It is always a good practice to wrap the cap tube distributor with a wet rag as your brazing to stop heat transfer from the torch to the distributor.This will prevent the distributor from becoming unsweat which will create an even bigger problem than just a simple txv replacement and if in doubt the best thing is to disassemble the txv before brazing. And that goopy heat sink as a rule is not nearly as effective as the wet rag method.
cgreen, I learned this trick from a top refrigeration mechanic from a major commercial refrigeration company here in Seattle years ago. anyway take care.
Hey Dr z try that heat spray ON the rags. If done right you can keep a bare hand on the txv (not recommended) a smaller tip on your torch will minimize oxidation if your not purging with nitrogen. Regardless good videos its very refreshing to see people that enjoy their work!
@somerandomdude82 The holes on the side of the evaporator are just runs in the evaporator that are not being used in the system application. The manufacture will make the same coil for many different unit sizes. Then in the same factory, the loops on the ends are installed for the specific unit.
May i suggest fluxing the joint with silver solder flux, hitting it first with high percentage silver and then put the stick to it. You will find they mix togethor really well and make a smoother joint. Yes I am in the trade with licenses in refrigeration, boilers, hvac electrical, and epa cert.
In htg mode the suction line is hot going to the indoor coil and the liquid line warm coming back from the indoor coil. If the unit is overcharged it will be hotter than it should be. Also, if the indoor coil or filter is dirty and the air exhange is diminished the same condition will apply. Try tapping on the side of the TXV and taking the bulb off and putting into a cup of ice water and then warm it up in your hands and try to massage it back to life. This only works once inawhile.
Thanks. David let the vacuum pump on the system overnight then did a triple evacuation the next day before charging the system. It's cooling great now.
I think you are right about that. The defrost sensor is located on one of the feeder tubes coming off the TXV, and those tubes are becoming so cold, that it is putting the system into an unwanted defrost, when there's no ice on the coils. My subcooling is too high, so does this sound like a stuck TXV?
I work for the school board. I work on anything from a small window shaker to a 200 ton chillwater system and anything from a domestic refrigerator to a walk-in freezer. Also, I maintain ice machines and line servers.
It sounds like it is not feeding enough refrigerant. There is also and outdoor check valve that can mess up giving harder to diagnose symptoms for most of us. If the suction pressure is low and the superheat high in htg, and your txv is frosting it probably is the problem. The heads on txv's can fail to open and most of the small cheap ones are one piece so you cant change the heads only.They also have an inlet screen. Also a defrost is needed when the outdoor coil is starting to get frosty.
If you can use a voltmeter check out the circuitry using the diagram on the door or in the papers for the unit. Trace the power to the fan forwards and backwards. Thats the only way to really prove stuff. Anything can go wrong. I have had factory guys telling me the same thing on complicated flaky Pulse boilers, "Im not there in front of it so its hard to tell over the phone".
In your TXV video you recommend taking the valve apart when soldering it in so you don't overheat any internal parts. With that much wet rag you need a lot of heat to compensate for the rag, would it be better to take the valve apart and use less rag so you are on and off that joint quick.
I was brazing a connection on an evaporator in a beer keg cooler, it had plastic beer lines going from the walkin out to the beer taps at the bar. The beer lines were mounted on the back wall, I was brazing about 2 1/2 ft away from them,the heat caused the plastic to swell and pop,I got covered with Guinness foam,I looked like the swamp thing,I had to run out to the bar and get the bar tender to turn the keg off.Some drunk customer said"what are they doing to you back there"I got a beer shampoo.
Another good thing to do when working on the coil before installing it in the cooler, is extent the liquid and suction lines outside of the casing and sweat yourself in some access fittings. Then, if time allows, pressure test your coil, valve, and field brazing with 100lb's of nitrogen overnight. As for the heat sink paste, and cool gel... I agree, the rags work much better.
