The hat trick is well appreciated!! Sidenote, I stumbled upon a video of you and Kyle Golden which was pretty awesome. Where did Kyle get off to? I heard he has left the car audio game. If thats true, its a big loss.
Love it! Never get tired of your videos. They are so informative and you cover so many topics that I didn't even know existed, let alone know how to do. Your finish work is spectacular and you are a true artist at what you do. Keep up the great work!
Mark, please help me out for the love of God! I have been driving myself crazy looking for individual speaker harness adapters for my 09 altima s. ive found them on the metra site but only retailers can buy from them, from what I can tell. Is there any way u can help out? My factory speakers are driving me nuts and I would love a clean removable install
I work for company that builds multimillion dollar custom yachts... Blue Sea products are the ones we use most often.. they are extremely reliable and easy to work with.. I also buy their products for my personal use..
I just installed that kind of fuse block and only one small thing to watch out for. When you remove the screws with lock washers from positive and ground wires you can strip or cross thread the screws. I stopped this from happening by rotating the screw CCW till you hear the end thread flip down into the hole a little farther, Then screw CW and you will not have a problem with cross threading!!! GREAT fuse block!!!!!! I would recommend highly!!!!! Roger The ExBassGuide
Just got turned on to this fuse block a couple weeks ago and thought it looked awesome. Thanks for giving an in depth demo of it. Would have been nice if stuff like this was readily available back when I was installing! I am about to upgrade the solar setup in my RV and I will be ordering one of these to re-do the convoluted mess that is my current distribution system
They make quality stuff. I have a fuse blocks and busses in my old Jeep. I take it wheeling often so that means a lot of abuse and vibration. No issues ever with their stuff.
Its also got a few more cool features, like the plastic is non flammable up to 1200 degrees for 45 min and even after that it doesnt really burn it "aggressively" melts without actually flaming. Their also disassembable to accommodate a sleek and hidden bridging of circuits and segregation of power supplies. They also have a minor ixp rating
Was selling and using these at an old job 10 years ago, great to see they're still so popular. Looks like they made some really good improvements to the design too.
I’m a marine electrician and I use blue sea products almost daily. All their power distribution products are top notch. They have a safety hub 150 that will also accept higher amperage loads if needed. You should check those out. Also their acr’s are a great solution for charging multi battery setups and their surface mount breakers I use on all my car audio because they are waterproof. They also have remote battery switches that are amazing if you want to cut off high amperage devices and don’t wanna use solenoids. They even have a manual option Incase for some reason the electric switching doesn’t work.
Great video. I've installed three of these. Two were 12 circuit and one a 6 circuit. All three powered LED lights, radio equipment and aux ports. The two 12 circuits were installed under the rear seat of two different Search and Rescue HMMWV and the 6 circuit I installed under the hood of my Jeep Wrangler. For the three years I've put it through a pretty harsh test in my Wrangler. It's been through dust, dirt, mud, water, snow and slush. It hasn't failed me what so ever. No rust, no corrosion and no broken parts. When people ask me what I did with my wiring for everything and I always mention the Blue Sea aux fuse block. Again great video. Blue Sea should hire you lol Sorry for posting on the wife's profile lol.
I use the 12 position + negative one in my bass boat. 1 single 4 AWG power and ground goes to the unit and provides constant power to my relay panel. They are definitely marine grade.
Finally decided to get one for my auxiliary lighting. Definitely a must need for anyone running extra power off there battery. Great product and great review
Designed for marine applications where you have to use full ring terminals as spade terminals are not allowed. Yacht standards do not allow spade terminals because of the motion at sea, spade terminals can theoretically slide out easier.
I've used similar, but not as nearly as flexible fuse panels in the past. That divided fuse sections allowing for both switched and constant connections, plus grounding is pretty darn cool. I found it's a little pricey for what it is, but I'll be using one of these the next time I do an install or an upgrade. Thanks for the heads-up on this product!
Been looking for a fusing solution, I’d never heard of Blue Seas before but a visit to their site was worth it. Found this little 4 fuse block that fits perfect. Thanks Mark
I have one of these mounted to my test bench. It's complete overkill for the short wire runs that I'm using but it's nice to have a fuse for my small test amp and head unit. Eventually going to move it to the car when I ad cooling fans and LEDs. Every hot wire needs a fuse.
