88-98 Chevy truck (GMT400) HI beam/LO beam headlight MOD
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ส.ค. 2019
- 88-98 gm truck (aka gmt400 chassis) How to mod four lamp high beam
how to wire:
pin 30 - fused battery 12v positive
pin 85 - chassis ground
pin 86 - high beam
pin 87 - low beam
pin 87A - not used
parts used:
relay:
www.amazon.com/PACK-AMP-Water...
fuse holder
www.amazon.com/10-Pack-EPAuto...
tee shirts:
www.bonfire.com/firing-order-...
Music:
Going East by Ron Gelinas Chillout Lounge | / atmospheric-music-portal
Music promoted by www.free-stock-music.com
Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 Unported License
creativecommons.org/licenses/... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Thanks a lot. I’m doing this for my 97 k1500. The lights just weren’t bright enough and this helps a lot.
The music makes me feel like I'm doing something of vital importance
Thanks for the heads-up! Love the video as I've gotta do this to my shop truck ('94 dually) and my lady's car ('98 'Burb), so I know what I'm doing this weekend. Big help. Keep up the good work brother! Subscribed and gonna check out that Nova now...
Thanks, this exactly what I was looking for to mod my '93!
Really like that blacked out front end on that obs
It needs a black plastic bumper cover... A fake round bumper so to speak. Like a fat lip all puffy. That falls off when hit.
That would make it so much better.
Great Job, and you explained it Perfectly.
There is really no reason it did not come like this out of the factory, considering the headlights on this truck have two individual chambers for low and high beams to begin with.
Thanks Cat Daddy! Worked great with 5 pin off of ebay!
that was easy,thx. nice truck
Thanks for the video
I looked up the factory wiring diagram (I have a 94 Suburban) to figure out how to do this without the kit. Figured it out (I am an electronics engineer). According to the diagram, this looks like it will work (I haven't done it yet because I don't have the quick-splice connectors yet, but I did verify that the wire colors are as shown in the factory diagram, so I have no reason to believe it won't work)...
Where the high-beam switch is on the steering column (it's down pretty low, very easy to access) you'll see 4 wires going to the connector to the switch. 1 yellow (this is the power that is provided by the headlight switch), 1 tan (this goes to the low-beam lights), and 2 green (one is for high beam lights and one for the high-beam indicator light in your dash cluster). To do this same exact mod without the relay, you just splice the yellow (hot but only when headlights are on) and the tan (low beams) with a wire shunt between them. You can use 2 quick-splice connectors to eliminate the need for stripping and soldering and taping and all that. Anyhow, simply connect a piece of appropriate wire (like what is it, 22 gauge?) to connect the yellow with the tan. That way, whenever there is power supplied to the circuit (yellow, via the headlight switch), the low beams are always energized regardless of the state of the high-beam switch. Another benefit of this mod is that the lights will not momentarily blink off when you switch from low to high or vice versa, which is how the high-beam switch normally works (break before make). And if the high-beam selector switch ever breaks, you'll never lack at least your low beams since they are now bypassing that switch.
Just did the mod and verified it works. I modded the quick-connect splicer (18-14 AWD, found at AutoZone) by drilling out the plastic plug that is intended to terminate the end of the butt joint; this way I could use the splicer to join 2 parallel wires without any need for a 3rd wire between them. So it was even simpler than I first imagined. Just loosened up a bit of the black tape and clamped the splicer to join the yellow and tan wires together.
Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for the video. I had the same idea but I see that it works now. BTW you could have ran the hot lead from the back of the alternator.
That is true! Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@Dragracetherapy funny people are asking for a part number for a basic 12v relay. Lol
@@mwyson4095 we will have this lol.
re: pulling power directly from the alternator -- the battery provides some dampening to the fluctuations of the alternator. Not a big deal when supplying incandescent bulbs, but as a rule of thumb I always pull positive from the battery positive
@@jeffeverde1 electricity travels from negative to positive. It doesn't matter where you hook into the positive.
Nice video, made it plain to understand.
Thank you, and thanks for watching 😎
Do you have a cricket in your truck good job thanks for the heads up on that
Don’t know if it’s the same idea as a 2000 gm but all I did was cut the ground wires on the low beams and ground right to the truck
Damn dude I just put in 6500k combined lumens on an H1 low of 34000lm and actually I think my high beam might be just slightly weaker, but wide, together I'll be spotlighting dear in no time
Is that a 454 you've got under the hood??? And if so, Because I didn't think Chevy put the 454 in tahoes those years. It looks awesome. Been thinking about replacing my 350, comma with a 502 Big Block. And I was wondering if it was a hard install ???
Couple of questions, first can you share some parts info on the relay you installed (i.e. part number, where purchased etc), and second what did you use to stand your air cleaner higher up on that throttle body? I have the same cleaner, but can’t use it cause it doesn’t clear the coil. Any info you can share would be fantastic.
Thanks for the questions! I apologize for not linking the parts in the description. Hope this helps!
Here is the relays I used:
www.amazon.com/Pack-EPAuto-Relay-Harness-Bosch/dp/B017VDI0GY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=40+amp+relay&qid=1570167304&sprefix=40+amp&sr=8-3
And this is the air cleaner spacer: www.amazon.com/Spectre-Performance-4954-Cleaner-Riser/dp/B004AJ3306?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B004AJ3306
Should just have to get a longer air cleaner stud.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you, huge help.
im looking for a diagram on the wiring for a 95 gmc sierra im comparing some
the high beam wire is loose so it causes it to cut out
AWSOME IDEA 👍 WHERE CAN I GET THE SAME RELAY AND PLUG FROM ???
All items listed in the description with links to them
FYI,
I used a 1/2" socket to remove a bolt holding the EIC module to the fender and squished the ground connector up under there.
