 mr2 will turn over but wont fire.
We go through logical fault finding which includes testing the major components to find out what to replace to get her running.
If you enjoyed todays video and want to see more of what we do then you can find us on instagram @resti_nation or on Facebook.
#toyotamr2 #mr2project #restoration - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
it could also have been the AFM because that takes over powering the fuel pump when the engine vacuum opens the vane door... but if you jump FP and B+ and have nothing then yeah you know it's time to drop the tank. Good video mate.
Bro you just saved me I was having so much trouble with my mr2 that I was about to get rid of it its. 88 model
Having now also dropped an MR2 tank I wholeheartedly agree that it’s not a job I want to do again. Mine has been sat since 1999 with half a tank, the tank and pump were rusty as anything. £25 got me a clean tank, I then uprated the pump to an AEM 340LPH E100 compatible pump (massive overkill but I was hoping to convert the car to E10, until I read the manual stating it needs 99 octane anyway 😭)
Thankfully I tested the new fuel pump, rail, regulator, damper and lines last night and got a steady 36psi pressure and no leaks thank god
Verry verry infinitive Ben chacing wiring grimlines in my 88 mk1 and this helped narrow it down thanks so much
Happy to help 😎
I really like the british lang..
Nice video.. informative
The pain of dropping the fuel tank is so relatable, personally I've had to drop it 4 times on mine, due to the coolant pipes breaking.
Agreed. Without a ramp it’s a horrible job!
thank you so much for all your information. I did the same thing you did I forgot to test the fuel pump. SMH
No worries, glad it’s useful 👍🏻
Good stuff!!
Just bought a mk1 1989 looking forward to getting bits done
Sweet, good luck with it!
8:08 This seems to not be the first time this has happened. I saw an aw11 in Florida that said they changed the fuel pump and won't start. And the one I'm buying having a similar issue, only starting with starter fluid but not staying on for long. Praying that might be the only mistake.
You ever find out what the problem was ? I'm in the same position . New fuel pump and the gas tank was refurbished.
@@papi_sazon2032 lmfao it was a fuse. No power to the fuel pump. Changed that and it started work
I've had this malais on my MR2. I was told that if storing the car for a lengthy period, the fuel pump needs to be completely submerged in the fuel. Worst part of the tank removal for me was actually reconnecting the pipes on refitting, especially the small breather. Wasn't designed to be easy!
I didn’t have that luxury as mine was rotten! It’s a nasty job but I’ve done it twice now and hopefully never again!! And if you follow the Manual it’s nearly impossible!! One thing I will say tho, if that tanks Is coming out then change the pump for new!!
That's exactly the mistake I made on mine.
Thankyou! I was wondering why my mr2 wasn't starting. The car "started" a month before I got it, but I couldn't figure it out. After some research realized my fuel pump is junk. Now I know why the fuel could have gone out so quickly as there gas in the tank. I got the car for free so thats why I got as a non-runner.
I have a 4agze, if i leave the car it loses pressure in the rail, if i turn the key theres no pressure in the rail,if i crank it,it cranks about 4 times pulls fuel splutters then fires up and runs great and shows pressure , if the car is left it loses pressure again, after chasing this issue i decided to get a new FPR and adjusted it to 40 psi, new walbro fuel pump and new fuel filter, fuel tank is mint inside.
If i disconnect my circuit open relay car will not start at all, when turning ignition on circuit open relay does not click or vibrate, after crank and running if i turn the engine off circuit opening relay vibrates?.
Could it be faulty an only partially working?. Fuel Pump runs great whilst engine is running, its just the initial start. I do not hear any pump running with ingition on only when cranking or engine running?.
awesome!
hi mate good vid very helpful but what would you think if the circuit open relay isnt getting power?
Good question! Have you got a wiring diagram? I would say start with basics like a main fuse maybe? I would expect it to have a permanent live to one of the pins
@Resto Nation thanks for your reply even the diag box connector isnt getting 12v where you do the jumper thing very strange
@@bulldogcarparts3844 super weird. Must be a fuse issue?
My 87 aw11 just stopped running while I was cruising in 3rd. Fuel pump doesnt make any noise unlessed it's bridged but it still doesn't fire. I feel like its definitely wiring because of the way it cut out. So far I've replaced ignition coil, distributor cap n rotor, plugs, wires, and fuel filter. I also did all the fuses but I'm waiting for all the relays to come in the mail. New battery too good voltage. Wiring is not one of my talents I'm stumped right now if anyone has an idea it'd be appreciated!!
Could be circuit open relay. Let me know if that fixes it when you fit it.
Nice i think thats my car problem
where is the best place to spray the easy start on the supercharged 4agze?