I love your videos man. I've learned a lot since I started watching. And the Material lists are fantastic. Too many video makers just show how to do it but never talk about what they use... And extra thanks for the also including budget minded materials and stuff on your lists instead of just top of the line, pro quality stuff. Not all of us system people can afford the best. Keep it up.
I really like that fuse block with the ignition feature, I think it would be cool to ditch the clear plastic cover and make a custom cover using real glass or something simular
I love the channel! I really enjoy your work. I saw the question I had, posted on here but no answer. How do you actually deal with the switched side? I know that you need a relay but what about amperage? How do you wire the relay? Would love to see a video about this.
Need your help. On the b part of the block for accessories, do I need to wire it to a relay ? Or can I just wire it to my ignition switch? Thank you so much for the great videos!
A small peice of open cell foam 1" inch by 1" inch by 1" inch loosely placed in the middle before snapping the cover on will also keep the cover from rattling and can easily be replaced if it crushes and stops doing its job.
Main lugs are spot welded, take it easy on torque - you can break that spot weld and the post will spin making it useless because you cannot tighten or unscrew from that post.
Bkue Sea Systems Safetyhub 150 is where it's at. 4 midi plua 6 atc fuses in one unit + negative bug. If you need switched power then get a small relay and a 6 or 12 position atc block
How do you make a six gauge switched wire? I get how I could just run a six gauge wire from the battery for a constant, but for my switched source, I’ve had to use the wire that’s already available there, running from the ignition switch. Obviously I wouldn’t just splice six gauge wire to the pre-existing 14-16 gauge wire. Thanks for your help, your videos are always super informative..
Nice looking fuse block. Great review and the rattle issue is simply solved. I'm adding a couple relays and a nitrous oxide system to my project car and I'm definitely going to check this company out.
Love the channel Mark! Thanks for all the knowledge you make available to us. I was looking for a nice fuse block a couple of months ago but didn’t come across this particular one. I ended up going to the local pull a part and snagged a really nice one from a wreaked police interceptor that was used just for all the extra bells and whistles like the lights, radios, siren ect. For $6 or $7. I just noted the year of the car and found the schematic online. Something to think about if someone has a lot of extras to wire in like I did.
I wish you would have elaborated a lot more on why and where you would need a “switched positive” for us beginners who are trying to learn. This distribution block also comes available as a “negative bus” block which is even more confusing.
Switched as in car use when the key turns on it will power all the plugs and accessories on that fuse block for the switched one and having it live powered Fuse block will power it constantly with key off
That Blue Sea block is pretty straight. Okay folks, so here will come out the haters and the lazy ones. Torquing the screws and or nuts based on the material they’re made of and for the thread, will yield consistent pressure, downward force on the connection in question. This may appear to be obsessive, but a car is a vibrating environment which g forces and other mechanical stresses are applied to the different mechanical and electrical systems in it. That being said, torquing of fasteners in a vehicle is not, in my opinion, obsessive. The consistency of the elements, such as connections, in this environment, warrant going the extra mile to ensure greater performance. What I have seen in race cars and in the military as well as in aerospace components, torquing of these fasteners yielded repeatable, consistent and reliable results time after time. Some things may sound weird, but that doesn’t mean that they are!
Would this work with accessories like interior LED lights that come originally with a cigarette lighter adapter so I can get rid of the adapter piece? I simply want to have something to tap into if I want to run little low voltage accessories and make it look neat in the car instead of having a bunch of wires tapping into the fuse box lol I'm looking to tap into the ignition relay and run the power to supply to this block. Would you suggest this for my kind of use? Thanks in advance.
Yes !! I would I’m thinking of buying it for this exact reason and having the switched fuse box for lights and other things and live fuse box for usb when car is off I can charge my phone with car off.
Just got a fuse holder for my first amp and maxi fuse is in there with good contact, but is easy to pull out. It just kinda slides out with a little force. But the plates are touching the fuse fully when in. Should I look for better fuse holder? Thanks a lot!
For the switched side do I need to do relays for each accessory on each fuse or do you wire a single relay for the whole switched positive side? I can’t find a video on this! You should do one! I’ve seen you wore a relay into your set up in one of your videos but it wasn’t gone over in depth how you do your relays. (I get it’s not really audio related)
Hello Mark, I am trying to decide how to power one subwoofer amp and a lc2i pro. How would you do this? I wanted to run one power wire from battery to the area where the amp is then use a distribution block to power both devices. I can’t find a block that will provide connection for a 80 amp fuse and a 1 amp fuse. Seems over kill to use 2 distribution blocks for only 2 devices. Any help you can offer? Thanks!