What's weird, is that I have seen the condenser fan stop during defrost before, but for about a year now, the condenser fan no longer stops for defrost. It was in the 40s outside when I tried the force defrost.
why ?, I've been using stay brite #8 since the 70s when it came out. If you have to take a part apart it makes things nicer. Also you use lower heat when you solder, thats good for the expansion valve. The stay brite #8 was designed initially for installing high side components, it has 8% silver. It can handle high pressures and higher heat tension.
I would add a leak sealer to a system only if it's too old to get a new evaporator or if the owner of the system doesn't want to spend a lot of money on a system they plan to replace soon.
Did you know you can use soft solder it requires less temperature to become a liquid. It is actually the recommendation of Sprorlan Valves to use Soft Solder.
Hey Dr. I understand why you were timid with the heat on that last TXV joint, I think ALL HVAC techs have been guilty of this at some point in their career. I will credit you for at least using an Oxy-acetylene torch on those joints as opposed to what most techs I've seen use. If you look back in your text books, you'll be reminded of why oxy-acetylene is recommended. It's about as hot and small a flame as you can make, allowing you to pinpoint the heat on that joint, get it HOT quickly and get the hell out of there ASAP to prevent that heat from getting sopped up by components you don't want to get hot. Also, and this applies to most other techs out there, don't focus on or worry about making a "cap" or fillet on the joint. Brazing is an "adhesive" process (think gluing). The STRONGEST braze joint is created when the filler rod wicks into or penetrates the ENTIRE surface area of the joint.
hey try soldering ! i am 66 retired and it works and dont have to worry about melting anyway LOL dr z ,,,,,its denis here LOL just caught you on another place ha ha ,,,,,i could never have my colleagues in the hvac agree but i did it plenty of times with some chosen individuals ,,,,,,just saying ,,,,,less heat and just as much strength ! dr z was a certified welder as young as i was in the days ,,,,,hope you knee is better jim
@@DrZarkloff i know jim i was just more or less saying its good to see you ,,,at my age 66 this november 19 i really dont care how one chooses to weld their stuff LOL ,,,,,be safe no injury is the key to all trades ,,,,happy hollydays to all
Should direct torch flame away from valve body, flow nitrogen to avoid oxidation flakes inside lines. For "smaller" lines, apply heat on one side of joint, and silfos 90 degrees or so from flame, and let solder run to the heated location, rather than apply silfos-15 at flame site as seen, to much solder applied for line size I think. A squirt drink bottle is nice to easily re-wet the heat sink rags while busy one-man sweating, but do protect that manifold, t-shirt rag strips are indeed the best.
Usually replace the coils because they develp leaks. Usually the leaks are in the tube sheet headers although they dont have to be. The copper tubes can become half moon shape from freezing and re-freezing crushing them on heat pumps anyway. Coils are expensive as most everything in this HVAC trade is. Get several quotes and go with a good outfit if you can.
@DrZarkloff 1. how big was your tx valve 2. how big was your coil 3. how big was your compressor? 4. was the compressor mounted close by? or was a remote condenser or rooftop unit?
If this is an R134a evaporator, I'm all for using screwed fittings. A lot easier install. Pressures are not that great on such a system, and you don't have to worry about the high heat on the txv. Just my opinion.
You guys need to chill out when it comes to weild a valve, while it is important to cover it, theres no need to take 5 min to roll it up, one or two wet cloth and youre good to go. It is more important to do it quick then to struggle to do a good job because your heat sink is too close from where youre weilding. Also don't be scared to heat it up enough to do a good weilding i know they can get quite expencive and you dont want to scrap one but it is worst when you take too long to heat it up and to heat it again to make sure the sylfoss went all around then heating it up a bit more one time and do a quick job. srry if you cant understand me very well, english isnt my main language.
