Sam, at 10:53 no need to feel down, I did similar, but on a Hasselblad 500c/m and its taken 3 rolls to get it right; (have done 1 acceptable roll on h1 {6x4.5} another LF Sinar 6x12 (Zoom back))-these are fine, my issue was glare, and whiteout (over exposure), but I have since used a lens shade ALWAYS and metered with a mirrorless ( } end of histogram, to detect high end highlights, at zone 10)- and adjusted metering on digital, for contrast and to ensure details, all these efforts have come out 'trumps', no pun here :-) , and am ecstatic with my results, to get to a point where all that effort is used productively. a tip, when I found out the problems, I got my magasine serviced (CLA) and used this one for the good shots, as I know its not leaking light; this can also fix any winding issues, as you have described, could be you didn't lock up the tab right, but also the winding gear may be faulty, thats where a CLA comes in handy.
hey, Sam, there is one other film that uses this "remjet" layer, 4x5" 5x7" and 8x10" lf sheet films, as they have the same problem, light going through the film, hitting the septum of the holder, and reflecting back, causing a double exposure/flare and other nasties.
I have my labs process normal c-41 colour film in ecn2 process giving more saturated colors overall. Particularly good on the cinestill films but also Kodak
I'm using Cinestill 2step simplified solution for ECN-2, and baking soda for removing rem-jet, works pretty well.
Finally a new video. :)
Friends always come with their own unique set of skills.
I've really been enjoying Vision 3 film, I'm getting it on Taobao for half the price of portra ! Haven't tried developing it myself yet though lol.
250D is my all time favourite! Love your pictures ❤
Sam, at 10:53 no need to feel down, I did similar, but on a Hasselblad 500c/m and its taken 3 rolls to get it right; (have done 1 acceptable roll on h1 {6x4.5} another LF Sinar 6x12 (Zoom back))-these are fine, my issue was glare, and whiteout (over exposure), but I have since used a lens shade ALWAYS and metered with a mirrorless ( } end of histogram, to detect high end highlights, at zone 10)- and adjusted metering on digital, for contrast and to ensure details, all these efforts have come out 'trumps', no pun here :-) , and am ecstatic with my results, to get to a point where all that effort is used productively.
a tip, when I found out the problems, I got my magasine serviced (CLA) and used this one for the good shots, as I know its not leaking light; this can also fix any winding issues, as you have described, could be you didn't lock up the tab right, but also the winding gear may be faulty, thats where a CLA comes in handy.
Great information you shared. I will be trying this film now. Had many doubts until I saw your video. I'll share my results if you like.
Give us a link 😊
where do you get the 250D in 120?
hey, Sam, there is one other film that uses this "remjet" layer, 4x5" 5x7" and 8x10" lf sheet films, as they have the same problem, light going through the film, hitting the septum of the holder, and reflecting back, causing a double exposure/flare and other nasties.
I have my labs process normal c-41 colour film in ecn2 process giving more saturated colors overall. Particularly good on the cinestill films but also Kodak
tried baking soda with c41 once
Works fine, but the ram jet removing process is way too messy, it sticks everywhere
0:13 见到海带了~~~~ Sam啥时候出一期E6的哇
Sam.... do you casually know a second hand cameras store in Shanghai you recommend please????
wows! a 120 seaweed
As the 500T is balanced for tungsten light, to get the warmer richer colors in daylight need an 82b filter for the camera