I purchased the ST Blade Split Bus Fuse Block 5032 for my 1984 Chevy S-10 to run auxiliary devices such as air control and gauges. My factory fuse panel is maxed out and I do not want to stack piggyback fuses on the factory fuse panel. Do you have a wiring diagram for running an ACC wire from my factory fuse panel to a continuous duty 150 Amp. solenoid relay to the bottom or switched side of the ST Blade Split Bus Fuse Block 5032? This way when I turn on my ignition the switched items will power up .
Mark get ahold of Ed with Spark Innovations. He has an awesome product he just launched. It's a relay distribution block. Would love to see a review on that
I have a class d amp that requires a 30amp fuse. In theory, could this work for it since its within the tolerance of this device and im not going over the max amperage for the whole thing.
Question for you ? I installed a lighting for my boat front and back lights , when I turn them on the Radio will stop playing? Any idea Thanks in advance great vid by the way!
Thanks for the video just want to confirm.. so 4-6awg power and ground wire from distribution block, let's say an Audison Sfd 41C, to the N- & A+ posts of the BlueSea panel, but for the switched line, would I be best to use my remote lead from head unit into BlueSea panel B+ post, or go into a relay? I want to have my two processors wired and fused thru a product like the BlueSea provides but need help with the switched line. Thanks!
Yes that is true Jacob ecret but the truth behind that is in a boat allocation there is no ground as the boat is either aluminum or fiberglass so it makes it a nice install instead of running a bunch of grounds back to the battery
Do you use 12 gauge wire as your positive wire from the fuse box to the battery and what size fuse do you put in that positive wire to the battery if you don't mind me asking
Happy Friday dudes! Can I get some love for 3 videos in one week? :)
The hat trick is well appreciated!!
Sidenote, I stumbled upon a video of you and Kyle Golden which was pretty awesome. Where did Kyle get off to? I heard he has left the car audio game. If thats true, its a big loss.
Love ur vids man I think u would be soundman future self if he never discovered drugs n his youth
Love it! Never get tired of your videos. They are so informative and you cover so many topics that I didn't even know existed, let alone know how to do. Your finish work is spectacular and you are a true artist at what you do. Keep up the great work!
Good stuff Mark, keep learning with these videos!
Mark, please help me out for the love of God! I have been driving myself crazy looking for individual speaker harness adapters for my 09 altima s. ive found them on the metra site but only retailers can buy from them, from what I can tell. Is there any way u can help out? My factory speakers are driving me nuts and I would love a clean removable install
I work for company that builds multimillion dollar custom yachts... Blue Sea products are the ones we use most often.. they are extremely reliable and easy to work with.. I also buy their products for my personal use..
I used this fuse block for my diy wiring job on my caravan refurb.
I just installed that kind of fuse block and only one small thing to watch out for. When you remove the screws with lock washers from positive and ground wires you can strip or cross thread the screws. I stopped this from happening by rotating the screw CCW till you hear the end thread flip down into the hole a little farther, Then screw CW and you will not have a problem with cross threading!!! GREAT fuse block!!!!!! I would recommend highly!!!!!
Roger The ExBassGuide
Just got turned on to this fuse block a couple weeks ago and thought it looked awesome. Thanks for giving an in depth demo of it. Would have been nice if stuff like this was readily available back when I was installing! I am about to upgrade the solar setup in my RV and I will be ordering one of these to re-do the convoluted mess that is my current distribution system
They make quality stuff. I have a fuse blocks and busses in my old Jeep. I take it wheeling often so that means a lot of abuse and vibration. No issues ever with their stuff.
Its also got a few more cool features, like the plastic is non flammable up to 1200 degrees for 45 min and even after that it doesnt really burn it "aggressively" melts without actually flaming.
Their also disassembable to accommodate a sleek and hidden bridging of circuits and segregation of power supplies.
They also have a minor ixp rating
Was selling and using these at an old job 10 years ago, great to see they're still so popular.
Looks like they made some really good improvements to the design too.
I’m a marine electrician and I use blue sea products almost daily. All their power distribution products are top notch. They have a safety hub 150 that will also accept higher amperage loads if needed. You should check those out. Also their acr’s are a great solution for charging multi battery setups and their surface mount breakers I use on all my car audio because they are waterproof. They also have remote battery switches that are amazing if you want to cut off high amperage devices and don’t wanna use solenoids. They even have a manual option Incase for some reason the electric switching doesn’t work.