@DrZarkloff have u ever botherd of looking at the orifice .. tiny like a hair .. 1/4 is to big... but yet u decide to use 3/8 liquid... witch is twice as big as u need
was nitrogen used after he pulled the txv away from the valve? i hears a blast of air or something but i think it was the torch. oxidizing inside of the system will cause you many problems in the long term
just to call you out on the gas flow through the torch tip, that tip was set correctly. without sufficient gas flow, your tip will heat up really fast. aside from that, yeah, this wasn't done the best that it could have been done.
with my hvac gauges, robin air vacuum pump, and a cylinder of 404 .. no, i didn't use nitrogen as recommended, but ive never done that with any other ac system or ever seen anyone around here do it.
ok well if the reversing valve is shifting to start a defrost and the fan doenst stop the board would be the culprit, but you already knew that. in our state of washington, it is hard to buy hvac parts unless a person works in the trade or has a contractors license. it used to be easier to get parts.
Dr Z, do you recommend adding a leak sealer from clip light to a 410a system? The leaks appears to be in the evaporator and it is very small. What other leak sealers do you recommend?
I know I probably sound over-dramatic, but I personally would wrap the TXV instead of tearing it apart because I think there is a risk of the parts being thrown out of adjustment when taking it apart. By the way, do you still work with Dave?
I was wondering what solder you are using, since I don't do a lot of brass to copper soldering-brazing I asked at the local supply house and they recommended a rod with a white powdery flux on it. What an abortion that joint turned out. I need to go out and buy another valve and start over. Sporlan R-410 valve 2 ton. Can you use Silphos?
I noticed, when I crossed the force defrost pins on the board, it would not force a defrost. If it will not force defrost properly, does that mean the board could be bad?
I watched the stuck TXV force the system into defrost, and I noticed something kinda scary. The fan normally stops during defrost, but for some reason, the fan won't stop for defrost anymore. It's blowing cold air over the coils, and causing the defrost to go for a long time. Could a failed defrost board cause the fan to keep running in defrost mode, or could it be something else?
What really pisses me off is when I see areas on the side of an evaporator, where there are empty holes in the side where copper pipe should go through.
I had my 2 ton heat pump recharged, and had a leak fixed recently, and just as it was being charge, the TXV got stuck, so I had them over charge the system to lower the superheat until I could get the TXV replaced. I put the system into heat mode recently, and the suction line got very hot on heat mode, but the liquid line was room temperature. Could a stuck outdoor TXV cause a room-temperature liquid line in heat mode?
Hiya Dr Z. Would it not be practical to connect up that TXV via flared connections instead? Lot less hassles replacing when they "die"...Just a thought :-)
+Charles O'Connor it is easier to replace yes, but txv's shouldnt go bad. a power head from time to time, but not the valve unless you are switching refrigerants. i did find one clogged with leak lock but that was the only instance.
Are there diffrint kind of HVAC / HVAC - R Work. And if there are What are they if you know. And what knid Do you do. What company do you work for if you don't mind me asking
These gents already contaminated the TXV on the first braze with no nitrogen present. Then these 2 rookies spend an incredibly long time re-wrapping with the wet rag. And then still with no nitrogen as he ties in the TXV to the coil, overheating the TXV fitting in the process. BOOOO!
Always run nitrogen through when brazing. You will get flaking on the inside and you will never be able to blow it out after words. There will be some stuck in the txv. They will be back to change something in that system. txv would be my opinion. But thats not worth much.
The customer paid for Jim to record this video. "what's the extra 300 dollars for on the quote?" "That's so my journeyman can record a video for TH-cam"
Didn't clean the braze surfaces, no flux (regardless of using CuP alloy), too short a flame kernel, aiming the flame towards the heat sensitive component, quenching a fresh braze with water, and not 'chasing the braze all the way around to ensure a fluid joint was made. Personal pref, CuP for interfaces and at least 15% Ag for Cu/Cu or Cu/Cu alloy.
I am a self professed AMATEUR at brazing...That last joint was garbage. Not enough heat, that solder is barely hanging in the lip. I have made a couple ugly joints, and after I take a look with a mirror and light, I immediately go back and re-sweat the joint (brazing, oxy-acet, with nitro), I refuse to do ugly and call it a day. Get that swage red then the silphos will FLOW into the heat and make a gorgeous joint.
