Thank you so much for posting these videos! I'm starting at my first HVAC maintenance job this week. This was a great refresher after getting out of college.
This is a good example of what to expect of your unqualified brother-in-law. Let the joints cool, don't throw rags on the joint early. The copper is all annealed. There is enough copper oxides to clog the metering device. This is where a professional determines the life of the equipment right here.
You don't have experience with Solder grade HVAC materials. There are no Copper Oxides since the temp is below 600 degrees when soldering. "Let the joint cool" is for brazing not Solder. With Solder the joint is stronger if it is quenched. There is no need for nitrogen or to remove the Schrader valves since the temps are so low. (I remove the schaders). The whole point of the video is that this is a different technique that works fast with arguably the same results when done right.
He is brazing not soldering I promise you. Nitrogen should be flowed to prevent copper oxides and you want to let the joint naturally cool. He’s using silfoss rods most likely 15 percent silver. It melts at like 1100 degrees that’s brazing not soldering
They teach you to douse the joint in tech these days. Apparently cooling it quickly anneals the copper making it a softer b longer lasting joint. I prefer to let it cool naturally but he's doing it correctly here for the most part. Lack of Nitrogen is the is the real enemy here.
I see fouled up txv in the future for this system. All that black peeling off of outside of pipe does the same thing on the inside. That is why nitrogen purge is mandatory on all brazing jobs. If you have worked in the industry very long, you might notice that the really old systems that are still in operation usually have mechanical connections i.e. mobile home units. They had precharged linesets so they didn't have to braze or pull vacuum. Always purge and vacuum using micron gauge to get below 500 or better. Just my opinion.
Great video, .. i would like to see a video demonstrating how to use nitrogen while brazing in line sets to a new pre-charged condensor coil. Now i would like to know just how this can be accomplished because doesn't the nitrogen need an inlet and an outlet to keep the flow of nitrogen constant.
+Ron Walker Why flow the nitrogen at all? If the system is purged with nitrogen it will remain in the piping long enough to do your brazing. Where is it going to go? I just purge and then loosen the fitting on the hose at the nitrogen tank to relieve all pressure and then get my brazing done. Oxidation has never been an issue using this method.
+UtwoBed if you don't purge with nitrogen you can easily have copper oxide created in the lines which will contaminate your system. in turn plug up your drier and expansion valve.
Hi Ron thanks for sharing :) The green color comes from your brazing rod, it contains some flux that contains fluorine it helps the soldering to catch between different materials (brass/copper) for example
Chris Marescalco mapp torch will never get hot enough. oxy/Acetylene works faster but you can just use just acetylene to heat it up, just take slightly more time.. but it’s doable with just acetylene
@@johnperez4381 Ok thank you! I have an oxy/ acet set up. Gonna attempt to add ac to my current furnace. After I make sure I'm ordering the right equipment.
steven white Yes, however this is part of our online HVAC Technician Course. We cover the nitrogen purge in a different module of instruction. It is too hard to cover everything about brazing in one complete video. All of our videos are not available for public viewing. But... great observation.
steven white Part of our HVAC Technician Class. We have other videos showing the brazing process and how it create carbon during the process. All of our videos are not public on TH-cam. But thanks for the heads up.
good video! one question: some guys recommend "cool gel" to me, they said this jello-like stuff can replace wet rag to protect some fragile parts while brazing. How do you think this?
XIAO JIE we use it sometimes its really is an amazing product but we usually put a.wet rag right on the valves anyways and spray the gel.close to the joint the rag almost never gets hot
Adam Mehra typical acet is 5-7. Oxy i usually have around 15. Just remember to connect a purge/brazing tool to the gauges pipes to get nitrogen flowing through the lines. Have all lines ready to braze. Do not connect one side and then braze. Too much air gets in and the vacuum will take forever. The rags are an ancient technique...get thermogel. Take the schrader valves out and on newer systems...take the plastic o-ring out of the assembly before brazing to the high pressure/3/8s side. It will melt and cause a leak.