Great video. I've installed three of these. Two were 12 circuit and one a 6 circuit. All three powered LED lights, radio equipment and aux ports. The two 12 circuits were installed under the rear seat of two different Search and Rescue HMMWV and the 6 circuit I installed under the hood of my Jeep Wrangler. For the three years I've put it through a pretty harsh test in my Wrangler. It's been through dust, dirt, mud, water, snow and slush. It hasn't failed me what so ever. No rust, no corrosion and no broken parts. When people ask me what I did with my wiring for everything and I always mention the Blue Sea aux fuse block. Again great video. Blue Sea should hire you lol
Sorry for posting on the wife's profile lol.
What did you do about a relay?
Great explanation.
I'm in the middle of an off road touring truck build and this video swayed me to buying the Blue Sea distribution block
Ive used this same brand for my audio in my bus conversion! It works amazing and I enjoy watching your reviews. Thanks for all your help
I use the 12 position + negative one in my bass boat. 1 single 4 AWG power and ground goes to the unit and provides constant power to my relay panel. They are definitely marine grade.
jacob p as far as i know blue sea makes marine stuff, that's why you have the ground distribution.
They sell units with and without ground. I chose to have ground because I'm in a fiberglass boat. The only ground is the negative battery terminal.
Oh I did not know they had without ground distribution
You've got a bass boat? What size subwoofers? Must be nice to go far out on the water and just crank it up.
Sooo nice to see a product that was actually designed to do job and do it well!
Right? It's a solid piece for sure
Finally decided to get one for my auxiliary lighting. Definitely a must need for anyone running extra power off there battery. Great product and great review
Designed for marine applications where you have to use full ring terminals as spade terminals are not allowed. Yacht standards do not allow spade terminals because of the motion at sea, spade terminals can theoretically slide out easier.
It's a fuse block for boats,,,I've installed many,,but I'm useing them in my classic cars now, work very well, and price friendly.
I've used similar, but not as nearly as flexible fuse panels in the past. That divided fuse sections allowing for both switched and constant connections, plus grounding is pretty darn cool. I found it's a little pricey for what it is, but I'll be using one of these the next time I do an install or an upgrade. Thanks for the heads-up on this product!
Been looking for a fusing solution, I’d never heard of Blue Seas before but a visit to their site was worth it. Found this little 4 fuse block that fits perfect. Thanks Mark
You are right the rattling will drive you crazy. And when you take the cover off it still rattles!
I uses a Blue Sea Systems one when I added a second battery and rewired my DTS to my liking a few years ago. A+++
I bought 4 of those fuse blocks . One for my car ,my Truck and 2 for my Tiny house Vardo ... Easy to use .. :-):-):-)
Literally just put one of these in my car for dsp fix and lighting. Great piece!
Haha that's awesome, they make things pretty simple.
I have one of these mounted to my test bench. It's complete overkill for the short wire runs that I'm using but it's nice to have a fuse for my small test amp and head unit. Eventually going to move it to the car when I ad cooling fans and LEDs. Every hot wire needs a fuse.
I have used this block . It’s a great product
Yes nice I love working with those we install those on our police cars👍
I love your videos man. I've learned a lot since I started watching. And the Material lists are fantastic. Too many video makers just show how to do it but never talk about what they use... And extra thanks for the also including budget minded materials and stuff on your lists instead of just top of the line, pro quality stuff. Not all of us system people can afford the best.
Keep it up.
I really like that fuse block with the ignition feature, I think it would be cool to ditch the clear plastic cover and make a custom cover using real glass or something simular
I hope you make a full video how to installed with the accessories switch for the car
Exactly the block I've been eyeing for a while. Blue Sea makes some great stuff
Very cool! That's a fantastic product. Dealing with sharing power for multiple devices like this has often been an annoyance for me
I was looking for a fuse block for a solar installation for a van and your channel came up and I also liked the smd power distribution block
I'm watching this for the same reason only running it from a house battery
I love the channel! I really enjoy your work. I saw the question I had, posted on here but no answer. How do you actually deal with the switched side? I know that you need a relay but what about amperage? How do you wire the relay? Would love to see a video about this.
Great video! Can you point me in the right direction to know when to use a switched vs constant positive fuse? thank you!
Need your help. On the b part of the block for accessories, do I need to wire it to a relay ? Or can I just wire it to my ignition switch? Thank you so much for the great videos!
