There is a part 2 to this video, but it’s not likely to ever be made. It would show me patiently staring at this stack of wood for a year - even Travis’s considerable skill with time-lapse photography couldn’t make that interesting. Nonetheless, there is some important information to gleaned, beginning with the reason behind my patience. This is not to let the wood dry, as is sometimes presumed, but to let it stabilize. Wood is in constant motion, owing to its unique relationship with water. Wood is hygroscopic, it is constantly absorbing and releasing water as the conditions of its environment change. It swells when it takes on water, and shrinks when releasing it. But it doesn’t move equally in all directions. On the average, a board moves up to 8% of its dimension tangent to the annual rings, 4% radial to those rings, and 0.1% along their axis, parallel to the wood grain. This uneven movement can cause the wood to warp, cup, and twist as it absorbs and releases moisture. It is extremely prone to this distortion during the drying process. When a tree is first felled, it’s chock full of water. There are, in fact, two types of water in green (freshly cut) lumber - “free” water that fills the cells, and “bound” water that saturates the cellulose fibers that make up the cell walls. As it dries, wood loses its free water first. This may take several months depending on the thickness of the boards you’ve cut, and the wood shrinks only a little during this stage. But as it begins to lose the bound water, it shrinks at a faster rate. Because the outsides of the board dry faster than the core, the uneven shrinking causes the boards to warp, twist, and cup - unless you do something to prevent it. Fortunately, wood also “creeps” - that is, you can get the cellulose fibers to realign and change the shape of the board simply by applying constant pressure. This is why sawyers carefully stack freshly cut boards in evenly spaced layers to dry - the weight of the stack itself provides the pressure needed to convince the fibers to cooperate and keep the boards flat. Often they put additional weight on top of the stack where the boards aren’t under enough pressure to prevent distortion. In small stacks there’s not enough weight to provide the necessary pressure. So I added the baling wire loops to generate that pressure. When the wires are tight enough to hold the boards without shifting, they will also keep the boards relatively flat. While it's drying, store your wood in an unheated, un-airconditioned, un-dehumidified space. (All these things alter the relative humidity, and the whole purpose of this exercise is for the wood to reach equilibrium with the prevailing RH in your geographic location. Only then does the wood stabilize.) A shed, a carport, or a barn works well. You can also stack the wood outside, off the ground, and cover it with exterior plywood or roofing to ward off the rain. Leave the sides of the stack open to the wind so the air can circulate. Avoid tarps. Unless properly "tented" so it doesn't touch the wood, a tarp may trap moisture and encourage fungi to grow. A few months down the road, there’s suddenly something happening! There’s some movement in this monotonous Part 2 video as I yawn, pick up my screwdriver, and check the wires. As the wood shrinks, the wires will slowly loosen and the pressure decreases. You may have to tighten a few wires to keep the pressure where it should be. The wires are aligned radially with the annual rings (where the movement is less), so you won’t have to do this often. But it is something to check on every month or so. After drying a year per inch (25 mm) of thickness, the wood will have reached equilibrium with the relative humidity in its location. It’s not dry - it never dries completely. Because it is hygroscopic, wood retains about 1% moisture content for every 5% of relative humidity. If the relative humidity in the barn where you’ve stored it is 50%, the wood will have about 10% moisture content. After some time has passed, you may want to test the moisture content. If you don't have a moisture meter, cut a block from a board at least 3 inches (8 centimeters) in from an end. Weigh it on a sensitive scale (wet weight), place the block in an oven for 2 hours at 200-250 degrees to dry it out, and weigh it a again (dry weight). Subtract the dry weight from the wet weight and divide the result by the wet weight. Multiply that result by 100 -- that will give you the moisture content in per cent (%). Wood normally stabilizes at 8% to 12% moisture content, depending on where you live. Once you're sure the wood is no longer continually losing water, it’s ready to be worked. Or almost. There’s another step to this drying process. The relative humidity in your barn is not quite the same as in your shop. So bring the stack into the shop and let it rest for two weeks letting the moisture content in the wood arrive at equilibrium with the relative humidity in the shop. (Stage directions: Nick stops staring at the stack in the barn and brings it into his shop. Curtain falls for 14 days to denote the passing of two weeks.) This is called “shop drying,” and it’s a critical part of the process. Fortunately, it’s also the last. Time to snip those wires and make something. See you in a year - and two weeks.
What a huge lot of seriously useful information, all so clearly presented. Thank you for a great video and even more brilliant info in your comments and answers.
Wow. A man that actually knows something worth knowing. Awesome video. Thank you for sharing, sir. Good to know there are real men like you still out there. Salute.
This gentleman can be a really good story teller with his voice. Honestly I don't need to know any of this stuff but the video is so authentic I watched till the end anyways.
I use cheap woodglue at the end of the board. put it on with a paint brush then i use news paper, the news paper has woodfiber in them and then i use more woodglue over the paper. This way the wood will never crack. I learnd this metod of my grandfather. We all have our metods for the endgrain. As allways great video
Actually, I use paraffin wax dissolved in Xylol because it penetrates deep into the end grains. As you point out, there are a hundred ways to seal the ends. But I wanted to make this do-able for folks without having to invest in chemicals. Everybody's got on old can of paint sitting around. Thanks for sharing.
@@WorkshopCompanion thanks! So far I've just been brushing molten candles on and it's certainly performed better than nothing. Will try out your method next!
You, sir, not only do a wonderful job of explaining how to accomplish this task, but the way in which you explain it is a pleasure to watch. You have a great "stage" presence, and I look forward to watching more of your videos.
Nick - Really is a delight hearing what you have to say - I always teach my children -"It is not about what you know, it is about who you know " Listening to your tipps in this and in other videos has really spoken to me. Thank you
Remember the the wood shrinks as it dries and the tension may decrease over time. I try to make the wires tight enough that they remain snug, but it pays to check every month or so.
I spent some time in the mountains of North Carolina and a friend had an actual band saw mill. We would get entire trees and pick them up with a flatbed truck and saw them, green, into 1 1/2” very long and wide slabs and stack them outside of his shop in the yard. My friend made sculptural furniture out of this wood and i turned stool seats on a lathe and made stools from them. The wood was beautiful. my time in the mountains was too short, but these were good days. Rebuilding very old woodworking machinery bought for cheap, firing up the wood stove and generally just making all kinds of cool stuff to sell in the local craft stores in the mountains. The boards you can make from this beat anything you buy in the lumber store. Good video.
