I have also had trouble with loading two rolls on the same reel before but then has more or less figured it out. When you load the first roll, make sure to wind it as far as you can so the film will go further into the core of the reel. One roll of 120 usually takes about 4 rounds on the reels. Wind until you feel like it cannot go any further. Only then you close the red clip and load the second one. With the second one, wind it in and as soon as the end of the roll catch on to the reel then stop. Don’t wind it much further. With this method I have been having very consistent result in not having overlap negative. Hope this help 😊
I've made the mistake of using developer that was either too old or exhausted. Most home dev kits are rated for 8-12 rolls. I'll usually wait to develop in batches and if I have to develop more than 12 then start adding time as the developer gets weaker
You are my favorite film youtuber, so happy to have found you a couple of weeks ago! Thanks for sharing, I immediately told my boyfriend to watch this video since he mistook fixer for developer recently when developing one of my film rolls 😅. There’s so much to learn about shooting film and developing, it’s definitely a journey! I love that you’re sharing yours with us, the good and the bad. 👍🏻
Thank you!! I should have teach my boifriend how to develop films as well!! So he can do it for me~ but I don't think he has any interest in photography though~
10:30 old dev gives you either color shift, very thin negatives, flat negatives or all of these three. The edge code means, that the film has already been pre exposed with it by the factory. So no edge code would mean that the film was not (highly doubt that). With old chem it would also be there, but not show up as black on the neg. The combination with the blank image part means either no exposure (doubt, too) or just mistaking fix for dev. Or (as your dev is pretty dark), mistaking bleach for dev. Also you might have to bite the bullet at some point and do two rolls in one batch. That will drain the chemistry slower plus you also use it up faster and more consistently (no multiple reheating and pouring which will introduce more air into the chem). If you are using just small 1 liter kits, i would suggest not using these big ass containers for the chemistry or at least push them down a bit. Otherwise it will also keep air locked in and reduce shelf live (which is around two weeks when mixed with most of the kits).
if the roll is empty, either you loaded it lose in the camera, and light snuck in, OR there is a mechanical fault with the camera, or it's magasine advance, aka it was freewheeled to the end, aka the stop for frame one didn't work!, or the film recognition failed (like in Rollieflex TLR's not putting the film under the first silver roller!)\ hasselblad H1\2 if the battery in the mag fails, the counter is lost, and wind-on continues wasting the film, accidentally hitting the "auto wind-off" button, etc. so if in doubt, get a C.L.A.[Clean\Lube/Adjustment] on it (the tech term for a service, like one you give your car). one other mistake on loading is the tapered bit not catching the wind-up spool, so slipping out, and not advancing the film!! (mech. advance cameras, or delicate mechanics, like in the sinar or other MF backs for LF cameras); the misalignment of spool to drive gears, or misloading inserts, etc. is also an obvious one for this "BUGGER!!!" list.
Sam one other way of checking developer, that I have heard is a "flock test" aka how long a fresh film takes to fog and the density of this fog, to ascertain if it is working correctly; and like lab techs do, date the chemistry, if it is multi-use, or just use 'one-shot' ; that way it gets made and disposed of, so no risk of 'weak' magic tricks, just the good stuff.
Lots of insights and stuff that’s worth knowing beforehand! I’ve never tried home developing before but thanks to this video I now think that I for sure won’t in the near future haha I’m frightened by the idea of messing up even one precious roll especially with today’s prices 🤯 But cool vid as always
ahhhh… i’m sorry my video scared you. It’s not my intention. These mistakes that I made can be easily avoid. If mistakes have to happen, just take that as an opportunity to learn. I know the idea is very scary. It’s still very scary to me, but I still wish one day you would try it because for how scary it is, it’s also very very fun…
(2:34) That's the reason I've ALWAYS had enough chemicals in the tank to cover the whole film. No matter how wasteful that was. Yeah, I've never developed with the processor, course that crap was unobtainable expensive, but always by hand, course safe bet is an safe bet. Especially if on that film is something of importance. Cleaning your equipment before the next round should be ubiquitous.
Color final rinse is known to interfere with developing, if this is carried over to developer. Always clean your equipment with clean water because of this. This problem is most obvious in E-6.
one solution to the overlap of films is to use a 3 or 4 reel tank, and load them on separate reels, so nothing touches, as each has its own spool, and the spools are stacked on each other, so has adequate space.