Just had a look at some pictures online. Might be worth trying to remove the air intake hose that goes into the elbow on top of the inlet to the supercharger 👍🏻.
hey resto nation. I currently have an 86 mr2 I drove it home 40 miles. When i first went to pick up the car it started right away. It has a brand new battery and fuel pump. As i was 3 miles away from home i noticed that the valve cover gasket started leaking massively. The car was pumping oil vapors like a chimney. I got it towed home and I noticed that the car wont start or hold idle. It will crank and crank and crank after 1 minute the car would baaaarely start and die immediately. If i push start the car is drives fine but once my foot is off the gas the car would die. I have fixed the valve cover gasket leak and the PCV hose leak. The oil level is good. I also did a distributor cap and wires. I am very very lost in this scenario. Any help would help.
one rare occasion is that the car started and held idle for about a min before it decided to die again. I also noticed that on cold start the idle would jump from 1000 rpm to 1600 rpm then after the car warmed up it was perfectly fine. All the issues started once the vapor was coming out of the top of the valve cover bolt o ring that was leaking and the PCV. When i push to start the car moves and drives normal it doesnt hold idle and now it wont start. What might be the issue?
Regards,
Wow, where do we start! Air leak, coolant in the air, ignition timing? I would say start with the basics and go from there to eliminate the easy stuff and then report back. Be methodical and make a list of everything that you’ve checked and eliminated.
I want to try starting fluid but where do I spray it? I'm not familiar with this 😅
Skip that step and start diagnosing…
If we have access to the fuel pump power supply wires at the console, why would we not throw 12v on them right there and listen for the pump?
You can do If you want 👍🏻. Better to test to see what actual voltage you have and if not then work it back from there. If you put power to the pump and it runs then you still need to find out why you don’t have power
@@Resto.Nation hey, thanks for the reply! I did the bridge thing and the pump whirrs away happily, and I did the jar-under-the-return-line thing and it hoses in, so i am very pleased not to have to do the fuel-tank removal. I then discovered that while the main ignition lead belts me good, none of the cylinder leads do, so, um, distributor... i guess...
Great video! How do you find all the information needed to diagnose a car like this? Is this knowledge from experience or is there a document of the car stating these things?
Some underpinning knowledge and the rest from a Haynes manual. Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
When I crank it should it stay at 12 volts consistently or just real quick and then go back down cause that’s what mines doing
Where are you measuring that voltage from?
So I have an mr2 86, fuel pump works and everything. The car turns and starts but turns off after 1 second of it running. What should be checked next
DJosue Aguirre are you sure its working?
@@Resto.Nation Hey well the reason why it didnt start was because of the fuel injectors. The issue was that the MAF seems to be causing hesitation to acceleration and misfires and we bought a MAF and replaced it since it seemed defective. However as of today we put in the new MAF and no longer starts just cranks and it fired up yesterday not sure what couldve gone wrong.
So If I’ve used the starter spray and it doesn’t work does that mean that I don’t have proper spark? I just replaced the spark plugs and the wires on mine but it still isn’t starting. Help ples
Have you got power to the coil?
How exactly do I figure that out?
Hello.. please help me… my fuel pump does not run without bypasing diagnostic port… when i bypass then fuel pump getting operate…. After i check the relay also as you told in this vid… i got power to the “FP” port when cranking.. when ignition Key on my fuel pump is not working what could be the reason?
Weird. Maybe a ground/earth fault. Check the pump ground wire. Or run a second ground from pump ground to chassis.
@@Resto.Nation thank you . I will check it out ..🙂
I’ve got spark :/ I’ve got fuel at the rail I’ve replaced all fuses and relays but my aw11 still won’t start any guesses I would really appreciate the help
Timing? Dodgy plug lead or plug? Have you seen my other video on the checking of the ignition system for reference?
@@Resto.Nation I did check for spark and I all seems to be well, my injector connectors are brittle and have lost there clips could that be my next step?
@@futtalk2780 it’s logical for sure because I had a break in one of my injector wires that I remade but one down wouldn’t stop the car from running. Will it run if you spray easy start into the intake?
@@Resto.Nation yes, with a little help car will run if maintained with easy start.
But without it I can only get it to crank endlessly
Hey so, I used the jumper wire and was able to hear the fuel pump doing its job and the car would start, but it isn’t getting the 12 volts during cranking. I tested the relay and it seems to be getting proper voltage itself but the fuel pump isn’t seeing that power during cranking.
Any solution?? I’m thinking a new relay?? Please help
Sounds logical. Have you done the continuity tests of the relay?
@@Resto.Nation I have not, could you possibly explain how to do it, don’t wanna ruin anything during the process.