It is always a good practice to wrap the cap tube distributor with a wet rag as your brazing to stop heat transfer from the torch to the distributor.This will prevent the distributor from becoming unsweat which will create an even bigger problem than just a simple txv replacement and if in doubt the best thing is to disassemble the txv before brazing. And that goopy heat sink as a rule is not nearly as effective as the wet rag method.
cgreen, I learned this trick from a top refrigeration mechanic from a major commercial refrigeration company here in Seattle years ago. anyway take care.
Hey Dr z try that heat spray ON the rags. If done right you can keep a bare hand on the txv (not recommended) a smaller tip on your torch will minimize oxidation if your not purging with nitrogen. Regardless good videos its very refreshing to see people that enjoy their work!
@somerandomdude82 The holes on the side of the evaporator are just runs in the evaporator that are not being used in the system application. The manufacture will make the same coil for many different unit sizes. Then in the same factory, the loops on the ends are installed for the specific unit.
May i suggest fluxing the joint with silver solder flux, hitting it first with high percentage silver and then put the stick to it. You will find they mix togethor really well and make a smoother joint. Yes I am in the trade with licenses in refrigeration, boilers, hvac electrical, and epa cert.
In htg mode the suction line is hot going to the indoor coil and the liquid line warm coming back from the indoor coil. If the unit is overcharged it will be hotter than it should be. Also, if the indoor coil or filter is dirty and the air exhange is diminished the same condition will apply. Try tapping on the side of the TXV and taking the bulb off and putting into a cup of ice water and then warm it up in your hands and try to massage it back to life. This only works once inawhile.
I usually take the TXV apart before brazing. It just make me feel better about the job.
Thanks. David let the vacuum pump on the system overnight then did a triple evacuation the next day before charging the system. It's cooling great now.
Great video, love watching you guys work together, very entertaining.
I think you are right about that. The defrost sensor is located on one of the feeder tubes coming off the TXV, and those tubes are becoming so cold, that it is putting the system into an unwanted defrost, when there's no ice on the coils. My subcooling is too high, so does this sound like a stuck TXV?
I work for the school board. I work on anything from a small window shaker to a 200 ton chillwater system and anything from a domestic refrigerator to a walk-in freezer. Also, I maintain ice machines and line servers.
It sounds like it is not feeding enough refrigerant. There is also and outdoor check valve that can mess up giving harder to diagnose symptoms for most of us. If the suction pressure is low and the superheat high in htg, and your txv is frosting it probably is the problem. The heads on txv's can fail to open and most of the small cheap ones are one piece so you cant change the heads only.They also have an inlet screen. Also a defrost is needed when the outdoor coil is starting to get frosty.
@LarryInTheVI I think that it is better to take the valve apart before soldering.
@LarryInTheVI I use 15% silphos all the time as long as I'm brazing copper to copper. If there's steel involved then I use a 45% silver solder.
If you can use a voltmeter check out the circuitry using the diagram on the door or in the papers for the unit. Trace the power to the fan forwards and backwards. Thats the only way to really prove stuff. Anything can go wrong. I have had factory guys telling me the same thing on complicated flaky Pulse boilers, "Im not there in front of it so its hard to tell over the phone".
generally yes, but it depends on the unit, if the defrost sensors are cold enough to allow one, and things like that.
In your TXV video you recommend taking the valve apart when soldering it in so you don't overheat any internal parts. With that much wet rag you need a lot of heat to compensate for the rag, would it be better to take the valve apart and use less rag so you are on and off that joint quick.
I was brazing a connection on an evaporator in a beer keg cooler, it had plastic beer lines going from the walkin out to the beer taps at the bar. The beer lines were mounted on the back wall, I was brazing about 2 1/2 ft away from them,the heat caused the plastic to swell and pop,I got covered with Guinness foam,I looked like the swamp thing,I had to run out to the bar and get the bar tender to turn the keg off.Some drunk customer said"what are they doing to you back there"I got a beer shampoo.
The equalizing tube is the tube on the TXV that's plumbed into the suction line.
