*So far this product works really well exact same machine **MyBest.Tools** as the other ones just different colors in Parts such as the handles versus Ryobi skill exact same machine. Changing the blade Is a little difficult at first, but when you get it it's easy it's all about the tensioning and leveling out the blade, Great price*
Jonathan just wanted to say that you really have stepped up your videos. Not gonna lie when I first came across your channel I was not a huge fan. The last 2-3 months I am a fan now! Really enjoying the tip videos. Thanks again and looking forward to what you upload next! All the best!
I agree with everything in this video except the first thing he talks about. I used to de- tension my blade when I was done for the day and re tension when I needed to use it again. And I was snapping a blade at least once every 3 months and that can get expensive especially with resaw king blades. I stopped doing in and have been running the same blade for almost 2 years now with weekly use.
Nice vid! But I have to disagree with blade alignment. I feel it depends on the size of the blade. Obviously for that one you'll want to center it on the wheel. But for say a 1/2" or smaller I prefer Alex Snodgrass' method of centering the gullet on the wheel and not the entire blade.
Something to share...if you want a glass smooth, vibration free with sound reduction, try the 'Wood Slicer Bandsaw Blades' from Highland Woodworking. They have uneven spacing between teeth which reduces vibration and gives an ultra-smooth cut. I regularly slice ultra-smooth 1/16" veneers with these blades.
I just purchased the same bandsaw and I’m so glad I stepped up to the 17”. It’s my first ever so I’m getting used to it. I wish I could find a video that explains how to cut curves. I seem to struggle and suspect I’m not using the correct amount of forward pressure compared to how much I’m actually turning the piece I’m cutting. I hope that makes sense. Maybe an idea for a follow up video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Hullo young man, One of the thing's I like about your channel is that you not only do good well explained project's you give great advice on quite an array of shop tool's and machinery. You really must speak a wee bit slower as you seem to get yourself a bit puffed out. Take it easy young man.
Hey Jonathan, after just watching your Band Saw Tune up vid dated May 30 of this year, you may want to take this one down. Aligning the blade on the wheel in this one is the old way of doing. Just a thought.
Awesome videos, I love this series! So I've seen several videos recently stating that the bottom of the gullet in the center of the tire instead of the blade itself being centered. I recently set mine up that way and don't have bad drift for the first time. Any thoughts? (Granted I have a crappy HF 14" bandsaw, and not a nicer one, so not sure if that matters) Thanks for the video! Cheers!
thank you Katz great stuff from you . i have the same bandsaw but up graded the to the bearing guides ( not sealed )they are shielded used some wd 40 got em working again . so use the top extractor for dust collection. been using it to cut logs pear , plum , birch and some oak . the 1 inch did not work as well as the 3/4 inch could not get the 1 inch to the gullet but the 3/4 will . oh and watch out on the cuts some times it will zip( go faster ) at the end so yup nicked hand lol blood sacrifice to the tool gods lol . again thank you
Love your videos very informative, however, I always end up spending a ton of money after watching your videos, obviously at KM tools lol. My question is I have this exact same bandsaw and I'm having issues finding the 131.5 blades, can you recommend where to get them? Thanks
you stand a chance of getting a flat spot on your rubber/urethane wheel if you don't de-tension when not in use over a period of time...causing vibration.
@@Citeman101: Yes it could happen, but in 5 years it has not happened with my 14 in Porter Cable ( sold at Lowes). Without modifying the design blade tensioner, it a pain to de-tension. Also I'm lazy. If I were to de-tension (I won't), how much is needed? Thanks.
Bandsaw blades wear faster than carbide table saw blades and the carbide ones are very expensive. I have resharpened them with some successes and some failures. I wish there was an affordable resharpening service. If anyone knows of one please post.
Another tip: when you detension your saw, open the upper wheel cover to remind yourself that it's detensioned. You really don't want to start the saw without tension on the blade.
