Great Video. When pushing the pistons in, instead of bleeding I just let the fluid push back into the master cylinder and remove a little if necessary. I can see doing it this way if you plan on doing a fluid flush.
I didnt bleed the line because it seemed pointless, but everything else was on point. Thanks so much, now we're back on the road thanks to your help :) we appreciate it
U got it..however it's not pointless..there are many reasons why it's a good idea to bleed..u could clog an abs solenoid or unseat a seal in the master by pushing the fluid back
At 12:23 you finished putting the [wire spring] clips in. Then at 12:24 when you put the caliper on, the spring clips disappeared. What's up with that? I found that the spring clips kept pushing the pads apart and they would fall out of place since the slides were greased up. So, I used a simple 'C' clamp to hold them together while I attached the caliper to the brake pad carrier.
clean the hub face of all rust before u put new rotors on. always replace new hardware ... no need to bleed breaks as you press in Caliper piston... It’s not recommended...All you need to do is open the brake reservoir then Compress the caliber.. Only bleed brakes when replacing the caliber or you feel Spongyness in the brakes
Though i have an aversion to anything clown, especially those that flavor the conversation with sexual innuendo, thank you for the tutorial, excellent lighting and video quality on this repair.
@@flysubcompact just say thank you and keep it moving. Man did a good job and saved hundreds if not thousands of people hundreds if not thousands of dollars. Man can dress up in a ballerina outfit if he wants to. Jeez.
Good video. For those that were watching closely, :) you installed the separator springs on the pads, then when you went to put the caliper on, they weren't there anymore? :) I just had an issue with them rubbing on the rotor once the caliper was bolted in place. Not all manufacturers have those springs as part of the hardware kit. I wonder if they were ever OEM? The caliper must not be built to accept them underneath it. Was wondering if anyone else had luck using them?
Awesome video I have a mazda 6 touring 2011. Can you suggest a good brake pad for my car? My car is stock no racing upgrades or anything like that. Thank you
Which ever ones have the better warranty. Ceramic is supposedly more durable and last longer? But apparently due to how much harder they are than 'organics' they can eat into the rotors. 🤷♂️ pads can typically come with a lifetime warranty. Rotors at most come with a 3 year warranty. Do the math, right?
I’m working on a 2003 that does not have the screws holding the rotor on. I cannot get it to break free from the hub. I’ve sprayed it down with PB Blaster and it still won’t break free. I tried threading a bolt into the one hole to force it off but the bolt stopped without breaking the rotor free and the head broke off the bolt. Any suggestion?
I had my rotors replaced on 2009 Mazda 6 recently. I need to know if they were installed properly. Can I send you pictures of what I have taken. the angles are not good.
Old video so hopefully you reply, is bleeding necessary I've never done it on a disc/pad change, I always thought leaving the fuller cap open was enough to release any pressure, thanks on advance
Thank you for your response. Your video inspired me to do my 2007 Mazda CX-7 brake pads and rotors. At the moment I'm looking for the best deal on the front end rotors and pads. Thanks again...
Thanks for this. I was replacing some suspension parts and when I pulled the caliper, the M-Spring fell out and I had no idea where it went back. Service manual is useless for this part. Shows it, but doesn't show how it is used. Seems the other ones are completely missing from both front brakes, so literally only had the one that fell out, and couldn't reference it to the others. Guess I could have pulled the rear and looked, but doubt it is there either. Nice job!
Just did, don't know why i didn't at the time, but i was working on the car! Replaced hub, bearing, pads, rotors, upper control arm, and tie rod end. Now my ABS light is on (wasn't before) i bled the fronts, but not backs, could that be why? Probably not the ideal thing, but had to hit road-daugter had a doctor appointment. @klowny1969
the reason I am asking is because I have to pull the rotor off to access the CV joint I have to take the CV joints to take out the transmission do you have any videos where how to on that I know more or less
yup no need to open the bleeder when doing this.. just open the master cylinder reserve. i just did this same car but mine is a 2013 2 nd gen body style is the best. and yes these are ford crap breaks
you dont have to open up the bleeder valve to replace brake and rotors you just compromised your brake system unnecessarily just open the brake fluid reservoir use a large c clamp or caliper compressor and (slowly) compress the piston in to avoid damage to your abs system!!