Another good thing to do when working on the coil before installing it in the cooler, is extent the liquid and suction lines outside of the casing and sweat yourself in some access fittings. Then, if time allows, pressure test your coil, valve, and field brazing with 100lb's of nitrogen overnight. As for the heat sink paste, and cool gel... I agree, the rags work much better.
What's weird, is that I have seen the condenser fan stop during defrost before, but for about a year now, the condenser fan no longer stops for defrost. It was in the 40s outside when I tried the force defrost.
@poland2010 Are you talking about a liquid line filter drier? A filter drier filters out the moisture and non condensables.
why ?, I've been using stay brite #8 since the 70s when it came out. If you have to take a part apart it makes things nicer. Also you use lower heat when you solder, thats good for the expansion valve. The stay brite #8 was designed initially for installing high side components, it has 8% silver. It can handle high pressures and higher heat tension.
Excelente vídeo explicativo saludo deje Venezuela
I would add a leak sealer to a system only if it's too old to get a new evaporator or if the owner of the system doesn't want to spend a lot of money on a system they plan to replace soon.
You might want to check out the fan switch in the air handler.
Did you know you can use soft solder it requires less temperature to become a liquid. It is actually the recommendation of Sprorlan Valves to use Soft Solder.
Hey Dr.
I understand why you were timid with the heat on that last TXV joint, I think ALL HVAC techs have been guilty of this at some point in their career.
I will credit you for at least using an Oxy-acetylene torch on those joints as opposed to what most techs I've seen use. If you look back in your text books, you'll be reminded of why oxy-acetylene is recommended.
It's about as hot and small a flame as you can make, allowing you to pinpoint the heat on that joint, get it HOT quickly and get the hell out of there ASAP to prevent that heat from getting sopped up by components you don't want to get hot.
Also, and this applies to most other techs out there, don't focus on or worry about making a "cap" or fillet on the joint. Brazing is an "adhesive" process (think gluing). The STRONGEST braze joint is created when the filler rod wicks into or penetrates the ENTIRE surface area of the joint.
hey try soldering ! i am 66 retired and it works and dont have to worry about melting anyway LOL dr z ,,,,,its denis here LOL just caught you on another place ha ha ,,,,,i could never have my colleagues in the hvac agree but i did it plenty of times with some chosen individuals ,,,,,,just saying ,,,,,less heat and just as much strength ! dr z was a certified welder as young as i was in the days ,,,,,hope you knee is better jim
Thanks. My new knee has been a new lease on life for me. By the way, I'm not the one that's soldering in this video. It's actually a coworker.
@@DrZarkloff i know jim i was just more or less saying its good to see you ,,,at my age 66 this november 19 i really dont care how one chooses to weld their stuff LOL ,,,,,be safe no injury is the key to all trades ,,,,happy hollydays to all
@poland2010 You need to use the proper size liquid line filter drier, otherwise the drier could act as a restictor.
Should direct torch flame away from valve body, flow nitrogen to avoid oxidation flakes inside lines. For "smaller" lines, apply heat on one side of joint, and silfos 90 degrees or so from flame, and let solder run to the heated location, rather than apply silfos-15 at flame site as seen, to much solder applied for line size I think. A squirt drink bottle is nice to easily re-wet the heat sink rags while busy one-man sweating, but do protect that manifold, t-shirt rag strips are indeed the best.
Usually replace the coils because they develp leaks. Usually the leaks are in the tube sheet headers although they dont have to be. The copper tubes can become half moon shape from freezing and re-freezing crushing them on heat pumps anyway. Coils are expensive as most everything in this HVAC trade is. Get several quotes and go with a good outfit if you can.
yes try it it works like magic. the flow togethor really well.
Those empty holes are where more passes of coil could be factory installed on an evaporator that's rated for more BTU.
LOL you guys were hillarious. Good stuffDr.Z. And of course Dr.D lol.
Thanks. David is a lot of fun to work with.
@DrZarkloff
1. how big was your tx valve
2. how big was your coil
3. how big was your compressor?
4. was the compressor mounted close by?
or was a remote condenser or rooftop unit?
very good vid. why were you putting a new unit in?