@@itscapturedbysam No, as you have a 'jobo' that rotates the tank, in the horizontal position, physics, only the lower 1/4 needs the chemistry, as agitation takes it around, to the rest of the film, so only 250ml or so is required, not the 1.5L that this tank would hold, in volume!, thats the big advantage of these, if however you used a dunk tank (like the metal ones LF shooters sometimes employ), then thats a different story, there you lift and replace the "carrier" each agitation, so you NEED to cover the film completely, like boiling veg in cooking, but for a 1, 2 or 3 reel tank, the volume is the same, you are just using more tank area with reels, not empty space!; if it where a Patterson tank, THERE you would need more, as you have a larger tank, and are inverting to agitate; if you are following along here its the METHOD of AGITATION that matters, this determines the amount of chemistry needed. the "lab box" is another innovative solution, but this is the same TANK, just different loading/reel accessories attached to the main 'box' ; but as with all turn key solutions, the instructions will tell you how much, for what film loading configurations.
I am planning on making the "too old developer" mistake later this afternoon with some ECN-2 chemistry. I was surprised that the last film turned out ok a few months ago and I'm inclined to risk it with another roll of film even though I know it's a stupid idea. But knowing I'm about to do something stupid hasn't stopped me in the past. Anyway, thanks for this video. It's a good round up of potential mistakes I may want to consider making in the future.
I had to stop developing my own film bc I kept making too many mistakes. The worst one for me was a roll of 120 I used at a local event on 6x6, even had some family on the roll. But it didn't develop long enough so it wouldn't let any light through. I tried to redevelop a single frame and watched it fade out of existence, I cried a lot lol
ahh.. I'm sorry to here that.. we all make mistakes, I know how frustrate that could be, if Lab developing can be cheaper, I may not do all of them myself either... but I know, only I keep doing it, I will be better at it, and at one point I will not make mistakes again!!
@@itscapturedbysam its all good now, but i definitely had to take a step back for a few months before developing again lol but nowadays i do both digital and film so that way i can at least have a few images if any get lost or come out blank. But practice does make perfect and it's cool to see someone talking about the mistakes that come with come developing! Makes me feel better about mistakes lol
One of the big reasons the young people get bad results is the attitude "you can fix it in post". Proper procedures are not followed, and negatives are more or less off the standards. But people don't care, or in the worst case, even realize this, as so much can be edited in digital post production. It would be much easier to do it right in the first place. This means quality chemistry instead of those "Cinestill simplified kits", and keeping up with correct times and temperatures. 90% of videos here in TH-cam are by inexperienced people making mistakes with the basics, and others copying these mistakes - such as not maintaining the temperature while developing, or waiting a minute cleaning something between pouring out the developer and pouring in the bleach.
I’ve had all of these issues in the past too- but I think everyone is too coward to post about them- it’s good to learn from our own mistakes but it’s reassuring to know someone else has had problems too.
I don't remember how many batches of RA-4 chemistry I have ruined by starting pouring used blix in the developer bottle ruining it and having to mix a new one. It happens in the middle of the night when you are printing your 32nd print of that day, or so. Mistakes do happen to everybody. Or calculating the dilutions wrong with black & white developers, where different dilutions are used with different films. Or using wrong time for the film in question by mistake. Or the light of a ringing cellphone ruining your film. Leaving a multigrade filter in your enlarger's filter drawer, and thinking why the colors of your color prints are very much off. All of these are stupid mistakes easily avoided, but they do happen even to people having years of experience with film.
I'm also a cowardly one-120-roll-at-a-time developer after having a bad batch of overlapping rolls. Takes more time, uses more chemical, but I'd rather just get it done safely. 🤣 Nice video, as always!
If you know the basics, and stick to correct temperatures and times, there is not anything very hard in developing film. That said, anything where people are involved, can be screwed up in ways unimaginable.
I have also had trouble with loading two rolls on the same reel before but then has more or less figured it out. When you load the first roll, make sure to wind it as far as you can so the film will go further into the core of the reel. One roll of 120 usually takes about 4 rounds on the reels. Wind until you feel like it cannot go any further. Only then you close the red clip and load the second one.