Bleeding is pointless in this rotor change as You did not take the caliper a part.. The air couldn't go in the brake system just with changing discs and pads.. So You waste bit of time for that bleed off.. All the rest quite all right.
Bleeding the brakes when pushing the piston in when changing pads is necessary for two reasons..1) the dirtiest fluid in the whole braking system is in the caliper, when pushed in reverse this dirty fluid can clog an ABS solenoid 2) the master cylinder piston is not designed for fluid to go in reverse, this can cause the master not to work properly because the piston seal wont be seated
in addition to Klowny's perfect advise: Brake fluid generates a tremendous amount of heat. This heat is transferred to the fluid closets to the piston which pushes the pads against the rotors. Brake fluid is hydroscopic (affinity for water) even thought the system is completely sealed through the heat cycles moisture finds it's way in (condensation and particles from materials used in the braking system, etc.) causing "soft" pedal feel, pulsation under heavy braking and INTERNAL corrosion of the braking system components. TAKE THE TIME TO BLEED THE BRAKE LINES PLEASE. A full system exchange is the best course if you have the proper equipment but a partial, as seen here and practiced by most mechanics is generally perfectly suitable for "spent" fluid replacement. You push out the bad and then replace it at the "top" of the system.
I have never seen anyone bleed the brakes when doing a simple brake pad and rotor change? You can just compress the caliper and the fluid will push back to the master cylinder. Much less room for error that way
It’s so refreshing when a DIY video is clean and precise. Thank you.
Thanks for watching and commenting .dont forget to subscribe :)
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Because of this video, I was able to easily repair the rear brakes on a 2011 cx-7.
awesome..thanks for watching and commenting
Great Video. When pushing the pistons in, instead of bleeding I just let the fluid push back into the master cylinder and remove a little if necessary. I can see doing it this way if you plan on doing a fluid flush.
I didnt bleed the line because it seemed pointless, but everything else was on point. Thanks so much, now we're back on the road thanks to your help :) we appreciate it
U got it..however it's not pointless..there are many reasons why it's a good idea to bleed..u could clog an abs solenoid or unseat a seal in the master by pushing the fluid back
Thanks! Worked well for us. Had to drill out the bolts in our particular rotors today but that just made it more fun for my son.
+Jared - Christina Hansen awesome..thanks for watching
At 12:23 you finished putting the [wire spring] clips in. Then at 12:24 when you put the caliper on, the spring clips disappeared. What's up with that? I found that the spring clips kept pushing the pads apart and they would fall out of place since the slides were greased up. So, I used a simple 'C' clamp to hold them together while I attached the caliper to the brake pad carrier.
LUBE. Lol Great video guy. Nice projection in your voice too. Really good video. Thanks! You make the job look super easy.
Thank u
Great video, you have saved my family and I a lot of money. Thanks!
Lied To By: NISSAN OF ATHENS 5-9-2016 awesome
clean the hub face of all rust before u put new rotors on. always replace new hardware ... no need to bleed breaks as you press in Caliper piston... It’s not recommended...All you need to do is open the brake reservoir then Compress the caliber.. Only bleed brakes when replacing the caliber or you feel Spongyness in the brakes
Do you need those metal clips for over the breaks? What are they for?
Though i have an aversion to anything clown, especially those that flavor the conversation with sexual innuendo, thank you for the tutorial, excellent lighting and video quality on this repair.
Thank you..don't forget to subscribe
@@klowny1969 Lose the John Wayne Gacy act and i will.
@@flysubcompact just say thank you and keep it moving. Man did a good job and saved hundreds if not thousands of people hundreds if not thousands of dollars. Man can dress up in a ballerina outfit if he wants to. Jeez.
@@skrewdreyever For real this original comment dude is a pride and a buzz kill
Good video. For those that were watching closely, :) you installed the separator springs on the pads, then when you went to put the caliper on, they weren't there anymore? :) I just had an issue with them rubbing on the rotor once the caliper was bolted in place. Not all manufacturers have those springs as part of the hardware kit. I wonder if they were ever OEM? The caliper must not be built to accept them underneath it. Was wondering if anyone else had luck using them?