Dr.Z another job well done! bravo!
Great job Dr.z don't listen to these TH-cam negative guys that are all SUPER TECHS.
Glad you're back.
Im talking about soft soldering with a propane torch. Most manufactures use that method.
If this is an R134a evaporator, I'm all for using screwed fittings. A lot easier install. Pressures are not that great on such a system, and you don't have to worry about the high heat on the txv. Just my opinion.
@poland2010 If the system calls for 3/8 then that's what you have to use.
Looks like that joint needs more heat to me. Looks balled up on top of the joint instead of sucked into it.
@brianempson We kept purging the evaporator with nitrogen every few minutes or so.
You guys need to chill out when it comes to weild a valve, while it is important to cover it, theres no need to take 5 min to roll it up, one or two wet cloth and youre good to go. It is more important to do it quick then to struggle to do a good job because your heat sink is too close from where youre weilding. Also don't be scared to heat it up enough to do a good weilding i know they can get quite expencive and you dont want to scrap one but it is worst when you take too long to heat it up and to heat it again to make sure the sylfoss went all around then heating it up a bit more one time and do a quick job.
srry if you cant understand me very well, english isnt my main language.
@emsbas1 Soft solder should never be used on refrigeration circuits.
We blew it out big time with nitrogen before we installed it in the cooler. Then we used nitrogen while we brazed the evaporator onto the line set.
Nice video sr,thanks for share your knowledge's,please receive greetings from Mexico.
way too many errors for you to approve of this video. set your standards higher.
I STILL USE THE WET RAG FOR HEAT SINK BUT........I ALSO USE A SPRAY BOTTLE FULL OF WATER TO KEEP THE RAG WET AS I AM BRAZING.
Soft solder is definately a much better method for installing txv. It is stronger and uses less heat.
I'm impressed. Not everyone is a genius.
@DrZarkloff have u ever botherd of looking at the orifice .. tiny like a hair .. 1/4 is to big... but yet u decide to use 3/8 liquid... witch is twice as big as u need
was nitrogen used after he pulled the txv away from the valve? i hears a blast of air or something but i think it was the torch. oxidizing inside of the system will cause you many problems in the long term
The solder will follow the heat should have heated that bottom pipe a little more to get a good seal
just to call you out on the gas flow through the torch tip, that tip was set correctly. without sufficient gas flow, your tip will heat up really fast. aside from that, yeah, this wasn't done the best that it could have been done.
with my hvac gauges, robin air vacuum pump, and a cylinder of 404 .. no, i didn't use nitrogen as recommended, but ive never done that with any other ac system or ever seen anyone around here do it.
i use pure silver...not a fan of the flux but it keeps the heat down when doing valves and solenoids and such...
I prefer to flow nitro. it's good to be funny and enjoy your job.
@DrZarkloff
i'm talking about 3/8 liquid line..... why would you use that why not 1/4 or 5/16
ok well if the reversing valve is shifting to start a defrost and the fan doenst stop the board would be the culprit, but you already knew that. in our state of washington, it is hard to buy hvac parts unless a person works in the trade or has a contractors license. it used to be easier to get parts.
Dr Z, do you recommend adding a leak sealer from clip light to a 410a system? The leaks appears to be in the evaporator and it is very small. What other leak sealers do you recommend?
Big fan of your videos.but your buddy there needs tips on soldering.I smell ideas for your next video.
I know I probably sound over-dramatic, but I personally would wrap the TXV instead of tearing it apart because I think there is a risk of the parts being thrown out of adjustment when taking it apart. By the way, do you still work with Dave?
I was wondering what solder you are using, since I don't do a lot of brass to copper soldering-brazing I asked at the local supply house and they recommended a rod with a white powdery flux on it. What an abortion that joint turned out. I need to go out and buy another valve and start over. Sporlan R-410 valve 2 ton. Can you use Silphos?
How do you install the nozzle? I would like to know.
I seen some technicians using Nitrogen , did you use nitrogen at this Brazing video , when we need to use Nitrogen when Brazing ?