Thanks for sharing. I had a similar experience; set up my first woodworking business in a cabin in the Appalachian foothills of southeastern Ohio and made instruments from the wood I found or felled. Lean times, but good ones.
I've had this video on my watchlist for a while now. I am so happy I finally got around to watching it. The guy is fun to watch and gives clear instructions. Now I am off to watch the update.
By far, among the best woodworking videos I’ve seen, and I’ve seen A WHOLE LOT! I wish I came by your videos sooner, but sure am thankful I did come to find it. God bless you my friend, a true woodworker you are!
As a woman I was only taught woodshop at school for half a year, and that most certainly was not enough to get anything I learned to stick, nor teach enough to begin with. However I ended up working in construction and have had several different "manly" jobs. Everybody around me had been taught at least the basics at some point or pretended to know what they were doing, and no one ever bothered to explain anything further than maybe showing how a machine turned on and off and how not to cut my fingers off (ended up nailing myself to a house frame, through my finger, with a nailgun, though). I have found youtube a brilliant source to finally understand how and why to do things the proper way, and judging by this video I just stumbled upon, your videos might finally open up some things I've been pondering on. I found this video and your explanation in the comments extremely helpful and informative. Thank you so much!
Thank you for those kind words. We are slowly transferring all the information in my "Workshop Companion" series to video. The series was aimed at craftsmen and craftwomen like you who wanted to expand their understanding of woodworking and wood as an engineering material.
Beginning woodworker here. What a great tip this was. I was contemplating if I could justify a bandsaw investment for doing veneers , but what a great usage of a bandsaw this is. Now I get more use of my chainsaw as well.
You can definitely cut veneers on a bandsaw...recommended that you use a larger one, 10" or even better 14". Very important to watch some bandsaw setup videos so that you get blade position, tension, and guide bearing placement right. Also key to get a designated re-saw blade if you are going for thin and flat;)
Good morning, I am new to your site, however I'm retired and have been a tinkers for years. You are 100% correct about being happy with your own sawn wood. I was getting bored and found wood supplies so expensive here in Ct so having a property full of hard and soft woods, decided to build a sawmill 6 years ago. I sawed and stacked, air dried for 2 years and at the end, used that wood to rebuild my complete pine kitchen cabinets system. (is you like pine). I have learned many things along the way, 1/4 cut can be much harder. Cutting and curing your own lumber sure is a money saver when one is retired. Regards.
I thought I knew what there was to know about resawing from logs. I still learned something new. Full of info and easy to digest. You are a wonderful teacher sir! Subscribed!!!
At 8am after working all night I wasn't particularly looking for a wood working video but here I am. Thoroughly enjoyed the video since I've been considering picking up a hobby.
Great video! I was given some cherry wood and was wondering how to mill it. And thank you so much for mentioning both metric and imperial measurements. Your video can be enjoyed world-wide now
I am so glad I found this channel Reminds me of the carpentry masters I was apprenticed to in 1970. Boy I miss those Greatest generation Men and Women.
Subscribed for the metric and imperial measurements and no-fluff instructions. great Vid. I'm now off to look at your other content. Thanks from Australia.
This was the best video describing this process. I have stumbled through cutting maple veneer and boards from a tree cut down in my yard. I am going to try this.
If I had only watched your video a month ago. I had a very beautiful log that has cracked because I didn't knew the painting the edges trick. You are a very charismatic man, I love your videos!
I recently got a job at a wood/Lumber shop. Basically, we make custom orders and parts but we also sell exotics and domestics. even slabs. But there's been a shop there for 50 years. and I am forever grateful that the old guys kept their scraps. I find some pretty wild stuff in those dusty corners. One was some old apple tree logs. Not properly dried so they're pretty cracked but I think I can save a good chunk using this method!
Very nice for small boards. Securing down your boards to the stickers is something a lot of people forget to do. I’ve done lumber with an Alaskan chainsaw set up. But that’s for big boards. Thank you for showing
You have a knack for covering topics that I am capable of approaching in my garage shop and are actually worth trying. Also very motivating to see it done on the tool I own already.
It may not be exactly the same tool. That particular band saw is driven by a two horsepower motor. When mounted on the Mark V or -- worse -- mounted on an SPT stand with a 1/2-HP motor, the SS band saw is disappointing as a resawing tool. Add some power and its capabilities expand considerably.
@@WorkshopCompanion I inherited a shopsmith along with a lot of goodies in the last year, and the bandsaw is my next goal to get functioning. I believe it's on the SPT stand, but what should I look for to identify the power it's running at? Any tips for the logs I picked up when my neighbor took his tree down last week?
@@timne0 I went to school in the 70's. I know everything is mainly sold in metric bit I always use both. Whatever is easier at the time. Some projects I use both. If the measurement falls on 1" or whatever I use inches
@@paulbateman5769 you're free to use what you like, but it is incorrect to say "we have always used both" because it is no longer primarily taught other than as an afterthought. I could not tell you anything about using inches because they literally make no sense to me. I work in a design consultancy for mega projects and there is no imperial used at all, in the same way I could not tell you anything about 'F, or lbs and oz. My son is still taught conversion, but it's a useless system of measurements unless you're American. If I ask my wood merchant for 2*4 he knows what I mean, but he sells me 2.4m of wood or a division of it. Not 8ft.
@@timne0 I design steering systems for yachts and sail boats. Everything is in mm - everything but the length of the boat which is in ft. Only problem when American customers come around and measure their boats in meter and I have to convert that since boat length are in ft?
Like fine wine, fine wood ages with time, patience, and hospitable conditions. Thank you for another great video....I'm still trying to master that hammer twirl...
Lead Angle! So that’s what you call the way the bandsaw blade twists! Now I know how to deal with that on my bandsaw, thanks. Will be watching you for a whole year to make sure I don’t miss you using this new lumber. So many good tips in one video and I have watched a lot of videos in my time!
I love how he explains lenght in inches and cm, I'm from europe and it's really appreciated ! Thanks a lot for the great quality content you give us, sir !
It's been almost exactly a year now to the day and waiting in anticipation for that video you promised. Can't wait to see what you will be making with that wood. Thanks for all the great content and love your video's.
I appreciate the sentiment, and thank you for your kind words. But it's going to be very difficult to produce the follow-up video on time due to unforseen developments. We just sold our shop building and will be erecting a new one. We may be without a functioning shop/video studio for several months in the fall and early winter.
@@WorkshopCompanion It will just make the follow up video all the sweeter when you get to it! Likely those boards will be all the better seasoned too. Looking forward to the video when ever you manage to get around to it and hope to see videos of the new shop set up as well! I particularly enjoy the attention to detail in your videos and would be fascinated to see how you set up your shop if you decided to make even a short clip about it.