Would it create a strong join, joining a piece of brass to a piece of non-stainless steel? Would that be also called "brazing" ? Would the special filler brass be required, or can the brass piece itself be brazed directly onto the steel? This would be a relatively small piece of brass (1/4 inch thick, 1/4 inch wide and 1 inch long), and joined lengthwise to a long and thin steel rod (1/4 thick, 1/4 inch wide, 2 feet long). Perhaps the brazing material itself can be used as the brass piece? The 1 inch brass piece does not need to be a hard metal; it can be quite soft, it's fine if it is easily scratched, but it should be flexible and not brittle.
it's nitrogen 100% necessary? I'm trying to save some money (very important) and I only have to braze in one coupler on each line...one on the high side and one on the low side just to reconnect the unit to the lineset. I do have gauges but i don't have access to nitrogen...please advise if I'll be ok to make 2 simple joints or not. THANKS!
Yes you need nitrogen. It keeps the suit out of pipes. Nitrogen should also be used to pressure test the system. Anyone that says you do not should not be making or commenting on how to videos. Read a new training book....systems last twice as long, if done properly.
i have 3 questions: 1- what are the differences between different filling metal with different silver ration, 2- do you use flux and what kind? 3- can you use yellow map gas instead of acetylene? thank you
I have been doing that for the last 10 years, don't listen to a lot of smart ass talks, what works for you, that's what you should do, as long as you do the basic procedures right, like wet rag, valve removal, clean copper, etc.
Brazing a 3/8" line the same technique is used. Just make sure your torch is turned down a bit and it is very important to keep the tip of the torch moving. Otherwise, it will burn a hole in the copper. If you I can help you in any way please feel free to contact me. Ron
Using a wet rag is a bad idea any more, use the heat paste! Why would you risk adding excess moisture to a closed system, you might be able to get it all back out with your vacuum, but at what time cost?
So u don't need flux for brazing??? Plumber here never brazed or welded I am assuming this is much higher temp...this seems more complicated that plumbing, are u guys making good money?
Yes it can. They use copper to make green fireworks. So if u heat ur copper pipe hot enough you would have that green color as a result. I have seen it on jobs with mapp gas mostly when using double torch
I just want to say that using a wet rag will cost vaporization and the heat from the copper pipe will actually suck in the vapors due to the Heat contaminating the freon when applied a actual heat thermal paste it's the best thing believe me I'm guilty of the wet rag myself I even open up the top valve and fill in the valve with water that also helps keep the valve cool but thermal paste is highly recommended been watching a few videos on it and the top professionals advise
Ron, you're using old technology. I cringe when I see guys brazing next to valves and filter dryers! See The Harris Products Group document entitled, Stay Brite #8 Tin/Silver Solder. It has a shear strength of 10,600 psi, which is far above Stay Silv products that require heating the copper up until it is red hot, effectively annealing the copper and thus weakening it. Stay-Brite #8 melts at 535 F, whereas, the melting point of Stay Silv 15 is north of 1450 F. Here's another important point: Type M copper, the tubing we use in HVAC, has a burst pressure of 3,800 psi. In actual comparison tests, soldering with Stay-Brite #8 had no affect whatsoever on the 3,800 psi burst pressure of the copper tubing it was used on, whereas Stay Silv 15 caused the tubing to burst at 1,800 psi. In addition, there is heavy oxidation formation inside the copper tubing when using Stay Silv 15, unless nitrogen is flowing through the tubing during the brazing process. There is zero oxidation when using Stay-Brite #8. Let's inform our new techs that there is an alternative to this old, potentially damaging brazing procedure.
The "old technology" was fine for the last 100 years, think I'll stick with it. You do what you want. In 35 years I've never been close to 1,800 PSI in a refrigeration circuit. If I had, I would have run. I would not sit there and say, "Good thing I used Stay Brite #8 Tin/Silver Solder with a shear strength of 10,600 PSI and has a melting temperature of 535degs"!!......