A small peice of open cell foam 1" inch by 1" inch by 1" inch loosely placed in the middle before snapping the cover on will also keep the cover from rattling and can easily be replaced if it crushes and stops doing its job.
These are great products! Have one in my daily and just ran out of empty locations
If you can find one a Phoenix gold dd10 will achieve the same result and look way better, it's nice to have a "delay on" feature
What size are the positive and negative terminals ? 3/8? And the smaller ones 1/4”?
Great video!! Looking for information regarding the braided wiring that you use, that is connected to the fused output.
Thanks!
Main lugs are spot welded, take it easy on torque - you can break that spot weld and the post will spin making it useless because you cannot tighten or unscrew from that post.
Bkue Sea Systems Safetyhub 150 is where it's at. 4 midi plua 6 atc fuses in one unit + negative bug. If you need switched power then get a small relay and a 6 or 12 position atc block
I have the 6 position version of the same and it is spot on!
+Carl Norrbom nice, yeah they have a pretty nice assortment, I linked the 6 position one as well in video description
How do you make a six gauge switched wire? I get how I could just run a six gauge wire from the battery for a constant, but for my switched source, I’ve had to use the wire that’s already available there, running from the ignition switch. Obviously I wouldn’t just splice six gauge wire to the pre-existing 14-16 gauge wire. Thanks for your help, your videos are always super informative..
it doesn't matter what you did, Mark👍
Nice looking fuse block. Great review and the rattle issue is simply solved. I'm adding a couple relays and a nitrous oxide system to my project car and I'm definitely going to check this company out.
Mobile solutions use to have a nice fuse block but this one is better 👌🏼
Love the channel Mark! Thanks for all the knowledge you make available to us. I was looking for a nice fuse block a couple of months ago but didn’t come across this particular one. I ended up going to the local pull a part and snagged a really nice one from a wreaked police interceptor that was used just for all the extra bells and whistles like the lights, radios, siren ect.
For $6 or $7. I just noted the year of the car and found the schematic online. Something to think about if someone has a lot of extras to wire in like I did.
Thanks! Awsome it’s a 100A max !
Nice quality review. Clear audio and video. Thanks.
Used one of these last week. love them
Can you please show an example(process) on how you would connect a power window, adding a switch then how you would connect to the fuse box
That looks nice enough to use on my shed solar system
I wish you would have elaborated a lot more on why and where you would need a “switched positive” for us beginners who are trying to learn.
This distribution block also comes available as a “negative bus” block which is even more confusing.
Switched as in car use when the key turns on it will power all the plugs and accessories on that fuse block for the switched one and having it live powered Fuse block will power it constantly with key off
I have a very similar one just smaller, the one I have has a push and twist lock in the middle so keeps it nice and snug.
Just bought one, thanks. Do you still need to run an inline 10 amp fuse from radio to block?
As per usual, excellent writeup- Thanks!
now this is awesome for wiring up multiple accessories. GREAT VID
Yep I use one of these. It's pretty cool.
This would be great for campervan builds or trailers too.
Thanks for this! Great video!!🎉
That Blue Sea block is pretty straight. Okay folks, so here will come out the haters and the lazy ones. Torquing the screws and or nuts based on the material they’re made of and for the thread, will yield consistent pressure, downward force on the connection in question. This may appear to be obsessive, but a car is a vibrating environment which g forces and other mechanical stresses are applied to the different mechanical and electrical systems in it. That being said, torquing of fasteners in a vehicle is not, in my opinion, obsessive. The consistency of the elements, such as connections, in this environment, warrant going the extra mile to ensure greater performance. What I have seen in race cars and in the military as well as in aerospace components, torquing of these fasteners yielded repeatable, consistent and reliable results time after time. Some things may sound weird, but that doesn’t mean that they are!
Been using these a while. Very useful!
Do you need 2 battery’s for the 5032 to work or can you run 2 taps off the positive side of battery to feed it?
Would this work with accessories like interior LED lights that come originally with a cigarette lighter adapter so I can get rid of the adapter piece?
I simply want to have something to tap into if I want to run little low voltage accessories and make it look neat in the car instead of having a bunch of wires tapping into the fuse box lol
I'm looking to tap into the ignition relay and run the power to supply to this block. Would you suggest this for my kind of use? Thanks in advance.