With the second one, wind it in and as soon as the end of the roll catch on to the reel then stop. Don’t wind it much further. With this method I have been having very consistent result in not having overlap negative. Hope this help 😊
I've made the mistake of using developer that was either too old or exhausted. Most home dev kits are rated for 8-12 rolls. I'll usually wait to develop in batches and if I have to develop more than 12 then start adding time as the developer gets weaker
You are my favorite film youtuber, so happy to have found you a couple of weeks ago! Thanks for sharing, I immediately told my boyfriend to watch this video since he mistook fixer for developer recently when developing one of my film rolls 😅. There’s so much to learn about shooting film and developing, it’s definitely a journey! I love that you’re sharing yours with us, the good and the bad. 👍🏻
Thank you!! I should have teach my boifriend how to develop films as well!! So he can do it for me~ but I don't think he has any interest in photography though~
Thank you for sharing Sam.
Thank you for watching :)
Such good tips, I’ve been getting hyped to develop my own films and your videos are great :)
10:30 old dev gives you either color shift, very thin negatives, flat negatives or all of these three.
The edge code means, that the film has already been pre exposed with it by the factory. So no edge code would mean that the film was not (highly doubt that).
With old chem it would also be there, but not show up as black on the neg.
The combination with the blank image part means either no exposure (doubt, too) or just mistaking fix for dev. Or (as your dev is pretty dark), mistaking bleach for dev.
Also you might have to bite the bullet at some point and do two rolls in one batch. That will drain the chemistry slower plus you also use it up faster and more consistently (no multiple reheating and pouring which will introduce more air into the chem).
If you are using just small 1 liter kits, i would suggest not using these big ass containers for the chemistry or at least push them down a bit. Otherwise it will also keep air locked in and reduce shelf live (which is around two weeks when mixed with most of the kits).
if the roll is empty, either you loaded it lose in the camera, and light snuck in, OR there is a mechanical fault with the camera, or it's magasine advance, aka it was freewheeled to the end, aka the stop for frame one didn't work!, or the film recognition failed (like in Rollieflex TLR's not putting the film under the first silver roller!)\ hasselblad H1\2 if the battery in the mag fails, the counter is lost, and wind-on continues wasting the film, accidentally hitting the "auto wind-off" button, etc. so if in doubt, get a C.L.A.[Clean\Lube/Adjustment] on it (the tech term for a service, like one you give your car).
one other mistake on loading is the tapered bit not catching the wind-up spool, so slipping out, and not advancing the film!! (mech. advance cameras, or delicate mechanics, like in the sinar or other MF backs for LF cameras); the misalignment of spool to drive gears, or misloading inserts, etc. is also an obvious one for this "BUGGER!!!" list.
Sam one other way of checking developer, that I have heard is a "flock test" aka how long a fresh film takes to fog and the density of this fog, to ascertain if it is working correctly; and like lab techs do, date the chemistry, if it is multi-use, or just use 'one-shot' ; that way it gets made and disposed of, so no risk of 'weak' magic tricks, just the good stuff.
Lots of insights and stuff that’s worth knowing beforehand!
I’ve never tried home developing before but thanks to this video I now think that I for sure won’t in the near future haha
I’m frightened by the idea of messing up even one precious roll especially with today’s prices 🤯
But cool vid as always
ahhhh… i’m sorry my video scared you. It’s not my intention. These mistakes that I made can be easily avoid. If mistakes have to happen, just take that as an opportunity to learn. I know the idea is very scary. It’s still very scary to me, but I still wish one day you would try it because for how scary it is, it’s also very very fun…
(2:34) That's the reason I've ALWAYS had enough chemicals in the tank to cover the whole film. No matter how wasteful that was. Yeah, I've never developed with the processor, course that crap was unobtainable expensive, but always by hand, course safe bet is an safe bet. Especially if on that film is something of importance.
Cleaning your equipment before the next round should be ubiquitous.
Color final rinse is known to interfere with developing, if this is carried over to developer. Always clean your equipment with clean water because of this. This problem is most obvious in E-6.
Mom! Sam doing another awesome education video!!
one solution to the overlap of films is to use a 3 or 4 reel tank, and load them on separate reels, so nothing touches, as each has its own spool, and the spools are stacked on each other, so has adequate space.
Yeah.. but dose that require more chemicals?
@@itscapturedbysam No, as you have a 'jobo' that rotates the tank, in the horizontal position, physics, only the lower 1/4 needs the chemistry, as agitation takes it around, to the rest of the film, so only 250ml or so is required, not the 1.5L that this tank would hold, in volume!, thats the big advantage of these, if however you used a dunk tank (like the metal ones LF shooters sometimes employ), then thats a different story, there you lift and replace the "carrier" each agitation, so you NEED to cover the film completely, like boiling veg in cooking, but for a 1, 2 or 3 reel tank, the volume is the same, you are just using more tank area with reels, not empty space!; if it where a Patterson tank, THERE you would need more, as you have a larger tank, and are inverting to agitate; if you are following along here its the METHOD of AGITATION that matters, this determines the amount of chemistry needed. the "lab box" is another innovative solution, but this is the same TANK, just different loading/reel accessories attached to the main 'box' ; but as with all turn key solutions, the instructions will tell you how much, for what film loading configurations.