Dude I thought I knew something about lumber. You sir are the Master. Thank you for all the knowledge you have given me (in just a few videos). I look forward to applying the techniques and wisdom you have shared.
It's really great to hear the metric measurements in there alongside your imperial ones - thanks! Looking forward to the project using the lumber in 3 months' time ☺️
Most welcome. But there might be an interruption of our schedule -- we just sold our shop! The project I had planned for this wood may have to wait until our new shop is built.
I've been wrestling with this very problem the past few weeks. I settled on a chainsaw to do the initial trimming, then a jointer to square the wood up, then the bandsaw, then the table saw. My issue has been that I'm limited by the height of my table saw blade. This is fine for my purposes, but I see the advantages to doing it your way. I also produce a lot more waste than you do. Thanks for the lesson!
@@WorkshopCompanion I agree (almost) completely, except if one has a plane, one should also have an axe. Even a bit of rough hewing would have reduced the time spent planing considerably, then of course, some like shavings better than chips. Personally, I'm not too fond of sharpening - no more than need be anyway, so getting rid of the bulk with a lesser complicated tool to sharpen is also an advantage. Could be a slick or chisel also. Of course one would need those tools in the arsenal...
Nice trick on clamping the stack. A reminder to everyone to apply clamping pressure over your stickers and keep your stickers centered over each other or you will encourage distortion of the wood.
Great points, but you can't apply pressure directly over the sticker stack with this method. If you make the thick top/bottom stickers longer than the thinner interior stickers, the top/bottom stickers will bow when you tighten the wires. It's easier to arrange them side by side, and this works well enough.
I just wanted to say thank you, your so great at explaining things without a lot of waffling in-between and you don't talk down to your viewers , I love watching you and your added tips are amazing, thank you for taking the time to share your hard earned knowledge with so many people.
It's one of those extremely important things they forget to mention in the owner's manuals. So don't feel bad -- I had owned and operated band saws for years before I discovered it.
Home Depot makes the boards with bent trees. They mill it down following the natural bend. So that when it gets to you there is a bend...and a cup ...and a warp.
I have woodworked for a couple of years, and these are such practical videos! Im happy to learn more from someone so experienced than me since no one i know likes woodworking. Thanks for these videos!😊
I've only found your channel today and I have to day it is one of my favourite USA based channels, not only because your content is top quality but also because you tell us Europeans the Metric conversion! Thank you so much!
You're very welcome. We are well aware of our responsibility to our global friends, even if most Americans seem to have convinced themselves that the metric system is a deep state/Trilateral conspiracy to force us all to buy new tape measures outfitted with microchips so the CIA can see our every measurement.
Hi! Love the channel (glad YT showed it to me). I do have a question, though: I do not have a bandsaw (yet), so this might explain the question. But if the saw blade has a lead, what is the fence good for? or does it depend on the saw blade? Thanks and cheers from Switzerland 🇨🇭
Good question. The fence is useful ONLY if you know how to adjust it for the blade lead. And you can also adjust the blade lead by touching a sharpening stone to the aggressive side of the blade for a few seconds as it runs. I don't like to do this because it's difficult to get it just right and it partially dulls the blade.
@@WorkshopCompanion Thank you for the answer. Until now I have only seen videos showing how to get the fence parallel to the blade (sometimes with jigs) and not parallel to its lead. I will keep this in mind when I get my own bandsaw…
Thanos for sharing your experience but the way you roll up the Hammer , deserves respect. That shows How long you've been around in the woodworking shop. Regards from Brazil. 👍
Excuse my wording but seeing a gray haired man mill about in his workshop, doing something he truly seems to enjoy, accompanied by his dog and his trusty tools is just so beautiful. I am a highschool student with depression and it’s really impacted my grades, but I LOVE working with wood and steel, here’s hoping I get to work like this 😋
I was exactly where you are at the end of my college career. I grew up in an academic family where it was expected that I would -- at the very least -- get my masters degree. I was slogging my way through a Masters program at OU when I made a few friends at Stewart-MacDonald (they were in the area) and began making traditional American musical instruments. A year or so later, I had a full-time business, much to the disappointment of my parents -- who later on in my career couldn't stop bragging about all the books I had written. Do what you love. No one puts how much money they made on their tombstone. But I got to warn you -- being a top-notch Maker requires some top-notch math and reading skills. Get serious about the math, especially trigonometry, and read until it's as easy as breathing. Not all the information you need is on TH-cam.
Love it! I made a Moravian workbench all with hand tools. Now I'm trying to add efficiency with power tools, but because of my experience, I'm always reaching for hand tools first. This was a big help. I feel like we should hang out... You've even got the right dog.
Yeah, I took a lot of flack in this comments section for hand-planing the flat on the log. Truth is (1) I wanted to show a way to do this if you didn't own a chain saw and (2) I love planing. Not as much as I love the dogs, but close.
This is a great video! I lost a peach tree in my back yard due to disease. The straightest part of the trunk is only 30” long, but about 8-9” in diameter. I debarked the log and STARTED the hand planing process today, but have a good bit further to go. Looking forward to seeing what I can make from this wood. Again, what a great video!
I wish I was half as good at making an interesting video as this guy is. I was totally engaged the whole time. Also, can I just say: Such great taste in decor on that shelf in his background.
I don't own big tools...yet! However, I collect knowledge for future reference, for myself and others, and I know a young furniture maker who might be Very Happy to know about this! Thank you!
Can I say that I just love this guy. I swear, I'm 50 years old and *I STILL* want him to be my kindly, wise uncle teaching me how to use a router without losing bits of my epidermis.
Hey Nick I really enjoy your videos. You always explain things so simple. Many years ago I read a book called the bandsaw book and he also explained the problem of blade drift and how to compensate for it. And for 20 years that is what I did. And then about a month ago I watched a man sit up a bandsaw on TH-cam and he said that blade drift was a myth. So I followed his institutions on how to set up my saw and I found that it is a myth. I couldn't believe how true my saw is cutting. I can't remember the man's name but he made a believer out of me. I've never been able to use my miter gauge with my saw until now. But I did wander why it came with one. And now I know. Anyway your channel is awesome. Keep up the good work.