@@tylervilla2386 the checks are in the video 👍🏻
@@Resto.Nation you mean the part where you test the ohms after you take the relay out? Because if so it is performing according to spec but when I put it back and test the fuel pump wire it doesn’t put out any voltage to the fuel pump. I got the fuel pump to go from using jumper wire which bypassed the relay but I guess the relay or the connector is bad
@@tylervilla2386 check for continuity on the harness between the diagnostic box and pump connector in the cabin and check for a good ground.
Hey it’s me again, tested continuity on the connector and the relay wasn’t putting out anything on the Fp terminal. Got a new relay and still don’t have a start. What weird me out is the male connection that goes to the fuel pump is only putting out 3-4 volts. Does this sound like a wiring issue. Not even the diagnostics box is getting 12 volts to the fuel pump anymore. Any tips??
Sounds weird! Should be a solid 12v I would say!
@@Resto.Nation battery also has 12 volts. Got a feeling maybe some wiring issues may be to blame, if you have any tips on where to start that would be amazing
@@tylervilla2386 maybe try resistance testing sections end to end so fuel pump connector to diagnostic box if you can confirm that is one straight uninterrupted cable. Or maybe try running a temporary new cable to bypass it and see if that works
@@Resto.Nation sounds like a pain but I will try to do that, starter also just croaked on me so I have a feeling that might contribute to the issue. But I mean starter relay seems good it’s the starter itself that seized
@@Resto.Nation hey it’s me again, car became a no crank and no start so I threw in a new battery. We have a crank but still no start. Fuel pump is still missing the 12 volts. My guess is wiring since the relay and EFI fuse are new. I know there is a few sensors in the car. Would one of them possible be the culprit??
Thank you get back to me when you can
Hey so what if I can’t get power from the diagnostics to the fuel pump connecting wire?
Broken wire maybe? Have you got continuity from the diagnostic box to the pump live?
@@Resto.Nation I haven’t tested that yet, do I just test continuity from terminal Fp and ground?
@@tylervilla2386 I would expect FP to go to fuel pump live but confirm with a wiring diagram (Haynes manual maybe) first 👍🏻
@@Resto.Nation sounds good I was gonna test the fuel pump soon to see if its still going, then if not run some new wire. Thanks for the response and the help
@@tylervilla2386 any time. Just comment if your stuck 👍🏻
So after days of struggle we still cant find the problem. Car starts up and fires up but it high idles, hesitates to accelerate, both loses power and runs rich when accelerating, completely stalls when you press the gas pedal completely. What is your take on it???
I’m not sure being honest mate sorry. Us or U.K.?
@@Resto.Nation US unfortunately
@@djosueaguirre5182 lots of emissions gubbins and a maf on the us cars. I would recommend checking and setting the tps as a good starting point. I’ve done a video on it if you haven’t already seen it but be careful. Haynes made a mistake that I addressed later in the video. Good luck...
this could be a number of things. Poorly adjusted or failing Throttle Position Sensor would be my first guess but it could also be the coolant temp sensor having a short or open circuit or just failing in general. The TPS has a spring that makes it return back to it's resting position when the throttle body closes again and that gets gummed up or weak and it doesn't snap back to idle position quickly or at all anymore after 30+ years of operation so it throws everything off. You need to get the Factory Service Manual and look up how to test the TPS and the Adjustment procedure using an OHM meter.
@@Raevenswood Appreciate it man, it turned out that the problem was that my dad bought performance fuel injectors and that was spraying more than was needed in the cylinder. I have the BGB and Haynes but unfortunately in both their troubleshooting sections, the injectors are not even a possibility for hesitation, not sure if engineers overlooked or never considered that injectors could cause it. It is fine now but I will check the tps just for preventative maintenance and study the car with the bgb.
dammit i came back to this to see how the tank was removed, i gotta take mine out today
Good luck. Not the nicest Mk1 job...
Crankshaft sensor location
I’m getting no voltage to my injectors and I’ve been looking at all the electrical components related to it and I can’t figure it out
Without a wiring diagram it’s hard to say. The injectors get power from either the ecu or the igntion relay. How are you checking for voltage? When the car is in what state?
@@Resto.Nation the car cranks but doesn’t start and I’ve checked voltage in the fuse box and all the relays that can cause the problem for the injectors but I just came across that there is no voltage going through circuit opening relay.
@@chewyruiz5434 English or American car?
@@Resto.Nation American
@@chewyruiz5434 I think you had an AFM over there so I can’t help you mate sorry.
I am watching this as my Mk2 Turbo wont start. Please dont be the fuel pump/Tank!!
Crankshaft location of 4age