Well done, you've put together an excellent "how to do" video.
Thanks for watching
Awesome video I have a mazda 6 touring 2011. Can you suggest a good brake pad for my car? My car is stock no racing upgrades or anything like that. Thank you
Thanks! U can go to rockauto.com and get their better pads, you can get ceramic pads..thanks and don't forget to subscribe
@@klowny1969 THank you
Which ever ones have the better warranty. Ceramic is supposedly more durable and last longer? But apparently due to how much harder they are than 'organics' they can eat into the rotors. 🤷♂️ pads can typically come with a lifetime warranty. Rotors at most come with a 3 year warranty. Do the math, right?
Why did you take those clips off of the top of the pads when you put the caliper on????
I love this guy.
"spray some butter sauce right here"👏😂😂😂
Joe beezy dats right baby
klowny1969 haha I'll be for sure watching more Vida keep it up
Joe beezy lol thanks
I’m working on a 2003 that does not have the screws holding the rotor on. I cannot get it to break free from the hub. I’ve sprayed it down with PB Blaster and it still won’t break free. I tried threading a bolt into the one hole to force it off but the bolt stopped without breaking the rotor free and the head broke off the bolt. Any suggestion?
Awesome video! My brother and I will be doing this tomorrow!
thnx for watching
Are there any torque specs on the bolts?
I had my rotors replaced on 2009 Mazda 6 recently. I need to know if they were installed properly. Can I send you pictures of what I have taken. the angles are not good.
I got mazda 6 model 2009, Just want to ask where I can order the brake pads front and rear , thanks
rockauto.com...dont forget to subscribe
What size screw is that you took out from the rotor? Is it 8M?
I'm just doing the break pads on mine, and I've found there are no screws in the rotor... cause for concern?
No need for them..don't forget to subscribe
@@klowny1969 thank you, and will do. My ADHD ass was only able to sit through tour video because it was funny AND to the point.
Don't forget to clean the hub before you install the rotor👍
is the brake pad and rotor replacement same as for 2015 mazda 3 model?
Well done very professional
I've been having problems with those stupid springs. And you didn't even have them in!! Check @ 12:24
putting your calipers on, i notice you did not have the clips on pads like you showed earlier.
The brake nipples r rounded according to my mechanic, how shuld i fix this and bleed brakes properlu
He should have been easily able to remove them and replace them..don't forget to subscribe
Hi - can I ask, is this the same for the previous 2002 - 2007 version of the Mazda 6 2.0 ts? Many thanks
Probably is..if not there are minor variations
Old video so hopefully you reply, is bleeding necessary I've never done it on a disc/pad change, I always thought leaving the fuller cap open was enough to release any pressure, thanks on advance
The text book way, u should bleed whenever u push the pads in.
Do you have video of rear pad replacement for the same car?
yes i do
Thanks. I found it.
Kool
what is the thread sealant used? Regular pipe sealant would work?
its not a thread sealant..i used caliper grease..found in ur auto parts store
What you used on bolt threads?
+juliusvalentinas the blue stuff is a thread locker so the bolts wont loosen
Great video. Thanks so much man.
Thanks for watching
2013 have the same breaks and body style... i own a 2013 6
similar for a 2008 miata?
Well Done My Friend. I have a Mazda CX-7 and I want to this. Where did you get those power tools? Can you respond with the brand and price? Thanks!!!
Hey all my air tools are ingersoll rand..and my cordless tools are Milwaukee. .thnx for watching
Thank you for your response. Your video inspired me to do my 2007 Mazda CX-7 brake pads and rotors. At the moment I'm looking for the best deal on the front end rotors and pads. Thanks again...
Jammin Dave awesome. .good luck
Thanks for this. I was replacing some suspension parts and when I pulled the caliper, the M-Spring fell out and I had no idea where it went back. Service manual is useless for this part. Shows it, but doesn't show how it is used. Seems the other ones are completely missing from both front brakes, so literally only had the one that fell out, and couldn't reference it to the others. Guess I could have pulled the rear and looked, but doubt it is there either. Nice job!