@DrZarkloff
mr jim wat size is the txv... how btu's is the coil? and how big is the compressor?
I noticed, when I crossed the force defrost pins on the board, it would not force a defrost. If it will not force defrost properly, does that mean the board could be bad?
I watched the stuck TXV force the system into defrost, and I noticed something kinda scary. The fan normally stops during defrost, but for some reason, the fan won't stop for defrost anymore. It's blowing cold air over the coils, and causing the defrost to go for a long time. Could a failed defrost board cause the fan to keep running in defrost mode, or could it be something else?
If we change txv new need adjustment or no
What about use soft soldering?
What really pisses me off is when I see areas on the side of an evaporator, where there are empty holes in the side where copper pipe should go through.
I had my 2 ton heat pump recharged, and had a leak fixed recently, and just as it was being charge, the TXV got stuck, so I had them over charge the system to lower the superheat until I could get the TXV replaced. I put the system into heat mode recently, and the suction line got very hot on heat mode, but the liquid line was room temperature. Could a stuck outdoor TXV cause a room-temperature liquid line in heat mode?
That sounds interesting. I've never heard of that before.
Yes, nitrogen was used in the process. I can't figure out why everyone thinks that he didn't use nitrogen when it's in the video.
Hiya Dr Z. Would it not be practical to connect up that TXV via flared connections instead? Lot less hassles replacing when they "die"...Just a thought :-)
+Charles O'Connor it is easier to replace yes, but txv's shouldnt go bad. a power head from time to time, but not the valve unless you are switching refrigerants. i did find one clogged with leak lock but that was the only instance.
Sorry if I sounded confusing, i'm trying to say that the condensing fan won't stop during defrost.
Can you do it with acetylene alone?
No Nitrogen!!
I just bought a TXV valve for my heat pump. It says to remove piston retainer. Where and what is the piston retainer? Thank you!
ryan the retainer its located at the condenser unit ,it looks like the txv valve too.
Can Mapp Gas work just as good but takes longer?
Are there diffrint kind of HVAC / HVAC - R Work. And if there are What are they if you know. And what knid Do you do. What company do you work for if you don't mind me asking
These gents already contaminated the TXV on the first braze with no nitrogen present. Then these 2 rookies spend an incredibly long time re-wrapping with the wet rag. And then still with no nitrogen as he ties in the TXV to the coil, overheating the TXV fitting in the process. BOOOO!
I saw what you saw. Terrible.
Gotta watch that moisture in those lines.
Always run nitrogen through when brazing. You will get flaking on the inside and you will never be able to blow it out after words. There will be some stuck in the txv. They will be back to change something in that system. txv would be my opinion. But thats not worth much.
@DrZarkloff so u still didnt answer me why the heck did u use 3/8 liquid
Converting your system to a TXV can make it run more efficient. It's a lot of work.
Rags makeif the man, good job guys !
I always thought some of them were pre- adjusted
What pressures you use
Yeah, you practically have to give the system a bath after using the stuff.
The customer paid for Jim to record this video. "what's the extra 300 dollars for on the quote?" "That's so my journeyman can record a video for TH-cam"
is there a reason why you installed 3/8 liquid?
Hey Dr. Z, what's an equalizing tube ?
Hello I have a question, what can you say about soft solder like stay brite 8, is that acceptable for txv's
Didn't clean the braze surfaces, no flux (regardless of using CuP alloy), too short a flame kernel, aiming the flame towards the heat sensitive component, quenching a fresh braze with water, and not 'chasing the braze all the way around to ensure a fluid joint was made. Personal pref, CuP for interfaces and at least 15% Ag for Cu/Cu or Cu/Cu alloy.
I am a self professed AMATEUR at brazing...That last joint was garbage. Not enough heat, that solder is barely hanging in the lip. I have made a couple ugly joints, and after I take a look with a mirror and light, I immediately go back and re-sweat the joint (brazing, oxy-acet, with nitro), I refuse to do ugly and call it a day.
Get that swage red then the silphos will FLOW into the heat and make a gorgeous joint.
Another great video...