Great info. I got a troubleshooting question. I have a grizzly 14in. The blade has a wobble but seems like in one place, kinda like a tire rolling over intermittent bumps. And it seems like my blades are curving in on themselves, layed flat on its back the teeth are all curling twords eachother. Are these 2 different problems, or related? How would i troubleshoot these, any ideas, anyone
I would get q new blade. It sounds like you have a bad weld and possibly something else going on. If you bought it recently I would contact the manufacturer and tell them what's going on
Always better to only tension it when you're working with it. Think about a rubberband. If it's fully extended all the time it loses it elasticity and you need to stretch it further and further to get the same tightness
The space conditioned or not has nothing to do with it. Leave the blade tight and not moving for a long period of days and weeks and your put a misshape bend in the blade. DUH!
Jonathan sucks at names. We all know that. Guard=guide hahaha.
I know it is kinda off topic but do anybody know of a good place to stream newly released movies online ?
@Luka Maxim lately I have been using Flixzone. You can find it by googling :)
Thanks for the advice. I just bought a Grizzly 17 inch 40th anniversary model. And will put your good advice to use with this saw
*So far this product works really well exact same machine **MyBest.Tools** as the other ones just different colors in Parts such as the handles versus Ryobi skill exact same machine. Changing the blade Is a little difficult at first, but when you get it it's easy it's all about the tensioning and leveling out the blade, Great price*
Jonathan just wanted to say that you really have stepped up your videos. Not gonna lie when I first came across your channel I was not a huge fan. The last 2-3 months I am a fan now! Really enjoying the tip videos. Thanks again and looking forward to what you upload next! All the best!
Cheers!
Another great video. I just bought my first bandsaw and can't wait to get it set up when it arrives tomorrow. Keep up the good work!
What kind did you get?
This is a really excellent tutorial , thanks!
I agree with everything in this video except the first thing he talks about. I used to de- tension my blade when I was done for the day and re tension when I needed to use it again. And I was snapping a blade at least once every 3 months and that can get expensive especially with resaw king blades. I stopped doing in and have been running the same blade for almost 2 years now with weekly use.
Nice vid! But I have to disagree with blade alignment. I feel it depends on the size of the blade. Obviously for that one you'll want to center it on the wheel. But for say a 1/2" or smaller I prefer Alex Snodgrass' method of centering the gullet on the wheel and not the entire blade.
Another great video, this skills series is turning out great many thanks as usual 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Really nice series!
congratulations!
Thanks bud!
Something to share...if you want a glass smooth, vibration free with sound reduction, try the 'Wood Slicer Bandsaw Blades' from Highland Woodworking. They have uneven spacing between teeth which reduces vibration and gives an ultra-smooth cut. I regularly slice ultra-smooth 1/16" veneers with these blades.
Great tip!
Excellent video on the band saw. I like your wood post stick. I need to use something like that on my band saw.
Thanks bud!
Between this and other videos over the last week, I am now painfully aware of the lack of googley eyes in my shop. Will remedy asap.
More googly eyes!
good video thank you
I just purchased the same bandsaw and I’m so glad I stepped up to the 17”. It’s my first ever so I’m getting used to it. I wish I could find a video that explains how to cut curves. I seem to struggle and suspect I’m not using the correct amount of forward pressure compared to how much I’m actually turning the piece I’m cutting. I hope that makes sense. Maybe an idea for a follow up video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Practice practice practice. Also get a thinner blade
Jonathan Katz-Moses I did get a .25” 4TPI and that has helped a lot.
You’re a man of your word Mr. K-M! Good Vid, thanks!
Great video again!
Thanks brother!
Hullo young man, One of the thing's I like about your channel is that you not only do good well explained project's you give great advice on quite an array of shop tool's and machinery. You really must speak a wee bit slower as you seem to get yourself a bit puffed out. Take it easy young man.
Hahahaha thank you sir!
another great tip thumbs up
Thanks bud!
Hey Jonathan, after just watching your Band Saw Tune up vid dated May 30 of this year, you may want to take this one down. Aligning the blade on the wheel in this one is the old way of doing. Just a thought.