Awesome video, language any pervert, er, I mean mechanic can understand
Thank u! Don't forget to subscribe 😉
Just did, don't know why i didn't at the time, but i was working on the car! Replaced hub, bearing, pads, rotors, upper control arm, and tie rod end. Now my ABS light is on (wasn't before) i bled the fronts, but not backs, could that be why? Probably not the ideal thing, but had to hit road-daugter had a doctor appointment. @klowny1969
And replaced sensor wire
Nice, your lingo is like mine!
the_ natrix thanks
what happens when I dont bleed the brakes?
Brakes wont work as well as they should.
I defenetly reccommend to clean a hub to the shine, otherwise your warrianty claim might be rejected by the rotor producer
if I can't get those screws out is it okay if I drill them out won't the lug nuts hold on the disk in place...?
the reason I am asking is because I have to pull the rotor off to access the CV joint I have to take the CV joints to take out the transmission do you have any videos where how to on that I know more or less
Bryan Gomez yes u can drill the screw out..and i do have a video on how to change an axle..thanks for watching and commenting
klowny1969 thanks so much
excellent video
Good video. Thanks...
Thanks for watching dont forget to susbscribe
I already have. Thank you...
@@alejandroroal990 thank you
yup no need to open the bleeder when doing this.. just open the master cylinder reserve. i just did this same car but mine is a 2013 2 nd gen body style is the best. and yes these are ford crap breaks
Never bleed with the reservoir cap off..and there are many reasons why the bleeder open when pushing the piston in, is a good idea
Can't believe you didn't bother to get guide pins out and clean/lubricate them as all the rest. !
7:00 ?
huh
you dont have to open up the bleeder valve to replace brake and rotors you just compromised your brake system unnecessarily just open the brake fluid reservoir use a large c clamp or caliper compressor and (slowly) compress the piston in to avoid damage to your abs system!!
Google how to properly change your brakes
@@klowny1969 yeah you don't have to legitimately
What all tools do I need?
Bleeding is pointless in this rotor change as You did not take the caliper a part.. The air couldn't go in the brake system just with changing discs and pads.. So You waste bit of time for that bleed off..
All the rest quite all right.
Bleeding the brakes when pushing the piston in when changing pads is necessary for two reasons..1) the dirtiest fluid in the whole braking system is in the caliper, when pushed in reverse this dirty fluid can clog an ABS solenoid 2) the master cylinder piston is not designed for fluid to go in reverse, this can cause the master not to work properly because the piston seal wont be seated
in addition to Klowny's perfect advise: Brake fluid generates a tremendous amount of heat. This heat is transferred to the fluid closets to the piston which pushes the pads against the rotors. Brake fluid is hydroscopic (affinity for water) even thought the system is completely sealed through the heat cycles moisture finds it's way in (condensation and particles from materials used in the braking system, etc.) causing "soft" pedal feel, pulsation under heavy braking and INTERNAL corrosion of the braking system components. TAKE THE TIME TO BLEED THE BRAKE LINES PLEASE. A full system exchange is the best course if you have the proper equipment but a partial, as seen here and practiced by most mechanics is generally perfectly suitable for "spent" fluid replacement. You push out the bad and then replace it at the "top" of the system.
I have never seen anyone bleed the brakes when doing a simple brake pad and rotor change? You can just compress the caliper and the fluid will push back to the master cylinder. Much less room for error that way
So I guess you have never seen anyone do a Brake job the right way? Do some research and you will see..don't forget to subscribe 😉
Could have showed the bleed at the start of the vid genius
Say what?
6:47 foreskin lol!
Thank you clown brother.
you got it.dont forget to subscribe
where can I buy this butter sauce lol
+Tarek Taher its just penetrating oil to free any rusty or seized parts
👆 Didn't get it....lol
That buddah sauce really works...
Am I the only one who had trouble with those springs making the brake pads slide back out?
No. They popped out on me too. I just held the pads tight to the rotor with one hand and then put the caliper on with the other hand.
"Here's how to do it, but I won't explain what anything is..." I'm a beginner dude, I don't wanna learn by breaking my car.