+mundrubjet Would you use the "old technique" of simply purging an opened system with refrigerant to remove noncondensables, or new technology of a triple evacuation to 500 micons with modern 2 stage vacuum pumps? When I first got into the trade, I was taught to braze everything. Now I use Stay Brite 8 on all joints ( except those that were previously brazed by others). I've used Stay Brite 8 successfully on 410A systems.
this made me laugh. i pictured it in my mind, some guy near a condenser that's about to explode but feels safe in the knowledge that stay brite 8 can handle the pressure. thank you. FWIW, i gave up brazing and switched to stay brite myself. it's a time saver for me. to each his own.
HVAC uses annealed tubing ie ACR grade not M grade that is thinner and used for a drain in plumbing. ACR tubing has the wall thickness like not thinner L. You can just solder an HVAC joint, many have done this for decades so no Nitrogen is required. It will not pass muster with many commercial requirements, nor will epoxy or Elmers glue. Both brazing and solder are centuries old. Brazing is usually stronger and more robust. Before one tries solder instead you might explore the legal aspect if you are in bad stance ie lying to ones employer or ones contract. Soldering can be outlawed on contracts when one is say installing an HVAC system in a school, hospital, military building. ie the boiler plate stuff can forbid this crummy practice, even if some solder companies paper says it is OK. ******Thus is there an inspector, boss or set of rules to pass on the HVAC system you install or repair? Yes folks use brazing and use Stay Brite too, some even use crummy plumbers acid based solder and roll the dice too. The topic rich with opinions and twists. The shear strength of a brazed joint is typically 5 times higher than a soldered joint After Katrina HVAC guys arrived and swapped out condenser units, got 3000 bucks per ton, soldered the joints and left town. When units sprung leaks a few years later they where probably milking the Sandy folks. In college in Air Conditioning in ME I learned that solder ie non brazing had no place in refrigeration work. Then later in Calif the Apartment maintance guy at my apartment was always soldering all the HCAC joints in the 400 units.
Take the schrader valves out....plus you need to start taping the end of the pipes if they havent been connected. The vacuum will take forever to achieve the right microns to finally crack the valves and test and adjust the system
Good video except... you see a lot of oxidation and if he didn't use nitrogen gas inside the pipe during brazing, then he oxidized the pipe inside too and it will ruin the compressor in about a year or so
I keep hearing about this nitrogen and the effect of not using it, honestly i have been installing ac units for the last 10 years, somewhere around 100 units per year, never used nitrogen when brazing, now i don't hear from all my jobs obviously, but i am yet to have one call back or issue resulting from this, i am starting to think these are just formalities to make things complicated, the low side goes through compressor oil and the high side goes through the filter, i doubt any of these said oxidized copper reaches to the metering device, What do you think?
This should not be a training video. To many mistakes starting at the simplest from Schrader valve core removal to no shielding gas. Left off filtration. Most of all pour use of torch and application of filler rod.
You are using improper brazing techniques. For one thing, you are using the wrong size tip, and it is adjusted wrong, Just listen to it screaming like a jet engine.That sharp flame is not a neutral flame. It’s ajusted like you would use for a cutting torch.You don’t keep the torch moving, it is way to close to the work, and don’t get the fitting hot enough to melt the rod on its own. You state to not let the torch melt the rod, but that is what you are doing. You spend way to much time on a fitting because you are trying to over drive too small of a tip. Try a small rose bud, and move your flame back away so you are using the hottest part of the flame. The only right thing you did was wrap the valve with a wet rag. You should not be giving brazing advice.
all the nitrogen is all bullshit is unnecessary we do bad asses zoning systems train and carrier we dont do that nitrogen shit never have a problem with the compressor or valve
This guy has the basics down, but just by the technique and the process he is making up the connections he does not have much experience with a torch. He is getting too close to the copper with the torch, and not moving it as much as needed. If the oxygen is backed off just a little the flame will have a white wider tip which will lessen the chance of melting a hole in the copper as a fine sharp pointed flame would.