The gentleman's name is Michael Fortune -- a highly accomplished Canadian craftsman -- and his method is very effective. I don't believe that blade drift is a myth; unless the blade is precision ground, it will very likely cut more aggressively on one side than the other. But Fortune's method of changing the blade tracking solves the drift problem just as well as what I show, and I'm glad you mentioned his approach. Folks with high-end band saws that have adjustable upper wheel tracking will want to check him out. Problem is, not all band saws have this tracking adjustment. I could not use his method on my Shopsmith band saw -- it has automatic tracking and I'd actually have to grind down something or machine it anew to change to position of the blade on the wheel. The fence angle solution works for everyone.
@@WorkshopCompanion yes the fence angle thing worked for me for many years. Thanks for the reply I know you must be really busy. I'm a cabinet maker and stay. Busy all the time even though I'm working with wood I don't have enough time for woodworking
As a European immigrant, freshly arrived in the USA, I greatly appreciate you translating every measurement from Freedom Units to Sensible Units. Also, you're a great teacher with nice calm demeanor, clear use of words, and exquisitely clear instructions. Bravo, sir!
Tu forma de explicar es increíble y 100% didáctica. Gracias por añadir el sentido del humor mientras lo haces. Gracias por compartir tu conocimiento. Fue una gran suerte encontrar tu canal Nick. Saludos de México 🇲🇽
You Sir, are a genius.. I've been looking for a very simple way and your "Jig" helps solve the issue of the thick logs that I have to cut.. Thank you so much..
I'm surprised you don't have millions of subscribers. It's like being back in shop class in high school with the cool woodshop teacher. I really have learned from you!
Your guidance is highly professional and the way you explain the ideas is also so easy to catch. I have never got the idea of exact time period for the drying of woods until now but as per your advice it sounds good.
This looks like a nice doable approach! For the first step of getting one side flat, I think this would be a good place to use an electric hand plane for rough waste removal. A European scrub plane is also fantastic for this work, the camber is only about 2-3 inches (5-7cm), so you can cut deep gouges into the wood.
WELL, as they say on Perkins Builders Brothers, "That's one way to do it." I've been a Cribbage player from 'day 1.' One of my hobbies is taking (larger, 3" diameter or there abouts) tree limbs I've pruned off my oak and pine trees and used them to make live edge cribbage boards. I don't have a bandsaw so I'm stuck with 'alternate plan B' for cutting the boards, but the rest of the techniques work great. "ROCK ON, Nick!"
I just recently stumbled upon your videos and when you said a year, i of course groaned and then i looked at the time stamp of 2 yrs ago and now im off to watch that video.
There is a part 2 to this video, but it’s not likely to ever be made. It would show me patiently staring at this stack of wood for a year - even Travis’s considerable skill with time-lapse photography couldn’t make that interesting. Nonetheless, there is some important information to gleaned, beginning with the reason behind my patience. This is not to let the wood dry, as is sometimes presumed, but to let it stabilize.
Wood is in constant motion, owing to its unique relationship with water. Wood is hygroscopic, it is constantly absorbing and releasing water as the conditions of its environment change. It swells when it takes on water, and shrinks when releasing it.
But it doesn’t move equally in all directions. On the average, a board moves up to 8% of its dimension tangent to the annual rings, 4% radial to those rings, and 0.1% along their axis, parallel to the wood grain. This uneven movement can cause the wood to warp, cup, and twist as it absorbs and releases moisture.
It is extremely prone to this distortion during the drying process. When a tree is first felled, it’s chock full of water. There are, in fact, two types of water in green (freshly cut) lumber - “free” water that fills the cells, and “bound” water that saturates the cellulose fibers that make up the cell walls.
As it dries, wood loses its free water first. This may take several months depending on the thickness of the boards you’ve cut, and the wood shrinks only a little during this stage. But as it begins to lose the bound water, it shrinks at a faster rate. Because the outsides of the board dry faster than the core, the uneven shrinking causes the boards to warp, twist, and cup - unless you do something to prevent it.
Fortunately, wood also “creeps” - that is, you can get the cellulose fibers to realign and change the shape of the board simply by applying constant pressure. This is why sawyers carefully stack freshly cut boards in evenly spaced layers to dry - the weight of the stack itself provides the pressure needed to convince the fibers to cooperate and keep the boards flat. Often they put additional weight on top of the stack where the boards aren’t under enough pressure to prevent distortion.
In small stacks there’s not enough weight to provide the necessary pressure. So I added the baling wire loops to generate that pressure. When the wires are tight enough to hold the boards without shifting, they will also keep the boards relatively flat.
While it's drying, store your wood in an unheated, un-airconditioned, un-dehumidified space. (All these things alter the relative humidity, and the whole purpose of this exercise is for the wood to reach equilibrium with the prevailing RH in your geographic location. Only then does the wood stabilize.) A shed, a carport, or a barn works well. You can also stack the wood outside, off the ground, and cover it with exterior plywood or roofing to ward off the rain. Leave the sides of the stack open to the wind so the air can circulate. Avoid tarps. Unless properly "tented" so it doesn't touch the wood, a tarp may trap moisture and encourage fungi to grow.
A few months down the road, there’s suddenly something happening! There’s some movement in this monotonous Part 2 video as I yawn, pick up my screwdriver, and check the wires. As the wood shrinks, the wires will slowly loosen and the pressure decreases. You may have to tighten a few wires to keep the pressure where it should be. The wires are aligned radially with the annual rings (where the movement is less), so you won’t have to do this often. But it is something to check on every month or so.
After drying a year per inch (25 mm) of thickness, the wood will have reached equilibrium with the relative humidity in its location. It’s not dry - it never dries completely. Because it is hygroscopic, wood retains about 1% moisture content for every 5% of relative humidity. If the relative humidity in the barn where you’ve stored it is 50%, the wood will have about 10% moisture content.
After some time has passed, you may want to test the moisture content. If you don't have a moisture meter, cut a block from a board at least 3 inches (8 centimeters) in from an end. Weigh it on a sensitive scale (wet weight), place the block in an oven for 2 hours at 200-250 degrees to dry it out, and weigh it a again (dry weight). Subtract the dry weight from the wet weight and divide the result by the wet weight. Multiply that result by 100 -- that will give you the moisture content in per cent (%). Wood normally stabilizes at 8% to 12% moisture content, depending on where you live.
Once you're sure the wood is no longer continually losing water, it’s ready to be worked. Or almost. There’s another step to this drying process. The relative humidity in your barn is not quite the same as in your shop. So bring the stack into the shop and let it rest for two weeks letting the moisture content in the wood arrive at equilibrium with the relative humidity in the shop. (Stage directions: Nick stops staring at the stack in the barn and brings it into his shop. Curtain falls for 14 days to denote the passing of two weeks.)