Then I followed the thin positive cable from the battery to the fuse block where I needed a 10MM socket to remove the nut.
I don't know if there's a 1/2" equivalent in the millimeter sockets, I assumed they were all going to be SAE and started with those sockets only dropping back to metric when one didn't fit.
Or maybe this is just from the era when half the bolts on the GM cars were metric and half were SAE.🙄
13mm is roughly equivalent to 1/2
Pin 86 and 87 do they gotta be connected to da bean wire positives (+)
Correct
Tried this on my 95 Suburban but can't get the four lights to come on when switching to high beams...lows go out, highs stay on. As an experiment, I swapped the blue and white wires from the relay, and the four lights did come on in high mode, but when switching back to low mode the highs stayed on and the lows went out. There sufficient voltage at every termination, so I don't know what the problem is. The 95 year did have some quirks, so I'm wondering if this is one of them. Thinking of swapping the ground and power wires to see if that does anything. I am running LEDs in all headlights.
you need a dual-87 relay, triggered by your high beam switch (and you need a relay socket with *5* wires). Wire the relay -
-85- to ground.
-86 to high beam switch.
-30 to battery positive (fused, 10 or 12ga).
-One 87 to high beam lamps
-The other 87 taps into the existing wiring going to the low beam lamps.
The two 87's of a dual-87 are isolated, so when your low switch is on, power can't backfeed thru the relay to the high beam lamps. I think LMC truck sells a kit for this, but you can buy a dual-87 relay and do it yourself.
@@jeffeverde1 Thanks...much appreciated.
My 97 Chevys' wiring harness has 2 dark green wires and 2 light green wires and is same with the brown and tan. Don't have any idea what wires to use..
This link and a test light should get you headed in the right direction...
easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4.3L-5.0L-5.7L/headlight-circuit-diagram-1
I have the exact relay but no wires and my vehicle is 1993 g20 van could you please tell me what pins go to the circuits high low and ground I see the 30 is for constant battery voltage
Everything you need is in the description
I don’t need to do the conversion, I got a bull bar made out of grader blades an railway line.
Are you happy with the aftermarket headlights on that truck? (there are bunch of crappy ones out there with flimsy mounts, non-functional adjusters, etc)
These are "Okay".... They are not flimsy or anything, but I'd really like to go with a brighter bulb or HID set up
@@Dragracetherapy on the brightness of your existing lights -- the way you wired your relay, you're getting "all 4 on", but you're not getting the main benefit of headlight relays, which is providing a high current supply to the lights. The way you've wired your relay, power to the high beam lamps is still coming from the high beam switch. And power to the lows is still coming from the low beam switch. The only time you're seeing the benefit of the high current path thru the relay is to the lows when the high switch is on.
Add a dual-87 relay to the design, and wire it so that -
-the existing 87/87a is triggered (86) by the low beam switch, and 87 goes to the low lamps (with an inline fuse)
-the dual-87 is triggered (86) by the high beam switch, with one 87 terminal going to the high lamps (with an inline fuse), and the other 87 ties into the wire from the low beam relay's 87 to the low lamps. (On a dual-87, the two 87's are isolated - when the low switch is on, the low relay won't backfeed thru the dual-87 to the high lamps)
-run a (fused) 10ga from the 30 on both relays directly to the battery
--run new 12 or 14ga from the relay 87's directly to each lamp socket
-run a new 12 or 14ga from the lamp sockets directly to the battery (or a *known* good ground)
Wiring your headlamps so they're have a high current power supply through a relay (and using appropriate wire gauge), will literally double the brightness of your existing headlights.
Would this work if you have Daytime running light delete?
Yes it will work.
What was the long blue wiring u put under the fan ?
That was a 12 volt feed to the relay
So does the question below about a air cleaner being set up higher have nothing to do with this ?
@@isaccmartinez6533 not this particular video subject. I believe he was just asking bc he noticed it in the video
Hey so stupid question... I just bought an 88 and I'm not sure if the lights are both burnt out. I've never had a vehicle that has a strange button setup for the lights instead of a lever. How do you turn the high beams on 😂
Of all the gm trucks I've been in that were in this year range, it was always pulling the turn signal lever towards you. I would check the easy things like fuses and light bulbs before diving further into it
Great video. What fuse did you use?
If I remember correctly, it was a 30amp fuse
I have a 30 amp 4-way. Will it work?
Yes
The link you put below for the relay is a 5 pin. You used a 4 pin ?
U can use either 4 or 5. Just remove center pin if it's a 5pin
BoostedJROD it’s because I’m currently doing it I wire it like you said and noticed I had a extra wire (yellow ) since I used (white wire to the Bright green ) and (blue wire to the tan ) Can you give me a hand. Been going crazy if I could use the five pin as in the one I. The link you posted
You only need 4 wires... If you have a 5pin with the center wire, just ignore the very center pin/wire. It will not be used. But make sure to heat shrink or tape off the end of the wire so it's protected.
I've updated the description to include which pin number goes to which wire
BoostedJROD I’m going to give it a shot. It’s because MY pin 30 is black so thought commen sence. (Ground !)
Hi.. Did the one relay do both headlights ?
Yes sir
Thanks for getting back to me.. Cheers
GM did that because the lights pull all their amperage through the dash switch. All four bulbs on at once is too much load and GM was too cheap to add a relay OEM.
Looks at wiring diagram and there is a relay for the high and low beams so a simple jumper diode at the switch is so much easier.
Do you have any backfeeding issues?
None that I'm aware of
BOOSTED JROD sounds good. Thanks
Did you put that 454 in yourself?
No that was a factory option in '91
Couldn't you just use a diode
Whole lot of talking to describe a simple relay/fuse modification
Dude . Terrible how to vid!
Thanks!!! I feel accomplished!!