Seriously, gawd-awful technique. Work on your shouldering skills. Here's a tip, bend a 90 in your rod to work around the bottom of the joint, also pull the torch a few inches back once the braze is flowing.
Jesus Christ, you need some training. We could go on and on about the steps your not taking. Go take some classes please, in all serious. There's so much carbon build up inside those pipes, that ac will not last as long as it potentially can.
I don't like using couplers when you can put a swage on and only have 1 joint. Fewer joints equals fewer places for a leak.
Except swaging has its own set of issues. My guess is that most techs are better at brazing than they are at swaging.
You should remove the cores on the access valves.. Wet rags is a good idea but take only a min to remove the cores..
REMOVING OF SHRADER CORE IS A MUST
clearly it's not since techs haven't been doing it for 30+ years
Absolutely! Idiotic not to remove Schrader Valves.
Absolutely, if not the rubber on the valve could melt prematurely from the high heat.
Can you remove them if the condensers pre- charged?
I did not see any nitrogen flowing and the Schrader Schradercores were not removed. OUCH.
Thank you so much for posting these videos! I'm starting at my first HVAC maintenance job this week. This was a great refresher after getting out of college.
This is a good example of what to expect of your unqualified brother-in-law. Let the joints cool, don't throw rags on the joint early. The copper is all annealed. There is enough copper oxides to clog the metering device. This is where a professional determines the life of the equipment right here.
You don't have experience with Solder grade HVAC materials. There are no Copper Oxides since the temp is below 600 degrees when soldering. "Let the joint cool" is for brazing not Solder. With Solder the joint is stronger if it is quenched. There is no need for nitrogen or to remove the Schrader valves since the temps are so low. (I remove the schaders). The whole point of the video is that this is a different technique that works fast with arguably the same results when done right.
He is brazing not soldering I promise you. Nitrogen should be flowed to prevent copper oxides and you want to let the joint naturally cool. He’s using silfoss rods most likely 15 percent silver. It melts at like 1100 degrees that’s brazing not soldering
They teach you to douse the joint in tech these days. Apparently cooling it quickly anneals the copper making it a softer b longer lasting joint. I prefer to let it cool naturally but he's doing it correctly here for the most part. Lack of Nitrogen is the is the real enemy here.
you can also heat trap absorption paste.
I see fouled up txv in the future for this system. All that black peeling off of outside of pipe does the same thing on the inside. That is why nitrogen purge is mandatory on all brazing jobs. If you have worked in the industry very long, you might notice that the really old systems that are still in operation usually have mechanical connections i.e. mobile home units. They had precharged linesets so they didn't have to braze or pull vacuum. Always purge and vacuum using micron gauge to get below 500 or better. Just my opinion.
You make it look so easy, I hated brazing in the beginning. Good video.
Great video, .. i would like to see a video demonstrating how to use nitrogen while brazing in line sets to a new pre-charged condensor coil. Now i would like to know just how this can be accomplished because doesn't the nitrogen need an inlet and an outlet to keep the flow of nitrogen constant.
RAGENBUQUE Yes, you have to take the schraeder valves out of the service ports. Nitrogen at about 1-2 psi.
You should have nitrogen at very low PSI flowing through the lines. This video is to demonstrate brazing and ragging techniques.
+Ron Walker Why flow the nitrogen at all? If the system is purged with nitrogen it will remain in the piping long enough to do your brazing. Where is it going to go? I just purge and then loosen the fitting on the hose at the nitrogen tank to relieve all pressure and then get my brazing done. Oxidation has never been an issue using this method.