This is called “shop drying,” and it’s a critical part of the process. Fortunately, it’s also the last. Time to snip those wires and make something. See you in a year - and two weeks.
Wow, I can't thank you enough for all the work you put towards this topic. It is great information and I appreciate it beyond words. Thank You.
@@islandcharlie7132 You're most welcome.
💚
What a huge lot of seriously useful information, all so clearly presented. Thank you for a great video and even more brilliant info in your comments and answers.
@@MatDart You're most welcome.
LOL. you make me smile. A breath of fresh air in these turbulent times.
this is the reason I love the internet, just that man, sharing knowledge.
Wow. A man that actually knows something worth knowing. Awesome video. Thank you for sharing, sir. Good to know there are real men like you still out there. Salute.
This gentleman can be a really good story teller with his voice. Honestly I don't need to know any of this stuff but the video is so authentic I watched till the end anyways.
Watch the very beginning with the sound off. The hair looks like he could lose his shit fast. Super cool guy though
Well, that explains Einstein's well known violent outbursts.
I use cheap woodglue at the end of the board. put it on with a paint brush then i use news paper, the news paper has woodfiber in them and then i use more woodglue over the paper. This way the wood will never crack. I learnd this metod of my grandfather. We all have our metods for the endgrain. As allways great video
Actually, I use paraffin wax dissolved in Xylol because it penetrates deep into the end grains. As you point out, there are a hundred ways to seal the ends. But I wanted to make this do-able for folks without having to invest in chemicals. Everybody's got on old can of paint sitting around. Thanks for sharing.
@@WorkshopCompanion what ratio of wax to xylol do you use?
@@johannesmajamaki2626 About 1 to 1.
@@WorkshopCompanion thanks! So far I've just been brushing molten candles on and it's certainly performed better than nothing. Will try out your method next!
Band saws scare me
You, sir, not only do a wonderful job of explaining how to accomplish this task, but the way in which you explain it is a pleasure to watch.
You have a great "stage" presence, and I look forward to watching more of your videos.
Thanks for the kind words.
I'm 50 years old and learned something new today , Thank You very much !
Most welcome.
I love your videos it's like sitting down to a lesson in school from your favorite teacher. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for the kind words.
Yep, but this guy is WAY more interesting than my shop teacher from middle school was.
he`s old school, knows what the shell he`s talking about. just by watching this vid, his explanation and the way he handles the hammer, i subscribed..
Nick - Really is a delight hearing what you have to say - I always teach my children -"It is not about what you know, it is about who you know " Listening to your tipps in this and in other videos has really spoken to me. Thank you
Thanks for the kind words.
I like your wire binding trick at the end. Keeps it under tension and still moveable.
Remember the the wood shrinks as it dries and the tension may decrease over time. I try to make the wires tight enough that they remain snug, but it pays to check every month or so.
I spent some time in the mountains of North Carolina and a friend had an actual band saw mill. We would get entire trees and pick them up with a flatbed truck and saw them, green, into 1 1/2” very long and wide slabs and stack them outside of his shop in the yard. My friend made sculptural furniture out of this wood and i turned stool seats on a lathe and made stools from them. The wood was beautiful. my time in the mountains was too short, but these were good days. Rebuilding very old woodworking machinery bought for cheap, firing up the wood stove and generally just making all kinds of cool stuff to sell in the local craft stores in the mountains. The boards you can make from this beat anything you buy in the lumber store. Good video.
Thanks for sharing. I had a similar experience; set up my first woodworking business in a cabin in the Appalachian foothills of southeastern Ohio and made instruments from the wood I found or felled. Lean times, but good ones.
It gives me such great pleasure to finally find a new/old take on some of my all time favorite PBS shows! I can’t wait to dig into this show!! Thanks
Most welcome.
I've had this video on my watchlist for a while now. I am so happy I finally got around to watching it. The guy is fun to watch and gives clear instructions. Now I am off to watch the update.
By far, among the best woodworking videos I’ve seen, and I’ve seen A WHOLE LOT! I wish I came by your videos sooner, but sure am thankful I did come to find it. God bless you my friend, a true woodworker you are!
Thanks for you kind words.
As a woman I was only taught woodshop at school for half a year, and that most certainly was not enough to get anything I learned to stick, nor teach enough to begin with. However I ended up working in construction and have had several different "manly" jobs. Everybody around me had been taught at least the basics at some point or pretended to know what they were doing, and no one ever bothered to explain anything further than maybe showing how a machine turned on and off and how not to cut my fingers off (ended up nailing myself to a house frame, through my finger, with a nailgun, though). I have found youtube a brilliant source to finally understand how and why to do things the proper way, and judging by this video I just stumbled upon, your videos might finally open up some things I've been pondering on. I found this video and your explanation in the comments extremely helpful and informative. Thank you so much!
Thank you for those kind words. We are slowly transferring all the information in my "Workshop Companion" series to video. The series was aimed at craftsmen and craftwomen like you who wanted to expand their understanding of woodworking and wood as an engineering material.
Beginning woodworker here. What a great tip this was. I was contemplating if I could justify a bandsaw investment for doing veneers , but what a great usage of a bandsaw this is. Now I get more use of my chainsaw as well.
You can definitely cut veneers on a bandsaw...recommended that you use a larger one, 10" or even better 14". Very important to watch some bandsaw setup videos so that you get blade position, tension, and guide bearing placement right. Also key to get a designated re-saw blade if you are going for thin and flat;)
Good morning, I am new to your site, however I'm retired and have been a tinkers for years. You are 100% correct about being happy with your own sawn wood. I was getting bored and found wood supplies so expensive here in Ct so having a property full of hard and soft woods, decided to build a sawmill 6 years ago. I sawed and stacked, air dried for 2 years and at the end, used that wood to rebuild my complete pine kitchen cabinets system. (is you like pine). I have learned many things along the way, 1/4 cut can be much harder. Cutting and curing your own lumber sure is a money saver when one is retired. Regards.
Thanks for sharing.
I thought I knew what there was to know about resawing from logs. I still learned something new.
Full of info and easy to digest. You are a wonderful teacher sir! Subscribed!!!
Thanks -- and welcome!
At 8am after working all night I wasn't particularly looking for a wood working video but here I am. Thoroughly enjoyed the video since I've been considering picking up a hobby.
Hope we have helped in your search.
Great video! I was given some cherry wood and was wondering how to mill it. And thank you so much for mentioning both metric and imperial measurements. Your video can be enjoyed world-wide now
We well aware that we have a growing global audience. That's one of the reasons behind our wordless project videos.
