Best Fuse Block for Car Audio: Fuse Block Review
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 มิ.ย. 2024
- In this video I go through my collection of fuse blocks and I tell you which one is the best fuse block for car audio.
What is your favorite fuse block? Tell me about it in the comments!
Affiliate links to the items used in the video*:
Small fuse block: amzn.to/2RzGmMP
Large fuse block: amzn.to/3cktQZP
Huge fuse block: amzn.to/3ejMMcU
Power distribution block: amzn.to/3a1Zs4F
*As an affiliate marketer I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I daisy chained an 8g in-line fuse for my lil 12 inch woof off the distribution blocks extra 0g out. I added an extra amp and needed the fuse so that’s cool that some have the daisy chain option
Agree 100%.
Less is usually better, and that applies here, too. Simply keep the ground block & fused power distributions seperate. No need to make things more complicated, right? Besides, that makes things much easier when expanding one's system with another amp. Cuz 4 is never enough!
You opened my eyes on some stuff and thanks for that
Cool.
great presentation thanks for all the info.
Glad it was helpful!
14:00 looks like I found my fuse block.
I'm considering rewiring my car (probably not soon) to do it the right way and I want my 4 gauge to distribute to 4 gauge for my sub amp (with a 80A fuse probably) and 8 gauge for my 4 channel. (Maybe a 40A fuse)
Then ground with the same thing and ask for the ground things you mentioned.
Should be fine for my 600w sub amp and 300w 4 channel.
My 4 channel is wired to 4 ohm not 2 ohm so it really can only do 200w + efficiency loss. But better to fuse it above what it can do. And not above what the wire can handle.
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Looks like I never got the notification for this upload back then, weird. Any who, awesome review! With the countless installs I do, I always find myself in an odd angle with my my feet dangling out the trunk, despite my ocd of over prepping to avoid it at all costs! If I had to use that infinite configurable design in one of those moments, I’d probably end up drenched in sweat and cursing like a mad man 😂! It is a great design though👍. I actually use those install gear non fused ones for my single set of subwoofer wires I’m restricted to when competing. Even though my amps usually have two sets that are summed, I still am only allowed one set of conductors until it gets to the enclosure. To keep things tidy, I end up having a long run most of the time trying to hide as many wires as i can; so I end up using a + and - set of 4gauge to 8 gauge reducers at the amp, then run those 4 gauge wires to separate install gear distros mounted on the enclosure with a ferrule on the input side. That allows me to wire each of my 2 dvc subs with independent 8 gauge runs coming off each individual coil to disto block. Sounds confusing, but I tend to go a little overkill on my subwoofer wires to insure minimum heat build up and maximum current flow coming off that single set of wires I’m restricted to at the amp. So I love those little things. I probably have like 16 of them over the years 😁
That's really damn clever man. I remember you mentioning in one of your videos about the single pair of wires for the subwoofers. I remember thinking that rule seems really restrictive. But clever people find a way around the rules without breaking them.
DIY Audio Guy ya it’s a pain to do all that, but by limiting everyone to run only two conductors per amp, makes it more consistent and easier for judges when they have to probe and clamp your amp to monitor your wattage for each class.
Good video review!
Thank you sir! Next step is to set them outside in the weather and see how fast they rust!
There you go
I like the budget part at the end, very well done.
@@BrandinDanesi I am glad to hear that! I was looking over the analytics and I lost a TON of viewers as soon as the spreadsheet hit the screen!
This really helped
Glad to help.
good video!
Hey! Thanks! Have you ever used any of these?
@@DIYAudioGuy no i have not. i was thinking about the infinite one, but after watching the struggle, i probably will not buy it. seems like if your equipment had an issue. you would have to deinstall it completely so you do not touch power and ground with the allen.
@@bnaudio7813 you would definitely need to remove the negative battery terminal. But, you should probably do that anyway.
@@DIYAudioGuy i understand. just seems like a pain. But, the price and flexibility. always a compromise somehow.
I dont know if you still reply to this. But could you recommend what size fuse i would need? 80amp,100amp,130amp. I have 2 amplifiers that say there 1600watts/800rms each. I have 4 gauge wire straight back and then spit at distribution block with 4 gauge to amps right now until i upgrade to 0gauge spit to 4 gauge. Thanks
Believe it or not that is not an easy question. The short answer is to check the owner's manual and follow those guidelines. If you don't have access to an owner's manual then you want your fuse on your 4 gauge wire at the battery to be equal to the total amount of fuses that are on the amplifiers.