+UtwoBed if you don't purge with nitrogen you can easily have copper oxide created in the lines which will contaminate your system. in turn plug up your drier and expansion valve.
Agreed. He should also take a minute to clean his tip
Hi Ron thanks for sharing :)
The green color comes from your brazing rod, it contains some flux that contains fluorine
it helps the soldering to catch between different materials
(brass/copper) for example
If using 15 sil flux core, can you still put flux paste to help it
Heat transfer experts . Braze refrig copper tube all day. takes 30 seconds for a joint at most. Use some heat and throw some rod at it.
For 7/8 lines going into the Service ports (different metal), any tips?....
I use a little bit of Stay-Silv flux so the solder will easily flow to the bottom of the joint.
So you use 15 sil flux core rods plus put flux paste, which one...can you send me a link
I do not have enough time to explain everything thats wrong here. Find another video on brazing.
Yet you had enough time to talk shit....
你教得真的很棒，我們台灣 我們在考乙級技術士的時候也要用濕布防止銅管過熱
I up and ran a drywall screw in my buddies compressor line last weekend. I done messed up lol
Does the TurboTorch MAP gas flame also turn green when ready?
Arent you supposed to put the braze rod on 180 from the flame?
Sand your connections,clean after sanding , don't use couplings swedge them to size,Keep your torch moving.
Can you use alcohol to clean
Bro you may want to use a neutralized flame. This is too harsh on the metal and can cut thought the copper. Also run nitrogen while brazing.
Will a map gas torch get the job done or does it have to be oxy/ acet?
Chris Marescalco mapp torch will never get hot enough. oxy/Acetylene works faster but you can just use just acetylene to heat it up, just take slightly more time.. but it’s doable with just acetylene
@@johnperez4381 Ok thank you! I have an oxy/ acet set up. Gonna attempt to add ac to my current furnace. After I make sure I'm ordering the right equipment.
Can you use flux paste , even if your using flux core 15 sil? (Just for the Service ports to help it)
You could take out your shrader valve right?
Just wondering why you werent using a nitrogen purge as you brazed
Yes you are.
Using oxy that type of flame no nitrogen what grade of silver solder ?????
The cheapest rod possible.
i don't see nitrogen hook up before brazing.
steven white Yes, however this is part of our online HVAC Technician Course. We cover the nitrogen purge in a different module of instruction. It is too hard to cover everything about brazing in one complete video. All of our videos are not available for public viewing.
But... great observation.
What size of brazing tip do you use?
Ron Walker good instructions
steven white Part of our HVAC Technician Class. We have other videos showing the brazing process and how it create carbon during the process. All of our videos are not public on TH-cam. But thanks for the heads up.
You don't need to use nitrogen when brazing lmao
I'm confused on Flux. Do you need it or does the brazing material already have it in it?
good video!
one question: some guys recommend "cool gel" to me, they said this jello-like stuff can replace wet rag to protect some fragile parts while brazing. How do you think this?
XIAO JIE we use it sometimes its really is an amazing product but we usually put a.wet rag right on the valves anyways and spray the gel.close to the joint the rag almost never gets hot
The green flame is coming when you burn freon residue. Please correct me if I am wrong , thanks Ron
Pete Singh It's the copper oxides burning. Same thing happens if you throw some copper wire or pipe in a bonfire.
You are wrong.
@@seanstinebuck4890 explain
What do set your gauges at for the oxygen and the acetylene?
Adam Mehra typical acet is 5-7. Oxy i usually have around 15. Just remember to connect a purge/brazing tool to the gauges pipes to get nitrogen flowing through the lines. Have all lines ready to braze. Do not connect one side and then braze. Too much air gets in and the vacuum will take forever.
The rags are an ancient technique...get thermogel. Take the schrader valves out and on newer systems...take the plastic o-ring out of the assembly before brazing to the high pressure/3/8s side. It will melt and cause a leak.