Ik
I am so glad I found this channel Reminds me of the carpentry masters I was apprenticed to in 1970. Boy I miss those Greatest generation Men and Women.
I'm not quite that old. Greatest generation, once removed...;-)
@@WorkshopCompanion I said you remind me of them You would be 110 Lol
This was so interesting and informative! I really enjoyed the video and your presentation!
Thanks for the kind words.
Subscribed for the metric and imperial measurements and no-fluff instructions. great Vid. I'm now off to look at your other content. Thanks from Australia.
Most welcome from America.
This was the best video describing this process. I have stumbled through cutting maple veneer and boards from a tree cut down in my yard. I am going to try this.
Glad to have been of help.
If I had only watched your video a month ago. I had a very beautiful log that has cracked because I didn't knew the painting the edges trick. You are a very charismatic man, I love your videos!
Thank you for your kind words.
Thank you for showing us a way to make boards with tools that most of us have. I love your channel.
That is the aim. Thank you for saying so.
I recently got a job at a wood/Lumber shop. Basically, we make custom orders and parts but we also sell exotics and domestics. even slabs. But there's been a shop there for 50 years. and I am forever grateful that the old guys kept their scraps. I find some pretty wild stuff in those dusty corners. One was some old apple tree logs. Not properly dried so they're pretty cracked but I think I can save a good chunk using this method!
Very nice for small boards. Securing down your boards to the stickers is something a lot of people forget to do.
I’ve done lumber with an Alaskan chainsaw set up. But that’s for big boards.
Thank you for showing
i dont have any of these tools, i dont work with wood often, but i still couldnt stop watching this till the end :D
You have a knack for covering topics that I am capable of approaching in my garage shop and are actually worth trying. Also very motivating to see it done on the tool I own already.
It may not be exactly the same tool. That particular band saw is driven by a two horsepower motor. When mounted on the Mark V or -- worse -- mounted on an SPT stand with a 1/2-HP motor, the SS band saw is disappointing as a resawing tool. Add some power and its capabilities expand considerably.
@@WorkshopCompanion I inherited a shopsmith along with a lot of goodies in the last year, and the bandsaw is my next goal to get functioning. I believe it's on the SPT stand, but what should I look for to identify the power it's running at? Any tips for the logs I picked up when my neighbor took his tree down last week?
@@ChrisAndros There should be a plate on the motor that reveals its horsepower, along with other secrets.
@@WorkshopCompanion thank you! Awesome video!
@@ChrisAndros Thanks.
This is the best little educational hobby short I've ever seen. Interested people are interesting, and I love this.
You give dimensions in mm! Someone who understands the imperial/metric pain.
A 12 inch ruler is 30cm . As I am from the UK we have always used both.
@@paulbateman5769 as someone who grew up in the 80s in the UK, it's almost exclusively metric now.
@@timne0 I went to school in the 70's. I know everything is mainly sold in metric bit I always use both. Whatever is easier at the time. Some projects I use both. If the measurement falls on 1" or whatever I use inches
@@paulbateman5769 you're free to use what you like, but it is incorrect to say "we have always used both" because it is no longer primarily taught other than as an afterthought. I could not tell you anything about using inches because they literally make no sense to me. I work in a design consultancy for mega projects and there is no imperial used at all, in the same way I could not tell you anything about 'F, or lbs and oz. My son is still taught conversion, but it's a useless system of measurements unless you're American. If I ask my wood merchant for 2*4 he knows what I mean, but he sells me 2.4m of wood or a division of it. Not 8ft.
@@timne0 I design steering systems for yachts and sail boats. Everything is in mm - everything but the length of the boat which is in ft. Only problem when American customers come around and measure their boats in meter and I have to convert that since boat length are in ft?
Like fine wine, fine wood ages with time, patience, and hospitable conditions. Thank you for another great video....I'm still trying to master that hammer twirl...
Can there be anything more satisfying in life than building a piece of furniture from a tree you have cut down and milled yourself ?.
I wish most TH-cam instruction were as concise informative and entertaining as your video "Thank YOU"
Thank you for sharing you knowledge with a young man like me. Hopefully one day I can pass this down to another.
That is the idea. And it's a great one.
Lead Angle! So that’s what you call the way the bandsaw blade twists! Now I know how to deal with that on my bandsaw, thanks. Will be watching you for a whole year to make sure I don’t miss you using this new lumber. So many good tips in one video and I have watched a lot of videos in my time!
Yeah that caught my attention too. This was an excellent video. I had never heard of this channel until I saw this video
Thanks, both of you guys.
its timeeeeee ...... i have waited for that year and im back....
Yes ITS TIME!!
I agree, it is time. Unfortunately, we are in the middle of selling one shop and building another, and this will have to wait until we come to roost.
You, sir, have a really calming and fatherly voice. That alone makes me want to subscribe. Thank you for the very helpful videos and advise
Calming and fatherly? Not exactly what I was going for, but I'll take it. Thanks -- and welcome.
Awesome idea for saving a ton of money on wood. Great for small projects. Excellent tips as well when it comes to storage and drying.
Thanks for you kind words.
I love how he explains lenght in inches and cm, I'm from europe and it's really appreciated ! Thanks a lot for the great quality content you give us, sir !
Most welcome.
It's been almost exactly a year now to the day and waiting in anticipation for that video you promised. Can't wait to see what you will be making with that wood. Thanks for all the great content and love your video's.
I appreciate the sentiment, and thank you for your kind words. But it's going to be very difficult to produce the follow-up video on time due to unforseen developments. We just sold our shop building and will be erecting a new one. We may be without a functioning shop/video studio for several months in the fall and early winter.
@@WorkshopCompanion It will just make the follow up video all the sweeter when you get to it! Likely those boards will be all the better seasoned too. Looking forward to the video when ever you manage to get around to it and hope to see videos of the new shop set up as well! I particularly enjoy the attention to detail in your videos and would be fascinated to see how you set up your shop if you decided to make even a short clip about it.
How have I not know about this guy. I watched several videos trying to figure this out a few years ago. This is exactly what you need to know.
Dude I thought I knew something about lumber. You sir are the Master. Thank you for all the knowledge you have given me (in just a few videos). I look forward to applying the techniques and wisdom you have shared.
Most welcome!
It's really great to hear the metric measurements in there alongside your imperial ones - thanks!
Looking forward to the project using the lumber in 3 months' time ☺️
Most welcome. But there might be an interruption of our schedule -- we just sold our shop! The project I had planned for this wood may have to wait until our new shop is built.