The long answer is that the fuse on the amplifier is designed to protect the amp, and hopefully the speakers as well, and the fuse on your power wire is designed to protect the wire. you want the fuse to blow before The wire gets hot. Because when the wire gets hot you start a fire.
this video here will help you figure out what size power wire that you need and the video also shows a calculation for the fuse size.
th-cam.com/video/To4uT85DUrY/w-d-xo.html
Don't go by watts, go by the amp draw on your amp, or amps combined.
When you put the wires in the distribution block do you have to have the main power cord unplugged from the battery?
That is best practice, but I don't always do it.
are there any pure copper d blocks? all the ones on amazon and ebay is brass which is less conductive, is it gonna cause a bottleneck using brass blocks?
That's a good question. I don't have a reasonable answer for you at the moment.
@@DIYAudioGuywhat about now Brotha? Great channel Man!
@@jamescorfield534 I I've seen them on the down4sound website!
Great information, ty, SUB’d. Peace out..:)
Thank you!
Do I have to match the fuse(amps) with the battery amps?
If the battery got more amp than the fuse amp with blow?
The fuse is based on the current draw of the amplifier and the size of the power wire. If the amplifier is drawing 80 amperes you need a fuse at least that big. If you're using 8 gauge copper wire the wire can only handle 50 ampers of current. So you would need to jump up to 4 gauge wire which can handle 125 ampers of current. This video may help:
th-cam.com/video/To4uT85DUrY/w-d-xo.html
@@DIYAudioGuy so can a 12v 1200watt car battery power up a 2000 watts amp (40x3 fuse)?
With 120 amperes of fuses the amplifier is unlikely to produce 2,000 watts. Head over to the Williston Audio Labs Channel and watch a few of his videos, he does a good job explaining how that works.
As far as batteries go, I don't know enough about batteries to give you a reasonable answer.
so just to get this right... If I have two 4 gauge wires (wiring kit for amp), I can get the large fused block and connect them to 8 gauge wires on the other end (for my amp that is set up for 8 gauge wires), right??
And on amazon theres a bunch of different options for amp sizes... can anyone assist please?
Yes, and you will need a fuse on the smaller wire.
It depends on what you are trying to do.
@@DIYAudioGuy another fuse on top of the one in the block already? I have 4 awg wiring in my car and the amp I’m trying to connect it to is like 8or 10 awg... from what I understand it’s either I get a spade or this block thing looks legit but not sure if that’s what it’s actually made for and how well it would transfer the power to the amp
@@vladimiroboukhov8395 You need a fuse under the hood near the battery on the 4 gauge, then when you reduce down to the 8 gauge you need to install another fuse.
I really don know how to count after i watch vedio..... 😅
Better i ask like this.
I got 4 channel 1200w and 2 channel 1800w.
And start on bateri 4ga 60a fuis to behind use 1 to 3 way 30a fuis 8ga join the 2 amplifier and 14ga out to door speaker with twitter , 10ga for woofer. And the gruond its join 3 to 1 way no fuis to car casis body .
Will this correct and save?
Something about your numbers does not make sense to me. 3000 watts will require a much bigger fuse, and 4 gauge wire will not be big enough.
I’m new to car audio where does the 0gauge come from and where does the 4 gauge wire go to ??
0 comes from the battery and 2 seperate 4 wires go to each amp to power them
Do u always have to use 0 gauge wire if u use a distribution block?
No, you can use 4 gauge in and 4 gauge out.
DIY Audio Guy thanks so much. I wanted to power my other amp too.
I have a 12" L7 pushing a mono kicker 880rms amp with 1g power wire. Now I'm on my 2and block this one is doing same thing. Right after the block on a hard hit it will short out. Then I half to jiggle the fuse. So at the block is 13 volts after it cuts out it drops to 6 volts right behind the power block. I do t get it.
Wow, make sure the block itself is secure and try using a ferule. If that does not help find somebody local that can help troubleshoot.
Hey man does it matter what way the fuses go on
I don't think it matters.
Crimp the ferrule before inserting into the PDB
That's what she said!
Brother you can get 300 amp mini anl fuses
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Compression fittings for electrical is crap on anything under 10K volts.
Wire ferrels is the only way to go after a solid crimp
I would rather have one that could handle a ferral
I agree
Like 8......love this video....full watch....great review....enjoyed it...plZ watch my newly uploaded video
Glad you liked it! Have you used any of these fuse blocks?
Yeah I'll pass on the fues block
Team no fuse?
Hi, is that Knukonceptz BK-2030 fuse block good to mount in the engine bay?
I would not, you want something a bit more waterproof.
@@DIYAudioGuy Okay, i'll take a look at those. Thank you.