Did you flow nitrogen while brazing
Would it create a strong join, joining a piece of brass to a piece of non-stainless steel? Would that be also called "brazing" ? Would the special filler brass be required, or can the brass piece itself be brazed directly onto the steel? This would be a relatively small piece of brass (1/4 inch thick, 1/4 inch wide and 1 inch long), and joined lengthwise to a long and thin steel rod (1/4 thick, 1/4 inch wide, 2 feet long). Perhaps the brazing material itself can be used as the brass piece? The 1 inch brass piece does not need to be a hard metal; it can be quite soft, it's fine if it is easily scratched, but it should be flexible and not brittle.
it's nitrogen 100% necessary? I'm trying to save some money (very important) and I only have to braze in one coupler on each line...one on the high side and one on the low side just to reconnect the unit to the lineset. I do have gauges but i don't have access to nitrogen...please advise if I'll be ok to make 2 simple joints or not. THANKS!
No you don't need to use nitrogen.
Yes you need nitrogen. It keeps the suit out of pipes. Nitrogen should also be used to pressure test the system. Anyone that says you do not should not be making or commenting on how to videos. Read a new training book....systems last twice as long, if done properly.
i have 3 questions: 1- what are the differences between different filling metal with different silver ration, 2- do you use flux and what kind? 3- can you use yellow map gas instead of acetylene? thank you
Gotta take out the shrader pin out
What is thought of using only an acetylene tank with a turbo torch? As long as you have enough heat quick enough, do you need a 5000 degree flame?
Ken Marriott this is terrible
I have been doing that for the last 10 years, don't listen to a lot of smart ass talks, what works for you, that's what you should do, as long as you do the basic procedures right, like wet rag, valve removal, clean copper, etc.
How about using some clean rags?
What was a the Oxygen and Acetylene ratio
Can you make a video on brazing the 3/8 line?
Brazing a 3/8" line the same technique is used. Just make sure your torch is turned down a bit and it is very important to keep the tip of the torch moving. Otherwise, it will burn a hole in the copper.
If you I can help you in any way please feel free to contact me.
Ron
Using a wet rag is a bad idea any more, use the heat paste! Why would you risk adding excess moisture to a closed system, you might be able to get it all back out with your vacuum, but at what time cost?
Nice Nitrogen purge during the braze!
Did you use a NITROGEN FLOW??????????????????
So u don't need flux for brazing??? Plumber here never brazed or welded I am assuming this is much higher temp...this seems more complicated that plumbing, are u guys making good money?
U dont need flux for brazing, higher temperatures, very different than soldering
are you using Flux and is that what is turning the flame green
+Juan Ramos You don't use flux when brazing...It's very high temps 1200° +
que soldadura utilizo
please can u give the website name cuz we want to buy the rods and theres no rods in my country
Silfos
what kind of gas are you using? i know to use aceltaline but it looks like you're using two different gases because of the two hoses. Thanks!!
Josh Weaver oxygen
Will MAPP gas cause the flame to turn green?
Yes it can. They use copper to make green fireworks. So if u heat ur copper pipe hot enough you would have that green color as a result. I have seen it on jobs with mapp gas mostly when using double torch
Is annealing the copper from brazing an issue?
+NY Mogul The copper is already annealed when you buy it...Soft copper tubing...No issues
Thanks for the information.
Great job on flowing nitrogen.
What size rod you braze with
+Devanand Gajadhar It's a 80% copper 15% silver and 5% phosphorus
Devanand Gajadhar I hi
Where is your nitro!