I've got it marked on the calendar. I look forward to joining you in one year. Thank you, for sharing your knowledge, it's always appreciated!
Be there; I plan on taking a roll call. And you're very welcome.
if they are 2 inches high, we should wait 2 years.
@@patricksimons560 I cut the boards 1 inch thick.
Finding the lead angle! That tip alone solved so many of my bandsaw issues! Thank you for the great presentation
I've been wrestling with this very problem the past few weeks. I settled on a chainsaw to do the initial trimming, then a jointer to square the wood up, then the bandsaw, then the table saw. My issue has been that I'm limited by the height of my table saw blade. This is fine for my purposes, but I see the advantages to doing it your way. I also produce a lot more waste than you do. Thanks for the lesson!
I usually do the initial cuts with a chainsaw as well, but I try to make these vids relevant to folks who have collected a few less tools than I have.
@@WorkshopCompanion I agree (almost) completely, except if one has a plane, one should also have an axe. Even a bit of rough hewing would have reduced the time spent planing considerably, then of course, some like shavings better than chips. Personally, I'm not too fond of sharpening - no more than need be anyway, so getting rid of the bulk with a lesser complicated tool to sharpen is also an advantage. Could be a slick or chisel also. Of course one would need those tools in the arsenal...
I never in a million years would have thought of this. Thank you for making this video.
Most welcome.
Nice trick on clamping the stack. A reminder to everyone to apply clamping pressure over your stickers and keep your stickers centered over each other or you will encourage distortion of the wood.
Great points, but you can't apply pressure directly over the sticker stack with this method. If you make the thick top/bottom stickers longer than the thinner interior stickers, the top/bottom stickers will bow when you tighten the wires. It's easier to arrange them side by side, and this works well enough.
I just wanted to say thank you, your so great at explaining things without a lot of waffling in-between and you don't talk down to your viewers , I love watching you and your added tips are amazing, thank you for taking the time to share your hard earned knowledge with so many people.
Superb and industry leading hosting and education.
Wow! Thanks.
I had no idea about band saw lead. I always thought it was just me doing something wrong. You have blown my mind.
It's one of those extremely important things they forget to mention in the owner's manuals. So don't feel bad -- I had owned and operated band saws for years before I discovered it.
I love this channel
Me too. Thanks.
I think this guy is fantastic like one of the very rare teachers at school that actually TEACH you something well done sir from England
Thanks for your kind words.
So this is how Home Depot makes my boards
Home Depot makes the boards with bent trees. They mill it down following the natural bend. So that when it gets to you there is a bend...and a cup ...and a warp.
Oh my god... You saved me again. I had a major problem cutting straight lines. Even with the fence. I had no idea about a lead angle concept. Thanks!
Most welcome.
i dont even woodwork , why did i've watch that ? ...
You never know what you may end up doing one day...
It's interesting learning things, even if it's not one of your hobbies
And he is the grandfather we all which we had lol
You’re one encouraging push away from sing a d
well if you can make everything on your own, you dont have to buy anything anymore.
I have woodworked for a couple of years, and these are such practical videos! Im happy to learn more from someone so experienced than me since no one i know likes woodworking. Thanks for these videos!😊
Most welcome.
Ого, отличный способ не держать гнёт на досках при сушке! Я доски заготавливаю с помощью бензопилы.
Великолепно! Спасибо за науку!
Пожалуйста.
We just had a hurricane and I’ve been seeing some nice pieces around town and now I’m bout to start woodworking thanks so much!
Good luck! Hurricane and tornado craftsmanship is getting to be a a whole new woodworking movement.
now im gonna have to get a small bandsaw cause ive been looking at doing this with a chainsaw.
Band saw wastes a lot like wood. And you can do the sawyering inside.
I've only found your channel today and I have to day it is one of my favourite USA based channels, not only because your content is top quality but also because you tell us Europeans the Metric conversion! Thank you so much!
You're very welcome. We are well aware of our responsibility to our global friends, even if most Americans seem to have convinced themselves that the metric system is a deep state/Trilateral conspiracy to force us all to buy new tape measures outfitted with microchips so the CIA can see our every measurement.
Hi! Love the channel (glad YT showed it to me).
I do have a question, though: I do not have a bandsaw (yet), so this might explain the question. But if the saw blade has a lead, what is the fence good for? or does it depend on the saw blade?
Thanks and cheers from Switzerland 🇨🇭
Good question. The fence is useful ONLY if you know how to adjust it for the blade lead. And you can also adjust the blade lead by touching a sharpening stone to the aggressive side of the blade for a few seconds as it runs. I don't like to do this because it's difficult to get it just right and it partially dulls the blade.
@@WorkshopCompanion Thank you for the answer. Until now I have only seen videos showing how to get the fence parallel to the blade (sometimes with jigs) and not parallel to its lead. I will keep this in mind when I get my own bandsaw…
Thanos for sharing your experience but the way you roll up the Hammer , deserves respect. That shows How long you've been around in the woodworking shop. Regards from Brazil. 👍
Regards from the US -- and thanks for the kind words.
Excuse my wording but seeing a gray haired man mill about in his workshop, doing something he truly seems to enjoy, accompanied by his dog and his trusty tools is just so beautiful. I am a highschool student with depression and it’s really impacted my grades, but I LOVE working with wood and steel, here’s hoping I get to work like this 😋
I was exactly where you are at the end of my college career. I grew up in an academic family where it was expected that I would -- at the very least -- get my masters degree. I was slogging my way through a Masters program at OU when I made a few friends at Stewart-MacDonald (they were in the area) and began making traditional American musical instruments. A year or so later, I had a full-time business, much to the disappointment of my parents -- who later on in my career couldn't stop bragging about all the books I had written. Do what you love. No one puts how much money they made on their tombstone. But I got to warn you -- being a top-notch Maker requires some top-notch math and reading skills. Get serious about the math, especially trigonometry, and read until it's as easy as breathing. Not all the information you need is on TH-cam.
@@WorkshopCompanion Haha well I’m glad your parents eventually came around!! And thanks for the reply!!! I’m gonna keep trying at it 😋
Love it! I made a Moravian workbench all with hand tools. Now I'm trying to add efficiency with power tools, but because of my experience, I'm always reaching for hand tools first. This was a big help. I feel like we should hang out... You've even got the right dog.
Yeah, I took a lot of flack in this comments section for hand-planing the flat on the log. Truth is (1) I wanted to show a way to do this if you didn't own a chain saw and (2) I love planing. Not as much as I love the dogs, but close.