I am planning on making the "too old developer" mistake later this afternoon with some ECN-2 chemistry. I was surprised that the last film turned out ok a few months ago and I'm inclined to risk it with another roll of film even though I know it's a stupid idea. But knowing I'm about to do something stupid hasn't stopped me in the past. Anyway, thanks for this video. It's a good round up of potential mistakes I may want to consider making in the future.
That's the fun of film!! It's all about try it out~~~
I had to stop developing my own film bc I kept making too many mistakes. The worst one for me was a roll of 120 I used at a local event on 6x6, even had some family on the roll. But it didn't develop long enough so it wouldn't let any light through. I tried to redevelop a single frame and watched it fade out of existence, I cried a lot lol
ahh.. I'm sorry to here that.. we all make mistakes, I know how frustrate that could be, if Lab developing can be cheaper, I may not do all of them myself either... but I know, only I keep doing it, I will be better at it, and at one point I will not make mistakes again!!
@@itscapturedbysam its all good now, but i definitely had to take a step back for a few months before developing again lol but nowadays i do both digital and film so that way i can at least have a few images if any get lost or come out blank. But practice does make perfect and it's cool to see someone talking about the mistakes that come with come developing! Makes me feel better about mistakes lol
sam 我跟你一样的装备 拓海冲洗机里面不是有个倒药的漏斗吗 可以开始转再倒药进去 希望能帮助到你
嗯嗯 我没有那个漏斗 之后有机会还是想直接升级成升臂 就更方便啦～～～
One of the big reasons the young people get bad results is the attitude "you can fix it in post". Proper procedures are not followed, and negatives are more or less off the standards. But people don't care, or in the worst case, even realize this, as so much can be edited in digital post production. It would be much easier to do it right in the first place. This means quality chemistry instead of those "Cinestill simplified kits", and keeping up with correct times and temperatures. 90% of videos here in TH-cam are by inexperienced people making mistakes with the basics, and others copying these mistakes - such as not maintaining the temperature while developing, or waiting a minute cleaning something between pouring out the developer and pouring in the bleach.
I’ve had all of these issues in the past too- but I think everyone is too coward to post about them- it’s good to learn from our own mistakes but it’s reassuring to know someone else has had problems too.
From the feedbacks I have received, turns out, a lot of people make these mistakes, it's also good to know I'm not the only one lol~
I don't remember how many batches of RA-4 chemistry I have ruined by starting pouring used blix in the developer bottle ruining it and having to mix a new one. It happens in the middle of the night when you are printing your 32nd print of that day, or so. Mistakes do happen to everybody. Or calculating the dilutions wrong with black & white developers, where different dilutions are used with different films. Or using wrong time for the film in question by mistake. Or the light of a ringing cellphone ruining your film. Leaving a multigrade filter in your enlarger's filter drawer, and thinking why the colors of your color prints are very much off. All of these are stupid mistakes easily avoided, but they do happen even to people having years of experience with film.
Ive done the tape method and it works great! Im still too scared to do 2 rolls at once most of the time though 😂
we are all so traumatized... lol
谢谢分享！我第一次知道120胶卷可以一次上两卷在一个卷轴上，下次一定试试！我有30卷等待开发，救命了hhhhh
Don't. Be. A. ✨Coward ✨ (great vid Sam!)
I'm also a cowardly one-120-roll-at-a-time developer after having a bad batch of overlapping rolls. Takes more time, uses more chemical, but I'd rather just get it done safely. 🤣 Nice video, as always!
Home developing is a risk sport, that's why it's so exciting.
Right??? It's so "dangerous" but so exciting!!
If you know the basics, and stick to correct temperatures and times, there is not anything very hard in developing film. That said, anything where people are involved, can be screwed up in ways unimaginable.
👍❤喜歡您的節目
谢谢！！
The roll of Kodak Nothing 400. You hate to see it.
我喜欢的节目又开始啦
感谢群友😅
爱看翻车是吧哈哈哈
I am still a one roll per spool kinda person with medium format.
That's what I have been doing... but sometimes, when you got a lot to go through.. it's just faster double it down lol~