I just want to say that using a wet rag will cost vaporization and the heat from the copper pipe will actually suck in the vapors due to the Heat contaminating the freon when applied a actual heat thermal paste it's the best thing believe me I'm guilty of the wet rag myself I even open up the top valve and fill in the valve with water that also helps keep the valve cool but thermal paste is highly recommended been watching a few videos on it and the top professionals advise
Remove the core valvels and cap let pressure out
Ron, you're using old technology. I cringe when I see guys brazing next to valves and filter dryers! See The Harris Products Group document entitled, Stay Brite #8 Tin/Silver Solder. It has a shear strength of 10,600 psi, which is far above Stay Silv products that require heating the copper up until it is red hot, effectively annealing the copper and thus weakening it. Stay-Brite #8 melts at 535 F, whereas, the melting point of Stay Silv 15 is north of 1450 F. Here's another important point: Type M copper, the tubing we use in HVAC, has a burst pressure of 3,800 psi. In actual comparison tests, soldering with Stay-Brite #8 had no affect whatsoever on the 3,800 psi burst pressure of the copper tubing it was used on, whereas Stay Silv 15 caused the tubing to burst at 1,800 psi. In addition, there is heavy oxidation formation inside the copper tubing when using Stay Silv 15, unless nitrogen is flowing through the tubing during the brazing process. There is zero oxidation when using Stay-Brite #8. Let's inform our new techs that there is an alternative to this old, potentially damaging brazing procedure.
What type of gas combo are you using here? Air/Propane or MAP?
The "old technology" was fine for the last 100 years, think I'll stick with it. You do what you want. In 35 years I've never been close to 1,800 PSI in a refrigeration circuit. If I had, I would have run. I would not sit there and say, "Good thing I used Stay Brite #8 Tin/Silver Solder with a shear strength of 10,600 PSI and has a melting temperature of 535degs"!!......
+mundrubjet Would you use the "old technique" of simply purging an opened system with refrigerant to remove noncondensables, or new technology of a triple evacuation to 500 micons with modern 2 stage vacuum pumps? When I first got into the trade, I was taught to braze everything. Now I use Stay Brite 8 on all joints ( except those that were previously brazed by others). I've used Stay Brite 8 successfully on 410A systems.
this made me laugh. i pictured it in my mind, some guy near a condenser that's about to explode but feels safe in the knowledge that stay brite 8 can handle the pressure. thank you. FWIW, i gave up brazing and switched to stay brite myself. it's a time saver for me. to each his own.
HVAC uses annealed tubing ie ACR grade not M grade that is thinner and used for a drain in plumbing. ACR tubing has the wall thickness like not thinner L.
You can just solder an HVAC joint, many have done this for decades so no Nitrogen is required. It will not pass muster with many commercial requirements, nor will epoxy or Elmers glue.
Both brazing and solder are centuries old. Brazing is usually stronger and more robust.
Before one tries solder instead you might explore the legal aspect if you are in bad stance ie lying to ones employer or ones contract. Soldering can be outlawed on contracts when one is say installing an HVAC system in a school, hospital, military building. ie the boiler plate stuff can forbid this crummy practice, even if some solder companies paper says it is OK.
******Thus is there an inspector, boss or set of rules to pass on the HVAC system you install or repair?
Yes folks use brazing and use Stay Brite too, some even use crummy plumbers acid based solder and roll the dice too.
The topic rich with opinions and twists.
The shear strength of a brazed joint is typically 5 times higher than a soldered joint
After Katrina HVAC guys arrived and swapped out condenser units, got 3000 bucks per ton, soldered the joints and left town. When units sprung leaks a few years later they where probably milking the Sandy folks.
In college in Air Conditioning in ME I learned that solder ie non brazing had no place in refrigeration work. Then later in Calif the Apartment maintance guy at my apartment was always soldering all the HCAC joints in the 400 units.
Take the schrader valves out....plus you need to start taping the end of the pipes if they havent been connected. The vacuum will take forever to achieve the right microns to finally crack the valves and test and adjust the system
by quenching the joint immediately, you crack the braze
Good, but please solder with excess acetylene, flame set much too hard.
Great video
Aren’t you suppose to start your brazing farthest away from the system and work your way back
I remember my first time brazing.... WAY too long on that joint!
the flame turns green when it burns refrigerant
No, the green flame comes from you burning solder, not refrigerant
What refrigerant?