This is a great video! I lost a peach tree in my back yard due to disease. The straightest part of the trunk is only 30” long, but about 8-9” in diameter. I debarked the log and STARTED the hand planing process today, but have a good bit further to go. Looking forward to seeing what I can make from this wood. Again, what a great video!
Thanks, and good luck!
"I happen to like hand planing" put a smile on my face :) Carry on with the good work, Sir!
Thanks for saying. A really, hand planing green wood proceeds very quickly. Takes me more time to rip the flat with my chain saw.
I wish I was half as good at making an interesting video as this guy is. I was totally engaged the whole time. Also, can I just say: Such great taste in decor on that shelf in his background.
Thanks for the kind words.
I don't own big tools...yet! However, I collect knowledge for future reference, for myself and others, and I know a young furniture maker who might be Very Happy to know about this! Thank you!
You're most welcome.
Can I say that I just love this guy. I swear, I'm 50 years old and *I STILL* want him to be my kindly, wise uncle teaching me how to use a router without losing bits of my epidermis.
Thanks for the kind words. And I do consider adoption from time to time, as long as you house-trained, fixed, and have all your shots...;-)
Beginner woodworker (@ 67) ,that was awesome. Thanks
Most welcome.
love the way you explain and present. much better than all those fast guys. keep it up!
Thanks.
My dad watched the new yankee workshop. I have this channel. Im so glad I found it.
you are highly intelligent and remarkable gentleman
Takes one to know one.
I cut and stickered my first log yesterday thanks to your video! Now I just have to be patient for it to dry out.
Good luck!
The finer technical tips you share make these videos a treasure !
Kind of you to say.
This video is very helpful to me. I will be watching this many times so that I may re-saw my boards on my bandsaw. Thank you.
Thanks again, Nick! I shall look at the prunings from my apple, fig and pear trees a lot more judiciously from now on.
Hey Nick I really enjoy your videos. You always explain things so simple. Many years ago I read a book called the bandsaw book and he also explained the problem of blade drift and how to compensate for it. And for 20 years that is what I did. And then about a month ago I watched a man sit up a bandsaw on TH-cam and he said that blade drift was a myth. So I followed his institutions on how to set up my saw and I found that it is a myth. I couldn't believe how true my saw is cutting. I can't remember the man's name but he made a believer out of me. I've never been able to use my miter gauge with my saw until now. But I did wander why it came with one. And now I know. Anyway your channel is awesome. Keep up the good work.
The gentleman's name is Michael Fortune -- a highly accomplished Canadian craftsman -- and his method is very effective. I don't believe that blade drift is a myth; unless the blade is precision ground, it will very likely cut more aggressively on one side than the other. But Fortune's method of changing the blade tracking solves the drift problem just as well as what I show, and I'm glad you mentioned his approach. Folks with high-end band saws that have adjustable upper wheel tracking will want to check him out. Problem is, not all band saws have this tracking adjustment. I could not use his method on my Shopsmith band saw -- it has automatic tracking and I'd actually have to grind down something or machine it anew to change to position of the blade on the wheel. The fence angle solution works for everyone.
@@WorkshopCompanion yes the fence angle thing worked for me for many years. Thanks for the reply I know you must be really busy. I'm a cabinet maker and stay. Busy all the time even though I'm working with wood I don't have enough time for woodworking
Thank you a million times wood working Einstein. ❤
I am a joiner here in the uk 🇬🇧 and late in life but hay you always learn something everyday thanks for your video stay safe 👍👏👏
Most welcome.
My dad and i have been considering milling our own flooring. This will definitely be useful information
Good luck.
As a European immigrant, freshly arrived in the USA, I greatly appreciate you translating every measurement from Freedom Units to Sensible Units. Also, you're a great teacher with nice calm demeanor, clear use of words, and exquisitely clear instructions. Bravo, sir!
Freedom units, Sensible units. Never heard those terms, but they fit right up there with Indeterminate units like a smidge or a bit. Thank you, sir.
@@WorkshopCompanion Americans sometimes jokingly call imperial measurements as Freedom Units. Their counterpart is metric.
You are awesome! Your videos are so helpful. Props for using metric and imperial measurements in your videos.
Nice, miniaturized version of the real deal but following the same principles. Well done
Thanks.
Tu forma de explicar es increíble y 100% didáctica. Gracias por añadir el sentido del humor mientras lo haces. Gracias por compartir tu conocimiento. Fue una gran suerte encontrar tu canal Nick. Saludos de México 🇲🇽
Saludos desde Estados Unidos y gracias por sus amables palabras.
This is fast becomming my favorite Channel.
Thanks much.
You Sir, are a genius.. I've been looking for a very simple way and your "Jig" helps solve the issue of the thick logs that I have to cut.. Thank you so much..
Most welcome.
Coming up on year! Just found your channel as I am researching bandsaws and now I am tuning in to see what you make with that lumber!
You may have plenty of time to research. We sold our hangar this summer and are building in new shop. This may have to wait until we are relocated.
Wow, I love this man and his teaching ability
I'm surprised you don't have millions of subscribers. It's like being back in shop class in high school with the cool woodshop teacher. I really have learned from you!
Thanks for the kind words. We'll work on that subscriber issue...
Wow your videos are great , I could listen to you all day. very well explained and thx for including metric for us South Africans
Most welcome.
Your guidance is highly professional and the way you explain the ideas is also so easy to catch. I have never got the idea of exact time period for the drying of woods until now but as per your advice it sounds good.
Thanks.
This looks like a nice doable approach! For the first step of getting one side flat, I think this would be a good place to use an electric hand plane for rough waste removal. A European scrub plane is also fantastic for this work, the camber is only about 2-3 inches (5-7cm), so you can cut deep gouges into the wood.
Wonderful video.. thank you much for the metric and inches conversions! I am American but live in a metric country, and this saves me the headache !
You're welcome a bushel and a peck -- that's about 44 liters.
WELL, as they say on Perkins Builders Brothers, "That's one way to do it." I've been a Cribbage player from 'day 1.' One of my hobbies is taking (larger, 3" diameter or there abouts) tree limbs I've pruned off my oak and pine trees and used them to make live edge cribbage boards. I don't have a bandsaw so I'm stuck with 'alternate plan B' for cutting the boards, but the rest of the techniques work great. "ROCK ON, Nick!"
I just recently stumbled upon your videos and when you said a year, i of course groaned and then i looked at the time stamp of 2 yrs ago and now im off to watch that video.
I came to the comments hoping for a link! Is it in the description or something?