Yes !! I would I’m thinking of buying it for this exact reason and having the switched fuse box for lights and other things and live fuse box for usb when car is off I can charge my phone with car off.
I've just discovered your channel and want to thank you for your videos!
how do u hook a switched main power wire to it, im confused how this actually works….i bought one but lost at what to do
Good vid, do those connect right to battery or do i tap into something else for the power
That thing is brilliant
Just got a fuse holder for my first amp and maxi fuse is in there with good contact, but is easy to pull out. It just kinda slides out with a little force. But the plates are touching the fuse fully when in. Should I look for better fuse holder? Thanks a lot!
Hey those look great. Thanks for the demo.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Just ordered it. As always, great video man! Please make more.
That's a great block I like it thanks for the video
For the switched side do I need to do relays for each accessory on each fuse or do you wire a single relay for the whole switched positive side? I can’t find a video on this! You should do one! I’ve seen you wore a relay into your set up in one of your videos but it wasn’t gone over in depth how you do your relays. (I get it’s not really audio related)
I second this. It’s appeared in a few videos but never addressed in depth.
Great Video- Thank you ! ! !
Hello Mark, I am trying to decide how to power one subwoofer amp and a lc2i pro. How would you do this? I wanted to run one power wire from battery to the area where the amp is then use a distribution block to power both devices. I can’t find a block that will provide connection for a 80 amp fuse and a 1 amp fuse. Seems over kill to use 2 distribution blocks for only 2 devices. Any help you can offer? Thanks!
Is there a relay you would recommend to connect to a 12v switched source to turn the whole block into a switched block?
If the whole block needs to be switched, then you would just want a single circuit, fused distribution block.
I love mine i got tired of my wires looking like crap. In my jeep ill keep on buy these fuse blocks
Have you looked at the safety hub 150?
So just so I understand correctly, you said not to use this to power the sub & amp? I have a 150W Sub/Amp I am looking to power with this
I purchased the ST Blade Split Bus Fuse Block 5032 for my 1984 Chevy S-10 to run auxiliary devices such as air control and gauges. My factory fuse panel is maxed out and I do not want to stack piggyback fuses on the factory fuse panel. Do you have a wiring diagram for running an ACC wire from my factory fuse panel to a continuous duty 150 Amp. solenoid relay to the bottom or switched side of the ST Blade Split Bus Fuse Block 5032? This way when I turn on my ignition the switched items will power up .
hello! can i use this block for amp remote wire? and what is the perfect guage please
Mark get ahold of Ed with Spark Innovations. He has an awesome product he just launched. It's a relay distribution block. Would love to see a review on that
do you have a link?
Good honest review
Another great review.
Used some of their products in the recent past
Very nice review. You channel is amazing!
+mike kauffman thank you! Glad you like it
I have a class d amp that requires a 30amp fuse. In theory, could this work for it since its within the tolerance of this device and im not going over the max amperage for the whole thing.
Question for you ? I installed a lighting for my boat front and back lights , when I turn them on the Radio will stop playing? Any idea Thanks in advance great vid by the way!
Hi,
Where did you order those fuses from?
That is a nice quality product.
So what do you connect to this ? The positive wire of your device?
Thanks for the video just want to confirm.. so 4-6awg power and ground wire from distribution block, let's say an Audison Sfd 41C, to the N- & A+ posts of the BlueSea panel, but for the switched line, would I be best to use my remote lead from head unit into BlueSea panel B+ post, or go into a relay?
I want to have my two processors wired and fused thru a product like the BlueSea provides but need help with the switched line.
Thanks!
Theoretically you can keep your chassis grounds and just connect the power to the block
Yes that is true Jacob ecret but the truth behind that is in a boat allocation there is no ground as the boat is either aluminum or fiberglass so it makes it a nice install instead of running a bunch of grounds back to the battery
Do you have a link to the wire loom material that you use?
I ditched my Blue Sea for a Bussman RTMR. MUCH nicer quality, check them out
Im doing the same thing, not quite as easy an install, but much cleaner and built in relays
Do you use 12 gauge wire as your positive wire from the fuse box to the battery and what size fuse do you put in that positive wire to the battery if you don't mind me asking
I wish you lived in utah, lol.... i would pick your brain for days about stuff.... I need help getting my system perfect-ish
awesome vid thank you again for the info
+chupamishuevos303 thanks for watching!
Agreed- I have two - cheers
Would the main -NEG goto your -NEG busbar and then two +MAIN screws to +BUSBAR then to battery?