Where is the nitrogen? God, think of all the oxidation on the inside.
Why did I not see you purging nitrogen while burning that pipe and why is there not a shoulder on those joints? Yours truly former apprentice.
Good video except... you see a lot of oxidation and if he didn't use nitrogen gas inside the pipe during brazing, then he oxidized the pipe inside too and it will ruin the compressor in about a year or so
I keep hearing about this nitrogen and the effect of not using it, honestly i have been installing ac units for the last 10 years, somewhere around 100 units per year, never used nitrogen when brazing, now i don't hear from all my jobs obviously, but i am yet to have one call back or issue resulting from this, i am starting to think these are just formalities to make things complicated, the low side goes through compressor oil and the high side goes through the filter, i doubt any of these said oxidized copper reaches to the metering device,
What do you think?
Thanku Ron 😊
Nice job
why are the shraders not out.
Schraeders are out. Caps on to keep the water from the rags out. Thanks
good answer
Why is he not using nitrogen?
nise job 👍👍
Never of heat block huh.?
use atay brihgt #8 harris
A green flame is unnecessary n you absolutely did not need to heat the pipe up that much before brazing.
Well fellas, I thing he's just demonstrating the brazing part. . . . . . All the rest we should already know
I would've removed the valve core and cap
good video thanks
Very informative!
شكرا
how not to braze
first time i did this i made a bigass hole on the line set
high temp flame
your flame looks like its too oxygen rich
Nice!
This should not be a training video. To many mistakes starting at the simplest from Schrader valve core removal to no shielding gas. Left off filtration. Most of all pour use of torch and application of filler rod.
ROOKIE!!!!
You are the pro!
Hey do you want to come teach at the school?
@@RonWalkerHVACTrainingSolutions Hopefully he will use nitrogen and remove the cores.
You are using improper brazing techniques. For one thing, you are using the wrong size tip, and it is adjusted wrong, Just listen to it screaming like a jet engine.That sharp flame is not a neutral flame. It’s ajusted like you would use for a cutting torch.You don’t keep the torch moving, it is way to close to the work, and don’t get the fitting hot enough to melt the rod on its own. You state to not let the torch melt the rod, but that is what you are doing. You spend way to much time on a fitting because you are trying to over drive too small of a tip. Try a small rose bud, and move your flame back away so you are using the hottest part of the flame. The only right thing you did was wrap the valve with a wet rag. You should not be giving brazing advice.
No nitro should of removed service caps and shraders. Who uses ox/acc on 3/4 pipe lol
Craig B you mean nitrogen while brazing?
yes
lol what a waste of money, could braze that faster and cleaner with a 12a tip. this guy needs to work on his shouldering skills
a real tech would call it 7/8", just sayin
im sure you are feeding nitrogen
all the nitrogen is all bullshit is unnecessary we do bad asses zoning systems train and carrier we dont do that nitrogen shit never have a problem with the compressor or valve
This guy has the basics down, but just by the technique and the process he is making up the connections he does not have much experience with a torch. He is getting too close to the copper with the torch, and not moving it as much as needed. If the oxygen is backed off just a little the flame will have a white wider tip which will lessen the chance of melting a hole in the copper as a fine sharp pointed flame would.
If you're not going to do it right, don't do it. All, this is what not to do. Boooo!
Seriously, gawd-awful technique. Work on your shouldering skills. Here's a tip, bend a 90 in your rod to work around the bottom of the joint, also pull the torch a few inches back once the braze is flowing.
This guy is what I call textbook smart, not real world application technician.....sloppy work, stick to your classroom videos
not a good demonstration at all
This video should be named " How not to do brazing "
Jesus Christ, you need some training. We could go on and on about the steps your not taking. Go take some classes please, in all serious. There's so much carbon build up inside those pipes, that ac will not last as long as it potentially can.