Awesome videos, I love this series! So I've seen several videos recently stating that the bottom of the gullet in the center of the tire instead of the blade itself being centered. I recently set mine up that way and don't have bad drift for the first time. Any thoughts? (Granted I have a crappy HF 14" bandsaw, and not a nicer one, so not sure if that matters) Thanks for the video! Cheers!
I've seen those too and have yet to try it. I'll give it a go
thank you Katz great stuff from you . i have the same bandsaw but up graded the to the bearing guides ( not sealed )they are shielded used some wd 40 got em working again . so use the top extractor for dust collection. been using it to cut logs pear , plum , birch and some oak . the 1 inch did not work as well as the 3/4 inch could not get the 1 inch to the gullet but the 3/4 will . oh and watch out on the cuts some times it will zip( go faster ) at the end so yup nicked hand lol blood sacrifice to the tool gods lol . again thank you
I'm going to get the cast iron table trunions
humm not a bad idea oh get the bearing set much better
So what’s with the releasing tension? I never do and don’t notice any negative results?
Love your videos very informative, however, I always end up spending a ton of money after watching your videos, obviously at KM tools lol. My question is I have this exact same bandsaw and I'm having issues finding the 131.5 blades, can you recommend where to get them? Thanks
Any time I try resawing the pieces cup like crazy, any advice?
So 18 if we can spare a little more space in the shop?
Where can one find a replacement fence, I have an old 12” craftsman without a fence
what company do you get your bandsaw guards from
Thanks for video and I want Ask you do u recommend Makita band saw?
i love bandsaws! i must admit i never de-tension my blades anymore though.
They're cheap so not critical
you stand a chance of getting a flat spot on your rubber/urethane wheel if you don't de-tension when not in use over a period of time...causing vibration.
@@Citeman101: Yes it could happen, but in 5 years it has not happened with my 14 in Porter Cable ( sold at Lowes). Without modifying the design blade tensioner, it a pain to de-tension. Also I'm lazy. If I were to de-tension (I won't), how much is needed? Thanks.
Bandsaw blades wear faster than carbide table saw blades and the carbide ones are very expensive. I have resharpened them with some successes and some failures. I wish there was an affordable resharpening service. If anyone knows of one please post.
Another tip: when you detension your saw, open the upper wheel cover to remind yourself that it's detensioned. You really don't want to start the saw without tension on the blade.
Good to but if you make it a habit you'll never make the mistake
Great idea... Thanks
7:10 We love you too.
Hahah I was waiting for this
Gave me a pretty good chuckle. A friends mom used to push her glasses up this way.
Ridiculas blade on that bandsaw. What is that? Inch and a quarter??
Great info. I got a troubleshooting question. I have a grizzly 14in. The blade has a wobble but seems like in one place, kinda like a tire rolling over intermittent bumps. And it seems like my blades are curving in on themselves, layed flat on its back the teeth are all curling twords eachother. Are these 2 different problems, or related? How would i troubleshoot these, any ideas, anyone
I would get q new blade. It sounds like you have a bad weld and possibly something else going on. If you bought it recently I would contact the manufacturer and tell them what's going on
Katz-Moses Woodworking Shop thanks will Do
There is a reason why Johnathan still has all his fingers after all these years, push sticks, use them.
if you saw is in a conditioned space, do you need to remove the tension?
Always better to only tension it when you're working with it. Think about a rubberband. If it's fully extended all the time it loses it elasticity and you need to stretch it further and further to get the same tightness
The space conditioned or not has nothing to do with it. Leave the blade tight and not moving for a long period of days and weeks and your put a misshape bend in the blade. DUH!
@@MrBonners thank God! I was waiting for the smartest guy in the world to jump in. DUH!!
Hmm, I always keep the gullets riding in the center of the wheel. You probably can’t do that with that beefy blade, though.
Two schools of thought but this way works for me. Cheers bud
I’m glad you mentioned this as I wondered about it too. The “classic” advice is to center the gullet I thought.
The first thing I'm doing with my saw is adding googly eyes
Googly eyes make everything better.
Woodglut plans are amazing!